Good message Peter, my 2006 Tacoma 2TR-FE developed the same problem and was later repaired at 120,000 miles unfortunately it was totaled in an accident just after the repair. I bought a 2023 Tacoma with the 2TR-FE and the part is now made of metal thank goodness.
Toyota replaced this with a metal pipe on all 2011 and after 2TR-FE Engines, at least here in Japan land according to my dealer. Thank god because I seen the videos to replace this.
I was amazed it doesn't seem to have been recalled even in Japan. I have a 2008 imported vehicle with 2TR-FE, and just changed this pipe for the metal one. I thought for a JDM vehicle, with their strict Shaken, it would have been mandatory.
The coolant bypass was replaced by the stainless steel upgrade, and even with a rotted bypass, it's not a "deadly" flaw. The computer will throw codes like a christmas tree before it gets catastrophic, and even at that point, the head gasket would have to blow before complete failure, and guess what? Even with a misfire, it would still take intentional misuse of probably thousands of miles before she would kick the bucket. How do I know? Numerous 22RE, 3RZ, and yes, many 2TR-FE complete rebuilds. The 2TR is the great grandchild of the 22R series, and it is the absolute most dependable 4 cylinder engine thus far. Many rock crawler builders that went SAS (that's "solid axle swap" for all you novice Yota owners) run this engine completely stock without a turbo and it has no problem chugging along a low geared, fully locked front and rear axle rock crawler rig along the frozen rocky trails of New England, Alaska, Maine, Vermont, Canada, even over in Europe, or the extremely hot trails and deserts whether in 120F weather in Death Valley, or the scorching hot sand dunes of the Middle East. Any well seasoned mechanic well versed in Toyota builds knows, the old coolant bypass was minimal. If any part would be considered "catastrophic", it would be the factory head gasket, known to go at around 130-250K miles. I don't even know why I am commenting on this, for this is old news. 🔧
@@AG-rk5hj Dont over rev the engine. If you mean as far as maintaining original factory gasket, baby the engine, don't over-rev, don't lack on maintenance ie oil changes, coolant flush and t-stat. As far as replacing the head gasket goes, stay away from the scam in a bottle magic gasket sealers, and bite the bullet and do it properly. You have to send the head out to get decked (machined and checked for cracks, as well as making sure valves are still good while it's apart) you have to use a factory genuine Toyota MLS gasket, and it's also a great time to do the cam chain hydraulic tensioner while it's apart, as well as water pump and t-stat. Typically the head gasket goes around 130-200k miles. The 2TR series is in my opinion the best dam 4 banger in the history of Toyota 4 bangers, add a turbo or super charger and even better. If you're looking for a good battery to stuff under the hood, I highly recommend going with the Optima "Yellow Top". Mine is still going strong over a decade later.
Have you ever heard of a front crank seal leak issue? Mine is currently pushing a lot of oil onto the driveway and I ordered the replacement part for it. Just have to pull the engine to get it done now. But damn it is a lot and I've never seen anything like it
@@billymays303 Yep, crank seal is typical on the 2TR, if I remember correctly it's behind the cam chain cover. I had to do mine when I did my headgasket. Pretty much all the seals and o-rings, I even did the injector cups and o-rings while I had it apart. Once you do the gasket, cam chain hydraulic tensioner, water pump and seals, you should be good for another 200k (on road) and 150k (offroad). Throw some Accel coil packs on ol' girl while she's apart. Maybe a Optima yellow top. But regardless, don't use anything other than genuine Toyota parts. 🔧
Yes, my 2007 is afflicted with this as well. Too cold to work on it in the driveway in New England this winter. Will repair in a few weeks. Been watching the coolant temp gauge like a hawk!
You explain things very well and take time to point out the exact parts / locations which sets your videos apart from others. Keep up the great videos!
I am an ASE Master Certified Mechanic with an L1. Current. I fix cars for a living. Plastic parts in cooling systems are very common. It is also really dumb. Ethyl glycol (coolant) is a plastisizer. It will always want to bond with plastic and it eventually permeates it as it tries to become one. Every plastic part has a finite life span. Good on you for catching this one and demonstrating how 'modern' cars work. I have a 2009 Tacoma single cab with the 2.7 and an A340. I tow a little camper trailer on thousand mile trips all over this country. I don't ask much from the truck because I know it's old and weak. It has almost 200k miles on it and I expect to get another 200k out of it. When this part fails I won't be surprised just annoyed. Thanks for a great video. Liked and subscribed. Also Toyota's may be simple but they are not easy to work on.
Using a non-OEM throwout bearing from a very reputable brand cost me $1500 when I had to do it again. Never again. (The bitch of it is, I’ve known about this for two decades)
I'm happy to see you revealing this kind of issue so all of us can understand it. It is sad that this upgraded part wasn't part of a recall campaign for owners. Be safe sir and keep up the good work!
Thanks for the heads up. I have an '06 model with this engine, I haven't had any coolant leaks yet but I will keep an eye on this. If i have the occasion to remove the intake I will replace this part.
Replacing this plastic coolant pipe has been on my to-do list for a while in a 2006 Tacoma with 76,000 miles, hope I can do this before it starts to leak and cause damage from overheating.
Just checked, thankfully my year 2012 Tacoma with 2tre-fe engine came factory with the metal pipe already so won’t need to replace. Thanks for the video.
You are a life saver very easy to understand when you explain things. I have the same truck my head gasket is seeping oil some times does it need to be fixed or is it okay it has alot of miles on it and I'm told to leave it alone. Tia
They used plastic because it was far cheaper than a stainless steel pipe, which had to be bent and welded on at least one end. Making that pipe took a lot of steps. Plastic can be spit out of some molding machine is a second. That stainless pipe looks like something that came off the Space Shuttle engine.
Me and my Toyota mechanics at a private shop are keeping a double eyeball watch on plastics under the hood of my 08 Tundra 2 wheel SR-5 3UR-FE with 15 years but only 61K miles. Should be interesting as time is harder on plastic than the miles.
Thank you! Actually a quite easy job.. 2 clamps, 3 bolts, a couple plugs and 3 hoses to completely remove the intake baffle. Then 2 studs, 2 nuts and one plug, to lift off the throttle body and move to rear of engine cover. Across the top 1 nut, 3 bolts, and 1 more nut. Then, through the wheel well, 2 more bolts on the bottom of the manifold. A couple more hoses and electrical plugs and the manifold is completely free to wiggle out from under everything that remains. 30 minutes to remove the entire manifold. (I've been on a crazied hunt for a vacuum leak that I FINALLY found using starting fluid! (Propane, brake clean, and water all failed to yield results)
I'd replace it on any 2TR-FR engine leaking or not. Mine blew on the freeway, cooked the engine. I have installed a sensor for a alarm so if there is no coolant circulating I will get a light and buzzer in the cab. I bought a used engine with 65K miles
VW has been using inferior plastics and when you touch them they break. And even when you don’t touch the temp sensor housing on your 1.8 T engine it falls apart from engine heat and vibrations.
Don't think the plastic air filter housing/box won't break, because they do, eventually. I bought my 2000 Tacoma 4x4 with 3RZ-FE engine brand new, and after about 17 yrs, 3 of the plastic mounting tabs that bolts the entire air box to the vehicle broke clean in half. When I totally rebuilt my 3RZ-FE engine last year, I replaced the entire air intake with a cold air intake, using a permanent dry air filter that is cleanable. I don't advise installing a cold air intake by itself because you will lose a little performance, but I also replaced my entire exhaust with a quality stainless/ceramic coated header and entire 2.5" ceramic coated stainless steel exhaust system including a new free-flowing catalytic converter. There is absolutely nothing good about plastic parts under the hood of any motor vehicle. The heat & vibration WILL cause them to fail sooner or later. The only exception is sensors/sending units, but even those must be replaced eventually. I hate plastic.
@@karobiawho6845 No, my close friend who has been a Toyota tech for over 25 yrs turned me on to one of his best friends who owns & runs the best machine shop in east/central Florida: "Brevard Cylinder Head Exchange & Machine Shop" of Merritt Island Fl. Those guys take on stuff most shops turn away, such as rare/antique aircraft heads.......but they build some of the best race engines around too. And the guy LOVES the 3RZ and 2JZ engines. I finally blew a head gasket at 374,000 miles ( or was it 376K, I would have to check my records ). The bottom end was still great, but I wanted the full compression of a new engine, so I bought a master rebuild kit from LC Engineering ( LCE ), a brand new genuine Toyota head casting, and LCE built the head with OE sized stainless Super Tech Nitride coated Inconel racing valves, stiffer valve springs, hardened keepers, and Viton valve seals. Bored it .020" over with Hastings moly rings, King main bearings and all Japanese rod bearings, thrust bearings, etc. Top quality oil pump assembly/water pump/timing chain/gears & components. Bought their balance shaft delete kit because of their trick custom oil jet that oils only the timing chain & gear, so no oil pressure wasted using the original jet. Bought their EGR delete kit too. New harmonic balancer. New knock sensor, etc etc. Also put a "double armor coated" long-tube Pace Setter header ( looks like chrome, guaranteed to never blue, chip, blister, or peel ) and LCE's entire stainless/ceramic coated 2.5" Pro-Flow exhaust system w/MagnaFlow muffler, and I already mentioned the other stuff in my previous comment. I also bought the Bilstein 4200 series shocks and MAN, it rides & drives like a sports car now. NO BODY ROLL. Takes bumps & humps better too, for off-road. Those shocks used to be around $175 each back in 2000, but you can get em nowadays brand new for under $100 each. I have already prepped, treated & painted the entire frame myself with POR 15, it had hardly any surface rust to begin with. Tom Woods custom HD drive shaft. All new Schaeffler/FAG bearings front & rear. NGK Iridium IX plugs and Magnecor wires. She's better than new now, lol. Runs like a bat out of hell with stock cams. Under the hood looks far better than it did brand new 23 yrs ago. Installed all new front and rear bumpers/trim. I'm down to minor body work, paint, and wheels now. Gotta get my seats re-done. I truly believe the only reason I wound up blowing a head gasket is because back during that horrible recession in '08, I literally couldn't afford to change the coolant to feed my family & save our home. I believe the old coolant turned acidic & started chewing away at the head gasket. Before we rebuilt it, the engine didn't burn a single drop of oil. I'm running Amsoil full synthetic in it now. This truck will outlast me now, lol.
Very similar problem on my 04 Sienna. It was a fairly easy fix, but I barely made it home when the part totally failed. Manufacturing needs to rethink rethink where they use plastic parts. I will not buy any German car, or motorcycle.
@Antoine Brosseau Good to know. I was thinking about buying a 2019 Highlander with the 4 cylinder 2.7 instead of the typical 3.5 so I was just curious. I appreciate the response!
If anyone can help would be awesome I have a 2005 Toyota hilux workmate 2tr fe and I have described it to my mate who’s a diesel mechanic and he has told me it is called a ‘sight’ it’s where the tranny connects to the motor and I can move a plastic plate about 5-7ml left and right and my hand was then covered in grease and oil
Around twice a year , I will power wash my engine and let dry . Then to liberally spray 303 Protectant all over the engine compartment and let it soak in . To help plastic parts to resist the heat and try to keep from drying out and cracking as long as possible .
Are you sure? Multiple people wrote they went back to a metal pipe in 2011. If that's true, I can't imagine they'd switch back to plastic again in 2016.
I am no engineer , but when you combine multiple parts made of different materials in the under hood environment , all bets are off . They all have different properties , such expanding and contracting with heat and cold . When mated together , they all may not get along well . Plus , most plastics may not survive the long haul . Many become brittle over time . Maybe they are just trying to get past the warranty on the cheap !
Eh I don't really see this as being a design fault. Old Toyotas with steel pipes had the same fault, just as a result of corrosion. Plastic cooling system parts happily last over 300,000 km
Plastic bits will only handle so many heat cycles. I looked at many different year Tacoma's as since I drive 400 miles or less per year I wanted simple, very few electronics, and a year that I could do the vast majority of maintenance myself. I decided on a one owner 2003 Pre-runner 3.4L that had all services performed at the same dealer with all receipts. It had all ball joint TSB/Recall completed still no valve cover gasket seeps. It has lived it's life in dry California, the factory bar code stickers are still readable on all parts under the truck. I'm sure it will out live me. Not muck plastic under the hood and with the clock being the only drain on the battery while it sits covered my cheap Autozone battery is going on 8 years.
@@howabouthetruth2157 I live in the perfect area as I can bicycle for all of my errands. I originally purchased the Pre-runner so myself and friends could load up the bikes and hit the road unload the bikes mount all of our gear on them and do some bikepacking/ camping etc. Before we could get our trips figured out I was hit by a car on a training ride. I spent 4 months in the hospital and rehab centers as I was paralyzed from the neck down and a brain injury so the truck sat for almost a year while I was working on myself. I went from 10k miles 13k the year I was hit to now around 800 per year which I'm still working on. It's a great truck that people leave notes on and want to purchase. I've considered it as just a base plain jane is all I need now but the ones I've come across are used up neglected, and over priced.I'm still working my ass off so hopefully I can get to the point where I can ride my off road bike weighted down with camping gear up in the mountains. Many recommend e-bikes no thanks I'll continue to push myself. People don't consider the extra dead weight one has to pedal when out of juice up in the mountains and 40 pounds of gear strapped to a frame. Sorry didn't mean to write an autobiography but it all ties together my location is perfect
@@djmjay2 No, that's quite alright, I enjoy reading lengthy comments so long as they are not offensive and offer me the information I was asking for. It truly saddens me to learn you were nearly killed by some motorist. I'm glad you're doing ok. Thanks for your response and best wishes to you Sir.
It is done to fail causing you to pay more $$ to Toyota. It is deliberate & when enough ppl complain it is changed to metal, but Toyota has already made BIG $$ by this point from labour costs. See how simple the truth is ? Thank you. 😁
cut the ends off new metal pipe and clamp on heater hose to make it same length. then snake it up in there from the bottom. no need to create more trouble and spend $$$ removing all that stuff on a high mileage engine. I have 50K on that repair and still going
My brother drains all "Long Life anti -freeze " from his cars says " eats through gaskets" puts the regular green anti freeze , he's been a Mechanic 35 yrs has his own shop!
Авто/Мото
Replacing the plastic return pipe with the $50 metal one was much easier than I expected. It took about 4 beers and 2 hours.
Good message Peter, my 2006 Tacoma 2TR-FE developed the same problem and was later repaired at 120,000 miles unfortunately it was totaled in an accident just after the repair. I bought a 2023 Tacoma with the 2TR-FE and the part is now made of metal thank goodness.
Thanks for including age and mileage details.
Toyota replaced this with a metal pipe on all 2011 and after 2TR-FE Engines, at least here in Japan land according to my dealer. Thank god because I seen the videos to replace this.
My 2011 still has the plastic pipe and it is leaking. So, not all 2011's.
I was amazed it doesn't seem to have been recalled even in Japan. I have a 2008 imported vehicle with 2TR-FE, and just changed this pipe for the metal one. I thought for a JDM vehicle, with their strict Shaken, it would have been mandatory.
The coolant bypass was replaced by the stainless steel upgrade, and even with a rotted bypass, it's not a "deadly" flaw. The computer will throw codes like a christmas tree before it gets catastrophic, and even at that point, the head gasket would have to blow before complete failure, and guess what? Even with a misfire, it would still take intentional misuse of probably thousands of miles before she would kick the bucket. How do I know? Numerous 22RE, 3RZ, and yes, many 2TR-FE complete rebuilds. The 2TR is the great grandchild of the 22R series, and it is the absolute most dependable 4 cylinder engine thus far. Many rock crawler builders that went SAS (that's "solid axle swap" for all you novice Yota owners) run this engine completely stock without a turbo and it has no problem chugging along a low geared, fully locked front and rear axle rock crawler rig along the frozen rocky trails of New England, Alaska, Maine, Vermont, Canada, even over in Europe, or the extremely hot trails and deserts whether in 120F weather in Death Valley, or the scorching hot sand dunes of the Middle East. Any well seasoned mechanic well versed in Toyota builds knows, the old coolant bypass was minimal. If any part would be considered "catastrophic", it would be the factory head gasket, known to go at around 130-250K miles. I don't even know why I am commenting on this, for this is old news. 🔧
stupid question, but what can be done to prolong the life of the head gasket on the 2tr?
@@AG-rk5hj Dont over rev the engine. If you mean as far as maintaining original factory gasket, baby the engine, don't over-rev, don't lack on maintenance ie oil changes, coolant flush and t-stat. As far as replacing the head gasket goes, stay away from the scam in a bottle magic gasket sealers, and bite the bullet and do it properly. You have to send the head out to get decked (machined and checked for cracks, as well as making sure valves are still good while it's apart) you have to use a factory genuine Toyota MLS gasket, and it's also a great time to do the cam chain hydraulic tensioner while it's apart, as well as water pump and t-stat. Typically the head gasket goes around 130-200k miles. The 2TR series is in my opinion the best dam 4 banger in the history of Toyota 4 bangers, add a turbo or super charger and even better. If you're looking for a good battery to stuff under the hood, I highly recommend going with the Optima "Yellow Top". Mine is still going strong over a decade later.
Have you ever heard of a front crank seal leak issue? Mine is currently pushing a lot of oil onto the driveway and I ordered the replacement part for it. Just have to pull the engine to get it done now. But damn it is a lot and I've never seen anything like it
@@billymays303 Yep, crank seal is typical on the 2TR, if I remember correctly it's behind the cam chain cover. I had to do mine when I did my headgasket. Pretty much all the seals and o-rings, I even did the injector cups and o-rings while I had it apart. Once you do the gasket, cam chain hydraulic tensioner, water pump and seals, you should be good for another 200k (on road) and 150k (offroad). Throw some Accel coil packs on ol' girl while she's apart. Maybe a Optima yellow top. But regardless, don't use anything other than genuine Toyota parts. 🔧
Yes, my 2007 is afflicted with this as well. Too cold to work on it in the driveway in New England this winter. Will repair in a few weeks. Been watching the coolant temp gauge like a hawk!
Always learning Peter , thanks as always.
You explain things very well and take time to point out the exact parts / locations which sets your videos apart from others. Keep up the great videos!
Very through explanation Peter great info
I am an ASE Master Certified Mechanic with an L1. Current. I fix cars for a living. Plastic parts in cooling systems are very common. It is also really dumb. Ethyl glycol (coolant) is a plastisizer. It will always want to bond with plastic and it eventually permeates it as it tries to become one. Every plastic part has a finite life span. Good on you for catching this one and demonstrating how 'modern' cars work. I have a 2009 Tacoma single cab with the 2.7 and an A340. I tow a little camper trailer on thousand mile trips all over this country. I don't ask much from the truck because I know it's old and weak. It has almost 200k miles on it and I expect to get another 200k out of it. When this part fails I won't be surprised just annoyed. Thanks for a great video. Liked and subscribed. Also Toyota's may be simple but they are not easy to work on.
Using a non-OEM throwout bearing from a very reputable brand cost me $1500 when I had to do it again. Never again.
(The bitch of it is, I’ve known about this for two decades)
I'm happy to see you revealing this kind of issue so all of us can understand it. It is sad that this upgraded part wasn't part of a recall campaign for owners. Be safe sir and keep up the good work!
It doesn't seem to have been recalled even in Japan. I have a 2008 imported vehicle with 2TR-FE, and just changed this pipe for the metal one.
Been driving my 1996 2rz-fe Tacoma. She just keeps on ticking! No plastic on my engine.
Never thought I would be happy to see a rusty part but now I know it’s not plastic!!
You need a laser pointer to show the exact part that you want to highlight.
It's bad for the environment
Thanks for the heads up. I have an '06 model with this engine, I haven't had any coolant leaks yet but I will keep an eye on this. If i have the occasion to remove the intake I will replace this part.
Excellent work, Peter. Thank you for the informative video my friend. Cheers. 🇨🇦🇺🇸
Replacing this plastic coolant pipe has been on my to-do list for a while in a 2006 Tacoma with 76,000 miles, hope I can do this before it starts to leak and cause damage from overheating.
Just checked, thankfully my year 2012 Tacoma with 2tre-fe engine came factory with the metal pipe already so won’t need to replace. Thanks for the video.
You are a life saver very easy to understand when you explain things. I have the same truck my head gasket is seeping oil some times does it need to be fixed or is it okay it has alot of miles on it and I'm told to leave it alone. Tia
Recall. Metal replacement. The 3.5 had a similar problem. Thanks
I did this last week on my truck. It was a nightmare but I got it done. That plastic pipe should be a recall.
They used plastic because it was far cheaper than a stainless steel pipe, which had to be bent and welded on at least one end. Making that pipe took a lot of steps. Plastic can be spit out of some molding machine is a second. That stainless pipe looks like something that came off the Space Shuttle engine.
Your detail is Appreciated
Me and my Toyota mechanics at a private shop are keeping a double eyeball watch on plastics under the hood of my 08 Tundra 2 wheel SR-5 3UR-FE with 15 years but only 61K miles. Should be interesting as time is harder on plastic than the miles.
My heater bypass pipe started leaking at 180k miles. Same engine. Same repair. Had it replaced just about a month ago
Thank you!
Actually a quite easy job..
2 clamps, 3 bolts, a couple plugs and 3 hoses to completely remove the intake baffle. Then 2 studs, 2 nuts and one plug, to lift off the throttle body and move to rear of engine cover. Across the top 1 nut, 3 bolts, and 1 more nut. Then, through the wheel well, 2 more bolts on the bottom of the manifold. A couple more hoses and electrical plugs and the manifold is completely free to wiggle out from under everything that remains. 30 minutes to remove the entire manifold.
(I've been on a crazied hunt for a vacuum leak that I FINALLY found using starting fluid! (Propane, brake clean, and water all failed to yield results)
I'd replace it on any 2TR-FR engine leaking or not. Mine blew on the freeway, cooked the engine. I have installed a sensor for a alarm so if there is no coolant circulating I will get a light and buzzer in the cab. I bought a used engine with 65K miles
Good work Herr Petr.
VW has been using inferior plastics and when you touch them they break. And even when you don’t touch the temp sensor housing on your 1.8 T engine it falls apart from engine heat and vibrations.
Did this on my taco, didn't have to remove the intake manifold, 15 minutes total time. Got the replacement metal part off eBay for about 35 bucks
How did you do it?
@@dominickmercado2284 He isn't telling the truth. I did it, it's impossible to do in 15 mins.
Are you going to bleed the coolant system after replacement?
Did they change this in later years to steel? I have a '21 with the 2TRFE
I was told this pipe was upgraded to metal in 2011. Anyone one else heard this as well?
My 2016 has the metal part. You're good to go!
Your voice keeps me up at night.
It’s like a ticking time bomb, plastic parts for such important things..
Thank you
Don't think the plastic air filter housing/box won't break, because they do, eventually. I bought my 2000 Tacoma 4x4 with 3RZ-FE engine brand new, and after about 17 yrs, 3 of the plastic mounting tabs that bolts the entire air box to the vehicle broke clean in half. When I totally rebuilt my 3RZ-FE engine last year, I replaced the entire air intake with a cold air intake, using a permanent dry air filter that is cleanable. I don't advise installing a cold air intake by itself because you will lose a little performance, but I also replaced my entire exhaust with a quality stainless/ceramic coated header and entire 2.5" ceramic coated stainless steel exhaust system including a new free-flowing catalytic converter. There is absolutely nothing good about plastic parts under the hood of any motor vehicle. The heat & vibration WILL cause them to fail sooner or later. The only exception is sensors/sending units, but even those must be replaced eventually. I hate plastic.
Did you rebuild your 3rz yourself? What was the mileage at the point of rebuild?
@@karobiawho6845 No, my close friend who has been a Toyota tech for over 25 yrs turned me on to one of his best friends who owns & runs the best machine shop in east/central Florida: "Brevard Cylinder Head Exchange & Machine Shop" of Merritt Island Fl. Those guys take on stuff most shops turn away, such as rare/antique aircraft heads.......but they build some of the best race engines around too. And the guy LOVES the 3RZ and 2JZ engines. I finally blew a head gasket at 374,000 miles ( or was it 376K, I would have to check my records ). The bottom end was still great, but I wanted the full compression of a new engine, so I bought a master rebuild kit from LC Engineering ( LCE ), a brand new genuine Toyota head casting, and LCE built the head with OE sized stainless Super Tech Nitride coated Inconel racing valves, stiffer valve springs, hardened keepers, and Viton valve seals. Bored it .020" over with Hastings moly rings, King main bearings and all Japanese rod bearings, thrust bearings, etc. Top quality oil pump assembly/water pump/timing chain/gears & components. Bought their balance shaft delete kit because of their trick custom oil jet that oils only the timing chain & gear, so no oil pressure wasted using the original jet. Bought their EGR delete kit too. New harmonic balancer. New knock sensor, etc etc. Also put a "double armor coated" long-tube Pace Setter header ( looks like chrome, guaranteed to never blue, chip, blister, or peel ) and LCE's entire stainless/ceramic coated 2.5" Pro-Flow exhaust system w/MagnaFlow muffler, and I already mentioned the other stuff in my previous comment. I also bought the Bilstein 4200 series shocks and MAN, it rides & drives like a sports car now. NO BODY ROLL. Takes bumps & humps better too, for off-road. Those shocks used to be around $175 each back in 2000, but you can get em nowadays brand new for under $100 each. I have already prepped, treated & painted the entire frame myself with POR 15, it had hardly any surface rust to begin with. Tom Woods custom HD drive shaft. All new Schaeffler/FAG bearings front & rear. NGK Iridium IX plugs and Magnecor wires. She's better than new now, lol. Runs like a bat out of hell with stock cams. Under the hood looks far better than it did brand new 23 yrs ago. Installed all new front and rear bumpers/trim. I'm down to minor body work, paint, and wheels now. Gotta get my seats re-done. I truly believe the only reason I wound up blowing a head gasket is because back during that horrible recession in '08, I literally couldn't afford to change the coolant to feed my family & save our home. I believe the old coolant turned acidic & started chewing away at the head gasket. Before we rebuilt it, the engine didn't burn a single drop of oil. I'm running Amsoil full synthetic in it now. This truck will outlast me now, lol.
Thanks.
later Toyota has new part installed. i'm glad mine came with new one.
Could you access the part from underneath?
Nope,intake manifold has to come off to access it.
Very similar problem on my 04 Sienna. It was a fairly easy fix, but I barely made it home when the part totally failed.
Manufacturing needs to rethink rethink where they use plastic parts. I will not buy any German car, or motorcycle.
here in Brazil, we have the same problem on the Hilux 2.7 vvti flex, Toyota also sells the metallic tube to replace it, no longer the plastic one
Is that the same 2.7 engine they use in the newer Highlanders?
@Antoine Brosseau thank you
@Antoine Brosseau Good to know. I was thinking about buying a 2019 Highlander with the 4 cylinder 2.7 instead of the typical 3.5 so I was just curious. I appreciate the response!
If anyone can help would be awesome I have a 2005 Toyota hilux workmate 2tr fe and I have described it to my mate who’s a diesel mechanic and he has told me it is called a ‘sight’ it’s where the tranny connects to the motor and I can move a plastic plate about 5-7ml left and right and my hand was then covered in grease and oil
Wow I guess tens of thousands of these trucks died because of this? Must be a massive worldwide lawsuit huh?
my toyta fortuner have same issue , when i ask toyota about this why they not used matel one ...they smiled....
Excellent video Petr - thank you for sharing!
Longevity was not at the top of their list...that's for sure. Also, how can they not know that plastic and heat cycles don't play nice together?
Peter is the top man.
Around twice a year , I will power wash my engine and let dry . Then to liberally spray 303 Protectant all over the engine compartment and let it soak in . To help plastic parts to resist the heat and try to keep from drying out and cracking as long as possible .
🎉🎉🎉
They put the same plastic pipe on the 16 also
Are you sure? Multiple people wrote they went back to a metal pipe in 2011. If that's true, I can't imagine they'd switch back to plastic again in 2016.
@@mickm5097 It must be 2012 models because my 2011 has the plastic one and it's cracked.
Something you would expect to see on a GM or Ford product......
I just replace the coolant bypass line on my Toyota Tacoma cost me a lot of money thanks Toyota
how much??? quite curious about it!
My 2023 is metal from the factory. I wonder when they stopped using the plastic pipe...
2011
@@jaysmith179 Oh okay, thanks. 👍
@@jaysmith179 FML! got a 2o11 with 96k with the plastic piping
Damn plastic engine parts. Phooey!
I am no engineer , but when you combine multiple parts made of different materials in the under hood environment , all bets are off . They all have different properties , such expanding and contracting with heat and cold . When mated together , they all may not get along well . Plus , most plastics may not survive the long haul . Many become brittle over time . Maybe they are just trying to get past the warranty on the cheap !
Mine lasted 11 years.🙏🏼👍
How many miles/km please?
@@Me-zo8yc 142 thousand kilometers.
@@healthybodyawesomelife5640 thank you
I know there was another tacoma four cylinder that you really liked. What was that motor? Years that the "good" four cylinder was used.
Planned obsolence
Fatal design flaw is dramatic
FORD.....found on rubbish dump. Never ending story
Eh I don't really see this as being a design fault. Old Toyotas with steel pipes had the same fault, just as a result of corrosion. Plastic cooling system parts happily last over 300,000 km
How convenient for the owner wink wink lol
Tota coma
Plastic bits will only handle so many heat cycles. I looked at many different year Tacoma's as since I drive 400 miles or less per year I wanted simple, very few electronics, and a year that I could do the vast majority of maintenance myself. I decided on a one owner 2003 Pre-runner 3.4L that had all services performed at the same dealer with all receipts. It had all ball joint TSB/Recall completed still no valve cover gasket seeps. It has lived it's life in dry California, the factory bar code stickers are still readable on all parts under the truck. I'm sure it will out live me. Not muck plastic under the hood and with the clock being the only drain on the battery while it sits covered my cheap Autozone battery is going on 8 years.
You drive less than 400 MILES PER YEAR??? Or is that a typo? ( I would guess that most healthy people walk more than 400 miles per year, lol. )
@@howabouthetruth2157 I live in the perfect area as I can bicycle for all of my errands. I originally purchased the Pre-runner so myself and friends could load up the bikes and hit the road unload the bikes mount all of our gear on them and do some bikepacking/ camping etc. Before we could get our trips figured out I was hit by a car on a training ride. I spent 4 months in the hospital and rehab centers as I was paralyzed from the neck down and a brain injury so the truck sat for almost a year while I was working on myself. I went from 10k miles 13k the year I was hit to now around 800 per year which I'm still working on. It's a great truck that people leave notes on and want to purchase. I've considered it as just a base plain jane is all I need now but the ones I've come across are used up neglected, and over priced.I'm still working my ass off so hopefully I can get to the point where I can ride my off road bike weighted down with camping gear up in the mountains. Many recommend e-bikes no thanks I'll continue to push myself. People don't consider the extra dead weight one has to pedal when out of juice up in the mountains and 40 pounds of gear strapped to a frame. Sorry didn't mean to write an autobiography but it all ties together my location is perfect
@@djmjay2 No, that's quite alright, I enjoy reading lengthy comments so long as they are not offensive and offer me the information I was asking for. It truly saddens me to learn you were nearly killed by some motorist. I'm glad you're doing ok. Thanks for your response and best wishes to you Sir.
It is done to fail causing you to pay more $$ to Toyota. It is deliberate & when enough ppl complain it is changed to metal, but Toyota has already made BIG $$ by this point from labour costs. See how simple the truth is ? Thank you. 😁
cut the ends off new metal pipe and clamp on heater hose to make it same length. then snake it up in there from the bottom. no need to create more trouble and spend $$$ removing all that stuff on a high mileage engine. I have 50K on that repair and still going
Everyone already knows about the bypass pipe on Tacoma world
I do now
My brother drains all "Long Life anti -freeze " from his cars says " eats through gaskets" puts the regular green anti freeze , he's been a Mechanic 35 yrs has his own shop!
It only "eats through gaskets" if people dont change it.