Comparing Surge Protectors: Siemens FS140, Ditek and Eaton Ultra showdown.
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2022
- --ABR Electric in McKinney TX
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You are correct that any SPD is better than none. However, when selecting a unit the most important thing to ensure is that it has the UL1449 4th edition or later listed. Then it needs to be rated for the correct location, Type 1 service entrance while Type 2 is for locations downstream like sub panel. Of course, It should match your voltage. Finally, select spd that has a max surge current rating of 50kA or more.
For homeowners, this is really about all you need to look it.
I enjoy watching your channel. Thank you.
No, thank you!
The "ABR Electric" emblem is way too small, it's not covering enough of the screen.
Ok. We'll look at that
😂 could be a LITTLE bit bigger 🤣
This is a good point about the emblem/logo needing to be a bit bigger.
The logo is also off center.
I think increasing the size and centering the logo would be a great improvement.
I was having trouble a few years ago selecting a unit. I couldn’t really notice any differences between them. I just figured something was better than nothing and bought the Eaton model.
Good video. Thanks for sharing your notes and research.
Good job getting it done!
I would say the important parameter to look for should be the MOV's energy rating (in joules). MOV's basically absorb energy when ever the surge exceeds the voltage threshold. They can only hold so much before they heat up and quit. The thermally protected devices can hold more because they don't heat up as much. This rating is basically tells you how big the device is. The bigger they are the more they cost of course. I don't even see this rating on the devices you showed.... The current rating is also a pretty decent way of evaluating the device's capacity though.
Just found your channel and Great stuff so far. I'm just about done building my retirement dream shop and Surge protection just come to me in a dream last night. With mini splits, hybrid water heater and other fancy stuff in the building I really want to go all out on it. Keep up the content & Yes I subscribed and hit the bell
Way to go!
Thanks James! I wish you had put links to find the surge protectors ... especially the Ditek model which you didn't mention and number for? I haven't found it anywhere.
Thanks for the great video. I've been striked by a surge and no learning about surge protectors for the Whole home. Have you checked out the Intermatic Whole-House Surge Protection are they good? How do they compare to the Siemens FS140 Whole House Surge Protector? The reason that I'm even considering the Intermatic is because they have replaceable modules? What are your thoughts? I'm learning about this.
I installed the FS140 today. It was a easy install. I noticed a line voltage drop through out my home and shed. Before 123.5 voltage reading was the norm. Now it's 121.0 voltage reading. My home has two other surge suppression devices on the central ac unit one inside and one outside. Plus 5 battery backups TV, three in computer room and 3d printer. And one covering three laser engraving machines 😊😊
The 2.5 volt drop is interesting. It seems unusual based on only the SPD installation
@Laserwurks - Please review your installation!
There should be no voltage drop with the simple addition of the FS140.
I just installed several in my home and, as I anticipated, zero drop in voltage.
I have 2x 120/240 vac single phase 200a services for my home.
I bought the last 2 adjacent lots of a residential development and all underground services were run already and easements would have been a nightmare to deal with. (also.. the cheap ass developer direct buried everything WITHOUT conduit. Even CATV and telco were run 12” below grade without any protection OR ability to pull in replacement or upgraded cable/fiber).
I have a UFER grounding electrode system because of 2-way radio repeaters and other RF gear.
I ended up mounting several copper grounding bus bars in a NEMA 3r enclosure for equipotential grounding/bonding of everything, so I’m pretty confident about the reliability of the grounding side of things and used a 2-pole 20a QO breaker in each panel for the FS140’s.
And…. After installing everything,
The voltage to neutral/ground from each phase remained identical.
And.. ABR:
Thanks n for this channel as videos !
thank you...
FYI
Thecspecvin the Siemens fs140 was only tested with the cable st 6 inches Siemens tech support told me when I asked. He explained that if any longer cable to the panel to shorten cable as much as possible. He slso said to twist the wires from the fs140 uniformly as muvh as possible before connecting to panel if I recall. I forgot exactly what he said butbif I recall, twisting the wires if using longer than 6 inches helped reduce the difference in the spec. I had the data somewhere after talking yltoma seasoned electrical engineer which showed me the Siemens spec was significantly worse in the specs if cable 36ninches versus 6 inches. Of course the Siemens manual doesn't discuss this but I sm positive via double checking with Siemens that the spec is for a 6vinch cable length only
One correction. When we got solar panels, we replace our old 100 amp panel with a new 200 and took advantage of that to place in a Eaton Ultra (CHSPT2ULTRA). The 5 year warranty is for the cheaper CHSPT2SURGE model ($50 versus $140). The Ultra has a "for the life of the product" warranty. The reimbursement coverage is different as well (CHSPT2SURGE = $25,000,
CHSPT2ULTRA = $75,000). Those values are "secondary" coverage to what gets covered by one's homeowner insurance policy. Another think I'd mention in your installation videos is that the warranties require proof of purchase of the original surge protector so as backup we place a copy of the receipt in a small plastic bag attached to the back of the unit.
Finally, one difference you might want to point out is if there is an audio alarm. Most, like the Eaton Ultra I have just have indicator lights so you'll have to notice when the device gets knocked out. The Siemens FS140 has an audible alarm but alas they were out of stock everywhere when our installation was being done.
Joe, thank you! That is great, practical information!
The warranty is for a defect in workmanship or parts of the surge protector, NOT a warranty to replace it once it takes a surge and sacrifices itself.
Scanning the receipt to your computer will provide a backup that doesn't fade out and become unreadable.
Here's a review from Amazon on the Badwolf surge protector
From the United States
Frog
1.0 out of 5 stars Sceptical at best
Reviewed in the United States on June 29, 2022
This is NOT a "real" company. The LLC is listed in Hudson FL...at a residence. Their mailing address is a PO box inside a UPS store. They don't make these according to their own post here--someone else does and they just resell them under their name. No UL or CE listing on the device?? Too many red flags...will definitely pass on this--not worth the risk.
51 people found this helpful
Good catch, people need to research like you did, I did on some stock and found this "fantastic" ocean shipping company (Castor maritime) everyone was talking about was run by just one guy and his sister, I googled the office address and it was an apartment in Cyprus, first thing I saw in Google street view nearby was metal gates over shut storefronts, graffiti all over, and steel bars over windows- never a good neighborhood sign!
The sister ran the ship crew details, they were buying used container ships but they were old OLD ships nearing end of life, and they paid CASH for them which was another red flag, they could have scrapped the ships, cashed in, and skipped off with lots of money, no thanks!}Their stock dropped WAY down, they sold off some ships too, again, you really have to research ANYTHING you buy these days- both product AND company selling them!
Hello, great video for those of us who aren't engineers or electricians. I (Florida resident) currently have a DTK 120/240 CM+ on the main electrical panel and was told by an electrician that a higher VPR protector was recommended. I'm leaning towards the Ditek (in your video) to be installed on/in the main panel and separate SPs on each of the two outside/central AC units. Do you have a recommendation of the VPR of SPs for the outside AC units, or a brand model #? Thank you.
I recommend the one with the best warranty: in Florida, those SPDs are going to take a beating. For the ACs, look at PSP, Intermatic and Ditek. Their VPRs are not terribly different and you're using them with a main panel unot.
James. You’re a funny dude. You make me wish I started out as an electrician years ago. Miss seeing you @ VA First AG
George, what an awesome surprise! How are you?
I’m good thanks for asking. You look good man. Good to see you, so glad I found your channel and looking forward to your future informative videos. Currently doing electrical work in the street lighting division for the city of Santa Monica in California
@@WESTCOAST805SPARKY awesome!
How does VPR relate to "clamping Voltage"- the point at which the spike is shut off, and the amount of time it takes to get there - speed of response to the spike?
Seriously looking at the Ditek... For the HVAC condenser and the furnace with the circuit board protection. The DTK-HVACKIT, any thoughts?
Ditek is a solid unit. Compare specs and warranty in the fine print, with other brands, i.e. Intermatic and Square D make an AC unit
Thanks for the video very informative, I do not have room in my main breaker panel what is the disadvantage of putting it in our sub panel?
The farther from the main breaker and main feeders you are, the less effective the surge protector is. I've moved circuits to the subpanel to make room for the SPD near the main.
Doing some research myself, as I understand it, the impedance of your ground connection is an important factor, and a low impedance ground is necessary to shunt the surge to ground, especially in a lightning scenario. Your thoughts on this?
My emphasis was to remind people to check their system grounding- connection to earth. We get too focused on the particulars of the SPD and overlook the core value of a low impedance connection to earth.
I see you have installed the FS140 replacing the Ultra. Other than your mention here, I can't seem to find much anything about Ditek. Looking today at the specs on the Ultra, they have a lifetime warranty. All that said, recently got a surge from a storm and it took out lots of equipment. Do you feel a Type 1 is better than Type 2? Can you speak to performance of a Ditek? Great content and thanks for your thoughts.
I moved tge Ultra to my garage subpanel. I prefer the type 2: easier to locate and I'm not fussing at the main breaker or the meter socket. I have no personal experience yet with Ditek. Overall, make sure your service is grounded properly and keep your wires short on your SPD. Whatever you choose will be better than you have now:)
Eaton Ultra are lifetime the one I saw in your hand, blue ring... the Micro are 5 year... red ring
Have been shopping for surge protectors, and most of the connected equipment warranties that I've read require the home owner to file an insurance claim first and only purport to pay the deductible or uncovered damages. Since filing any insurance claim these days can cost the homeowners thousands in extra premiums over the seven years it takes for the claim to drop from public records, it hardly seems worth taking advantage of that warranty for anything less than catastrophic.
Good advice.
We made three claims against our homeowner's policy (State Farm) and they cancelled our policy. We were with them for 20 + years and only had the 3 claims.
I'm in Phoenix we get lot of lighting in the summer the grid sometimes will shut off for a few seconds then turn back on again.
Great videos. Need some clarification, a little late, but curious. My electrician recommended the psp vortex surge protector which is installed after the meter in outside panel over the hom2175sb for inside panel. Big difference in cost but he convinced me the vortex was much better since I reside in S.Florida, lightning capital. Any thoughts?
Did he give any measurable performance details? Or compare it to other main brands?
The specs looked solid when I researched that unit
Have had the standard eaton onw for 11 or 12 years. No issues
Nice video. My home suffers from over voltage. Should be 230 but can hit 260, I'm in Europe, and knock the RCD out = no power until the voltage drops and I reset the switch.
The power company blames a large solar installation nearby, but anyway, will these surge protectors keep my power on if there is over voltage for a couple of hours or so I need something called a power conditioner?
Thanks
Glenn
For sustained over voltage, you need a power conditioner. For back up power, you need batteries or a generator.
@@abrelectric Thanks for the reply.
I think the response time is very important. From my research one should have a response time of
I would love to have the lab equipment to test these types of specs myself. I think a lot of doubt and confusion are created by the lack of common terms, and misleading marketing.
Thank you
I installed the Siemes FS140, real simple, hardest part of all was finding a short connector between the unit and my breaker panel, but since it was 3/4" pipe thread I bought a 2" nipple and 3 , 3/4" nuts and connected it in and tightened the nuts up.
I still don't find any good visual explanation of HOW exactly these work, the unit only has 10Ga wires and the blacks are going into only a 20 amp breaker, yet claims it handles 100,000 amps or whatever, and if it's wired to a 20 amp breaker and only 10GA wires, I don't see how this stops surges.
I could see how it would do this if both power lines and ground went THROUGH this unit first (like a main breaker) and then the house wiring tapping off the outlet wires, but that's not the way they are designed.
I understand your question - it doesn't work like switches, breakers or plugs. Maybe we need a video explaining the physics of how these work?
Is the thermally protected unit a type 1? I used first surge at the outside csed panel, and panel mounted ones on the inside main lug panel. OBTW nothing protects from direct lightning strike. Best outcome is surge device a smoking hole outside house, and none of your appliances started a fire- they are still going in a dumpster.
You are right. Most of the manufacturers directly exclude damage from lightning in their warranty. God territory- you just do your best
Would a whole home surge protector negate the need for a dedicated HVAC protector such as the DITEK DTK-120/240CM+ Surge ARRESTOR, Parallel Protector?
Not at all. Layering the protection is a great idea. The worse the grid power or lightning activity is, the more important the layers are.
@@abrelectric Great! Thanks
What about when power goes on n off, are there surges involved? Are these units designed for lightning strikes only?
The grid surges you're mentioning are the target of the SPD
I have a question that is confusing me. So I'm replacing the breaker panel, I will be installing a generator back feed breaker with interlock. The breaker panel has neutral and ground separated, they will be bonded at the main disconnect. The generator has a 4 prone 30 amp non gfci Outlet, so two hot, one neutral and one ground. My generator is a generac exl8000 with bonded neutral and ground. Does the generator need to be floating neutral or bonded to plug it into the house using the back feed? A video from you would be awesome about it and a simple good explanation 😁
Leonel, do you have a separate main disconnect, that feeds a subpanel with your branch circuits? The subpanel doesn't have a main breaker right?
@@abrelectric the way its setup, is the main disconnect breaker is right after the meter outside, from there it feeds the breaker panel in the garage that has all the breakers for all the circuits in the house. No other panels are installed and the breaker panel in the house has its own 200 amp disconnect breaker, but it is fed from the outside 200 amp disconnect.
@@leonelsway you'll need to install your interlock outside at the main, or add a main breaker inside to the subpanel. You can leave the neutral - ground bond on the generator. UNLESS the generator MB is GFCI protected, in which case you'd have to remove the bonding jumper in the generator to prevent nuisance tripping.
@@abrelectric I'm replacing the main breaker panel next Saturday. The new GE panel has a 200 amp disconnect breaker. That will let me install the inter lock for the generator. The 200 breaker will basically be a disconnect from the outside main disconnect.
@@leonelsway When Ca. was having the power shutoffs due to fires (cough B.S. cough) I made my own mains disconnect at the breaker panel. It had a mains breaker. The AHJ said, "sure, why not. As long as it works properly and cannot back feed the lines." So, I did and had it inspected and approved with a county sticker. YMMV . Check with your county electrical code inspector. It was easy to make from aluminum plate.
The only issue I can't understand is why these surge protectors can't be installed directly to the bus bars if it is so critical they are installed closest to the source the power panel? I hate having to move all of my breakers down to install another double pole breaker for the surge protector. Do they all install through a c/b on the panel? Don't any have their own breakers? I know Siemens makes one that can also be used as a normal breaker but I still have to move all of my breakers down in the panel. My main disconnect is outside and I don't have one on my sub panels. I hate that too but seems to be standard in the South where I live.
I have installed a bunch of surge protectors and always wondered about that low impedance connection. Lately I was asked to install a surge protective device in every one of 27 subpanels in a hotel. Turns out they were 3 phase panels so I had to find a 3 phase surge protector. Much to my surprise, the installation instructions on the one I chose said to slip the 3 line wires from the surge into the main lugs feeding the subpanel (plus a line to the neutral). Clearly this is the best way to do it and I suppose the residential ones don't mention this because it would be dangerous for DIYers to do it on a main panel and would mess up torqued main lugs. Should be fine if you are adding a second layer of protection at a subpanel or an A/C disconnect.
I ended up letting my Utility company install the "Meter Treeter" surge protector at the meter socket base. They charge $5.95 a month for this but no installation charges. They also tested my ground rod resistance (17 Ohms) and also maintain it. I do have to keep it for a minimum of 36 months. I have 3 sub panels that are over 50 feet from the meter and felt like this was the best bang for my buck right now. I could still add sub panel SPD down the road if I think my surges are being generated within the house. I personally believe it is usually when power goes out or fluctuates during storms.
@@JamesAllen-tj5nu
Here's a question: How does a device wired to breakers inside a service panel protect against a surge? I'm specifically talking about the EMP-Shield device that supposedly protects against nuclear EMP. It gets wired to two 20A breakers & ground. Doesn't a surge protector have to be between the source and the circuit it protects? Besides that, any high-energy EMP will penetrate the house and fry anything electronic inside, regardless what's 'protecting' the incoming power. Same for vehicle EMP protection. I think it's a high-priced scam preying on people's fears.
I agree that a lot of the marketing is fear-based and makes unsupported claims. The SPDs that are legit have value, but none of them are bullet proof or without limitation.
my question about all the EMP claims is if your electrical system is protected from an EMP what real world difference does that make anyway? the power plant and all the transmission will be fried so where does your protected house get its power from??? and if there is a nuclear EMP surge protection is probably the least of our problems anyway 😂
@@anonimous596 Nuclear weapons are not the only source of EMPs. Lightning and other electrostatic discharge is a form of EMP. Solar storms or even a meteor breaking up in earth's atmosphere can cause them too. And the emp from a high altitude nuke could theoretically affect a whole continent, so you need not be anywhere near the actual blast. Whether or not these devices actually protect against them without wrapping you home in a Faraday cage, your guess is as good as mine. Seems like a gimmick to me.
@@mikeyc2601 good point but i was only saying that if my individual home is protected but the rest of the system isnt ? ?? anyway thanks!
Well, it's now REQUIRED by code in new installations as well as upgrades, so the NEC code committee has done the research and found it effective enough to pass the new code rule requiring it, you don't have a choice on the matter now since the 2020 change;
230.67 “A Type 1 or Type 2
surge protective device (SPD)
is required to be installed
on dwelling unit services.
The SPD may be integral to
or adjacent to the electrical
service. Additionally, an SPD
will be required when an
existing service is replaced.”
All services supplying the
following occupancies shall be
provided with an SPD:
• Dwelling units
• Dormitory units
• Guest rooms and guest suites
of hotels and motels
• Areas of nursing homes and
limited care facilities used
exclusively as patient
sleeping rooms
Code Change Summary: New code section. Surge protection is now required for all dwelling unit services.
In the 2020 NEC®, a Type 1 or Type 2 surge protective device (SPD) will be required for dwelling unit services. The SPD may be integral to or adjacent to the electrical service. Additionally, an SPD will be required when an existing service is replaced.
The code committee statement regarding the new code section expressed that this code change addresses the need for surge protection to properly protect the sensitive electronics present in most modern appliances as well as safety devices (AFCI, GFCI and smoke/carbon monoxide detection) and other equipment commonly found in dwellings.
hey can you do one on the AC condenser surge protectors??? --- I dont know if you've shopped for one recently but man!!!! here in 2023 you're gonna drop some serious cash on those things!!!!! I am adding whole home one as soon as it gets here (eaton ultra was what I wound up with - couldn't find the FS for reasonable $$ ) but I want to protect those AC condensers as much as I can (since they are apparently now made of solid gold) - which one of the AC protectors would be worth getting in addition to the whole home eaton one? or is the whole panel one realistically enough? and how important are the AC ones to have? -- I live here in hot as H. (heck, I said heck) North Texas ---- I need my AC to survive! thanks - great videos btw.
Look up Zero Surge on the internet. It's a transformer based surge protector with some additional electronics. But the transformer does almost all the work. Not cheap; but the transformer never dies either.
If I install a whole house surge protector at my service panel do I also need to place one at my A/C furnace unit or is it necessary ?
I would install a unit at the AC disconnect. It's another layer.
@@abrelectric which one would you instal? and can you do a video on that? i live in NTX and just invested a lot in new acs id like to protect them. the specific question i have on it is wiring, most of the videos show people wiring them double to the same terminal on the disconnect which i thought was not a good thing, whats the right way to instal it?
@anonimous596 My primary spd is the FS140.
The AC SPDs are commonly tap wired at the disconnect. These are type 1 units and have no amperage draw. You could also pigtail there instead or install the spd at the condenser j-box and potentially avoid double lugging.
@@abrelectric thanks, my primary is also the FS140 (installed using your videos thanks!!!!! - I'm just outside your service area) what is the proper way to do this? double lugging (connecting the Spd and the AC load to same screw on the disconnect) is what is usually shown if I look up how to instal - is that ok? also if I pigtail them, Im going to need what 8ga wire? correct? my systems are 4 and 3 ton so 40 and 30 amp breakers.
You are my research.
First of all I Love your video. Just to let you know I'm not an engineer or an Electrician. I just know the basic and that is why I watch video like yours to learn more. I have a question regarding Surge Protector and how some surge protector work. I'm talking about the one you install next to the unit like the AC compressor unit. I saw a video in installing a ICM493 and the connection to this connected is like a series connection. I can understand how it work. The surge will get detected by the ICM493 first before the AC compressor so it can cut off the power to the compressor. But the one that connect like a parallel connection like the ICM518 or the RSH50. Its connected or pigtailed to the L1 and L2 of the wires that goes into the AC compressor unit. Since it shares the same wire, when the line get a surge, it will send that surge to the AC compressor and the surge protector. Can you shed a little more light in how protector like the ICM518 or RSH50 protect my AC compressor. Thanks, Phil
What do you think about a Siemens BoltShield QSPD?
I like the FS140 better. The BoltShield has good specs, but still not as good as the FS140 in my opinion.
I am liking your content but that 30 second intro on the videos is painfully long, IMHO. It would be great if it was 10 seconds or less 😊
Thanks for the feedback John. I'll see what we can do with that. How's the volume on that intro?
@@abrelectric Thanks. The volume of the intro seems quite a bit louder than the rest of the video. So that might mean the intro is too loud or that the rest of the video's volume needs to be increased 🤷♂
The volume was incredibly loud on the into…. I do agree it was a bit long
@@goosesmom7926 got it, thank you. We've shortened the intro on our newer videos
@@abrelectric I agree, but I usually watch on a PC and just zap past it
Still a mystery how 2 20 amp wires connected just like another appliance, can disconnect the whole house when a surge hits. Just shunting down a surge of long duration, like a primary on the pole hitting a secondary cannot be enough.
Great video but the intro should be the same sound level as your video. It sucks having to lower the volume for the intro then having to increase the volume to hear you!
Got it, thanks!
So the Siemens is sacrificial and must be replaced after an event?
Yes, after an event that "puts its lights out".
Talk to every one you see at the Home Depot! Don't take all the advice you come across of course. A rare conversation might occur, much like my stumbling upon this random You Tube vid. Abrelectric might know some stuff. Most folks in the box store do not, unless they are dressed accordingly.
Why cant these be connected directly to the mains without a breaker ?
How would you do that without double tapping the main lugs?
If you can work around the double lugging, your idea is fabulous
@@abrelectric i would pull the meter then go back in the breaker panel loosen the lugs enough to slip the line leads and neutral in with the mains then tighten the lugs.. im sure the inspector wouldn't approve 🙄 lol
Surge protector did its job with a tree on the line after the transformer.
Great it worked. But it took fire too. Nearly burn the house.
Protect my devices, certainly, but....I wonder if I will replace.
You have my attention.
Where was the surge protector installed?
What brand or model?
Bump.. pls provide more details.... Brand, model, location of installation & pro install or DiY??
@@abrelectric hi, it was this model Eaton CHSPT2SURGE SPD Type 2 Chsp Whole Home Surge Protector, Nema 4, Single Phase, 120/240 Volts, Ul 1449
It was installed in the metallic breaker box on the side of the house main breaker.
@williamblair3603 Eaton CHSPT2SURGE SPD Type 2 Chsp Whole Home Surge Protector, Nema 4, Single Phase, 120/240 Volts, Ul 1449 installed by myself es according to the instructions.
Have installed according to us code a complete house with 15 kw pv, 60 kw batteries, 12 years ago and still running fine. The line with grd was for a little house down below that was used by the worker. I presume, the intensity of current was still flowing to the surge
If you get one, is your neighbor more protected than they were before, especially if you're off of the same pole transformer? 😆 Thinking about it, the grid is all interconnected...
Wouldn't that be cool - a neighborhood surge protector?
Alas, I don't think it will work that way :)
@@abrelectric Can you explain why you don't think it works that way? H1/H2 on my feed is the exact same as H1/H2 of my neighbor. (Assuming we are on the same transformer.)
The only difference here is that lightning will find the shortest path to ground. (Lowest resistance to ground.) Whether that's you or your neighbor is random chance.
@fitybux4664 the randomness is my concern
@@fitybux4664 Lightning (electricity) does not find the shortest path to ground. It takes all paths to ground, proportionally to the inverse of the resistance. All wires have some resistance, connections introduce more resistance (that's why the ground wire to your ground rods must be one continuous wire). So if lightning hits the overhead wire in the middle of your neighbor and you, and both your electrical systems have similar resistance, you will get pretty much 1/2 of the energy. Your surge suppressor will hopefully absorb your half and if that makes it a lower resistance connection to ground you might get a little of your neighbor's too but I don't think much. The resistance of your lines from the grid are high enough at that level to keep it pretty even. Yes, I am one of the dreaded electrical engineers of which the author speaks.
@@JamesAllen-tj5nu I'm thinking there is a timing issue here, too. A surge traveling through the neighborhood hits your house and your neighbor's house. At your house it's clamped, but not at your neighbor's house at that same moment - by the time any effect (if any) from your surge protector travels back out the mains to your neighbor, the surge has already traveled through his house and done its damage. Right or wrong?
There is a surge protector in the market, commercial grade and super handy in size, etc. BAD WOLF. I installed it and is very impressive. For less than $300 it protects even from lighting and EMP since it goes for more than 200k instead of 140k. I was hoping you would check it out. My neighbor installed it and I was so impressed that I did so as well, and I moved the old one I had (Square D 24k) tot he subpanel and the BAD WOLF in the main panel. And, is made in the USA by disabled veterans! They also have one for your car, for DC and to protect electronics from EMP.
Thank you for the recommendation! I will definitely look at it
@@abrelectric I love how is half the size of the others and is so highly rated that it would seldom be at risk to explode or burn if a massive surge hits it. More so, it will survive and not be sacrificed so it should last longer.
I'm shopping right now. Bad Wolf looks interesting. Haven't pulled the trigger yet, but leaning that direction.
eaton ultra here.
Ditek has 5 year warranty btw
After watching this video I think the Eaton BRNSURGE that I bought isn't going to do anything for me with it's 18 kA rating.
If you don't live in area with a lot lightning or power surges, it could be just right.
However, if you're living in Florida or North Texas, you might want something stronger.
@@abrelectric Thanks for the reply! I'm in Los Angeles and I have an older Murray JA110AF panel. I figured that I would use the BRNSURGE with surge protected receptacles on the other end until I can upgrade my panel. We typically don't see lightning here in Los Angeles. I was doing this more so for peace of mind since I purchased new appliances after I bought the house.
@@cobrakb I lived in Ventura just North of you for quite a while. You're right, you don't get very much lightning activity at all
Why do you have that watermark covering nearly a quarter of the screen throughout the whole video? I can’t see most of what you’re trying to show us.
Yeah but I've lived in my house for over 40 years and never have I had a Surge.
They are next to useless. If you have something to protect, end of use protection is the best, these things will not protect your electronics in your house. I recommend "the brick wall" a end of use device at each device that you want to protect.
I might add I have been a electrical contractor for 40 years, I have installed $3k surge suppressors on commercial buildings, they did nothing when they were needed! It is a scam. They survived a lightening strike by taking themselves out of the crt, but we lost the electronics. Always use end of use devices on expensive equipment!
Have a Square D HEPD80 I've been meaning to install for like a year or two already... Put it off for so long because the Main Panel is Full and transplanting/consolidating/upgrading/converting Breakers (plus relocating/splicing wires) is going to be a huge pain/hassle.
While apparently not ideal... The "better then nothing" idea has me thinking the Sub-Panel (that is attached just 4-6 inches from the Main) might be "good enough" until I make some room in (and/or upgrade) the Main.
Heck if/when that time comes I suppose it'll be far easier to just add another SPD to the Main and "Layer" the protection (along with all the other various plug in UPS/Surge Protection further downstream already
Enjoy your videos but that HUGE Logo of yours is annoying as heck. Reduce it by 75% and you are good.😊
Appreciate it! I'll pass it on to the video guru
Consider reducing the logo as it detracts from you and your presentation. Thanks.
too much rambling
Skip 2 minutes 25 seconds of blahs...
👍 TP MOV … you got me thinking. I wonder how Eaton or SQD provides MOV’s with surge counter, so I am guessing if there is a surge counter then they are using TP MOV 🤔
I'm not even sure what that means.
😀
FYI
Thecspecvin the Siemens fs140 was only tested with the cable st 6 inches Siemens tech support told me when I asked. He explained that if any longer cable to the panel to shorten cable as much as possible. He slso said to twist the wires from the fs140 uniformly as muvh as possible before connecting to panel if I recall. I forgot exactly what he said butbif I recall, twisting the wires if using longer than 6 inches helped reduce the difference in the spec. I had the data somewhere after talking yltoma seasoned electrical engineer which showed me the Siemens spec was significantly worse in the specs if cable 36ninches versus 6 inches. Of course the Siemens manual doesn't discuss this but I sm positive via double checking with Siemens that the spec is for a 6vinch cable length only