People keep conflating heatsoak meaning high IATs with Type Rs overheating on track. The intercooler will keep your IATs lower which will keep the ECU from pulling power, but it will do nothing to prevent the car from overheating on track; if anything, it will make it overheat sooner as you'll be making more power.
Hey Mike! I finally got my RV6 DP on. I also heat taped the intake pipe, custom cut the heat shield next to the turbo and heat taped that, installed the Mishimoto intake and heat taped the outside and cool taped the inside. It made the car come alive with a stage 1 can tune. My front pipe will be here in a couple weeks. I can't wait. I used your intake video for installing by the way. I got to order motor mounts this week. Here's a little tip, not tuning related. If you take some Mothers aluminium polish and polish the air scoop under the hood back towards the firewall, it cleans up really good and you get almost a mirror finish on it. It gives it a real nice look when you open the hood and retains the stock look.
@@GridZilla I took my time and took a couple weeks to do it. I have to update my tune for the updated changes and will most likely be done this weekend. The car is just a lot more fun and it motivates you to push it closer to red line to hear the cool blow off noises. Haha Your videos have been helpful. Enjoy your holiday.
Great video as always, helped me make my mind up on what intercooler to order... Mishi... is on its way along with scorpion red power sports cat and full exhaust system.. 🇬🇧
At the Hasport Eibach meet in Socal I bought some raffle tickets and won the full Hasport engine mount kit. Today I installed the rear mount 62A kevlar infused bushing version to see improvement that does to the drivability of my CTR. Still plan to get the catted RV6 dp and aftermarket exhaust. Btw fyi Mishimoto cai just got CARB approved so contact them for your CARB sticker! 😀
Calilaker CAGLS I heard about the Mishimoto CARB thing. Great pick up on the Hasport mounts. The driveability doesn't bother me one bit. I've got a few miles on my mount now. It definitely got a little softer after 1000 miles.
Michael Baxi Media I’ll drive around for a couple weeks and see how I like it. I don’t know if I’ll install the rest of the mounts because mine’s a daily and the wife is NVH sensitive and we take road trips to Vegas. If I start drag racing at the track I may consider it. It may also help in a track road course. I only notice NVH from taking off from a stop. After that in the driving rpm range it disappears.
Calilaker CAGLS I noticed the same thing. Cold starts and initial roll from a stop. I'll be tracking my car which was my main motivation for the rear mount. I daily my car too. I think you are smart to go with the rear mount first. Unless it becomes a weekend/track only car, going with the full mount kit might me a little too much.
awesome build bro! im currently debating on the rv6 or prl down pipe, looking forward to your review. Did you have similar issues removing the downpipe that others have had with the bolt being seized to the turbo?
I would have been very interested to see and learn more about the hood/bonnet on the middle Type R. I visually tend to prefer the vents on either side rather than one in the middle. I guess it's better for cooling too? FK8 owner here.
Intercooler is a given so no hesitation on that. Most people run the PRL because it's less expensive and uses stock pipes. I went with Mishimoto because it is larger (Can handle more future mods), It's different because most don't have it, attention to detail is as good as it gets and uses their own pipes. Downpipe was also a given just wasn't sure catted or not, Turbo blanket is a must to help with heatsoak. Only one I wasn't sure about was the Rear engine mount but after installing I would now say its a must if you are full bolt on like my Type R now is.
@@tylert1762 Def go with the softest one to start. Unless you are only tracking the others are pretty harsh. I have buddies that track almost every weekend and even they went with the 62A Hasport
Yeah I'll have another video on a closer comparison coming up. I heard that from a few people already but I'm here to test things out for you guys! lol Thanks for watching
You not worried getting sent to the ref? No task OD task force targeting the CTR up North? I plan to do exhaust first in case I get sent to the ref to get certified under 95db, then install all the illegal shit after.
Calilaker CAGLS there is always that risk. I'll be making more changes soon but no matter what you could be sent to the ref even if the car is 100%stock. Part of the reason I'm doing this too is to figure out how close to the legal limit I can get
@@calisti555 I haven't encountered any run ins yet *Knocks on wood* but yes I believe it has settled down because AB390 is about to revert "Non fix" part of AB1824 so they aren't as gung ho about pulling everyone over.
Another great video cant wait to see your review on this bad boy. I would suggest using the base map tune for your new bolt ons until you get a custom tune cause even the base base tunes will give you that extra power
The Truth oh yeah I already reflashed with the canned Ktuner tune for Downpipe mod. Had to otherwise the car would throw a code. Have dynoed yet but I can tell you the car is getting fast as hell. I need suspension and stickier tires but that rear engine mount helped a lot.
Michael Baxi Media haha yea fosure man. What kind of suspension are you looking at? Are you going do full coil overs or springs? I have swift springs and i love it, might go coil overs once theres a good brand that still utilize the driving modes
Did you use K tuner for CEL on downpipe? I’m thinking to get the catted Rv6 downpipe. Not sure how the CEL situation is now with other owners as I keep reading both PRL or RV6 catted downpipes have CEL issues Are the catted Rv6 not ceramic coated on the “inside?”
Love Like a Hurricane there's always a risk of getting a cel on any high flow cat down pipe. RV6 maybe a little less so because it's a 300 cell high flow cat vs prl which is a 200 cell but still highly recommend getting some kind of flash tune done to avoid the issue altogether
xdecemberguy1 transmission should be good with anything bolt on. Having been around the Type R community for a bit now my understanding is things don't start going wrong till you cross the 400 ft lbs of torque. You might get close to that number with my set up and a custom tune and 93 octane but very unlikely to hit 400.
Did you keep the 20” or you took it down to 19” or 18”. How does it handle and is it less noisy... I was thinking of getting something in the 19” range 😁
Beroicho Beroichev much better handling than the stock wheels. Went down to 18inchers. The extra meat from the width on the tires with the stiffer springs and rear sway bar are a killer combination. Turn in is super sharp. Much less understeer and you can really push hard through corners.
Shift knob and a tree air freshener for your rear view mirror 😂...but seriously warranty being "voided" is unfortunately not always a cut and dry thing. For instance, lowering your car may void the warranty on the suspension but shouldn't void the warranty on your engine/transmission and vice versa you did say an intake or exhaust. Some people will tell you that the burden is on the dealership to prove that your modification caused the failure but reality is the burden is more on us as tuners to prove that the mod DIDN'T cause the failure. General rule of thumb is if you are changing anything on the vehicle that makes it perform any differently than it did when it was stock then that section of the vehicle warranty is voided.
I never knowen a honda type r to ever get hot 🙈 it could be because uk always cold lol or could be because were on a higher octane like 98 or 99 so its tued more power and runs sweeter
Scott Wainwright cooler weather definitely helps. Higher octane doesn’t necessarily help because the engine is also producing more power and thus generating more heat. Overheating only happens on demanding race circuits and only of the vehicle is being pushed to its limits.
European ron ratings are different from US octane ratings 98 ron = 93 US octane We can easily mix 1.5 gallons of E85 with our 91 octane to get 93ish octane on stock eco - or just go e30 for even more octane. Engine temp is mostly from heat within the engine/running leaner/small radiator Koyo rad helps alot to strip heat from the coolant.....fattening up the mixtrue helps too....ethanol cools the mix as well. Vented hood helps even more - Mugen makes a beautiful one as does Varis
@@TheFK8Life I use 99 octane 95 not good uk 🇬🇧 going mad because it not good for cars they don’t care because not there money 💰 and get less miles so not happy
Build the block b4 it blows up, i own a 2018 ctr, fbo e85 and didn’t last long by just saying it only lasted 4.3k miles. My insta is @kiko_ctr if you got any questions
John Nickel CTRs don't have Turbo manifolds because the stock turbo bolts directly to the engine block. So all you have are a downpipe, front pipe and turbo inlet
Michael Baxi Media no shit? I was about to clown claiming “full bolt on” means manifolds too, but I just ate crow. Clean car, by the way. I really want one
John Nickel yeah man. Only thing left I can add before upgrading the internals are NOS and some kind of E85 tune if there ever is one with the stock injectors.
Michael Baxi Media Is there no intake manifold, too? I think E85 would be awesome. What kind of numbers do you have already and what turbos bolt right up?
PuR3 GuaP after these mods I was making around 330whp. 260ish was stock whp. Keep in mind every dyno is different. The change from stock to modded is what's important
MePlusToo I had another comparison picture in one of my other videos comparing side by side downpipes but thank you for the thought and thanks for watching!
People keep conflating heatsoak meaning high IATs with Type Rs overheating on track. The intercooler will keep your IATs lower which will keep the ECU from pulling power, but it will do nothing to prevent the car from overheating on track; if anything, it will make it overheat sooner as you'll be making more power.
How right you were
Hey Mike! I finally got my RV6 DP on. I also heat taped the intake pipe, custom cut the heat shield next to the turbo and heat taped that, installed the Mishimoto intake and heat taped the outside and cool taped the inside. It made the car come alive with a stage 1 can tune. My front pipe will be here in a couple weeks. I can't wait. I used your intake video for installing by the way. I got to order motor mounts this week.
Here's a little tip, not tuning related. If you take some Mothers aluminium polish and polish the air scoop under the hood back towards the firewall, it cleans up really good and you get almost a mirror finish on it. It gives it a real nice look when you open the hood and retains the stock look.
jim payne Wow great work! I wish I had the patience to apply great tape 😂 bet the car feels great now.
@@GridZilla I took my time and took a couple weeks to do it. I have to update my tune for the updated changes and will most likely be done this weekend. The car is just a lot more fun and it motivates you to push it closer to red line to hear the cool blow off noises. Haha Your videos have been helpful. Enjoy your holiday.
jim payne yeah my mpg hasn't been the greatest wanting to hear the engine spin up. Too much fun. Congrats on progress!
Great video as always, helped me make my mind up on what intercooler to order... Mishi... is on its way along with scorpion red power sports cat and full exhaust system.. 🇬🇧
Earth Dreams UK beautiful setup. Congrats!
Earth Dreams UK go through my Hondata vs Ktuner videos. 3 parts 😉
At the Hasport Eibach meet in Socal I bought some raffle tickets and won the full Hasport engine mount kit. Today I installed the rear mount 62A kevlar infused bushing version to see improvement that does to the drivability of my CTR. Still plan to get the catted RV6 dp and aftermarket exhaust. Btw fyi Mishimoto cai just got CARB approved so contact them for your CARB sticker! 😀
Calilaker CAGLS I heard about the Mishimoto CARB thing. Great pick up on the Hasport mounts. The driveability doesn't bother me one bit. I've got a few miles on my mount now. It definitely got a little softer after 1000 miles.
Michael Baxi Media I’ll drive around for a couple weeks and see how I like it. I don’t know if I’ll install the rest of the mounts because mine’s a daily and the wife is NVH sensitive and we take road trips to Vegas. If I start drag racing at the track I may consider it. It may also help in a track road course. I only notice NVH from taking off from a stop. After that in the driving rpm range it disappears.
Calilaker CAGLS I noticed the same thing. Cold starts and initial roll from a stop. I'll be tracking my car which was my main motivation for the rear mount. I daily my car too. I think you are smart to go with the rear mount first. Unless it becomes a weekend/track only car, going with the full mount kit might me a little too much.
Mike what do you do for work? You are ballin my friend. Mad respect ✊
I read and found out in the comments. Thanks for the content brother, good stuff.
That blue one looks mad aggressive!
Kseries Honda is a track beast too
Nice upgrades fella. From UK just had my fk8 6mnth no mods yet.
Jason Boyle blasphemy! 😂 just kidding. These are incredible cars right out of the box. Enjoy! And thanks for watching.
awesome build bro! im currently debating on the rv6 or prl down pipe, looking forward to your review. Did you have similar issues removing the downpipe that others have had with the bolt being seized to the turbo?
AndrewIRL zero issues. Those issues really only come up on higher mile cars. I barely have over 3,000 miles on mine. 😂
I would have been very interested to see and learn more about the hood/bonnet on the middle Type R. I visually tend to prefer the vents on either side rather than one in the middle. I guess it's better for cooling too? FK8 owner here.
jblamires That's the Seibon carbon fiber hood. Yes it is better for cooling which is what Miguels mods are all about.
@@GridZilla thanks for the info and I look forward to more videos.
Also I would install one mod at a time so you can see if you like it and you know what affects what
Intercooler is a given so no hesitation on that. Most people run the PRL because it's less expensive and uses stock pipes. I went with Mishimoto because it is larger (Can handle more future mods), It's different because most don't have it, attention to detail is as good as it gets and uses their own pipes. Downpipe was also a given just wasn't sure catted or not, Turbo blanket is a must to help with heatsoak. Only one I wasn't sure about was the Rear engine mount but after installing I would now say its a must if you are full bolt on like my Type R now is.
@@GridZilla I'm interested in rear motor mount but not sure what strength rating.
@@tylert1762 Def go with the softest one to start. Unless you are only tracking the others are pretty harsh. I have buddies that track almost every weekend and even they went with the 62A Hasport
Oh dang you're in the bay too? I'm local as well
DJ nice! I’m on the Facebook NorCal CTR group
bro i would recommend the rv6 high flow! that catless dp will smell bad carbon inside the car..
Yeah I'll have another video on a closer comparison coming up. I heard that from a few people already but I'm here to test things out for you guys! lol Thanks for watching
No it's not bad at all
Serious question, What do you do for work you dont mind me asking? I would love to be able to afford 2 downpipes lol.. nice build btw
lol I sell cars for a living. Luxury Brand. I do plan on selling the Downpipe i'm not going to use so I figured it would be worth the risk :)
Michael Baxi Media Let me know which one you’ll get rid of I may want to buy it.
@@calisti555 Will do
You not worried getting sent to the ref? No task OD task force targeting the CTR up North? I plan to do exhaust first in case I get sent to the ref to get certified under 95db, then install all the illegal shit after.
Calilaker CAGLS there is always that risk. I'll be making more changes soon but no matter what you could be sent to the ref even if the car is 100%stock. Part of the reason I'm doing this too is to figure out how close to the legal limit I can get
Michael Baxi Media Are they still actively sending to the ref in your area or has it settled down a bit?
@@calisti555 I haven't encountered any run ins yet *Knocks on wood* but yes I believe it has settled down because AB390 is about to revert "Non fix" part of AB1824 so they aren't as gung ho about pulling everyone over.
Another great video cant wait to see your review on this bad boy. I would suggest using the base map tune for your new bolt ons until you get a custom tune cause even the base base tunes will give you that extra power
The Truth oh yeah I already reflashed with the canned Ktuner tune for Downpipe mod. Had to otherwise the car would throw a code. Have dynoed yet but I can tell you the car is getting fast as hell. I need suspension and stickier tires but that rear engine mount helped a lot.
Michael Baxi Media haha yea fosure man. What kind of suspension are you looking at? Are you going do full coil overs or springs? I have swift springs and i love it, might go coil overs once theres a good brand that still utilize the driving modes
The Truth plan on going swift springs and rear sway bar to start
Michael Baxi Media nice man 😎👍🏽
hello, you must to film without shaking. that said, beautiful cars. sorry for my english.
Baron Dhonneur appreciate the feedback and thanks for watching!
Did you use K tuner for CEL on downpipe?
I’m thinking to get the catted Rv6 downpipe. Not sure how the CEL situation is now with other owners as I keep reading both PRL or RV6 catted downpipes have CEL issues
Are the catted Rv6 not ceramic coated on the “inside?”
Love Like a Hurricane there's always a risk of getting a cel on any high flow cat down pipe. RV6 maybe a little less so because it's a 300 cell high flow cat vs prl which is a 200 cell but still highly recommend getting some kind of flash tune done to avoid the issue altogether
Curious if dyno’d what the difference in HP would be between the hi flo RV6 and the catless? Any thoughts
As am I. That is definitely going to be a video.
With the tune, upgrade parts, ect..Do you need to upgrade the transmission also, or is it strong enough.
xdecemberguy1 transmission should be good with anything bolt on. Having been around the Type R community for a bit now my understanding is things don't start going wrong till you cross the 400 ft lbs of torque. You might get close to that number with my set up and a custom tune and 93 octane but very unlikely to hit 400.
I just took delivery of those TA wheels from Decampo 😎
Wheels are so nice in person. Grats!
Did you keep the 20” or you took it down to 19” or 18”. How does it handle and is it less noisy... I was thinking of getting something in the 19” range 😁
Beroicho Beroichev much better handling than the stock wheels. Went down to 18inchers. The extra meat from the width on the tires with the stiffer springs and rear sway bar are a killer combination. Turn in is super sharp. Much less understeer and you can really push hard through corners.
Great! Can you post your specs for the wheels and tyres you use to have it as reference 🙂
Beroicho Beroichev specs and video here 😁 ruclips.net/video/teDgtsbw9kA/видео.html
Michael, I am interested in the catted DP if you want to sell..
Good video as always.
jim payne will let you know for sure 👍🏼
It's funny I was gonna ask the same thing lol but yea I'm also interested
What can you do before you void warranty on your type r I just ordered my 2019
Shift knob and a tree air freshener for your rear view mirror 😂...but seriously warranty being "voided" is unfortunately not always a cut and dry thing. For instance, lowering your car may void the warranty on the suspension but shouldn't void the warranty on your engine/transmission and vice versa you did say an intake or exhaust.
Some people will tell you that the burden is on the dealership to prove that your modification caused the failure but reality is the burden is more on us as tuners to prove that the mod DIDN'T cause the failure.
General rule of thumb is if you are changing anything on the vehicle that makes it perform any differently than it did when it was stock then that section of the vehicle warranty is voided.
I never knowen a honda type r to ever get hot 🙈 it could be because uk always cold lol or could be because were on a higher octane like 98 or 99 so its tued more power and runs sweeter
Scott Wainwright cooler weather definitely helps. Higher octane doesn’t necessarily help because the engine is also producing more power and thus generating more heat. Overheating only happens on demanding race circuits and only of the vehicle is being pushed to its limits.
European ron ratings are different from US octane ratings
98 ron = 93 US octane
We can easily mix 1.5 gallons of E85 with our 91 octane to get 93ish octane on stock eco - or just go e30 for even more octane.
Engine temp is mostly from heat within the engine/running leaner/small radiator
Koyo rad helps alot to strip heat from the coolant.....fattening up the mixtrue helps too....ethanol cools the mix as well.
Vented hood helps even more - Mugen makes a beautiful one as does Varis
@@TheFK8Life I use 99 octane 95 not good uk 🇬🇧 going mad because it not good for cars they don’t care because not there money 💰 and get less miles so not happy
@@scottdiver36 Our ethanol is 105 octane. for $3.50 a gallon
@@TheFK8Life wow my Honda type r would go like a rocket 🚀 on that 😂
Are you still the stock front pipe?
Eric Estrada nope. Running the Remus Front pipe
Can you confirm if the catted down pipe will pass smog?
ellbert dinoy cannot confirm as I haven’t yet had to smog the car.
Damn that’s so nice!! If u ever want to donate the down pipe u don’t want I have a type r that could give it a good home lol
Build the block b4 it blows up, i own a 2018 ctr, fbo e85 and didn’t last long by just saying it only lasted 4.3k miles. My insta is @kiko_ctr if you got any questions
Kiko M. We're you running the Hondata base flex tune map? That sucks bro
What manifolds are you running?
John Nickel CTRs don't have Turbo manifolds because the stock turbo bolts directly to the engine block. So all you have are a downpipe, front pipe and turbo inlet
Michael Baxi Media no shit? I was about to clown claiming “full bolt on” means manifolds too, but I just ate crow. Clean car, by the way. I really want one
John Nickel yeah man. Only thing left I can add before upgrading the internals are NOS and some kind of E85 tune if there ever is one with the stock injectors.
Michael Baxi Media Is there no intake manifold, too? I think E85 would be awesome. What kind of numbers do you have already and what turbos bolt right up?
Did you get a 1/4 mile time yet?
Viper nah not really what I'm building the car for. Just trying to lower my times on circuit.
How much power are you making??
PuR3 GuaP after these mods I was making around 330whp. 260ish was stock whp. Keep in mind every dyno is different. The change from stock to modded is what's important
I have a closeup of the Rv6 high flow cat on my IG crv_stormtrooper if you want a good reference pic.
MePlusToo I had another comparison picture in one of my other videos comparing side by side downpipes but thank you for the thought and thanks for watching!
Almost went blind, this video is quite overexposed!
nl_2 I've since then gotten a nice lense filter but yes I agree. A little bright. Thanks for watching!