Johnson 30 Health Check
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- Опубликовано: 7 окт 2024
- In this video I give the 1994 Johnson 30HP outboard a quite health check. By removing the lower unit I am able to inspect the water pump impeller remove the drive shaft oil seal.
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Unbelievable luck for me, I have one of these outboards. thanks for the video, professionally done and easy to follow.
These old OMC 30s/35s are excellent engines. I exclusively use them and have for 14 years now as a commercial fisherman on my skiffs. Mainly 1978-1988 models, they’ll go forever if taken care of.
Glad you are rebuilding that engine. They are worth saving. Thanks from Houston, Texas
It will be interesting to see how it goes in the end. Can't see anything seriously wrong with it yet.
20 + years old, looks like an 'old faithful' from the island. Crank seals? On those engines , by the time you checked them you may as well just replace them ( much like pump impellors.)
Found your channel about a month ago. Just bought a project boat and you are helping me out tremendously. Your content is the best I've seen. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Daren, glad the vids have been helping you with your project. :)
I’m working on a similar Johnson so great vid and I’m happy to see the drive shaft came out just as easy
Another quality video. It never ceases to amaze me how much havoc saltwater plays on anything metal. I had a catamaran at the beach for two days and all of the stays had begun to turn black. Hope you can get back to your boat build soon. Thanks!!!
Thanks Greg. You're not wrong about saltwater, it's certainly very harsh on everything.
Smart tip Stu to not run the engine without knowing the history on the impeller. I once had to chase down a shed impeller blade on a mercruiser stern drive. I thought I’d never find that missing piece and was darn lucky I did. It was causing the engine to run hot due to it blocking water flow. That little Johnson is bulletproof and popular. I have a 48 evinrude that is similar to your motor. Easy to work on and run forever with a little TLC.
Thanks Jack. It certainly isn't much fun trying to track them down. Glad you had a win with your fragment. I think this Johnson will come good it in the end, it will be interesting to see. :)
Love your videos! Great content and you explain everything fully. Always waiting for the next one👍
Thanks Kory! :)
I have to
Thanks mate, getting myself an old 25hp Suzuki end of this month, this was useful as now I know what to do first!
You're welcome mate, good luck with the new Suzuki!
Can't believe the coincidence! I'm DIY'ing the carb, water pump, head gasket, fuel pump on my 1991 Johnson 30HP (all kits bought from MarineEngine.com btw) and can use all the help I can get. Great videos!
Thanks mate, glad the videos will help you. :)
its always good to take care of your johnson!!!!
richard cranium , richard cranium 😂
Caring is sharing...
Another great video! Can't wait to see the old Johnson up and running.
Thanks John. :)
Great series, i picked up a 89 johnson 25 has been very handy! Thanks stu
Thanks Stu. Very educational.
You're welcome. :)
Jason W
Mate your vids are awesome. Great content, explanations and variety.
Cheers from NZ.
Thanks Jason! :)
Now were talkin!! Back to what made u famous.......Evinrude Johnson!!!! I miss the ole 150 vids but will watch this entire series. Thanks Stu!
Thanks Jim. I'm not sure about famous though! ;)
Excellent Video Stu. Thanks Bud !!!.
Thanks Angelo. :)
Thanks for the intro on this Stu. I always wonder at what point something is worth putting money into as your heart can often rule your head!!
That's very true John, it's a tough call to make sometimes but I'm not feeling this one is going to be too expensive.
What a great idea bagging the parts! I have just put parts for mowers car engine etc in old icecream container or buckets. You can write on ziplock bags. so there good for more than keeping Bait in. :-)
All things I've learnt the hard way. ;)
Lawn Care Evolution. Sometimes if I have to leave a project for a week or so, I will jot down what needs to be done next on a scrap of paper. Also any special assembly sequence or orientation of parts. You can forger a lot in a week!
Very useful video. Thank you.
Super informative, thanks so much....
A boat restoration video on my wish list DANGAR MARINE :)
Yes, I'm thinking a boat restoration might be a good project after the boat build is finished.
Sounds great!
if im gonna buy a used outboard, what brand should i look for?
Honda and Yamaha is what im used too....
If you are used to Yamaha and Honda make those brands your first choice. You know what they normally look and sound like so if the engine you look at has an issue you are more likely to notice it. Plus you know what is normal operation is terms of starting a cold engine procedure so if the seller has to do something you know is not normal for those engines, you know to be on your guard. Not to say other brands should not be looked at, but you cut the number of variables down if you go with a brand you are familiar with .
Thanks Ron Powell :)
Thats true, but quality wise, Yamaha and Honda is a good choice right?
Both Yamaha and Honda make great outboards, and Ron's advice about being better positioned to spot a good one is excellent.
If you do rebuild the bottom end and then find a "show stopper" up top, you can clean and repaint the lower and sell it as re-manufactured !
Sounds like a good plan. :)
Hi Stu, as a bit of a suggestion I was thinking this would make a really good restoration project, like a clean down and repaint too. That should take up a few videos I would think and would be very interesting into the bargain. I did that with that old Yammy I bought and it came up a treat. It also only has around the 100psi comps but she sure can fly for a 50.
Keep up the good work mate, love your work.
I am still coming down, it's just a matter of when, but I'll let you know.
Cheers, Bruce
That Jap Motor project sounds like a good idea. I am sure that many of us out there would like to tart up their old motors, and boats, and only need a lead and a small amount of encouragement from you, in a video or three. Re low hanging fruit, as a suggestion, what about asking some of the viewers what mischief we would like to see you get up to next. I have a couple of ideas but they are a bit long winded for this page. .
Great video!
- jack
Great vid, Dengar! Love seeing you bring these old beasts back to life! And seeing your boat in the background reminded me of building my boat in my apartment. Lol!
Thanks mate. This boat building project has me dreaming of a huge barn with plenty of room to walk around! ;)
Dang that poor little engine that could at one time. The lower unit shafts straightness would be of concern. Love your videos.
Yes, it is certainly in need of some serious TLC.
I have a 97 evinrude that is very hard to start but once i get it to start I can shut off and start it really easily. If I let it sit for over 20 mins or longer it’s really hard to restart again. Compression is 120 on each cylinder, new fuel pump, clean carburetor, new spark plugs. It’s pull start. Engine runs great once I get it started.
I would check the reed valves behind the carburettor.
Dangar Marine checked them today and they look good.
Dangar Marine the whole time I am pulling to start it no smoke but once I start seeing a little smoke it only takes two or three more pulls to start. The pull rope feels smother too.
hi mate, looking forward to this fix..! Marine engine .com doesn't ship to NZ so its a little difficult getting new parts or kits if they are here they seem to want to double the price
Great stuff Also could you do a running amount spent on this project because there are a lot of us that own Johnson outboards thanks again
Thanks David. I'll definitely mention how much all the parts set me back in the next video.
everyone should give their johnson a good health check
Not in public though...
Hi Dangar, do you still do video's? Could you please do a video on the normal step by step starting/functioning of a motor ie. turn key, then # should happen , then # should and so forth and so forth pls. I bought a boat with a Johnson 90Hp V4 Seahorse which is not going and would really like to give it a go, cheers and thanks for the awesome videos
Enjoyed that cheers
Thanks Norman.
Hi I am wondering where you get the parts for the repairs you are doing on the Johnrude motors you have had. I have a 25 hp with rope start and the pawl/dog has broken the only place i have found the part is on a U.S. site, don't want to find out how much the import taxes are the hard way. Keep up the good work with the vids.
I've been buying all the bits from MarineEngine.com in the US.
Ross, if you are in Australia, and the part is a personal import and under $1000, you dont pay import or sales tax.
Thanks Ron that helps
I'd love to get a feel for the cost of the parts you ordered for this section. It's hard for those of us who only fiddle occasionally to gauge if an outboard is worth repairing without some handle on cost of parts. I'm sure you get better prices than most, so if you can, let us know the retail prices.
Hi Benny. I actually pad retail for all these parts so I can give you the prices. The thing to keep in mind is that many of these parts so far are actually service items that need doing periodically anyway.
I have a 1987 johnson 30!
G'day Stu, looking forward to following this rebuild, I have same model Jonno 30, circa 1993 on my tinny. It runs like a well oiled sewing machine, the only problem it's a pull start. I'm hoping to find the running gear to convert it to elec start, if you know of anyone with parts for one of these old clunkers, let me know. Cheers !
Electric start is a worthwhile upgrade, that's for sure. We have a couple of outboard wreckers in the area, you'll probably be able to find the bits you need at one of them.
Were you able to find an airbox? I have a 20hp and mine is missing as well but I can't find the part number.
Awesome Stu, you wouldn’t be south Aussie would you....👀pale ale 🤫
I did used to live there, but now in NSW. Oddly I think Coopers is more popular here than it is in SA. Last time I was there I ordered one at a pub and they were like, "nobody drinks that!"
There should be a Welch plug on top of the Power head just Fwrd of the T-stat , it has the numbers/letters to give you the year model. kodi
Unfortunately not, it only has the serial number on it.
Surprising that it's fixable? Hopefully the rest goes as smoothly
So far so good Tim, it will be interesting to see.
hey stu, you may want to add some more keywords to this video so its searchable to a wider audience. LOTS of people could benefit from this. keep up the great work mate!
My plan down the track is to take some of the footage from this video and combine it with footage of installing it to make a separate (more searchable) "Replacing the impellers on a Johnson 30" video, but yes, I'll put lots on keywords on that one. :)
Awesome... I just fixed up two of these with hidden faults on both. Amongst a lot of other things I ordered an original (used) fuel pump as one og mine was punctured inside due to the main spring had tilted inside and therefor rubbing sideways. Just to inspect the “new” used one I got, I pulled it apart and again I found a tilted main spring in that too :-/
Luckily it had not punctured, so it was fully usable. But all this made me think that it may be considered a fairly common error (maybe because people are not paying enough attention during assembly of the fuelpump).
Another crazy (and lucky) discovery was a misalignment due to the woodruff key being broken. However it was almost 180 degrees out which is why it would actually idle - having two sparks pr. round (what are the odds).
The year of your engine should not be hard to find out. There is a round shiny area (about 3 cm diameter) on (I believe) the starboard side of the engine block with letters/numbers telling everything.
Look here for explanation:
bpi.ebasicpower.com/shop/how-do-i-determine-what-model-year-of-johnson-evinrude-outboard
BTW: These engines seem to be popular here in Denmark. There are still a lot of them (even older ones from the 80’s).
I enjoy your vids. I am curious to see if you go for replacing the lower shifter o-ring underneath the brass bushing and whether the thermostat is seized.
One question:
If opting to test your engine on a still stand in a large body of water (ie. a lake). How much would you think it would affect the max. RPM you would get?
Having the flywheel slip by exactly 180 degrees would be a very tricky problem to track down! Unfortunately this motor only has a serial number of the core plug, not any model information at all. Good question about testing in still water. I'm really not sure but I imagine it would be a fair bit lower going by how much RPM drops as a hull gets dirty with barnacles. Being attached to a fixed structure would be like the extreme extension of that where the hull is too dirty to move at all.
Dangar Marine ok. That is what I would think of the RPMs too. Weird that I have a hard time finding anything about it online. Am I the only one nuts enough to haul my engine stand down in the lake and tie it to a bridge while adjusting the attached engine WOT going nowhere :-)
I am not sure what you mean by “core plug” but some of the last letters in the serial should reveal the year when correlating with the I-N-T-R-O-D-U-C-E-S table.
Not certain but I think the airbox was discontinued, the cowling was used as the airbox.
I'd like to know because I have a j30tecoa with a missing airbox
@@willrupley2253 yeah loads don't have airboxes. Especially older ones, don't worry about it
Thrush washer " narly "? ok In the states....we say "shot-out".. if you're from the Deep South. Just Say'n.
Been watching for a while. Thanks for the Vids..
Thanks Dean.
The 20, 25, 30, and some 35hp Johnsons and Evinrudes of that era are all essentially the same and therefore parts are cheap and readily available. Not terrible motors, but the re-sale value is low- probably because they are so common here in America. I don't think the carb takes an air box- I've never seen one on any that I've worked on.
It's good to know the parts are interchangeable, that will make it easier to find any bits I can't get new.
Do these things have an airbox? I have two of these engines and neither have one!
Do you ever use the soda blaster on surface aluminum corrosion, as seen on that lower unit? I have an Evinrude 70 that I'm cleaning up - it'd be easier to just swap in a cleaner (fresh water) lower unit, but this one is still solid - seals holding, no water in the lube, skeg and anti-cavitation plate all intact. Seems like a thorough cleaning, prime and paint should do the trick. Would different blast media be better for the aluminum?
That's a good question and something I've been thinking about myself if I do choose to paint this one up. I've always found home soda blasting to be a bit mild, so I may look at getting it sand blasted. My big worry is making sure that not of the surfaces that need to remain smooth get pitted at all. I think it will be worth experimenting on this outboard as it isn't the end of the world if it goes wrong, it doesn't owe me any money.
This will be a great series, thanks!
What's the tube that apparently goes over the driveshaft do? I've never seen something like that.
RichE
Hi mate, it's just a spacer, I'm not sure what it's exact purpose is other than to hold some seals by the look of it.
It seals the exhaust gas’s out of the water pump.
i am working on the exact engine in this video. where can i fint the service manual?
Hi, I have a 25hp 2 stroke. It looks similar to this. It is impossible to pull start - way too had to pull. I know it is not just me being weak, the 30hp 2 stroke is way easier. Someone said it has a compression release hole that might be blocked, but I do not know where to look for it. Can you give me some pointers please.
Hi love your videos i have a Yamaha 130hp saltwater sirese i am chasing a workshop manual for but coming up empty handed model number 6 L I X 705114 or 130 BETO can you help
You could try readmanual.com or tradebit.com
Hey Dangar, have you tried balancing a drain pan on top of the middle wooden support?
Unfortunately there isn't quite enough height in the stand to do that, but nice idea.
Generally speaking, those OMC 32CI engines are pretty rugged...This one has surely suffered the effects of poor/no servicing. I'm confident the powerhead would come back to life with a new wiring harness and attention to all details. Unfortunately, that gearcase looks to have suffered from electrolysis damage, I'm sure the housing is fairly pitted as well. I don't think it is worth disassembly and new seals, would look for a used gearcase, or perhaps a decent used gear housing. What were the results of the pressure test? All the new seals in the world are not going to repair a gear housing that has pitted through. And again, I don't recommend using those seal pullers, especially on such delicate/thin aluminum housings. There are two seals in that upper housing. The upper seal that you pulled out keeps water from leaking in, the lower seal that is still in the housing keeps the oil from leaking out. Not that it makes any difference, but someone had previously installed that crazy shift rod connector upside down. Excellent advice on the water pump. You are so right, the last thing you want is pieces of broken impeller being circulated up and into the powerhead! Wish I had a decent used gear housing, would donate it to this worthy cause....
Hi mate. I know exactly what you are saying about that style of seal puller. I've seen one in a Honda service manual that levers from a point in front of the seal and doesn't put any pressure on the thin metal edge. I'd love to get my hands on one. I'll have a look at how bad the pitting is on this gear case. I could always put some sealant on the outside of the seals if the surface doesn't look good. It's probably worth mentioning that there is always a slight difference in the approach I would take to a job compared to a video series. Often I will show the procedure for doing a job knowing the information will help other people more than being appropriate in my particular circumstance. It is a fair point that I should probably mention in the video, "at this point I would probably just find another one" though. ;) I guess the trim tilt on the 150 was an example of that. A lot could have been learnt / shown by trying to fix the old one but it was a bit too far gone.
Will keep my eye open for a decent gear housing for you...Don
Hello from Michigan USA, I have a 1978 20 HP mercury, That needs to be rebuilt, I think I can follow along step by step with you as your Johnson outboard is repaired. THANKS FRIEND [What can I do if a mercury special tool is needed to work on my outboard]
Hi Ronald, I hope these vids help you. I recently just ordered the bearing carrier tool for a Mercury outboard from MarineEngine.com to do the seals on a little 8HP.
Thanks
Stu, is there an airbox on a Johnson 30? My Johnson 25 (J25TESOM) doesn't have one. Just curious.
No, it doesn’t seem so. Mine had mounting hole but people tell me they don’t come with one.
do you consider if it has lived in fresh water or salt. would you save a motor because it lived in fresh water not salt
Around Australia there are very few engines that do fresh water only running. Even our inland lakes are usually salt water - often saltier than the ocean,our rivers are often brackish and silt laden rather than true fresh water. Our fresh water lakes are typically dam impoundments or irrigation dams- and we have very few of those that you can run boats in. Even less soon as the new pollution laws/restrictions come into effect over the next few years( carb two strokes wont be allowed on fresh water lakes ) . So for Australia the question is pretty much not even a consideration.
If I was living in a country that had a lot of fresh water boats and I was in the market for one I'd certainly avoid any salt water options, that's for sure.
thank you guys. i love in Oregon so it is not uncommon to have a boat that has been in both salt and fresh water.
The biggest problem with salt water outboards is internal corrosion of the cooling passages. Get enough of that around the cylinders and it can cause flow restrictions and overheating. Those motors can often be repaired, but it takes some work to dig out the corrosion.
Nice demonstration Stu. Is there something you can soak all that corroded aluminum in to kill whatever that electrolyte is? Then what would you use to cover?
With this type of corrosion I'm more inclined to wire brush it. A light coating of something like fish oil can help where appropriate, but I might even repaint parts of this one.
I have this engine 1996 - whitch mix its correctly 1:50 or 1:100 ?
Thanks Stu. I'd be interested in a discussion re. installing new rings, oversized rings. Also would like to see the condition of the block where the throttle cam plate and ring fits around. I have two of the exact same motors (30 HP and 20HP - rope start, tillers), and the 30 has a wear groove at the plate and ring mounting point.
Very reliable motors. My 30 sat outside for 5 years in northern east coat US with the previous owner. I bought it for parts, but it started easily and has 130, 130 compression. Going to use it to convert the 20 in good nick to a 30. The 30 looks rough and the lower unit is broken (also a long shaft, when I need a short). Plan on swapping the power heads, rather than changing over carb and intake only. The twenty runs smooth and quiet (26 MPH on a 14' V-Hull). Run Video: ruclips.net/video/MLuX6W5xfg4/видео.html
BTW, broke off half of the head cover bolts in both, even after heating and soaking with corrosion cleaners. Going to repaint and apply new decals too.
Installing oversized rings means getting the block machined and buying oversized pistons too. Gets pretty expensive pretty fast. I'll be interested to see what condition the block is in on this one. I'll definitely check for wear under the throttle cam now, thanks for the tip.
Hi Stu, great video , what do you recommend useing to clean around the Outboard engine that has been siting for 12 months
It's be inclined to just give it a wipe with WD40 or something like that.
Crazy how nasty that engine motor is 😢
That 8 hour clock goes around three times in a day? Haha
It does have a mind of its own. ;)
From experience these outboards don’t have an air box. At lest my ‘84 Evinrude 25hp doesn’t and my ‘66 6hp Johnson didn’t.
Interesting. I haven't had a chance to check out a parts diagram yet but you may well be right.
I could understand them not having air boxes in '66, but by '84, you'd think they'd have woken up and smelled the seaweed.
My ‘92 20 hp doesn’t but my ‘92 30 hp does have one. Different carbs but same engine/displacement.
My 90 40 hp does have a air box
My 99 25 Johnson didnt have an airbox eitheir
Great video tutorials. I just bought my first boat. It came with a 1976 Johnson 25 and I'm going to fine tooth comb it. I was wanting to know how much play is normal in the prop turning it stop to stop while it's in gear ? Mine has about 1/4 turn in it. Is that an indication of worn gears ?
That does sound like quite a bit, but if it is consistent rather than only in one spot (ie a missing gear tooth) I wouldn't be too worried if it drives okay.
@@DangarMarine Cool. I'll turn the motor by hand with in in gear to check for that ! Thank you. I just got this thing 2 days ago. First thing I need is a fuel pump after I check compression of course. I paid 1k for the three components with titles for all 3 so I'm expecting to rebuild almost everything
I have the same motor just a year older. Im having problems when i throttle up the motor. Sometimes it will run fine at mid to full throttle for a few seconds and then it will stop sucking up water. At that point I'll slow down and it will start spitting water again.
But for the most part it will idle just fine and when I start to give it some gas, i'll get almost to half throttle and the motor will start to like sputter or bog down and shake pretty rough. I think it needs a new impellar which would be the reasoning for the water intake issue but what would cause the motor to bog down or sputter and shake like that. I've had the carbs cleaned, replaced all the fuel lines, and fuel filter, new gas tank, primer bulb, motor mounts, ect. What do you think I should do after replacing the impellar?
It sounds to me like it could have a blown headgasket. This allows the exhaust gasses to escape into the water jackets and push the water out once you get to higher RPM.
Thank you so much. I will definitely check it out. I really appreciate your videos and have learned a lot from them.
Hi Stu. Thanks for the videos. Have a few questions. I would like to know where the water exhausts on a 1978 Johnson 70? Also what is the best way to ask questions that are not specific to a particular episode...unrelated?
So sure about the water on the old Johnson, sorry. Commenting on any video is fine, I'll get notifications. Otherwise the Facebook page is a good place.
👍👌
I have a Johnson 85’ 25 hp and i can’t get the forward bolt to drop out so I can drop the lower unit, any suggestions how to get it un-seized?
What type of oil does it takes in the gear box?
Dangar: You mention a missing air box...….. the 30hp motors of the 1994 era did not have air boxes on the front of the carb..
Yes, that’s right.
Do you ever just twist the bolt heads off with the impact driver?
The vent and fill on lower units are usually a flat blade screw. I've never broken a fastener using that type of impact driver. I'm from Michigan, so I'm lucky to only use my boats in fresh water ;-)
I meant the electric impact driver
I use an electric impact driver quite a bit. By twist the heads off I presume you mean that the bolt snaps? Yes, it does happen, but the 3/8 impact gun I have isn't really strong enough to do that so I'll start with that and if the bolt doesn't come out I'll apply some heat.
What do you do if some impeller blades are missing ? Do you check all the cooling circuit in search of them ?
Unfortunately yes. I normally start by trying to blow some compressed air backwards through the tell tale hose.
What do you think about pressured water through the tell tale hose ?
You may not have an air box because I've never seen one of that model with an air box.
Yes, a few people have mentioned that they mostly don't have an air box. I presume some do because there is a female thread in the front of the carb. Maybe I'll make a custom one! ;)
How & where can we order shirts & how large of a size do they go?
Hi make, link is dangarmarine.com.au/collections/merchandise/products/dangar-marine-t-shirt They go up to 4XL.
Add 20 hp and go back a year and you will have my outboard
Hopefully the vids will be useful to you!
Dangar Marine Yep I diagnosed a bad pump awhile back after the snow melts im getting a new one either then that it looks brand new I got a pretty good deal on mine
I see no progress in baot project
Yes, I talk about that at the end of this video.
Mate please: The screw on the bottom part, the bowl of the carburetor in the beginning, how is that set? I did a clean on my 30hp johnsons carb and didnt remove anything but took the bowl of and checked it. Back on the motor it´s now hard to start and that screw i´m talking about was a bit loose before so I tighten it. I´m ofcourse a outboard-idiot so I dont know much. Thanks for all your great videos!
Dave
Sweden