I regularly make replacement parts for old, antique printing presses to help friends in my “printing community”. I derive immense pleasure from helping friends out. Good job Jon. 👏👏👍😀
As always, love to hang out in your shop, but these vintage fiat's and Euro cars are still a passion of mine. Now that passing over the top of the hill, it still hurts me to fill that my remainiing MB collection may end up one day a tank, fighter plane, or some ones body parts for knee's or what ever! Thank Jon, you just took me back 50 years when I owned a Trimph TR-6. Those were the days my friend. Thx for sharing, and hope the stickers show up this time, Bear ?
Hi Nigel, thanks for the comment. Lol, stock images being used here, but knowing the guy these are for, I am pretty sure it will be to a similar standard. Cheers, Jon
eyup Jon nice one Nice to have a machine shop to help good mates with vintage vehicles out, trouble is you don't want to many good mates with them or you never get time to do your own hobby, been there and got the tee shirt😉😉🤔🤔👍👍👍👍 thanks for my pleasant surprise, will catch up on that in a future vid. see you next time bfn Kev
@@jonsworkshop I used to have a chap come to service my boiler. So he knew all about my machines etc as boiler is in my workshop. Turns out he was restoring a Talbot motor home, needed some parts making for the gearbox. So I did that for him. It was very satisfying as you say.
I try to help my friends where I can as well, so making parts for their projects is doubly satisfying. I really like your videos. As a total aside, and not a criticism, I reckon the originals would be zinc or cadmium electroplated, not HDG. If I use SS for these parts sometimes a bead blast will give them a similar finish to Cad plating.
You caught me out Jon, was not expecting one this week. I know it won't be seen under the car bonnet, but not quite your usual standard 😊 I would have skimmed / filed / polished off the nasty raised burrs from the knurling. Looked quite horrendous in your zoomed in shot. Have fun. Regards from Australia.
Hi Dave, thanks for the comment. Can squeeze little ones like this in no bother😊. Yeah, my knurling tool is shocking, I did give them a blast with a rotary wire wheel before sending which definitely improved them a bit. I am not willing to go down the pressure knurl route as spindle bearings are £1k each! so definitely need to persevere with opposing / scissor types. I like what Nobby has but again, not willing to risk my tailstock quill. I may design something that resembles the industrial version but that fits onto the tool post in the future. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop The method with the pinch type knurler you've used here is still 'pressure knurling'. It really makes no difference whether the pressure knurls are pinched from opposing sides of the workpiece or pressed in as a closely spaced pair from one side the result will be the same. Your issues here are the quality of the knurling wheels being of poor quality and lacking true concentricity with the axle pin. My biggest dislike of the type of pressure knurls that are pushed in from one side is the strain they place upon the cross slide lead screw and nut. Have you thought about making a cut type knurler head? There are a few videos on youtube covering homemade cut knurlers.
Nice one Jon. They might not be to original spec, but will always stay looking good being stainless. The plated or dipped always ones corroded or oxidised very quickly. Great bit of work. Cheers Neil
Jon, I have not yet tried machining SS because I have heard it work hardens by just looking at it…303 is ok but stay away from 304. Yet you seemed to have no problems keeping it workable. Yes you put a fair amount of coolant on some processes but not so much others. You give me hope of using SS someday. Any tips? John a fairly new hobby machinist from Minnesota USA
Hi John, thanks for the comment. Nothing to be afraid of in any grade, I would rather be working in good grade SS than bright mild steel, very predictable, easy to get good surface finish on etc. Swarf control can be a nightmare though, and the strings are very strong and sharp enough to remove fingers! Tips are, slow RPM, high feed, coolant, and never let a tool dwell in one position. Good luck. Cheers, Jon
Hey Jon, great video. 09:00 reminds me a bit on something ever happen. And I'm here in the right place with you. when i use the center drill, there are always violent vibrations when the wide shoulders cut into it. no matter how tight everything is set, and no matter what the tempo. What is the reason? What i am doing wrong here.....
Hi Chris, thanks for the comment. It is difficult to know, but this sort of vibration is usually caused by wear in bearing surfaces. Could be your headstock bearings need adjusting, or it could be wear/play in the tailstock quill. Try a spot drill and see if you get any difference. Also, check your tailstock alignment to chuck centreline, it may be low/high. Cheers, Jon
Hello Jon, let’s test your memory. In what model of aircraft did you take that ride? You see, I’ve been an aviator all my days, and these details are interesting 🧐. Bonus points if you recall the engine model. 👍
Hi Dudley, thanks for the comment. It was a Piper PA-28 Cherokee. As for the engine, not a clue, all I can say is it kept going throughout the whole flight which I considered a bonus🤣🤣. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop Good point. It’s generally said, when an engine quits, “the silence was deafening”. 😄 Oh, the Cherokee was powered by either an O-320 or an O-360, depending upon horsepower, from Lycoming in Williamsport, Pennsylvania.
I regularly make replacement parts for old, antique printing presses to help friends in my “printing community”. I derive immense pleasure from helping friends out. Good job Jon. 👏👏👍😀
Thanks Andrew, it's a great way to spend your time isn't it. Cheers, Jon
Nice job, i would never have thought of using a round stock clamp of the last op 👍.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks John, it worked out great, glad I made it now😁. Cheers, Jon
As always, love to hang out in your shop, but these vintage fiat's and Euro cars are still a passion of mine. Now that passing over the top of the hill, it still hurts me to fill that my remainiing MB collection may end up one day a tank, fighter plane, or some ones body parts for knee's or what ever! Thank Jon, you just took me back 50 years when I owned a Trimph TR-6. Those were the days my friend. Thx for sharing, and hope the stickers show up this time, Bear ?
Turned out well Jon. They will look the part.
Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean. Cheers, Jon
good video Jon and good job
Nice one Jon . 🍺🍺🍺
Thanks Max
That looks like a lovely Fiat 1500, nice little job for some workshop therapy!
Hi Nigel, thanks for the comment. Lol, stock images being used here, but knowing the guy these are for, I am pretty sure it will be to a similar standard. Cheers, Jon
eyup Jon nice one
Nice to have a machine shop to help good mates with vintage vehicles out, trouble is you don't want to many good mates with them or you never get time to do your own hobby, been there and got the tee shirt😉😉🤔🤔👍👍👍👍
thanks for my pleasant surprise, will catch up on that in a future vid.
see you next time
bfn
Kev
No bother Kev, you are welcome. Cheers, Jon
Aways good to help out a friend. I'm sure He will be very happy with it.
Hi Rusti, thanks for the comment, no better feeling is there, makes it all worthwhile! Cheers, Jon
It's so nice to make things for friends and family. Shame we live so far apart Jon, you could have borrowed my INDEX Knurling tool. Cheers Nobby
Rite Jon Dude, Nice simple job well done, always good to do a mate a favour! TFS, GB :)
Gday Jon, these are good little jobs that are quick and easy and best of all it’s helping a mate out, great job mate, cheers
Hi Matty, thanks for the comment. Bang on mate, good feeling isn't it. Cheers, Jon
Morning Jon, like the quick and easy projects, nice job
Hi Terry, thanks for the comment and feedback mate. Cheers, Jon
Very good, I enjoyed it. It is very satisfying to make parts for restorations, you know you've helped someone out and they will be around a long time.
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment. Yep, it's nice to know I have contributed to preserving some history, it's a good feeling. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop I used to have a chap come to service my boiler. So he knew all about my machines etc as boiler is in my workshop. Turns out he was restoring a Talbot motor home, needed some parts making for the gearbox. So I did that for him. It was very satisfying as you say.
Hi Jon, enjoyed the video, always good to help a mate out if you can! 😃👍
Regards Tony.
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment. We actually flew over your area in that flight many years ago 😊. Cheers, Jon
I try to help my friends where I can as well, so making parts for their projects is doubly satisfying. I really like your videos. As a total aside, and not a criticism, I reckon the originals would be zinc or cadmium electroplated, not HDG. If I use SS for these parts sometimes a bead blast will give them a similar finish to Cad plating.
Hi Kevin, thanks for the comment. Bead Blasting is a good idea, one for the to do list😁. Cheers, Jon
You caught me out Jon, was not expecting one this week. I know it won't be seen under the car bonnet, but not quite your usual standard 😊 I would have skimmed / filed / polished off the nasty raised burrs from the knurling. Looked quite horrendous in your zoomed in shot. Have fun. Regards from Australia.
Hi Dave, thanks for the comment. Can squeeze little ones like this in no bother😊. Yeah, my knurling tool is shocking, I did give them a blast with a rotary wire wheel before sending which definitely improved them a bit. I am not willing to go down the pressure knurl route as spindle bearings are £1k each! so definitely need to persevere with opposing / scissor types. I like what Nobby has but again, not willing to risk my tailstock quill. I may design something that resembles the industrial version but that fits onto the tool post in the future. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop The method with the pinch type knurler you've used here is still 'pressure knurling'. It really makes no difference whether the pressure knurls are pinched from opposing sides of the workpiece or pressed in as a closely spaced pair from one side the result will be the same. Your issues here are the quality of the knurling wheels being of poor quality and lacking true concentricity with the axle pin. My biggest dislike of the type of pressure knurls that are pushed in from one side is the strain they place upon the cross slide lead screw and nut. Have you thought about making a cut type knurler head? There are a few videos on youtube covering homemade cut knurlers.
Nice little Jop ,there is a spare parts store for those cars Zip Trys
Kit from Down Under
Hi Kit, thanks for the comment. I will forward that nugget of info on to my friend, thank you. Cheers, Jon
Nice one Jon.
They might not be to original spec, but will always stay looking good being stainless. The plated or dipped always ones corroded or oxidised very quickly.
Great bit of work.
Cheers Neil
Hi Neil, thanks for the comment and feedback, much appreciated. Cheers, Jon
Jon, I have not yet tried machining SS because I have heard it work hardens by just looking at it…303 is ok but stay away from 304. Yet you seemed to have no problems keeping it workable. Yes you put a fair amount of coolant on some processes but not so much others. You give me hope of using SS someday. Any tips?
John a fairly new hobby machinist from Minnesota USA
Hi John, thanks for the comment. Nothing to be afraid of in any grade, I would rather be working in good grade SS than bright mild steel, very predictable, easy to get good surface finish on etc. Swarf control can be a nightmare though, and the strings are very strong and sharp enough to remove fingers! Tips are, slow RPM, high feed, coolant, and never let a tool dwell in one position. Good luck. Cheers, Jon
Hey Jon, great video.
09:00 reminds me a bit on something ever happen. And I'm here in the right place with you. when i use the center drill, there are always violent vibrations when the wide shoulders cut into it. no matter how tight everything is set, and no matter what the tempo. What is the reason? What i am doing wrong here.....
Hi Chris, thanks for the comment. It is difficult to know, but this sort of vibration is usually caused by wear in bearing surfaces. Could be your headstock bearings need adjusting, or it could be wear/play in the tailstock quill. Try a spot drill and see if you get any difference. Also, check your tailstock alignment to chuck centreline, it may be low/high. Cheers, Jon
Hello Jon, let’s test your memory. In what model of aircraft did you take that ride? You see, I’ve been an aviator all my days, and these details are interesting 🧐. Bonus points if you recall the engine model. 👍
Hi Dudley, thanks for the comment. It was a Piper PA-28 Cherokee. As for the engine, not a clue, all I can say is it kept going throughout the whole flight which I considered a bonus🤣🤣. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop Good point. It’s generally said, when an engine quits, “the silence was deafening”. 😄 Oh, the Cherokee was powered by either an O-320 or an O-360, depending upon horsepower, from Lycoming in Williamsport, Pennsylvania.
✌❤😊