I just bought a Craiglist 1996 Wellcraft 160 CCF w/ 48 hp Evinrude which I'm restoring. I decided I should rebuild the water pump, and after watching your vid, it doesn't seem to be too difficult. Your common-sense approach and explanation makes it easy for most of us laypersons to understand what it will take and gives us the confidence to move forward! Thanks so much!
I just took it out today and the water pump worked great but we had some fuel problems. We just viewed your vid about using gravity to assist the primer bulb, which I'll be implementing tomorrow, with a new fuel line. Also, I'll be adding a clear in-line fuel filter between the bulb and fuel pump. Plz let me know about your t-shirt effort as t-shirts are standard dress here in Austin, Tx. Thanks again!
I'm glad you put these videos up! I have almost completely rebuilt a 25 seahorse that has set for 9 year from watching these videos alone. It was in really bad shape when I started but she's running like a 2019 now
Stu..thanks for your systematic, clear manners of teaching by step by step teaching. Very helpful and informative. I feel empowered by your knowkedge! Bravo..!
wanted to say thanks for a thorough lesson on changing out a water pump kit. idid it and tested it this afternoon and all was well and give you much credit. couldnt have done it without your help thankyou
Water pump kits is probably the best video of all to make on different models as there are so many out there including me that need to see it done before giving it a go. Just about anyone can change a spark plug or fuel line or lower unit oil but all the different set ups (specifically the shift linkage/ or the hidden bolts under the trim tab or turning the driveshaft clockwise etc, what the best gasket sealers etc etc etc) you are providing the confidence to quite a few do it yourselfers . Thanks again Stu!!!
Fake Name Great Story. Last boat I put in new reed valves (a credit to watching this channel) only to have the lower part of the drive shaft snap later at the pinion gear. Made the decision to get another used boat . So yes I love watching Stu's channel . Some things I will back away from like the lower unit . All the gears and bearings still intimidate me which is ok because regardless I now have a better understanding of how forward and reverse is delivered.
Btw, Stu actually has a video on when it may be time to give up on an old outboard which I had to do. I had a 1987 nissan 70hp which was a great motor for a lot of years but once the driveshaft broke and I looked everywhere trying to find one, I made that decision. Parts of any significance were already hard to find for that motor,,,eg. you could get an impeller, but you couldn't get a total water pump kit,,,, etc, etc....
Greetings from South Carolina, U.S.A. I'm an old timer and started turning wrenches a long time ago. Back then metrics were not commonly used here in the states. I know people say the metric system is easier (not for me) so a 1/4 inch by 20 T.P.I.tap is something I understand. I enjoy your videos and the easy fun way you present them ... Best of luck to you.
I find the US measurements are better for construction materials like lumber, drywall, screws, etc. but metric is easier for mechanical things. From Ontario, 🇨🇦.
Just finished replacing the water pump on my 1973 50hp Johnson. Was certain it was going to explode when I got it all back together but it didn't! Worked great
Stu,awhile back I messaged you concerning my Johnson outboard motor.your videos on that Johnson 30 you were working on helped greatly...and It took me while to fix as there was a lot wrong with it. I am happy to report that it runs like top. Thanks!!!
Thanks mate. The instructions that came with this kit were pretty good but I did notice that the bit about putting that o-ring I missed was the final sentence of a long paragraph so they do need to be read carefully. Something I never do!
Just wanted to say thank you, I changed my water pump on my 25hp Evenrude (got the same kit from Marine Engine . com) and I could never get any water out the "tell Tail", after going through the procedure 3 time I checked your old videos and you mentioned priming and none priming pumps. I took off the water ears and put the motor in a barrel of water and everything worked great. Thanks Again
Wow perfect timing! Since the last time we had talked, i just started changing the water pump on my 93 johnson 30 hp. Ive been piecing together videos from all other sources online. This means ive been kind of "wingin it." Im so glad you did this video. Thank you Stu!
One question though. Do i really need to have the drive shaft spacer? I noticed when i took of the lower unit that the drive shaft spacer had warped and melted from the over heating. I had to cut it off in order to fix the water pump.
Very good question. I don't really know the answer (others may) but most outboards don't have it so I'm not really sure that it does. If yours was running with the spacer so badly damaged then it can't be critical.
After pump rebuild, your suggestion in another video, to test operation, don’t use earmuffs! My 25 horse was not self prime you need full immersion of the shaft.Mine would not pee out the hole otherwise.
Hello Great videos. I followed your procedure. And I, like you, had to flip the impeller. I wondered which way it went in. I watched your video closely and put it in upside down as you did. Then towards the end when you were adding the keyway, I saw the it was corrected. Just thought I'd point that out. Great videos
Excellent video and presentation. Thanks. One general comment about some shift linkages to emphasize. When I tried removing my lower unit, it wouldn't come out until I completely removed the shift linkage bolt. This was on a Johnson 15hp. I assumed the shift rod was simply "clamped", but it is also mechanical held in place by the bolt which engages a tapered portion of the shift rod which isn't visible until disassembled.
Make sure when you put the lower unit back on that the shift rod on the lower unit is sccrew all the way into the lower unit before you connect it back the the rod on the motor. If you don’t your linkage will be off and it won’t shift into forward gear. Learned this the hard way
Hey Stu Thanks for this video. I have been subscribed since about 6 months before Renko come along. This video really helped me out today as I couldn't workout where the gear selector was joined. Cheers.
Thank you for this, and all the other, very educational videos. They have helped me a lot. I found in my outboard shop manual for Johnson/Evinrude that the torque on the six bolts on the pump house should be 60 - 80 lb/in or 6.8 - 9.5 Nm. I have an Evinrude Elan 1996 35 hp, 3 cyl. two stroke outboard. I have learned during my time as an technical engineer that it is not necessary to use packing cement in addition to a gasket. The shop manual tells me to use OMC Gasket Sealing Compound, and I can´t see why. Maybe it´s for keeping the gaskets in place while assembling. When I dismantled the waterpump system, there was no sign of that compound. I hope my english language is ok.
Just to let you know. I found myself unsubscribed from your channel. I did not do it. I enjoy all of your videos and learn a lot. Thank you for all your hard work.
I like the how to on the thread pitch. I've been looking at getting a tap and dia set. Finished my fuel tank video. Fun project and amazing the fuel gauge works
Nice video again gearcase turned out nice from where you started. That salt water sure makes a mess of things. I just did the same water pump at the marine dealership I work at in Michigan, USA a few weeks ago, and the torque Johnson and Evinrude list for those water pump bolts in the service manual is 60 to 84 inch pounds. I do not know what that converts to in Newton Meters. That's a very common torque spec for Johnson and Evinrude outboards when I comes to the 1/4 inch X 20 T.P.I fasteners. I have never used Adhesive M Evinrude calls for on their water pumps either usually I will use bellows adhesive which works good. The main thing is to secure the O-ring in the proper location during assembly. The reason I will use Mercury bellows adhesive is it's handy because half of the stuff I do is sterndrive and I have lots of MerCruisers kicking around. Thanks again for the great video.
Thought I was on the wrong video for a few minutes in the beginning there :-). Dropped my phone in the water (second time it's happened now lol) just after the video where you cleaned up that lower unit. Good to be back and catching up on your videos.
The sealant Jonson / BRP are referring to is 3M's 847 compound! Well at least nowadays it's what BRP recommends . It's a quick drying "sticky right away" sealant, very effective to hold rubber seals and o-rings to any surfaces but can quickly become a mess if you apply a slight bit too much of it lol. Sealant must resist to vibrations/water/petrol residues/big and fast temperature changes and must not disintegrate. That's why I suggest you install the housing "cup" twisting in the impeller first, then slide the housing on top afterwards, since twisting while applying pressure on the housing seal vs lower plate might overspill the sealant onto the plate which will create a friction later on between the impeller and the spilled sealant on the plate, premature failure. Just saying
It's interesting to hear you say that as I was thinking of getting rid of them. My worry is that people find them first and think they all have the same audio / editing quality.
Very helpful! Thank you. I'm about to change out an impeller on a 78 johnson 35hp for the first time. This is the first outboard I have worked on beyond changing spark plugs. I opened the box of replacement parts and was sure the impeller was the wrong size! Thanks for showing how it all works together. I am a little concerned about getting the gasket sealant right. Hoping a quick look around the auto parts store will sort me out. Thanks again!
Hi Stu. Firstly, just want to say on behalf of all amateur and wannabe boat mechanics. THANKS. You vids are informative but above all, practical. I cleaned and tuned my carbs after your video. Now. Will this video apply to my 70hp Johnston. I think it's an early 80s model. Again. Much thanks.
Painting bottom end put dab of grease at top of each bolt thread will prevent paint from sticking or thread a bolt in a few turns to prevent paint from getting in hole.
Looks like I get to make a video on changing the impeller on my Yamaha 4hp 4 stroke tomorrow. No pee at all so took it apart. Looked like it exploded inside the housing. Rubber chunks everywhere even down in the water pickup vent holes. Inside of the housing was chewed up so replacing both.
Yes did that. Found bits down in the vent holes and ran a small wire up the tube to the motor. Then blew everything out. Test ran it and used today fishing. Ran great
I watched your video before and started to rebuild mine and wound up with a spare O ring. I'll be danged if I did the same thing you did, then I had to take it all apart and put it under the stainless steel impeller cup. LOL The instructions did not emphasize that step. Really great on the rest however. You did it better in your video. LOL
Hopefully you still see this from an older video, and I apologize for the long comment: I have the same motor on my boat as in this video. I launched my boat, started it up with no issue, and let it idle to warm up while I scurried around the boat getting a few other things ready. In my movement, I buried the prop in the sand without realizing it. As I advanced the throttle forward, I heard a "thunk" and the motor died. Realizing what happened, I cleared the prop from the sand and turned the key... nothing happened. Didn't try to crank or anything, might as well have unhooked it from the battery. The ignition is the only thing I have connected to that battery, and everything else was still working fine. Brought my boat home and looked it over. All fuses I could fine appear to be in good shape. All wiring as far as I can tell is still connected (there are a few wires that were obviously cut and I don't think they were in use since I've had the boat). The throttle still moves and the lever on the motor reacts accordingly. When the boat is in neutral, the propeller will still rotate. When it's in gear, the prop still catches when I try to rotate it. I opened the casing on the throttle and as far as I can tell everything looks fine in there, too. A buddy of mine thought maybe something bent in the lower from the jolt, and it won't get out of gear, resulting in it not cranking. I know these motors are relatively simple, but I'm not desperate enough yet to test my luck taking off the lower myself. So with that, I'm out of ideas and looking for help. Really don't want to have to take it in to spend a lot of money, and I'm worried it will cost more than the boat is worth. Thanks in advance. Maybe this will be the kick in the pants I need to get out on the kayak more.
It could be a few things. There is a neutral safety switch that will prevent it from cranking in gear, there could be an issue there. This is a very old video and therefore probably very badly filmed, but it might help with your problem. ruclips.net/video/e1h-blqDm4U/видео.html
Always interesting and I like how you make do with what you have , I realize that sometimes you have to use a factory made tool but sometimes improvising can work just as well, no fn around with you , do what it takes to get the job done right : )
great vid. I think the stumpy end of the impeller key needs to point in the direction of the impeller travel. To achieve that the impeller is removed - flipped and reinserted (while rotating anticlockwise). I'm going off memory, and could be wrong. I really don't think it'll make much diff, and to fix it would be a huge pain in the _ss now that it is assembled :)
From memory it is pretty hard to get it in the wrong way as the impeller has a wedge shaped hole for it to go in. If the wedge is around the wrong way the it wont fit under the impeller. It's a good point though that I should have mentioned. I'll take a look next time.
Going to replace my johnson 35 hp water pump the older working finw but I've new kit and dont know when last tim older owner replace it so gonna replace it to make sure
GOT A QUESTION. With the painting of the leg and having to tap the bolt holes due to paint overspray. Why dont you just insert some bolts flush to the holes. Even if you have to make your own flush bolts. Just an idea. great vid.
Dear what is the purpose of the keeper underneath the linkage gearbox joint. I lost the nylon tapered keeper can I replace it with a small O ring please so the linkage nut will not slip off? Thanks in advance, very informative video
Thanks for the great video and helpful instructions. Unfortunately, I have run into a problem with the reinsertion of the drive shaft into the gearbox. It feels as if there is resistance from some kind of liquid in. The gear shaft only goes in about 1/3 of the way. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks
I ordered an impeller for a 35 early 80's and it was totally wrong. Listing said 35 and higher. It looks like this with a D shaft and not a key and pump had 6 holes. Looks like they made a change in later production.
Hello, Thank You for all the videos !! My question is: Do you have to remove the carburetors to access the shift linkage to change the impeller on a 1990 Johnson GT150 J150STLESB? Thank You!!
So I have just received my first boat. It is a 1976 Manatee with a 70HP Johnson. I was told the fuel pump was bad but haven't had a chance to go through it all. I knew it was a project when I got it. Should I go ahead and redo the water pump and impeller as a precaution? It has been sitting for about 18 months.
You have helped so much befor . Had a obsolete gasket made for my 1998 johnson 9.9 four stroke outboard. Put it all back together. Still gets hot . Do you know where the timming marks line up ??? All information i can find doesn't tell me where crack mark lines up with ... put it where the info i could get said .. still hot.. put it back where it was when I took apart still hot ... everything new gaskets, thermostat, water pump impeller, and all electrics as well. Don't know what to do??
Great video! Very helpful. At 7:35 you say to rotate the impeller CCW. How important is that? I always thought that would self correct, whichever way you put it in. But after toasting a new impeller (on a Johnson 30) that I most likely rotated the wrong way I'm not so sure anymore.
Thanks for the video! When I just recently replaced my water pump on my 81 johnson 35hp I have been struggling with the shift rod and getting it to get the boat to go into forward. I have dropped the lower unit multiple times and put it back together sometimes it will go into forward on the first time and then no longer after that. Reverse is working great! Any advice? Thanks!
I have a 1998 4 stroke 9.9 johnson outboard. It squares water out the small hose but doesn't have any water coming out the exhaust of the prop . Tested thermostat in a pot of water it opens ... what do you think is wrong ?????
I have a Johnson 35hp, to remove the lower unit, the shift rod extending up through the the exhaust housing, is there a disconnection that needs to be made under the carburetor or can the unit just slide off by only removing all the bolts as seen on this video?
Ok, literally laughed with the conversion from metric to imperial. Defeated at the .25 inch......I am the exact same just going from imperial to metric. :)
4 years later and this video is still a GEM! Used it multiple times. Thanks so much for sharing
I just bought a Craiglist 1996 Wellcraft 160 CCF w/ 48 hp Evinrude which I'm restoring. I decided I should rebuild the water pump, and after watching your vid, it doesn't seem to be too difficult.
Your common-sense approach and explanation makes it easy for most of us laypersons to understand what it will take and gives us the confidence to move forward! Thanks so much!
You're welcome mate, good luck with the job. :)
I just took it out today and the water pump worked great but we had some fuel problems. We just viewed your vid about using gravity to assist the primer bulb, which I'll be implementing tomorrow, with a new fuel line. Also, I'll be adding a clear in-line fuel filter between the bulb and fuel pump. Plz let me know about your t-shirt effort as t-shirts are standard dress here in Austin, Tx. Thanks again!
I'm glad you put these videos up! I have almost completely rebuilt a 25 seahorse that has set for 9 year from watching these videos alone. It was in really bad shape when I started but she's running like a 2019 now
Stu..thanks for your systematic, clear manners of teaching by step by step teaching. Very helpful and informative. I feel empowered by your knowkedge! Bravo..!
Great to hear!
wanted to say thanks for a thorough lesson on changing out a water pump kit. idid it and tested it this afternoon and all was well and give you much credit. couldnt have done it without your help thankyou
Water pump kits is probably the best video of all to make on different models as there are so many out there including me that need to see it done before giving it a go. Just about anyone can change a spark plug or fuel line or lower unit oil but all the different set ups (specifically the shift linkage/ or the hidden bolts under the trim tab or turning the driveshaft clockwise etc, what the best gasket sealers etc etc etc) you are providing the confidence to quite a few do it yourselfers .
Thanks again Stu!!!
Fake Name Great Story. Last boat I put in new reed valves (a credit to watching this channel) only to have the lower part of the drive shaft snap later at the pinion gear. Made the decision to get another used boat . So yes I love watching Stu's channel . Some things I will back away from like the lower unit . All the gears and bearings still intimidate me which is ok because regardless I now have a better understanding of how forward and reverse is delivered.
Btw, Stu actually has a video on when it may be time to give up on an old outboard which I had to do. I had a 1987 nissan 70hp which was a great motor for a lot of years but once the driveshaft broke and I looked everywhere trying to find one, I made that decision. Parts of any significance were already hard to find for that motor,,,eg. you could get an impeller, but you couldn't get a total water pump kit,,,, etc, etc....
Thanks mate, glad the vids are helping you. :)
You r the only one that show me witch way the parts impeller goes on and turns. Thank you.
Rewatching the older videos and it's so impressive to see how you and the content has grown to what for me are must watch uploads
Thanks mate. :)
Greetings from South Carolina, U.S.A. I'm an old timer and started turning wrenches a long time ago. Back then metrics were not commonly used here in the states. I know people say the metric system is easier (not for me) so a 1/4 inch by 20 T.P.I.tap is something I understand.
I enjoy your videos and the easy fun way you present them ... Best of luck to you.
It's definitely a case of what you are used to.
swimmin' wit da fishes what part of SC? I'm in the same state
Hey Mark C, I'm in Beaufort County just off of Hilton Head.
I find the US measurements are better for construction materials like lumber, drywall, screws, etc. but metric is easier for mechanical things. From Ontario, 🇨🇦.
Just finished replacing the water pump on my 1973 50hp Johnson. Was certain it was going to explode when I got it all back together but it didn't! Worked great
Nice work Peter! :)
Stu,awhile back I messaged you concerning my Johnson outboard motor.your videos on that Johnson 30 you were working on helped greatly...and It took me while to fix as there was a lot wrong with it. I am happy to report that it runs like top. Thanks!!!
great video. It is always good to see the actual repair versus the written instruction.
Thanks mate. The instructions that came with this kit were pretty good but I did notice that the bit about putting that o-ring I missed was the final sentence of a long paragraph so they do need to be read carefully. Something I never do!
I'm super glad you mentioned you were getting back to boat building. I was wondering about that project. :)
Just wanted to say thank you, I changed my water pump on my 25hp Evenrude (got the same kit from Marine Engine . com) and I could never get any water out the "tell Tail", after going through the procedure 3 time I checked your old videos and you mentioned priming and none priming pumps. I took off the water ears and put the motor in a barrel of water and everything worked great. Thanks Again
You're welcome. :)
@@DangarMarine water ears??
Thanks I replaced mine after watching your video, very well done!
Wow perfect timing! Since the last time we had talked, i just started changing the water pump on my 93 johnson 30 hp. Ive been piecing together videos from all other sources online. This means ive been kind of "wingin it." Im so glad you did this video. Thank you Stu!
One question though. Do i really need to have the drive shaft spacer? I noticed when i took of the lower unit that the drive shaft spacer had warped and melted from the over heating. I had to cut it off in order to fix the water pump.
Very good question. I don't really know the answer (others may) but most outboards don't have it so I'm not really sure that it does. If yours was running with the spacer so badly damaged then it can't be critical.
Bin the spacer it is to stop water travelling up the shaft. Just put grease or anti seize on the shaft spline
"It's showing its age, this poor old outboard..... but then again, aren't we all" -I felt that
Clear and concise instructions. Outstanding. Thanks for posting
After pump rebuild, your suggestion in another video, to test operation, don’t use earmuffs! My 25 horse was not self prime you need full immersion of the shaft.Mine would not pee out the hole otherwise.
Thanks for this, rebuilding a water pump on an old Johnson 25, same kit and shaft setup.
Thanks mate. Another very clear, concise and humorous video
Awesomely done. Methodical, detailed...and love the close up views. You're a pro, mate!
I have a 20 horse Johnson 1989 your videos have come in very helpful I just got my parts today
Glad the vids have helped. Good luck with the job Marcus!
Great work, your style of presentation and easy structure makes your vids enjoyable and pleasurable to watch.
Stu, another great vid, really finding the series useful, much better watching someone doing rather than reading, cheers mate 👍
Hello Great videos. I followed your procedure. And I, like you, had to flip the impeller. I wondered which way it went in. I watched your video closely and put it in upside down as you did. Then towards the end when you were adding the keyway, I saw the it was corrected. Just thought I'd point that out. Great videos
Thanks for the video. This was a huge help doing my 35 Johnson
Excellent video and presentation. Thanks. One general comment about some shift linkages to emphasize. When I tried removing my lower unit, it wouldn't come out until I completely removed the shift linkage bolt. This was on a Johnson 15hp. I assumed the shift rod was simply "clamped", but it is also mechanical held in place by the bolt which engages a tapered portion of the shift rod which isn't visible until disassembled.
Make sure when you put the lower unit back on that the shift rod on the lower unit is sccrew all the way into the lower unit before you connect it back the the rod on the motor. If you don’t your linkage will be off and it won’t shift into forward gear. Learned this the hard way
Hope the new owner is enjoying this quality rebuild :)
Hey Stu
Thanks for this video. I have been subscribed since about 6 months before Renko come along. This video really helped me out today as I couldn't workout where the gear selector was joined. Cheers.
Thank you for this, and all the other, very educational videos. They have helped me a lot. I found in my outboard shop manual for Johnson/Evinrude that the torque on the six bolts on the pump house should be 60 - 80 lb/in or 6.8 - 9.5 Nm. I have an Evinrude Elan 1996 35 hp, 3 cyl. two stroke outboard. I have learned during my time as an technical engineer that it is not necessary to use packing cement in addition to a gasket. The shop manual tells me to use OMC Gasket Sealing Compound, and I can´t see why. Maybe it´s for keeping the gaskets in place while assembling. When I dismantled the waterpump system, there was no sign of that compound. I hope my english language is ok.
Great video mate.
Planning to do this same procedure on my Evinrude 15hp.
-Jack
Good luck with the job Jack. :)
Jack, I've got some spare 15 hp Johnson stuff if you need it. I don't need it anymore so I'd be happy to let you have it, free of charge.
Just to let you know. I found myself unsubscribed from your channel. I did not do it. I enjoy all of your videos and learn a lot. Thank you for all your hard work.
Thank Bob. :)
I like the how to on the thread pitch. I've been looking at getting a tap and dia set. Finished my fuel tank video. Fun project and amazing the fuel gauge works
They are handy little kits, that’s for sure.
Nice video again gearcase turned out nice from where you started. That salt water sure makes a mess of things. I just did the same water pump at the marine dealership I work at in Michigan, USA a few weeks ago, and the torque Johnson and Evinrude list for those water pump bolts in the service manual is 60 to 84 inch pounds. I do not know what that converts to in Newton Meters. That's a very common torque spec for Johnson and Evinrude outboards when I comes to the 1/4 inch X 20 T.P.I fasteners. I have never used Adhesive M Evinrude calls for on their water pumps either usually I will use bellows adhesive which works good. The main thing is to secure the O-ring in the proper location during assembly. The reason I will use Mercury bellows adhesive is it's handy because half of the stuff I do is sterndrive and I have lots of MerCruisers kicking around. Thanks again for the great video.
Thanks James, appreciate you passing on the torque specs. :)
As always Stu, another awesome video! This motor is coming together and looking great!
Thanks Jack!
Just ordered my t shirt. Yaaaay. Thanks Stu for the instruction.
Cool! Be sure to send me a photo of you wearing it. :)
Hi from Canada, thank you so much for making this video. it sure helped me out
Glad it helped!
well it almost worked. when I tried to put it back i think the splines aren't lining up. mine is 86 30hp
Thank you so much man! worked like a charm and this video made it easy.
Another well made video Stu keep up the good work. I like the old Landrover in the background
Thanks mate. The motor went back into that Land Rover last week after being off at the engineer's for a rebuild. Looking forward to firing it up!
Thought I was on the wrong video for a few minutes in the beginning there :-).
Dropped my phone in the water (second time it's happened now lol) just after the video where you cleaned up that lower unit. Good to be back and catching up on your videos.
I should have done it like a black and white flashback. ;) Sorry to hear about your phone!
Nice video Stu!!!
Bro step by step thank you your vids are helping alot
Great concise instruction. Thanks!
NICE !! VERY CLEAN VIDEO TANKS . MINE 88 HP
Mate, what could have just appeared in the sub box? Dangar!
Your a Legend mate! Another very helpful video.
The sealant Jonson / BRP are referring to is 3M's 847 compound! Well at least nowadays it's what BRP recommends . It's a quick drying "sticky right away" sealant, very effective to hold rubber seals and o-rings to any surfaces but can quickly become a mess if you apply a slight bit too much of it lol. Sealant must resist to vibrations/water/petrol residues/big and fast temperature changes and must not disintegrate. That's why I suggest you install the housing "cup" twisting in the impeller first, then slide the housing on top afterwards, since twisting while applying pressure on the housing seal vs lower plate might overspill the sealant onto the plate which will create a friction later on between the impeller and the spilled sealant on the plate, premature failure. Just saying
Great vid Stu..
Hope you leave the old vids up as well. I believe that is why / when I found your channel.
It's interesting to hear you say that as I was thinking of getting rid of them. My worry is that people find them first and think they all have the same audio / editing quality.
Dangar Marine Maybe make note of the age and quality in the descriptions? Lot of good info and uniqueness to them.
Another Great Video! Thanks for sharing.
Very helpful! Thank you. I'm about to change out an impeller on a 78 johnson 35hp for the first time. This is the first outboard I have worked on beyond changing spark plugs. I opened the box of replacement parts and was sure the impeller was the wrong size! Thanks for showing how it all works together. I am a little concerned about getting the gasket sealant right. Hoping a quick look around the auto parts store will sort me out. Thanks again!
You're welcome Neal, auto parts stores will have everything you need.
in advance Thank you your videos have helped me greatly.
Hi Stu. Firstly, just want to say on behalf of all amateur and wannabe boat mechanics. THANKS.
You vids are informative but above all, practical. I cleaned and tuned my carbs after your video.
Now. Will this video apply to my 70hp Johnston. I think it's an early 80s model.
Again. Much thanks.
Thanks champion that’s sooo helpful
You’re awesome mate..cheers for this
Thanks for the video Mate!
I'm watching the series on this 30hp. I don't even remember seeing the water pump when he removed the gear box.
Painting bottom end put dab of grease at top of each bolt thread will prevent paint from sticking or thread a bolt in a few turns to prevent paint from getting in hole.
Looks like I get to make a video on changing the impeller on my Yamaha 4hp 4 stroke tomorrow. No pee at all so took it apart. Looked like it exploded inside the housing. Rubber chunks everywhere even down in the water pickup vent holes. Inside of the housing was chewed up so replacing both.
Good luck with it Tim! Be careful to make sure none of the bits of impeller are stuck in the cooling system blocking it up.
Yes did that. Found bits down in the vent holes and ran a small wire up the tube to the motor. Then blew everything out. Test ran it and used today fishing. Ran great
Helped me a great deal. Thanks!
You're welcome, glad the vid helped. :)
Great video as usual thanks for the informative video
Well done mate like always.
Be Safe great Day.
Thanks Manny!
I watched your video before and started to rebuild mine and wound up with a spare O ring. I'll be danged if I did the same thing you did, then I had to take it all apart and put it under the stainless steel impeller cup. LOL The instructions did not emphasize that step. Really great on the rest however. You did it better in your video. LOL
Hopefully you still see this from an older video, and I apologize for the long comment:
I have the same motor on my boat as in this video.
I launched my boat, started it up with no issue, and let it idle to warm up while I scurried around the boat getting a few other things ready. In my movement, I buried the prop in the sand without realizing it. As I advanced the throttle forward, I heard a "thunk" and the motor died. Realizing what happened, I cleared the prop from the sand and turned the key... nothing happened. Didn't try to crank or anything, might as well have unhooked it from the battery. The ignition is the only thing I have connected to that battery, and everything else was still working fine.
Brought my boat home and looked it over. All fuses I could fine appear to be in good shape. All wiring as far as I can tell is still connected (there are a few wires that were obviously cut and I don't think they were in use since I've had the boat). The throttle still moves and the lever on the motor reacts accordingly. When the boat is in neutral, the propeller will still rotate. When it's in gear, the prop still catches when I try to rotate it.
I opened the casing on the throttle and as far as I can tell everything looks fine in there, too.
A buddy of mine thought maybe something bent in the lower from the jolt, and it won't get out of gear, resulting in it not cranking. I know these motors are relatively simple, but I'm not desperate enough yet to test my luck taking off the lower myself.
So with that, I'm out of ideas and looking for help. Really don't want to have to take it in to spend a lot of money, and I'm worried it will cost more than the boat is worth.
Thanks in advance. Maybe this will be the kick in the pants I need to get out on the kayak more.
It could be a few things. There is a neutral safety switch that will prevent it from cranking in gear, there could be an issue there. This is a very old video and therefore probably very badly filmed, but it might help with your problem. ruclips.net/video/e1h-blqDm4U/видео.html
Thank you so much!!!
You're welcome!
I replaced the water pump in my 25 hp 2005 Johnson in 2009. In 2012, I sold the boat and motor for $2000. Now I own a canoe.
Ok...
Always interesting and I like how you make do with what you have , I realize that sometimes you have to use a factory made tool but sometimes improvising can work just as well, no fn around with you , do what it takes to get the job done right : )
Thanks Adrien!
Arn would call him a wimp and not sign off his apprenticeship if Stu did every job 'by the book'.
I'm seeing Eddie in your next video and he looks well.
That was filmed before his accident, but he's okay now.
great vid. I think the stumpy end of the impeller key needs to point in the direction of the impeller travel. To achieve that the impeller is removed - flipped and reinserted (while rotating anticlockwise). I'm going off memory, and could be wrong. I really don't think it'll make much diff, and to fix it would be a huge pain in the _ss now that it is assembled :)
From memory it is pretty hard to get it in the wrong way as the impeller has a wedge shaped hole for it to go in. If the wedge is around the wrong way the it wont fit under the impeller. It's a good point though that I should have mentioned. I'll take a look next time.
Splendid how to video Stu; Once in a while I like to ask how Eddie is doing. I'm hopping well. Thanks fer another swell video.
Eddie is in the wars at the moment too. Dave has had to spend almost $1000 on vet bills after he got a bad oyster cut on his paw. :(
Great vid, thx!
😀great presentation
I've put many of those in our old 25 evinrude.
Going to replace my johnson 35 hp water pump the older working finw but I've new kit and dont know when last tim older owner replace it so gonna replace it to make sure
Thanks for your great videos!
I have a 1989 Johnson 40hp in decent shape that needs lower end seals and impeller.
Do you cover that one?
Thanks
Hey could you do a video on replacing water deflectors?
GOT A QUESTION.
With the painting of the leg and having to tap the bolt holes due to paint overspray. Why dont you just insert some bolts flush to the holes. Even if you have to make your own flush bolts.
Just an idea.
great vid.
Dear what is the purpose of the keeper underneath the linkage gearbox joint. I lost the nylon tapered keeper can I replace it with a small O ring please so the linkage nut will not slip off? Thanks in advance, very informative video
Thanks for the great video and helpful instructions. Unfortunately, I have run into a problem with the reinsertion of the drive shaft into the gearbox. It feels as if there is resistance from some kind of liquid in. The gear shaft only goes in about 1/3 of the way. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks
Watching videos on electric boats..fn awesome
I ordered an impeller for a 35 early 80's and it was totally wrong. Listing said 35 and higher. It looks like this with a D shaft and not a key and pump had 6 holes. Looks like they made a change in later production.
Hello, Thank You for all the videos !! My question is: Do you have to remove the carburetors to access the shift linkage to change the impeller on a 1990 Johnson GT150 J150STLESB? Thank You!!
So I have just received my first boat. It is a 1976 Manatee with a 70HP Johnson. I was told the fuel pump was bad but haven't had a chance to go through it all. I knew it was a project when I got it. Should I go ahead and redo the water pump and impeller as a precaution? It has been sitting for about 18 months.
You have helped so much befor . Had a obsolete gasket made for my 1998 johnson 9.9 four stroke outboard. Put it all back together. Still gets hot . Do you know where the timming marks line up ??? All information i can find doesn't tell me where crack mark lines up with ... put it where the info i could get said .. still hot.. put it back where it was when I took apart still hot ... everything new gaskets, thermostat, water pump impeller, and all electrics as well. Don't know what to do??
Great video! Very helpful. At 7:35 you say to rotate the impeller CCW. How important is that? I always thought that would self correct, whichever way you put it in. But after toasting a new impeller (on a Johnson 30) that I most likely rotated the wrong way I'm not so sure anymore.
Will grease damage the impeller material? is it ok to put some on to help it spin when it's dry on startup?
No, a thin wipe of grease is good for startup lubrication.
Thanks for the video! When I just recently replaced my water pump on my 81 johnson 35hp I have been struggling with the shift rod and getting it to get the boat to go into forward. I have dropped the lower unit multiple times and put it back together sometimes it will go into forward on the first time and then no longer after that. Reverse is working great! Any advice? Thanks!
I have a 1998 4 stroke 9.9 johnson outboard. It squares water out the small hose but doesn't have any water coming out the exhaust of the prop . Tested thermostat in a pot of water it opens ... what do you think is wrong ?????
Do the evenrudes not have that drive shaft spacer? Displayed at the end with the 2 smaller O rings?
I have a 1993 evinrude 140cxetf counter rotation which way does the water pump impeller should be installed ?
Haha my subtitles said hey there dingus in the beginning lol
Should it be in forward, neutral or reverse before I drop it.
is there any seal between the leg and lower gearbox housing? Cheers Garry
Enjoyed the video Stu! Very informative and easy to understand. How often should you change your water pump? Thanks
I would change it about every 100 hours of running.
I have a Johnson 35hp, to remove the lower unit, the shift rod extending up through the the exhaust housing, is there a disconnection that needs to be made under the carburetor or can the unit just slide off by only removing all the bolts as seen on this video?
Thank it help me out,
Ok, literally laughed with the conversion from metric to imperial. Defeated at the .25 inch......I am the exact same just going from imperial to metric. :)
Thank you for the great tutorial video yet again , just wondering if you made tutorial video on how to adjust gear shift on Johnson outboard motor .
Not really, only one on adjusting the shift rod length ruclips.net/video/Ufy6W9EI1cg/видео.html