I enjoyed your work disassembling the 445 bolster to show how the system works. Thanks for taking the time to do that. Good luck with the next few steps. I am sure working on cast is a bit scary.
Always interesting to see the blending of models and components with X231. When it comes to broken bolts and studs, I've tried a variety of methods as well. Had an old timer tell me one time not to even mess with any of those methods. He showed me that he could remove a broken bolt with a cutting torch without damaging the casting. He heated the bolt RED HOT, gave it a quick burp with the cutting trigger and splat, out came the bolt in liquid form. Cleaned out the hole with a tap and it was good to go. I'm still too nervous to try it on my own. Lol
I can do that, but mainly on larger bolts than these. It also helps when you’re not trying to blast them out of a one-in-the-world casting too lol 😂 It definitely takes practice to get good at, and you’ve also got to have a nice and clean torch tip to make sure your heat is being directed exactly where you want it.
Always appreciate your thoroughness, in this case making sure we see a similar teardown of the front bolster. Another channel might have not taken the time and just said 'it's not that hard' and left us hanging. Thanks again, and for the postmortem comparison.
Just beginning to catch up with the X231 project. Very interesting. You have a great shop there and very organized and clean. That is nice to see. Thanks for sharing.
Btw, sorry if I missed this, but when you use the word 'prototype', do you mean you own a prototype tractor from the factory or do you simply mean this is the original casting from your tractor?
Great to see you and Senior working together on X231. This was a very interesting and informative video. Thanks Toby and I look forward to your next video.
Always enjoy a video from "the new adventures of old Christine". I'm waiting for the start up vido and see what Christine has to say about things moving again.
I've used NPT tapered brass pipe plugs to re-do spark plug threads. The keen serts and heli coils leak in that situation and was not a good solution. But for your tank there, a cast iron pipe plug would work good. Either put it in loose and silver solder (braze) or put it in tight and stake the threads. Redrill and tap.
Aaaa, finely back to X231, I've been waiting to see how you will set up the mill to mill the hole for the front bolster. It's gonna be interesting.....
I really injoy when you compare the preproduction parts to the production parts . It shows that old school thinking. Not like today just let the costumer show the problem. Awesome video. Denis from Santa Rosa CA.
There are also even larger od solid inserts. If you can get the bottom on the mill it might pay to bore and tap it oversize in alignment with the other holes. Then thread in a bolt. Cut it off and drill and tap that. So that you dont end up outside the casting. Since your mill might not have the Y travel to allow a fly cut. You might see if the local engine rebuilders have their wet belt surfacing machine still. For a quick smoothing of the surfaces. Or take a piece of partical board with a smooth coating on one side. Screw thru that into two 2x4s to keep it from flexing. Use feathering disc spray to stick one big piece of sand paper down. I like the norton red heat 12"x 18" pieces for hardwood floor sanders. You can also glue those to the giant W beams you have
Very interesting story, I've never operated a M M tractor, but have seen them around. Back in my youth we knew a guy who had a M M married to a M FARMALL .It was quite a sight seeing him working in the field. Thanks for Sharing.
The places i knew of locally, within an hour of squatch are all closed up now, so he probably will have to ship it (insured plus digital images for cad saved at home). good to know there are places left in-country--california is a surprise but we'll take it :)
1/2&3/8 carriage bolts kinda. Has bombardier stamped on them. Thousands and thousands of them i do have. You need some i have you covered 😅😅 Nice job on the set up👍
Finding good rad shops is getting more and more difficult these days. The pandemic wiped a bunch of them in my area, some from the disease old sods got unlucky, some from lack of any business. Basically, if i want to fix anything for my brother or our fleet of vehicles, i either have to go commercial or drive hours to the closest that's well recommended. Luckily with you Americans and your big v8s :)), there's a decent supply of big aluminium rads that can be used, but for farm stuff they're basically only gonna last a couple of seasons before the stuff gets corroded or damaged. It's gotten to the point where i'm no longer looking at people repairing cores in admiration but looking at them to "steal" the trade, which is nuts, because if there's three things you don't do, it's chairs, rads and piss off the mother in law. As in, all three are on the same level of complication.
We told them not to, there were too many variables that they didn’t fully understand plus they weren’t super excited about the prospect of doing it so we told them we would handle it if they could give us enough material to work with 👍
I am going through the x231 playlist to get all caught up and l just watched the cylinder head video. I saw the machine shop installed one exhaust seat to bring it back up, but not the other 3. Question is, did that head already have hardened exhaust seats installed and one needed replaced, and if not why wouldn't they installed all new seats for today's unleaded gas? Love the content keep up the good work!
I believe you will be much happier with the keylock inserts. Helicoils do have their place the next step up from the keylock is the Rosan style which is super for high strength applications for suspensions, though they take a specific tool/reamer to make the hole
On that corner booboo, i've had that in the past and my solution was to mill a tiny pocket (less than 2mm, 1.2~1.3 mm) around the hole, then i cut threads and made a brass threaded insert + a lip that fit inside that pocket. A bit of flux and some roofing grade solder + iron was all that was required. I've had one leak, but i'm 99.9% sure that was me not fully seating the thing down proper, other than that, still works. Like most of the things i share, this wasn't my original idea, this is a repair i've seen done on an old tractor, somewhere around mid 1950's if the previous owner's tales were correct. If they did it and it worked, it's good enough for me.
OK, so I've been thinking about that prototype front bolster and the wollered out holes. I know you won't, but if it was me, I'd get some stainless all thread and make a holding pattern and set stainless studs into those holes with JB Weld. No chance or further weakening the casting. No chance of liquid getting down along side the threads. No more rotation in the hole, nada. Use nuts and washers on top and cruise on. It'll be painted anyway. No likely to show much or be noticed. Last for ever'ish 😁
Those keen zerts are the cat’s meow,,,, cat sells them as well ,,, I’ve got a rear bulldozer block to repair this summer,,, large keen zerts for that one ,,,
Stay calm. Plan your work and work your plan. You know she’s going to go back to testing your patience so don’t let her get your goat. You’ve got this! 🥸👍👀🔧🔨✅
speaking of MM afterthoughts, our UTU seemed like a fine machine, just the fact that it needed a driver was an afterthought! other minor things about lacking symmetry for clearance aren''t so bad as dangling by one bolt over a spinning PTO or an implement that can maim you😮 I still love that tractor anyway❤ Seems like a few other brands had a similar issue with operator stations until about 1965--farmall, ford, and JD of the 40s on had good spots for human operators (comfort debatable).😊
Around the 10:50... looking at the two pieces, it almost looks as if making the product assembly wider at the base was done just to reduce finishing efforts for those power steering 'tubes'. Less product effort means more efficient production processes and of course, a bit more profit. 🙂
I've been binging on this playlist the last few day's One thing that's got me scratching my head, is with X231 being an experimental, pre-production prototype.. is how on earth did it end up in general use? It seems incredible to me, was that just how M-M did it back then?
Thanks for the watch minutes! Minneapolis-Moline was very relaxed when it came to their prototypes, sometimes just abandoning them on the same test farm that they did their trials on, or selling them to M-M employees after they had finished with the development process. Here's the complete back-story on how we happened upon both of our M-M prototypes, and how close each of them came to destruction many times - ruclips.net/video/H4_Tt1EU-pQ/видео.html
Good morning, nice to see you working on the mm again interesting in how a prototype tractor turned to a regular tractor. Can you get back to me I would like some info on generator parts for an autolite generator
Hey dude like your plan for radiator hope you can find a core are the header plates steel or brass? Years ago you could get universal cores with plates that could be fitted or drilled to fit the tanks soldiered or bolted Your radiator guy may be able to fix the old one since it is not presurized system Forget the question about header plates I'm having a senior moment lol
Super excited to see some more moline progress! By chance do you know anything about the Cat DW6 or maybe make a video on the history of them? Super cool seeing rubber wheels under an old dozer. (Would be a cool thing for you to rebuild) keep up the great content 👍🏻
All I know of them is that they’re pretty rare and that I’ve never had the opportunity yet to see one with my own eyes, so there’s not much chance I’ll ever have an opportunity to show one on the channel here.
I’d use Time-Serts for those threads. I’ve had too many Heli-Coils pull out to trust them for permanent repairs. Not a fan of the way Keysert/Keensert anchor - I’ve seen a few chew out when backing a bolt out, but that was in aluminum.
I don’t have the available material to do anything as big as a time-sert or Keen-sert in this top tank, because the bolt holes are not even close to being centered in the casting bosses that are on the inside. Anything bigger than a Heli-Coil and I’ll be into the water with nothing left to hold the insert 👍
@@squatch253 Time-Serts are pretty thin. I figured if there was enough space for a Heli-Coil, a Time-Sert would work. I don’t envy you working on these prototypes, but sure appreciate the content.
What kind of gaskets dose the radiator core use on the flanges? My only concern is if the pitted areas might not seal from the top and bottom of the radiator tanks?
Great episode! You showed how MM prepared the front bolster for a wide front. Do you know if they actually made some wide front experimentation wide front tractors?
Hey pal - have you measured any cores that are non MM? Just looking at the sizes of things in the video, the Cat 22 rad core I’ve got out looks like it could potentially fit it there? Maybe there’s a core out there from a different manufacturer that’ll fit… just thinking out loud.
Given the radiator core mismatch heights, is there any way to take advantage of that extra 1 1/2" you have to make a pair of adapter plates to fit the other shorter core into what you have?
Yes, but I would also be dealing with the depth difference of the bottom header plate along with the shorter core, so the adapter would get pretty complicated pretty quickly. All potential scenarios still lead me back to having a new core made to fit the castings, as the easiest option.
Well that sort of makes sense, but is it the the steering gear acting on the quadrant gear that give the power to the steering or is it the piston? What is the steering gear doing if it is the piston that gives the power?
The steering gear that has the worm on the end performs two tasks - first and most basic is that it provides a solid mechanical link that bypasses the power steering side in case something goes wrong in the hydraulic system - you’ll at least still have manual steering. Second, is that the steering gear has a self-centering hydraulic valve built into it that responds to steering input from the operator - the valve opens in one direction or the other when the steering shaft is being rotated, and directs hydraulic fluid to the appropriate side of the power steering piston, which completely over-rides the mechanical worm link and gives effortless steering. Once the steering shaft stops rotating, the self centering valve closes again, cutting off the hydraulic pressure from the power piston 👍
So on the production model did they add some sort of timing marks on the piston and bolster gear in case there was an R&R performed this same thing wouldn't happen again?
There’s a procedure in the service manual that shows how to position the front wheels, and you then install the piston from a certain side (can’t remember which right now) and gives a measurement for how much of the piston should still be sticking out when the first tooth meshes. But if you didn’t have those specs, I could see how it would be a real trial and error process to get everything centered up.
We’re not doing any syrup this year - besides still having plenty left over from last year, our local arborists are discouraging tapping trees here this year because of the abnormally warm weather swings we’ve had this winter. We actually had a first sap run here 2 weeks ago, which is unheard of for this climate and a few people started tapping then. The risk with doing that so early though is that if the trees start to bud out and then the weather turns back cold again, the combined stress of also having been tapped could kill the whole tree. So this year, we’re sitting it out 👍
@@squatch253 yeah the weather is off a bit here also, we had an early warm spell a couple of weeks ago also, didn't tap anything then and stayed away from trees that showed signs of buds already because some of them are. We will done running this week probably with 400 gallons to boil. On Saturday and Sunday. 👍👍
Does the prototype sheet metal have room for the production ZB radiator with the slightly larger bottom plate? What about an adapter plate to fit ZB radiator core?
The ZB radiator has the smaller bottom plate, along with being 1-1/2” shorter so it won’t work inside the castings or grille sections. The prototype radiator has the bigger bottom plate and is the taller of the two.
Hey squatch I got a famall h and I need a distributor drive hub for it and I can't find one I was wondering where you know where I could get one its for the vertical 12v distributor the piece that goes from the distributor housing to the timing cover
X253 is the prototype crawler with the tracks, and it’s already been restored - that’s the unit that I brought to the Jordan, MN show last summer. X231 is the prototype wheel tractor, built about a year prior to X253 and was in a completely wrecked state when we got it.
Re-watch the 16:27 mark of the last Farmall H restoration episode, I told everybody what the next steps of the project were going to be - link to that episode right here - ruclips.net/video/JheigoQ9Vxk/видео.html
Keyserts or even better Timeserts are the best option for thread repair here Squatch. Heli-coils aren't the best .. my advice is to stay away from them in this application. Great to see more X231 content!
Heli-Coils are going to be the best for this top tank application, because I’m very limited on available material to create oversize holes in. I can show this better when I do the drilling on this piece in the next episode. Basically, if I oversize the original holes too far, I’m into the water with nothing left to hold an insert.
@@squatch253 I suppose I should have mentioned that IF POSSIBLE Timeserts are the best option. I couldn't really tell how much parent material there was in the casting. At any rate... great to see old equipment being brought back to life. Great videos & keep up the good content!
Yeah, I’m going to do actual sleeve inserts in the bottom tank because it’s all beefy solid cast. The top tank is poorly cast though, with most of the inside casting bosses so poorly aligned with the locations where the bolt holes have to be that the holes are nearly breaking through the sides of them already.
So glad to see x231 it's what got me hooked to your channel
Same
Same hear after that I've been glued to this channel
Mine wats the D2 Cat rebuild.
I love old machinery.
Me too
Me too
Always great to see Squatch and Senior working together to solve problems!
I enjoyed your work disassembling the 445 bolster to show how the system works. Thanks for taking the time to do that. Good luck with the next few steps. I am sure working on cast is a bit scary.
Thanks for the update Toby! Glad to see x231 back on the workbench to work on. Can’t wait to see what comes next!
Good to see you've got some help, and a roadmap to sorting out the radiator.
There is a lot going on in that bolster for sure. Really looking forward to the thread repair!!
Those key lock inserts are the best.
It’s great to see more of you and Senior working together.
Love seeing you and your dad tackling Christine's issues
It is fun to see you both working on projects together.
Always interesting to see the blending of models and components with X231.
When it comes to broken bolts and studs, I've tried a variety of methods as well. Had an old timer tell me one time not to even mess with any of those methods. He showed me that he could remove a broken bolt with a cutting torch without damaging the casting. He heated the bolt RED HOT, gave it a quick burp with the cutting trigger and splat, out came the bolt in liquid form. Cleaned out the hole with a tap and it was good to go. I'm still too nervous to try it on my own. Lol
I can do that, but mainly on larger bolts than these. It also helps when you’re not trying to blast them out of a one-in-the-world casting too lol 😂 It definitely takes practice to get good at, and you’ve also got to have a nice and clean torch tip to make sure your heat is being directed exactly where you want it.
Yes, I have seen my grandfather do that. Take cover for the splatter...
Always appreciate your thoroughness, in this case making sure we see a similar teardown of the front bolster. Another channel might have not taken the time and just said 'it's not that hard' and left us hanging. Thanks again, and for the postmortem comparison.
I really enjoy the fresh cast iron !!! Extra clean as to be expected
Just beginning to catch up with the X231 project. Very interesting. You have a great shop there and very organized and clean. That is nice to see. Thanks for sharing.
Btw, sorry if I missed this, but when you use the word 'prototype', do you mean you own a prototype tractor from the factory or do you simply mean this is the original casting from your tractor?
@@vanislescottyprototype means a factory project in this case
I am looking forward to seeing the thread repairs.
Great to see you and Senior working together on X231. This was a very interesting and informative video. Thanks Toby and I look forward to your next video.
I love the compare and contrast segments! Keep it up!
Excellent video it's nice to see you back working on x231 again . Keep up the great videos
3:20 "Thats water" was the most surprised sounding squatch I'v heard. Ole 445 got one up on you...3:45 Gotchu again!!!
one side water, the other kool-aid 😂
It seems that the front bolster has a lot of work to do. Has to handle a lot of stress. You produce very interesting videos. Keep up the great work...
Excellent guys cheers 🥂 😊
i think this is the project i started watching if it started a while before the beer can engine
I will be interested in seeing if you mill off the top of the broken bolts before trying to drill them out.
Always enjoy a video from "the new adventures of old Christine". I'm waiting for the start up vido and see what Christine has to say about things moving again.
I've used NPT tapered brass pipe plugs to re-do spark plug threads. The keen serts and heli coils leak in that situation and was not a good solution. But for your tank there, a cast iron pipe plug would work good. Either put it in loose and silver solder (braze) or put it in tight and stake the threads. Redrill and tap.
Aaaa, finely back to X231, I've been waiting to see how you will set up the mill to mill the hole for the front bolster. It's gonna be interesting.....
1 inch tall steel riser block (ring) with recesed bolts matching the casting, and extra holes to match the shorter radiator.
I really injoy when you compare the preproduction parts to the production parts . It shows that old school thinking. Not like today just let the costumer show the problem. Awesome video. Denis from Santa Rosa CA.
There are also even larger od solid inserts. If you can get the bottom on the mill it might pay to bore and tap it oversize in alignment with the other holes. Then thread in a bolt. Cut it off and drill and tap that. So that you dont end up outside the casting.
Since your mill might not have the Y travel to allow a fly cut. You might see if the local engine rebuilders have their wet belt surfacing machine still. For a quick smoothing of the surfaces. Or take a piece of partical board with a smooth coating on one side. Screw thru that into two 2x4s to keep it from flexing. Use feathering disc spray to stick one big piece of sand paper down. I like the norton red heat 12"x 18" pieces for hardwood floor sanders. You can also glue those to the giant W beams you have
Anxious to see your repair on that corner hole. Man that old iron repair is awesome
I look forward to this project more and more.
Always a good time when Snr makes an appearance!
I can definitely see where you got your craving for things being "Right, correct and proper" from 👌
Get Sr a 1” plunge indicator for squaring up that rad top😉that way he won’t have to fight the ball level!
With all thats going on in one casting,im not sold on the design,however your saving a piece of Moline history.
Great video thanks for sharing
Very interesting story, I've never operated a M M tractor, but have seen them around. Back in my youth we knew a guy who had a M M married to a M FARMALL .It was quite a sight seeing him working in the field. Thanks for Sharing.
For some reason, I totally enjoy the compare and contrast from prototype to production!
It's exciting to return to X231's restoration. I have enjoyed every video and the amazing way you tackle problems!
I would braze the lower tank cover, seal the surface, and then mill that flat. Always a risk of a big ol'crack when you heat that old cast up, though.
Thank You So much
This is the project that brought me to this channel; I'm so glad it's back. (The D2 and MM crawler were interesting too.)
Nice to see a little “normal” content back. I missed it. Glad you are both doing well.
Glad X231 is back. That’s how I found your channel.
Excellent episode about a truly rare machine! Well done, carry on!
The Brassworks in Paso Robles, CA can build any custom heat exchanger. Helps to send them your old one.
They did a great job on my 1917 IHC.
The places i knew of locally, within an hour of squatch are all closed up now, so he probably will have to ship it (insured plus digital images for cad saved at home). good to know there are places left in-country--california is a surprise but we'll take it :)
Love the videos and the progress! The keenserts are a more robust option for a longer term repair!
❤x231
1/2&3/8 carriage bolts kinda. Has bombardier stamped on them. Thousands and thousands of them i do have. You need some i have you covered 😅😅
Nice job on the set up👍
Finding good rad shops is getting more and more difficult these days. The pandemic wiped a bunch of them in my area, some from the disease old sods got unlucky, some from lack of any business. Basically, if i want to fix anything for my brother or our fleet of vehicles, i either have to go commercial or drive hours to the closest that's well recommended. Luckily with you Americans and your big v8s :)), there's a decent supply of big aluminium rads that can be used, but for farm stuff they're basically only gonna last a couple of seasons before the stuff gets corroded or damaged. It's gotten to the point where i'm no longer looking at people repairing cores in admiration but looking at them to "steal" the trade, which is nuts, because if there's three things you don't do, it's chairs, rads and piss off the mother in law. As in, all three are on the same level of complication.
Surprised they didn't bore and cut that snap ring groove when they brazed up the end of that casting.
We told them not to, there were too many variables that they didn’t fully understand plus they weren’t super excited about the prospect of doing it so we told them we would handle it if they could give us enough material to work with 👍
I am going through the x231 playlist to get all caught up and l just watched the cylinder head video. I saw the machine shop installed one exhaust seat to bring it back up, but not the other 3. Question is, did that head already have hardened exhaust seats installed and one needed replaced, and if not why wouldn't they installed all new seats for today's unleaded gas? Love the content keep up the good work!
I believe you will be much happier with the keylock inserts. Helicoils do have their place the next step up from the keylock is the Rosan style which is super for high strength applications for suspensions, though they take a specific tool/reamer to make the hole
It is mind boggling when I think about making the casting pattern for the bolster when there was no CAD, CNC or 3D printing.
Just all the machining steps alone would’ve been a lot - the more I look at this piece of the tractor the more I see that had to be done 👍
On that corner booboo, i've had that in the past and my solution was to mill a tiny pocket (less than 2mm, 1.2~1.3 mm) around the hole, then i cut threads and made a brass threaded insert + a lip that fit inside that pocket. A bit of flux and some roofing grade solder + iron was all that was required. I've had one leak, but i'm 99.9% sure that was me not fully seating the thing down proper, other than that, still works. Like most of the things i share, this wasn't my original idea, this is a repair i've seen done on an old tractor, somewhere around mid 1950's if the previous owner's tales were correct. If they did it and it worked, it's good enough for me.
OK, so I've been thinking about that prototype front bolster and the wollered out holes. I know you won't, but if it was me, I'd get some stainless all thread and make a holding pattern and set stainless studs into those holes with JB Weld. No chance or further weakening the casting. No chance of liquid getting down along side the threads. No more rotation in the hole, nada. Use nuts and washers on top and cruise on. It'll be painted anyway. No likely to show much or be noticed. Last for ever'ish 😁
Those keen zerts are the cat’s meow,,,, cat sells them as well ,,, I’ve got a rear bulldozer block to repair this summer,,, large keen zerts for that one ,,,
No shortage of work yet to do!
I wonder if soaking that head tank in evaporust for a week would break those rusty bolts free.
Stay calm. Plan your work and work your plan. You know she’s going to go back to testing your patience so don’t let her get your goat. You’ve got this! 🥸👍👀🔧🔨✅
X231 is back, folks! It's my favorite content as an amateur machinist.
speaking of MM afterthoughts, our UTU seemed like a fine machine, just the fact that it needed a driver was an afterthought! other minor things about lacking symmetry for clearance aren''t so bad as dangling by one bolt over a spinning PTO or an implement that can maim you😮 I still love that tractor anyway❤ Seems like a few other brands had a similar issue with operator stations until about 1965--farmall, ford, and JD of the 40s on had good spots for human operators (comfort debatable).😊
Well done Tobie
Around the 10:50... looking at the two pieces, it almost looks as if making the product assembly wider at the base was done just to reduce finishing efforts for those power steering 'tubes'. Less product effort means more efficient production processes and of course, a bit more profit. 🙂
I miss X231, that was what you were working on when I joined your channel.
That was same for me too mate
For the age they were very advanced in the engineering
I've been binging on this playlist the last few day's
One thing that's got me scratching my head, is with X231 being an experimental, pre-production prototype.. is how on earth did it end up in general use?
It seems incredible to me, was that just how M-M did it back then?
Thanks for the watch minutes! Minneapolis-Moline was very relaxed when it came to their prototypes, sometimes just abandoning them on the same test farm that they did their trials on, or selling them to M-M employees after they had finished with the development process. Here's the complete back-story on how we happened upon both of our M-M prototypes, and how close each of them came to destruction many times - ruclips.net/video/H4_Tt1EU-pQ/видео.html
many years ago Erie Radiator in Buffalo, could make cores for radiators, they may need dimensions and patterns, but they could make anything, radiator
Good morning, nice to see you working on the mm again interesting in how a prototype tractor turned to a regular tractor. Can you get back to me I would like some info on generator parts for an autolite generator
Good content. 👍
Interesting. 👋👋👍🏻👍🏻
Hey dude like your plan for radiator hope you can find a core are the header plates steel or brass? Years ago you could get universal cores with plates that could be fitted or drilled to fit the tanks soldiered or bolted Your radiator guy may be able to fix the old one since it is not presurized system Forget the question about header plates I'm having a senior moment lol
I am needing to get a radiator core made for a McCormick Deering WD-40. Can you share your source? Thanks, love you work.
Super excited to see some more moline progress! By chance do you know anything about the Cat DW6 or maybe make a video on the history of them? Super cool seeing rubber wheels under an old dozer. (Would be a cool thing for you to rebuild) keep up the great content 👍🏻
All I know of them is that they’re pretty rare and that I’ve never had the opportunity yet to see one with my own eyes, so there’s not much chance I’ll ever have an opportunity to show one on the channel here.
👍🚜
I’d use Time-Serts for those threads. I’ve had too many Heli-Coils pull out to trust them for permanent repairs. Not a fan of the way Keysert/Keensert anchor - I’ve seen a few chew out when backing a bolt out, but that was in aluminum.
I don’t have the available material to do anything as big as a time-sert or Keen-sert in this top tank, because the bolt holes are not even close to being centered in the casting bosses that are on the inside. Anything bigger than a Heli-Coil and I’ll be into the water with nothing left to hold the insert 👍
@@squatch253 Time-Serts are pretty thin. I figured if there was enough space for a Heli-Coil, a Time-Sert would work. I don’t envy you working on these prototypes, but sure appreciate the content.
Fill that ovesize hole with silicone bronze and rill n tape it to thee correct size
Me too.
What kind of gaskets dose the radiator core use on the flanges? My only concern is if the pitted areas might not seal from the top and bottom of the radiator tanks?
Great episode! You showed how MM prepared the front bolster for a wide front. Do you know if they actually made some wide front experimentation wide front tractors?
I would assume they likely did, but we don’t have any examples or archive photos of it.
Hey pal - have you measured any cores that are non MM? Just looking at the sizes of things in the video, the Cat 22 rad core I’ve got out looks like it could potentially fit it there? Maybe there’s a core out there from a different manufacturer that’ll fit… just thinking out loud.
Hey Toby,,great video. Really enjoyed the comparison. Now I gotta binge watch the X231 series. By the way,,,how's 1113?
You have a big hurdle ahead of you but between the two of you it will be figured out.
Given the radiator core mismatch heights, is there any way to take advantage of that extra 1 1/2" you have to make a pair of adapter plates to fit the other shorter core into what you have?
Yes, but I would also be dealing with the depth difference of the bottom header plate along with the shorter core, so the adapter would get pretty complicated pretty quickly. All potential scenarios still lead me back to having a new core made to fit the castings, as the easiest option.
🤗❤️👍
Well that sort of makes sense, but is it the the steering gear acting on the quadrant gear that give the power to the steering or is it the piston? What is the steering gear doing if it is the piston that gives the power?
The steering gear that has the worm on the end performs two tasks - first and most basic is that it provides a solid mechanical link that bypasses the power steering side in case something goes wrong in the hydraulic system - you’ll at least still have manual steering. Second, is that the steering gear has a self-centering hydraulic valve built into it that responds to steering input from the operator - the valve opens in one direction or the other when the steering shaft is being rotated, and directs hydraulic fluid to the appropriate side of the power steering piston, which completely over-rides the mechanical worm link and gives effortless steering. Once the steering shaft stops rotating, the self centering valve closes again, cutting off the hydraulic pressure from the power piston 👍
So on the production model did they add some sort of timing marks on the piston and bolster gear in case there was an R&R performed this same thing wouldn't happen again?
There’s a procedure in the service manual that shows how to position the front wheels, and you then install the piston from a certain side (can’t remember which right now) and gives a measurement for how much of the piston should still be sticking out when the first tooth meshes. But if you didn’t have those specs, I could see how it would be a real trial and error process to get everything centered up.
Hey Squatch, were running Sap here in the north east just wondering if you guys started yet
We’re not doing any syrup this year - besides still having plenty left over from last year, our local arborists are discouraging tapping trees here this year because of the abnormally warm weather swings we’ve had this winter. We actually had a first sap run here 2 weeks ago, which is unheard of for this climate and a few people started tapping then. The risk with doing that so early though is that if the trees start to bud out and then the weather turns back cold again, the combined stress of also having been tapped could kill the whole tree. So this year, we’re sitting it out 👍
@@squatch253 yeah the weather is off a bit here also, we had an early warm spell a couple of weeks ago also, didn't tap anything then and stayed away from trees that showed signs of buds already because some of them are. We will done running this week probably with 400 gallons to boil. On Saturday and Sunday. 👍👍
Does the prototype sheet metal have room for the production ZB radiator with the slightly larger bottom plate? What about an adapter plate to fit ZB radiator core?
The ZB radiator has the smaller bottom plate, along with being 1-1/2” shorter so it won’t work inside the castings or grille sections. The prototype radiator has the bigger bottom plate and is the taller of the two.
Hey squatch I got a famall h and I need a distributor drive hub for it and I can't find one I was wondering where you know where I could get one its for the vertical 12v distributor the piece that goes from the distributor housing to the timing cover
similar radiator core to a McCormick Deering ?
Ever use Timeserts? Expensive, but nice.
Not yet.
I am betraying my ignorance here. Wasn’t X231 a prototype tracked machine? If so, why does it need a steering mechanism?
X253 is the prototype crawler with the tracks, and it’s already been restored - that’s the unit that I brought to the Jordan, MN show last summer. X231 is the prototype wheel tractor, built about a year prior to X253 and was in a completely wrecked state when we got it.
@@squatch253 I had everything mixed up. :-(
What does S235 mean? 🤔
can I just ask how many times have you walked into those hanging painted items? :)
Stopped counting 3 months ago 🤣
I've been wondering that for ages. Think I'd have had to move them
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What r u waiting for on preperation H?
Re-watch the 16:27 mark of the last Farmall H restoration episode, I told everybody what the next steps of the project were going to be - link to that episode right here - ruclips.net/video/JheigoQ9Vxk/видео.html
@@squatch253 thanks
Its no different than say a date night with the wife or a lady you just met.... one shortcut is going home with a frown on the face
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x231 does not go easily.
Keyserts or even better Timeserts are the best option for thread repair here Squatch. Heli-coils aren't the best .. my advice is to stay away from them in this application. Great to see more X231 content!
Heli-Coils are going to be the best for this top tank application, because I’m very limited on available material to create oversize holes in. I can show this better when I do the drilling on this piece in the next episode. Basically, if I oversize the original holes too far, I’m into the water with nothing left to hold an insert.
@@squatch253 I suppose I should have mentioned that IF POSSIBLE Timeserts are the best option. I couldn't really tell how much parent material there was in the casting. At any rate... great to see old equipment being brought back to life. Great videos & keep up the good content!
Yeah, I’m going to do actual sleeve inserts in the bottom tank because it’s all beefy solid cast. The top tank is poorly cast though, with most of the inside casting bosses so poorly aligned with the locations where the bolt holes have to be that the holes are nearly breaking through the sides of them already.