Canadian army mechanics drill out the threads in the upper left bolt hole and tap the same hole in the master cylinder to 7/16 fine. Then you can bolt the M/C from the front of the truck for that one hole. Makes life easy.😊
That last bolt turns a 30minute job into a 2hr job. When I swapped out my master cylinder i notched a little bit of the cross member with a die grinder so that the fourth bolt is a straight shot making it easier to.install. glad yer getting some use outta em lights. They do a decent job of lightning up things up that's fer sure. 👍
was able to slide deepwell soc with long Xtnd along MC top & catch bolt... think my 65has spec slot to allow will kno once get 1/2brake line loose n MC out nice vid thxs
the old bitch bolt, any mechanic knew that bolt and yes we left them out as the standard tool kit issued wouldn't let you get them in and out easily, had to get the 3/8 drive from the tool van to get them out
Just got my first M35A2. I'm gonna replace the master cylinder because it's leaking. How do I drain the brake fluid out of the master cylinder before removing it? Do I just crack open that bleeder screw In front of the air pack?
i'm about to go through a complete rebuild of the entire brake system 🤦♂️ i already replaced 1 of the wheel cylinders driver steer that's easy enough still have the rest to go my question is you mentioned the vent line is not needed however water can get in well years ago i had to replace the brake switch and i busted up the little brass fitting got a new 1 from zone because the brakes had no resistance if it wasn't connected 🤔 i assume this was because it went to the t fitting i saw in your video if this is the case would it be reasonable to just get a dab of dope and a brass plug to seal the t fitting and the top of the ms lid i plan on using this truck for hwy use towing a boat it's logical to me that dope would keep water out just the same as it would for any other plumbing use 🤷♂️ and if the t fitting is sealed then the brakes should have resistance when i depress them at least this is what im thinking you have more experience than i tho
@@logan-bw2jo so that T fitting just connects the master cylinder reservoir vent to the larger line which is your air pack exhaust vent. There's no reason I could fathom that would make any difference, since it just vents pressure to the air pack to atmosphere after the brakes are released. If you want to plug the extra port though, you'll need a 1/8" flare plug, since that's a double flare fitting.
Curious question i used to have brakes in mine and it does sit for extended periods of time but i got in it and i got no brakes whatsoever. All the way to the floor. So i crawled under and the rubber boot with the wires coming out on the airpack are leaking brake fluid out of them.?? Is my mc screwed or do i have another problem
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thanks for taking time and setting up the video its great to learn anything I can and its appreciated
Canadian army mechanics drill out the threads in the upper left bolt hole and tap the same hole in the master cylinder to 7/16 fine. Then you can bolt the M/C from the front of the truck for that one hole. Makes life easy.😊
bravo
That last bolt turns a 30minute job into a 2hr job. When I swapped out my master cylinder i notched a little bit of the cross member with a die grinder so that the fourth bolt is a straight shot making it easier to.install. glad yer getting some use outta em lights. They do a decent job of lightning up things up that's fer sure. 👍
was able to slide deepwell soc with long Xtnd along MC top & catch bolt... think my 65has spec slot to allow will kno once get 1/2brake line loose n MC out
nice vid thxs
I'm thinking of changing mine out to a dual circuit unit that big mike has.
the old bitch bolt, any mechanic knew that bolt and yes we left them out as the standard tool kit issued wouldn't let you get them in and out easily, had to get the 3/8 drive from the tool van to get them out
Yep, mine had the damn bolt in. Some friendly depot guy made sure to put more CARC on that particular bolt, than any other place on the whole truck.
What size are the fittings?
Just got my first M35A2. I'm gonna replace the master cylinder because it's leaking. How do I drain the brake fluid out of the master cylinder before removing it? Do I just crack open that bleeder screw In front of the air pack?
No. Use a turkey baster or just take the line off and let it drain.
i'm about to go through a complete rebuild of the entire brake system 🤦♂️ i already replaced 1 of the wheel cylinders driver steer that's easy enough still have the rest to go my question is you mentioned the vent line is not needed however water can get in well years ago i had to replace the brake switch and i busted up the little brass fitting got a new 1 from zone because the brakes had no resistance if it wasn't connected 🤔 i assume this was because it went to the t fitting i saw in your video if this is the case would it be reasonable to just get a dab of dope and a brass plug to seal the t fitting and the top of the ms lid i plan on using this truck for hwy use towing a boat it's logical to me that dope would keep water out just the same as it would for any other plumbing use 🤷♂️ and if the t fitting is sealed then the brakes should have resistance when i depress them at least this is what im thinking you have more experience than i tho
@@logan-bw2jo so that T fitting just connects the master cylinder reservoir vent to the larger line which is your air pack exhaust vent. There's no reason I could fathom that would make any difference, since it just vents pressure to the air pack to atmosphere after the brakes are released.
If you want to plug the extra port though, you'll need a 1/8" flare plug, since that's a double flare fitting.
What is the tell tell sign that the master cylinder needs to be replaced??
Leaking fluid or won't build pedal pressure even with a full reservoir.
how can it rust didn't you install a remote reservoir that keeps it full of dot5
It drained into his airpack from what he said on the last video
That, and this wasn't on my truck.
Curious question i used to have brakes in mine and it does sit for extended periods of time but i got in it and i got no brakes whatsoever. All the way to the floor. So i crawled under and the rubber boot with the wires coming out on the airpack are leaking brake fluid out of them.?? Is my mc screwed or do i have another problem
That's your brake light switch leaking fluid. That's why the military converted most of them to air actuated switches.
@@tacticalrepair is that something repairable or does it have to be converted?
@@MrBULLRIDER13 you can just replace it. Big Mike's has them in stock. They do have a habit of catching fire though.
@@tacticalrepair the converted ones or the electric ones I'm guessing you mean electric but making sure.