man, I wish it would be so easy. but it's not like that here in rust belt and I'm experienced DIY. let me tell you how this same process works here: started removing parts. brake shield fell apart completely. try to take off brake shield bolts, bolts rusted completely. had to drill the heads off. extract bolts impossible. will need to re thread bolts. need to order new brake shields. tries to remove the abs sensor from the hub slowly. eventually it broke off completely due to extreme rust buildup holding it in. need to order new abs sensor. taking off the hub. came out no problem with a couple of wacks. half the bearing assembly stayed on the hub. need to cut it with a grinder. now for the inner c-ring in order to remove the rest of the bearing. wire brush required in order to see it. now using snap ring pliers to get out. broke both handles of rusted out c-ring. now what to do? c-ring stuck and rusted inside. hit it with a chisel all around inside and outside nothing. sprayed lube. won't move. what to do??? move on to next thing. need to replace the lower ball joint (may as well). rusted out bolt. applied over 250ft/pounds torque. applied torch. won't move. cut the bolt holding the lower ball joint. good, came out. I spent over 3 hours on the passenger side and I haven't even taken out the bearing yet (not completely). and this is only half the story. let's see how long it will be before I remove that c-ring.
Thank you for your feedback! Unfortunately, each car requires particular replacement and everything depends on an engineering status of car parts units. Our videos are informative as to the replacement sequence. Best regards, Autodoc.
@@autodocuk yeah I mean your videos are great. all I'm saying is that the experience in rust belt here is so much different especially for older cars. when it comes to car repair, the south is heaven and north is hell.
p a Yea I’m not too thrilled my RAV4 is starting to develop a vibration when going straight and turning left, I live in Maine and your post sounds like exactly what I’m gonna go through =/
P A I drilled holes in my C clips after the ends broke off, could really get a grip on them then. Afterward, took the bare assembly and placed in baking soda and battery charger bath (electrolysis) for 4 days. Light brushing with the wire brush removed remaining rust and primed/painted. I can definitely relate to what you're talking about!!!
feel sorry for the poor guy who done all the rusty old components the night before the video was shot, with new TR ends, CV nut, etc no wonder this lad is having a sale threw PS impact on TR end nut? bravo
Boy, I only wish it were that easy! This was a cream puff job! I wish my hub bolts were on the inside behind the wheel hub- real easy to reach. Also the hub does not come out of the center well that easy. Where-ever there snow there also road salt thus rust. These conditions make removal a very hard job even with a 15 lb slide hammer. Nice easy car to work on above and good example start.
Thank you for your comment. Unfortunately, on each machine, the complexity of the replacement is individual, it all depends on the technical condition of the parts. Our videos are only informative in the sequence of replacement and to save time, we weaken some nodes earlier. Best Regards, Autodoc team.
Lol, yea it’s pretty easy on a new vehicle and every tool laid out for Ya, oh well though all in all the rav4 is generally fairly easy to work on regardless, much better than other overly engineered pieces of garbage…
Thank you for the feedback! To give you an answer, we need to know more information about your car and its configuration. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
@@firemaker22 There's more to an alignment than the tie rod (tow in /tow out), camber caster is adjusted by the 2 bolts removed from the bottom of the McPherson Strut. The lean in and out of where the 2 large bolt and nut combinations determine camber/caster. These are the very important during turns and whether the steering wheel returns to center after a turn.
Instead of music, explain each step for better and easy understanding. When you are pressing bearing, you didn't zoom in to show what and how exactly it should be pressed, video is not good.
Thank you for your feedback! Please, check more detailed tutorial by the link: cdn.autodoc.de/uploads/man_pdf/toyota/rav-4-2/front-hub-bearing/EN-How-to-replace-the-front-hub-bearing-on-TOYOTA-RAV-4-II.pdf Service book for your car. Best regards, Autodoc.
No seals or dust ring? Even WITH the seals and dust ring, our '99 Rav4 has gone through several passenger-side front wheel bearings. Everything feels smooth, and I make sure it's clean--but maybe there are microscopic irregularities in the shafts that cause the rubber seal facings to give out.
when you knock the inner hub part out of the bearing there is usually one of the bearing inner races stuck on the inner hub which needs to be cut or pulled off ! but your tutorial shows no details of this ??
The C-ring should be loosen and taken out of the hub cavity. After that the bearing is extruded. The assembly is done in reverse order with the installation of the previously demounted ring. Best regards, Autodoc.
Thank you for your comment! In general, the replacement will be the same, the only thing that may differ slightly in the design features of your car. Best Regards, Autodoc team
Thank you for your feedback! Unfortunately, each car requires particular replacement and everything depends on a technical condition of car parts units. Our videos are informative in the replacement sequence and to save the time, we unscrew or loosen some units beforehand. Best regards, Autodoc.
@@autodocuk How did you press the spindle out of the bearing? The video goes way beyond preparation. The spindles on my 04 (most are the same of that generation) are pressed into the bearing over an inch (25mm) I am honestly surprised it was drive-able with the love taps given in the video or maybe the spindle was downsized? With new hub and new bearing they are no where near so easily taken apart. I appreciate the video but skipping over difficult areas does no one favors. My difficulty is how to press out the spindle? I can drive it out with a hammer but every time, the bearing is in 2 pieces requiring the bearing race be cut with a die grinder or similar. New parts do not come apart like the video. I wish every repair was as easy as the video. I had apprehension when I saw the rotors that weren't even seated to the pads. I know you guys put a lot of effort in these videos but many of us are looking for shortcuts/methods to get the job done. Thanks!
My mechanic said that they cannot change the bearings on my 2010 Toyota because ih have AB. Said the whole hub assy needs to be replaced. Does that make sense to anyone?
Yeah this video shows a press bearing so you need to becareful not to break the abs sensor when replacing. But most modern cars use hub assemblys so they just change the hub bearing and most times it comes with an abs sensor
Thank you for your feedback! In order to answer your question we need more data about your car, we recommend contacting our support service, where our technical department will definitely cope with any task you require. Best regards, Autodoc!
Thank you for the feedback! You're right and it's better to use lubricant when pressing in a new piston. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
Thank you for your feedback! We understand that sometimes the moments of dismantling, especially the ones that are associated with threaded connections, do not look realistic in the videos, however, to save time, we have to loosen them earlier so as not to spend a lot of time on them. Best regards, Autodoc.
Thank you for your feedback! We appreciate your attention to the details. You are right and the grease should be used definetely. We will surely add this information in our new videos. Stay home and stay tuned with us! Best regards, Autodoc Team!
Thank you for your feedback! We appreciate your attention to the details. You are right and the grease should be used definetely. We will surely add this information in our new videos. Stay home and stay tuned with us! Best regards, Autodoc Team!
Thank you for the feedback! We are currently working on creating a wider range of tutorials including those that you mentioned. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
Thank you for your valuable clarification, we understand that mistakes were made during the replacement, in new videos we have already corrected all the nuances and are trying to show replacements using specials tool and torque wrench in compliance with all rules and regulations. AUTODOC
Great post love putting in the size of wrenches and sockets be shown.
We have already fixed a number of such problems in our new videos and we will be glad if you rate the new videos.
Very good video! I was going to replace the bearings myself, but after seeing this video I will probably take my car to my mechanic.
We are glad that this video was useful to you!
I know Im kinda off topic but does anyone know of a good place to stream newly released tv shows online?
@Axton Michael Flixportal :D
@Xzavier Andre Thanks, I signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :) I appreciate it!!
@Axton Michael Glad I could help :)
Thanks for the Post! Easy to follow instructions, and excellent video quality. Best I've seen so far! Definitely a subscriber!
Thank you for the feedback! We are glad that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
This's nice and useful program. Thank you very much. Hoping to continue forever.
We are glad that you enjoy our work!
man, I wish it would be so easy. but it's not like that here in rust belt and I'm experienced DIY.
let me tell you how this same process works here:
started removing parts.
brake shield fell apart completely.
try to take off brake shield bolts, bolts rusted completely.
had to drill the heads off. extract bolts impossible. will need to re thread bolts.
need to order new brake shields.
tries to remove the abs sensor from the hub slowly. eventually it broke off completely due to extreme rust buildup holding it in.
need to order new abs sensor.
taking off the hub.
came out no problem with a couple of wacks.
half the bearing assembly stayed on the hub. need to cut it with a grinder.
now for the inner c-ring in order to remove the rest of the bearing.
wire brush required in order to see it.
now using snap ring pliers to get out. broke both handles of rusted out c-ring.
now what to do? c-ring stuck and rusted inside.
hit it with a chisel all around inside and outside nothing. sprayed lube.
won't move. what to do??? move on to next thing.
need to replace the lower ball joint (may as well).
rusted out bolt. applied over 250ft/pounds torque. applied torch.
won't move.
cut the bolt holding the lower ball joint. good, came out.
I spent over 3 hours on the passenger side and I haven't even taken out the bearing yet (not completely).
and this is only half the story.
let's see how long it will be before I remove that c-ring.
Thank you for your feedback! Unfortunately, each car requires particular replacement and everything depends on an engineering status of car parts units. Our videos are informative as to the replacement sequence. Best regards, Autodoc.
@@autodocuk
yeah I mean your videos are great. all I'm saying is that the experience in rust belt here is so much different especially for older cars. when it comes to car repair, the south is heaven and north is hell.
p a Yea I’m not too thrilled my RAV4 is starting to develop a vibration when going straight and turning left, I live in Maine and your post sounds like exactly what I’m gonna go through =/
P A I drilled holes in my C clips after the ends broke off, could really get a grip on them then. Afterward, took the bare assembly and placed in baking soda and battery charger bath (electrolysis) for 4 days. Light brushing with the wire brush removed remaining rust and primed/painted. I can definitely relate to what you're talking about!!!
is the same for 1st generation Rav4?
feel sorry for the poor guy who done all the rusty old components the night before the video was shot, with new TR ends, CV nut, etc no wonder this lad is having a sale threw PS impact on TR end nut? bravo
Boy, I only wish it were that easy! This was a cream puff job! I wish my hub bolts were on the inside behind the wheel hub- real easy to reach. Also the hub does not come out of the center well that easy. Where-ever there snow there also road salt thus rust. These conditions make removal a very hard job even with a 15 lb slide hammer. Nice easy car to work on above and good example start.
Thank you for your comment.
Unfortunately, on each machine, the complexity of the replacement is individual, it all depends on the technical condition of the parts.
Our videos are only informative in the sequence of replacement and to save time, we weaken some nodes earlier.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team.
Lol, yea it’s pretty easy on a new vehicle and every tool laid out for Ya, oh well though all in all the rav4 is generally fairly easy to work on regardless, much better than other overly engineered pieces of garbage…
Don't need to separate the ball joint from the knuckle. Just unbolt it from the control arm. It's easier.
Thank you for your feedback! Thank you for the important clarification, for our viewers this will be very useful information. Best regards, Autodoc.
Does this apply to all 2001 to 2003 models (4wd/fwd) and does this also apply to US and Canada counterparts?
Thank you for the feedback! To give you an answer, we need to know more information about your car and its configuration. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
@@autodocuk It looks identical to my US 2004 RAV4. The wheels are different but the internals are identical.
Will a wheel alignment be needed after this is done?
Thank you for the feedback! You are absolutely right, the wheel alignment is needed after this job. Best regards, Autodoc.
You arebjust disconnecting the tie rod, not removing it, so no you wouldn't necessarily need an alignment
@@firemaker22 There's more to an alignment than the tie rod (tow in /tow out), camber caster is adjusted by the 2 bolts removed from the bottom of the McPherson Strut. The lean in and out of where the 2 large bolt and nut combinations determine camber/caster. These are the very important during turns and whether the steering wheel returns to center after a turn.
Instead of music, explain each step for better and easy understanding. When you are pressing bearing, you didn't zoom in to show what and how exactly it should be pressed, video is not good.
Thank you for your feedback! Please, check more detailed tutorial by the link: cdn.autodoc.de/uploads/man_pdf/toyota/rav-4-2/front-hub-bearing/EN-How-to-replace-the-front-hub-bearing-on-TOYOTA-RAV-4-II.pdf Service book for your car. Best regards, Autodoc.
No seals or dust ring?
Even WITH the seals and dust ring, our '99 Rav4 has gone through several passenger-side front wheel bearings. Everything feels smooth, and I make sure it's clean--but maybe there are microscopic irregularities in the shafts that cause the rubber seal facings to give out.
Thank you for your comment!
Please clarify or rephrase your question and we will be able to answer or help you.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
when you knock the inner hub part out of the bearing there is usually one of the bearing inner races stuck on the inner hub which needs to be cut or pulled off ! but your tutorial shows no details of this ??
The C-ring should be loosen and taken out of the hub cavity. After that the bearing is extruded. The assembly is done in reverse order with the installation of the previously demounted ring. Best regards, Autodoc.
I have a 97 RAV4. Does this video apply or do you have another?
Thank you for your comment!
In general, the replacement will be the same, the only thing that may differ slightly in the design features of your car.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
Nothing comes apart that easy especially in North East Ohio 👿
Thank you for your feedback! Unfortunately, each car requires particular replacement and everything depends on a technical condition of car parts units. Our videos are informative in the replacement sequence and to save the time, we unscrew or loosen some units beforehand. Best regards, Autodoc.
Or Upstate NY
@@autodocuk How did you press the spindle out of the bearing? The video goes way beyond preparation. The spindles on my 04 (most are the same of that generation) are pressed into the bearing over an inch (25mm) I am honestly surprised it was drive-able with the love taps given in the video or maybe the spindle was downsized? With new hub and new bearing they are no where near so easily taken apart. I appreciate the video but skipping over difficult areas does no one favors. My difficulty is how to press out the spindle? I can drive it out with a hammer but every time, the bearing is in 2 pieces requiring the bearing race be cut with a die grinder or similar. New parts do not come apart like the video. I wish every repair was as easy as the video. I had apprehension when I saw the rotors that weren't even seated to the pads. I know you guys put a lot of effort in these videos but many of us are looking for shortcuts/methods to get the job done. Thanks!
My mechanic said that they cannot change the bearings on my 2010 Toyota because ih have AB. Said the whole hub assy needs to be replaced. Does that make sense to anyone?
Yeah this video shows a press bearing so you need to becareful not to break the abs sensor when replacing. But most modern cars use hub assemblys so they just change the hub bearing and most times it comes with an abs sensor
Thank you for your feedback! In order to answer your question we need more data about your car, we recommend contacting our support service, where our technical department will definitely cope with any task you require. Best regards, Autodoc!
that true the new rav4 2010 and beyond the hub assembly very very easy to replace.
why is there never any wheel seals installed? like on anyone videos?
Thanks for your feedback! Please clarify or rephrase your question.
No grease seals?
Thank you for the feedback!
You're right and it's better to use lubricant when pressing in a new piston.
Stay tuned and follow our latest updates.
Best regards, Autodoc.
@@autodocuk thanks, one more. RPM of gun? for this job?
Good job
We appreciate your feedback! Stay tuned for more videos! Best Regards, Autodoc Team.
Oh? Just a single love tap and the ball joints pops outta the knuckle huh?
Thank you for your feedback!
We understand that sometimes the moments of dismantling, especially the ones that are associated with threaded connections, do not look realistic in the videos, however, to save time, we have to loosen them earlier so as not to spend a lot of time on them.
Best regards, Autodoc.
Understandable. Have a great day
No antiseize around the new bearing????
Thank you for your feedback!
We appreciate your attention to the details.
You are right and the grease should be used definetely.
We will surely add this information in our new videos.
Stay home and stay tuned with us!
Best regards,
Autodoc Team!
Thank you for your feedback!
We appreciate your attention to the details.
You are right and the grease should be used definetely.
We will surely add this information in our new videos.
Stay home and stay tuned with us!
Best regards,
Autodoc Team!
Hello how to change real mounting for Toyata avensis 2l vvti 2004
Thank you for the feedback! We are currently working on creating a wider range of tutorials including those that you mentioned. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
thanks I will lean more things
Nintendo Super Mario Bros. called they'd like their clothing back and washed clean after this.
Please could you clarify your question and we will be able to assist you
AUTODOC
this looks like 2001-2005 and older if i am not mistaken
it identical to 2002 rav4; it not easy to take them apart.
How many tons is the capacity of your press?
Thank you for the feedback! Unfortunately we don't have this information. Best Regards, Autodoc.
Special puller… my special puller is my arm and a block of wood, if that don’t work it’s time for new tie rods.
Thank you for sharing your opinion!
hope is usefull
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
WHAT YEAR? WHAT YEAR? WHAT YEAR? WHAT YEAR? FORGET THE MUSIC!
Thank you for your comment! The model year is 2004. Stay tuned for more interesting videos. Regards, Autodoc!
17:32 hammered a stud with a hammer. WTF ?
This is a lock nut, it has teeth that are bent with a center punch so that the nut does not loosen
So no torque measurement of any kind.. Just wing it!
Thank you for your valuable clarification, we understand that mistakes were made during the replacement, in new videos we have already corrected all the nuances and are trying to show replacements using specials tool and torque wrench in compliance with all rules and regulations.
AUTODOC
Not even a pair of safety glasses omg this tutorial is dangerous everyone please wear eye safety wear!
Thank you for the feedback!This video is considered to be an informative one, and it is approximate. Best regards, Autodoc.
Get rid of the music!!!