Thank you for the video. I know nothing about photography but I found this camera today at a garage sale for $15 and I'm very excited to learn. Also, you sound kind of like Lemme from Motorhead!
At last! A truly exceptional review of the remarkable OM-2s/OM-2 spot/program! You, sir, are praised! A minor point: Olympus recommended (after a brief stint) the use of two silver oxide batteries ONLY. Lithium and alkaline substitutes are not reliable. To adhere to Mr. Maitani's design requirements, his cameras had to be instantly useable without any action taken by the user -- "press the button and shoot". As a result, certain portions of these cameras circuitry were always "on", even when the camera was ostensibly "off". As a result, there is always a minute amount of current drain. (You can check this with a ammeter across the positive batteries in the chamber and the body -- after 90 seconds or so of uninterrupted power, the battery drain will drop, but never down to 0a.) Alkaline, and especially lithium, batteries cannot endure this drain, however minor it may be. Even so, you can expect silver oxides to die in six to twelve months, even with the camera sitting on a shelf. Of course, to extend battery life, you can remove them -- but you should be doing that anyway! Some of these were known to develop loose shoes and strap lugs, as well as erratic ASA/ISO inputs. After the knob is left undisturbed for a day or so, watch the meter display as you move the ASA -- if it jumps up and down for a moment, you've got "erratic meter disease"! It's an easy fix for a knowledgeable tech (shoe and lugs, too), but you can get by with periodically turning the knob back and forth once or twice before shooting. An interesting difference between the two generations of bodies (the OM-1/1n/2/2n and the later OM-2s/4/3/4T, etc.) is that the earlier models were built from the body castings out, layer by layer, while the later models were much more "modular" -- shutter assemblies made in one factory, wind assembly in another, etc, then "inserted" into a body casting. Made repairs a bit more difficult, but that's technology!
I know im asking randomly but does any of you know of a trick to log back into an instagram account?? I was dumb lost my account password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me
@Ruben Brixton thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and im trying it out now. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
ive got an OM2spot and for a while used it to take stage and theatre photos. I changed the viewing screen for one made by Beattie which gives far better clarity and luminousity than the original. Easy to change screens, catch is just under the pentaprism...
Hi just bought one of these the batteries were flat so changed them I have tried to press the shutter release button but nothing happens. Apparently this can happen when the batteries were flat and it locks. Apparently there is a procedure to unlock this does anyone have any ideas how this can be done in layman’s terms? Thanks
The procedure you are talking about only applies to the Olympus OM2 and NOT to the OM2 spot program. Are you using the correct batteries? LR44 or SR44 are the correct ones. Make sure you have inserted them the right way up with the positive side in contact with the screw in cap. If this fails then it's possible that the shutter has failed on the camera. Try setting the shutter to the mechanical 1/60 of a second marked in red on the shutter speed ring. (Don't forget to press the small button marked "lock" in order to move the shutter to the red 1/60 of a second position) . If the shutter doesn't fire on the mechanical setting then I am afraid you have a failed shutter which will have to be sent away for repair.
@@bigwill4423 Thankyou I have tried that with and without the batteries and the shutter release still doesn’t function. I have only bought it today and it’s hardly been used but.I wound the winder back and tried to use shutter release with flat batteries and it’s locked. Is it a big job to release it?
@@davidgniadek924 It's a job which I certainly wouldn't attempt. I recommend you send it to www.lutoncameras.co.uk/ who are OM camera repair specialists and will leave your camera like new. If you've just bought this camera you could of course get your money back under your consumer rights as it is defective and unfit for purpose. Sorry to hear you got a duff one but if you get it repaired at Luton camera you will have a camera which will be a joy to use for many years to come.
@@bigwill4423 Thankyou I bought it from a private seller and externally the camera is absolute mint. I wonder how much they will charge for repairing and servicing it. I want something that will last me years I’m based in the north east so nowhere near to me that will repair it. I might try and return it to the couple who sold me it it was there fathers and left in cupboard for years hence the good condition difficult!?
@@davidgniadek924 It probably wouldn't be a cheap repair, probably in the region of the price you paid for the camera. That said, Luton cameras do a superb job. I've personally had them refurbish an om1n and a 4T and they did a superb job, fixing a failed shutter on the 4T as well as replacing the light seals, the om1n had the light seals replaced, shutter accuracy checked and converted to use SR44 batteries. Give them an email to get a quote for the work if you decide to go down the repair route or you could just get your money back from the seller. If the camera is in otherwise good condition I'd personally get a quote for it's repair and then decide.
It is clear that he said B "bulb" could be used AS backup for using the camera when the battery was flat but still being able to shoot. Not that B is backup and stands for the first letter in the word Backup as you seem to have mistakenly assumed. The context of the comment, manual backup or fallback when the battery is flat, makes this obvious, basic language comprehension. Your accent is just fine Jeremy and perfectly understandable.
Awesome video Big Will! I love my OM-2sp, and running a second roll of film thru now, to make up for some of my mistakes on the last one. This is my original camera from those times past. www.rsdunphyphotography.com/om2s
Thanks for sharing this.I’ve just received this camera and look forward to using it.Happy Christmas to you.
Thank you for the video. I know nothing about photography but I found this camera today at a garage sale for $15 and I'm very excited to learn. Also, you sound kind of like Lemme from Motorhead!
Lemmie from Motorhead! Lol I gotta do something about my laryngitis! Lol :-)
At last! A truly exceptional review of the remarkable OM-2s/OM-2 spot/program! You, sir, are praised!
A minor point: Olympus recommended (after a brief stint) the use of two silver oxide batteries ONLY. Lithium and alkaline substitutes are not reliable. To adhere to Mr. Maitani's design requirements, his cameras had to be instantly useable without any action taken by the user -- "press the button and shoot". As a result, certain portions of these cameras circuitry were always "on", even when the camera was ostensibly "off". As a result, there is always a minute amount of current drain. (You can check this with a ammeter across the positive batteries in the chamber and the body -- after 90 seconds or so of uninterrupted power, the battery drain will drop, but never down to 0a.) Alkaline, and especially lithium, batteries cannot endure this drain, however minor it may be. Even so, you can expect silver oxides to die in six to twelve months, even with the camera sitting on a shelf. Of course, to extend battery life, you can remove them -- but you should be doing that anyway!
Some of these were known to develop loose shoes and strap lugs, as well as erratic ASA/ISO inputs. After the knob is left undisturbed for a day or so, watch the meter display as you move the ASA -- if it jumps up and down for a moment, you've got "erratic meter disease"! It's an easy fix for a knowledgeable tech (shoe and lugs, too), but you can get by with periodically turning the knob back and forth once or twice before shooting.
An interesting difference between the two generations of bodies (the OM-1/1n/2/2n and the later OM-2s/4/3/4T, etc.) is that the earlier models were built from the body castings out, layer by layer, while the later models were much more "modular" -- shutter assemblies made in one factory, wind assembly in another, etc, then "inserted" into a body casting. Made repairs a bit more difficult, but that's technology!
I know im asking randomly but does any of you know of a trick to log back into an instagram account??
I was dumb lost my account password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me
@Camden Miguel instablaster :)
@Ruben Brixton thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and im trying it out now.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Ruben Brixton It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much you saved my ass!
@Camden Miguel Happy to help =)
Thanks for sharing your review, It is much appreciated
Thanks for posting this!
ive got an OM2spot and for a while used it to take stage and theatre photos. I changed the viewing screen for one made by Beattie which gives far better clarity and luminousity than the original. Easy to change screens, catch is just under the pentaprism...
I think that the Olympus OM Spot Program was the best analogue SLR Camera which Olympus made !
@@cameraprepper7938 ...would tend to agree with you on that one. Brilliant camera! 👍😎
Great video but surprised you don't mention any of the many faults with the camera such as battery eating and viewfinder exposure meter failing...
......battery eating? Not really a problem on the om4ti....the om4 yes....but the upgraded circuitry one the om4ti really sorted this issue🤔
......as for exposures viewfinder metering failure.....never ever had a problem with this.....anyone else? 🤔🤔🤔
I think "B" is for bulb, optionally holding the exposure open for time exposures
Hi just bought one of these the batteries were flat so changed them I have tried to press the shutter release button but nothing happens. Apparently this can happen when the batteries were flat and it locks. Apparently there is a procedure to unlock this does anyone have any ideas how this can be done in layman’s terms? Thanks
The procedure you are talking about only applies to the Olympus OM2 and NOT to the OM2 spot program. Are you using the correct batteries? LR44 or SR44 are the correct ones. Make sure you have inserted them the right way up with the positive side in contact with the screw in cap. If this fails then it's possible that the shutter has failed on the camera. Try setting the shutter to the mechanical 1/60 of a second marked in red on the shutter speed ring. (Don't forget to press the small button marked "lock" in order to move the shutter to the red 1/60 of a second position) . If the shutter doesn't fire on the mechanical setting then I am afraid you have a failed shutter which will have to be sent away for repair.
@@bigwill4423 Thankyou I have tried that with and without the batteries and the shutter release still doesn’t function. I have only bought it today and it’s hardly been used but.I wound the winder back and tried to use shutter release with flat batteries and it’s locked. Is it a big job to release it?
@@davidgniadek924 It's a job which I certainly wouldn't attempt. I recommend you send it to www.lutoncameras.co.uk/ who are OM camera repair specialists and will leave your camera like new. If you've just bought this camera you could of course get your money back under your consumer rights as it is defective and unfit for purpose. Sorry to hear you got a duff one but if you get it repaired at Luton camera you will have a camera which will be a joy to use for many years to come.
@@bigwill4423 Thankyou I bought it from a private seller and externally the camera is absolute mint. I wonder how much they will charge for repairing and servicing it. I want something that will last me years I’m based in the north east so nowhere near to me that will repair it. I might try and return it to the couple who sold me it it was there fathers and left in cupboard for years hence the good condition difficult!?
@@davidgniadek924 It probably wouldn't be a cheap repair, probably in the region of the price you paid for the camera. That said, Luton cameras do a superb job. I've personally had them refurbish an om1n and a 4T and they did a superb job, fixing a failed shutter on the 4T as well as replacing the light seals, the om1n had the light seals replaced, shutter accuracy checked and converted to use SR44 batteries. Give them an email to get a quote for the work if you decide to go down the repair route or you could just get your money back from the seller. If the camera is in otherwise good condition I'd personally get a quote for it's repair and then decide.
At 10:31, do you say "B as back-up"?!
No my friend, B refers to a timed exposure where the shutter remains open as long as the shutter button is depressed. It stands for B "bulb exposure"
@@bigwill4423 I know that, I own this camera and I'm a photographer, but it sounds like you say "B as back-up", that's why I said that.
@ It's probably just my Ulster accent Jeremy! Lol Apologies if it sounds like that. 😃
It is clear that he said B "bulb" could be used AS backup for using the camera when the battery was flat but still being able to shoot. Not that B is backup and stands for the first letter in the word Backup as you seem to have mistakenly assumed. The context of the comment, manual backup or fallback when the battery is flat, makes this obvious, basic language comprehension. Your accent is just fine Jeremy and perfectly understandable.
Awesome video Big Will!
I love my OM-2sp, and running a second roll of film thru now, to make up for some of my mistakes on the last one. This is my original camera from those times past.
www.rsdunphyphotography.com/om2s
@Mike Zielinski That's awesome, and thank you for the kind comment. Lately, I have been getting better at metering :)