I've been using both ONR and McKees N-914 a lot lately for rinseless washes. I don't have a garage and my washing sessions are a race against the clock and this method saves time. I'm not a pro and I can't tell the difference between the two products. I do recommend pre-treating the paint with a spray of the solution and allowing it to dwell to loosen up the dirt before the contact wash. Thanks for the video Jon.
I’ve got a garage but too much stuff in there to park a car in there and I have a big car so it would be tight anyway , I always do normal 2 bucket method outside and it can take me 2-3 hours for doing everything , I don’t have to race against a clock abc it’s not a problem
@@M.E63 I have to say it takes me at least 2 hours to do the exterior of my car even if I do it at a fairly good pace. I see loads of detailers on RUclips claiming to do their car in a very quick time, say less than an hour, tbh I don't believe any of them. Let's be honest just doing the wheels and tyres properly can take up to 30 minutes. I've watched plenty of professional detailers, you know guys who actually do it for a living, and believe me they do NOT do a car in 1 hour! I've learned over the years to take RUclips detailers claims on almost anything with a pinch of salt, let's not forget why they are even on RUclips - to make money! It's becoming more and more obvious with certain channels that it's all about how much they can make and not always about being truthful, sooner or later they all sell out. Trouble is we are not all idiots and I'm sure they think we are mugs, but we see you guys and know exactly what your game is! Some of them just lose their way, some of them forget why people subscribed to their channel in the first place, some of them have no clue why people follow their particular channel! Some of the go 'all Hollywood' and let their egos take over, some of them reach a level of subscribers where they can churn out any old crap and make shed-loads of $£€ so they start doing exactly that, and some of them put stuff on their channel that has nothing to do with the channels original or claimed content just because they have hundreds of thousands of subscribers. And don't get me going on these new 'shorts' videos, I mean how many time do we need to see someone snowfoam a car? Answer is zero because we know how to snowfoam a bloody car! It teaches absolutely sod all and is a pure cynical money-making scheme. I hate what's happening, some great channels have totally lost their way! Then of course there are all the freebies they get for plugging certain companies and products, not to mention actual payments which don't get mentioned, it's become impossible to tell truth from fiction in RUclips detailing-land these days making most of the content worthless. A pro-detailer who actually makes his living from that business but is willing to show you there actual real-life work as they do it is worth watching, Jim White from WhiteDetails being a great example or Sandro from Car Craft Auto Detailing, both pros with the highest standards of work who actually run a top-end detailing business. Feel free to copy and paste this on any detailing channel of your choice, it's time they realised we are not idiots and know exactly what they are doing!
@@steverabbits Yh your right it’s impossible to do just the exterior in a hour, some claim they can do inside and outside in a hour, quickest I can do the exterior is 2 hours but once I done all the dressing and other little things we talking close to 3 hours, I really thought I was slow but obviously not, I do watch Sandro and he can take a week to do a car including correction and protection and I do understand RUclips and click bait and revenue and it’s hard to believe some things but obviously not everything
@@M.E63 Iv done the exterior many times with a proper pre wash foam cannon bilt hamber, pressure washer, going around the car 6 times, hand wash, drying aid when drying, etc..in a little over an hour..ONR method im done in under 40 mins with full wheel and tire wash, without wheels and tires im done in 25 mins.
JON, I've only used ONR, the ORIGINAL. Here in the Hartland (USA) we have extreme conditions, both Heat, Cold & Snow. So weekly washes are necessary most of the year. I use the ONR with wax for washing, drying aid, cleaning interiors, in my steamer, etc. For about $20.00 (US) I can wash a car 500 times.
Hi Jon, Yvan Lacroix said that unlike ONR, McKee's N-914 is a pure cleaner and doesn't leave anything behind. So McKee's is best suited for those not wanting to mask whatever coating they have on the car. As for instructions, you use it the same way as ONR. There is a little bit of wishful thinking with these products, even during a demo, Yvan would layer APC on top to help deal with bugs/etc. So I'm of the opinion this is a quick way to clean a relatively clean car as it struggles with baked on or greasy dirt. Still, given the recent weather, used it and didn't get any watermarks, so that's good. As for sponges, the BRS can't be used with other traditional car detergents, whereas the BGS can (as can the the Rag Company black sponge, but that thing is useless because being black you can't make out if there's any dirt in it).
Yes it struggles with baked on grease/dirt/bugs as do all the other ph neutral car shampoos so what is your point ? As with the black sponge, if the dirt is not on the vehicle after using it, assume it's on the sponge.
@@MrViktordagur Dealing with your last comment first, when you dunk the dirty sponge back into the solution, the only real way to make sure that all the dirt has left the sponge is to visually inspect it, and trying to spot dirt on a black sponge is a bit challenging, obviously. In this video Jon questioned the degreasing abilities of these types of product, and that is the context in which I was making my point. If you've ever watched a video demonstration by Yvan Lacroix, he tends to dismiss snow-foam (more specifically ph neutral snow foam which tends be what is favoured by the North American market) and then go on to claim that rinseless washing is "better" than the usual snow-foam pre-wash followed by a 2 bucket contact wash. So my point is, in a recent McKee's demo he reached for an APC to deal with bugs and grease thus contradicting his previous position. But, although I don't like his hyperbole, I still like using these types of products in certain scenarios (I have both ONR and McKee's).
@@KojakKronos i agree that ONR has poor degreasing to no degreasing ability. I can see it especially on a white car after it has rained and there is a film of grime on the car. During the summer, not an issue as the dirt is usually dry. Optimum Power clean is needed. I normally ONR wash first to get rid of any abrasive dirt on the car. Then follow up with Optimum power clean sprayed on surface, and wiped around with an ONR damped towel. I don't remember having decreasing issues with Car Soap, even if it is Ph neutral.
I've been using onr for years now. I use a couple microfibers to wash, folded up to have 8 clean sides and usually clean about 1 panel per side. I don't put them back into my bucket to that the product stays clean in the bucket. I also spray sealant onto the wet panel (in my case Reload) and use a damp microfiber to spread and soak up the panel. Then I buff with a fully dry microfiber. I will also wipe down the door jams and and dirty areas on the interior with the stuff. The bucket I use has a gamma seal lid so when I'm done I seal it up and use it for next time. Its fast too, I dont have to dedicate a Sunday morning to washing the car, I can wash anytime - even in hot sun - in under 20 minutes.
I use this method too! It reduces / removes contamination of the solution with all the dirt you just removed! Four microfibres and a 2 x drying towels and I am done. Really handy when I am away from home or on holiday.
In this particular scenario I would have spray some solution 1st to get the dried on dirt & grime to loosen and/or encapsulate. Also the ONR can be used a quick detailer because it does leave something behind, it's called wash & "SHINE" were as the Mckee's does not, which is why you can use the Mckee's as a paint prep.
@@ForensicDetailing Can you recommend a car shampoo for heavy duty cleaning? which is the best quality? my car hasnt been washed in about 5 months and it is white :o
I have started using ONR on my Classic cars, mainly as it minimises the amount of water being applied to the body. As anybody familiar with classics know, they are not as waterproof as modern cars and have a lot of hidden water traps. I use the pre soak method and multiple microfibre towels and a spray wax as a drying aid. Despite the very soft single stage paints I have not noticed any increase in swirls or mating. Plus you can use it indoors in winter due to the limited amount of water and in direct sun in summer.
And that's the old formula ONR! New formula ONR is a stronger cleaner and it beads up way quicker. When I compared the new one directly to the old one on the same car, I was blown away. I love how it beads on the car. The Mckee's inconsistent beading even puts me off. Flat panels behave very differently to side panels. Of course that's personal preference. ONR keeps the dirt largely in the media. However, after washing my two cars in about 20 minutes with the sponge, if I leave the bucket for a day. It will form a layer of dirt that is sticking to the bottom of the bucket. I honestly couldn't do without the stuff. It's the only way I wash and very happy with the results. It's the best interior glass cleaner I've ever used. It cleans up 99% of interiors perfectly well. And it's a great polish remover for a non-coating LSP. Adds extra lubricity before claying with a fallout remover, And it's cheap as all heck!
ONR pulls dirt out of the water better, making it sink to the bottom. N914 is a stronger cleaner, that’s why it makes the water flatter on the panel when you wipe over. I love rinseless washes, though I use neither of these currently - I am using Griots Brilliant Finish, which is very similar in performance to ONR, but leaves less polymers behind and I also use Feynlab Pure Rinseless which cleans like nothing else and is wonderful as a safe polish removal aid on soft paints. Also, they aren’t waterless washes specifically, they are rinseless washes. There was a good amount of water in your bowls! You still use water, but you just don’t need to rinse. That doesn’t mean that you don’t or shouldn’t pre-wash. On a dirty car, they are just replacing the regular shampoo portion of a wash for me, I will have still done a pre wash of some form.
Been using ONR for about 15 years now and recently got some N914 from Imran. I have noticed that ONR does effect the water behaviour of my LSP sometimes, no big deal and is only temporary. What interested me about N914 was their claim that it leaves nothing behind so won’t effect the water behaviour. You can pre-wash and they do say this quite often, then do the rinseless routine, I do that all the time. You can trust the technology in the rinseless washes, you won’t scratch up your paint, i never have have but of course rinse off the heavy dirt first. I still foam and two bucket wash with shampoo most of the time but will always do a quick rinseless when time is an issue especially in the summer. Rinseless is the best way to clean your car in heat.
Absolutely agree with you Chris. I've been trying ONR, Feynlab amnd Wolfgangs - I never wash it without doing a pre-soak (with the rinseless product) and then rinse with the pressure washer. The one time I've tried it without doing a pre-rinse with the pressure washer I have pre-soaked and let it dwell, then hit it again with more pre-soak before the contact wash - I'd never do it on a dry panel, that's gotta be a recipe for disaster. Following Yvan Lacroix's approach I also spray the panel with the rinseless wash product in it's QD concentration prior to drying.
@@jal7068 generally it won't do any more damage than a regular 2 bucket wash IF you use the correct process. I wouldn't use cloths for example (I did when I started doing it but now I use a MF pad) and, if really dirty, rinse the pad out after one pass on each side. And you pre-soak the panel, and you have plenty of wash solution in the pad...and you use a QD to aid the drying.
ONR is one of the originals and still is the number one RW IMO. The latest version has increased lubricity. It's also a very safe product. The product is zwitterionic as well.
I’m a big fan of ONR for light dirt or dusty cars. I find it has its place. I do always tend to put it in a pump sprayer to pre soak as I don’t like going on dry! I also have around 5-6 synthetic wash mitts I use so I don’t do the whole car with just 1. I then spray the car again after washing so I’ve got plenty of lunrication for the drying process. I also think ONR have a few formula which is meant to be slicker but it’ll take years to get through my 32oz bottle.
My method with ONR is similar to yours Ben. Multiple clothes sitting in my ONR solution. Pre wash panel with solution in pump sprayer. I tend to squeeze most of the water out of the cloth before use.I then fold my cloth in to 8 and only use 1 side for 1 or 2 wipes depending on the panel. I always inspect the cloth after every wipe to see how much dirt is on it. I then use a clean side for the next wipe. When I’ve used all 8 sides the cloth goes in to a empty bucket for the washing machine. I’ve never had to re wet the panel before drying. I always start at the top of the car and work down. I know John’s car wasn’t that dirty but he cleaned the wing with ONR from the top to the bottom and then went back up again. You’ve more chance of marring doing this. I find ONR great for a summer evening mid week wash.
@@SuperDuncan67 yes that’s exactly the time when i tend to use it. I might give the microfibre wash and fold method a go next time. I’ve never had any marring issues and my cars got black paint so it would stand out like a sore thumb.
Awesome coincidence! I commented yesterday about using rinseless wash being my friend in extreme heat conditions and today there is a forensic detailing video comparing rinseless washes!
I use both. ONR in the steam machine and for quick wash, clay, seal type of details, but for cleaning the paintwork getting it ready for polishing and a ceramic coating I find Mckees is a slightly better cleaner, and ONR a better lubrication wash. One capful of Mckees in a litre bottle of surfex HD cut 50:1 is an excellent interior wipe down cleaner with the apple scent of the Mckees a nice bonus
Nice one… I don’t see the big deal, it’s as good as ONR for me; but then again there is also a new ONR formula out as well. For those of us with no hose or pressure washer, Rinseless is a god send…
Hi Jon. There have been times when my car is dusty rather than dirty and I've wished there was something I could use for a quick clean. So I found your demonstration really interesting and useful. I'm going to buy some No Rinse and give it a go. Many thanks Andy
I used onr exclusively for over a year to see how it behaved. When using it with the ‘pre spray’ method it was very effective and no swirling was introduced. It was only in the winter months with mud and grit etc that I decided to change back to water and pressure washer. Interestingly as soon as I touched the paintwork with the wash mitt, the paint swirled up like crazy and I had to polish it! Don’t know why but it’s happened a couple of times now. I will be sticking to pressure washer unless it’s very light/quick to do.
I live in a townhouse complex where we can't use running or flowing water in our garage, so I have to basically do rinseless all the time. I do a presoak with ONR using a IK Multipro 2 on the whole car. Then I use the ultimate black sponge to do a contact wash. At the end, I go over the car again quickly with the IK Multi and ONR to keep the car wet so I can dry it and reduce the risk of swirls and marring. This approach lets me stop wasting time doing panel by panel, and I can do the whole car. The car is coated with Gyeon Can Coat EVO, so every 3-4 weeks, I'll use Ceramic Detailer as a drying aid panel by panel as I go around drying it. The ONR and Ceramic Detailer seem to play nicely together too which was something I was worried about. It's pretty time efficient and the results are good.
Another great video, Jon! I just use ONR. Whatever it might leave behind isn't going to be there long, and is easily removed with their Paint Prep. These days I'm using some type of Optimum LSP, which works great in conjunction with ONR. I haven't used soap in years. I do still power wash beforehand if needed.
I think you're right on the ONR formula change - a video with YL referenced that people had found the N914 slicker so they responded. I normally used ONR for bird poop, but better half's car needed a clean and I didn't have much time. Used YL's method - Pump Spray, bucket with sponge/micro fibra, then QD as drying aid with the towel. (Used BH QD at 9:1). It looked pretty good to be fair. There's probably going to be water restrictions this summer so I'd better get used to it!
Your observations are very in line with what I have observed. ONR looks cleaner I believe due to the encapsulating it does. It pulls the dirt down in the bucket. Most rinseless washes do this except for N914. N914 to me seemed more soapy, so I think it does clean slightly better, but I prefer ONR due to its polymer encapsulation technology. N914 lays flatter on the panel for me. I think that again is because it works a bit different. Both are great products though. It’s nice they are a bit different as people can try them and pick which they prefer.
Yeah same experience here. Been using ONR for a year or so and recently used Mckees, I found it was a little shampoo like in that it foamed up in the bucket a little where as ONR barely does and where I missed a couple of drips here and there it dried a bit like a traditional shampoo, this isn’t the case with ONR in my experience and I definitely find ONR encapsulates which is appealing.
@@pat_rickb8523 maybe try just a bit less product in the dilution? I've noticed it seems a bit hit and miss on exactly what your describing. Was just thinking it was me messing up dilution . Which is pretty stupid proof. But yeah I think it's a hit and miss. When I first used it , it didn't suds up and seemed to work a bit better than it does now. Maybe it doesn't do to well with storage?
@@conwaysdetailing387 yeah good point. I’ll keep experimenting, I do like it but for me it won’t replace ONR it’s just a little better based on the experiences I’ve had so far.
Very good info. I have recently delved into the world of rinseless washing. I initially tried P&S Absolute and love it to this day. Then got some Opticoat No rinse. Haven't tried McKees but got some DIY Detail which is very similar I have been told. My latest is the ONR Wash N Wax which is fantastic... I agree, the sponges are expensive but very effective, and a pre spray is always necessary for me, especially with the surfactant based formulas.
There's something interesting to add in your observation of the amount of dirt in the water. I've found that ONR cleans as well but I think it encapsulates and drops the dirt inside the bucket, so it looks cleaner in the bucket. I find that Wolfgangs behaves just like McKees in this sense (Imran's sent me some McKee's to try myself).
John, you're only scratching the surface. I use 914 almost exclusively. Always start with the pre rinse with pressure washer, then quickly spray a slightly higher concentrated version of the product around the car, go back with single bucket and dedicated rinseless wash mitt and wash light pressure but overall normal. Solution almost always dries on the car. Finish up with quick detailer and it looks just as good as any two bucket full on soap wash. Basically saves the time of rinsing the car and drying a very wet car versus a mostly dry one
This sounds like a better method with the pre rinse to minimise swirl marks and similar to what I've been thinking. I'll probably even use 2 buckets - one for the top section and the other for the lower section.
I want to call BS on McKee's not leaving "anything" behind. Their SDS sheet conveniently leaves out any ingredients (not sure how this is legal. The product has warnings on it, so by law you have to include ingredients of risk on the SDS sheet), which I'm sure would be shockingly similar to ONR
you do not have the means to test cleaning power or gloss so at best your speaking anecdotally. materials that leave nothing behind cannot effect gloss unless they burnish clearcoat like an abrasive. your talking "hype" language and that isnt the way we roll. the first thing I would do is compare costs of all these products and I tend to recomend the ones that give people value as well as performance. I suspect all these products use the same underlying surfactant and have small variations in the rest.
Nice vid and info as always. Thanks for sharing your pure unrefined thoughts :) Just because they are no Rinse washes, doesn't mean you cant pre wash, if the car is dirty enough to warrant it. I'd also use a bucket with a grit guard to reduce the chance of marring, as well as using chenille noodle mitts, if your like me and have nightmares spending £30 on a sponge.. Also a pre spray works a treat. These work, imho, best as an in between a "proper" wash, just to give it a quick clean when its not too dirty, and I got 20 mins. I find it quite a "dirty" wash as well. This is another tool in the box for summer as I can wash the car in direct sun light when its hot as a bonus with these.
That indeed is weird how Yvan Lacroix suddenly switched to promoting ONR to McKee's. He's his own person and doesn't work for anyone, but it's just sort of like seeing Ronald McDonald suddenly promoting Burker King. Just sorta weird.
I’ve noticed something similar with Opticlean and Mckee’s Graphene Rinseless Wash. I had been using Opticlean, but Amazon was out, so I decided to try the Mckee’s Graphene Rinseless Wash, as both seem to leave behind some protection. I noticed that the Opticlean solution seemed to stay cleaner, but my towels seemed to be dirtier. With the Mckee’s, the solution gets dirtier, but my towels seem to stay cleaner.
Hey Jon. I actually use Carpro ECH20 similar product but use it differently! In my two bucket method, I use 30ml in the rinse bucket. It's helped me so much on hot days, no soapy residue on glass or paintwork. By far the product I couldn't live without now!
Can you explain the methodology here? You use standard shampoo in your wash bucket but then rinse your sponge in a bucket with ECH2O? What are the benefits here?
I alternate between rinseless and a regular washes on a weekly basis. The shorter time needed to do the rinseless allows me time to do the interior or some decon. I also always use a drying aid.
@@tommyholt3465 I’m glad other people are experiencing this too. Onr definitely pulls it down much better than 914. Makes for a cleaner solution if you do one bucket method
Dirt is releasing it into the ONR too, but N914 holds it in suspension while it is dropping to the bottom of the ONR bucket. Split a car down the middle, wash one side with ONR and the other side with N914. The ONR bucket will look much cleaner. But if you pour them out slowly, you will see all the dirt at the bottom of the ONR bucket when compared to N914.
I’ve used Onr quite a lot but I’ve always pre washed and used a fresh microfibre for each panel I get why you did this test though for the viewers who don’t have access to free flowing water
People are scared to use rinseless wash but happy to blast the grit around the paint at 2000 psi with the jet wash. I've been using them for over a year now & mine swirl free, I do snow foam & rinse first & use rinseless as my contract wash.
You are correct in the price of the sponge. The N914 can paint prep for water based polishes. Nick from Mckees said that. I do find the N914 cleans cloths out mire that I soak in them than ONR.
As someone who uses rinseless everyday and have tried almost all of them. IMO the top 2 rinseless washes are feynlab pure rinseless and carpro ech2o. Feynlabs cleaning ability is unmatched, ech2o has great cleaning but the towel wipe off is so smooth, no resistance.
I use ONR for my business and mix it with distilled water. We have hard water here. Maybe try a separate video with distilled water and see IF it makes a difference. I have seen someone mixing a scoop of fine yard dirt/silt to see which one encapsulates better
Love ONR never used it as a pure wash but as a drying aid, visor(bug) cleaner, brilliant on Windows and for removing bird droppings. Often put half a cap in with my shammy..
I have been using both. I got n914 cuz of the crazy small dilution ratios. The waterless of 1:128 translates to like 15ml to a 32oz spray bottle. However I can say n914 sucks as a quick detailer in a true waterless wash. No buckets. Just you and some mircofiber towels. I find myself having to damn near soak the panel to prevent scratching and to get the same results as onr with just a few sprays. I have to keep the tree sap off my car almost every 3days. Now as a rinseless they are near the same for Me. However onr leaves a better shine for me. Do I care about left over polymer on car. No I live next to trees so I need that.
Great Vedio tanks for your efforts, i ONR is best so far as well i use FEYNLAB PURE RINSELESS which even desolve the breakdust and great TRF you should try as pre wash if you got your heand on it, In GULF we have supply chain issue and amazone price is 3 times of the actual cost which i don't find worth to pay
First time I used ONR I winced as I could feel the sandpaper like like feel as you did the first pass of the mitt. I've refined my use over time. I use it for light dusting and fairly regularly. I always pre spray with the solution and I will use a QD to remove any residual spots. Filthy car then a proper wash with shampoo. My car has swirl marks but they've always been there😂
No rinse does not mean you can't rinse before going for the contact wash. I pre spray with the rinseless solution in a pump sprayer. Pressure wash it off and then go for contact wash ( UBS or BRS with ONR). Mckees might be worth a try. ONR has had many updates since you've bought that bottle 😄 Yvan recently started a new project called DIY Detail. They have their own rinseless product now.
That guy would seem more trustworthy if he didn’t have 3+ brands where he sells the same stuff under different labels. Plus he looks like a pure snake oil salesman. ONR works but I’m just saying he doesn’t give the best vibe
I have found myself lately snowfoaming my car, rinsing off and then instead of a full contact wash I'm doing an ONR wash, then drying the car using ONR in a spray bottle at about 16:1 as a drying aid. It works really well tbh. My car is never mega dirty in fairness. I love the stuff and have ZERO marring on a recently painted panel so I'm happy it's safe enough for me.
That's the best method imo if you go rinsless. Or what I do is wash the car like normal than I use the rinsless wash as a drying aid. I just got the mckees because it doesn't leave polymers and my car has a gtechniq coating so I don't want extra polymers
When I used ONR, I made up the 2 gallon solution, then filled up a pump spray bottle to use as a pre rinse then went over the car with a noddle mitt that was slightly dripping. Did a good job as a quick one bucket wash with grit guard obvs😄
Just started using Autoglym Quik Refresh and also just purchased some ONR. Decided I’d them with the brilliant Autoglym Instadry. I’m just after a reasonably clean and presentable car. Might have to buy some McKee’s rinseless wash and wax (Optimums version doesn’t seem to have reached the UK yet) to use weekly for an easy Winter wash.
Great stuff Jon. I've been experimenting too, haven't got round to McKee's yet but I've been trying Feynalb and Wolfgangs. The one thing I haven't done yet is bought myself to straight on to a dry panel more than once, I'm generally pre soaking with the product and pressure rinsing, then doing the rinseless wash and dry. In the one instance where I did go direct in with the wash I definitely did pre-soak, and then applied more again prior to the contact wash. After watching Yvan Lacroix's video on it I definitely wouldn't take a dry panel approach.
Ive recently tried doing a pre wash with BH touchless then a rinseless wash, which seems to work well. Its quicker than the traditional method but without using the brush it doesnt clean quite as well, but a good compromise.
I have both and based on my usage N914 is superior in most ways. In clay lube, rinseless wash and being versatile such as being used as a glass cleaner. Great video.
I would only do one wipe with an eighth of a microfiber, or use the sponge. Also, I would rinse the car off with a pressure washer or use a sprayer with rinseless solution to presoak. The rinseless part is referring to the fact the product doesn't need to be rinsed off, not no pre-rinse is needed. With an ideal technique, its quicker and safer than a foam/2 bucket wash, from my experience.
I was literally searching this comparison 2 days ago. Great timing! I have both btw and I can’t decide yet which is best. 914 doesn’t seem to drag the junk to the bottom of the rinse bucket like onr so I wonder about it’s encapsulating abilities
@@blahz7152 exactly, better yet try DIY Detail Rinsless wash, in my opinion the best on the market, similar to N-914 but better cleaning power, faster, releases dirt better from the wash medium
Jon - a quick question. I use DIY Detail Rinseless Wash - my windscreen suffers from horrible wiper judder when a protective coating is applied. So I use Glaco Ultra Compound on the windscreen to strip back any crap that has accumulated. The windscreen is completely hydrophilic - the way I prefer because there is no wiper judder. After using DIY RW, the water started beading off on the windscreen - wiper judder reappeared. I asked the DIY group if their RW contains any hydrophobic agents - they said no? Whats your thoughts? All the best.
I'm curious what folks think of the difference in amount of dirt coming off in the bucket, one compared to the other. Would think with the ONR, less dirt in bucket means more dirt left on car, taken off during drying. Not saying that is a bad thing, I have no idea, but a definite difference in the two products. Eddie Colon noticed the same thing with some other products (iirc the P&S Absolute did not pull dirt off wash media as well, but can't remember which product he was comparing it to). What ideas do you all have in pros and cons, where ONR *appears* to leave more dirt behind? Thanks!
I don't know if you have a UV camera but an interesting experiment could be putting a UV protectant on your car and then spray both products on the vehicle and with the UV camera see which one took the most off. I think this would be the easiest way to see which has better cleaning power.
I bought the mkees as in2detailing been start selling it recently , reason I bought this one was bcuz it leaves nothing behind and can use it as quick detailer too or drying aid without leaving anything behind . I think I will buy the newer ultra black sponge as I tried it with soft99 sponge and I think it causes swirls, onr does leave something behind but mkees doesn’t
@@jayhoughton558 Yep saw a test on Reddit of this and the N914 just left the dirt floating around, whereas the ONR just dropped almost immediately to the bottom. ONR much better product just for this reason IMO.
@@jayhoughton558 and @se43 Id love to see a more formal test proving this. The “dirty water” of n914 is certainly consistent, even in my own use. What I haven’t seen, is evidence of ONR methodically placing all the “encapsulated” dirt at the bottom of the bucket. Does it really? Why can’t we see that in a video like this? With soooo much dirt mixed in the 914 bucket, it would seem an equal amount in the ONR bucket base would be clearly visible.
In my experience, I found 914 to have more cleaning power, but I agree that ONR will pull dirt to the bottom of the bucket. So now my method is to rinse my mitt in ONR but clean with 914
@@ninetres187 exactly my thoughts. I have used and keep on shelves most rinseless washes available on my market (Poland) like griots, ech2o, wolfgang, onr and n914. And n914 is the only one that does not stain the wash media. My guess is that it’s the only one that truly releases the dirt in to the bucket. I feel like onr is keeping all the crap in the sponge. My prefrence is to have a clean sponge when touching the paint and the lubricity does the rest. Not mentioning The bucket after a onr wash is sticky and hard to clean, whilst after n914 it just needs a quick flush. And still you can see the grime on the bottom with n914. So my guess is that the dirty colour of the water is not dangerous - just discolouration by the lightest dust particles that can not harm the paint especially with all the polymers. At least I’ve never had this issue and sometimes i just use a pump sprayer to knock down the heaviest dirt and not prerinse my car even though i know i should.
Here is a bug removal hack you may not think to do. Wash the front of your car with one of these solutions with the solution hot. Heat greatly increases solubility and significantly adds to the cleaning power. You can even take several wet hot towels and set them on the panel and leave them on for 5 or 10 minutes to soak and heat up the bugs. This works very well if you have black or dark towels and let the sun beat down on them and keep them hot. You will be amazed how soft and easily removed old dried bugs will come off after a hot soak.
Hinestly I’m thinking of using onr as the contact stage washing solution for its lubricity. But still keep the prewash stage alive. Sounds like a good combo
I see that there are new waterless products on the market. Infinity Wax’s Zero water and Bouncer’s RCD - be good to have an updated “best waterless” video with talk of drought and hosepipe bans!
Interesting watching this with hose pipe bans... 1) using rainwater/greywater (limited in terms of chemicals put in there) then using a container/water butt to pressure washer 2) using these products? 3) waterless wash?
I don’t have the link at the moment but some guy did a test with actual dirt and ONR Vs N914. Basically showing that ONR pulls the dirt to the bottom of the bucket way better than N914. Whatever that means for you. That’s the main reason a bucket of N914 solution will look dirtier than an ONR bucket. It really doesn’t matter which one you use. Pick a color and scent you like lol
I'm curious. What do you think of using a chenille noodle wash sponge or mitt with a rinsless wash? I've used towels and the red and black sponges so far.
I use ONR as a spray and wipe for when birds make deposits... I also ruin my paintwork by using the blue industrial paper roll because i dont always have a microfibre on hand. My problem is that getting a pure wash instead of something with wax like a quick detailer is few and far between in the market.
Hi, great video !!! Theoretical question: is there any point to apply wax/sealant after rinseless wash ? What do you think about it ? Will the wax or sealant last or not ? Thank you for your answer.
Rinse less are really good at not degrading existing wax.. but I prefer a full proper wash if I'm going to relax. It won't be clean enough with rinse less
ONR leaves a polymer protection behind. I have stopped using it and switched for McKee's 914 because of it. When I am about to either polish or apply a ceramic coating, I don't want to have to worry about polymers on the paint. I feel they both work the same in terms of cleaning. Two things I would suggest to prevent swirls: 1. Prewash by doing a foambath and pressure cleaning. 2. Use a drying aid like a spray wax, or quick detailer when drying. If you do those 2 things, you will never scratch the paint and make swirls when you wash with rinseless.
McKee’s leaves something behind too. It’s just marketing saying it doesn’t. The fact is they both do as they don’t flash off 100%, but neither affect last step protection applied after.
@@jayhoughton558 Exactly, either product is going to somewhat dry on the paint and with the amount of cleaning power and slcikness both products have, all of the cleaners and lubricants won't just flash off. Regardless before a coating youd, Decon, polish and prep the paint.
@Alan Wong both are safe for ceramic coatings. I would try a small bottle of both and see which you like better. Soapier N914 or the encapsulating of optimum no rinse.
@Alan Wong minimally if they do and not long term. When I use them I dry with a drying aid, usually ceramic based, so it’s the toppers I use that give the hydrophobics.
What are the drying towels you are using in the video? I have been trying to find the perfect "second" towel for drying after either a rinseless or waterless wash and haven't found one yet.
Better comparison would have been Wolfgang Uber Rinseless Wash instead of N-914. The reason is that N-914 does not contain any polymers, is a pure cleaner.
I watched your original review, I have never seen you so apprehensive, big question is, would you ever use ONR if you had a hose and water a available? I have ONR but never really played with it
i was really pleased with the results. I will never do a full wash process with ONR or 914 but I will do what I did today again. IE just gentle wipe over in 5 minutes to make car like 90% clean.
@@ForensicDetailing did a maintenance wash on mine yesterday, got the same effect on my car as the original you did, with dirty rain last night, need it clean for a funeral tomorrow, so it’s a toss up between Touchless or ONR
Hey Jon, I couldn't get over how you were gripping the microfiber towel... Is that the New claw technique? Just joking you... After your vid a few weeks back on how to fold and use a microfiber I always do that now... I appreciate your vids thankyou
Regarding Yvan LaCroix... He is cheap (by his own admission) and he is using whatever products are given to him, or that he is being paid to consult on/represent. McKee's has been paying him to appear on videos, and his recent use of N914 has been as simple as that. It doesn't mean that ONR is inferior. They're both great products, but in my opinion ONR still has the edge. I think you missed a crucial step by not presoaking the car with the rinseless solutions from a sprayer before going into the contact wash. Doing so allows the solution to start emulsifying the dirt and other contaminants and lifting it off the paint. It is true that rinseless won't break down any heavy oils/grease on the surface, but it does do a great job with bugs and other contaminants as long as the car is regularly maintained and has a coating or a good base of sealant/wax. I know that non-neutral pH snow foams/traffic film removers are very popular in the UK. If you want to do that first and then use rinseless as your contact wash, I think that is a great option too. Too often people think that rinseless means you don't get as good of a clean, or that it means you don't use a pressure washer. You can (and often should) still use a pressure washer before you ever touch the paint when using rinseless. You don't have to when the car is just lightly dusty, but it is best practice to do so when the car is more heavily soiled. To me, I consider rinseless to be a "soap replacement" that doesn't need to be rinsed off. It also makes the drying process much safer, because the solution left on the surface provides more lubrication...which you can also supplement with your drying aid/topper/quick detailer of choice. When you use soap and rinse it off (and some people use a blower), you are relying only on that drying lubricant to protect the paint from any errant dirt on the car or in the towel.
it really does have a lot of potential I totally agree. I struggle to really see too much difference in the products, but im also using an old version of ONR.
Exactly, furthermore if you use it correctly (also with a reccomended sponge not mf towels, and presoaking it with a rinsless solution) the clean is the same and safer than a 2 bucket wash
I've been using both ONR and McKees N-914 a lot lately for rinseless washes. I don't have a garage and my washing sessions are a race against the clock and this method saves time. I'm not a pro and I can't tell the difference between the two products. I do recommend pre-treating the paint with a spray of the solution and allowing it to dwell to loosen up the dirt before the contact wash. Thanks for the video Jon.
I’ve got a garage but too much stuff in there to park a car in there and I have a big car so it would be tight anyway , I always do normal 2 bucket method outside and it can take me 2-3 hours for doing everything , I don’t have to race against a clock abc it’s not a problem
@@M.E63 I have to say it takes me at least 2 hours to do the exterior of my car even if I do it at a fairly good pace. I see loads of detailers on RUclips claiming to do their car in a very quick time, say less than an hour, tbh I don't believe any of them. Let's be honest just doing the wheels and tyres properly can take up to 30 minutes. I've watched plenty of professional detailers, you know guys who actually do it for a living, and believe me they do NOT do a car in 1 hour! I've learned over the years to take RUclips detailers claims on almost anything with a pinch of salt, let's not forget why they are even on RUclips - to make money! It's becoming more and more obvious with certain channels that it's all about how much they can make and not always about being truthful, sooner or later they all sell out. Trouble is we are not all idiots and I'm sure they think we are mugs, but we see you guys and know exactly what your game is! Some of them just lose their way, some of them forget why people subscribed to their channel in the first place, some of them have no clue why people follow their particular channel! Some of the go 'all Hollywood' and let their egos take over, some of them reach a level of subscribers where they can churn out any old crap and make shed-loads of $£€ so they start doing exactly that, and some of them put stuff on their channel that has nothing to do with the channels original or claimed content just because they have hundreds of thousands of subscribers. And don't get me going on these new 'shorts' videos, I mean how many time do we need to see someone snowfoam a car? Answer is zero because we know how to snowfoam a bloody car! It teaches absolutely sod all and is a pure cynical money-making scheme. I hate what's happening, some great channels have totally lost their way! Then of course there are all the freebies they get for plugging certain companies and products, not to mention actual payments which don't get mentioned, it's become impossible to tell truth from fiction in RUclips detailing-land these days making most of the content worthless. A pro-detailer who actually makes his living from that business but is willing to show you there actual real-life work as they do it is worth watching, Jim White from WhiteDetails being a great example or Sandro from Car Craft Auto Detailing, both pros with the highest standards of work who actually run a top-end detailing business.
Feel free to copy and paste this on any detailing channel of your choice, it's time they realised we are not idiots and know exactly what they are doing!
@@steverabbits Yh your right it’s impossible to do just the exterior in a hour, some claim they can do inside and outside in a hour, quickest I can do the exterior is 2 hours but once I done all the dressing and other little things we talking close to 3 hours, I really thought I was slow but obviously not, I do watch Sandro and he can take a week to do a car including correction and protection and I do understand RUclips and click bait and revenue and it’s hard to believe some things but obviously not everything
@@M.E63 Couldn't imagine spending 2-3 hours outside washing my car on my day off for it to get dirty again from the elements the next day.
@@M.E63 Iv done the exterior many times with a proper pre wash foam cannon bilt hamber, pressure washer, going around the car 6 times, hand wash, drying aid when drying, etc..in a little over an hour..ONR method im done in under 40 mins with full wheel and tire wash, without wheels and tires im done in 25 mins.
JON, I've only used ONR, the ORIGINAL. Here in the Hartland (USA) we have extreme conditions, both Heat, Cold & Snow. So weekly washes are necessary most of the year. I use the ONR with wax for washing, drying aid, cleaning interiors, in my steamer, etc. For about $20.00 (US) I can wash a car 500 times.
ONR is second to none. The wax version is great in winter as well.
Hi Jon, Yvan Lacroix said that unlike ONR, McKee's N-914 is a pure cleaner and doesn't leave anything behind. So McKee's is best suited for those not wanting to mask whatever coating they have on the car. As for instructions, you use it the same way as ONR. There is a little bit of wishful thinking with these products, even during a demo, Yvan would layer APC on top to help deal with bugs/etc. So I'm of the opinion this is a quick way to clean a relatively clean car as it struggles with baked on or greasy dirt. Still, given the recent weather, used it and didn't get any watermarks, so that's good. As for sponges, the BRS can't be used with other traditional car detergents, whereas the BGS can (as can the the Rag Company black sponge, but that thing is useless because being black you can't make out if there's any dirt in it).
Yes it struggles with baked on grease/dirt/bugs as do all the other ph neutral car shampoos so what is your point ?
As with the black sponge, if the dirt is not on the vehicle after using it, assume it's on the sponge.
@@MrViktordagur Dealing with your last comment first, when you dunk the dirty sponge back into the solution, the only real way to make sure that all the dirt has left the sponge is to visually inspect it, and trying to spot dirt on a black sponge is a bit challenging, obviously.
In this video Jon questioned the degreasing abilities of these types of product, and that is the context in which I was making my point. If you've ever watched a video demonstration by Yvan Lacroix, he tends to dismiss snow-foam (more specifically ph neutral snow foam which tends be what is favoured by the North American market) and then go on to claim that rinseless washing is "better" than the usual snow-foam pre-wash followed by a 2 bucket contact wash. So my point is, in a recent McKee's demo he reached for an APC to deal with bugs and grease thus contradicting his previous position. But, although I don't like his hyperbole, I still like using these types of products in certain scenarios (I have both ONR and McKee's).
@@KojakKronos i agree that ONR has poor degreasing to no degreasing ability. I can see it especially on a white car after it has rained and there is a film of grime on the car. During the summer, not an issue as the dirt is usually dry. Optimum Power clean is needed. I normally ONR wash first to get rid of any abrasive dirt on the car. Then follow up with Optimum power clean sprayed on surface, and wiped around with an ONR damped towel. I don't remember having decreasing issues with Car Soap, even if it is Ph neutral.
I would not say the black one is useless. Seeing the direst is trivial really with this method IMO.
ONR all day for me it's been faultless for claying and for removing garage dust as you do.... great product
I've been using onr for years now. I use a couple microfibers to wash, folded up to have 8 clean sides and usually clean about 1 panel per side. I don't put them back into my bucket to that the product stays clean in the bucket. I also spray sealant onto the wet panel (in my case Reload) and use a damp microfiber to spread and soak up the panel. Then I buff with a fully dry microfiber. I will also wipe down the door jams and and dirty areas on the interior with the stuff. The bucket I use has a gamma seal lid so when I'm done I seal it up and use it for next time. Its fast too, I dont have to dedicate a Sunday morning to washing the car, I can wash anytime - even in hot sun - in under 20 minutes.
I use this method too! It reduces / removes contamination of the solution with all the dirt you just removed! Four microfibres and a 2 x drying towels and I am done. Really handy when I am away from home or on holiday.
In this particular scenario I would have spray some solution 1st to get the dried on dirt & grime to loosen and/or encapsulate. Also the ONR can be used a quick detailer because it does leave something behind, it's called wash & "SHINE" were as the Mckee's does not, which is why you can use the Mckee's as a paint prep.
You do know you are considered the guru of car detailing, don’t you? You are approaching legendary status. We love you, Jon!!
I'm still just an idiot in my garage talking nonsense 😁
You are a genius; and please stop that talk about you being an idiot in your garage; some of us worship the ground you walk on, mate.
@@ForensicDetailing Can you recommend a car shampoo for heavy duty cleaning? which is the best quality? my car hasnt been washed in about 5 months and it is white :o
I have started using ONR on my Classic cars, mainly as it minimises the amount of water being applied to the body. As anybody familiar with classics know, they are not as waterproof as modern cars and have a lot of hidden water traps. I use the pre soak method and multiple microfibre towels and a spray wax as a drying aid. Despite the very soft single stage paints I have not noticed any increase in swirls or mating. Plus you can use it indoors in winter due to the limited amount of water and in direct sun in summer.
And that's the old formula ONR! New formula ONR is a stronger cleaner and it beads up way quicker. When I compared the new one directly to the old one on the same car, I was blown away. I love how it beads on the car. The Mckee's inconsistent beading even puts me off. Flat panels behave very differently to side panels. Of course that's personal preference.
ONR keeps the dirt largely in the media. However, after washing my two cars in about 20 minutes with the sponge, if I leave the bucket for a day. It will form a layer of dirt that is sticking to the bottom of the bucket.
I honestly couldn't do without the stuff. It's the only way I wash and very happy with the results. It's the best interior glass cleaner I've ever used. It cleans up 99% of interiors perfectly well. And it's a great polish remover for a non-coating LSP. Adds extra lubricity before claying with a fallout remover, And it's cheap as all heck!
When did they start making ONR with the new formula?
I always pre-spray each panel and use 8 microfibres soaked in the solution. ONR is my standard but I’m happy to try a newbie.
ONR pulls dirt out of the water better, making it sink to the bottom. N914 is a stronger cleaner, that’s why it makes the water flatter on the panel when you wipe over.
I love rinseless washes, though I use neither of these currently - I am using Griots Brilliant Finish, which is very similar in performance to ONR, but leaves less polymers behind and I also use Feynlab Pure Rinseless which cleans like nothing else and is wonderful as a safe polish removal aid on soft paints.
Also, they aren’t waterless washes specifically, they are rinseless washes. There was a good amount of water in your bowls! You still use water, but you just don’t need to rinse. That doesn’t mean that you don’t or shouldn’t pre-wash. On a dirty car, they are just replacing the regular shampoo portion of a wash for me, I will have still done a pre wash of some form.
Been using ONR for about 15 years now and recently got some N914 from Imran. I have noticed that ONR does effect the water behaviour of my LSP sometimes, no big deal and is only temporary. What interested me about N914 was their claim that it leaves nothing behind so won’t effect the water behaviour. You can pre-wash and they do say this quite often, then do the rinseless routine, I do that all the time. You can trust the technology in the rinseless washes, you won’t scratch up your paint, i never have have but of course rinse off the heavy dirt first. I still foam and two bucket wash with shampoo most of the time but will always do a quick rinseless when time is an issue especially in the summer. Rinseless is the best way to clean your car in heat.
Absolutely agree with you Chris. I've been trying ONR, Feynlab amnd Wolfgangs - I never wash it without doing a pre-soak (with the rinseless product) and then rinse with the pressure washer. The one time I've tried it without doing a pre-rinse with the pressure washer I have pre-soaked and let it dwell, then hit it again with more pre-soak before the contact wash - I'd never do it on a dry panel, that's gotta be a recipe for disaster. Following Yvan Lacroix's approach I also spray the panel with the rinseless wash product in it's QD concentration prior to drying.
It won’t scratch but it leave swirl marks
@@jal7068 generally it won't do any more damage than a regular 2 bucket wash IF you use the correct process. I wouldn't use cloths for example (I did when I started doing it but now I use a MF pad) and, if really dirty, rinse the pad out after one pass on each side. And you pre-soak the panel, and you have plenty of wash solution in the pad...and you use a QD to aid the drying.
ONR is one of the originals and still is the number one RW IMO. The latest version has increased lubricity. It's also a very safe product. The product is zwitterionic as well.
I’m a big fan of ONR for light dirt or dusty cars. I find it has its place. I do always tend to put it in a pump sprayer to pre soak as I don’t like going on dry! I also have around 5-6 synthetic wash mitts I use so I don’t do the whole car with just 1. I then spray the car again after washing so I’ve got plenty of lunrication for the drying process. I also think ONR have a few formula which is meant to be slicker but it’ll take years to get through my 32oz bottle.
My method with ONR is similar to yours Ben. Multiple clothes sitting in my ONR solution. Pre wash panel with solution in pump sprayer. I tend to squeeze most of the water out of the cloth before use.I then fold my cloth in to 8 and only use 1 side for 1 or 2 wipes depending on the panel. I always inspect the cloth after every wipe to see how much dirt is on it. I then use a clean side for the next wipe. When I’ve used all 8 sides the cloth goes in to a empty bucket for the washing machine. I’ve never had to re wet the panel before drying.
I always start at the top of the car and work down. I know John’s car wasn’t that dirty but he cleaned the wing with ONR from the top to the bottom and then went back up again. You’ve more chance of marring doing this. I find ONR great for a summer evening mid week wash.
@@SuperDuncan67 yes that’s exactly the time when i tend to use it. I might give the microfibre wash and fold method a go next time. I’ve never had any marring issues and my cars got black paint so it would stand out like a sore thumb.
Awesome coincidence! I commented yesterday about using rinseless wash being my friend in extreme heat conditions and today there is a forensic detailing video comparing rinseless washes!
I use both. ONR in the steam machine and for quick wash, clay, seal type of details, but for cleaning the paintwork getting it ready for polishing and a ceramic coating I find Mckees is a slightly better cleaner, and ONR a better lubrication wash. One capful of Mckees in a litre bottle of surfex HD cut 50:1 is an excellent interior wipe down cleaner with the apple scent of the Mckees a nice bonus
Nice one… I don’t see the big deal, it’s as good as ONR for me; but then again there is also a new ONR formula out as well. For those of us with no hose or pressure washer, Rinseless is a god send…
Hi Jon. There have been times when my car is dusty rather than dirty and I've wished there was something I could use for a quick clean. So I found your demonstration really interesting and useful. I'm going to buy some No Rinse and give it a go. Many thanks Andy
It's great for that andy
I used onr exclusively for over a year to see how it behaved. When using it with the ‘pre spray’ method it was very effective and no swirling was introduced. It was only in the winter months with mud and grit etc that I decided to change back to water and pressure washer. Interestingly as soon as I touched the paintwork with the wash mitt, the paint swirled up like crazy and I had to polish it! Don’t know why but it’s happened a couple of times now. I will be sticking to pressure washer unless it’s very light/quick to do.
I live in a townhouse complex where we can't use running or flowing water in our garage, so I have to basically do rinseless all the time.
I do a presoak with ONR using a IK Multipro 2 on the whole car. Then I use the ultimate black sponge to do a contact wash. At the end, I go over the car again quickly with the IK Multi and ONR to keep the car wet so I can dry it and reduce the risk of swirls and marring. This approach lets me stop wasting time doing panel by panel, and I can do the whole car.
The car is coated with Gyeon Can Coat EVO, so every 3-4 weeks, I'll use Ceramic Detailer as a drying aid panel by panel as I go around drying it. The ONR and Ceramic Detailer seem to play nicely together too which was something I was worried about.
It's pretty time efficient and the results are good.
I use onr and love it , and pretty good as a quick detailer
Another great video, Jon!
I just use ONR. Whatever it might leave behind isn't going to be there long, and is easily removed with their Paint Prep.
These days I'm using some type of Optimum LSP, which works great in conjunction with ONR.
I haven't used soap in years. I do still power wash beforehand if needed.
john always do humour. you're good at it and it adds to the channel
I think you're right on the ONR formula change - a video with YL referenced that people had found the N914 slicker so they responded. I normally used ONR for bird poop, but better half's car needed a clean and I didn't have much time. Used YL's method - Pump Spray, bucket with sponge/micro fibra, then QD as drying aid with the towel. (Used BH QD at 9:1). It looked pretty good to be fair. There's probably going to be water restrictions this summer so I'd better get used to it!
No idea what YL means
@@steverabbitsYvan Lacroix
Your observations are very in line with what I have observed.
ONR looks cleaner I believe due to the encapsulating it does. It pulls the dirt down in the bucket. Most rinseless washes do this except for N914.
N914 to me seemed more soapy, so I think it does clean slightly better, but I prefer ONR due to its polymer encapsulation technology.
N914 lays flatter on the panel for me. I think that again is because it works a bit different.
Both are great products though. It’s nice they are a bit different as people can try them and pick which they prefer.
Yeah same experience here. Been using ONR for a year or so and recently used Mckees, I found it was a little shampoo like in that it foamed up in the bucket a little where as ONR barely does and where I missed a couple of drips here and there it dried a bit like a traditional shampoo, this isn’t the case with ONR in my experience and I definitely find ONR encapsulates which is appealing.
@@pat_rickb8523 maybe try just a bit less product in the dilution?
I've noticed it seems a bit hit and miss on exactly what your describing.
Was just thinking it was me messing up dilution . Which is pretty stupid proof.
But yeah I think it's a hit and miss.
When I first used it , it didn't suds up and seemed to work a bit better than it does now.
Maybe it doesn't do to well with storage?
@@conwaysdetailing387 yeah good point. I’ll keep experimenting, I do like it but for me it won’t replace ONR it’s just a little better based on the experiences I’ve had so far.
@@pat_rickb8523 I may try it next time, about out of McKees
Very good info. I have recently delved into the world of rinseless washing. I initially tried P&S Absolute and love it to this day. Then got some Opticoat No rinse. Haven't tried McKees but got some DIY Detail which is very similar I have been told. My latest is the ONR Wash N Wax which is fantastic... I agree, the sponges are expensive but very effective, and a pre spray is always necessary for me, especially with the surfactant based formulas.
There's something interesting to add in your observation of the amount of dirt in the water. I've found that ONR cleans as well but I think it encapsulates and drops the dirt inside the bucket, so it looks cleaner in the bucket. I find that Wolfgangs behaves just like McKees in this sense (Imran's sent me some McKee's to try myself).
John, you're only scratching the surface. I use 914 almost exclusively. Always start with the pre rinse with pressure washer, then quickly spray a slightly higher concentrated version of the product around the car, go back with single bucket and dedicated rinseless wash mitt and wash light pressure but overall normal. Solution almost always dries on the car. Finish up with quick detailer and it looks just as good as any two bucket full on soap wash. Basically saves the time of rinsing the car and drying a very wet car versus a mostly dry one
This sounds like a better method with the pre rinse to minimise swirl marks and similar to what I've been thinking. I'll probably even use 2 buckets - one for the top section and the other for the lower section.
@@koolkat969 that works. Don't use a second bucket with water though it'll dilute the mixture too much
@@motiOn732 Sure....not using a second bucket with water to rinse the mitt. Cheers
we can finally get McKees in the UK ? YES !!
yes mate imran has it, link in description try the discount code too.
I want to call BS on McKee's not leaving "anything" behind. Their SDS sheet conveniently leaves out any ingredients (not sure how this is legal. The product has warnings on it, so by law you have to include ingredients of risk on the SDS sheet), which I'm sure would be shockingly similar to ONR
I've always thought the same thing.
I can go up to a vehicle with absolutely no water sheeting ability and it will bead up when I'm done using it lol
P and s has taken Rinseless to a new level, better cleaning ability and gloss than any other product on the market!
you do not have the means to test cleaning power or gloss so at best your speaking anecdotally. materials that leave nothing behind cannot effect gloss unless they burnish clearcoat like an abrasive. your talking "hype" language and that isnt the way we roll. the first thing I would do is compare costs of all these products and I tend to recomend the ones that give people value as well as performance. I suspect all these products use the same underlying surfactant and have small variations in the rest.
Nice vid and info as always. Thanks for sharing your pure unrefined thoughts :) Just because they are no Rinse washes, doesn't mean you cant pre wash, if the car is dirty enough to warrant it. I'd also use a bucket with a grit guard to reduce the chance of marring, as well as using chenille noodle mitts, if your like me and have nightmares spending £30 on a sponge.. Also a pre spray works a treat. These work, imho, best as an in between a "proper" wash, just to give it a quick clean when its not too dirty, and I got 20 mins. I find it quite a "dirty" wash as well. This is another tool in the box for summer as I can wash the car in direct sun light when its hot as a bonus with these.
That indeed is weird how Yvan Lacroix suddenly switched to promoting ONR to McKee's. He's his own person and doesn't work for anyone, but it's just sort of like seeing Ronald McDonald suddenly promoting Burker King. Just sorta weird.
Now he's on the DIY kick. I guess whoever pays him the most at the end of the day.
I live in a very dusty area (close to a farm) ONR is a god send in between proper washes to get rid of the dust
I’ve noticed something similar with Opticlean and Mckee’s Graphene Rinseless Wash.
I had been using Opticlean, but Amazon was out, so I decided to try the Mckee’s Graphene Rinseless Wash, as both seem to leave behind some protection. I noticed that the Opticlean solution seemed to stay cleaner, but my towels seemed to be dirtier. With the Mckee’s, the solution gets dirtier, but my towels seem to stay cleaner.
ONR is my favorite. I also use Wolfgang too. Big fan of waterless wash. I use 1oz in 32oz Zep spray bottle or my Marolex 1000 bottles 👍
I use ONR quite a bit and I always put a drop in my shampoo as a rinse aid. Agree hat it doesn'twork so well as a detailing spray.
Hey Jon. I actually use Carpro ECH20 similar product but use it differently! In my two bucket method, I use 30ml in the rinse bucket. It's helped me so much on hot days, no soapy residue on glass or paintwork. By far the product I couldn't live without now!
Can you explain the methodology here? You use standard shampoo in your wash bucket but then rinse your sponge in a bucket with ECH2O? What are the benefits here?
@@ImBarryScottCSS two totally different wash mitts. Clean water with ECH20 and a clean mitt.
Ech2o as a rinseless is better then both ONR and N914. The wipe off is so nice, no resistance.
Don't you find haze afterwards?
I alternate between rinseless and a regular washes on a weekly basis. The shorter time needed to do the rinseless allows me time to do the interior or some decon. I also always use a drying aid.
Interesting the Mckees released the dirt into the water, and ONR didn’t. If that’s the way the product works, Mckees has my vote!
ONR is designed to release the dirt and take it to the bottom of the bucket. I’m using OP’s product right now but I miss this feature of ONR.
@@tommyholt3465 I’m glad other people are experiencing this too. Onr definitely pulls it down much better than 914. Makes for a cleaner solution if you do one bucket method
Dirt is releasing it into the ONR too, but N914 holds it in suspension while it is dropping to the bottom of the ONR bucket. Split a car down the middle, wash one side with ONR and the other side with N914. The ONR bucket will look much cleaner. But if you pour them out slowly, you will see all the dirt at the bottom of the ONR bucket when compared to N914.
I’ve used Onr quite a lot but I’ve always pre washed and used a fresh microfibre for each panel I get why you did this test though for the viewers who don’t have access to free flowing water
A very interesting comparison. Looking at the bucket with dirty N914, it seems to me that a second bucket will be required with this shampoo.
People are scared to use rinseless wash but happy to blast the grit around the paint at 2000 psi with the jet wash. I've been using them for over a year now & mine swirl free, I do snow foam & rinse first & use rinseless as my contract wash.
You are correct in the price of the sponge. The N914 can paint prep for water based polishes. Nick from Mckees said that.
I do find the N914 cleans cloths out mire that I soak in them than ONR.
I'm wondering how ONR compares to DIY Detail rinse less.
As someone who uses rinseless everyday and have tried almost all of them. IMO the top 2 rinseless washes are feynlab pure rinseless and carpro ech2o. Feynlabs cleaning ability is unmatched, ech2o has great cleaning but the towel wipe off is so smooth, no resistance.
Echo I find dries in the panel too easily
@@ForensicDetailing you definitely won’t enjoy Feynlab then. You just have to work in sections.
Elevated Shine, did you use Drying Aid with Feynlab Rinseless so ?
What is your oz/gallon H2O ratio for ech2o? Seemed too rich for me for 1 or 2 gallon of solution and microfibers
@@XBOW83 I do, I like the extra lubrication
I use ONR for my business and mix it with distilled water. We have hard water here. Maybe try a separate video with distilled water and see IF it makes a difference. I have seen someone mixing a scoop of fine yard dirt/silt to see which one encapsulates better
Love ONR never used it as a pure wash but as a drying aid, visor(bug) cleaner, brilliant on Windows and for removing bird droppings. Often put half a cap in with my shammy..
I have been using both. I got n914 cuz of the crazy small dilution ratios. The waterless of 1:128 translates to like 15ml to a 32oz spray bottle.
However I can say n914 sucks as a quick detailer in a true waterless wash. No buckets. Just you and some mircofiber towels. I find myself having to damn near soak the panel to prevent scratching and to get the same results as onr with just a few sprays. I have to keep the tree sap off my car almost every 3days.
Now as a rinseless they are near the same for Me. However onr leaves a better shine for me. Do I care about left over polymer on car. No I live next to trees so I need that.
Have you used P&S Absolute? Superior product, slicker and cleans better.
I'm glad Imran / in2detailing finally picked up McKees as it was getting ridiculous with people selling half opened bottles of ONS for £60 on eBay
Great Vedio tanks for your efforts, i ONR is best so far as well i use FEYNLAB PURE RINSELESS which even desolve the breakdust and great TRF you should try as pre wash if you got your heand on it, In GULF we have supply chain issue and amazone price is 3 times of the actual cost which i don't find worth to pay
First time I used ONR I winced as I could feel the sandpaper like like feel as you did the first pass of the mitt. I've refined my use over time. I use it for light dusting and fairly regularly. I always pre spray with the solution and I will use a QD to remove any residual spots. Filthy car then a proper wash with shampoo. My car has swirl marks but they've always been there😂
Nice one Jon! BTW, the garage is looking amazing with all the new shelves 💥🙌🍺
No rinse does not mean you can't rinse before going for the contact wash. I pre spray with the rinseless solution in a pump sprayer. Pressure wash it off and then go for contact wash ( UBS or BRS with ONR). Mckees might be worth a try. ONR has had many updates since you've bought that bottle 😄
Yvan recently started a new project called DIY Detail. They have their own rinseless product now.
That guy would seem more trustworthy if he didn’t have 3+ brands where he sells the same stuff under different labels. Plus he looks like a pure snake oil salesman. ONR works but I’m just saying he doesn’t give the best vibe
I have found myself lately snowfoaming my car, rinsing off and then instead of a full contact wash I'm doing an ONR wash, then drying the car using ONR in a spray bottle at about 16:1 as a drying aid. It works really well tbh. My car is never mega dirty in fairness. I love the stuff and have ZERO marring on a recently painted panel so I'm happy it's safe enough for me.
That's the best method imo if you go rinsless. Or what I do is wash the car like normal than I use the rinsless wash as a drying aid. I just got the mckees because it doesn't leave polymers and my car has a gtechniq coating so I don't want extra polymers
When I used ONR, I made up the 2 gallon solution, then filled up a pump spray bottle to use as a pre rinse then went over the car with a noddle mitt that was slightly dripping.
Did a good job as a quick one bucket wash with grit guard obvs😄
Just started using Autoglym Quik Refresh and also just purchased some ONR. Decided I’d them with the brilliant Autoglym Instadry. I’m just after a reasonably clean and presentable car. Might have to buy some McKee’s rinseless wash and wax (Optimums version doesn’t seem to have reached the UK yet) to use weekly for an easy Winter wash.
Great stuff Jon. I've been experimenting too, haven't got round to McKee's yet but I've been trying Feynalb and Wolfgangs. The one thing I haven't done yet is bought myself to straight on to a dry panel more than once, I'm generally pre soaking with the product and pressure rinsing, then doing the rinseless wash and dry.
In the one instance where I did go direct in with the wash I definitely did pre-soak, and then applied more again prior to the contact wash. After watching Yvan Lacroix's video on it I definitely wouldn't take a dry panel approach.
Ive recently tried doing a pre wash with BH touchless then a rinseless wash, which seems to work well. Its quicker than the traditional method but without using the brush it doesnt clean quite as well, but a good compromise.
I have both and based on my usage N914 is superior in most ways. In clay lube, rinseless wash and being versatile such as being used as a glass cleaner.
Great video.
A good £10 sponge was the Kamikaze one; not sure if it’s still available at that price
I would only do one wipe with an eighth of a microfiber, or use the sponge. Also, I would rinse the car off with a pressure washer or use a sprayer with rinseless solution to presoak. The rinseless part is referring to the fact the product doesn't need to be rinsed off, not no pre-rinse is needed. With an ideal technique, its quicker and safer than a foam/2 bucket wash, from my experience.
I was literally searching this comparison 2 days ago. Great timing! I have both btw and I can’t decide yet which is best. 914 doesn’t seem to drag the junk to the bottom of the rinse bucket like onr so I wonder about it’s encapsulating abilities
N-914 Works better at cleaning cars, ONR works better at cleaning buckets
@@blahz7152 exactly, better yet try DIY Detail Rinsless wash, in my opinion the best on the market, similar to N-914 but better cleaning power, faster, releases dirt better from the wash medium
Jon - a quick question. I use DIY Detail Rinseless Wash - my windscreen suffers from horrible wiper judder when a protective coating is applied. So I use Glaco Ultra Compound on the windscreen to strip back any crap that has accumulated. The windscreen is completely hydrophilic - the way I prefer because there is no wiper judder. After using DIY RW, the water started beading off on the windscreen - wiper judder reappeared. I asked the DIY group if their RW contains any hydrophobic agents - they said no?
Whats your thoughts?
All the best.
Not sure m8. Would need to see it
I'm curious what folks think of the difference in amount of dirt coming off in the bucket, one compared to the other.
Would think with the ONR, less dirt in bucket means more dirt left on car, taken off during drying. Not saying that is a bad thing, I have no idea, but a definite difference in the two products.
Eddie Colon noticed the same thing with some other products (iirc the P&S Absolute did not pull dirt off wash media as well, but can't remember which product he was comparing it to).
What ideas do you all have in pros and cons, where ONR *appears* to leave more dirt behind? Thanks!
I don't know if you have a UV camera but an interesting experiment could be putting a UV protectant on your car and then spray both products on the vehicle and with the UV camera see which one took the most off. I think this would be the easiest way to see which has better cleaning power.
Foam the car and then No Rinse it. If you have a coating, that works amazing as a fast wash that’s amazing.
I bought the mkees as in2detailing been start selling it recently , reason I bought this one was bcuz it leaves nothing behind and can use it as quick detailer too or drying aid without leaving anything behind .
I think I will buy the newer ultra black sponge as I tried it with soft99 sponge and I think it causes swirls, onr does leave something behind but mkees doesn’t
Have you tried diy detail rinseless? I'm with you though buy whatever company yvan works for Currently
It would be intresting to try it on swirl free panel to see if it swirls your paint up going by there instructions
I think the ONR drops the dirt better to the bottom than the McKee's does, that's probably why the ONR water looks cleaner.
This is exactly why. It’s a huge benefit of ONR over N914. I have no issue doing a single bucket wash with ONR but wouldn’t with N914.
@@jayhoughton558 Yep saw a test on Reddit of this and the N914 just left the dirt floating around, whereas the ONR just dropped almost immediately to the bottom. ONR much better product just for this reason IMO.
@@jayhoughton558 and @se43 Id love to see a more formal test proving this. The “dirty water” of n914 is certainly consistent, even in my own use. What I haven’t seen, is evidence of ONR methodically placing all the “encapsulated” dirt at the bottom of the bucket. Does it really? Why can’t we see that in a video like this? With soooo much dirt mixed in the 914 bucket, it would seem an equal amount in the ONR bucket base would be clearly visible.
In my experience, I found 914 to have more cleaning power, but I agree that ONR will pull dirt to the bottom of the bucket. So now my method is to rinse my mitt in ONR but clean with 914
@@ninetres187 exactly my thoughts. I have used and keep on shelves most rinseless washes available on my market (Poland) like griots, ech2o, wolfgang, onr and n914. And n914 is the only one that does not stain the wash media. My guess is that it’s the only one that truly releases the dirt in to the bucket. I feel like onr is keeping all the crap in the sponge. My prefrence is to have a clean sponge when touching the paint and the lubricity does the rest. Not mentioning The bucket after a onr wash is sticky and hard to clean, whilst after n914 it just needs a quick flush. And still you can see the grime on the bottom with n914. So my guess is that the dirty colour of the water is not dangerous - just discolouration by the lightest dust particles that can not harm the paint especially with all the polymers. At least I’ve never had this issue and sometimes i just use a pump sprayer to knock down the heaviest dirt and not prerinse my car even though i know i should.
Here is a bug removal hack you may not think to do. Wash the front of your car with one of these solutions with the solution hot. Heat greatly increases solubility and significantly adds to the cleaning power. You can even take several wet hot towels and set them on the panel and leave them on for 5 or 10 minutes to soak and heat up the bugs. This works very well if you have black or dark towels and let the sun beat down on them and keep them hot. You will be amazed how soft and easily removed old dried bugs will come off after a hot soak.
Hinestly I’m thinking of using onr as the contact stage washing solution for its lubricity. But still keep the prewash stage alive. Sounds like a good combo
yer lots do mate. the rinseless is less frills less foamy etc but probably a better contect lubrication than traditional shampoo surfactants
I see that there are new waterless products on the market. Infinity Wax’s Zero water and Bouncer’s RCD - be good to have an updated “best waterless” video with talk of drought and hosepipe bans!
Interesting watching this with hose pipe bans...
1) using rainwater/greywater (limited in terms of chemicals put in there) then using a container/water butt to pressure washer
2) using these products?
3) waterless wash?
I don’t have the link at the moment but some guy did a test with actual dirt and ONR Vs N914. Basically showing that ONR pulls the dirt to the bottom of the bucket way better than N914. Whatever that means for you. That’s the main reason a bucket of N914 solution will look dirtier than an ONR bucket.
It really doesn’t matter which one you use. Pick a color and scent you like lol
25:36 yes, new formula for over year now
I'm curious. What do you think of using a chenille noodle wash sponge or mitt with a rinsless wash? I've used towels and the red and black sponges so far.
I've been doing some RUclips research and several chaps have confirmed a chenille noodle would be OK.
Try the Wash and Wax Optimum would be interesting to see what you think of that product
I want to like the ease of using a rinseless wash but, I don't like the results over a regular wash.
Me 2
Hi, I'm looking for rinseless wash without gloss enhancer...so I can top the wash with a wax or quick detailer with non problem..
either of these then mate
I use ONR as a spray and wipe for when birds make deposits... I also ruin my paintwork by using the blue industrial paper roll because i dont always have a microfibre on hand.
My problem is that getting a pure wash instead of something with wax like a quick detailer is few and far between in the market.
I love N914!
Would these methods cause swirls in a dry heat period such as we are having now in uk?
Hi, great video !!! Theoretical question: is there any point to apply wax/sealant after rinseless wash ? What do you think about it ? Will the wax or sealant last or not ? Thank you for your answer.
Rinse less are really good at not degrading existing wax.. but I prefer a full proper wash if I'm going to relax. It won't be clean enough with rinse less
ONR leaves a polymer protection behind. I have stopped using it and switched for McKee's 914 because of it. When I am about to either polish or apply a ceramic coating, I don't want to have to worry about polymers on the paint. I feel they both work the same in terms of cleaning. Two things I would suggest to prevent swirls: 1. Prewash by doing a foambath and pressure cleaning. 2. Use a drying aid like a spray wax, or quick detailer when drying. If you do those 2 things, you will never scratch the paint and make swirls when you wash with rinseless.
McKee’s leaves something behind too. It’s just marketing saying it doesn’t. The fact is they both do as they don’t flash off 100%, but neither affect last step protection applied after.
@@jayhoughton558 Exactly, either product is going to somewhat dry on the paint and with the amount of cleaning power and slcikness both products have, all of the cleaners and lubricants won't just flash off. Regardless before a coating youd, Decon, polish and prep the paint.
@Alan Wong both are safe for ceramic coatings. I would try a small bottle of both and see which you like better. Soapier N914 or the encapsulating of optimum no rinse.
@Alan Wong minimally if they do and not long term.
When I use them I dry with a drying aid, usually ceramic based, so it’s the toppers I use that give the hydrophobics.
What are the drying towels you are using in the video? I have been trying to find the perfect "second" towel for drying after either a rinseless or waterless wash and haven't found one yet.
in2detailing supersaurus
traditional quick detailers are not supposed to leave anything behind. its just for light cleaning
Not true
You should try the Feynlab pure rinseless.
I keep asking for your WOLFGANG UBER review…I think it’s better than bith these and it’s also dilutable for a brilliant QD
i will get around to it mate.
Better comparison would have been Wolfgang Uber Rinseless Wash instead of N-914.
The reason is that N-914 does not contain any polymers, is a pure cleaner.
I watched your original review, I have never seen you so apprehensive, big question is, would you ever use ONR if you had a hose and water a available? I have ONR but never really played with it
i was really pleased with the results. I will never do a full wash process with ONR or 914 but I will do what I did today again. IE just gentle wipe over in 5 minutes to make car like 90% clean.
@@ForensicDetailing did a maintenance wash on mine yesterday, got the same effect on my car as the original you did, with dirty rain last night, need it clean for a funeral tomorrow, so it’s a toss up between Touchless or ONR
Would have liked to see Autoglym Quick Refresh in the same test.
Hello Jon,
P&S enters the rinseless wash market with Ultimate. You know it ?
No tryed m8
Hey Jon, I couldn't get over how you were gripping the microfiber towel... Is that the New claw technique? Just joking you... After your vid a few weeks back on how to fold and use a microfiber I always do that now... I appreciate your vids thankyou
Onr or 914 which can be use on interior glass?
Both
Jon i drank these and had terrible diareah for days.
Regarding Yvan LaCroix... He is cheap (by his own admission) and he is using whatever products are given to him, or that he is being paid to consult on/represent. McKee's has been paying him to appear on videos, and his recent use of N914 has been as simple as that. It doesn't mean that ONR is inferior. They're both great products, but in my opinion ONR still has the edge.
I think you missed a crucial step by not presoaking the car with the rinseless solutions from a sprayer before going into the contact wash. Doing so allows the solution to start emulsifying the dirt and other contaminants and lifting it off the paint. It is true that rinseless won't break down any heavy oils/grease on the surface, but it does do a great job with bugs and other contaminants as long as the car is regularly maintained and has a coating or a good base of sealant/wax.
I know that non-neutral pH snow foams/traffic film removers are very popular in the UK. If you want to do that first and then use rinseless as your contact wash, I think that is a great option too.
Too often people think that rinseless means you don't get as good of a clean, or that it means you don't use a pressure washer. You can (and often should) still use a pressure washer before you ever touch the paint when using rinseless. You don't have to when the car is just lightly dusty, but it is best practice to do so when the car is more heavily soiled.
To me, I consider rinseless to be a "soap replacement" that doesn't need to be rinsed off. It also makes the drying process much safer, because the solution left on the surface provides more lubrication...which you can also supplement with your drying aid/topper/quick detailer of choice. When you use soap and rinse it off (and some people use a blower), you are relying only on that drying lubricant to protect the paint from any errant dirt on the car or in the towel.
it really does have a lot of potential I totally agree. I struggle to really see too much difference in the products, but im also using an old version of ONR.
Exactly, furthermore if you use it correctly (also with a reccomended sponge not mf towels, and presoaking it with a rinsless solution) the clean is the same and safer than a 2 bucket wash