A. Somebody get that man a spring loaded tap follower :) B. Awesome stuff on the X231 restoration (I wonder if a left handed pilot drillbit might have unscrewed the old left in screw if it hung up on it) C. Time to pop open that poor vaccum and put a few drops of 3in1 oil on those bearings...or maybe some moly grease...sounds like the hounds of hell when you shut it off Keep em coming!!!!
Spring loaded tap followers are under $20.00. Better quality under $40. A spotting drill would be called for in this case also. Not very expensive either.
When people talk trash about Helicoils, I always ask what the problem with them is. I have heard people say that if they were any good, the factory would install them. Many manufacturers of hydraulic rock hammers use them in the main body studs and that is an extreme environment. And putting them in aluminium makes the threads stronger. Other than the occasional pulled insert, I just don't see the problem.
Ford Motor Co. puts a lot of Heli-Coils in aluminum housings for added strength and wear resistance during the manufacturing process. We also used Heli-Coils on everything but aluminum cylinder head spark plug hole repair. Always had good results with them 👍
Helicoils get a bad rap because they’re expected to work perfectly in crooked, wallowed holes that have been drilled by hand under awful conditions and then tapped by hand without a tap guide. When they are used in straight, round holes with straight, tight threads they work great. Even Keen-serts can fail in poor conditions.
Professional machinist and prototyping foundry tool builder here, and we see helicoils specd on OEM housings ALL the time. I would say mostly on Aluminum but sometimes in grey iron too. Usually not on Ductile or ADI cast iron because the thread strength is better. Squatches parts are almost certainly grey iron and they will be much improved with the coils.
Noticed right off that ”Squatch sounds off today” so microphone system must be pretty accurate. Great camera angles , as always! Even though it’s not “perfect” it’s still amazing how good it looked after Squatch finished up with the milling. My shop vac also sounds like a dying goose………..lmao!
In my 36 year aerospace career as a machinist engineering tech fab person I have installed thousands of helicoil inserts of all sizes down to 2-56 size which we made in the shop cause we couldn't get them. A good little dab of thread locker goes a long way to keep them in. Just make sure it dries before you install the fastener so you don't lock it in too.
I've got a top tank and bottom tank for a '27 John Deere D aka "Christine 2.0" or as I have dubbed it "DEEEEP POCKETS"... Both need resurfacing. Problem is I don't think the top tank would fit in your mill. It's quite large! Nice work, Squatch!
Thanks for the video Toby! You’re right in my realm of machining with this. Used them in holes to hold buses to the table many times and they work. Plus making vise jaws and fixtures milling them to size. Thanks again and can’t wait to see what comes next!
That went really well, Toby. Had you considered Easy-Outs? I don’t mean the cheap, nasty, left-hand threaded ones, I mean the square edge style. I have had a lot of success with them. The important thing is to have the hole properly centred - which you did with your Milling Machine - and possibly a little heat cycle. The Vacuum Cleaner was hilarious!
Toby, you do good work. Highlightigng Haydenc2742's B comment, I have had good fortune using reverse flute bits to extract bolts when I have taken the time to fixture and square the part such as you have. I step up from small bit not skipping sizes. When I get between half depth and botton, I start varying pressure on drill quill. Some times it will bite and screw right out. I also use a tailstock center drill to ensure the first bit does not wander off center. Have a great day!
Great episode. As we learned in the behind the scenes episode about the importance of comments I wanted to leave something here. Also, I’m conflicted whether to move my membership higher to help afford a new vacuum or hope you can include this vacuum in every episode.
Try stainless steel fasteners it will help eliminate the electrolysis between the steel and aluminum which causes the corrosion/ rust in the first place.😊
You remind me of my cousins late husband, he was a cabinet maker and wood carver. When he was working it was the job that mattered, it certainly came before his consideration of time spent on the job. 👍
The top tank is one of the few production model ZB pieces that were used on this tractor, thus the "10A" casting number. Because X231 was still loosely based on the previous ZB, a few of those pieces still found their way over where the dimensions were close enough to serve the purpose - even the crankshaft in X231's engine still has the old "RE-xxx" casting number from the ZB.
1:00 Squatch, no showing the precision bubble level use as a final pre-bolt down procedure.? 1:19 AHHH, THERE IT is. 😅 I'm looking forward to this episode... 22:30 not disappointed, now onto the bolster section of the radiator...
This I think is the best ever episode. Brilliant demonstration and explanation of the working procedure. Execution was silky smooth but that would all be down to the preparation. I bet making those brackets and then levelling and plumbing the work took ages, but it was well worth it.
Thanks! Yes, Senior and I both worked on the setup, and between fab’ing the brackets and then leveling/plumbing the tank it was a full day and a half of prep work from both of us 👍
The reason you're projects come out awesome is because of your thought process and the time you take to attract that particular project. Time and knowledge is what makes your projects turn out the way they do . Example j1113 1936 ? D2 . You took a parts tractor and turned it into a operating gem . Christine the witch craft tractor will turn out like j1113 an operating gem . Denis from Santa Rosa CA
I've put many thread repair coils in at a previous job. Many times, if the plate was aluminum, and the hole was used repeatedly, coils would be used right away. They're much stronger than the aluminum threads. If a hole got worn to the point a coil wouldn't work, a solid insert was used.
Im thinking somewhere on youtube is a shopvac restorer who uou could collaborate with. 😂 Another great video. Now its time to go off and do my own work.
I look forward to the day we get to see a bridgeport style mill in your shop, i couldn't be without mine now. I use a shop vac to clean up any chips on my milling machines, I see so many on RUclips using air and blowing them all over the shop and just think WHY ?!?!
I know of a lot of manufacturers that used a Glyptal coating in their cooling systems, if you were to keep the same coolant in there for the next 20 years without changing it I'd be concerned but it'll greatly improve the lifespan of the radiator parts without little to no difference in engine cooling. You'll be glad you did.
Nice work, the smal milling machine perform great with the cutter. But how you decide to only drill the Brocke bolt out and recut the threads, or Drill it total and set an Helicoil? And yes, i watched the strugle with the brocken tap ^^
We learned our lesson with trying to get just the broken bolts out of the bottom bolster casting - the bolts were so rusted in that we caused more damage to the holes by trying to save them. So this time we went straight to over-sizing them and installing new threads.
It’s sounded like that for years now, and at this point I’m better off just running it as-is until it quits because “time is money” as they say, and I’ll be further ahead just replacing it with a new one than spending any time at all stepping away from generating paying video content for the feeds here, trying to quiet that old motor down 👍
Helicoils, the original ones, made in Germany -not the offest brand chinesium- are worth their weight in gold. If mounted right- the original kit comes with instructions, drill, tap, setting and de pinning tool, three length of inserts. I needed to fix some M5 on my bike- it was a breeze. I definetly became a fan. Happy wrenching!
Great vid on how to Helicoil the right way. My out look on life improved the day I found out that McMaster sells replacement coils in longer than standard lengths.
Christine's top cast iron radiator tank looks like a piece of artwork. Member question , were all the Minneapolis Moline cast iron castings so beautiful ? Or was it just the prototypes that got such beautiful detailing .
Many years ago when I was apprenticing in aviation I had a Heli-Coil wind out of a lower spark plug hole with the plug. Champion recommended an anti-seize to be used that was mostly moly and graphite. I still have the remainder of that bottle that my dad had, its probably 60 years old. That little bottle coared thousands of plugs so you can see how little was needed. I don't use it on new plugs that are plated but do use it to help out electrical connections.
Thought I commented on this one before, but I can't find it so I will leave another. I thought you would have used an end mill to drill out your bolts, as they do not flex, But I think you answered it a little later as you dont have a wide selection of sizes yet. But in the bottom tank repair I was wondering if you coat the milled gasket surface with a light coat of oil or grease to keep it from rusting again. Especially since it will be out in the weather for transport to the Fab / repair shop.
Instead of milling that whole surface flat, my cousin taught me a trick. He would sand blast the surface, clean it really well, then spread JB Weld on it with a putty knife to fill in the lowest spots. Then mill it flat. The JB Weld makes it so you do not have to mill so much off. Surprisingly the JB Weld holds up too. He has engines still running that he did that to the head surface 15 years ago with no problems yet.
I remember wondering why you didn’t glyptal the inside of the block of Swamp Angel. Obviously you wouldn’t want it on the sleeves, but all that rust plugging passages would reduce cooling far more than paint (and you want to cool the liners anyway). My thought is, since you don’t rum straight water like they used to, you’re not going to get rust in there.
That must be the universal mating call of the shop vac in the wild because mine sounds exactly the same on certain days. I have never had an issue with Heli-Coils as long as the hole is on size and drilled straight. I like the lock type inserts as well, but they have their place. That little mill you have does a pretty decent job from the looks of it. I love my Bridgeport mill, but some of the other brands do a little better job because they have more mass and less chatter to deal with on tough materials or heavy cuts. Buy as big of a machine as you can find or afford with the longest travel and table size. I'm always running out of travel or table width on my 9"x42". I also added a riser to gain 8" of vertical travel, which was very helpful. Still some decent deals out there on used machines if you know what to look for. Can't wait to see this 'ole girl painted up and running again Toby!
You can get broken off bolts burned out with an EDM machine very reasonable nowadays. They leave the threads intact. They even have portable machines that come to your location.
HEAT TRANSFER AND GLYPTAL: the cooling fins are thin, with lots of air flowing past. The tanks are thick cast iron with no air flowing through. Heat loss through the fins is 99% or more, so Glyptal will have almost no sffect on cooling - that's why it was added to production tractors.
If you have to drill out something that is harder than a normal drill bit, Go get some cheap carbide-tipped masonry bits and reshape the tips to the same pitch and angle as a normal drill bit. They can be reground with a normal grinder but it just takes a while. They are amazing for drilling out hard-to-work with materials.
Helicoils works great . Hole prep is a must. The leading edge thread coil has to be set below the first thread. And do not use old bolts with any kind of rolled threads. I used them a ton on aircrafts along with slim cert king sert. And more.
A simple old-time cheat for dealing with redoing fastener holes that could go into water/fluid passages if oversized/rethreaded deeper is to simply reverse them from being bolt holes to studs. Rethread them as needed and then epoxy the stud in at just over finger tight and call it good. I've done many over the years and never had one leak.
My preferred thread insert is a Timesert. It's a thin, threaded sleeve with a countersunk flange on top. They are hard to even detect when installed properly, but they require using the specialized installation tools.
I enjoy the deep throaty sound of the H’s and M’s but the shutdown of your vacuum provides comic relief. Thanks for the videos.
A. Somebody get that man a spring loaded tap follower :)
B. Awesome stuff on the X231 restoration (I wonder if a left handed pilot drillbit might have unscrewed the old left in screw if it hung up on it)
C. Time to pop open that poor vaccum and put a few drops of 3in1 oil on those bearings...or maybe some moly grease...sounds like the hounds of hell when you shut it off
Keep em coming!!!!
Spring loaded tap follower needs to get in his toolbox, for sure.
and a tap follower is cheap!
Hayden,, I too howled with laughter each time the vacuum was shut off, and thought the same thing as you 😂
"Zoom-spout-oiler" to the rescue !
Spring loaded tap followers are under $20.00. Better quality under $40. A spotting drill would be called for in this case also. Not very expensive either.
I have one of those vacuums that has been howling like that for at least 15 years. I'm still waiting for it to fall.
X231 is why I came to your channel. You drug me into cat restoration, which I loved. Thanks for sharing this content squatch.
I’ve got the same vacuum by my mill and it make the same weird sound when you shut it off 😂
Now for quick episode on lubricating the vacuum motor that is howling for attention 😂
When people talk trash about Helicoils, I always ask what the problem with them is. I have heard people say that if they were any good, the factory would install them. Many manufacturers of hydraulic rock hammers use them in the main body studs and that is an extreme environment. And putting them in aluminium makes the threads stronger. Other than the occasional pulled insert, I just don't see the problem.
Ford Motor Co. puts a lot of Heli-Coils in aluminum housings for added strength and wear resistance during the manufacturing process. We also used Heli-Coils on everything but aluminum cylinder head spark plug hole repair. Always had good results with them 👍
Helicoils get a bad rap because they’re expected to work perfectly in crooked, wallowed holes that have been drilled by hand under awful conditions and then tapped by hand without a tap guide. When they are used in straight, round holes with straight, tight threads they work great. Even Keen-serts can fail in poor conditions.
Installed properly they work fine in aluminium
@brettphillips8650 I don't know what you're talking about. All of my hand drilled holes are perfectly straight and exactly on size. (Said no one ever)
Professional machinist and prototyping foundry tool builder here, and we see helicoils specd on OEM housings ALL the time. I would say mostly on Aluminum but sometimes in grey iron too. Usually not on Ductile or ADI cast iron because the thread strength is better. Squatches parts are almost certainly grey iron and they will be much improved with the coils.
Hello Toby, I have been watching you for a long time. You and Sr.s level of craftsmanship is unmatched! Enjoyed the interaction with the vacuum, lol.
Absolutely exceptional work, Squatch
Noticed right off that ”Squatch sounds off today” so microphone system must be pretty accurate. Great camera angles , as always! Even though it’s not “perfect” it’s still amazing how good it looked after Squatch finished up with the milling. My shop vac also sounds like a dying goose………..lmao!
Another master class for truly repairing the issue and returning it to a right, correct and proper function!
The amount of patience it requires to do work of this quality never ceases to amaze me.
All of my ShopVac's complain the same way yours does. 😂
Keep up the great work!
Thanks
Squatch
The magnet on the poker was some pro level mechanic activity. I'll be adding that one to the noggin
You gota love that vacuum!
I have one like that.
CEE quality workmanship done on this part. 👍👍👏👏well done.
In my 36 year aerospace career as a machinist engineering tech fab person I have installed thousands of helicoil inserts of all sizes down to 2-56 size which we made in the shop cause we couldn't get them. A good little dab of thread locker goes a long way to keep them in. Just make sure it dries before you install the fastener so you don't lock it in too.
The shop vac cracked me up each time it ran. I have one that did the exact same thing for years until it finally gave up the smoke.
I've got a top tank and bottom tank for a '27 John Deere D aka "Christine 2.0" or as I have dubbed it "DEEEEP POCKETS"... Both need resurfacing. Problem is I don't think the top tank would fit in your mill. It's quite large! Nice work, Squatch!
Perhaps donate the vacuum to a haunted house. Really glad to see you're back on the old girl - never give up.
Maybe you’ve sucked the demons right out of Christine and put them into the vacuum. That’s a good way to get rid of them.
Your skill and work ethics are second to none.....
Thanks for the video Toby! You’re right in my realm of machining with this. Used them in holes to hold buses to the table many times and they work. Plus making vise jaws and fixtures milling them to size. Thanks again and can’t wait to see what comes next!
That went really well, Toby. Had you considered Easy-Outs? I don’t mean the cheap, nasty, left-hand threaded ones, I mean the square edge style. I have had a lot of success with them. The important thing is to have the hole properly centred - which you did with your Milling Machine - and possibly a little heat cycle.
The Vacuum Cleaner was hilarious!
The restoration of x-231 is truly a labor of love. I’m glad you are saving this piece of history.
Toby, you do good work.
Highlightigng Haydenc2742's B comment, I have had good fortune using reverse flute bits to extract bolts when I have taken the time to fixture and square the part such as you have. I step up from small bit not skipping sizes. When I get between half depth and botton, I start varying pressure on drill quill. Some times it will bite and screw right out. I also use a tailstock center drill to ensure the first bit does not wander off center. Have a great day!
Job well done, and those machinist jacks are some of the best I've seen.
My shop vac has sounded just like that for over ten years now and still works fine.
Thanks for another great video, loved the machinists jacks 👌
The end part of your vacuum sounds like me after I run 10 yds.
lol 😂
Nice job
Great job on the restoration on the top casting of the radiator.
Great episode.
As we learned in the behind the scenes episode about the importance of comments I wanted to leave something here.
Also, I’m conflicted whether to move my membership higher to help afford a new vacuum or hope you can include this vacuum in every episode.
You never disappoint! It's marvelous the methodic techniques you employed to repair this tank-no rush, hurry, or shortcuts-simply a beautiful job.
Try stainless steel fasteners it will help eliminate the electrolysis between the steel and aluminum which causes the corrosion/ rust in the first place.😊
Nice organizer in the background 👌
That was a very tedious job but, very rewarding in the end. Enjoyed watching the process!
Speedy recovery with the cold!
Well, the vacuum cleaner sounds cool, like someone strangling a donkey. 😂🤣.
But the job is superbly done. Respect.
You remind me of my cousins late husband, he was a cabinet maker and wood carver. When he was working it was the job that mattered, it certainly came before his consideration of time spent on the job. 👍
The correct tools make the job easier
Toby that was excellent instruction for milling and thread repair, along with being able to see the progress on X231. Thanks for sharing!
Great machining work. I appreciate the lessons. Christine is looking better!
I'm glad I'm not the only one with a Shop-vac that sounds like that
Good Job .. always enjoy watching you work in the shop !! ❤️😎👍👍👍
Thank you for posting. The kids loved the vacuum saying Nnnoooooohhhhhhhhh.
Excellent work, as always. Thank you for taking us along!
Have you considered using Timeserts. They use a syncronized thread thinwalled insert. They take a smaller hole than a helicoil as far as i know.
Maybe i missed the explanation but why does the top tank have a 10a casting number and not 10x?
The top tank is one of the few production model ZB pieces that were used on this tractor, thus the "10A" casting number. Because X231 was still loosely based on the previous ZB, a few of those pieces still found their way over where the dimensions were close enough to serve the purpose - even the crankshaft in X231's engine still has the old "RE-xxx" casting number from the ZB.
I have a Harbor Freight milling machine that I am quite happy with.
It’s what I could afford, and it runs on single phase 220.
1:00 Squatch, no showing the precision bubble level use as a final pre-bolt down procedure.? 1:19 AHHH, THERE IT is. 😅 I'm looking forward to this episode... 22:30 not disappointed, now onto the bolster section of the radiator...
Love helicoils, saved the day many times. Keep thinking about that Bridgeport.
This I think is the best ever episode. Brilliant demonstration and explanation of the working procedure. Execution was silky smooth but that would all be down to the preparation. I bet making those brackets and then levelling and plumbing the work took ages, but it was well worth it.
Thanks! Yes, Senior and I both worked on the setup, and between fab’ing the brackets and then leveling/plumbing the tank it was a full day and a half of prep work from both of us 👍
Going to have to double stack your gaskets now so your hood doesn't wind up .050" low. That would almost be as bad as having an alternator! LOL
Thoroughly enjoyed this episode. THANKS!
The standard of your work is a marvel to watch.
You need a spring loaded tap follower.
A center drill will wander less for starting holes than your pilot drill. However due to you prep work the wander was minimized.
That squealing sound is how you know it's a genuine ShopVac! :D
The reason you're projects come out awesome is because of your thought process and the time you take to attract that particular project. Time and knowledge is what makes your projects turn out the way they do . Example j1113 1936 ? D2 . You took a parts tractor and turned it into a operating gem . Christine the witch craft tractor will turn out like j1113 an operating gem . Denis from Santa Rosa CA
I've put many thread repair coils in at a previous job. Many times, if the plate was aluminum, and the hole was used repeatedly, coils would be used right away. They're much stronger than the aluminum threads.
If a hole got worn to the point a coil wouldn't work, a solid insert was used.
I have had good results with undersized reverse drill bit. If it doesnt work no harm if it does you have original threaded hole
Im thinking somewhere on youtube is a shopvac restorer who uou could collaborate with. 😂 Another great video. Now its time to go off and do my own work.
awwww you got to Love the sound of that vacuum 😁
I think that you might need to replace a bearing in your shopvac, lol.
Excellent! Always learn something watching.
I look forward to the day we get to see a bridgeport style mill in your shop, i couldn't be without mine now. I use a shop vac to clean up any chips on my milling machines, I see so many on RUclips using air and blowing them all over the shop and just think WHY ?!?!
Plus, high velocity air is good at sending a chip into an eye - vacuum cleaners just make more sense all around 👍
I know of a lot of manufacturers that used a Glyptal coating in their cooling systems, if you were to keep the same coolant in there for the next 20 years without changing it I'd be concerned but it'll greatly improve the lifespan of the radiator parts without little to no difference in engine cooling. You'll be glad you did.
Nice work, the smal milling machine perform great with the cutter. But how you decide to only drill the Brocke bolt out and recut the threads, or Drill it total and set an Helicoil? And yes, i watched the strugle with the brocken tap ^^
We learned our lesson with trying to get just the broken bolts out of the bottom bolster casting - the bolts were so rusted in that we caused more damage to the holes by trying to save them. So this time we went straight to over-sizing them and installing new threads.
Very interesting. Thank you for taking the time and sharing this with us.
Thanks for the tip about starting the tap.
That vacuum needs the bronze bearing in the top oiled. They get dry and make that noise. If it has galled you’ll have to replace it.
It’s sounded like that for years now, and at this point I’m better off just running it as-is until it quits because “time is money” as they say, and I’ll be further ahead just replacing it with a new one than spending any time at all stepping away from generating paying video content for the feeds here, trying to quiet that old motor down 👍
@@squatch253 👍
Helicoils, the original ones, made in Germany -not the offest brand chinesium- are worth their weight in gold. If mounted right- the original kit comes with instructions, drill, tap, setting and de pinning tool, three length of inserts.
I needed to fix some M5 on my bike- it was a breeze. I definetly became a fan. Happy wrenching!
I have used Helicoils a couple times,never had a problem with them. great video!
i enjoy your channel, ever try using a cutting torch to blow the bolt out, did it once, it worked but was very uneasy about it.
Yes, I’ve done that quite a lot over the years. I won’t do it to a 10X casting though, too risky in case something goes wrong lol
Time to get a inexpensive “spring loaded tap follower”.
Great vid on how to Helicoil the right way. My out look on life improved the day I found out that McMaster sells replacement coils in longer than standard lengths.
Christine's top cast iron radiator tank looks like a piece of artwork. Member question , were all the Minneapolis Moline cast iron castings so beautiful ? Or was it just the prototypes that got such beautiful detailing .
If you say it louder, Christine may hear you, feel flattered and give Squatch an easier time.
Been watching you for years,your vids are excellent
Good work Squatch I was wondering if a left handed drill bit would have wound them out?
Many years ago when I was apprenticing in aviation I had a Heli-Coil wind out of a lower spark plug hole with the plug. Champion recommended an anti-seize to be used that was mostly moly and graphite. I still have the remainder of that bottle that my dad had, its probably 60 years old. That little bottle coared thousands of plugs so you can see how little was needed. I don't use it on new plugs that are plated but do use it to help out electrical connections.
Thought I commented on this one before, but I can't find it so I will leave another. I thought you would have used an end mill to drill out your bolts, as they do not flex, But I think you answered it a little later as you dont have a wide selection of sizes yet.
But in the bottom tank repair I was wondering if you coat the milled gasket surface with a light coat of oil or grease to keep it from rusting again. Especially since it will be out in the weather for transport to the Fab / repair shop.
Instead of milling that whole surface flat, my cousin taught me a trick. He would sand blast the surface, clean it really well, then spread JB Weld on it with a putty knife to fill in the lowest spots. Then mill it flat. The JB Weld makes it so you do not have to mill so much off. Surprisingly the JB Weld holds up too. He has engines still running that he did that to the head surface 15 years ago with no problems yet.
I want the shop vac death noise as a ringtone!
That makes good sense! It seems like cast iron absorbs it especially very porous cast iron!
I remember wondering why you didn’t glyptal the inside of the block of Swamp Angel. Obviously you wouldn’t want it on the sleeves, but all that rust plugging passages would reduce cooling far more than paint (and you want to cool the liners anyway). My thought is, since you don’t rum straight water like they used to, you’re not going to get rust in there.
Great video thanks for sharing
I enjoy all the pictures
That must be the universal mating call of the shop vac in the wild because mine sounds exactly the same on certain days. I have never had an issue with Heli-Coils as long as the hole is on size and drilled straight. I like the lock type inserts as well, but they have their place. That little mill you have does a pretty decent job from the looks of it. I love my Bridgeport mill, but some of the other brands do a little better job because they have more mass and less chatter to deal with on tough materials or heavy cuts. Buy as big of a machine as you can find or afford with the longest travel and table size. I'm always running out of travel or table width on my 9"x42". I also added a riser to gain 8" of vertical travel, which was very helpful. Still some decent deals out there on used machines if you know what to look for. Can't wait to see this 'ole girl painted up and running again Toby!
You can get broken off bolts burned out with an EDM machine very reasonable nowadays. They leave the threads intact. They even have portable machines that come to your location.
HEAT TRANSFER AND GLYPTAL: the cooling fins are thin, with lots of air flowing past. The tanks are thick cast iron with no air flowing through. Heat loss through the fins is 99% or more, so Glyptal will have almost no sffect on cooling - that's why it was added to production tractors.
Is that an old crankshaft supporting the front of the mill? 😂 I like the mounting setup on the table.
If you have to drill out something that is harder than a normal drill bit, Go get some cheap carbide-tipped masonry bits and reshape the tips to the same pitch and angle as a normal drill bit. They can be reground with a normal grinder but it just takes a while.
They are amazing for drilling out hard-to-work with materials.
Helicoils works great . Hole prep is a must. The leading edge thread coil has to be set below the first thread. And do not use old bolts with any kind of rolled threads. I used them a ton on aircrafts along with slim cert king sert. And more.
Great show !!! Thanks
A simple old-time cheat for dealing with redoing fastener holes that could go into water/fluid passages if oversized/rethreaded deeper is to simply reverse them from being bolt holes to studs. Rethread them as needed and then epoxy the stud in at just over finger tight and call it good.
I've done many over the years and never had one leak.
That vacuum makes me laugh everytime
Been noisy like that for years and still going strong lol 😂
My preferred thread insert is a Timesert. It's a thin, threaded sleeve with a countersunk flange on top. They are hard to even detect when installed properly, but they require using the specialized installation tools.
maybe you should've tried to drill out the core of the bolts and peel the threads out? I've had decent luck with that in the past,
Love the detailed process, its a shame it's all hidden once the full projects done
That’s why we put it all on RUclips to go back and look at whenever we want 👍😎
Had to laugh when I heard that vacuum 😂 Sounds just like mine. Is it broken? It’s been doing it for 10 years now.