2003-2007 HONDA ACCORD EX HOW TO REPLACE REAR BRAKE PADS - EASY DIY
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- Опубликовано: 28 фев 2020
- amzn.to/3chOcU9 - Brake Pads used in the video
amzn.to/2vrc9I3 - Milwaukee M12 3/8" ratchet used in the video
amzn.to/2PP7PcP - Sil-glyde Brake Grease used in the video
amzn.to/2ToaATf -GEARWRENCH Torque Wrench used in the video
amzn.to/2TaZ92d - Caliper Wind Back Tool used in the Video
Just a quick video showing how I replaced the rear brake pads on a 2007 Honda Accord EX. This was on a 4 cylinder model, but would be the same for the v6.
This would also be the same or very similar for different years of Accord as long as they are equipped with rear brake pads & rotors as opposed to the Rear Drum style brakes and shoes.
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-Dan the Fix it Man
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Song used in the video:
''Creeping Spiders" by Nat Keefe & BeatMower
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Thanks for posting this video and for getting right to the job instead of 3 or 4 minutes blabbing to the camera with a selfie stick.
Note: this video applies to EX models only. The other Honda Accord trims that come with plastic wheel covers such as LX and VP are totally different and more difficult to deal with, they come with rear break drums. I never touched any drum breaks in my life, it's a hassle.
you did a fine job the only thing I would like to add is I like to open the bleeder screw to bleed out the old brake fluid instead of pushing it back up into the master cylinder I have an old water bottle with aquarium tubbing that I use I think you know how it works anyway if you do it like this bleeding the brakes should be done afterwords and don't forget to pump the brake pedal at the end of the job also I would have cleaned the rotor off real well on both sides but that is just me
It's was a good video, thank you. Probably one of the best. I just wanted to add that the piston compression tool you used is also meant to use a wrench to hold the pressure so that you won't have to keep turning it back to tighten. I see the problem is how to hold it in place. Well without a third hand you would have to wedge the wrench into part of the suspension or frame. They really need another added tool that can specifically do that to the very assembly you're working on.
Like what you did except one thing, you did what’s called a pad slap, very dangerous because the two surfaces don’t have any grip and causes your stopping distance to increase a lot. At the least you need to have your rotors turned either with a brake lathe or a 80 grit Roloc disc in a drill. Otherwise great video
Thank you for excellent video and clear instructions. I replaced the rear pads on the one side but I’m having trouble with the other side because the calliper bolts are seized and I’m afraid of stripping the heads. Do you have any ideas? Do you know the size and thread if I need replacement bolts?
Thank you so very much.
Wow. Never thought about using that method. I used the cube that you mentioned and that was a pain. It took longer then I think Ot should take. Guess I know what tool I'm buying next lol
Thanks for posting this perfect set of instructions. Got my son and I through doing this on his car with no trouble.
I had took out that spring that sits in the bracket how can I put it back in? And is it necessary? I thought the caliper wouldn’t fit because of it but my guiding pins were seized
I’ll be doing this tomorrow morning, and your video was SUPER simple to follow and understand. Thanks!!
Super-helpful. Very clear, well-paced. Many thanks!
That was very nice. I enjoyed watching the video. I think I can do it now. Thank you.
Very informative, Thanks
easy to understand, also all parts needed
Hell yeah thanks for the video man!!!
Great work!
Great video!!!
Excellent 👍
Hi, we’re there pins between the rotor and pad separating them, or are the rear pads always in contact with the rotor?