To stop the corrosion in the first place, you can use transformer oil as used on power line transformers. Drill a hole in the side of the motor side plate. You can see in the center of the motor that there is a lot of empty space, and the side plate sets way back from anything. Fill until the oil is about up over the windings. Tear down on a ZEV Electric LRC with 15,000 miles on it showed no corrosion anywhere in the motor. According to Alcoa Alum,, heat transfer is radically better than bare aluminum if you black anodize the aluminum parts. Much better than paint, and anodized parts do not corrode remotely easily.
I agree with you fully. A motor unprotected by varnish or oil is sure to rust. The mechanism being: a hot motor expells some of the air it contains as the air heats, too, and expands. When the motor cools a suction ensues and if this happens in the rain, liquid water will be inhaled. It's easy for liquid water to get in and very hard for it to exit an untreated or unmodified hub motor. I oil-doped my last hub motor nine years ago. It ran fine but was soon destroyed in a crash. Will oil fill my next one, too, encouraged by your recommendation. From time to time, the oil will be drained and replaced. Oil will emulsify a good deal of water and yet still prevent rust. The clarity of the drained oil will adequately indicate the presence or absence of water. Turbid oil means significant water, water that will be removed by the proposed oil change.
@@Esk-be8kd It works, but stays only between the magnets and iron. A little better transfer can be done with other fluids. For most people the fero fluid works.
Yeaahhh... great video.. it makes a lot of sense protecting the motor from moisture and especially if adding ferrofluid... it splashes everywhere and is so hard to clean... much easier if is all coated like yours =]
Thanks, but too bad you don't tell us more about what exactly to use for the paint job... Kind of varnish for electric motors ?? That's supposed to be the point of the vid...
Instead of electrical varnish, use highly thermal conductive potting epoxy, that's the industry standard for stators. QS should roll dip these, then add gaskets, heatsinks, and ferrofluid from the start
Hi Docterbass,Done this to my MXUS V3 turbo also thanks for the idea!Will add some ferrofluid and hubsinks now. But I was thinking, will the ferrofluid dont cause abrasive wear on the coating?Do you have experience with the combo ferrofluid and the varnish?
I just read through your thread on endless sphere last week. It was fascinating. I learned a lot. Good to see a brief overview on video. I'm a little confused about the infrared thing though. But I can see how painting the inside of the covers black might draw more of the heat away from the stator and rotor.
Its like an infared heater. They use reflective surface to bounce that heat back to you. He is avoiding that by painting black to absorb infared. Infared loves black objects so cover will absorb it and it will leave outside of the motor
Ok Dr it's your TV turn Today thanks for sharing I been following you Eric, Luke,Spinning Magnets Matt Shumaker- from day One on EndlesssSphere and ebike forum's I'm a Original C80100 Melon Can Guy now I'm All LMT and MGM nevertheless I love the addapto ESC and All your teachings see you soon-Optimus Prime Technology.
Hello Dr Bass , Is it true that blackened or discolored copper stator windings show a case of over heating of the copper coils ? If this is true , what discoloration would show up on the stator coils after they are painted ? Thank You for sharing your valuable information on U Tube and the ES Forum too .
ZZ and R bearings are basically water-tight. What would make it so difficult to add two gaskets? Two-part silicone or separately cured single-part silicone. Butil rubber gaskets to measure or some other sealants on the side plates. Spraying that varnish on the stator will impede it's cooling. The magnets are safer as they are glued to the outer case.
Gaskets = bad. They bring moisture in. I've spent too many years running 4x4's threw water not to know that. Just silicone is better, but would make it hard to separate motor later. From what I've seen with electric bike motors, is to buy a quality motor to begin with. One designed to hold ferrofluid would be a good start. They don't have much of a gap in the machining to leak FF out or water in. Then use silicone on outside to seal any imperfections. The way I see it, the pain't can't hurt, and the smallest bead of high temp RTV spread out with a steady finger shouldn't hurt either. I would stay away from household silicone tub & tile grade. That stuff is just a mess!
How do you eliminate the rust from an already water damaged motor. I might be wrong, but I'm assuming that you are water proofing a relatively new motor that has no water damage. Would you recommend something like EvapoRust and then use Acetone and Isopropyl alcohol. EvapoRust is a non abrasive rust remover that is water soluble. I use it on a lot of small rusted parts and it is environmentally safe and seems like it might work. I haven't taken the motor in question apart yet, so I don't really know what I'm up against with regard to the extent of the oxidation and corrosion. Since my last question I found out that the polyurethane is sprayed on. I can't thank you enough for the information about using flat black paint to reduce the infra red reflection on the other side cover. Very Nice. I can't thank you enough. I'm going to make it a standard practice to waterproof all the motors that I use for all my builds in the future. This information is priceless to me. I'm sorry. I'm going on too long. Thanks again.
Hi thanks for the video I was thinking if use the automotive high temperature silicon Sealant on both side of the cover plate wouldn't that stop water getting inside the motor in first place and when is new because is less likely water can get in from bearing even some grease on bearing will stop the water what u think??
Hey, I don’t think everyone has the ability to do this, for the one reason that,we only have food ovens and we don’t own a Garage with a oven- bake spray-shop !! 😂
What about filling the motor with oil ? I have a problem with my bike motor not stopping with high humidity ☠️ I suspect it's a issue with the throttle Im going to try filling dielectric greese .
Thank you. Good Video. But how did you apply the Polyurethane Varnish? Did you use a brush, spray paint, or some other method? I'd also love to know how adding the Ferrofluid worked out. Thanks again.
mine works perfectly in rain , what i did is i used plasti dip spray and sprayed multiple layers all around the motor , since plasti dip is waterproof there is no way that water will get in the motor because it doesnt have anywhere to enter anymore. I highly recommend this to anybody and it is cheap way to do and you dont need to disasemble the motor.
@@jean-mariejm7404 no problem with heat at all. as i work as food delivery i have more than 10 000 kilometers on motor allready. I dont know it just works fine ahhah :)
I recently disassembled my hub motor and accidentally chipped the edge of one of my magnets. It might be just the coating, but are there any precautions I should take to prevent further chipping after reassembling? What product did you use to paint the magnets and motor components? Also, do you lose any performance when doing this? Wouldn’t the magnetic field be slightly weakened with extra material between them?
help me out body., i have a stealth F-37 ebike and i want to replace the large 24" tires with a smaller, say 20" tires. are they available and how can i lace the hub motor..!!
How long do you wait after spraying? Instructions say 7 days to fully cure.. Would be helpful if you explained you're process for people who want to replicate it.
Thanks for the informative video. What kind of fluid do you put inside the hub motor? is it normal engine oil or transmission fluid or light silicone oil?
Hello Doctorbass, is the motor already enough protected with only silicon on the outside rings? I have only put ferrofluid and the silicon on the motor. But not the color like you have? Merci. -Elias
I recommand replacing the actual "silicon" or bizzar grey paste thet they put between the side cover and the magnet ring by something else like quality exterior silicon..
Here is the old and still industry standard red phenolic resin insulating paint, www.hisco.com/Catalog/Paints-Coatings/Paints-Primers/Enamel-Paints/1201LV-21717 I first used Glyptol over thirty years ago in electric motor maintenance and antique auto engine block sealing. It is is entirely practical and perhaps even more desireable to brush on the liquid, which may thereby more fully penetrate the windings and magnet gaps by capillarity. In an earlier era motor makers used vacuum impregnation for full saturation of windings. This is not often done today nor is it necessary, considering the high degree of protection afforded by modern wire coatings. Glyptol is available in aerosol spray, Eastwood carries it in the States. Other brands such as Dr. Bass cites are perhaps just as good as the original Glyptol. Despite my personal preference for dip or brush, Dr. Bass' long and practical experience proves that aerosol application penetrates and works perfectly well for this task and the brand he cites is really good, too.
To stop the corrosion in the first place, you can use transformer oil as used on power line transformers. Drill a hole in the side of the motor side plate. You can see in the center of the motor that there is a lot of empty space, and the side plate sets way back from anything. Fill until the oil is about up over the windings. Tear down on a ZEV Electric LRC with 15,000 miles on it showed no corrosion anywhere in the motor.
According to Alcoa Alum,, heat transfer is radically better than bare aluminum if you black anodize the aluminum parts. Much better than paint, and anodized parts do not corrode remotely easily.
I agree with you fully. A motor unprotected by varnish or oil is sure to rust. The mechanism being: a hot motor expells some of the air it contains as the air heats, too, and expands. When the motor cools a suction ensues and if this happens in the rain, liquid water will be inhaled. It's easy for liquid water to get in and very hard for it to exit an untreated or unmodified hub motor.
I oil-doped my last hub motor nine years ago. It ran fine but was soon destroyed in a crash. Will oil fill my next one, too, encouraged by your recommendation. From time to time, the oil will be drained and replaced. Oil will emulsify a good deal of water and yet still prevent rust. The clarity of the drained oil will adequately indicate the presence or absence of water. Turbid oil means significant water, water that will be removed by the proposed oil change.
Which type of oil and quantity i put?
Ferrofuild?
@@Esk-be8kd It works, but stays only between the magnets and iron. A little better transfer can be done with other fluids. For most people the fero fluid works.
@@MegaDhz what other fluids
So well done. Thanks for this detailed and correct preventive maintenence against otherwise inevitable failure.
Yeaahhh... great video.. it makes a lot of sense protecting the motor from moisture and especially if adding ferrofluid... it splashes everywhere and is so hard to clean... much easier if is all coated like yours =]
ElectricBike - you are a very smart Green Peace Warrior I see you follow all the OG,s in the Electric Revolution
ElectricBike - When I Land in your Galaxy I,ll Reunite All Autobots- Optimus Prime Technologies.
Hey Bruno, I thought just the Ferrofluid would do the job of protecting from rust?
How you been man? More POWERRRRRR I hope!
Thanks, but too bad you don't tell us more about what exactly to use for the paint job... Kind of varnish for electric motors ?? That's supposed to be the point of the vid...
Search electric Insulating Varnish. Green or red same thing.
Instead of electrical varnish, use highly thermal conductive potting epoxy, that's the industry standard for stators. QS should roll dip these, then add gaskets, heatsinks, and ferrofluid from the start
Yes. That'a good for the stator but how do you protect the rotor and the magnets from rust
Hi Docterbass,Done this to my MXUS V3 turbo also thanks for the idea!Will add some ferrofluid and hubsinks now.
But I was thinking, will the ferrofluid dont cause abrasive wear on the coating?Do you have experience with the combo ferrofluid and the varnish?
I just read through your thread on endless sphere last week. It was fascinating. I learned a lot. Good to see a brief overview on video.
I'm a little confused about the infrared thing though. But I can see how painting the inside of the covers black might draw more of the heat away from the stator and rotor.
Its like an infared heater. They use reflective surface to bounce that heat back to you. He is avoiding that by painting black to absorb infared. Infared loves black objects so cover will absorb it and it will leave outside of the motor
I know this is an old video, but wouldn't the paint affect the magnets magnetic field and also cause friction?
why would paint effect the magnetic field? only cause friction if you use a thick layer...
Ok Dr it's your TV turn Today thanks for sharing I been following you Eric, Luke,Spinning Magnets Matt Shumaker- from day One on EndlesssSphere and ebike forum's I'm a Original C80100 Melon Can Guy now I'm All LMT and MGM nevertheless I love the addapto ESC and All your teachings see you soon-Optimus Prime Technology.
Hello Dr Bass , Is it true that blackened or discolored copper stator windings show a case of over heating of the copper coils ? If this is true , what discoloration would show up on the stator coils after they are painted ?
Thank You for sharing your valuable information on U Tube and the ES Forum too .
wow how much juice you pump into that motor? the cables are HUGE!
69kw ;)
ZZ and R bearings are basically water-tight.
What would make it so difficult to add two gaskets? Two-part silicone or separately cured single-part silicone. Butil rubber gaskets to measure or some other sealants on the side plates.
Spraying that varnish on the stator will impede it's cooling.
The magnets are safer as they are glued to the outer case.
Gaskets = bad. They bring moisture in. I've spent too many years running 4x4's threw water not to know that. Just silicone is better, but would make it hard to separate motor later. From what I've seen with electric bike motors, is to buy a quality motor to begin with. One designed to hold ferrofluid would be a good start. They don't have much of a gap in the
machining to leak FF out or water in. Then use silicone on outside to seal any imperfections. The way I see it, the pain't can't hurt, and the smallest bead of high temp RTV spread out with a steady finger shouldn't hurt either. I would stay away from household silicone tub & tile grade. That stuff is just a mess!
How do you eliminate the rust from an already water damaged motor. I might be wrong, but I'm assuming that you are water proofing a relatively new motor that has no water damage. Would you recommend something like EvapoRust and then use Acetone and Isopropyl alcohol. EvapoRust is a non abrasive rust remover that is water soluble. I use it on a lot of small rusted parts and it is environmentally safe and seems like it might work. I haven't taken the motor in question apart yet, so I don't really know what I'm up against with regard to the extent of the oxidation and corrosion. Since my last question I found out that the polyurethane is sprayed on. I can't thank you enough for the information about using flat black paint to reduce the infra red reflection on the other side cover. Very Nice. I can't thank you enough. I'm going to make it a standard practice to waterproof all the motors that I use for all my builds in the future. This information is priceless to me. I'm sorry. I'm going on too long. Thanks again.
Hi thanks for the video I was thinking if use the automotive high temperature silicon Sealant on both side of the cover plate wouldn't that stop water getting inside the motor in first place and when is new because is less likely water can get in from bearing even some grease on bearing will stop the water what u think??
Thats my plan.
Hey, I don’t think everyone has the ability to do this, for the one reason that,we only have food ovens and we don’t own a Garage with a oven- bake spray-shop !! 😂
Great stuff, thanks.
Very neat job you have there 👍
Try adding some automotive RTV to the cover flange when reassembling.
Good informative vid! What kind of epoxy did you use?🤷♂️
What if you painted in use ferrofluid with the magnetic particles in the fluid chip away at the paint
What about filling the motor with oil ? I have a problem with my bike motor not stopping with high humidity ☠️ I suspect it's a issue with the throttle Im going to try filling dielectric greese .
If you removed the cover plate and didn’t mark it, Is there a way to align it again?
The rust protection will not change the magnetic properties of the magnets?
Thank you. Good Video. But how did you apply the Polyurethane Varnish? Did you use a brush, spray paint, or some other method? I'd also love to know how adding the Ferrofluid worked out. Thanks again.
Does this method of staining work well in the engine ? - I'm from Russia, I don't remember English ☹️
Actually, I would only change "engine" to "motor" from your phrase
How about heat dissipation will it get really hot? Thanks
Need an answer for this??
mine works perfectly in rain , what i did is i used plasti dip spray and sprayed multiple layers all around the motor , since plasti dip is waterproof there is no way that water will get in the motor because it doesnt have anywhere to enter anymore. I highly recommend this to anybody and it is cheap way to do and you dont need to disasemble the motor.
nice, but how the heat can dissipate afterwards?
@@jean-mariejm7404 no problem with heat at all. as i work as food delivery i have more than 10 000 kilometers on motor allready. I dont know it just works fine ahhah :)
it will come in - via the cables, the shaft, you name it. the covers are not the only entry point.
Question: do you do this for customers? I'm looking at doing this to my new bike which has the QS273 motor
What exactly did you paint it with? Was it a special paint?
I recently disassembled my hub motor and accidentally chipped the edge of one of my magnets. It might be just the coating, but are there any precautions I should take to prevent further chipping after reassembling? What product did you use to paint the magnets and motor components? Also, do you lose any performance when doing this? Wouldn’t the magnetic field be slightly weakened with extra material between them?
help me out body., i have a stealth F-37 ebike and i want to replace the large 24" tires with a smaller, say 20" tires. are they available and how can i lace the hub motor..!!
how to remove the rotor from the rusted part?
look at vinegar rust removal.
Great advice👍🏻 what kind of paint? What Make 🏴🛴💨
good luck on any rework
Where to perchase this for my cycle pls let me know
Do you still make the torque arms?
Where You buy thats hub motors?
After spraying, do you bake the paint in an oven or let it sit and dry for many days? Merci
How long do you wait after spraying? Instructions say 7 days to fully cure..
Would be helpful if you explained you're process for people who want to replicate it.
Thanks for the informative video. What kind of fluid do you put inside the hub motor? is it normal engine oil or transmission fluid or light silicone oil?
Ferro Fluid ... Got it sorry. :))
tu es de quelle ville?
Salut !
J'aimerai procéder au Waterproofing de mes moteurs. J'aimerai si possible pouvoir discuter avec vous du procédé. Avez-vous une page Facebook ?
Did you spray paint it?
thanks man, very good info
thanks for the advice.
Hello Doctorbass, is the motor already enough protected with only silicon on the outside rings? I have only put ferrofluid and the silicon on the motor. But not the color like you have? Merci.
-Elias
I recommand replacing the actual "silicon" or bizzar grey paste thet they put between the side cover and the magnet ring by something else like quality exterior silicon..
www.sprayon.com/product/el601-red-insulating-varnish/ is the product he uses
and will it hold 120 c temps ? ( this is how i roll for now :D )
Where do i buy the orange couting
Search for Sprayon EL 601 you will find alot of place where you can buy these. The can i bought i got these from Motion Canada.
Here is the old and still industry standard red phenolic resin insulating paint, www.hisco.com/Catalog/Paints-Coatings/Paints-Primers/Enamel-Paints/1201LV-21717
I first used Glyptol over thirty years ago in electric motor maintenance and antique auto engine block sealing.
It is is entirely practical and perhaps even more desireable to brush on the liquid, which may thereby more fully penetrate the windings and magnet gaps by capillarity. In an earlier era motor makers used vacuum impregnation for full saturation of windings. This is not often done today nor is it necessary, considering the high degree of protection afforded by modern wire coatings. Glyptol is available in aerosol spray, Eastwood carries it in the States. Other brands such as Dr. Bass cites are perhaps just as good as the original Glyptol. Despite my personal preference for dip or brush, Dr. Bass' long and practical experience proves that aerosol application penetrates and works perfectly well for this task and the brand he cites is really good, too.
@@Doctorbasss what kind of epoxy for the magnets, did you thicken it?
Good idea!
Well this isn't good news.. Does anyone know if the mxus 3000w v3 motors rust like this?
I think every motor will rust after time, if you leave it in the rain.... Its just a question of time / years...
This hub motor will heat up very quick.
Mor information for motor hubs
Nice work DB!
nice idea
I can washer the motor hubs
You sound like Kermit the frog. :)
Well Done
Or do not driving during rain :)