Wow! Glad I came to watch this vid. Been in my house for almost 5 yrs and had no clue! Will be checking my water heater and conducting maintenance. Thank you!
OMG this was such a big help, water all over my basement, had to call out of work! I go to every home depot and lowes looking for a safety valve thinking mine is faulty, I buy a new one it does the same thing, I call my dad. He thinks there is something under the safety valve keeping water from going into the boiler. He's over the phone trying to quarterback the fix. He clearly states he's not coming over because I had the corona virus two weeks ago. I go to youtube university and come to your video and its just that my tank is full and needs to be drained. Sighhhhh..... Thanks Dude
Hello Trinity Carroll, You're welcome! A waterlogged tank is probably the most common reason why a relief valve is popping on the system. Hopefully the repair went well for you! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Thank You so much for your video! I had a problem heating up the second floor, so I followed your recommendation, checked the feed water valve and move lever several times and voila! got my boiler pressure from 2.5 lbs to 12.0lbs. Checked the radiators on second floor, the rads are working .checked my pressure again all good @ 12.6lbs. Thanks again!
Hello Egidio, You are more than welcome! You may want to bump it up a little higher when during the heating months by a few pounds. I would check the pressure periodically during the winter as the pressure will drop a little over time. Not a big issue. About once a month you will need to add a little water. I am glad everything worked out for you! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Hello ItsMarkP 94, You're welcome! I like to hear that! Congrats on getting things back to the right working order! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Thank you so much for the very helpful amd informative video. It helped me get the heat on the second floor working. I lifted the flap on the deepwater valve and the pressure built up to where it needed to be. Thanks again!
Thanks for the help. It s actually my sons house and I’ll be going there tomorrow to check it out. I’ll let you know how we make out. Also they are radiators with bleed valves not baseboard. Thanks again.
Hi, I'm learning so much from your channel. I asked a question on another video of yours, but watching this video raised another question for me. My expansion tank is much smaller than the one in this video. Can my style tank be drained, or do I need to replace mine?
Hello Know How, I would say the tank that you have is an extrol expansion tank. They contain a bladder. These tanks cannot be drained. To get you by for a short time, the pressure can be taken off the heating system by closing the feed water valve and opening the drain at the bottom of the boiler watching the gauge closely. Take it down to about 7 pounds and then pump air into the snifter valve on the end of the tank until it is around 15 pounds. You don't want to go any higher. This will hold you over for a short time. Remember the relief valve on heating systems is set for 30 pounds so you really want to keep a close eye on the air you apply. These tanks are about 1/5th the price of a 3 foot expansion tank. The full size expansion tanks lasts for decades, but have to be drained periodically (yearly I prefer) while the extrol tanks do not have to be touched. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
awesome video :D I was wondering my water is provided by a central boiler in my condo complex. Lots of townhouse style condos maybe 40 units in total. I have a split level townhouse and my baseboard heaters only work in the basement, main floor and kitchen. The Master bedroom and 4th floor heaters never turn on. I don't have fixtures shown in this video, no pressure indicator for one thing, and I am looking for the right questions to ask my tech when he comes. Any tips?
Hello xpoohx105, I would ask him this...Was wondering if the pressure in the system is high enough as my forth floor is not heating at all?This will (should) indicate to him to check that the pressure in the basement. Also ask...Do you think this loop could be air locked? One pound of pressure will rise water 2.3 feet. This is a very common problem in two story homes, so I can see this happening in a forth floor condo. I would also ask...Do you think the zone valve is operating ok? It is possible for the thermostat not to be operating properly, but it is not a common problem. So it could be one of the following...Air locked, zone valve not operating, low pressure on the entire system. Good luck! Thanks for the kind words and best of luck! Al
Hey man thanks for getting back to me. I tried to manually diagnose my issue, i set the Zone valve to manual and instantly heard the flow of water. After heating my 3rd and 4th floor to sauna levels (it's -20 outside today and i have all the windows open) i set it back to automatic and my house is still a balmy 30+ celcius inside. Radiators still giving off a lot of heat. Would this indicate a faulty zone control valve? Since my condo company is ignoring my phone calls and no one will service it without permission from the board I am sort of low on options.
Hello xpoohx105, If you manually set it and it heats the floor for you; the problem lies in the zone valve. If it is staying high then it is not closing all the way for you. You should find a shut off on the other end of the loop that you can turn off or throttle back to somewhat control the water flow for you. Look behind the radiator covers; it should be hiding somewhere there. They should make this repair for you as it is costing them money to heat the water. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the heat. Al
Hi Al, it's RJ I'm doing a whole house abandon of my slab heat piping. Too many leak occurrences and I've endured my LAST cold Winter in my house! With PEX, I know I need use the O2 barrier style, but do you think I should use 3/4 for all the supply and return loops (seeing that my baseboard in/out are 3/4)? And- do I need to replace each complete baseboard if they are in good shape? They are decades old. Thank you!
Hello RJ, Sounds like a little project ahead of you! You are right with the O2 barrier when using pex on heating. You can use 1/2" pex for the runs to the baseboards. With high efficiency pumps circulators you will have no issues. As far as the baseboard go they generally last for a very long time as they don't have any oxygenated water flowing through them so they where very little. They may last you for another number of decades. Here comes the but...If it was me; I would change them out to be safe. If you are planning on being in the home hopefully for many more decades; you will have no worries. The new ones will look very sharp as well. I always place a piece of 1 by 4 strapping on the floor on either end of the baseboard and screw them on the wall. Hope this helps...Any other questions feel free to ask. I'll get back to you as soon as I can. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hello, thank you for your video, My daughter recently moved into a home with hot water heat boiler. It works wonderful, but we were recently told she has to drain all the water out of the system in the summer months when not in use. Is this really necessary? We did not do that the first summer and had no problem relighting the system for this winter.
Hello Chris, You're welcome! No need of draining the system. Did they give you any reason why? I have never heard of that before. Does the boiler maintain temperature during the months when heat is not required? Is it a cast iron boiler or steel? Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
I have a spirovent to get air out of the pipe for my hydronic boiler but still some of my baseboard convectors still don't get hot. Do I still have to manually bleed the convector ? Question 2# I have a 50 year old boiler where the circulator pump is connected to the return line.I read today's modern hydronic boiler has the circulator pump connected at the supply line for better hot water circulation to the convectors.Can I do that with my old boiler ?
Hello Nathan, You will still to bleed the radiation manually. The air vent will help remove air, but the water will not get pulled around if there is a lot of air in the loop. This is the reason you are not getting heat in some rads. Basically air locked.. As far as the pump goes; I only hook them on the return to the boiler. The water will be pulled around regardless of where it is installed. I have seen a few installed on the supply, but it really doesn't make any difference.I don't believe it gives any better circulation on the supply as the pump can only pull around a certain amount of water regardless of where it is located. Thanks for commenting and enjoy our week! Al
great vid！I recently bleed my heating system, and made those radiators getting hot which used to be cold. However the hot rads turned out to be cold! Don’t know why..... Tried bleeding and balancing that rad, but nothing work.......
Hello Winter Lu, I take it you used the method in the video to purge them. You may want to try again and keep an eye on your pressure while you purge. Keeping it fairly constant make s a difference. So having the pressure above ten pounds is very important. That is where I lift the lever on the pressure reducing valve and watch the gauge on the front. How many zones do you have on the system? Are the rads that are cold on the second floor? Check the pressure on the system to make sure you have at least twelve pounds psi. When it is hot you should be between 18 and 20. Thanks for commenting and let me know how you get along...Al
Hello my Friend... Question: I have an oil boiler....Downstairs heat is fine..2nd floor no heat. Even when i open the 2nd floor zone valve the pipe gets hot passed the zone valve all the way up to the ceiling but no heat upstairs at all. Pressure is 25psi. Any suggestions??
Hello Tariq Khan, From the information that you have given me I would suggest purging the system. With 25 pounds pressure on the system which is a little high; the loop has air in it and the pump will not pull the water around with air in it. It is called air locked. Happens quite often. In this video I purged the loop. First shut the boiler off. Then you must manually open the zone valve, close the return valve and open the drain valve on that loop. Attach a hose to the valve and place it in a bucket. Watch your pressure. As it drops lift the small lever on the pressure reducing valve. This will send water into the system very fast...so you don't want it going above 20 pounds tops while purging. Run the water into the bucket and wait until there are no more bubbles appearing. Once this has taken place...drop your lever back to its regular position. Turn off the drain valve, open the return valve and put the zone valve in automatic position. There should be no more than 20 pounds pressure in the system as the pressure relief valve is set for 30 PSI, If you have any further questions feel free to ask. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
Thank you for the video! i can get pressure on the boiler doing this but the pressure goes back to 0 after a few hours. I also have a shut off valve between the reducing valve and the boiler. This is normally in the closed position and the lever on the reducing valve is normally up. Does this sound correct?
Hello isaacweesner8188, You're welcome! The lever should be in the down position on the pressure reducing valve and the valve should be always open. This will give you 12 pounds pressure in the system. This is when all things are working properly. The pressure should never go to zero unless you have a leak in the system. Do you have any in floor heat in your home? When you leave the valve open how long does it take to get the pressure up in the system and can you hear the water running for some time? Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you can. Al
@@TheOldkid888 Hey Al, no floor heat. It takes a few seconds for the pressure to start moving upwards. I did a full purge of the system yesterday because the second floor was completely locked up. No I have water running everywhere and the second floor is warm at least. When I opened the lever it took about a minute to get to 15 psi.
Hello isaacweesner8188, That sounds about right as far as the pressure is concerned. You should always leave the valve open to the system to allow the PRV to keep a constant pressure which is needed. It's very common to find a pressured drop if the valve is turned off. The lever should down on the PRV. It maybe just a matter of unscrewing the nut that the lever is attached to so that it will drop down. Don't be afraid of unscrewing the lever/nut as nothing will happen as you turn it off. Over time if the valve is turned off to the system, the reheating of the water will deaden it cause the pressure to drop. Therefore it is very important to leave the water shut to the PRV open at all times. If it is not the pressure will drop over time and when the water is heated it will not rise up to where it is needed such as the second floor. Every foot of rise requires .434 pounds to get to that height. The second floor being roughly 13 feet above the boiler requires 13 x .434 pounds to reach that level. Roughly 5.6 pounds. So your system should be operating when hot between 18 and 20 pounds. If your system is down to zero psi the water will never reach that height regardless of being pumped or not. Hope this helps! Thanks for commenting and enjoy the holidays! Al
My tank looks like a 3 gallon tank and doesn't have a drain directly on it. Theres only one pipe that goes up into it from below with a steam valve thingy in the middle of it and another valve that spits out the water when theres too much.. is that where im supposed to drain it from?. Theres also the screw on top the tank
Hello Vic, Is your tank about a foot in diameter and a foot long? If so, you will need to replace it if the relief valve is blowing off. The tank contains a bladder and a pinhole has come in it some where. These are basically throw a ways. They cannot be repaired. They are not expensive as compared to the old style expansion tank that were 36 inches long and a foot in diameter that could be drained. So the tank you would be looking for if I have this correct is an Extrol tank. Be careful when you are changing it. The old tank will be full and a little heavy. Be sure to put a hold back on the fitting that the tank screws into and make sure you close the valve in the pipe that the tank sits on. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the repair! Al
Hello Adam, This system would be about 30 years old. You would have similar parts on your system as the ones in the video. Thanks for commenting and get back to me if you have any more questions....Al
This actually looks a lot like my set up. Unfortunately I know the button on the reset button has been pushed many times. What do I do in that situation? I know that it comes on when the water heats up would that burn off the oil? If not how dangerous is it? Thanks
Hello Candace, You are talking about the red reset burner on the burner itself. That is a sign that the burner needs to be serviced. It will burn a lot more oil then it needs to to heat the water. You should get an oil technician to change the nozzle, filter and clean the inside of the boiler itself. It is well worth the money to do this as it will save you much bigger dollars than you will spend on the service. You should only press it once to reset it. If you are doing it more often there is a sign that something is wrong. You can actually flood the inside of the boiler with oil which can cause serious problems. Not trying to scare you, but this is should be addressed asap. They should also be able to easily solve the air or pressure problem. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Hello Candace, Sorry I missed your response on the two story. The problem is in your pressure. A simple lift of the lever on the pressure regulator will increase the pressure. It is a little brass lever. You should check the boiler about every month throughout the winter to make sure the pressure doesn't drop. This is what is happening with your system every year. A simple lift of the lever and allow the pressure to rise above 12 pounds will force the hot water to rise into the second floor. Hopefully the oil burner tech will fix this problem for you. Let me know how you get along. Al
I have a single zone system in a two store home. First floor heats fine. The second floor has four radiators. Only radiator 3 gets hot. Any suggestions?
Hello Glenn, The first place I would look is the tridicator (gauge) on the front of the boiler. If the pressure is not high enough in the system; the second floor will not generally heat well. The pressure should be at least 12 to 15 pounds. It can be increased by lifting the lever on the feed water valve slowly. You want to make sure the pressure does no go above 15 pounds. Keep an eye on the gauge as you increase the pressure. Are these cast iron rads with air bleeders on them or are they baseboard radiation? Get back to me when you get a chance....Al
TheOldkid888 al, hope you get this. That was exactly the problem - low pressure. Now it works fine. Now I have a new problem. I have to replace a 40 gallon indirect hot water heater. Can you give me a “rough” idea of what that might cost? Thanks
Hello Glenn, I really don't like giving prices out as it is hard to say what companies charge. Labor prices vary greatly from city to city and country to country. All depends on what part of the globe you live....That being said...there was a plumber who I know charged three times the rate of all the plumbers in my area, so the price can vary considerably. It is roughly half a days work. Best advice I can give is to call around and ask what it will cost for the installation. Also ask about warranty. I don't know if this helps, but it may give you a rough idea. You can look prices up on line for the tank and it will give you an estimate of what the tank is worth. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the repair! Al
I have a two story house. I get heat on all my heaters downstairs but only get heat on 1 heater upstairs. I checked my pressure gauge on my heater and it at 4psi. Is that low? What can I do to increase pressure. Is that the issue?
Hello geejr, I believe you are correct. Sounds to me that the pressure is too low.. If you look at the system; you will see a pressure reducing valve. A brass looking valve. It will have a leaver on top. Simply lift the upward and you will hear water starting to flow into the system. Watch the gauge closely. You want it up around fifteen pounds. That should allow the water to get up into the second floor. Thanks for commenting and let me know how you get along.....Al
Hello geejr Yes. It is set for 14 pounds and should stop at that point. No worries. I think you should be all set. Good luck. Any issues...get back to me and we will see if we can figure it out.....Al
Hello Manuel, I don't think of it many times until the job is complete. In the video I showed how to remove the air from the heating system. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hello 50JETHRO, I would check the pressure on the gauge and see if you have at least 10 pounds pressure. If it needs more pressure you can simply lift the lever on the pressure reducing valve and raise the pressure to about 12 to 15 pounds. Do you have a separate zone valve for the second floor and does it open. Check this by making sure the lever on the side of the zone valve slides back and forth easily. Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance! Al
THANK YOU AL, I HAVE 30 PSI OVER 190 PSI. THE ZONE VALVE IS OPEN, THERE IS ONLY ONE VALVE! I CANNOT FIND THE FEED WATER VALVE LIFT LEVER! I ONLY HAVE A FAST FILL VALVE? STILL NO HEAT, BUT THE FINS ARE GETTING A LITTLE WARM!
Hello 50JETHRO, You want to reduce the pressure in the system to 18 pounds max. The relief valve on the boiler is set at thirty pounds; so you want to be less than 20 to be safe when the system is hot. Check the pipe coming back from the return pipe on the first zone and make sure it is hot. Just wanting to make sure the circulator is working. That is something you want to look at. Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance. Al
Wish I had seen this video a day ago before paying $100 for the guy to flip the lever to get heat up to the 2nd floor. What's weird is now the 2nd floor has heat, but no longer the 1st floor. Pressure is currently 18-19 and it goes to about 22 when turned on. Should I release some water to bring the pressure down?
Hello Jaygue K., The pressure should be around the 18 to 22 pound range when it is hot. As long as it stays away from 30 you are set. No worries at 22. You may have to purge the system to remove any air on the first floor. Do you have cast iron radiators or baseboard heat? It sounds like it could be air locked if you are not getting any heat on the first and the second is fine. Thanks for commenting an get back to me when you get a chance....Al
@@TheOldkid888 I'm in NNY so we're getting slammed, I'm just hoping something hasn't frozen in the time. I've gone to both base board pipes and unscrewed the little purge valves, all I got was frigid water that trickled down to nothing. Down stairs the pipe that I'm pretty sure feeds the first floor goes from hot to warm to cold the closer it gets to the wall. Again, the first floor was fine, and up top didn't get any heat. Flipped the switch (I'm assuming to build up pressure) and now the 2nd floor gets hot water but it seems like the 1st floor is being bypassed, except that there is one room on a separate pipe that is getting hot water. Also, it is pushing upwards to 30psi now, should I pour out some water from the blow out valve?
Baseboards are freezing cold downstairs now, and hot upstairs. I think I've identified the line that feeds the first floor and it goes from hot to warm to cold just before disappearing. I'm worried about a freeze because I'm in NNY and we're getting slammed. But it also doesn't make sense because the only fix yesterday was adjusting the valve to get more pressure up to the 2nd floor. I bled them, all was well then I noticed downstairs was not heating. I opened the bleed nozzles on them and all that came out was cold water and then it trickled to a stop. Also, the pressure is up to 30psi... do I relieve some pressure by purging water from the blow out valve or from the base boards themselves?
Hello Jayque, You will need to drain some water off the system. Any drain on the boiler should work. It sounds like a line could be frozen....Not positive without seeing it. How many zone valves do you have? When you turn up the thermostats does the lever on the bottom or top of the zone valve move all the way over from right to left or vise versa? Do you have an expansion tank or a small extrol tank on the system? An expansion tank would be about 3 feet long and a foot wide. With the pressure up to 30 pounds...there is a good chance the tank is water logged. That is the most common problem with high pressure. Get back to me when you get a chance....Al
Hello Jayque, You don't have to flip the lever on the pressure reducing valve very long. You just want your pressure around 20 pounds as you see the pressure goes up quickly. So the pressure is not getting to that loop. Turn your thermostat up and try removing air again. You may have to put a small heater of some sort in the area where the pipe goes from hot to cold. You will need to go to all the bleeders and try and get some water out of them. This is the way that you remove the air from your system by the sounds of things. I know you are getting little to no water, but make sure they are all bled and snugged back up. good luck! Get back to me when you get a chance....Al
Hello Dan, Yes they do. They are preset. Is your relief valve popping off periodically or constant flow? It could one of a few items on the system. What is the pressure currently at on the boiler. Does it only pop when the boiler is tunning? Is the expansion tank or a bladder tank on the system? An expansion tank is generally about three feet long and one foot in diameter. Bladder tank is 1 about 12 by 12. Do you have a coil in the boiler? Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance...Al
I had to replace a few baseboard heaters, and i can get water to all heaters but only hot water to one heater. It seems like the furance is not circulating the water, this heating system is a single loop system , any suggestions
hey its me again, hope all is well. I have a ? for you. one of my clients' tenants is complain about a thumping noise when the kitchen faucet is running(pex tubing). I clamped the pipes, no change. my next thought is that there is air within the line somewhere. How do I fix it? The water flows then thump and the water stops briefly. Thx again
Hello Ra I would imagine the thumping noise happens when water is interrupted somehow in the building. If it stops completely for a second then there is an obstruction somewhere. Is the water supplied by the city or is it from a well? If there was any air in the lines; it would be pushed out when the faucet was opened. Get back to me when you get a chance. Al
city water... it doesnt exactly stop. but when it thumps its like the pressure drops. i asked a friend who works in plumbing at lowes, he said it sounds like there is air in the line. whic i dont get, i assume as you sound it would be forced out when the faucet is opened
Hello Randy; Not stopping completely is a little different story. It sounds to me like water hammer. This can be caused from different sources in the building. For example if some turns a faucet off very quickly it can happen. If a toilet is flushed in the building as well as it shuts off you can get a hammer sound. Another place is the washing machine turning on and off. Solenoid valves open and close as the washer is being filled and this too can cause it to happen. It can be annoying depending on the severity of how much the pipes move which is usually the cause for the noise. Shock absorbers can be put in place to eliminate this problem. Air chambers were used years ago to prevent this from happening, but Shoktrols are used today to prevent the hammering. Sometimes it can be one item in the building that causes the problem; so hopefully this is the case for you and it can be resolved easily. I would hang around for a while and try turning a few different things on and off to see if you can find the source! Hope this helps! Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
hello. Bought new home and I have heat on the second floor and the attic but the first floor and basement theres no heat. Can pressure be the issue, or do I need to bleed the baseboard heaters on the first floor and basement. Have Gas Furnace. Really wanna correct this issue instead of paying a specialist who gave me crazy prices.
Hello John, Pressure isn't your issue. I take it you have baseboard heat and not cast iron rads. I would first start trying to purge the air from each loop. This should take care of your problem. Let me know how you get along.....Al
Hello VD, Is it baseboard radiation that you have or cast rads? I am not exactly sure without having more information, but it the rads are just warm; the circulating pump could be bad and the rads are being gravity fed. This is just a guess right now. If you take a screwdriver and put the pointed end on the pump motor and the handle end up to your ear you should hear the pump running as long as your thermostat is up as you mentioned. Also check the gauge on the boiler to see what the pressure is. It should be above 15 pounds if the system is hot. Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance.....Al
I have 2 zones and upstairs I'm getting heat only in the bathroom and on 1 bedroom but I'm not calling for heat it's a hydronic system oil burner new yorker
Hello DETAILED WHIPZ, Just to be clear...Are you getting heat in the rooms when the thermostat is turned down or are you getting no heat in the other zone? Thanks for commenting and get back to when you chance....Al
Hello Ryan, I am not a burner tech. Best advice to give you is to get a hold of one and have them look at it for you. Have you had it cleaned lately? They should be cleaned and the filter and nozzle changed every year. It could be a dirty nozzle, oil pump, contacts, aquastat etc... There are a number of reasons why it may be acting this way, but getting a professional in to do a complete cleaning will save you money. They should change the nozzle and filter along with brush and vacuum the inside of the boiler to do a proper job. It shouldn't just take a few minutes to do. I always recommend a service tech when it come to the burner. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the burner. Al
Hello Honolulu 147, Had a little thing take place as far as life goes, but should be getting back on track in the very near future. Thanks for commenting and thanks for hanging in there! Al
Hello Al I have had one problem after another regarding my home. I moved back into my home because my rent to own tenants destroyed and pilfered furniture ect. I repaired my home the best I can. My home is listed with a good realtor. I living in this home for three years now and it is not a good place or situation for me to be here any longer. Lot of quirky stuff happing here. My example; twice it was in escrow and fell out. During the home inspection the heat quit. I have had a total of 12 “Specialist” Plumber & AC’s at my home I have been without heat for over 2 mos. In other words, It’s just been a cluster of unfortunate events. The cops were involved and just all around bad mojo. I Feel I can’t break free , I really asking the universe to bring me a good buyer with a good offer asap.
Wow! Glad I came to watch this vid. Been in my house for almost 5 yrs and had no clue! Will be checking my water heater and conducting maintenance. Thank you!
Hello Raquel Guzman,
You're welcome!
Always good to keep up on yearly maintenance.
Hopefully it helps!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
OMG this was such a big help, water all over my basement, had to call out of work! I go to every home depot and lowes looking for a safety valve thinking mine is faulty, I buy a new one it does the same thing, I call my dad. He thinks there is something under the safety valve keeping water from going into the boiler. He's over the phone trying to quarterback the fix. He clearly states he's not coming over because I had the corona virus two weeks ago. I go to youtube university and come to your video and its just that my tank is full and needs to be drained. Sighhhhh..... Thanks Dude
Hello Trinity Carroll,
You're welcome!
A waterlogged tank is probably the most common reason why a relief valve is popping on the system.
Hopefully the repair went well for you!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Thank You so much for your video! I had a problem heating up the second floor, so I followed your recommendation, checked the feed water valve and move lever several times and voila! got my boiler pressure from 2.5 lbs to 12.0lbs. Checked the radiators on second floor, the rads are working .checked my pressure again all good @ 12.6lbs. Thanks again!
Hello Egidio,
You are more than welcome!
You may want to bump it up a little higher when during the heating months by a few pounds. I would check the pressure periodically during the winter as the pressure will drop a little over time. Not a big issue. About once a month you will need to add a little water.
I am glad everything worked out for you!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Thanks a ton! Nice and simple fix!
Hello ItsMarkP 94,
You're welcome!
I like to hear that!
Congrats on getting things back to the right working order!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Great video, thanks for sharing
Hello deanmartin1966;
Thanks very much for the kind words!
You are more then welcome!
thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Thank you so much for the very helpful amd informative video. It helped me get the heat on the second floor working. I lifted the flap on the deepwater valve and the pressure built up to where it needed to be. Thanks again!
Hello joji,
You're welcome!
I am glad it worked out for you! Congrats!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Question, my boiler has white sediment all around the furnace skirt, it's on the basement floor. Is this a big problem?
good explanation
Hello Ozzstar;
Thanks very much!
Should anything come up you are curious about just drop me a line!
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
TheOldkid888 will do, thanks man
Thanks for the help. It s actually my sons house and I’ll be going there tomorrow to check it out. I’ll let you know how we make out. Also they are radiators with bleed valves not baseboard.
Thanks again.
Glad everything worked out for you! Feel free to ask whatever is on your mind! Al
Hi, I'm learning so much from your channel. I asked a question on another video of yours, but watching this video raised another question for me. My expansion tank is much smaller than the one in this video. Can my style tank be drained, or do I need to replace mine?
Hello Know How,
I would say the tank that you have is an extrol expansion tank.
They contain a bladder. These tanks cannot be drained.
To get you by for a short time, the pressure can be taken off the heating system by closing the feed water valve and opening the drain at the bottom of the boiler watching the gauge closely. Take it down to about 7 pounds and then pump air into the snifter valve on the end of the tank until it is around 15 pounds. You don't want to go any higher. This will hold you over for a short time.
Remember the relief valve on heating systems is set for 30 pounds so you really want to keep a close eye on the air you apply.
These tanks are about 1/5th the price of a 3 foot expansion tank. The full size expansion tanks lasts for decades, but have to be drained periodically (yearly I prefer) while the extrol tanks do not have to be touched.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
awesome video :D I was wondering my water is provided by a central boiler in my condo complex. Lots of townhouse style condos maybe 40 units in total. I have a split level townhouse and my baseboard heaters only work in the basement, main floor and kitchen. The Master bedroom and 4th floor heaters never turn on. I don't have fixtures shown in this video, no pressure indicator for one thing, and I am looking for the right questions to ask my tech when he comes. Any tips?
Hello xpoohx105,
I would ask him this...Was wondering if the pressure in the system is high enough as my forth floor is not heating at all?This will (should) indicate to him to check that the pressure in the basement.
Also ask...Do you think this loop could be air locked?
One pound of pressure will rise water 2.3 feet. This is a very common problem in two story homes, so I can see this happening in a forth floor condo.
I would also ask...Do you think the zone valve is operating ok?
It is possible for the thermostat not to be operating properly, but it is not a common problem.
So it could be one of the following...Air locked, zone valve not operating, low pressure on the entire system.
Good luck!
Thanks for the kind words and best of luck! Al
Hey man thanks for getting back to me. I tried to manually diagnose my issue, i set the Zone valve to manual and instantly heard the flow of water. After heating my 3rd and 4th floor to sauna levels (it's -20 outside today and i have all the windows open) i set it back to automatic and my house is still a balmy 30+ celcius inside. Radiators still giving off a lot of heat. Would this indicate a faulty zone control valve? Since my condo company is ignoring my phone calls and no one will service it without permission from the board I am sort of low on options.
Hello xpoohx105,
If you manually set it and it heats the floor for you; the problem lies in the zone valve.
If it is staying high then it is not closing all the way for you.
You should find a shut off on the other end of the loop that you can turn off or throttle back to somewhat control the water flow for you.
Look behind the radiator covers; it should be hiding somewhere there.
They should make this repair for you as it is costing them money to heat the water.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the heat. Al
Hi Al, it's RJ
I'm doing a whole house abandon of my slab heat piping. Too many leak occurrences and I've endured my LAST cold Winter in my house!
With PEX, I know I need use the O2 barrier style, but do you think I should use 3/4 for all the supply and return loops (seeing that my baseboard in/out are 3/4)? And- do I need to replace each complete baseboard if they are in good shape? They are decades old. Thank you!
Hello RJ,
Sounds like a little project ahead of you!
You are right with the O2 barrier when using pex on heating.
You can use 1/2" pex for the runs to the baseboards. With high efficiency pumps circulators you will have no issues. As far as the baseboard go they generally last for a very long time as they don't have any oxygenated water flowing through them so they where very little. They may last you for another number of decades. Here comes the but...If it was me; I would change them out to be safe. If you are planning on being in the home hopefully for many more decades; you will have no worries. The new ones will look very sharp as well.
I always place a piece of 1 by 4 strapping on the floor on either end of the baseboard and screw them on the wall.
Hope this helps...Any other questions feel free to ask. I'll get back to you as soon as I can.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hello, thank you for your video, My daughter recently moved into a home with hot water heat boiler. It works wonderful, but we were recently told she has to drain all the water out of the system in the summer months when not in use. Is this really necessary? We did not do that the first summer and had no problem relighting the system for this winter.
Hello Chris,
You're welcome!
No need of draining the system. Did they give you any reason why? I have never heard of that before.
Does the boiler maintain temperature during the months when heat is not required?
Is it a cast iron boiler or steel?
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
always good ...
Hello pei broker,
Hopefully it will help with any future repairs you may need to make.
Thanks for commenting and have a good one! Al
Terrific.
Hello Gil,
Thanks!
Hopefully it will help with a heating problem.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
I have a spirovent to get air out of the pipe for my hydronic boiler but still some of my baseboard convectors still don't get hot. Do I still have to manually bleed the convector ? Question 2# I have a 50 year old boiler where the circulator pump is connected to the return line.I read today's modern hydronic boiler has the circulator pump connected at the supply line for better hot water circulation to the convectors.Can I do that with my old boiler ?
Hello Nathan,
You will still to bleed the radiation manually. The air vent will help remove air, but the water will not get pulled around if there is a lot of air in the loop. This is the reason you are not getting heat in some rads. Basically air locked..
As far as the pump goes; I only hook them on the return to the boiler. The water will be pulled around regardless of where it is installed. I have seen a few installed on the supply, but it really doesn't make any difference.I don't believe it gives any better circulation on the supply as the pump can only pull around a certain amount of water regardless of where it is located.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy our week! Al
Thank you for the info .Have a good day.
Oh one more thing What if I remove the bleed valve on the convector and replace it with a air vent would that keep the circulation in that convector ?
Nathan 9
great vid！I recently bleed my heating system, and made those radiators getting hot which used to be cold. However the hot rads turned out to be cold! Don’t know why..... Tried bleeding and balancing that rad, but nothing work.......
Hello Winter Lu,
I take it you used the method in the video to purge them. You may want to try again and keep an eye on your pressure while you purge. Keeping it fairly constant make s a difference. So having the pressure above ten pounds is very important. That is where I lift the lever on the pressure reducing valve and watch the gauge on the front. How many zones do you have on the system? Are the rads that are cold on the second floor? Check the pressure on the system to make sure you have at least twelve pounds psi. When it is hot you should be between 18 and 20.
Thanks for commenting and let me know how you get along...Al
Hello my Friend...
Question: I have an oil boiler....Downstairs heat is fine..2nd floor no heat. Even when i open the 2nd floor zone valve the pipe gets hot passed the zone valve all the way up to the ceiling but no heat upstairs at all. Pressure is 25psi. Any suggestions??
Hello Tariq Khan,
From the information that you have given me I would suggest purging the system.
With 25 pounds pressure on the system which is a little high; the loop has air in it and the pump will not pull the water around with air in it. It is called air locked.
Happens quite often. In this video I purged the loop.
First shut the boiler off. Then you must manually open the zone valve, close the return valve and open the drain valve on that loop. Attach a hose to the valve and place it in a bucket. Watch your pressure. As it drops lift the small lever on the pressure reducing valve. This will send water into the system very fast...so you don't want it going above 20 pounds tops while purging. Run the water into the bucket and wait until there are no more bubbles appearing. Once this has taken place...drop your lever back to its regular position. Turn off the drain valve, open the return valve and put the zone valve in automatic position.
There should be no more than 20 pounds pressure in the system as the pressure relief valve is set for 30 PSI,
If you have any further questions feel free to ask.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
Thank you for the video! i can get pressure on the boiler doing this but the pressure goes back to 0 after a few hours. I also have a shut off valve between the reducing valve and the boiler. This is normally in the closed position and the lever on the reducing valve is normally up. Does this sound correct?
Hello isaacweesner8188,
You're welcome!
The lever should be in the down position on the pressure reducing valve and the valve should be always open. This will give you 12 pounds pressure in the system. This is when all things are working properly. The pressure should never go to zero unless you have a leak in the system.
Do you have any in floor heat in your home?
When you leave the valve open how long does it take to get the pressure up in the system and can you hear the water running for some time?
Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you can. Al
@@TheOldkid888 Hey Al, no floor heat. It takes a few seconds for the pressure to start moving upwards.
I did a full purge of the system yesterday because the second floor was completely locked up. No I have water running everywhere and the second floor is warm at least. When I opened the lever it took about a minute to get to 15 psi.
Hello isaacweesner8188,
That sounds about right as far as the pressure is concerned. You should always leave the valve open to the system to allow the PRV to keep a constant pressure which is needed. It's very common to find a pressured drop if the valve is turned off. The lever should down on the PRV. It maybe just a matter of unscrewing the nut that the lever is attached to so that it will drop down. Don't be afraid of unscrewing the lever/nut as nothing will happen as you turn it off.
Over time if the valve is turned off to the system, the reheating of the water will deaden it cause the pressure to drop. Therefore it is very important to leave the water shut to the PRV open at all times. If it is not the pressure will drop over time and when the water is heated it will not rise up to where it is needed such as the second floor. Every foot of rise requires .434 pounds to get to that height. The second floor being roughly 13 feet above the boiler requires 13 x .434 pounds to reach that level. Roughly 5.6 pounds. So your system should be operating when hot between 18 and 20 pounds. If your system is down to zero psi the water will never reach that height regardless of being pumped or not.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy the holidays! Al
@@TheOldkid888 merry Christmas thanks again
My tank looks like a 3 gallon tank and doesn't have a drain directly on it. Theres only one pipe that goes up into it from below with a steam valve thingy in the middle of it and another valve that spits out the water when theres too much.. is that where im supposed to drain it from?. Theres also the screw on top the tank
Hello Vic,
Is your tank about a foot in diameter and a foot long? If so, you will need to replace it if the relief valve is blowing off.
The tank contains a bladder and a pinhole has come in it some where. These are basically throw a ways. They cannot be repaired. They are not expensive as compared to the old style expansion tank that were 36 inches long and a foot in diameter that could be drained. So the tank you would be looking for if I have this correct is an Extrol tank.
Be careful when you are changing it. The old tank will be full and a little heavy. Be sure to put a hold back on the fitting that the tank screws into and make sure you close the valve in the pipe that the tank sits on.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the repair! Al
thank you! Everything appears to be working. I saved this info for later in case however
whats the age of that tank and whole system
i have a 2015 heater system so idk if this even apply
Hello Adam,
This system would be about 30 years old.
You would have similar parts on your system as the ones in the video.
Thanks for commenting and get back to me if you have any more questions....Al
can you do a video about tee's and wyes and where to use them and not. thanks Good videos.
Omega Man
Are you asking about drainage fittings! I will see what i can do in the near future!
Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
yes thanks, about drainage where y and tee's are to be used and not to be used.
Hello Omega;
Leave it with me and I will see what I can do this week!
Have yourself a great weekend! Al
This actually looks a lot like my set up. Unfortunately I know the button on the reset button has been pushed many times. What do I do in that situation? I know that it comes on when the water heats up would that burn off the oil? If not how dangerous is it? Thanks
Hello Candace,
You are talking about the red reset burner on the burner itself.
That is a sign that the burner needs to be serviced. It will burn a lot more oil then it needs to to heat the water. You should get an oil technician to change the nozzle, filter and clean the inside of the boiler itself. It is well worth the money to do this as it will save you much bigger dollars than you will spend on the service.
You should only press it once to reset it. If you are doing it more often there is a sign that something is wrong. You can actually flood the inside of the boiler with oil which can cause serious problems. Not trying to scare you, but this is should be addressed asap.
They should also be able to easily solve the air or pressure problem.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
@@TheOldkid888 thank you, I have someone coming today!
Hello Candace,
Sorry I missed your response on the two story.
The problem is in your pressure. A simple lift of the lever on the pressure regulator will increase the pressure. It is a little brass lever. You should check the boiler about every month throughout the winter to make sure the pressure doesn't drop. This is what is happening with your system every year. A simple lift of the lever and allow the pressure to rise above 12 pounds will force the hot water to rise into the second floor.
Hopefully the oil burner tech will fix this problem for you. Let me know how you get along. Al
@@TheOldkid888 the technician came today and said he never saw one with so much air in it! So it was air locked pretty bad. All fixed up now. Thanks!
I have a single zone system in a two store home. First floor heats fine. The second floor has four radiators. Only radiator 3 gets hot. Any suggestions?
Hello Glenn,
The first place I would look is the tridicator (gauge) on the front of the boiler. If the pressure is not high enough in the system; the second floor will not generally heat well. The pressure should be at least 12 to 15 pounds.
It can be increased by lifting the lever on the feed water valve slowly. You want to make sure the pressure does no go above 15 pounds. Keep an eye on the gauge as you increase the pressure.
Are these cast iron rads with air bleeders on them or are they baseboard radiation?
Get back to me when you get a chance....Al
That was the problem. Added water and bleed the air out and now got heat. Thanks
TheOldkid888 al, hope you get this. That was exactly the problem - low pressure. Now it works fine. Now I have a new problem. I have to replace a 40 gallon indirect hot water heater. Can you give me a “rough” idea of what that might cost? Thanks
Hello Glenn,
Awesome to hear!
Glad everything worked out for you! Congrats on the repair!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hello Glenn,
I really don't like giving prices out as it is hard to say what companies charge. Labor prices vary greatly from city to city and country to country. All depends on what part of the globe you live....That being said...there was a plumber who I know charged three times the rate of all the plumbers in my area, so the price can vary considerably. It is roughly half a days work.
Best advice I can give is to call around and ask what it will cost for the installation. Also ask about warranty.
I don't know if this helps, but it may give you a rough idea. You can look prices up on line for the tank and it will give you an estimate of what the tank is worth.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the repair! Al
I have a two story house. I get heat on all my heaters downstairs but only get heat on 1 heater upstairs. I checked my pressure gauge on my heater and it at 4psi. Is that low? What can I do to increase pressure. Is that the issue?
Hello geejr,
I believe you are correct. Sounds to me that the pressure is too low.. If you look at the system; you will see a pressure reducing valve. A brass looking valve. It will have a leaver on top. Simply lift the upward and you will hear water starting to flow into the system. Watch the gauge closely. You want it up around fifteen pounds. That should allow the water to get up into the second floor.
Thanks for commenting and let me know how you get along.....Al
I moved a little and now I hear it. Will it eventually stop?
Hello geejr
Yes. It is set for 14 pounds and should stop at that point. No worries.
I think you should be all set.
Good luck. Any issues...get back to me and we will see if we can figure it out.....Al
TheOldkid888 Thanks a million. It worked. I’m getting heat now up stairs in those radiators. It went up to about 18 psi when the heat was on now.
@@geejr
You are good to go!
Hope you enjoy your weekend!
Have a good one! Al
why didn't you record the video when you originally fixed the issue?
Hello Manuel,
I don't think of it many times until the job is complete.
In the video I showed how to remove the air from the heating system.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
I HAVE NO HEAT ON THE SECOND FLOOR, BUT I HAVE HEAT ON THE FIRST FLOOR! COULD IT BE THE HYDRONIC CHECK VALVE?
Hello 50JETHRO,
I would check the pressure on the gauge and see if you have at least 10 pounds pressure. If it needs more pressure you can simply lift the lever on the pressure reducing valve and raise the pressure to about 12 to 15 pounds.
Do you have a separate zone valve for the second floor and does it open. Check this by making sure the lever on the side of the zone valve slides back and forth easily.
Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance! Al
THANK YOU AL, I HAVE 30 PSI OVER 190 PSI. THE ZONE VALVE IS OPEN, THERE IS ONLY ONE VALVE! I CANNOT FIND THE FEED WATER VALVE LIFT LEVER! I ONLY HAVE A FAST FILL VALVE? STILL NO HEAT, BUT THE FINS ARE GETTING A LITTLE WARM!
Hello 50JETHRO,
You want to reduce the pressure in the system to 18 pounds max. The relief valve on the boiler is set at thirty pounds; so you want to be less than 20 to be safe when the system is hot.
Check the pipe coming back from the return pipe on the first zone and make sure it is hot. Just wanting to make sure the circulator is working.
That is something you want to look at.
Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance. Al
Wish I had seen this video a day ago before paying $100 for the guy to flip the lever to get heat up to the 2nd floor. What's weird is now the 2nd floor has heat, but no longer the 1st floor. Pressure is currently 18-19 and it goes to about 22 when turned on. Should I release some water to bring the pressure down?
Hello Jaygue K.,
The pressure should be around the 18 to 22 pound range when it is hot. As long as it stays away from 30 you are set. No worries at 22. You may have to purge the system to remove any air on the first floor.
Do you have cast iron radiators or baseboard heat? It sounds like it could be air locked if you are not getting any heat on the first and the second is fine.
Thanks for commenting an get back to me when you get a chance....Al
@@TheOldkid888 I'm in NNY so we're getting slammed, I'm just hoping something hasn't frozen in the time. I've gone to both base board pipes and unscrewed the little purge valves, all I got was frigid water that trickled down to nothing. Down stairs the pipe that I'm pretty sure feeds the first floor goes from hot to warm to cold the closer it gets to the wall. Again, the first floor was fine, and up top didn't get any heat. Flipped the switch (I'm assuming to build up pressure) and now the 2nd floor gets hot water but it seems like the 1st floor is being bypassed, except that there is one room on a separate pipe that is getting hot water. Also, it is pushing upwards to 30psi now, should I pour out some water from the blow out valve?
Baseboards are freezing cold downstairs now, and hot upstairs. I think I've identified the line that feeds the first floor and it goes from hot to warm to cold just before disappearing. I'm worried about a freeze because I'm in NNY and we're getting slammed. But it also doesn't make sense because the only fix yesterday was adjusting the valve to get more pressure up to the 2nd floor. I bled them, all was well then I noticed downstairs was not heating. I opened the bleed nozzles on them and all that came out was cold water and then it trickled to a stop. Also, the pressure is up to 30psi... do I relieve some pressure by purging water from the blow out valve or from the base boards themselves?
Hello Jayque,
You will need to drain some water off the system. Any drain on the boiler should work.
It sounds like a line could be frozen....Not positive without seeing it.
How many zone valves do you have? When you turn up the thermostats does the lever on the bottom or top of the zone valve move all the way over from right to left or vise versa?
Do you have an expansion tank or a small extrol tank on the system? An expansion tank would be about 3 feet long and a foot wide. With the pressure up to 30 pounds...there is a good chance the tank is water logged.
That is the most common problem with high pressure.
Get back to me when you get a chance....Al
Hello Jayque,
You don't have to flip the lever on the pressure reducing valve very long. You just want your pressure around 20 pounds as you see the pressure goes up quickly. So the pressure is not getting to that loop. Turn your thermostat up and try removing air again. You may have to put a small heater of some sort in the area where the pipe goes from hot to cold. You will need to go to all the bleeders and try and get some water out of them. This is the way that you remove the air from your system by the sounds of things. I know you are getting little to no water, but make sure they are all bled and snugged back up.
good luck!
Get back to me when you get a chance....Al
does a new valve come pre set to 12lbs
i need to reduce the pressure in my boiler
Hello Dan,
Yes they do. They are preset.
Is your relief valve popping off periodically or constant flow? It could one of a few items on the system.
What is the pressure currently at on the boiler. Does it only pop when the boiler is tunning?
Is the expansion tank or a bladder tank on the system? An expansion tank is generally about three feet long and one foot in diameter. Bladder tank is 1 about 12 by 12.
Do you have a coil in the boiler?
Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance...Al
In desperate need of help wit my furnace and baseboard heaters
Hello Jesse,
What seems to be happening with your situation?
Get back to me when you get a chance....Al
I had to replace a few baseboard heaters, and i can get water to all heaters but only hot water to one heater. It seems like the furance is not circulating the water, this heating system is a single loop system , any suggestions
hey its me again, hope all is well. I have a ? for you. one of my clients' tenants is complain about a thumping noise when the kitchen faucet is running(pex tubing). I clamped the pipes, no change. my next thought is that there is air within the line somewhere. How do I fix it? The water flows then thump and the water stops briefly. Thx again
Hello Ra
I would imagine the thumping noise happens when water is interrupted somehow in the building. If it stops completely for a second then there is an obstruction somewhere. Is the water supplied by the city or is it from a well? If there was any air in the lines; it would be pushed out when the faucet was opened.
Get back to me when you get a chance. Al
city water... it doesnt exactly stop. but when it thumps its like the pressure drops. i asked a friend who works in plumbing at lowes, he said it sounds like there is air in the line. whic i dont get, i assume as you sound it would be forced out when the faucet is opened
Hello Randy;
Not stopping completely is a little different story. It sounds to me like water hammer. This can be caused from different sources in the building. For example if some turns a faucet off very quickly it can happen.
If a toilet is flushed in the building as well as it shuts off you can get a hammer sound. Another place is the washing machine turning on and off. Solenoid valves open and close as the washer is being filled and this too can cause it to happen.
It can be annoying depending on the severity of how much the pipes move which is usually the cause for the noise. Shock absorbers can be put in place to eliminate this problem. Air chambers were used years ago to prevent this from happening, but Shoktrols are used today to prevent the hammering.
Sometimes it can be one item in the building that causes the problem; so hopefully this is the case for you and it can be resolved easily. I would hang around for a while and try turning a few different things on and off to see if you can find the source!
Hope this helps!
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
hello. Bought new home and I have heat on the second floor and the attic but the first floor and basement theres no heat. Can pressure be the issue, or do I need to bleed the baseboard heaters on the first floor and basement. Have Gas Furnace. Really wanna correct this issue instead of paying a specialist who gave me crazy prices.
Hello John,
Pressure isn't your issue.
I take it you have baseboard heat and not cast iron rads. I would first start trying to purge the air from each loop.
This should take care of your problem.
Let me know how you get along.....Al
My oil burner works but no heat on main floor, why? The radiators are warm and it’s on 80
Hello VD,
Is it baseboard radiation that you have or cast rads?
I am not exactly sure without having more information, but it the rads are just warm; the circulating pump could be bad and the rads are being gravity fed. This is just a guess right now. If you take a screwdriver and put the pointed end on the pump motor and the handle end up to your ear you should hear the pump running as long as your thermostat is up as you mentioned.
Also check the gauge on the boiler to see what the pressure is. It should be above 15 pounds if the system is hot.
Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance.....Al
I have 2 zones and upstairs I'm getting heat only in the bathroom and on 1 bedroom but I'm not calling for heat it's a hydronic system oil burner new yorker
Hello DETAILED WHIPZ,
Just to be clear...Are you getting heat in the rooms when the thermostat is turned down or
are you getting no heat in the other zone?
Thanks for commenting and get back to when you chance....Al
My burner keeps clicking on over and over what could the problem be
Hello Ryan,
I am not a burner tech.
Best advice to give you is to get a hold of one and have them look at it for you.
Have you had it cleaned lately? They should be cleaned and the filter and nozzle changed every year.
It could be a dirty nozzle, oil pump, contacts, aquastat etc...
There are a number of reasons why it may be acting this way, but getting a professional in to do a complete cleaning will save you money.
They should change the nozzle and filter along with brush and vacuum the inside of the boiler to do a proper job.
It shouldn't just take a few minutes to do.
I always recommend a service tech when it come to the burner.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the burner. Al
100 views and $175 later I found out the thermostat upstairs had bad wiring. #FirstTimeHomeOwner
What happened why no more new videos
Hello Honolulu 147,
Had a little thing take place as far as life goes, but should be getting back on track in the very near future.
Thanks for commenting and thanks for hanging in there! Al
Whatispatasium
Hello Rita,
Would you be referring to potassium?
No one can help me:(
Hello Sharon,
What of you have a problem with?
Al
Hello Al
I have had one problem after another regarding my home.
I moved back into my home because my rent to own tenants destroyed and pilfered furniture ect.
I repaired my home the best I can.
My home is listed with a good realtor. I living in this home for three years now and it is not a good place or situation for me to be here any longer.
Lot of quirky stuff happing here. My example; twice it was in escrow and fell out.
During the home inspection the heat quit.
I have had a total of 12 “Specialist” Plumber & AC’s at my home I have been without heat for over 2 mos.
In other words, It’s just been a cluster of unfortunate events.
The cops were involved and just all around bad mojo.
I Feel I can’t break free , I really asking the universe to bring me a good buyer with a good offer asap.