How to remove rear trunk hatch Lift Support Shocks bmw e39 5-series wagon
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Enter Promo Code: YT10 at our website www.bimmermerch...
10% Discount on all purchases
OK. So you've managed to remove the lift support shocks on your bmw e39 wagon. Want to learn steps now to install the shocks? Well, Watch this entire video where we will show you steps necessary to get this job done. After installing your lift shocks, you won't have to worry about rear hatch slamming the back of your head. Congratulations. 
Авто/Мото
After 7 years your video is still helping others. Awesome job - especially taking the time to cut open a parts car so the process becomes that much easier to understand! I did mine in 30 minutes!
Its almost 10 and nothing changed
lousy design
Brilliant! Only hitch is I didn't read the instrux on the glass lid strut packaging which mentioned removing the retaining clip. The retaining clip is a little insignificant piece of s*&^t which you can hardly see. It absolutely prevents one from installing onto the ball. Once I removed it, I had both glass lid struts mounted in 10 minutes, thanks to this brilliant instruction. the hatch struts took only a few minutes longer because they are bigger. thanks guys
Thanks for the video! My rear door was going to decapitate someone because the struts were completely dead.
Putting the new shocks in is not as hard as it appears. Trying to latch them in place is not necessary, just place and lock the shocks with the pin and then close the gate/glass and they will lock in place by themselves. I learned this only after trying to lock the shocks in place for 30 minutes.
@Romeo Ribeiro - I had your post in my head while I was working on my wagon and I just cannot understand it. Once you lock the shock with the pin, the other end of the shock is presumably hanging out on either side of the ball, how is it going to magically 'lift' itself so it's in line...and then how is it going to be 'pushed' down with a good hard click? I can see how this might make sense if the pin end was super tight and flush and it has no choice but to be aligned with the ball...but instead it has a tiny bit of wiggle room...thus it can move left or right i.e. out of alignment...how it will magically lift itself and pop into place by closing the gate/glass doesn't make sense to me! I bet I'm wrong since I am no mechanic, but I thought I should write my experience in case anyone else gets confused. Anyway this is great video - I purchased an inexpensive flat pry bar from home depot and it worked well - it's a tough job because it's very difficult to see...One thing I recommend, at least for the window gate shocks, is when you take the old shocks out, try not change the length or twist them - that way you can make your new shocks look exactly the same length and it will be easier to get the ball into the socket.
I have the same as Danny, could you explain in more detail? The idea sounds marvellous!
Thank you very much sharing this video with us ! It helped a lot to save money by doing the replacement myself. Great explanation and demonstration ! Keep up the excellent E39 Touring/Wagon videos !
Our pleasure. Be sure to visit our website for all your e39 pre-owned parts www.bimmermerchant.com
Good video to see inside of the roof.Helped me also.
The best way to install them back is lowering headliner from the back and removing those joints.Align shocks with the hole,turn the joint in a few threads making sure that the shock is still aligned.Hold it with the prybar and turn the joint in all the way.Make sure that the shock is locked on the joint especially when having hydraulic struts also.Bad installation may cause popping them off and locking your tailgate half way.
You can show a bit light from the back of the struts when headliner is lowered.There is a rubber cap in there.
Thanks for sharing
thanks man, this is so usefull. apreciate the efort to make the video!!! gonna recomend this
Great video, thanks for the details re/ . Will non oem support work ok?
Nice post. I started this last weekend and could not figure which way the ball & socket on the inboard end was situated. The Bentley book doesn't describe it well. Going to give it another do tomorrow!
bull shit the joint is a screw dont need to see it take it out and whit a finger you kan set the shok in a plase than you only make it stay an put bak the screw it easyer!
After that im change in 2hours thx bro, before im start demontering bouth backdors;p
Never seen this process described better, I thought the ball joint was the other way round!
Glad we could help. Be sure to check out our website for e39 models
Awesome video again.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
very good video and explanations, will do this soon. Thank you
I have a e46 touring... Hope it is the same.. Going to try to built the hydraulic system of a e39 on my e46
Let us know how it goes
Just did this job! Emotional stuff. I guess every vehicle through wear and tear might be slightly different however with mine for removal it was easiest to pop the far ends off then remove the pin from the door strut and then the clip from the window strut. For installation, fit the pin to the main door strut then pop the far end in, for the window strut, pop the far end in then slide the near end of the strut over its fixing position. Glad it's done, thank you so much for the video, the back doors been buggered on mine since I've had it (over 16 years... 😂).
Also used one of these on a longish usb lead, meant I could stick the light at the far end www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MZVCMT1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Again, great video! I just finished mine and it helped a LOT. Just a couple tips, make sure the cups on the forward ends are 90 degrees to the tabs on the back end. It helps align the cups for the pop onto the ball. Also, my new window struts came with additional locks and you CANNOT pop over these. Last but not least, the plastic covers that clip together and attach with screws are a pain. The way that worked for me is do the screw-on hatch hinge. halves first. Make sure you engage the rubber wire conduit before installation. Save the close-out strips for later. Close the hatch and open the window. You can now slip the hatch close-out strips into the hinge covers, set into the hinge pins and clip them shut. For the window hinge covers, insert the rubber conduit into the screw-on half, set the close-out strips into the hinge pins and clip shut. Now install the screw you can access. Close the window and raise the hatch. Install the last screw for the window hinge cover. Now reinstall the middle body trim, next the end pieces, and finally the hatch seal.
Remove the bolts under, the way you showing is the hard way :D
Can you possibly tell me the reference for the black plastic trim cover that were removed prior to the video? we see where they attached in 0:01 on top of the picture where you have alternating vertical and horizontal holes. many thanks!
fixed all 4 in an hour. thanks
Is it possible to make this without making a whole in the roof? :)
You save my day (and head)! Thank you guys!!
Per Lidbom You are welcome.
bimmermerchant how ca i fix my trunk lid botton. 528it 2000
NICE VIDEO! THX!
This video was very helpful in a 2000 e39 wagon rebuild, thank you! Now, I have a break light out.
The problem is the wiring harness where it bends to exit the cavity with the shocks in the hatch. Because of this location, I cannot get a hand on the wiring to repair or splice in new wires.
To properly work on this problem, the wiring harness must be released so it can be pulled out for repairs.
Your video about the shocks showed the two rubber wire sleeves as they feed the wires through the roof area right next to the shocks in the roof cavity. This gives me hope but not facts. I need to see the actual plug, understand where it is and how it needs to be released to pull the harness back and out for repair. Your video stopped there and didn’t show the wiring, plug, the upper inside of the roof or the rest of the wire path.
Are you familiar with this? Do you have an example you can show? Any wiring diagram?
Where are these plugs and how to release/reinstall them?
You can buy replacement tailgate wiring looms. Pretty sure if you drop the headliner you will find the connection
Is that the same process for e34 touring?
Hey bimmermerchant, thanks for the vid, just did my 2001 shocks and your video was a great insight, first pair took about an hour, second two took about 10 mins, and when you hear the 'pop' when they seat, YES!
Glad we could help.
Be sure to check out our website for all your pre-owned bmw parts. www.bimmermerchant.com
Very cool
Thanks a lot for this video. It will help me a lot for replacing the hatch shocks on my car ! I share this video on french forums I think it will help many e39 touring owners
Thanks. Feel free to share with your RUclips friends.
Best video to change the lifts, it was more than helpful. Thank you a lot
Thank you for watching. We're so glad we could help. Please subscribe to our channel if you haven't done so.
bimmermerchant any idea in how to replace the speakers on the back of the 528it 2000
MrMrmayaguezpr Headliner speakers or rear sub woofer speakers? If you are referring to headliner speakers, then the whole headliner has to come off. You could try popping out the plastic cover but it will break.
Do you know which wire is for the lights in the trunk?
unfortunately we don't.
very well done!
Thank you for watching our channel and for your feedback, well received. Feel free to share our channel to anyone that could benefit from it.
TOP, VERY GOOD
What are the part numbers of both shocks?
Nicholas Dupre You can view realoem.com to get part #'s or just call your local dealer.
Thanks for your video great work
Glad we could help.
Be sure to check out our website for all your pre-owned bmw parts. www.bimmermerchant.com
Do you have a video that shows how to remove the rear license plate molding ( part where the plate screws into )
No but will be sure to make a video once we get ahold of another wagon.
Don't forget to check out our website for all your pre-own bmw parts
www.bimmermerchant.com