Subaru VF Series Turbo Rebuild
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- Опубликовано: 30 янв 2020
- In this video, I rebuild my spare IHI VF40 Subaru turbo to get it ready for the new engine. I bought a 30 dollar rebuild kit of ebay and a couple of other parts. I got it balanced for 50 dollars, and i paid 90 dollars for this turbo from the junkyard. Im only 200 dollars into this turbo and it is just like new, without the 1100 dollar price tag.
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use an impact screwdriver at 8:00 for those little t10 torque bits. you will get them out no problem. please pin this comment.
And don’t buy a garbage Harbor Freight one.. ask me how I know lol
@@Mike_44 How do you know? 🤨
Great vid man lots of solid info here! You should update the description with links to all the parts and places you referenced!
Glad you enjoyed it, I will get on updating the description asap
I know this video is a couple years old now, but some comments. The bolt trick can definitely work. Ideally either go between the thicker webbing or the bolts and the housing. That, and apply some pressure with the bolts, add some lubricant and/or heat, then do some whacking. The pressure plus the shocks will free them faster. Cool tip on the aftermarket O-ring housing base though. What shop did you go to? $50 for a balance is cheap! The greasy carbon substance on your center housing was a combo of burned AKA coked oil and exhaust gasses, plus likely some rust or corrosion. Good video overall! Yes the banjo bolt filters can kill turbos. Especially with long oil change intervals or general neglect. The filter for the turbo is usually in the bolt on the back of the passenger head I believe. Most people just remove it.
Yeah I have seen the bolt trick work but I think I just did it wrong and broke the cold side base plate. The shop I took my turbo to to balance was TSR in santee California. The cost of a full rebuild was $400 I believe so since I did that myself they only charged me $50 to do the balance. Glad you liked the video, thanks for watching!
@@SWSpeedCo Good stuff. Wish I was closer to them! Yeah very high quality video overall. Leaned a lot about the VF.
Excellent, thanks
2006 subie sti with stock spt add ons. 130,000 miles . May replace banjo bolt with screen filter and do what you did.
It's best to just get rid of the banjo bolt filters all together. They get clogged up and can starve your turbo of oil
I didn’t think the sti’s or wrx’s had banjo bolt screens on the turbo
I'm not sure if they do, all I know is its best to not have the screen filters in them
@@TheKnightHenry They dont !
great tips and well documented lad thanks heaps, um whats the torq on the hairdryers cool side please, rebuilding a vf38 and cant find anything due to the clowndation govt locking shiz down to make compliance for the electric evolution in new zealand, and wheres the run after your rebuild vid?
looks like the torque spec is 1.8 - 2.2 Newton Meters for the turbine shaft nut.
This is the first start video with the new engine and turbo: ruclips.net/video/tq43o3bFEMU/видео.html
Thanks for watching!
thanks once again@@SWSpeedCo
Do you know where I could get replacement elbows for the outlet side of the turbo ? The 5mm one. Thanks :)
No I don't know where you could get one of those. Sorry
@@SWSpeedCo no probs, thanks for the reply though 👌🏼
I stripped the t10s so I hammered the next sized torx in to get it out
I’m in the process to rebuild my VF48. But I’m thinking to buy a cartridge ready to go. Just having issues what brand to get.
Probably the safer way to go. I would just avoid getting a Chinese one. Ideally something made in Japan
How did this go I need to do this aswell
This is quite the service you did here! Since my ej255 suffered a spun bearing and the motor is now seized, do you think I should do this service to my turbo before swapping it on to the ej20x? I’m concerned the turbo might contain small pieces of metal that might have been circulating throughout the motor oil. Please use a bit more light next time 😀 Awesome work by the way!
Edit: Haha I just noticed you added light at the end of the video.. 👍🏻 That setup at the end looks great.
Did your car ha e the banjo bolt filters in place?
@@SWSpeedCo Not sure. I have been working on the ej20x motor, still haven’t pulled the ej255 out of the car, but more than likely it doesn’t have them.
Idk if I would disassemble a turbo just for that but you could probably just run oil through it from the feed hole till it comes out the drain clean
@@SWSpeedCo I see what you mean. I didn’t know if I would be able to remove possible small metal shavings that might be in it without disassembling it. Maybe also reverse flowing oil though it as well? I’ve never done this before..
Worth a try
Yeah.. I think my turbo failed too, the intake wheel ended up stiff. Originally, my motor suffered a spun bearing, but I’m thinking now the whole issue might have started with oil starvation issue to the turbo.. definitely getting that custom line, really appreciate that information. BNR website states they have never seen a motor that was so harsh on turbos as the Subaru engine. I’m guessing the oil line directly from the filter has enough pressure right? How’s yours holding up so far?
Mine has been working good. I actually have a torque solutions line kit that uses stainless braided lines in the factory oil feed ports and I like it alot. The turbo and engines usually go out together.
@@SWSpeedCo when you say the turbo, you mean just the CHRA, or the housings tend to get damaged too? I’m about to pull the ej255 off the car. So, you are no longer running the BNR braided line from the oil filter up? Which one do you recommend and where should I connect it to? Too many questions I know, but I’m trying to do this correctly once for all. I don’t want the other ej20x engine to get damaged too..Thnks
If the turbo has alot of shaft play it can contact the housings and damage them. Either oil line setup will work just as well but the torque solutions lines are pretty much bolt on and doesn't require non original line routing.
@@SWSpeedCo Ok cool, I’ll look into the TS line too. I’m hoping I can just use a rebuild kit for the turbo but if it’s worse, I’ll be getting a Melett CHRA if mine is bad. I’m hoping the fins on the wheels are not bent. Melett is a great company that uses top quality materials, based in Europe, their U.S. shop is in Memphis, TN.
I’ve browsed through the entire FSM, the copy I have only shows removal and operation of the turbocharger, but no disassembly/inspection or service in general. What service/specs reference can we use for guidance?
I'm not sure if there were really any torque specs, most of the bolts are very small so I just got them good and snuged as to not strip them and it's been holding up.
When I did mine I pretty much just took it apart and took a bunch of pictures and made sure to put it back to together the same way
@@SWSpeedCo Yeah, it looks like both the turbocharger and the AVCS pulleys aren’t listed as serviceable in the FSM. Pretty cool that you overhauled the turbo on your own. 👍🏻
Edit: After doing research I found out Subaru turbochargers are actually made by Mitsubishi. Don’t bother searching the web for a shop manual though, you won’t find one.
@@SWSpeedCo Awesome work! 👏🏻
Can the O Ring be purchased separately?
To my knowledge no, you have to buy the whole part
You're calling that disk a heat shield, should it be free/loose like that?
Yeah it helps shield the center section from theat that is confusing from the exhaust side of the turbo so you don't cook your oil. An yes it's normal for it to be loose like that, once you install the exhaust housing it holds it in place
Do you already put some millage on it? It would be interesting to know if this rebuilt kit are good enough or not... Thanks!
Not yet but I will keep you updated, I'm sure the kit is fine because all of the parts are metal and looked exactly like the stuff I was pulling out
I got a little over 300 Miles on it and the turbo is still doing good and making great boost. It's hitting 16psi on wastegate pressure.
@@SWSpeedCo how is the turbo doing today I am looking to rebuild a vf39 I bought that is leaking oil
It's doing great, I got about 4000 miles on it so far and I have had zero problems
@@SWSpeedCo This was the stock Subaru turbo? A job well done! 👏🏻
mine came off like butter, but i have a couple hard to reach spots on a rusted motorcycle frame.. and have been looking for a dremel/ grinder like yours ... whats it called and can you point me to it ? thank you !
Its just an attachment for the normal dremel. I got it at lowes, it screws onto the dremel tool and essentially works like an old school speedo cable.
Dremel 225-01- Flex Shaft Rotary Tool Attachment
@@SWSpeedCo Ive been looking for the tool/attachment for a while now, especially in the PNW everything we own has rust at some point and cutting it to use a impact flathead would definetly help !.
I'm in cali so u don't have severe rust problem like you, but whenever I have a stuck or striped bolt cutting a slot and using a flathead always works 👍
Harbor freight has a nice dremel kit
Hey does this needs to be balanced after its rebuilt?
Yeah, I had a local turbo shop balance it, they only charged $50
where did the heat shield go?
It's on there, i just forgot to put it on for the video. At some point I realized it wasn't on and put it on off video.
Had 2 turbo failures on my LGT. Now I'm doing the oil line direct to filter. Had the stock location lines upgraded before too. Will this fix my problem?
Do you know if the cause of the turbo failure was oil starvation?
@@SWSpeedCo Not sure. 1st turbo I blamed myself for being new to tuning and boost leaks. WG duty cycle too high, IDK. 2nd Turbo I changed WG controller back to stock. Used stock WRX numbers for a VF52 on my LGT. Drove to car for weeks with no CEL and then yesterday high RPM pull Turbo shaft started going out.
Hmm, do you have the banjo bolt filters removed?
@@SWSpeedCo On the passenger side but not the drivers side. Not sure if that could be the problem. Didn't know about the drivers side one until yesterday
On the driver side I think there is only one that goes into the avcs solenoid. Idk if that could cause a problem with your turbo but I would remove it anyway. If you already upgraded your turbo feed lines I would pull the lines and blow air or oil through them to see if there clogged, if your lines are not clogged then your problem is somewhere else
Is there a parts list with links? Need to rebuild a VF28
I've tried to put a link to parts in the description but since I bought the rebuild kit on ebay there is never a consistent link. Just go on ebay and look up vf28 rebuild kit and you should find something, or you could get one from a more reputable source but it will cost more for what is likely the same parts.
From my research the vf28 is a ball bearing turbo which are technically "non-rebuildable". This makes it really hard to find replacement bearings for them. I found this on ebay www.ebay.com/itm/Repair-Rebuild-Kit-for-IHI-RHF5HB-VF34-Ball-Bearing-Turbo-SUBARU-EJ20-STI-/133337506994
It says it is for a vf34 but it seems like all the ihi vf series ball bearing turbos use the same internal components. I think you should do some more research, but I'm pretty sure this kit will work and I'm pretty sure the turbo is rebuildable. Just a word of advice, when you are pressing in the new bearings only press on the outer ring so you don't mess up the bearing. Just be careful and good luck
please get a torque wrench... doesn't have to be Snap-on... any one is better than none... you'll be glad you did... 👍
Little late but how did it hold up
Holding up very well, I put about 10k miles on it before I upgraded to big turbo. And I had to put my car back to stock for a little while so it's currently in the car and still working well
Would this kit, or similar, work for a VF39 turbo?
Yeah they are very similar, I can't remember if the kit is that same or not but regardless it's the same idea.
@@SWSpeedCo How's it holding up since the rebuild? i want to order a rebuild for mine but cautious about doing all the work using a cheep ebay rebuild kit.mine is smoking, i have a stock 2014 sti .. do you know what turbo model VF is on my car?
I put about 14k miles on it and it worked perfectly. I have a big turbo in it now so I removed the stock turbo and it still has zero shaft play and I'm sure I could have put another 100k no issues. I think the 2014 wrx would have the vf48 or vf52 I'm not 100% sure though. If you decide to rebuild it just make sure that you take it to a turbo shop to get balanced
@@KFLY67 Melett makes a great quality rebuild parts kit for the VF Subaru turbos. They’re based in Europe but have a big shop in Memphis TN.
That's not at all how you do it. phuck bro, you know so much about so little.
Turbo is still going strong. What does that tell you.
Literally skipped all the important parts, lol
This was so painful to watch. From disassembly, especially to reassembly. There is supposed to be very minor side to side play but that's another story. Please get a professional to do it next time.
Well the turbo worked very well and still does so all your comments about me doing it wrong are stupid because obviously I did it right. Maybe you should have a professional rebuild your turbo because obviously you don't know what you are talking about.
@@SWSpeedCo I build turbochargers for a living actually 😂 just because it didn't blow up doesn't mean you did it the right way. Watching you force that spacer in was fucked and then anti-sieze on your journal bearings?
If you build turbos for a living then why are you watching videos on how to rebuild turbos? Also idk were you seen me put anti-seize on my bearings, and maybe you can enlighten me on how you install a press fit spacer without force. They don't exactly fall into place. There is more than one way to do things and the fact that the turbo didn't blow up in the 14k miles I put on it means that the way I did it worked. Therfore it is a right way to do it.