Here's a link to the spreadsheet I made up for quick reference: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/128UnQ0Wt_Fx2icOg2SlUkXEn2G0nOJ_QD7MCnJCLgWM/edit?usp=sharing
you probably dont care but does someone know a trick to get back into an instagram account..? I was dumb lost the password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me
@Mario Oliver thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Why did I just watch a 20 minute video on glue? Why did I enjoy it greatly? These are some of life's many unanswered questions. But I thank you for making it. I look forward to the next.
Mark, incredibly comprehensive video (as usual). Well worth the entire 18+ mins and to keep watching beyond the spoiler alert. Thank you. plus 1 on Titebond III for me.
super cool thanks! I always use Titebond 3 but by accident though when i was starting out i just figured "3 is more powerful than 1 or 2 I will go with that one"
I wanted to take the time to thank you for this glue video. You answered questions I didn't know I even had, and confirmed a few things I had suspected.
This is exactly the answer I was looking for on Friday Live a couple weeks ago. That chart is perfect! Thanks for the in depth look into glues! Excellent video!!!
Wow I can't tell you how happy I am that you made this video. I've been wondering for a while now what the differences are in all of these. Thank you so much for the chart too. I am keeping it!
Over time, I've learned to just suck it up, and clean both the lid and the snap-close top. Saves time later as wet glue simply, quickly, rinses off the lid. Thanks for the run-down and review.
I have watched a lot of videos on a lot of wood working projects and I must say this was the clearest video presentation I think I've ever seen. Thanks.
Great intro and insight into the Titebond glue collection. You have provided me with the best all rounder information i needed desperately. You speak clearly and introduced all aspects of each type of glue with working examples at hand. I shall look no further...THANK YOU !!
Love this video.For the first time there isn't a video that says to use Titebound 3 only for cutting boards. I mean if you have lots sponsors and can spend the extra money go for. Always love the honest content!!
I watched your video just before a massive walnut table top glue up and thank goodness! Was going to use my standby Titebond II but your info on color and working time and ran right out and got some Titebond III. thank you so much!
Excellent summary Mark , thanks for the SpreadSheet too i know you are a Tite bond Sponsored guy now but one thing i wanted to add about them Is i used their products professionally for over 20 years and they were always very helpful as well as standing behind their products so much that Tite Bond products were the only Wood Glues we used With the only exception of a few other specialty products that other companies produced and Tite bond did not at that time
Great info, thanks! I used gorilla brand poly glue once to glue 1x2 wood strips to the roof of an aluminum shed in a colder(about 10-15 Celcius) environment. After it cured, it held so well I could grab just the wood strip and it held my body weight just fine. Love the poly glue for tricky situations.
Its great to fill in gaps too as it expands unlike other types of glue. The only issue is it can be a little more messy to clean up and don't get it on anything you don't want that stuff stuck to.
Just come across your RUclips channel over here in the UK and would just like to say that you are very good at your job and your videos are a pleasure to watch. Thanks for putting the time and effort in.
Thanks for this video! I like to add two products I am using a lot (no, I am not the manufacturer ;)): Bison (or Griffon, its the same) wood max and wood max express (in Dutch "hout max"). Great when there is some sort of a gap and perfect for constructive jobs. Once you used this type of glue, you never go back to polyurethane glue. Extremely strong and no airbubbles like the pu (bad for strength) You might want to check/test this out. Keep up the good work, like your video's. John, the Netherlands.
An excellent explanation of the different glues that Titebond sells. They have been my go to glue for many years. I always get great results with their products. Thanks for answering my question too. (Don Bullock)
Such a great resource. Dispelled some common misconceptions I frequently see. People assume for a cutting board it has to be 3 for example. Or people just use 3 for everything. I'm on a tight budget so I save money wherever I can without sacrificing the integrity of the piece. If I can avoid the more expensive TB3... I definitely will. Dying the color was new to me though. Love that tip
Unless whatever you are working on is going to sit outside in the rain/snow the Titebond 1 will work just fine...maybe Titebond 2 if you would be eating off whatever you are making but TB3 is really only needed if your project will spend its whole life outside in the weather...and at that point you may want to switch to the Titebond Silicone LOL.
Well done and very informative I tend to use titebond 3 by the gal and always have good results. Had big glue up today, mixed glue and sawdust to fill up some jig Ole holes. Doweled is about 20 holes also. Thank you al mydland
I make wood boxes and other wood accessories for tabletop games, and the two Titebond glues I currently use are Titebond II Extend, and Titebond Translucent (which you didn't address). My thoughts and observations re: my experience vs. your video: 1) I find both Titebond II Extend and Titebond Translucent dry pretty translucent. Since I'm making boxes with lots of finger joints and tight spaces where it's hard to clean up squeeze out, that's important to me. 2) I find both these glues do a fine enough job adhering to pre-shellacked wood, which I do when customers order their products with shellac inside and out since it's too difficult to get shellac into some of the small nooks & crannies of some of my organizing boxes and certainly too tight to sand those small spaces afterward. Now maybe that's because I'm generous with the glue and fastidious with my clamp up, but I figured I should share. 3) Titebond Translucent is quite thick and viscous. Not sure it's quite as much so as Quick & Thick (bought a bottle once but never got around to using it on a project) but far thicker than the Titebond II Extend. That said, they both dry about the same translucent color. 4) The Extend glues can result in a weird red staining reaction when finished afterward with amber shellac. For products where customers order exterior shellac finishing only, I apply the shellac after assembly. As I said above, I use Titebond II Extend where I need both unobtrusive squeeze out AND long open time. If some of that nearly invisible glue got smudged onto another surface of the wood and I didn't notice it, it can make itself known when I apply amber shellac. Apparently the amber shellac can react with the chemical used to slow the setting of the Extend glues and turn a reddish color. (Another reason to pre-finish the wood when I need to get tight difficult-to-sand spots shellacked). I need to thoroughly sand any surfaces that may have un-seen glue smudges before applying the shellac or else I might find myself sanding a partially finished surface back to bare wood and starting over. 5) Also, for precision application on small fingers and tenons (I usually use 3mm Baltic birch) I use a set of these with my Titebond glues: www.rockler.com/workshop-glue-injector-3-pack. For less precision application, I use this: www.rockler.com/glu-bot-glue-bottle-or-babe-bot-glue-bottle Thanks for the video.
Great information. The only thing I have to say is that glue bot didn't work for me, used it once, next time I went to use it the red screw on cap crumbled to pieces :(. I just keep the glue in the original bottles now, it goes bad long before I use the whole bottle anyhow and lost the glue that was in that glue bot as well so I can't see where I'd spend the money on anther glue bot after having one with crumbling caps.
Really nice video- I learned a lot. One tip.. to keep the glue cap clean all you need do is to borrow your wife's water jet tooth cleaner (Water-Pik). Works super well especially if you let your glue bottle sit for some time between projects.
Great video!!! We always have a lot of glue questions at Woodcraft and this will be a great video to point them towards (for those who need a little extra info).
Great reference guide. Glue selection is important, so I think it's really helpful to know the pros and cons of the glues I choose. Especially after investing time and money in a project leading up to assembly!
Thank you Marc, that was very informative. My favorite glue is Titebond No-Run No-Drip, comes clear when completely set. The glue set pretty fast (3 mins). I find it perfect for simple assembly or multi-part assembly.
BEST VIDEO EVER! I was at home depot the other day and bought type 2 cause price. This video was really helpful to know the differences. Should have got type 3
Great video as always. Here's what Titebond's Bob Benke told me a few years ago re: their cryptic EXP. date code & some other neat bits of info. My local Ace hard ware had lots of Titebond on sale, but decoding their date codes, I realized they were all 1-4 years old bottles: TITEBOND / FRANKLIN INTERNATIONAL Date code: ex A41201XX: A= American / USA-made 4= 2014 01= DEC 01 XX= BATCH# XX SHELF LIFE: Good TWO years min., but up to FOUR or more; Refrigerated will last 10 years! Titebond II as waterproof, but Titebond III can tolerate 180F and above (beyond boiling/dishwasher) Titebond III gels when bad, looks like cottage cheese; if it comes out and looks creamy, it's good; can add 5% water if it gets thick.
For people new to this: worth saying too that polyurethane is not gap filling, even though it foams up. The foam will fill the gap, but has no strength. If you use clamps then it works a treat.
Thanks for the info. I've had Titebond glue for over a decade, and in a shot that in summer hits 90 degrees and it is still good. Titebond III only lasted a year in the shop before it got lumpy (but, I bought it off of ebay, so no telling how long it was where it was before I bought it.)
Thanks for the tips! I can attest to the Titebond III dark glue line in maple. I tried Titebond Translucent in the same situation and it was invisible. Great stuff...
Man I wanna get my hands on some of that dark glue! I’d have to order it as stores locally only carry original, II and III. I always used Titebond II for everything. I’ve definitely noticed temperature has a lot to do with dry time. In the Texas summer, I can finish projects very quickly, glue ups are almost totally dry in 30 minutes or less, in the winter, I’ve had even small glue ups take 4 hours or more to dry up enough to keep working.
Something I discovered last winter (in SE Alaska), Titebond 1 will partially solidify in the cold and can't be salvaged (gets chunky for lack of a better term). Titebond 2 survived the winter in my shed with no problems. Slightly longer set time, but I generally wrap up for the night when I get to a glue-up, so not a big deal for me
I've started using home made hide glue for most of my interior projects, it’s got a pretty good history and it’s undoable. After that it’s using a Titebond III, epoxy or CA glue. However, I’m still very much a learner and I'll probably give a different answer next week but it is good fun making your own glue.
I'm a big fan of the polyurethane glue, it's become my go-to glue. I don't see the foaming squeeze out as a disadvantage; it's actually one of the reasons I like it. I just take my five-in-one to the foam, then use a card scraper to remove whatever's left.
Also another helpful tip about hide glue is it will cure and adhere to itself where as pva's not so much. This is a great advantage to anybody like myself who is also a hobby luthier.
Excelente información de cada uno de los tipos de adhesivo TiteBond. En general solo uno el Ultimate III, pero a veces uso el No-run, No-drip. Cuando pasa el tiempo y se pone grumoso, se puede agregar hasta un 5% de agua limpia, de preferencia caliente. Lo mismo al limpiar la boquilla, agua caliente funciona mejor. Gracias por toda la información, un video ameno. Un saludo desde Guatemala.
William Todd when I buy them. If I don’t open them soon then I will date them when I open. After wasting a lot of glue I buy them in small containers unless I’m doing a big job.
Here I thought I was watching a video about woodworking glues...instead I got a very long campaign commercial for "Goldie Wilson." HELLO, McFly!!!! Seriously though great information, thanks Marc.
I’m a TBII guy. Tried the others. Like 2 the best. I am a decoy carver and use the glue to laminate my decoy blocks and glue heads up. TB 2 just seems to hold up better for me in those applications
I use Titebond 1, very rarely 2. Regardless what I buy though it goes bad before I use all of it anyways LOL. I don't do much in the way of gluing stuff together that goes outside, so the Titebond 1 works fine....although that hide glue may be something to keep around for repairing furniture, never really thought about being able to take it apart by using hide glue without causing more damage to the furniture.
I bought this 1Kg glue more than 1 year ago and due to space issues and problems in the family I couldn't use it and it was kept for a long time! Now I went to use it and noticed the formation of several lumps, balls that fall apart when squeezed, it's not that pasty appearance! I did a test on 2 slats of hardwood 1.5 cm high and the glue continued to stick, even if I sawed off the glued slat halfway through, the glue remained!
Great video covering the basics. One thing to note on the strength is that the strength listed is the strength needed to pull the parts away from each other in opposing directions. It’s not necessarily shear strength. I remember reading a post by someone who was supposedly a chemist that titebond original actually has more shear strength than titebond III. I don’t have anyway to confirm, but intuitively it made sense though as usually stronger things are more brittle and thus would be worse in shear. Likely the difference is not enough to matter anyways even if they are a 1000-2000lbs different as long as it’s greater than the wood. Just thought it was an interesting bit of info.
I wasn't even going to watch this video because I prefer gorilla wood glue but you have convinced me to try titebond again. I prefer the finished color of gorilla wood glue to titebond 2 but I think I may try 3 after this video.
With Polyurethane glue it helps to tape off any areas you want to keep it away from, and use mineral spirits and a lint free cloth to wipe off any excess (not soaking wet), and repeat until it starts solidifying and less comes out of the joint; Paper towels and the like don't work good at all here, so use an old t-shirt or other cloth. I never use Polyurethane on very porous woods unless I have a good amount to sand down after gluing, because you just can't get it out of the pores as well, even when wet as other glues, and it will show. I wrote this before he got to the cleanup section where he mentioned the mineral spirits.
I notice redwood reacts with Titebond III. The purple stains seem to penetrate the wood fibers. Thanks for the reminder about polyurethane being waterproof. I will try that next time I’m making an outdoor piece from redwood.
I always bump the bottle on the bench then squeeze it and let the air suck in any glue that remains on the tip then close the top. Otherwise you can end up with glue in the gap between the lid and the spout. I do the same thing with the "super-glue" stuff to keep a good tip on the glue bottle. Guess you could say I burp the bottle. :)
One thing to keep in mind is the short life of the hide glue. I have gotten bottles already passed good. The way to tell is to put a drop between your fingers and work it back and fourth to see if it gets sticky. You will see small strands bridge between your fingers. That means it’s still good. It it stays liquid it gone.
I also prefer the "scrape while gelatinous" clean-up. It's a little more time consuming because you have to remember, but the damp cloth always makes more of a mess than necessary and scraping it away when it's dry sometimes rips out some fibres. You can actually clean up polyurethane squeeze-out with acetone. Unlike the damp cloth, it doesn't make a mess and takes away most of the glue, you may need to do it more than once though. But it winds up saving time, because cleaning up pu glue is a real pain, especially on pre-finished parts.
Great video. I would like to see you do one about clamping pressure required. I see videos where the builder uses an extreme number of clamps and some that just shoot a few pin nails and set it aside to dry.
VERY enlightening , I think you should contact Titebond with your research and they could include the rtesults on their bottles to getthe word out . Thanks
Hi Mark, I wonder which of these glues would you recommend for filling up a deep crack so that the glue to look natural after a clear coating? I just want to stabilize the crack and keep the wood look naturally 🙏🏻 thanks!
The opening of my Titebond broke, so now I have to open the cap, which does not seal very well by the way, every freaking time I want some glue and use a screw-driver to get dip some out. I went with Elmer's for the next purchase even though I still have plenty of the Tite.
Great video. Thanks so much. Question to anyone listening. I live in Phoenix. Summers are a struggle. Therefore Titebond 3 used "quickly, but don't hurry", (stolen from the great John Wooden) my question is, winters here are great for working during the day. Nights get down to the high 30's to low 40's for the majority of time. If I do a glue up during the day and it sets for a few hours with warmer temperatures, will leaving it set overnight , below47 deg. affect the set up? Thanks so much. Regards to all, Jim
I am surprised that you only briefly touched on CA glues, I find they are probably the most useful glue for woodworking. I always keep some titebond 3, hide glue as well as gell and thin CA glues and an activator. I have tried the polyurethane glues but I find the foaming squeeze out always gets stuck in the woods pores, then the only way to get rid of it is to change the dimensions of the piece which is not acceptable in my opinion.
I’ve been on titebond 50 for about 5 years now...that stuff holds like an absolute monster and it’s got a nice working time Original titebond for joints that aren’t “load bearing”. Titebond 50 for all the critical stuff. Your joints will survive the nuclear apocalypse. Stuff will be flying around everywhere, sure....but the wood will have broken before the glue joint 👍
My project includes reclaimed wood with a satin finish on the wood and desire to make a butcher block style bench top. My question is... will I need to remove the finish so as to not interfere with the gluing strength?
So... I have a question... Can you use WOOD GLUE for things other than wood? I'm looking for something that would work easily with tongue and groove vinyl laminate flooring, to glue the tongue and groove pieces together, and it DOESN'T have to be a structural hold, it's mainly just to keep the 2 pieces from separating from light moving around, and pulling it out or putting it into, a small cabinet (10 inch wide shelves made from laminate flooring)... I have some titebond 2 around and was wondering if that would work good enough on that, and if it would work on a couple of other pieces as well, that are wood laminate flooring that'll be used for the same purpose. Basically, it's all just scrap wood/vinyl, and i don't have any excess money to spend... I guess I could buy some cheap superglue if that would work better, but if i don't have to, I don't want to...
Thank you for this interesting video. I live in Italy, here we mostly use vinilic glue, it's called Vinavil, and the price is 5€ for 1kg. I am using titebond III and I think I'll never get back to vinilic! The only problem? Here one bottle costs 30€!!!
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Here's a link to the spreadsheet I made up for quick reference: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/128UnQ0Wt_Fx2icOg2SlUkXEn2G0nOJ_QD7MCnJCLgWM/edit?usp=sharing
Titebond also has "Titebond Melomine".
you probably dont care but does someone know a trick to get back into an instagram account..?
I was dumb lost the password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me
@Toby Ezra Instablaster =)
@Mario Oliver thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Mario Oliver it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much, you really help me out :D
Why did I just watch a 20 minute video on glue? Why did I enjoy it greatly? These are some of life's many unanswered questions. But I thank you for making it. I look forward to the next.
Could be worse.......a video on paint drying!
@@paulhargreaves1497 don’t threaten me with a good time
I'm just getting into woodworking, so I'm going to adhere to your advice
Just stick to it ;).
How does this only have 6 likes
I suppose it just didn’t cure properly
Build a door, then show yourself out
Can't go wrong with just advice and you'll also build some depth of skills as time goes on, good luck
I dont even care how sponsored this is. Amazingly handy.
Mark, incredibly comprehensive video (as usual). Well worth the entire 18+ mins and to keep watching beyond the spoiler alert. Thank you. plus 1 on Titebond III for me.
super cool thanks! I always use Titebond 3 but by accident though when i was starting out i just figured "3 is more powerful than 1 or 2 I will go with that one"
I wanted to take the time to thank you for this glue video. You answered questions I didn't know I even had, and confirmed a few things I had suspected.
This is exactly the answer I was looking for on Friday Live a couple weeks ago. That chart is perfect! Thanks for the in depth look into glues! Excellent video!!!
Wow I can't tell you how happy I am that you made this video. I've been wondering for a while now what the differences are in all of these. Thank you so much for the chart too. I am keeping it!
Over time, I've learned to just suck it up, and clean both the lid and the snap-close top. Saves time later as wet glue simply, quickly, rinses off the lid. Thanks for the run-down and review.
I have watched a lot of videos on a lot of wood working projects and I must say this was the clearest video presentation I think I've ever seen. Thanks.
After a decade plus of TWW, I thought I knew everything about glue. Thanks for the continued education!
Excellent presentation of glue and glue properties. Answered all my questions. Thank you!!
Thanks Mark. Always appreciate your efforts in helping us learn to be better
Thank you for the very thorough video on the different glues. Very informative. Best one on wood glue that I have watched. Thank you!
Great intro and insight into the Titebond glue collection. You have provided me with the best all rounder information i needed desperately. You speak clearly and introduced all aspects of each type of glue with working examples at hand. I shall look no further...THANK YOU !!
Love this video.For the first time there isn't a video that says to use Titebound 3 only for cutting boards. I mean if you have lots sponsors and can spend the extra money go for. Always love the honest content!!
Thank you for this! Incredibly helpful for a new woodworker.
I watched your video just before a massive walnut table top glue up and thank goodness! Was going to use my standby Titebond II but your info on color and working time and ran right out and got some Titebond III. thank you so much!
Excellent summary Mark , thanks for the SpreadSheet too i know you are a Tite bond Sponsored guy now but one thing i wanted to add about them Is i used their products professionally for over 20 years and they were always very helpful as well as standing behind their products so much that Tite Bond products were the only Wood Glues we used With the only exception of a few other specialty products that other companies produced and Tite bond did not at that time
Great info, thanks! I used gorilla brand poly glue once to glue 1x2 wood strips to the roof of an aluminum shed in a colder(about 10-15 Celcius) environment. After it cured, it held so well I could grab just the wood strip and it held my body weight just fine. Love the poly glue for tricky situations.
Its great to fill in gaps too as it expands unlike other types of glue. The only issue is it can be a little more messy to clean up and don't get it on anything you don't want that stuff stuck to.
Just come across your RUclips channel over here in the UK and would just like to say that you are very good at your job and your videos are a pleasure to watch. Thanks for putting the time and effort in.
Thanks for this video! I like to add two products I am using a lot (no, I am not the manufacturer ;)): Bison (or Griffon, its the same) wood max and wood max express (in Dutch "hout max"). Great when there is some sort of a gap and perfect for constructive jobs. Once you used this type of glue, you never go back to polyurethane glue. Extremely strong and no airbubbles like the pu (bad for strength) You might want to check/test this out. Keep up the good work, like your video's. John, the Netherlands.
An excellent explanation of the different glues that Titebond sells. They have been my go to glue for many years. I always get great results with their products. Thanks for answering my question too. (Don Bullock)
This is great. I am going to have to remember this so I can go back and reference it. The spreadsheet looks super handy.
Such a great resource. Dispelled some common misconceptions I frequently see. People assume for a cutting board it has to be 3 for example. Or people just use 3 for everything. I'm on a tight budget so I save money wherever I can without sacrificing the integrity of the piece. If I can avoid the more expensive TB3... I definitely will. Dying the color was new to me though. Love that tip
Unless whatever you are working on is going to sit outside in the rain/snow the Titebond 1 will work just fine...maybe Titebond 2 if you would be eating off whatever you are making but TB3 is really only needed if your project will spend its whole life outside in the weather...and at that point you may want to switch to the Titebond Silicone LOL.
Well done and very informative I tend to use titebond 3 by the gal and always have good results. Had big glue up today, mixed glue and sawdust to fill up some jig Ole holes. Doweled is about 20 holes also. Thank you al mydland
I make wood boxes and other wood accessories for tabletop games, and the two Titebond glues I currently use are Titebond II Extend, and Titebond Translucent (which you didn't address). My thoughts and observations re: my experience vs. your video:
1) I find both Titebond II Extend and Titebond Translucent dry pretty translucent. Since I'm making boxes with lots of finger joints and tight spaces where it's hard to clean up squeeze out, that's important to me.
2) I find both these glues do a fine enough job adhering to pre-shellacked wood, which I do when customers order their products with shellac inside and out since it's too difficult to get shellac into some of the small nooks & crannies of some of my organizing boxes and certainly too tight to sand those small spaces afterward. Now maybe that's because I'm generous with the glue and fastidious with my clamp up, but I figured I should share.
3) Titebond Translucent is quite thick and viscous. Not sure it's quite as much so as Quick & Thick (bought a bottle once but never got around to using it on a project) but far thicker than the Titebond II Extend. That said, they both dry about the same translucent color.
4) The Extend glues can result in a weird red staining reaction when finished afterward with amber shellac. For products where customers order exterior shellac finishing only, I apply the shellac after assembly. As I said above, I use Titebond II Extend where I need both unobtrusive squeeze out AND long open time. If some of that nearly invisible glue got smudged onto another surface of the wood and I didn't notice it, it can make itself known when I apply amber shellac. Apparently the amber shellac can react with the chemical used to slow the setting of the Extend glues and turn a reddish color. (Another reason to pre-finish the wood when I need to get tight difficult-to-sand spots shellacked). I need to thoroughly sand any surfaces that may have un-seen glue smudges before applying the shellac or else I might find myself sanding a partially finished surface back to bare wood and starting over.
5) Also, for precision application on small fingers and tenons (I usually use 3mm Baltic birch) I use a set of these with my Titebond glues: www.rockler.com/workshop-glue-injector-3-pack. For less precision application, I use this: www.rockler.com/glu-bot-glue-bottle-or-babe-bot-glue-bottle
Thanks for the video.
Great information. The only thing I have to say is that glue bot didn't work for me, used it once, next time I went to use it the red screw on cap crumbled to pieces :(. I just keep the glue in the original bottles now, it goes bad long before I use the whole bottle anyhow and lost the glue that was in that glue bot as well so I can't see where I'd spend the money on anther glue bot after having one with crumbling caps.
Really nice video- I learned a lot. One tip.. to keep the glue cap clean all you need do is to borrow your wife's water jet tooth cleaner (Water-Pik). Works super well especially if you let your glue bottle sit for some time between projects.
Great video!!! We always have a lot of glue questions at Woodcraft and this will be a great video to point them towards (for those who need a little extra info).
Great reference guide. Glue selection is important, so I think it's really helpful to know the pros and cons of the glues I choose. Especially after investing time and money in a project leading up to assembly!
Thank you Marc, that was very informative. My favorite glue is Titebond No-Run No-Drip, comes clear when completely set. The glue set pretty fast (3 mins). I find it perfect for simple assembly or multi-part assembly.
Great video!! Very good explanation among the different types of glue!! 🙌
I watched your video while waiting for glue to dry on my cabinet doors. :)
And then realized you used the wrong glue. 😂
This Is great guide. For someone that always just uses pva glue I now understand why people use different types
Thanks a lot men, I had to subscribe just watching for a minute and my first time on your youtube channel. Very elaborate explanation
The best info video on wood glue, informative and straight to the point!!!!
Excellent Video and thank you for taking the time to put it together
Excellent as usual! BTW, I use a toothpick to clean out the nozzle head --- less likely to damage the tip than a slotted screwdriver.
BEST VIDEO EVER! I was at home depot the other day and bought type 2 cause price. This video was really helpful to know the differences. Should have got type 3
I learned so much from you. You are explaining everything very well. Thank you and God bless you! 🙏
One of the best glue videos I've seen. Thanks!
Great video as always. Here's what Titebond's Bob Benke told me a few years ago re: their cryptic EXP. date code & some other neat bits of info. My local Ace hard ware had lots of Titebond on sale, but decoding their date codes, I realized they were all 1-4 years old bottles:
TITEBOND / FRANKLIN INTERNATIONAL
Date code: ex A41201XX:
A= American / USA-made
4= 2014
01= DEC 01
XX= BATCH# XX
SHELF LIFE: Good TWO years min., but up to FOUR or more; Refrigerated will last 10 years!
Titebond II as waterproof, but Titebond III can tolerate 180F and above (beyond boiling/dishwasher)
Titebond III gels when bad, looks like cottage cheese; if it comes out and looks creamy, it's good; can add 5% water if it gets thick.
For people new to this: worth saying too that polyurethane is not gap filling, even though it foams up. The foam will fill the gap, but has no strength. If you use clamps then it works a treat.
This is a great video ! I am an intermediate woodworker and have learned from this , Thank you for sharing !!
Love you, Mark... What a clear and informative video. Learnt a lot here. Thnks friend 👌👍
Thanks for the info. I've had Titebond glue for over a decade, and in a shot that in summer hits 90 degrees and it is still good. Titebond III only lasted a year in the shop before it got lumpy (but, I bought it off of ebay, so no telling how long it was where it was before I bought it.)
Thanks for the tips!
I can attest to the Titebond III dark glue line in maple. I tried Titebond Translucent in the same situation and it was invisible.
Great stuff...
Man I wanna get my hands on some of that dark glue! I’d have to order it as stores locally only carry original, II and III. I always used Titebond II for everything. I’ve definitely noticed temperature has a lot to do with dry time. In the Texas summer, I can finish projects very quickly, glue ups are almost totally dry in 30 minutes or less, in the winter, I’ve had even small glue ups take 4 hours or more to dry up enough to keep working.
Something I discovered last winter (in SE Alaska), Titebond 1 will partially solidify in the cold and can't be salvaged (gets chunky for lack of a better term). Titebond 2 survived the winter in my shed with no problems. Slightly longer set time, but I generally wrap up for the night when I get to a glue-up, so not a big deal for me
I've started using home made hide glue for most of my interior projects, it’s got a pretty good history and it’s undoable. After that it’s using a Titebond III, epoxy or CA glue. However, I’m still very much a learner and I'll probably give a different answer next week but it is good fun making your own glue.
I'm a big fan of the polyurethane glue, it's become my go-to glue. I don't see the foaming squeeze out as a disadvantage; it's actually one of the reasons I like it. I just take my five-in-one to the foam, then use a card scraper to remove whatever's left.
Urethane seems to me me to have a low shelf life of all
Also another helpful tip about hide glue is it will cure and adhere to itself where as pva's not so much. This is a great advantage to anybody like myself who is also a hobby luthier.
Excelente información de cada uno de los tipos de adhesivo TiteBond. En general solo uno el Ultimate III, pero a veces uso el No-run, No-drip.
Cuando pasa el tiempo y se pone grumoso, se puede agregar hasta un 5% de agua limpia, de preferencia caliente. Lo mismo al limpiar la boquilla, agua caliente funciona mejor.
Gracias por toda la información, un video ameno.
Un saludo desde Guatemala.
Nice and informative video. I date my glues and finishes so I can keep better track of them.
Date them when you buy them, or first open them? Great idea.
William Todd when I buy them. If I don’t open them soon then I will date them when I open. After wasting a lot of glue I buy them in small containers unless I’m doing a big job.
Here I thought I was watching a video about woodworking glues...instead I got a very long campaign commercial for "Goldie Wilson." HELLO, McFly!!!!
Seriously though great information, thanks Marc.
Fast, thorough, love it. Subscribed.
Really useful thank you, with good read across for non-Titebond products too.
I’m a TBII guy. Tried the others. Like 2 the best.
I am a decoy carver and use the glue to laminate my decoy blocks and glue heads up. TB 2 just seems to hold up better for me in those applications
Just found this video while researching Titebond Hide Glue. Very good video. And yes… re-elect Mayor Goldie Wilson! LOL
This was incredibly informative! Thanks very much Mark.
What a fantastic video, I was glued to my screen!
1 and 2 work for me....never fails...just the best.
I use Titebond 1, very rarely 2. Regardless what I buy though it goes bad before I use all of it anyways LOL. I don't do much in the way of gluing stuff together that goes outside, so the Titebond 1 works fine....although that hide glue may be something to keep around for repairing furniture, never really thought about being able to take it apart by using hide glue without causing more damage to the furniture.
Titebond III My go to glue for years. Good information
I bought this 1Kg glue more than 1 year ago and due to space issues and problems in the family I couldn't use it and it was kept for a long time! Now I went to use it and noticed the formation of several lumps, balls that fall apart when squeezed, it's not that pasty appearance! I did a test on 2 slats of hardwood 1.5 cm high and the glue continued to stick, even if I sawed off the glued slat halfway through, the glue remained!
Love the green bottle. Bought way to much of the blue stuff. Never used the red stuff.
Wow... this was awesome! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. Very impressive video.
I have had glue on the self over ten years and still works great! 😁😁👍👍
I was just wondering about this the other day, thanks for doing the research for me on the other kinds of glue!
This is SUPER helpful, especially the color test. I've been using TB Translucent
Great video covering the basics. One thing to note on the strength is that the strength listed is the strength needed to pull the parts away from each other in opposing directions. It’s not necessarily shear strength. I remember reading a post by someone who was supposedly a chemist that titebond original actually has more shear strength than titebond III. I don’t have anyway to confirm, but intuitively it made sense though as usually stronger things are more brittle and thus would be worse in shear. Likely the difference is not enough to matter anyways even if they are a 1000-2000lbs different as long as it’s greater than the wood. Just thought it was an interesting bit of info.
What do you mean by indirect food contact (time 1:38)? Cutting board all have exposed joints that have been glued!
Great review of Titebond products!
A great advertisement for Titebond products
I wasn't even going to watch this video because I prefer gorilla wood glue but you have convinced me to try titebond again. I prefer the finished color of gorilla wood glue to titebond 2 but I think I may try 3 after this video.
With Polyurethane glue it helps to tape off any areas you want to keep it away from, and use mineral spirits and a lint free cloth to wipe off any excess (not soaking wet), and repeat until it starts solidifying and less comes out of the joint; Paper towels and the like don't work good at all here, so use an old t-shirt or other cloth. I never use Polyurethane on very porous woods unless I have a good amount to sand down after gluing, because you just can't get it out of the pores as well, even when wet as other glues, and it will show.
I wrote this before he got to the cleanup section where he mentioned the mineral spirits.
I notice redwood reacts with Titebond III. The purple stains seem to penetrate the wood fibers. Thanks for the reminder about polyurethane being waterproof. I will try that next time I’m making an outdoor piece from redwood.
So much information just to help us , it’s much appreciated, thanks.
I always bump the bottle on the bench then squeeze it and let the air suck in any glue that remains on the tip then close the top. Otherwise you can end up with glue in the gap between the lid and the spout. I do the same thing with the "super-glue" stuff to keep a good tip on the glue bottle. Guess you could say I burp the bottle. :)
Great advice. And of course with polyurethane glue, you want to do the opposite - get all air _out_ of the tip, so as to prevent it curing.
Great video Marc. Tons of useful information! Thanks for sharing 👍
One thing to keep in mind is the short life of the hide glue. I have gotten bottles already passed good. The way to tell is to put a drop between your fingers and work it back and fourth to see if it gets sticky. You will see small strands bridge between your fingers. That means it’s still good. It it stays liquid it gone.
Great review, TY. I use it all the time. Always wondered about shelf life. I've had old stuff (TB) get thin.
I also prefer the "scrape while gelatinous" clean-up. It's a little more time consuming because you have to remember, but the damp cloth always makes more of a mess than necessary and scraping it away when it's dry sometimes rips out some fibres.
You can actually clean up polyurethane squeeze-out with acetone. Unlike the damp cloth, it doesn't make a mess and takes away most of the glue, you may need to do it more than once though. But it winds up saving time, because cleaning up pu glue is a real pain, especially on pre-finished parts.
Great video. I would like to see you do one about clamping pressure required. I see videos where the builder uses an extreme number of clamps and some that just shoot a few pin nails and set it aside to dry.
VERY enlightening , I think you should contact Titebond with your research and they could include the rtesults on their bottles to getthe word out . Thanks
Hi Mark, I wonder which of these glues would you recommend for filling up a deep crack so that the glue to look natural after a clear coating? I just want to stabilize the crack and keep the wood look naturally 🙏🏻 thanks!
Nice job Mark. Very thorough.
The opening of my Titebond broke, so now I have to open the cap, which does not seal very well by the way, every freaking time I want some glue and use a screw-driver to get dip some out. I went with Elmer's for the next purchase even though I still have plenty of the Tite.
Great video. Thanks so much.
Question to anyone listening. I live in Phoenix. Summers are a struggle. Therefore Titebond 3 used "quickly, but don't hurry", (stolen from the great John Wooden) my question is, winters here are great for working during the day. Nights get down to the high 30's to low 40's for the majority of time.
If I do a glue up during the day and it sets for a few hours with warmer temperatures, will leaving it set overnight , below47 deg. affect the set up?
Thanks so much.
Regards to all,
Jim
I love the video. I was just wondering if you would advise buying a gallon of glue at a time or just a sixteen oz bottleat a time.
Excellent video. Excellent shirt!
I am surprised that you only briefly touched on CA glues, I find they are probably the most useful glue for woodworking. I always keep some titebond 3, hide glue as well as gell and thin CA glues and an activator. I have tried the polyurethane glues but I find the foaming squeeze out always gets stuck in the woods pores, then the only way to get rid of it is to change the dimensions of the piece which is not acceptable in my opinion.
Great explanation👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Excellent! That cleared up a bunch of questions for me. Thanks!
I’ve been on titebond 50 for about 5 years now...that stuff holds like an absolute monster and it’s got a nice working time
Original titebond for joints that aren’t “load bearing”. Titebond 50 for all the critical stuff. Your joints will survive the nuclear apocalypse. Stuff will be flying around everywhere, sure....but the wood will have broken before the glue joint 👍
You didn’t mention Titebond Melmine, it’s really good for sticking non pours surfaces to wood without foaming.
where i live pu glue is cheap but titebond iii is like 22 dollars. needed titebond for cutting boards. i used d3 glue but it was not waterproof.
Can we talk about the Deadpool figure you have hanging on the wall in the background? Lol.... Great video! Thanks!
My project includes reclaimed wood with a satin finish on the wood and desire to make a butcher block style bench top. My question is... will I need to remove the finish so as to not interfere with the gluing strength?
So... I have a question... Can you use WOOD GLUE for things other than wood?
I'm looking for something that would work easily with tongue and groove vinyl laminate flooring, to glue the tongue and groove pieces together, and it DOESN'T have to be a structural hold, it's mainly just to keep the 2 pieces from separating from light moving around, and pulling it out or putting it into, a small cabinet (10 inch wide shelves made from laminate flooring)... I have some titebond 2 around and was wondering if that would work good enough on that, and if it would work on a couple of other pieces as well, that are wood laminate flooring that'll be used for the same purpose. Basically, it's all just scrap wood/vinyl, and i don't have any excess money to spend... I guess I could buy some cheap superglue if that would work better, but if i don't have to, I don't want to...
Thank you for this interesting video. I live in Italy, here we mostly use vinilic glue, it's called Vinavil, and the price is 5€ for 1kg. I am using titebond III and I think I'll never get back to vinilic! The only problem? Here one bottle costs 30€!!!