In this Video we set up a 2023 Bowtech CP30 from the ground up! Let me know what else you would like to see and what I can do to improve the content. Enjoy!
Hello, you mentioned spec being plus or - quarter inch yours being a 16th long with your new strings my factory strings after being shot in our 5/16 long, and I am down roughly 2 pounds of draw weight did not test the bow off the hop not sure if it’s down or that’s how it come from factory is there any magic can be done to gain some weight back or should a guy just rely on a new set of strings at some point
Absolutely it’s 100% fixable. So it’s not uncommon to see a lot of string and cable stretch with factory sets due to the lesser quality materials they use. You will have to add twists to your Cables and string to bring the bow back into spec and weight. I like to keep it to a 3 twist into cable to 1 twist into the string ratio to keep from messing with your Draw length while shortening that bows ATA then increasing Draw Weight. Bowtech does state they want the bows +/- .25 but I always try my hardest to get it as close to factory spec as possible. The other thing I would check is the serving around your cables where the wrap around the power side of the bow.. I’ve seen a pile of the CP 30’s and SS 34’s with severe serving separation in that area. If string material is exposed you may want to consider getting a better aftermarket set.
Took three twists back out of each cable re-time the bow centered. The peep got it back down to around 71 which I am a little more happy with. oh now measures between 30 3/8 and 30 1/16 which I’m going to leave it there
One more question for you I just picked up a qad integrate rest and tried mounting it onto the Cp 30 the other night to get clearance so I didn’t have any contact issues when the arms came down. I was well above centre on the burger holes on the bow, I know most like to run the arrow through, the burger holes or does it even matter on this one seem to work fine, but was at least half an arrow high on the holes. Is that how yours ended up as well? Thanks again.
Unfortunately the Mathews Quivers aren’t compatible with any brand but Mathews due to their specific mounting system. However a really good option for a fixed quiver is the Tight Spot Pivot. It fits the bow really well and is extremely adjustable.
Two great bows for 2 different reasons but at the end of the day they are both going to perform awesome for you in any application. The Sr350 is definitely faster but a little longer at a 33” ATA. The CP30 will be more maneuverable being a 30” ATA but very forgiving with a slightly longer brace at 6.75”. Shoot both if you can or have not already and one will stand out. I think what impressed me the most on the CP30 is how forgiving it is on every shot while still producing great speeds for its specs. Also at a 30” ATA the string angle is extremely comfortable mocking that of a 32” ATA bow. That’s all from the cam design. Let me know what route you take!
They are the Match Point Pro stops in the 10mm size. They also offer 6mm and 8mm. I went that route for 2 reasons.. first it gives you a much more solid back wall opposed to the stock rubber stops and secondly because they’re metal so they’ll last for the life of the bow and the feel won’t change unless I get some cable stretch. I’ve had a lot of the rubber stops eventually wear out after 200-300 shots.
I always wondered how that was done. TY
This vid is epic. Thanks man
This bow is just like my REVOLT. 30 ata ibo 335. Deadlock cams flip disc tech. But I love my Mathews v3x 29.
Hello, you mentioned spec being plus or - quarter inch yours being a 16th long with your new strings my factory strings after being shot in our 5/16 long, and I am down roughly 2 pounds of draw weight did not test the bow off the hop not sure if it’s down or that’s how it come from factory is there any magic can be done to gain some weight back or should a guy just rely on a new set of strings at some point
Absolutely it’s 100% fixable. So it’s not uncommon to see a lot of string and cable stretch with factory sets due to the lesser quality materials they use. You will have to add twists to your Cables and string to bring the bow back into spec and weight. I like to keep it to a 3 twist into cable to 1 twist into the string ratio to keep from messing with your Draw length while shortening that bows ATA then increasing Draw Weight. Bowtech does state they want the bows +/- .25 but I always try my hardest to get it as close to factory spec as possible. The other thing I would check is the serving around your cables where the wrap around the power side of the bow.. I’ve seen a pile of the CP 30’s and SS 34’s with severe serving separation in that area. If string material is exposed you may want to consider getting a better aftermarket set.
Got the twist in and the bow went to spec had to twist. Lots of times both inspect now is at 74 pounds any advice thank you.
Took three twists back out of each cable re-time the bow centered. The peep got it back down to around 71 which I am a little more happy with. oh now measures between 30 3/8 and 30 1/16 which I’m going to leave it there
One more question for you I just picked up a qad integrate rest and tried mounting it onto the Cp 30 the other night to get clearance so I didn’t have any contact issues when the arms came down. I was well above centre on the burger holes on the bow, I know most like to run the arrow through, the burger holes or does it even matter on this one seem to work fine, but was at least half an arrow high on the holes. Is that how yours ended up as well? Thanks again.
Are you putting the mathews quiver on the bowtech?
I want this bow but don't like our bowtech don't offer a good 2 piece quiver option.
Unfortunately the Mathews Quivers aren’t compatible with any brand but Mathews due to their specific mounting system. However a really good option for a fixed quiver is the Tight Spot Pivot. It fits the bow really well and is extremely adjustable.
I've been on the fence about which bow to buy cp30 or sr350?
Two great bows for 2 different reasons but at the end of the day they are both going to perform awesome for you in any application. The Sr350 is definitely faster but a little longer at a 33” ATA. The CP30 will be more maneuverable being a 30” ATA but very forgiving with a slightly longer brace at 6.75”. Shoot both if you can or have not already and one will stand out. I think what impressed me the most on the CP30 is how forgiving it is on every shot while still producing great speeds for its specs. Also at a 30” ATA the string angle is extremely comfortable mocking that of a 32” ATA bow. That’s all from the cam design. Let me know what route you take!
What draw stops did you install
They are the Match Point Pro stops in the 10mm size. They also offer 6mm and 8mm. I went that route for 2 reasons.. first it gives you a much more solid back wall opposed to the stock rubber stops and secondly because they’re metal so they’ll last for the life of the bow and the feel won’t change unless I get some cable stretch. I’ve had a lot of the rubber stops eventually wear out after 200-300 shots.
What size are the stock draw stops? Trying to figure out which match point size to get
@@tristangendive9538 10mm they match the stock size so you get about the same let off.
#MFBD