I always appreciate a good instructional video for the simple DIY guy. I strongly recommend you use a jack stand to take the weight and a hydraulic jack as a back up. Parking brake function is for servicing the rear brakes only. Not the front. (I worked at a dodge dealer doing this) Also not sure if you edited it out but I would clean the hub and the slider pins as I've seen on other videos. This will allow the caliper to slide back on its own and prevent premature wear on the pads or rotors and prevent hot spots when sticking. Another suggestion would be using antiseize on the hub. A very thin layer. The rotor will come off like melted butter next time you service it. Also the rust build up behind will actually put the rotor off balance and when driving you will get groves or pitting in the rotor because it's not sitting flush on the hub. Be safe and take care and thanks for the videos!
Yeah, I was wondering about the. The parking brake only affects the rear brakes on most cars. If anything, for a front job, keeping it activated is one more piece of insurance against the car rolling.
Thank you very much for making this video. It gives us a pretty good insight to what we're about to get into. And especially you named all the parts and the size wrenches that will need. That was very important. And The Thing about the brakes was great too. So I really do appreciate tyes and I just want to thank you.
@@herrwabbaloo937 well I’m in a northern state, high of 9 degrees tomorrow. So ya no heat but cold as heck. Is a torque wrench necessary and did you grease the caliper pistons?
@@herrwabbaloo937 alright thanks. Can I ask two more questions? lol. What poundage did you for Chrysler van? And how did you grease do you have to remove the rubber part?
It's easier to work on these if you turn the wheel all the way (to the right for this side). This enhances access to the bolts. I also thread on a lug nut to hold the rotor in place while assembling the new parts. You should also brush the face of the hub assembly prior to installing the rotor as entrapped debris can cause pulsations. I always change the SS slides too. Hope this helps.
Our pacifica has 110k miles and original brakes. I am replacing them now but they really aren't that bad. The rotors are warped pretty bad but no pitting .
I’ve turned too many bolts from righty-tighty into righty-loosey in my life, so I like to look up torque specs, especially brakes, suspension and anything aluminum.
Wow! Both inner rotors looked like that - Scary. Probably due to the salt on the roads. Around me (NY) they over salted the roads the last two years. One tip. Also clean and lube the slide pins durning a pad change. That’s the part with the springy boot. Most caliper issues are the slide pins not working properly. Use a good silicone paste like 3M
Yeah I’m friends with my mechanic and we were talking about the rotors. He said the same , the salty roads and probably cheaper rotors . The slide pins were working perfectly and I could hear the grease when I squeezed on them so I just left them . Thanks for the tip and the comment.
Strange. My front rotor was pitted on the back side as well. Also the inner pad was very worn down but the outside pad was fine. I changed one front rotor and I'm going to change the other one today. My slider pins seemed fine too.
Yo Dave this is an old post but I’m attempting my Pacifica brakes tomorrow. How do you get access to put grease in those slide pins? Isn’t it covered? Do you remove the rubber part?
I found out that you can put the jack stand right under the tow hook front left (passenger side). Pacifica is definitely limited where you can put the jack stand with floor jack.
@Steven Green I thought I deleted the question lol. Anyway, I’ve heard that the Husky aren’t very accurate, so I bought a Pittsburgh, and it seems to work very well.
the reason you couldnt find a video ia probably because its very standard, the rear is different because of the ebrake issue, nontheless, comments in this video answered my question, no ebrake issue with front brakes ill check this video back qhen qe are ready for rears
Wire brush or wire wheel around the center. I usually run some risky crap like smacking it with a hammer . The rotor that is nothing else . Just a little tap tap smack
Sometimes you can thread a big bolt from the back from where the caliper mounts . But be careful not to break the mount or strip the threads from over tightening . You’ll then have a bigger project on your hands .
It's only necessary to disable the park brake when servicing the rear brakes. The rear brakes have park brake actuators, but the front wheels do not. The inside of your rotors and inner pads look terrible for only 38K miles. Our 2018 Pacifica has 53K miles and has at least 50% of the pad material left on both the inner and outer pads, but the way your rotors look has me concerned..The front brakes on our van do make some noise when braking hard on the highway and braking power in general seems to be lacking. I plan on taking things apart just to see what the inner side of the rotors look like.
If you have the money, there is a handy, dual piston recess tool. It's easier and you don't have to worry about recession the one piston more than the other. It's equal pressure to both.
Obviously a video just to see what you’re getting yourself into but YOU DO NOT need to retract the brakes if you’re doing just the front, you only need this option for the rear brakes
Please be careful. You never let the Van down on the jack stands. Never leave on the hydraulic jack for work ... Always use Jack stand as primary and hydraulic as secondary not vice versa
i got my weekend project for my wife’s van and this made life a lot easier. thanks again kyle.
You’re welcome! Remember block the tires and use jack stands
I always appreciate a good instructional video for the simple DIY guy. I strongly recommend you use a jack stand to take the weight and a hydraulic jack as a back up.
Parking brake function is for servicing the rear brakes only. Not the front. (I worked at a dodge dealer doing this)
Also not sure if you edited it out but I would clean the hub and the slider pins as I've seen on other videos. This will allow the caliper to slide back on its own and prevent premature wear on the pads or rotors and prevent hot spots when sticking.
Another suggestion would be using antiseize on the hub. A very thin layer. The rotor will come off like melted butter next time you service it. Also the rust build up behind will actually put the rotor off balance and when driving you will get groves or pitting in the rotor because it's not sitting flush on the hub.
Be safe and take care and thanks for the videos!
Thank you . I appreciate this comment
Yeah, I was wondering about the. The parking brake only affects the rear brakes on most cars. If anything, for a front job, keeping it activated is one more piece of insurance against the car rolling.
thanks for confirming, that was my only question@@LoveStallion
Thank you very much for making this video. It gives us a pretty good insight to what we're about to get into. And especially you named all the parts and the size wrenches that will need. That was very important. And The Thing about the brakes was great too. So I really do appreciate tyes and I just want to thank you.
Pads just started grinding on our 2018 (about 110k miles), so I’m picking up pads and doing them in the morning. This is an excellent video.
How did it go? Any issues? I’m doing mine tomorrow
@LP3me it was hotter than hell, but luckily it's winter now, so you should be fine! And the work itself was no problem.
@@herrwabbaloo937 well I’m in a northern state, high of 9 degrees tomorrow. So ya no heat but cold as heck. Is a torque wrench necessary and did you grease the caliper pistons?
@@LP3me yes, you'll want a torque wrench, it's a good thing to have for many car repair jobs. And yes I did grease the caliper pins.
@@herrwabbaloo937 alright thanks. Can I ask two more questions? lol. What poundage did you for Chrysler van? And how did you grease do you have to remove the rubber part?
It's easier to work on these if you turn the wheel all the way (to the right for this side). This enhances access to the bolts. I also thread on a lug nut to hold the rotor in place while assembling the new parts. You should also brush the face of the hub assembly prior to installing the rotor as entrapped debris can cause pulsations. I always change the SS slides too. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the comment Grant !
Our pacifica has 110k miles and original brakes. I am replacing them now but they really aren't that bad. The rotors are warped pretty bad but no pitting .
Great video. Is a torque wrench really necessary can you just tighten it good? I don’t have one so I’m wondering if necessary
Great call on the electronic brake with 2x4.
Thanks for the help on this
Glad I could help
I’ve turned too many bolts from righty-tighty into righty-loosey in my life, so I like to look up torque specs, especially brakes, suspension and anything aluminum.
Nice work, Sir!
Caliper bracket is the word you're looking for.
There it is lol . Thanks 👍🏻
Where did you get the brakes from/how much?
Wow! Both inner rotors looked like that - Scary. Probably due to the salt on the roads. Around me (NY) they over salted the roads the last two years.
One tip. Also clean and lube the slide pins durning a pad change. That’s the part with the springy boot. Most caliper issues are the slide pins not working properly. Use a good silicone paste like 3M
Yeah I’m friends with my mechanic and we were talking about the rotors. He said the same , the salty roads and probably cheaper rotors .
The slide pins were working perfectly and I could hear the grease when I squeezed on them so I just left them .
Thanks for the tip and the comment.
Strange. My front rotor was pitted on the back side as well. Also the inner pad was very worn down but the outside pad was fine. I changed one front rotor and I'm going to change the other one today. My slider pins seemed fine too.
@@KyleHallwoodworker our van also has like 38k miles, very strange, makes me nervous that something could be wrong with the calipers
Yo Dave this is an old post but I’m attempting my Pacifica brakes tomorrow. How do you get access to put grease in those slide pins? Isn’t it covered? Do you remove the rubber part?
I found out that you can put the jack stand right under the tow hook front left (passenger side). Pacifica is definitely limited where you can put the jack stand with floor jack.
Thanks for the tip Joseph !
When you replace the front brake pads and rotors do you have to de-activate the parking brake? Thanks
I did . When I looked it up is said to de-activate it .
No you don’t. The parking break system is on the rear brakes. The front brake pads have nothing to do with the parking break system.
Do you have a fairly affordable torque wrench that you would recommend?
I use an old one that was my grandfather’s. It’s an antique. Lol
You can borrow them from places like Auto Zone and advanced auto
@Steven Green I thought I deleted the question lol.
Anyway, I’ve heard that the Husky aren’t very accurate, so I bought a Pittsburgh, and it seems to work very well.
the reason you couldnt find a video ia probably because its very standard, the rear is different because of the ebrake issue, nontheless, comments in this video answered my question, no ebrake issue with front brakes ill check this video back qhen qe are ready for rears
Perfect...thanks for the vids!!
You are welcome. Glad they help . I will be replacing down stream o2 sensors some so there will be a video on that also
Thanks boss!
Thanks very good video
Having trouble getting the rotor off?
Wire brush or wire wheel around the center. I usually run some risky crap like smacking it with a hammer . The rotor that is nothing else . Just a little tap tap smack
14:08 wire wheel that spot I talk about
Sometimes you can thread a big bolt from the back from where the caliper mounts . But be careful not to break the mount or strip the threads from over tightening . You’ll then have a bigger project on your hands .
You can also look this up on A1 auto here on RUclips they usually have really good instructions for this kind of stuff
You had a jar of anti-seize. Put some on the face of the hub so next time the rotor will come off just as easy as the first. They get worse and worse.
It's only necessary to disable the park brake when servicing the rear brakes. The rear brakes have park brake actuators, but the front wheels do not.
The inside of your rotors and inner pads look terrible for only 38K miles. Our 2018 Pacifica has 53K miles and has at least 50% of the pad material left on both the inner and outer pads, but the way your rotors look has me concerned..The front brakes on our van do make some noise when braking hard on the highway and braking power in general seems to be lacking. I plan on taking things apart just to see what the inner side of the rotors look like.
Nice video brother thank you
You’re welcome Wayne !
If you have the money, there is a handy, dual piston recess tool. It's easier and you don't have to worry about recession the one piston more than the other. It's equal pressure to both.
Thanks Michael , I will have to look into one of these
How many miles does the van have?
It currently has 38,155 miles
@@KyleHallwoodworker wow, I can believe you are having to replace pads and rotors at that low mileage.
@@Joseph-eh4rs a friend who is a trusted Mechanic thinks it’s a mix of two things . Excessive road salt and poor metals.
@@Joseph-eh4rs These Pacificas are TANKS. Doing mine for wifey at 44K.
Did you crack the bleaders to push the pistons in
No
No need to
@@KyleHallwoodworker thank you
Your welcome. All I did was block the tires and disabled the electronic parking break .
No need. But you should take the cap off the brake reservoir. Just because of the pressure
Obviously a video just to see what you’re getting yourself into but YOU DO NOT need to retract the brakes if you’re doing just the front, you only need this option for the rear brakes
Please be careful. You never let the Van down on the jack stands. Never leave on the hydraulic jack for work ... Always use Jack stand as primary and hydraulic as secondary not vice versa
How many miles did you have on those brakes
38k