It is pretty cool to show us how to fix a worn cable because in some regions of the world people who repairs bikes are fooling people pretending that the rear derraileur is dammaged and that it must be changed, where only the cable is worn out. Thanks to you guys
Guys, I'm sure this vid would been so supportive for any fist timers on internal routed bikes, remember my first time I tried to feed the inner into the frame without a guide, 20min fishing in the frame later I finally retrieved it....lesson learnt! Good work GMBN 😎👊🏼
Thank you sooo much gmbn staff! I watched all videos of gcn since a year and all of gmbn since you're existing and I never saw and didnt even had an idea how to replace inners&outers if they're internally routed, so many thanks to y'all :)
I used the method explained here to change a single internally routed cable the full length of the bike. Once I removed the cable ties it was incredibly easy and watching this video probably cut a 2 hour job down to 2 minutes, unbelievable.
You don't actually need the piece of plastic tubing if you follow a certain order of operations. First pull out the inner cable out of the rear section of outer cable, leaving the outer cable in as a guide. Then change the front section of outer cable, using the old inner cable (still connected to the shifter) as a guide. With the new front outer cable in place you can replace the inner cable. Thread the new inner cable through the old rear section of outer cable (which we left in the bike in the beginning). Pull out the old rear section of outer cable. Install the new rear section of outer cable using the (new) inner cable as a guide.
It's worth noting that cable stretch is a common misconception. The cable doesn't actually stretch, it's the cable housing that compresses, therefore extruding the cable through it. This is what gives you the problems associated with "cable stretch". Awesome method with the internal routing, Neil. Wonderful video. -Alex
Great video! Is there a reason to leave a part of the cable exposed without an outer? Even within the frame... It seems to me that a protected cable is better even within the frame
+jd b06 on your shifter lever, right where the cable goes in, you usually have a rotary adjuster that you can either screw in (lower tension) or out (higher) in discrete ticks. make sure this is in a middle position when installing a new cable!
Very clear and easy to understand! Should really replace the gear cable on my bike.... and tires... and all of the bearings.... pedals, and pretty much every moving part there is on my bike.. Saving up for a new bike so thats not gonna happen ;D Keep up the great work!
+Mr.BadassProductions Hey Mr Badass, Your bike need a bit of TLC? I,m sure watching our maintenance videos will prolong the life of your bike? Cheers Marc
+Global Mountain Bike Network not really worth it ;) had it since I was 13(19 at the moment), so its too small, weighs like a downhill bike(even though its a hardtail...). Thanks for the reply!
@@DennisJTapio absolutely same, but i am 15 now... Looking forward to buying a lightweight frame at least and build it slowly on my own instead of buying it ready though...
Neil makes this look easy, I'm almost crying trying to battle with poking cable through my frame that doesn't seem to be so smooth! If only I had a transparent frame I could see what the f**k it's all getting caught on!
I did this on my canyon nerve and my shifting is AMAZING. It’s so easy to shift and shifts quickly! I have SLX shifters and a Deore XT rear mech. I didn’t change the front mech cables as they were fine. Next upgrade is a dropper!
Would you attach link to a place where we can purchase that flexible tubing? If not would you post diameter inner and outer and what it's made of and where potentially can buy it please?
you guys have some awesome stuff BUT often you put up some good links to other topics and I can't click them on my tablet or phone and sometimes they are hard to find.... could you add them in the description box to make it easier??? cheers guys
+Pienimusta honestly I have a merida X0 edition and I don't have to use any hacks shown in this video...just put the cable in there,push and it's going by it's self where it should...I think the frame has a kind of guideing for the cables inside...
Your videos are great. Thank you. This channel is equally good to GCN (road bikes). I got a question not about the break, It's about the suunto watch you have in this video. What do you think about it? do you recommend it? Why? Thank You,
When replacing the outer cable: if you don't have any thin tubing to push over the old inner cable, try connecting the new outer and old outer cables together - use a short length of inner cable to line them up, and wrap round with a couple of layers of sellotape to join them. Then you can push the new cable whilst pulling on the old one, to get the new outer through the frame. Just don't pull too hard. Also, don't do what I did and try to push the new outer over the old inner, that ended in disaster and I spent 2 hours poking electrical wire through my frame to guide the new cable in.
Thank for the vid. I've had a new rear derailleur cable (outer and inner) on my self probably for half a year and finally got around to change it. I just wish I had done it sooner, sooooou much better with the new cable.
Nice vid! I just installed a new XT shifter w cable but kept the SLX derailleur. was working perfect but now it's noisy and off on almost every other cog? I have a 1x11 mtb and bike is only 7 mos old. help!
Hi chaps great videos as usual. Just wondering if you guys are sponsored by Canyon bikes? Because dam they are nice!! Keep up the good work lads loving the channel!!!
Hi Neil, Thanks for the video(s)! They're really helpful! Since it cannot find the plastic tubing anywhere here in Italy/Europe (online), can you tell me the outer and inner dimensions of it, so that I can try to buy some "normal" tubing? Thanks in advance
Thanks Neil, Great video and very useful info on internal routing. I noticed, in the video you have your Canyon held in the work stand by the Reverb post. A thing that Rock Shox tell you not to do. I know that they recommend holding the bike in a work stand by the outer shaft of the post, but I had my internal hose to the reverb shortened and i can't shift the post far enough out of the seat tube to allow me to do this. Your bike seems to be pretty secure in the stand and I would prefer to use this method myself if you would recommend it. I noticed that some kind of pad is being used between the bike and the stand. What is this? Hope you can help. Thanks
+Sean Wilton I have always put my bike in the stand this way and never had any problems. Most bike stands have a tough rubber part inside the clamp that wont damage your seatpost. Neil
But are there some clear indications that a cable is worn, apart of obvious examples like the cable being rusty or frayed? Because poor shifting can possibly be due to something other than worn gear cables. For example I have recently replaced a chain going from Shimano to SRAM (on a Shimano drivetrain) and I feel that shifting has slightly deteriorated and I don't think my gear cables are the issue. So do I have to eliminate all the other possibilities of poor shifting before saying "yep, these are cables" or is there some other signs?
In the cable housing barrel adjuster for Grip change MTB DO NOT overtighten as in all the way out or you will get a kink in your grip adjuster cable housing that may break off. Wind all the way in (barrell adjuster) then count the quarter turns to full out then back the adjuster in 1/3. If your cable ends become frayed then with them firmly afixed to either the front or rear derailluer or brakes you can use a regular pliers to grip the ends of the cables HARD then twist the ends of the cables so that they become wound which tightens the wire spool cabling crimp ends help tidy up the cable job. Any work requiring maintannance OR replacement of the front grip shifter may require removal of the cables from that section of the bike cabling system and then reassembly.
I have similar Strive (same year) and I failed while guiding white tube through down tube. It's all just fine because there's no problem to guide it through this tube using cut-off at the top, but... how should cable go inside of it? I've found some additional black thick cable inside of tube (plus two regular: one for rear brake and one for Reverb) - is it something I should use? Canyon have zero response on it. +Global Mountain Bike Network ?
great video, thanks, though they always seem so easy, hoping its an experience thing as I'm finding it pretty hard to get the gears shifting smoothly, anything else I should look out for?
#ASKGMBN, is it applicable to apply grease and lubricate the inner cable so that it moves well within the outer cable? Also please make a video on repairing a bike on your own...
how do you know when your cables are wearing out and need replacing. im new to cycling and i dont know how a worn out cable should feel can you tell me for both gear and break cables
For brake cables, it probably doesn't matter. As long as it's braking and the cable isn't damaged, it's fine. For shifting cables, you replace when you start noticing difficulty with correctly indexing the shifting. And as stated above, you want to change both the inner and outer cable, because both receive some wear.
Where can i get some of that plastic tubing from? ive had a nightmare in the past trying to route internally routed cables and that stuff looks ideal. Many thanks
Can someone explain when the cables need replacing? I do have problems shifting up the cogs, down the cogs worked well. But how to know that it's the problem due to the cables? Thanks.
i got my gear cable changed at a bike shop and they did not put an end cap on is that ok or should i get one and put it on also what do i have to do when my gear cables stretch after a few rides i dont know what to do
I did the old DIY fishing and the cable by putting a knot on the end and feed it through and then catch it on the other end with a tweezer or a needle nose player
can you not just put an outer cable all the way through the frame when you do this so its easier for next time? or is that only possible with some frames?
I noticed you didn't put any lube on your cable, you obviously don't need it? I'm really interested in buying a canyon bike when they start selling in Australia, the components are top notch, but how is the frame??
I guess I'm needing some kind of lube when my new outer cable seems to be catching before it comes out of the first exit near the bottom of the frame? I can feel it's getting caught just before it comes out the first hole (it's going to run the whole way through and frame). I got the old one out OK and the new outer is the same type (Jagwire - Lex SL). Otherwise it seems like I'm going to ruin the new outer before it's even got fitted. So any lube in particular or is there a better way of making a clearing within the frame where it's being threaded?
If you have teflon coated cables, you should not use grease in your bowdens. If you have stainless cables, it's okay and often recommended to use lubricant, unless your bowden is factory lubricated, in which case there's no point adding any more grease. If you have regular galvanized cables, you really should have bought the stainless ones cause they're better and not really much more expensive.
You can use the core from an outer cable. Just use a sharp knife to strip the plastic off and separate it from the small inner plastic hose. What you end up with looks identical to what Neil was using.
Spent about 500 miles on it and so far so good. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA Pros:1. Very light2. Solid quality build3. Fast delivery: It arrived 5 weeks earlier than expected.4. Easy assemblyJust a few cons but nothing major:1. Cheap tin tubes and had flat on first day... but not a big deal. I replaced the tubes.2. Seat is a bit uncomfortable but that's pretty much the same situation with most bikes.3. Seat post is a bit long/high for a smaller size 48 bike - had to saw 2 inch off to fit properly. The lowest setting is too high. The post locking system does not seem to hold well (perhaps because I saw 2 inch off).4. wheels are not tubeless compatible (from what I can tell)
can someone give me some advise ive pulled the gear and rear brake cables completely out of the frame is there anyway to get them back in i was think putting some cardboard in the little hole so it acts as a ramp and hope the cable goes up it. is there any easier way of doing this the bike is a mondraker summum pro 2014 please help haha
That really depends on your bike. On some bikes, it's easily possible, on some it's possible with some tinkering, on some it just isn't. In a nutshell, it depends on whether you are able to make a new route for the cable. Usually it's easy to make the cable go down along with the braking cable, but once you reach the bottom bracket you need to start making a different route and that part can be really tricky on some bikes.
#AskGMBN Hi guys thanks very much for all of your brillant videos. I have watch this video a few time of Neil changeing a internal routing cable. the set up on my Focus raven is much the same as this, but my problem is (apart from bricking it about doing it myself) i don't know the outer diameter of the threading hole on the frame. so i've ordered 3mm x 2mm do you think this will do the job as i'm only going to get one chance after cutting the cable as it has all frayed at the end. I would much appreciate an advice you can give me. Also while i watch you videos i go on my trainer, would you consider doing a training video while out on a trail. keep up the great work. :)
hi guys I've been planning to change my shifter and I am having a problem in choosing one of a trigger shifter that is combination with brake levers or the separate ones...what do u prefer guyz? hope you'll reply
+Global Mountain Bike Network guys does all shimano shifters like deore,altus,saint are compatible with different derailleurs? are they all SIS compatible?
It is pretty cool to show us how to fix a worn cable because in some regions of the world people who repairs bikes are fooling people pretending that the rear derraileur is dammaged and that it must be changed, where only the cable is worn out. Thanks to you guys
Guys, I'm sure this vid would been so supportive for any fist timers on internal routed bikes, remember my first time I tried to feed the inner into the frame without a guide, 20min fishing in the frame later I finally retrieved it....lesson learnt! Good work GMBN 😎👊🏼
Thank you sooo much gmbn staff!
I watched all videos of gcn since a year and all of gmbn since you're existing and I never saw and didnt even had an idea how to replace inners&outers if they're internally routed, so many thanks to y'all :)
I used the method explained here to change a single internally routed cable the full length of the bike. Once I removed the cable ties it was incredibly easy and watching this video probably cut a 2 hour job down to 2 minutes, unbelievable.
You don't actually need the piece of plastic tubing if you follow a certain order of operations.
First pull out the inner cable out of the rear section of outer cable, leaving the outer cable in as a guide.
Then change the front section of outer cable, using the old inner cable (still connected to the shifter) as a guide.
With the new front outer cable in place you can replace the inner cable.
Thread the new inner cable through the old rear section of outer cable (which we left in the bike in the beginning).
Pull out the old rear section of outer cable.
Install the new rear section of outer cable using the (new) inner cable as a guide.
It's worth noting that cable stretch is a common misconception. The cable doesn't actually stretch, it's the cable housing that compresses, therefore extruding the cable through it. This is what gives you the problems associated with "cable stretch".
Awesome method with the internal routing, Neil. Wonderful video.
-Alex
You explained internal routing for shifter the best!! Thank you so much. It worked like a charm.
Great video! Is there a reason to leave a part of the cable exposed without an outer? Even within the frame... It seems to me that a protected cable is better even within the frame
One thing worth noting is to put the tension adjuster on the shifter lever in a neutral position so you can adjust both ways after changing the cable!
+Mo how do you do this?
thanks
+jd b06 on your shifter lever, right where the cable goes in, you usually have a rotary adjuster that you can either screw in (lower tension) or out (higher) in discrete ticks. make sure this is in a middle position when installing a new cable!
Good idea
@@akinadom you meant barrel adjusters?
@@nzo_6543 exactly
Very clear and easy to understand! Should really replace the gear cable on my bike.... and tires... and all of the bearings.... pedals, and pretty much every moving part there is on my bike.. Saving up for a new bike so thats not gonna happen ;D Keep up the great work!
+Mr.BadassProductions Hey Mr Badass, Your bike need a bit of TLC? I,m sure watching our maintenance videos will prolong the life of your bike? Cheers Marc
+Global Mountain Bike Network not really worth it ;) had it since I was 13(19 at the moment), so its too small, weighs like a downhill bike(even though its a hardtail...). Thanks for the reply!
@@DennisJTapio absolutely same, but i am 15 now...
Looking forward to buying a lightweight frame at least and build it slowly on my own instead of buying it ready though...
Did mine today... Spot on first time thanks to you're guidance 👍👍😊😊
Thats some sweet electric blue ^^
Neil makes this look easy, I'm almost crying trying to battle with poking cable through my frame that doesn't seem to be so smooth! If only I had a transparent frame I could see what the f**k it's all getting caught on!
Did you get it through?
Guess who just got a new subscriber? You did GMBN. It's you.
Thanks bro, it really helps me ❤️
this is also a good time to shorten up the cables if there too long, looks cleaner as well, and you can change out for colors.
What kind /type of "little tube" you use and where can be purchased please Neil. Cheers.
I did this on my canyon nerve and my shifting is AMAZING. It’s so easy to shift and shifts quickly!
I have SLX shifters and a Deore XT rear mech. I didn’t change the front mech cables as they were fine.
Next upgrade is a dropper!
SLOWLY this guys start to pissing me off how brutal bikes they have... :D
Helped me out, my cable was old and worn, didn't know what to do. Thanks
Would you attach link to a place where we can purchase that flexible tubing? If not would you post diameter inner and outer and what it's made of and where potentially can buy it please?
Peter Wobacz at the 0:58 mark - ruclips.net/video/-ojOx7vd_yU/видео.html
What an awesome video for a confused Strive owner. Just need to go find some tubing.
you guys have some awesome stuff BUT often you put up some good links to other topics and I can't click them on my tablet or phone and sometimes they are hard to find.... could you add them in the description box to make it easier???
cheers guys
Neil Donohue do you run your own bike shop and parts shop?
Nice guide. Seems like huge work compared to outer cable
+Pienimusta honestly I have a merida X0 edition and I don't have to use any hacks shown in this video...just put the cable in there,push and it's going by it's self where it should...I think the frame has a kind of guideing for the cables inside...
I watched my local bike shop guys change my back gearset's cable and it was done like in 10 seconds :D cables just flew all over and it was done.
i know....it's a tough metod shown in the video
Absolutely brilliant this guy is fantastic, thank you.
Should you lube the inner cable before install?
Your videos are great. Thank you. This channel is equally good to GCN (road bikes). I got a question not about the break, It's about the suunto watch you have in this video. What do you think about it? do you recommend it? Why? Thank You,
what type of tubing did you use to thread over the inner cable before taking it out?
When replacing the outer cable: if you don't have any thin tubing to push over the old inner cable, try connecting the new outer and old outer cables together - use a short length of inner cable to line them up, and wrap round with a couple of layers of sellotape to join them. Then you can push the new cable whilst pulling on the old one, to get the new outer through the frame. Just don't pull too hard. Also, don't do what I did and try to push the new outer over the old inner, that ended in disaster and I spent 2 hours poking electrical wire through my frame to guide the new cable in.
Thank for the vid. I've had a new rear derailleur cable (outer and inner) on my self probably for half a year and finally got around to change it. I just wish I had done it sooner, sooooou much better with the new cable.
Nice vid! I just installed a new XT shifter w cable but kept the SLX derailleur. was working perfect but now it's noisy and off on almost every other cog? I have a 1x11 mtb and bike is only 7 mos old. help!
Excellent video. I was really worried about not being able to thread the cables back through the frame
do you have a video on how to replace and install internal cabling for breaks? thank you.
Hi chaps great videos as usual. Just wondering if you guys are sponsored by Canyon bikes? Because dam they are nice!! Keep up the good work lads loving the channel!!!
before fitting the inner cables to the outer is it good idea to lube in the outer at this point ?
what gear cable did you use for the new cable going in? Shimano polymer?
Bro your bike is just 🔥🔥🔥
Neil saved my day
Great video. Helped me replace my cable quick and easy!
Is it recommended to wash our bike prior to changing gear cables?
Hi Neil,
Thanks for the video(s)! They're really helpful!
Since it cannot find the plastic tubing anywhere here in Italy/Europe (online), can you tell me the outer and inner dimensions of it, so that I can try to buy some "normal" tubing?
Thanks in advance
Do you pre stretch the cable before mounting?
Thanks Neil,
Great video and very useful info on internal routing.
I noticed, in the video you have your Canyon held in the work stand by the Reverb post. A thing that Rock Shox tell you not to do. I know that they recommend holding the bike in a work stand by the outer shaft of the post, but I had my internal hose to the reverb shortened and i can't shift the post far enough out of the seat tube to allow me to do this.
Your bike seems to be pretty secure in the stand and I would prefer to use this method myself if you would recommend it.
I noticed that some kind of pad is being used between the bike and the stand. What is this? Hope you can help.
Thanks
+Sean Wilton I have always put my bike in the stand this way and never had any problems. Most bike stands have a tough rubber part inside the clamp that wont damage your seatpost. Neil
But are there some clear indications that a cable is worn, apart of obvious examples like the cable being rusty or frayed? Because poor shifting can possibly be due to something other than worn gear cables. For example I have recently replaced a chain going from Shimano to SRAM (on a Shimano drivetrain) and I feel that shifting has slightly deteriorated and I don't think my gear cables are the issue. So do I have to eliminate all the other possibilities of poor shifting before saying "yep, these are cables" or is there some other signs?
what kind of store sells that kind of clear tubing you used? How thick it is? (millimeters)
Can anyone provide a name or link for this “little tubing” used in the video?
In the cable housing barrel adjuster for Grip change MTB DO NOT overtighten as in all the way out or you will get a kink in your grip adjuster cable housing that may break off. Wind all the way in (barrell adjuster) then count the quarter turns to full out then back the adjuster in 1/3. If your cable ends become frayed then with them firmly afixed to either the front or rear derailluer or brakes you can use a regular pliers to grip the ends of the cables HARD then twist the ends of the cables so that they become wound which tightens the wire spool cabling crimp ends help tidy up the cable job.
Any work requiring maintannance OR replacement of the front grip shifter may require removal of the cables from that section of the bike cabling system and then reassembly.
I'm gonna go and replace my cables now!
Where can I buy that guide cable from please?
Question: how do I install a cable on a sram 10 speed shifter?
I have similar Strive (same year) and I failed while guiding white tube through down tube. It's all just fine because there's no problem to guide it through this tube using cut-off at the top, but... how should cable go inside of it? I've found some additional black thick cable inside of tube (plus two regular: one for rear brake and one for Reverb) - is it something I should use? Canyon have zero response on it. +Global Mountain Bike Network ?
Half way threw changing my cable now, I'm stuck at the point of getting the cable out of the old gear, to thread the new one threw
The gears on my bicycle are just keep rotating it does not change do u know why is like that :) Thank you.
Would you recommend putting a lubricant on the cable?
I would say this depends on whether or not the new cabling you're using is already prelubricated
What do you suggest to do if we need to change the cable trail side? How can I route it through the frame?
thanks neil.. this was helpful!!
great video, thanks, though they always seem so easy, hoping its an experience thing as I'm finding it pretty hard to get the gears shifting smoothly, anything else I should look out for?
Köszönjük a videót hasznos volt!
#ASKGMBN, is it applicable to apply grease and lubricate the inner cable so that it moves well within the outer cable? Also please make a video on repairing a bike on your own...
Does it make sence to do that for a dropper post as well and if yes how often
Just what i needed. thanks
How do I get my cable routed if I already took out everything?
how do you know when your cables are wearing out and need replacing. im new to cycling and i dont know how a worn out cable should feel can you tell me for both gear and break cables
For brake cables, it probably doesn't matter. As long as it's braking and the cable isn't damaged, it's fine.
For shifting cables, you replace when you start noticing difficulty with correctly indexing the shifting.
And as stated above, you want to change both the inner and outer cable, because both receive some wear.
Great explaining.
When you say, "put a bit more tension", at the end, how are you actually doing that?
Turn adjuster barrel counter clockwise
Where can i get some of that plastic tubing from? ive had a nightmare in the past trying to route internally routed cables and that stuff looks ideal. Many thanks
I would be interested too
I'd like to know too
SHIMANO Cable Liner Y80098100
Thanks
+J273 b and q or other diy shops sell it by the metre
Got the wire seems stuck in sleeving, can't go beyond 5/8.
Tried lubricated it with wd40 still won't loose.
Any advice?
Should've watched this video before removing old cables from the frame.. Now I have some fishing to do !
Can someone explain when the cables need replacing? I do have problems shifting up the cogs, down the cogs worked well. But how to know that it's the problem due to the cables? Thanks.
i got my gear cable changed at a bike shop and they did not put an end cap on is that ok or should i get one and put it on also what do i have to do when my gear cables stretch after a few rides i dont know what to do
Elizabeth McDonald complain to the bike shop before anything else - so many are ran by cowboys
I did the old DIY fishing and the cable by putting a knot on the end and feed it through and then catch it on the other end with a tweezer or a needle nose player
Can I use GCN's pro tip for installing the gear cables?
Great detailed instructions thanks guys
Ty
Where do you get that clear tubing. What is it used for?
It’s called jagwire 🤙🏼
Why not just replace it with one piece cable housing and push over original inner cable then once it's through pull a new inner?
WTF?! Can anyone explain where did the transparent tube at 6:52 come from, because it was taken out at 6:15 ?
can you not just put an outer cable all the way through the frame when you do this so its easier for next time? or is that only possible with some frames?
I noticed you didn't put any lube on your cable, you obviously don't need it? I'm really interested in buying a canyon bike when they start selling in Australia, the components are top notch, but how is the frame??
+MrRicho32 You don't really need lube when the outer and inner cable are new. All top quality stuff. Neil
I guess I'm needing some kind of lube when my new outer cable seems to be catching before it comes out of the first exit near the bottom of the frame? I can feel it's getting caught just before it comes out the first hole (it's going to run the whole way through and frame). I got the old one out OK and the new outer is the same type (Jagwire - Lex SL). Otherwise it seems like I'm going to ruin the new outer before it's even got fitted. So any lube in particular or is there a better way of making a clearing within the frame where it's being threaded?
Thank you for this.
Nice video but not everyone's bike is a 1x. And I noticed no grease was used. Idk I noticed other people recommended using grease
If you have teflon coated cables, you should not use grease in your bowdens.
If you have stainless cables, it's okay and often recommended to use lubricant, unless your bowden is factory lubricated, in which case there's no point adding any more grease.
If you have regular galvanized cables, you really should have bought the stainless ones cause they're better and not really much more expensive.
LimitedGarry sweet thanks for the info! Very much appreciated
Where did you get that white tubing from?
Thx in Advance
You can use the core from an outer cable. Just use a sharp knife to strip the plastic off and separate it from the small inner plastic hose. What you end up with looks identical to what Neil was using.
Spent about 500 miles on it and so far so good. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA Pros:1. Very light2. Solid quality build3. Fast delivery: It arrived 5 weeks earlier than expected.4. Easy assemblyJust a few cons but nothing major:1. Cheap tin tubes and had flat on first day... but not a big deal. I replaced the tubes.2. Seat is a bit uncomfortable but that's pretty much the same situation with most bikes.3. Seat post is a bit long/high for a smaller size 48 bike - had to saw 2 inch off to fit properly. The lowest setting is too high. The post locking system does not seem to hold well (perhaps because I saw 2 inch off).4. wheels are not tubeless compatible (from what I can tell)
Nice bike
Great help man.
Thank u
The top cover of my gear shifter won't come off. So it seems impossible to insert a new cable.
Is there a video for the front Derailier?
It's pretty much the exact procedure, except with your front shifter cable instead of rear
So is GMBN now sponsored by Canyon?
what if or how do i remove internal cable housing that is inside of frame? literally my housing was pushed inside of frame
nice bike neil how many do you have now
can someone give me some advise ive pulled the gear and rear brake cables completely out of the frame is there anyway to get them back in i was think putting some cardboard in the little hole so it acts as a ramp and hope the cable goes up it. is there any easier way of doing this the bike is a mondraker summum pro 2014 please help haha
What is around your seat post?
This helps me a lot! Thx!
If you have split inner housing can you convert it to run full length?
That really depends on your bike. On some bikes, it's easily possible, on some it's possible with some tinkering, on some it just isn't.
In a nutshell, it depends on whether you are able to make a new route for the cable. Usually it's easy to make the cable go down along with the braking cable, but once you reach the bottom bracket you need to start making a different route and that part can be really tricky on some bikes.
Thanks. It turned my bike was fully internally routed. So it was a breeze to do.
#AskGMBN
Hi guys thanks very much for all of your brillant videos. I have watch this video a few time of Neil changeing a internal routing cable. the set up on my Focus raven is much the same as this, but my problem is (apart from bricking it about doing it myself) i don't know the outer diameter of the threading hole on the frame. so i've ordered 3mm x 2mm do you think this will do the job as i'm only going to get one chance after cutting the cable as it has all frayed at the end. I would much appreciate an advice you can give me. Also while i watch you videos i go on my trainer, would you consider doing a training video while out on a trail. keep up the great work. :)
My gear cable isn't connected, where do o need to put ir
Where do you get that clear tubing to assist in internal routing?
see question and answer above
Very helpful. Thanks.
hi guys I've been planning to change my shifter and I am having a problem in choosing one of a trigger shifter that is combination with brake levers or the separate ones...what do u prefer guyz? hope you'll reply
+Mark Guillermo We always prefer separates.
+Global Mountain Bike Network guys does all shimano shifters like deore,altus,saint are compatible with different derailleurs? are they all SIS compatible?
Global Mountain Bike Network hi I'm trying to change my front gear cables is it the same concept as the rear gear cables
Absolutely. There's no difference between the cabling other than cable length
How much does the bike weigh?