Great stuff....ever since I started using lacquer for my finishes, it's so much easier to blend in a fill....I get the color as close as I can with stain, then put a couple of coats of finish on it...after that, I can use common acrylic paint to do any necessary touchups (the paint must be thinned down with water and you apply very thin coats until you get the desired color...usually burnt sienna, raw umber and black are suitable either alone or in small combinations....) then apply the 'grain' with some diluted black paint and a small brush...after that, I just finish as normal...works like a charm....a bit more complicated than your method, but you can nearly always get a dead on match....:D
CA glue is an adhesive with terrible sheer strength. Next time, I recommend rotating your finger parallel to the glue. Don't just lift your finger up. That tip has gotten me out of many sticky situations.
Great information, thanks. Have you ever tried saving the dust from random orbit sander's filter and add some stain that you are planning to use then mix with glue? I use this when filling pocket holes, really covers well.
Considering this video is five years old, I can safely assume someone has already noted this tip-but a simple solution to using wood glue which doesn’t accept stain is to apply stain to the chip and damaged areas prior to the bonding application. I’ve been doing this for years with dowel plugs as a precaution for spill over and found that it creates a seamless transition.
I really like "Timber Mate" BUT... having used Timber Mate many times I would advise you NOT to use a METAL spatula (why? stop vid at 3:30 and see that the steel and the product react and create dark grey/black smug lines at the edges after you scrap - believe me they will remain once dry) INSTEAD...USE plastic or your bare fingers to push it to fill the gap you're working on and then once in place you can lightly smooth over the excess (reduces sanding) but leave enough for a little bit of shrinkage as it dries....Timber Mate is great but`you've got to use it right, cheers
Check out Gork's Goodfilla... it's the improved version of Timbermate. No bad smell and none of the metal problem... plus now it comes in a bag which is the only thing we use in our shop now due to no waste.
I've had good results fixing light dents by steaming with a soldering iron. It allows you to really focus on the specific area of the dent. You can also steam the same dent more than once if it doesn't come out the first time. Thanks for the video!
Great video Just one little tip. If you want grainlines in your wood where you have used woodfiller, just bed some ribbons of woodshavings vertically into the woodfiller along the grain when the filler is still soft. Trim them off once it has dried with a craft knife and then When you sand, it will leave the grainlines in. It is more effective in darker woods and those woods with a more defined grain
If I have a slight split or crack along the grain, I often don't bother to match the colour of the wood. I just fill it with a mixture of wood glue and black printmaker's ink (I'm sure black filler would be a better solution, but that's what I have lying around). It looks like spalting!
HELP Wood Whisperer. I’m just starting out, came up with some horrible swirl marks from sander, noticing after I stained, glue marks too. I was going to try and sand areas back down by hand and restain. Now I used wood conditioner before staining as I’m working with poplar( didn’t do my research before purchasing) . Is this the best way to go about a fix? Also after I sanded areas, should I again add conditioner before restaining?
Let me throw my two sense in......filler will spread into the open pours of the adjacent area you are trying to fix and look lousy when it comes time for final finish; especially on open grain woods. It's best to blue tape the adjacent areas around your defect before spreading on filler. Free advice from an old pro.
I've used the steaming method before, but I've taken it one step farther. I had a brass stamp made with my initials, and I will use it to dent the wood before I sand. After you finish the sanding, you steam the wood, this raises the dented initials proud leaving them raised.
How about particle boards covered with Formica (European kitchen doors)? I had to replace the door Invisible hinches but the new one screw holes do not patch original ones. How do I fill the old holes Before outing the new ones?
That "Wooder" instead of "water" and Trenton call out made me lose it. As a dude born and raised in the 609, I heard that way too often! Amazing video, even if I am way late on it!
The founder of the Methodist church said " the man that never made a mistake never made anything " and some one also said the man that made too many mistakes never made much either!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Really thanks for giving the tip on wetting wood and paper towels and iron hoping the scratch gouge comes mostly out of my guitar. It's a natural ash and I thought of sanding and using wood glue and the sand dust but you say it won't take stain or even varnish we'll...yikes that sucks. But I'll try to use the water and iron method thumbs up !
Thanks for the advice. I heard my router take a piece off. So I put my headlamp on and looked all over for it. Found it and you can’t tell it was ever gone.
Hello, I noticed at the end, you were talking about mixing glues with sawdust, and discouraged the practice. I did notice that you didn't talk about mixing regular yellow wood glue with sawdust though. I have had good results with that on minor mistakes where I repaired the mistake by mixing those two together. I have found that different brands stain differently, so I recommend doing a test stain with the wood glue on a piece of scrap, but with the right brand I have a hard time finding my mistakes in the finished product. I also wanted to mention that ironing also works really well for bubbles in real wood veneer from improper adhesion. I have also used an iron before to flatten out warped real wood veneers. Overall, I loved this video. It had a few tips that I have used, and many I would not have thought of.
It is slow to dry and expensive, but liquid hide glue accepts stains and finishes almost comparably to the wood dust (hot hide glue might be better, as it will solidify [freeze] before the water is evaporated, but is a little problematic to work with--you need a coffee pot or somesuch to heat it up for use). I use hide glue & (sanding) wood dust to fill many gaps (esp. marquetry/inlay), scratches, & gouges. Sand /scrape level to the surface once fully dry (~overnight). Avoid heat or moisture afterwards since those reactivate the glue (ie, use only oil based finishes). Since hide glue is gelatin (aspic), if a dog has the run of your shop, it might want to gnaw on your repair. Keep pets away or perhaps add pepper spray to the glue slurry.
Lovely Video clip! Excuse me for chiming in, I am interested in your opinion. Have you ever tried - Rassiff Amazing Woodwork Blaster (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now)? It is a smashing one off guide for woodworking plans without the normal expense. Ive heard some interesting things about it and my close friend Aubrey at last got great success with it.
If you misplace a mortise on the horizontal so that you want to move it to a place where it overlaps where you would make a repair then extend the mortise first THEN add the filler piece with a "false" tenon, taking care not to glue in the tenon. It will mean you don't have to make a fresh plunge cut and save you having to cut into a glued filler piece when making the repair with all the difficulties associated with working across glued wood.
Depends on how loose. You could wet the end of the board, and insert it into the dado before it expands. You could "paint" the end of the board with glue to make it thicker. You could let the shelf rest on the lower side of the dado, and cover the gap on top of the shelf with a quarter-round or fill the gap with filler.
Another great video Marc - never would have though about ironing the work piece. As a side note - I like using hide glue + sawdust to match the work piece perfectly, and take a stain.
I have sanded a bench with 80, 120 and them 220. I am new at this... Didn't know that over sanding would seal the wood and it would not accept stain. I put minwax classic grey on it wanted to match the table. I sanded the pine table the same. It accepted the stain...no problem. But when I went to stain the bench...used same method but the bench did not accept the stain. Can I put dye over the minwax stain? I am desperate. I made this for my son and I had no idea that sanding with 220 would do this. I do now!!!! What are my options. Will the waterbased dye work? Is there a oil based dye? Where to find it in grey? Will I have to paint to try to match as best I can. I really need help......
Hi, Marc! Great video. I just want to point out the reason that you re-chipped out your first repair at the leg bottom. (The one where you used the original chipped-out piece glued back in.) The zoomed-in camera shows that the replaced piece wasn't seated perfectly; I'm sure this wasn't visible to the naked eye. It was not seated all the way to the bottom of the leg. Therefore, at the top end of the piece, the piece was sitting just slightly proud of the workpiece. Therefore, when you planed or sanded it, you caught the edge on the down stroke, tearing out another small piece. You'll see all this just before the 10 min mark. Thanks for the tips!
How do I fix a Ashley Murphy coffee table that has water damage near and around the grooves are raised and missing some wood . sand paper grade? on discrimination it says wood, veener, and engineered wood. 🤔
Hello Marc, it's very rare that i'am able to give you a advise! I own a cabinet shop in Canada and we use the Timbermate wood filler. You should use a plastic putty knife wen applying the filler because a metal one reacts with the Timbermate and make black stick around the wood. Keep on the good work! Alain
"In fact if you didn't know that I did that you probably wouldn't know that it even happened." -- You absolutely nailed it and I kept talking it all the time to my students at the Photoshop photo touch classes.
"You can fix little dents on the wood" OMG OMG OMG O.O!!! YES!! I can fix that main panel dent where hammer drop accidentally!!! "but if fibers are cut then it wont work as well" *Rushes to check panel*...... FU**! I hate my life!.. XD
My biggest mistake is having blunt tools. I have cut myself so many times because I didn't know how to sharpen tools. Now I know and having a razor sharp chisel and a planer knife is worth it's weight in gold. So my technic to repairing mistakes is having an XXL box of band-aids.
AirsoftSlo best bandages, seriously, feminine hygiene maxi pads and gorilla duct tape. My friend who’s a retired gynecologist and woodworker keeps them everywhere
Good tips, thank you. Re drawing grain lines with a colored pencil, sometime I extend the drawn lines past the edge of the repair onto the original wood, fading them as I go. I find it helps the eye travel smoothly form patch to unpatched areas. Additionally, if the pencil is not an exact color match for the grain around the patch, I have found that, if I judiciously draw a few light lines on the wood surrounding the patch, things seem to match after all.
if you poke holes in with a small needle into the dent before you steam out the dents it will do more for those big dents and be sure to sand again as the water or wortr if your from n.jwill lift the fibers and leave a watermark when you stain
Hi Marc have you ever tried to use sawdust together with hide glue or fish glue ? That never made trouble together with the finish.. Also mixing bleached shellac with sawdust worked for me..
I know this is a old video but when i worked on wood floors we would paint grain to hide repairs and when we would have to nail from the top we would nail near the gain and stain the filler to match the grain
Right at the end you just breezed over one of my favorites. On the right repair, like a long thin split maybe, I take epoxy and tint it. The key is to tint it with the stain you will finish with. I just take a stick and scrape the bottom of the can for a little pigment, mix it into the epoxy and use that in the gouge. Works great on knots too. Best used when going for a dark stain.
Thanks for this info, always great to find this type of help that is difficult to find. I also have found that the Birch plywood I'm buying has scratches across it and I realize it is caused by the way we took it off the lift in the box store, pulling the top one off leaving the back edge to drag on the next one, which is usually significant enough to be unable to repair or sand without starting to go through the veneer.
Carpenters glue and sawdust to whatever wood you're working on. You should have sawdust or atleast a cutoff left over to whatever youre working on. Mix them together to make a paste and use that as your filler.
Great video, I really appreciate the tips and tricks to repair my mistakes. I'm the goofball that always drops something or accidentally dents something and then ends up wondering how in the world I am going to fix it...now I know, so thanks!
Yea i had this, i was making a sauna seat thing you know. So my dickwad partner dropped a plank on it with the corner first... it had to be completely replaced as it was a soft wood and deep dent. Really hurst to see that lmao
You seemed to have missed my particular problem. A mis-drilled hole in pine. UGHH. I really don't want to remake the piece I messed up. Plus, it is an outside face. I am trying a dowel as a filler. I don't think the endgrain is going to match. Plus, I plan on sealing the pine and staining with a water based stain.
Thank you so much for your tip of using an iron. Never knew that....used it on some dents that I had as I'm redoing my kitchen with wainscoting and pine boards and it worked like a charm!! Thanks so much!!
Some great tips, some of which I've unfortunately had to use more than once! Here's a tip I would add. I use a 1 1/2" wide plastic spreader for wood filler to prevent the dark stain that metal ones leave on the wood. Seems to me that they acutally deposit metal that you then have to sand out. I believe I could see a bit of that stain in your video.
Do you have videos for beginners who have close to no experience in woodwork? For someone like me who have a deep interest in it and would like to build a passion on woodworking. I would like to know the types of tools needed/used and their specific jobs for its tools and having you demonstrate it, from how to make simple beginner tabletops or desks and drawers for bedrooms to explaining the vocabularies used in woodwork so we can be familiar with those words, etc. I’m sorry if I don’t make sense but thank you for reading my comment!
In a word, no. But all of my projects and videos are intended to be viewable by woodworkers at all levels. Here's the thing, they're all free and they are all there just waiting for you to watch them. And while you might not understand every detail, you can learn an immense amount by simply watching a woodworker build things while explaining what they are doing. I guarantee that if you watch all of my videos, you'll have a very good idea of what the various tools do, how they work, and which ones you'll need to get started. All that said, we have collected our more beginner-friendly videos in this playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLUPWL5TWdx4tqSRo_E7S1I1a38FmFGjww
From the 'Woodworkers Dictionary of Professional Terminology':- MISTAKE - noun - 1. Error or similar, never seen in any woodworking workshop. 2. Professional euphemism, describing a reason for redesign. 3. Reason to remake the video clip.
Tell about the wonderful properties of hot hide glue - e.g. no interference with finishing, strong, doesn't creep, and no need to scrape off old glue before regluing.
Rather than make a filler paste with sawdust and glue, i put glue in the damage, then rub sawdust on top, then repeat as needed, the final layer should be absorbent
Ok I just got my sofa’s upholstered and the guy hammered nails on top of wooden arm rests at various places while putting the sofa together again... Really pissed as the perfectly fine wood is all dented with hammer strikes and the deep nails are visible too... What should I do.. HELP
Great stuff....ever since I started using lacquer for my finishes, it's so much easier to blend in a fill....I get the color as close as I can with stain, then put a couple of coats of finish on it...after that, I can use common acrylic paint to do any necessary touchups (the paint must be thinned down with water and you apply very thin coats until you get the desired color...usually burnt sienna, raw umber and black are suitable either alone or in small combinations....) then apply the 'grain' with some diluted black paint and a small brush...after that, I just finish as normal...works like a charm....a bit more complicated than your method, but you can nearly always get a dead on match....:D
Had a boss who loved reminding us - "If you can fix it, it ain't a mistake" ; - )
I love CA glue! I also love bonding myself to my work with a spray of activator...
Me to
Hey Peter Brown
Protip: Buy a bottle of CA debonder at the same time as the activator! It works wonders for getting fingers unstuck
Omg I’ve left skin and dna on most projects.. several times from ca glue activation, the burn... peroxide helps to get blood stains out.
CA glue is an adhesive with terrible sheer strength. Next time, I recommend rotating your finger parallel to the glue. Don't just lift your finger up. That tip has gotten me out of many sticky situations.
You did not discuss using a board stretcher for when you cut your board too small.
Or the wood magnets for helping hold the workpiece together.
@Les Brown Just cut your tape measure to suit, all fixed ;P
lol!!
Great information, thanks. Have you ever tried saving the dust from random orbit sander's filter and add some stain that you are planning to use then mix with glue? I use this when filling pocket holes, really covers well.
Considering this video is five years old, I can safely assume someone has already noted this tip-but a simple solution to using wood glue which doesn’t accept stain is to apply stain to the chip and damaged areas prior to the bonding application. I’ve been doing this for years with dowel plugs as a precaution for spill over and found that it creates a seamless transition.
My Grandfather always said the Painters job is to hide the carpenters mistakes.
I really like "Timber Mate" BUT...
having used Timber Mate many times I would advise you NOT to use a METAL spatula (why? stop vid at 3:30 and see that the steel and the product react and create dark grey/black smug lines at the edges after you scrap - believe me they will remain once dry) INSTEAD...USE plastic or your bare fingers to push it to fill the gap you're working on and then once in place you can lightly smooth over the excess (reduces sanding) but leave enough for a little bit of shrinkage as it dries....Timber Mate is great but`you've got to use it right, cheers
Check out Gork's Goodfilla... it's the improved version of Timbermate. No bad smell and none of the metal problem... plus now it comes in a bag which is the only thing we use in our shop now due to no waste.
TJ Emory I love the smell of timbermate? Hardly a bad smell
I've had good results fixing light dents by steaming with a soldering iron. It allows you to really focus on the specific area of the dent. You can also steam the same dent more than once if it doesn't come out the first time.
Thanks for the video!
Useless video! I never make mistakes either. Just kidding...my whole life is a chain of mistakes.
yup
lol
Wogness Monster .
Great video
Just one little tip. If you want grainlines in your wood where you have used woodfiller, just bed some ribbons of woodshavings vertically into the woodfiller along the grain when the filler is still soft. Trim them off once it has dried with a craft knife and then When you sand, it will leave the grainlines in. It is more effective in darker woods and those woods with a more defined grain
the first
Light wood like Alder is impossible to hide. The glue, any glue, turns it dark.
If I have a slight split or crack along the grain, I often don't bother to match the colour of the wood. I just fill it with a mixture of wood glue and black printmaker's ink (I'm sure black filler would be a better solution, but that's what I have lying around). It looks like spalting!
Nice T Shirt - a couple of famous Kiwi exports from New Zealand
It's sexy tiiiime....
Crez Cresswell do you have your business socks on?
Flight of the Conchords t-shirt! Our cuz-bro's from across the dutch fromus Aussies! Awesome choice!
Anybody can Fuck up...but it takes a Craftsman to know how to fix it....
You forgot one...caulking. Caulking is a painters friend. "caulking is what the carpenter isnt".
HELP Wood Whisperer. I’m just starting out, came up with some horrible swirl marks from sander, noticing after I stained, glue marks too. I was going to try and sand areas back down by hand and restain. Now I used wood conditioner before staining as I’m working with poplar( didn’t do my research before purchasing) . Is this the best way to go about a fix? Also after I sanded areas, should I again add conditioner before restaining?
Let me throw my two sense in......filler will spread into the open pours of the adjacent area you are trying to fix and look lousy when it comes time for final finish; especially on open grain woods. It's best to blue tape the adjacent areas around your defect before spreading on filler. Free advice from an old pro.
I've used the steaming method before, but I've taken it one step farther. I had a brass stamp made with my initials, and I will use it to dent the wood before I sand. After you finish the sanding, you steam the wood, this raises the dented initials proud leaving them raised.
How about particle boards covered with Formica (European kitchen doors)? I had to replace the door Invisible hinches but the new one screw holes do not patch original ones. How do I fill the old holes Before outing the new ones?
That "Wooder" instead of "water" and Trenton call out made me lose it. As a dude born and raised in the 609, I heard that way too often! Amazing video, even if I am way late on it!
*Yes....Flight of The Concords. Excellent!*
The founder of the Methodist church said " the man that never made a mistake never made anything " and some one also said the man that made too many mistakes never made much either!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Was that your wife helping you? That's great! Thanks for the tips!
yes, that was his wife in the background
Women make everything better 🙏💙💙
"Where'd you get that?" "....the store" comedy gold~
You got my sub just for the shirt!
Really thanks for giving the tip on wetting wood and paper towels and iron hoping the scratch gouge comes mostly out of my guitar. It's a natural ash and I thought of sanding and using wood glue and the sand dust but you say it won't take stain or even varnish we'll...yikes that sucks. But I'll try to use the water and iron method thumbs up !
Thanks for the advice. I heard my router take a piece off. So I put my headlamp on and looked all over for it. Found it and you can’t tell it was ever gone.
I What colors of timbermate whould you recommend if I can only buy 6 colors mix and match
The best fix is your shirt! (as voted at the last band meeting)
Hello,
I noticed at the end, you were talking about mixing glues with sawdust, and discouraged the practice. I did notice that you didn't talk about mixing regular yellow wood glue with sawdust though. I have had good results with that on minor mistakes where I repaired the mistake by mixing those two together. I have found that different brands stain differently, so I recommend doing a test stain with the wood glue on a piece of scrap, but with the right brand I have a hard time finding my mistakes in the finished product.
I also wanted to mention that ironing also works really well for bubbles in real wood veneer from improper adhesion. I have also used an iron before to flatten out warped real wood veneers.
Overall, I loved this video. It had a few tips that I have used, and many I would not have thought of.
he mentioned "Titebond", which is regular yellow wood glue
It is slow to dry and expensive, but liquid hide glue accepts stains and finishes almost comparably to the wood dust (hot hide glue might be better, as it will solidify [freeze] before the water is evaporated, but is a little problematic to work with--you need a coffee pot or somesuch to heat it up for use). I use hide glue & (sanding) wood dust to fill many gaps (esp. marquetry/inlay), scratches, & gouges. Sand /scrape level to the surface once fully dry (~overnight). Avoid heat or moisture afterwards since those reactivate the glue (ie, use only oil based finishes). Since hide glue is gelatin (aspic), if a dog has the run of your shop, it might want to gnaw on your repair. Keep pets away or perhaps add pepper spray to the glue slurry.
Need filler to dry faster? Use blow dryer or heat gun but don't get too close unless you like the scorched wood look.
flight of the concords....nice :)
Appreciate you advertising The Flight of the Concords.......we are very proud of our Kiwi comedians doing so well on the international stage
You can make wood putty by mixing saw dust and wood glue folks🤔
"can we pretend that didn't happen?"
"Uhhh"
"That wasn't a question"
😂😂😂
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Great video, I enjoyed watching :)
Lovely Video clip! Excuse me for chiming in, I am interested in your opinion. Have you ever tried - Rassiff Amazing Woodwork Blaster (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now)? It is a smashing one off guide for woodworking plans without the normal expense. Ive heard some interesting things about it and my close friend Aubrey at last got great success with it.
What about mixing sawdust with wood filler to match the the color of the wood?
Love your wife’s Side comments - you should put a mic on her!
If you misplace a mortise on the horizontal so that you want to move it to a place where it overlaps where you would make a repair then extend the mortise first THEN add the filler piece with a "false" tenon, taking care not to glue in the tenon.
It will mean you don't have to make a fresh plunge cut and save you having to cut into a glued filler piece when making the repair with all the difficulties associated with working across glued wood.
Kudos to the cameraman/girl LOL should get more credit on behind the since work LOL :D
Heard you mention "trenton" my shop is in trenton, nj. Grew up right outside of it in hamilton.
Not sure if you’re still watching these comments, but if you could talk through repairs on a loose dado my shelf would thank you.
Depends on how loose. You could wet the end of the board, and insert it into the dado before it expands. You could "paint" the end of the board with glue to make it thicker. You could let the shelf rest on the lower side of the dado, and cover the gap on top of the shelf with a quarter-round or fill the gap with filler.
Good video, Liked and Subscribed... Yay Nicole.
Another great video Marc - never would have though about ironing the work piece. As a side note - I like using hide glue + sawdust to match the work piece perfectly, and take a stain.
That gold hammer! :D
I have sanded a bench with 80, 120 and them 220. I am new at this... Didn't know that over sanding would seal the wood and it would not accept stain. I put minwax classic grey on it wanted to match the table. I sanded the pine table the same. It accepted the stain...no problem. But when I went to stain the bench...used same method but the bench did not accept the stain. Can I put dye over the minwax stain? I am desperate. I made this for my son and I had no idea that sanding with 220 would do this. I do now!!!! What are my options. Will the waterbased dye work? Is there a oil based dye? Where to find it in grey? Will I have to paint to try to match as best I can. I really need help......
Boy oh boy, I can remember doing many of these type pf repairs back when I had a picture framing business.
Looking at your shop, I can tell that you are the most beautiful woodworker in the shop. In the whole wide shop.
Got it. The shirt. Very nicely done!
and third-best looking woodworker on the block. It's a very good looking block.
Hi, Marc! Great video. I just want to point out the reason that you re-chipped out your first repair at the leg bottom. (The one where you used the original chipped-out piece glued back in.) The zoomed-in camera shows that the replaced piece wasn't seated perfectly; I'm sure this wasn't visible to the naked eye. It was not seated all the way to the bottom of the leg. Therefore, at the top end of the piece, the piece was sitting just slightly proud of the workpiece. Therefore, when you planed or sanded it, you caught the edge on the down stroke, tearing out another small piece. You'll see all this just before the 10 min mark. Thanks for the tips!
How do I fix a Ashley Murphy coffee table that has water damage near and around the grooves are raised and missing some wood . sand paper grade? on discrimination it says wood, veener, and engineered wood. 🤔
i should be doing homework idk what i'm even doing here LOL
but great video!
Hello Marc, it's very rare that i'am able to give you a advise! I own a cabinet shop in Canada and we use the Timbermate wood filler.
You should use a plastic putty knife wen applying the filler because a metal one reacts with the Timbermate and make black stick around the wood.
Keep on the good work!
Alain
Cool tip. Thanks Alain!
Just make your own filler using dust from the type of wood you're using...
Hilarious when the compressor came on - thanks for 'keeping it real'!
"In fact if you didn't know that I did that you probably wouldn't know that it even happened." -- You absolutely nailed it and I kept talking it all the time to my students at the Photoshop photo touch classes.
Glue and Sawdust works IF you stain the dust first. Staining after, well, good luck with that.
"You can fix little dents on the wood" OMG OMG OMG O.O!!! YES!! I can fix that main panel dent where hammer drop accidentally!!!
"but if fibers are cut then it wont work as well" *Rushes to check panel*......
FU**! I hate my life!.. XD
Can I fix a stained area that had glue and would not stain?
Have used sanding sealer as the carrier for wood dust with good effect, even with stains.
My biggest mistake is having blunt tools. I have cut myself so many times because I didn't know how to sharpen tools. Now I know and having a razor sharp chisel and a planer knife is worth it's weight in gold. So my technic to repairing mistakes is having an XXL box of band-aids.
AirsoftSlo best bandages, seriously, feminine hygiene maxi pads and gorilla duct tape. My friend who’s a retired gynecologist and woodworker keeps them everywhere
AirsoftSlo and you can soak them with water put them in a plastic bag, laying flat or lay over an ice cream container and freeze them. Great ice pack
Nice shirt! Its business time!
Good tips, thank you. Re drawing grain lines with a colored pencil, sometime I extend the drawn lines past the edge of the repair onto the original wood, fading them as I go. I find it helps the eye travel smoothly form patch to unpatched areas. Additionally, if the pencil is not an exact color match for the grain around the patch, I have found that, if I judiciously draw a few light lines on the wood surrounding the patch, things seem to match after all.
if you poke holes in with a small needle into the dent before you steam out the dents it will do more for those big dents and be sure to sand again as the water or wortr if your from n.jwill lift the fibers and leave a watermark when you stain
Ooops I have to turn off my compressor..... SUBSCRIBED! I like that you left that in.
Hi Marc have you ever tried to use sawdust together with hide glue or fish glue ? That never made trouble together with the finish.. Also mixing bleached shellac with sawdust worked for me..
Love your wife comments. Steal the show... Great tips.
Nice tricks. I recently found your channel and subscribed. I have lots to learn.
Great demo! You have beautiful hands and a nice voice. Thank you.
Yes honey i am steaming my wood ......i spit coffee all over the monitor LOL !
great video and really good tips for small repairs
I know this is a old video but when i worked on wood floors we would paint grain to hide repairs and when we would have to nail from the top we would nail near the gain and stain the filler to match the grain
Right at the end you just breezed over one of my favorites. On the right repair, like a long thin split maybe, I take epoxy and tint it. The key is to tint it with the stain you will finish with. I just take a stick and scrape the bottom of the can for a little pigment, mix it into the epoxy and use that in the gouge. Works great on knots too. Best used when going for a dark stain.
Thanks for this info, always great to find this type of help that is difficult to find. I also have found that the Birch plywood I'm buying has scratches across it and I realize it is caused by the way we took it off the lift in the box store, pulling the top one off leaving the back edge to drag on the next one, which is usually significant enough to be unable to repair or sand without starting to go through the veneer.
Timber Mate, I'm gonna use some Maple beech ,and pine FLAVOR.
LOL how did it taste?
Carpenters glue and sawdust to whatever wood you're working on. You should have sawdust or atleast a cutoff left over to whatever youre working on.
Mix them together to make a paste and use that as your filler.
Did you ever want to make a sound reducing cabinet for your compressor? They're nice. Thanks for the video.
Great video, I really appreciate the tips and tricks to repair my mistakes. I'm the goofball that always drops something or accidentally dents something and then ends up wondering how in the world I am going to fix it...now I know, so thanks!
Yea i had this, i was making a sauna seat thing you know. So my dickwad partner dropped a plank on it with the corner first... it had to be completely replaced as it was a soft wood and deep dent. Really hurst to see that lmao
You seemed to have missed my particular problem. A mis-drilled hole in pine. UGHH. I really don't want to remake the piece I messed up. Plus, it is an outside face. I am trying a dowel as a filler. I don't think the endgrain is going to match. Plus, I plan on sealing the pine and staining with a water based stain.
You can buy a set of plug cutters inexpensively, and cut a plug from a similar piece of stock; only requires a bit of care in placement.
Thank you so much for your tip of using an iron. Never knew that....used it on some dents that I had as I'm redoing my kitchen with wainscoting and pine boards and it worked like a charm!! Thanks so much!!
I make my own filler with PVA glue and sawdust from whatever I'm working on. Guaranteed colour match :)
Some great tips, some of which I've unfortunately had to use more than once! Here's a tip I would add. I use a 1 1/2" wide plastic spreader for wood filler to prevent the dark stain that metal ones leave on the wood. Seems to me that they acutally deposit metal that you then have to sand out. I believe I could see a bit of that stain in your video.
The thin super glue is great for Luthier work, use it with some baking soda and you can fix the nut on the guitar like new!
Do you have videos for beginners who have close to no experience in woodwork? For someone like me who have a deep interest in it and would like to build a passion on woodworking. I would like to know the types of tools needed/used and their specific jobs for its tools and having you demonstrate it, from how to make simple beginner tabletops or desks and drawers for bedrooms to explaining the vocabularies used in woodwork so we can be familiar with those words, etc. I’m sorry if I don’t make sense but thank you for reading my comment!
In a word, no. But all of my projects and videos are intended to be viewable by woodworkers at all levels. Here's the thing, they're all free and they are all there just waiting for you to watch them. And while you might not understand every detail, you can learn an immense amount by simply watching a woodworker build things while explaining what they are doing. I guarantee that if you watch all of my videos, you'll have a very good idea of what the various tools do, how they work, and which ones you'll need to get started. All that said, we have collected our more beginner-friendly videos in this playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLUPWL5TWdx4tqSRo_E7S1I1a38FmFGjww
The Wood Whisperer thank you!
What are these "Mistakes" of which you speak?
;)
From the 'Woodworkers Dictionary of Professional Terminology':-
MISTAKE - noun - 1. Error or similar, never seen in any woodworking workshop. 2. Professional euphemism, describing a reason for redesign. 3. Reason to remake the video clip.
Great vid as always. You're making me sick beating the hell out of that walnut. My favorite wood that I can never afford!
Tell about the wonderful properties of hot hide glue - e.g. no interference with finishing, strong, doesn't creep, and no need to scrape off old glue before regluing.
Flavoured wood filler sounds strange.
The way you hang your saws commands respect :D
Could not agree more about the CA glue! Use it all the time! Great suggestions...
Regards!
Chris
Lol "her" mistake, yeah ok buddy
Trenton, NJ woodworking represent! Your "water" pronunciation sounded fine to me!
Even though I never make any mistakes, I appreciate your well made and educational video.
Thanks, Marc!!
Rather than make a filler paste with sawdust and glue, i put glue in the damage, then rub sawdust on top, then repeat as needed, the final layer should be absorbent
This is REALLY useful stuff! Awesome and thank you for sharing this all!
Thanks a lot for these informations and remedies. We certainly will use them.
Dude the mortice joints in your table are all off and you said you never made those mistakes, LOL...
Dude the mortice joints in your table are all off and you said you never made those mistakes, LOL...
a cup of wooder sounds good to a camden boy
Ok I just got my sofa’s upholstered and the guy hammered nails on top of wooden arm rests at various places while putting the sofa together again... Really pissed as the perfectly fine wood is all dented with hammer strikes and the deep nails are visible too... What should I do.. HELP