Thank you for taking time out of your day to produce this educational video. Our 92 yrs old grampa has this same stove in his tiny house where we live. It get's very hot and boils water for coffee. God's blessings on you.
Really well done video! Lots of people struggle with directions and common sense doesn't mean the item doesn't work they simply didn't put in the work.
The holes work like a secondary burn chamber. It burns the gas off like you said, but it burns to keep more heat in the house too and not up the flue. I like that little stove. THANKS FOR SHOWING IT! 😊😊
I have the first iteration of the 1269e. It's a little different. It has an air intake on the bottom of the stove and two holes on the door . It doesn't have cross tubes in the secondaries, it just has holes drilled in the bottom of those square tubes that run along the top sides. It also has a damper pinned to one position in the stove pipe adapter. This second version must work better . The original 1269e literally would not burn. Smoke poured out the door when opened. The top barely got warm. It was a nightmare. How it was sold is beyond me. I tried two and they both did the same thing. That's why people did whatever they needed to to get them to work. I imagine people buy the new version like you have, and see all the videos of people modifying the original version and think that's what is needed on the new one. I have not used the new one so I have no idea how well it works. I can only say the first version didn't work at all without doing several modifications.
Thank you for this information, very helpful. Is there anything that can be done in the event someone did take that material out that they thought was packing material?
I'm about to finish up my little 12 x 12 workshop and am going to put a small wood stove in it. I put that very same red metal roofing on my shop! Way to go with that. I don't know if I have enough left over to make a decent heat shield but I'm gonna try. Very well done!!
Thanks for the update. When I purchased mine. There was one video that showed the model I have. This is a good reference for those who just purchased they first stove.
I have this same stove. I drilled 6- 1/2” holes in the bottom of the stove door. 😂Stove now heats as you think it should from factory! I even have some bolts I stick in a couple holes because it gets too hot now!! You’re welcome!
@@peterlogan2105 I drilled 7- 1/2” holes across the bottom of the door. About 2” up and across the front. I get it hot, then stuff bolts in the holes to use as air control. I put out 550* on front burner adjust flu in back to 2/3 closed and put 3 bolts in up front for a toasty fire.
very informative segment. love the little house. I've been looking at these stoves since before they were EPA approved and had the removable "cook circles". I've been burning wood in my homes for over 40 years and have had cast iron stoves, steel stoves, cat stoves and non cat stoves. currently have two in the house and one in the garage. I prefer the non cat, and a damper.....old school....lol. interesting that is has no way of controlling the air flow. have you ever overfired it? as for cooking, i think some folks are impatient and don't wait for the stove to come up to temp or they are using their cast iron and don't let those pans come up to temp either. thanks for the revisit. appreciate the information passed along here and addressing viewers comments and concerns.
Thanks for watching. I knew going in that it was a single burn rate. I’ve haven’t had problems with overheating but it can drive me out if I put to much wood in it! I control the output as best as I can with shorter pieces of wood not the full length of the stove. It’s oversized for my cabin but I can live with it.
@@kevinbeaupre8925 thanks for watching. Once there’s a good bed of coals it burns completely. I do have to bring unburned wood to the front after a couple hours after first starting from scratch
Those fire starters are great, if you break them into 1/3 pieces and your wood is well seasoned they are more than sufficient to get your fire going and save some money.
Nice video. I've seen people install their pipes in backwards. that lets the creosote run down the outside of the pipe instead of the inside.....if you have creosote. with earlier models of the stove you could remove the heating plate with a lifter handle. i believe they made the top a solid piece to enable EPA compliancy. another way to get the draft going is use a small propane torch up the pipe. i like the stove for a garage shed or even a room or two. i almost bought one before they became EPA certified. i don't like the idea of not being able to shut it down or control the air flow.
Is there a way to sweep the chimney top->down without disconnecting the stove? Wondering how that k-wool might interfere with creosote from dropping into the stove
you can cut the crimp end off of the stove pipe going into the collar on top of the stove and it is a perfect fit without a gap or at least worked well for me.
I disagree about the damper. Having the ability to control the heat with a damper is what makes wood stove fire management possible. This gives you the ability to control the temperature and the rate of wood consumption. The way it's setup from the factory gives you NO control over the draw speed because the input tubes are wide open and the air inlet on the front door is wide open. I like to be able to pack it full of wood and shut it down a bit to preserve that wood all night or even longer. Otherwise your getting up all through the night to put more wood in the stove and open a window because it's too hot. All this new fiber baffle board and air inlet tubes is how the manufacturer was able to use an old casting design to meet the most recent EPA requirements. The same design was used for many years without the fiber board filter and the open air inlet tubes. If you want an original style stove you'll have to get rid of those things and make a way to control the air inlets and use a damper to control the flue. I'm working on that on mine. An adjustable air inlet. But just removing that fiber board and installing a damper was a great improvement.
You can do as you please with the EPA compliant components of this stove. However, they’re will be a day in your neck of the woods, where because of alterations done to wood stoves, the EPA will back the banning of wood stoves entirely because of actions like yours. I’m not a fan of the EPA or those type of regulations but it will happen.
@@LancoAmish I don't disagree with the premise that they are getting more strict but it doesn't have anything to do with how many old stoves there are in use or who did what with a new stove. It's just the way of the world. Also, my cabins and wood stoves are so remote that the EPA will never know. Makes me no mind anyway...I build my last stove from scratch and would do it again if need be. If I do buy another new one I will modify it to conserve wood and not blow through it like a torch...because that is better for the environment than using three times as much wood. Think about not only the amount of extra wood it goes through but a person has to leave a door open to keep from roasting, and the gas and oil it took to cut the wood, and probably transport it. The way I manage my fires it only takes a small amount of wood...keep it on a trickle and use very little. The U.S. before my modifications would go through so much wood and I wouldn't even get all the heat because of the white fiber board blocking so much of it.
I also have that stove and I have a damper in the pipe about six inches above the stove, and I use a ball of tin foil to close up part of the air intake in the door when needed, and yes I control my burn that way.
@@thirdsamuel6643 awesome comment...I use part of the white smoke filter that I took out of the firebox to do that but it tends to crumble so I'm working on a more stable and permanent solution preferably utilizing a temperature controlled spring to auto open and close an air gap.
For years I worked with mechanics and trades people and I remember a few that would struggle for hours with something then say when all else fails might as well read the manual. 😊
I have the same style of wood stove but mine is an Atlanta Stove Works 27 Box, it doesn't have any of the things you were talking about inside, the top swings over to the side and the round plates are removable, I've been wondering how much it could heat and if it would be safe to use in a little cabin.
Yes it did. I’m guessing there isn’t much quality control in the Chinese factory where these are manufactured. With a price point of around $350 the factories aren’t employing the best foundry men, welders, assemblers etc.
Hi! Love your videos. I have this same stove that I"m about to install in my workshop here in Michigan and I've been fretting about clearances to combustibles. What distance from the wall did you end up settling on? I'll be using cement fiber board (with 1-inch spacers) to create an insulated backer in the corner where I'm installing this, but hoping you could share some advice because the clearances listed in the stove's manual are pretty big.
I used the manual’s clearances. I believe the clearances decrease quite a bit for heat shields spaced from the wall though. I wouldn’t go closer because this stove can get really hot to the sides and back. Over time combustibles get easier to combust after repeated heatings. Be safe. www.ctsweep.com/blog/two-little-known-causes-of-house-fires/#:~:text=Pyrolysis%20is%20also%20a%20little,structural%20fires%20throughout%20North%20America.
I've owned several wood-burning stoves in my lifetime and always wondered if your little stove would be worth the effort. I appreciate your thorough video. The flaw I see and what keeps me from purchasing it for my tiny house is that the only way to clean out the ashes is to shovel them out. I love my large stove primarily for the ash clean-out drawer. I use that style of stove in my large home. However, I'm in search of a smaller stove with an ash clean-out drawer for my tiny house. would you happen to know of any?
Just bought one it's a great stove if you're capable of fixing things or understanding that you might have to problem solve because this is a cheaper stove if you want something that's more TurnKey than pay some more money otherwise put in the work and save some money 👍👍
Why do folks today put stoves inefficiently in a corner? Old photos place them in the center of the room where you gain much more heat from the pipe on its way to the chimney. Mine is centrally located in winter and tight in the corner all summer sitting on its stove casters.
I never gave that any thought mine is piped out of a window so it's next to the wall - I would not want it in the center of my living room or the one in my shop in the center of the shop -
For safety reasons, not to clutter rooms etc. I have this exact stove, burning in my loft of 620 SQ feet. Love it! Only thing one must clean it twice a day! Which it had an ash dump under the burner. Oh well still value to performance excellent
Ya, bought one 5 yrs ago and the door was an issue. So was the false ceiling. It's loose and slides front to back and if it gets bumped it can block the flue
Do you have any updates on the stove?Because I just bought one today and I guess.I didn't do enough research because I did not realize it had all this eco stuff
Yes. Mine works well. When opening the door to tend the fire just be sure to open a crack for a minute or so. This helps clear the smoke from the firebox and not pull it into the room. The baffle traps the smoke/gases in the firebox for secondary burning before exiting up the stove pipe.
Hi great video, I’m thinking of purchasing this model. But I’m not sure what pipes to get. I’m new to all of this and I’m learning the verbage and function so I don’t hurt myself or others. Do you have a link for purchasing the pipe and roof sealers?? Thank you.
If I were you I would find a reputable retailer/installer with specifics of your situation. They would have what you need or be able to steer you in the right direction.
Thanks for watching. I keep the door open an inch or so for about 10-15 minutes after starting. I use very well seasoned wood and build the fire top down. Kindling on top and that is lit. This warms your chimney quickly and starts a good draft. After closing your door you should be able to hear the air being drawn in through the vent in the door. You can’t miss the sound if you have a good draft. If you cannot hear the air being sucked in you do not have a good chimney draft and that’s when you would start trying to figure out what’s wrong with your chimney.
I bought one inside the wood stove there is a baffle board to control the fire and smoke I took it out and put a dapper in the stove pipe and burns like wood stove
@@travislee3915 , Thanks for watching. I have a short piece of 1/2” door gasket rope available to shut it down if I have to (never had to) You can just push it into the slot. The stove isn’t made to be regulated though on a regular basis.
@LancoAmish I understand it's not supposed to be. Just a little nervous I have a tiny house around 500sqft it just seems to get really hot. First wood stove I've had.
@ , I’ve had the same problem. I have played around with the amount of wood I load it with and the size. If you read through the comments you will get suggestions of what others have done. Good luck.
i got a wood stove made in china at tractor supply years ago-for years everytime it got real hot it smelled bad-tt was the paint burning and now it doesnt and half the stove is like ash colored-it wont heat my lr in my trailer over 60 deg f when its 35 or under-i cool the same space w a 8000 btu window ac-im gonna cover the windows this year but if it doesnt get warmer i gotta get a diff stove-
I’ve been burning wood since the mid 90’s and have used a lot of stoves. I don’t care how people rave about these little stoves, their only for recreational use in a weekend cabin or something like that. Not for real a working stove. You want a good stove, pay the money for a real stove. I’ll be replacing mine with a cook stove before next winter. If you’re on a budget, get yourself one of the old Ashley wood stoves. Those are absolutely amazing and really damn good for cooking.
What's your opinion on the Atlanta Stove Works Atlanta Georgia 27 Box? That's what I am using in my VERY small cabin, it's plumbed out the window. Mine doesn't have a damper. Unfortunately my stovepipe is OVER the collar. Third winter with my stove.
@@jerryturner-lo1zf I have this stove in a twenty seven foot fifth wheel trailer and I'm about four feet above the roof and I don't have any problems with back draft, I've had wood stoves before, even had one in a twenty foot teepee so I know a little about safety and stove pipes, I only used one double wall stove pipe in this trailer and that was where the window was, I have concrete board inside and outside that the double wall pipe passes through.
I'm thinking of buying this stove and placing it in my fireplace because my fireplace is almost useless for heat. I want to do this because i want to avoid installing the chimney and allowing the smoke/draft to flow up my existing fireplace chimney. Is this a bad idea? It appears that this is small enough to fit in my fireplace.
I have this stove and I'm not sure, but that doesn't sound like too bad of an idea, maybe you could even get a small section of pipe to make sure the smoke makes its way into the chimney
That's what I did last year in our finished basement. Only problem I encountered was having to cut a notch out of the iron damper plate in order to fit the flue liner through it. Having it in the fireplace as an insert has been good in that I don't have to worry about combustibles on 3 sides, and once the bricks of the fireplace heat up they radiate warmth for some time after the stove has died down.
@@TheSigmaWolves To be clear, I'm not just letting the smoke draft up through the existing brick/terra cotta chimney; I installed an insulated liner kit (25' of it!!) and fed that down through the damper plate to the wood stove. After experiencing a chimney fire as a child (wood stove running hot in a 200-yr-old chimney), I will forever insist upon having a liner insert when using a woodstove or woodstove insert. Plus, this little stove just doesn't have sufficient heat energy output to properly draft a standard home chimney, in my opinion. You'll run cool inside there for too long and build up an excessive amount of creosote, creating a fire hazard. That's my 2-cents, even though US Stove instructions do provide for just plugging it into your existing chimney.
Maybe they tear out that padding because they think it’s toxic? What is that “old aspdstice” made from? And those burn tubes on the ceiling of it are just cooking more of that weird material.
This is my second year of running this little stove. I have it installed in an old fireplace in our basement and it heats ok, but not fantastic. One thing that surprised me is how quickly it actually goes through hardwood. This is NOT a stove that you can just stoke a few large pieces for the night and expect it to slow-burn through to morning. A drawback of using a single-rate of burn stove and no damper. That said, I have a couple issues to note: 1. The door handle is horrible design and becomes loose after several open/closes, plus the angle of it is simply awkward. 2. The incredibly narrow space between the baffle and the sides/top means that it doesn't take much creosote and soot buildup to create an obstruction for your draft and then render your stove nothing more than a smoke box. (this is us now at 2 years). 3. The cast iron legs are thin and, as cast iron is brittle, they are prone to cracking if the stove is not handled with the utmost care when being moved. 3. Due to the design of the stove and the baffle, this thing is a royal PITA for cleaning. Since I have this backed into a fireplace, detaching the pipe/collar and moving the stove in and out every time for cleaning is a pain, but also considering US Stove recommends inspecting it every 2 months of use plus annual flue cleaning increases the frustration. Placing it as a fireplace insert is on me, but the design and difficulty and frequency with needing cleaning is on them, plus how difficult it is to service the baffle. I probably won't be buying any more of their products and will keep my eye out for an upgrade to replace this in our basement.
I have this stove and I hate the handle! mine never stayed on from the beginning and, you're right, it is at a weird angle. Not sure why mfr just didn't make the handle attached to the door like every other woodstove. It's a cheap stove, I understand, but it should be manufactured to at least function correctly.
@@bn2busy I picked up a new welder (as a Xmas gift to me) and thinking I may tack-weld the nut to the handle shaft on the inside of the door to prevent it from backing off when turning. Now, before anyone goes, "How the hell are you gonna get that off of there if you weld it?!", keep in mind that this is a $14 part that will likely never need to be replaced and, if for some reason it did, I will gain immense pleasure in cutting/grinding this damnable part to remove it. (only need to remove the weld spot, honestly). If it came down to actually replacing the handle, I'll likely reach out to one of the local forges or shops around here and have them make me one of a better design.
That stove has come a long way from the old design which actually was quite poor. It definitely needs an adjuster on the air intake, if it had that it coud be an awesome low cost heat source.
Thank goodness mine was bought by my parents b4 all the emmisions bs had to be added to them and gave it to me unused. The reburner works really well when in a new furnace design with a catalytic converter and other advancements, it works horrible by itself.
A $300 stove won't be good, with or without secondary burn. There is a reason stoves get expensive and it's all about the quality. Burning less wood pays off eventually. Cheap fast burning stoves have their place but in a house isn't one.
I'm curious, your tiny house looks small Sq. Ft. wise. Does this stove drive you out of the house? We are building a 288 sq ft tiny house and I'm worried this stove will be way too much.
Mine is smaller. It gets real warm in there especially in the loft. I build only small fires to control the heat. It’s a single burn rate stove so you can’t really control the output except by the amount of fire you have inside.
@@LancoAmish thank you for your response. I posted while watching your video and had not gotten to the part where you explained that it gets way too hot for your tiny house. I'm looking at the Dwarf 4kw wood stove for the space I am wanting heat in.
If that is the case you more than likely have a poor drafting chimney set up. Too many elbows, chimney not high enough above roofline, or a chimney cap too close to the top. Another possibility in poorly seasoned wood.
@@LancoAmish my good sir I am well aware that you use a brush and a vacuum my question refers to how do you get the brush and vacuum to that location with that insert thing in the way are the burners on top removable does that thing come out and can be put back in and please excuse my ignorance in this subject the wood stove I have is a pot belly and it doesn't have any of that
@@rain420war , the tubes inside are able to be taken out. The kaowool pad is a part in the parts diagram that can be ordered so I am assuming it can also be replaced, taken out. The top of the pad is also accessible through the flue collar after pipes are detached. It shouldn’t be too difficult to get in their with a vacuum hose attachment.
Thanks so much for making this video. Now, I know for sure that I will not purchase this particular wood stove. There is absolutely nothing that I like about it. Appreciate it!
Just watched your vid today and your theory of warming your chimney by starting the kindling fire on top is just not so. You light a kindling fire first in your stove that is sufficent to get the chimeny warm then load your big stuff on top Fire for all intesive perposes burns up not down. example watch a grass fire in the middle of a side hill the fire always runs up the hill and really dosent go down the hill at least not at nerely the rate as up the hill.
@@LancoAmish Nope your still wrong When we used to go into burning buildings we were always woried about the floor under us not so much of what was on top think about it just because your system works dose not make it logical and or right listten to the logic I am presenting. And no they dont start better I can prove it over and over again with just what I am saying 35 year fireman here . But hay buddy if it works for you knock yourself out. Its still not true.
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Thank you for taking time out of your day to produce this educational video.
Our 92 yrs old grampa has this same stove in his tiny house where we live. It get's very hot and boils water for coffee.
God's blessings on you.
Thank you. Getting ready to install. Your input is very helpful!😊
Really well done video! Lots of people struggle with directions and common sense doesn't mean the item doesn't work they simply didn't put in the work.
Fantastic video! Has really helped me make a decision for my cabin
The holes work like a secondary burn chamber. It burns the gas off like you said, but it burns to keep more heat in the house too and not up the flue. I like that little stove. THANKS FOR SHOWING IT! 😊😊
Very well thought out video. Thanks for the information and your insight into this stove.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge on the wood stove well appreciated, very helpful, blessings from California
Nice informative article. Not what I expected for the low priced stove.
Good video Chuck!
Thorough coverage on the complaints.
I have the first iteration of the 1269e. It's a little different. It has an air intake on the bottom of the stove and two holes on the door . It doesn't have cross tubes in the secondaries, it just has holes drilled in the bottom of those square tubes that run along the top sides. It also has a damper pinned to one position in the stove pipe adapter.
This second version must work better . The original 1269e literally would not burn. Smoke poured out the door when opened. The top barely got warm. It was a nightmare. How it was sold is beyond me. I tried two and they both did the same thing. That's why people did whatever they needed to to get them to work.
I imagine people buy the new version like you have, and see all the videos of people modifying the original version and think that's what is needed on the new one. I have not used the new one so I have no idea how well it works. I can only say the first version didn't work at all without doing several modifications.
Thank you for this information, very helpful. Is there anything that can be done in the event someone did take that material out that they thought was packing material?
I'm about to finish up my little 12 x 12 workshop and am going to put a small wood stove in it. I put that very same red metal roofing on my shop! Way to go with that. I don't know if I have enough left over to make a decent heat shield but I'm gonna try. Very well done!!
great review and helpfull tips im here in middle TN cant wait for mine to come in and get it all dialed in.
Thank you so much for watching and dropping the kind comment. Both are greatly appreciated!
Thank you for the informative video. Watching in Amarillo Tx. Preparing to install my wood box in my cabin in Oklahoma.
I have had one of these for years, we love it.
This is great I just got one of theses stoves I’m coming thankful for those tips,
Do you think it would affect the draft if I put a fire brick in the very back of the stove behind the two braces?
I installed one of these stoves and find your video to be pretty helpful. Thanks.
Thanks for watching! Much appreciated.
Thanks for the update. When I purchased mine. There was one video that showed the model I have. This is a good reference for those who just purchased they first stove.
Thanks for watching and dropping a comment. Both are greatly appreciated!
This video is just as good as the first one. Nice follow-up.
Great video I have a this very same stove installed in my garage Central Alberta Canada. It works really good
Thank you for the info on this stove. Going to buy one to use in emergency situations.
@@Missourioutdoors1 , thanks for watching. I’m glad the video was useful.
Great job explaining!
I have this same stove. I drilled 6- 1/2” holes in the bottom of the stove door. 😂Stove now heats as you think it should from factory! I even have some bolts I stick in a couple holes because it gets too hot now!!
You’re welcome!
I also drilled holes in my door and I ripped that pad thing out and it works awesome now.
How many holes and how big? I actually want to heat water on the top of it for coffee and/or tea, so I took the pad off, too.
@@peterlogan2105 I DRILLED EIGHT HOLES AT THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR ON MINE ABOUT A PENCILS DIAMETER. BURNS GOOD NOW!
@@peterlogan2105 I drilled 7- 1/2” holes across the bottom of the door. About 2” up and across the front. I get it hot, then stuff bolts in the holes to use as air control. I put out 550* on front burner adjust flu in back to 2/3 closed and put 3 bolts in up front for a toasty fire.
I'm looking to get this stove as well. How tall is it with the legs installed?
Thank You for the video Sir!
very informative segment. love the little house. I've been looking at these stoves since before they were EPA approved and had the removable "cook circles". I've been burning wood in my homes for over 40 years and have had cast iron stoves, steel stoves, cat stoves and non cat stoves. currently have two in the house and one in the garage. I prefer the non cat, and a damper.....old school....lol. interesting that is has no way of controlling the air flow. have you ever overfired it? as for cooking, i think some folks are impatient and don't wait for the stove to come up to temp or they are using their cast iron and don't let those pans come up to temp either. thanks for the revisit. appreciate the information passed along here and addressing viewers comments and concerns.
Thanks for watching. I knew going in that it was a single burn rate. I’ve haven’t had problems with overheating but it can drive me out if I put to much wood in it! I control the output as best as I can with shorter pieces of wood not the full length of the stove. It’s oversized for my cabin but I can live with it.
Does it burn the wood thats at the back of the stove i recently got one and set it up per instructions and it leaves alot of unburn wood in the back?
@@kevinbeaupre8925 thanks for watching. Once there’s a good bed of coals it burns completely. I do have to bring unburned wood to the front after a couple hours after first starting from scratch
Those fire starters are great, if you break them into 1/3 pieces and your wood is well seasoned they are more than sufficient to get your fire going and save some money.
EXCELLENT VIDEO! Job well done
Good job, sir!
Nice video. I've seen people install their pipes in backwards. that lets the creosote run down the outside of the pipe instead of the inside.....if you have creosote. with earlier models of the stove you could remove the heating plate with a lifter handle. i believe they made the top a solid piece to enable EPA compliancy. another way to get the draft going is use a small propane torch up the pipe. i like the stove for a garage shed or even a room or two. i almost bought one before they became EPA certified. i don't like the idea of not being able to shut it down or control the air flow.
What kind of burn time you getting?
How slow does it burn if u can’t control the air? Does it burn wood up real fast?
Is there a way to sweep the chimney top->down without disconnecting the stove? Wondering how that k-wool might interfere with creosote from dropping into the stove
you can cut the crimp end off of the stove pipe going into the collar on top of the stove and it is a perfect fit without a gap or at least worked well for me.
I disagree about the damper. Having the ability to control the heat with a damper is what makes wood stove fire management possible. This gives you the ability to control the temperature and the rate of wood consumption. The way it's setup from the factory gives you NO control over the draw speed because the input tubes are wide open and the air inlet on the front door is wide open. I like to be able to pack it full of wood and shut it down a bit to preserve that wood all night or even longer. Otherwise your getting up all through the night to put more wood in the stove and open a window because it's too hot.
All this new fiber baffle board and air inlet tubes is how the manufacturer was able to use an old casting design to meet the most recent EPA requirements. The same design was used for many years without the fiber board filter and the open air inlet tubes. If you want an original style stove you'll have to get rid of those things and make a way to control the air inlets and use a damper to control the flue. I'm working on that on mine. An adjustable air inlet. But just removing that fiber board and installing a damper was a great improvement.
You can do as you please with the EPA compliant components of this stove. However, they’re will be a day in your neck of the woods, where because of alterations done to wood stoves, the EPA will back the banning of wood stoves entirely because of actions like yours. I’m not a fan of the EPA or those type of regulations but it will happen.
@@LancoAmish I don't disagree with the premise that they are getting more strict but it doesn't have anything to do with how many old stoves there are in use or who did what with a new stove. It's just the way of the world. Also, my cabins and wood stoves are so remote that the EPA will never know. Makes me no mind anyway...I build my last stove from scratch and would do it again if need be. If I do buy another new one I will modify it to conserve wood and not blow through it like a torch...because that is better for the environment than using three times as much wood. Think about not only the amount of extra wood it goes through but a person has to leave a door open to keep from roasting, and the gas and oil it took to cut the wood, and probably transport it. The way I manage my fires it only takes a small amount of wood...keep it on a trickle and use very little. The U.S. before my modifications would go through so much wood and I wouldn't even get all the heat because of the white fiber board blocking so much of it.
I also have that stove and I have a damper in the pipe about six inches above the stove, and I use a ball of tin foil to close up part of the air intake in the door when needed, and yes I control my burn that way.
@@thirdsamuel6643 awesome comment...I use part of the white smoke filter that I took out of the firebox to do that but it tends to crumble so I'm working on a more stable and permanent solution preferably utilizing a temperature controlled spring to auto open and close an air gap.
Excellent information. Thank you sir.
Good review. Judging from some of the comments the sound advice you gave came a little late for some.
I have the same stove and I added a damper and pulled out the baffle. It works excellent without all that gibberish.
Did you put the damper in the pipe? Getting ready to put one in myself.
I have a hole in my baffle and the flames seem to be roaring up the black pipe what should I do ?
I have an extremely high end jotul 600. But im no snob. I had a Chinese box stove just like this and im saying they're great. They really work great.
Great video- thanks for sharing!
For years I worked with mechanics and trades people and I remember a few that would struggle for hours with something then say when all else fails might as well read the manual. 😊
Great video.
Good review….the ash has to be removed if you heat over 5 hrs. It is warm and keeps the cabin toasty. The ash builds. Good review.
Sorry thanks for informing me, been looking at these little guys
my wife lost the door latch catch any idea on how I can get one or what I can use as one
I have the same style of wood stove but mine is an Atlanta Stove Works 27 Box, it doesn't have any of the things you were talking about inside, the top swings over to the side and the round plates are removable, I've been wondering how much it could heat and if it would be safe to use in a little cabin.
Great info, I'm not sure if I can get this in California but I'll check with TSC
Great i was wondering what the cardboard looking piece was. 😊
Did the door come with the seal? Mine did not plus your secondary air intake is different than mine
Yes it did. I’m guessing there isn’t much quality control in the Chinese factory where these are manufactured. With a price point of around $350 the factories aren’t employing the best foundry men, welders, assemblers etc.
Hi! Love your videos. I have this same stove that I"m about to install in my workshop here in Michigan and I've been fretting about clearances to combustibles. What distance from the wall did you end up settling on? I'll be using cement fiber board (with 1-inch spacers) to create an insulated backer in the corner where I'm installing this, but hoping you could share some advice because the clearances listed in the stove's manual are pretty big.
I used the manual’s clearances. I believe the clearances decrease quite a bit for heat shields spaced from the wall though. I wouldn’t go closer because this stove can get really hot to the sides and back. Over time combustibles get easier to combust after repeated heatings. Be safe.
www.ctsweep.com/blog/two-little-known-causes-of-house-fires/#:~:text=Pyrolysis%20is%20also%20a%20little,structural%20fires%20throughout%20North%20America.
I've owned several wood-burning stoves in my lifetime and always wondered if your little stove would be worth the effort. I appreciate your thorough video. The flaw I see and what keeps me from purchasing it for my tiny house is that the only way to clean out the ashes is to shovel them out.
I love my large stove primarily for the ash clean-out drawer. I use that style of stove in my large home. However, I'm in search of a smaller stove with an ash clean-out drawer for my tiny house. would you happen to know of any?
Can use an ash vac…
Thanks, I didn't know about ash vacumes.
Excellent information and demonstration 😊
Just bought one it's a great stove if you're capable of fixing things or understanding that you might have to problem solve because this is a cheaper stove if you want something that's more TurnKey than pay some more money otherwise put in the work and save some money 👍👍
Did / does anyone install this stove themselves? in a house with no chimney? or have professionally completed?
What would you do if you accidentally puncture the kaowool . The flames are climbing up the black pipe now ..don't know what to do any suggestions?
@@ImOutdoorzManTv high temp refractory cement is something I would try but I can make recommendations for you.
I have same stove 5 yes works good no need to spend $2000 on a stove unless you have a really big house
You should do a video trying to navigate those stairs after a few cocktails
I think you’ve had one to many yourself today.
I put in a steel rack to keep the wood off of bottom, works great now
Is it possible to bank coals in this stove for overnight burning?
I only get 4-5 hours of burn time out of mine, coals are dead in 6.
@@AdvantureRoad same time frame with my Atlanta Stove Works 27 Box
@@AdvantureRoad same time frame with my Atlanta Stove Works 27 Box
The book also says not to put fire bricks in it , and it blows for cooking period
Why do folks today put stoves inefficiently in a corner? Old photos place them in the center of the room where you gain much more heat from the pipe on its way to the chimney. Mine is centrally located in winter and tight in the corner all summer sitting on its stove casters.
Some ppl use a fan behind the stove for heat exchange, that's what I do in my shop and works good, and you don't have to worry about moving it
I never gave that any thought mine is piped out of a window so it's next to the wall -
I would not want it in the center of my living room or the one in my shop in the center of the shop -
Quite clearly this is a tiny cabin. He doesn't need that extra heat.
For safety reasons, not to clutter rooms etc. I have this exact stove, burning in my loft of 620 SQ feet. Love it! Only thing one must clean it twice a day! Which it had an ash dump under the burner. Oh well still value to performance excellent
I don't understand it either. Common sense says in the middle of the house.
Ya, bought one 5 yrs ago and the door was an issue. So was the false ceiling. It's loose and slides front to back and if it gets bumped it can block the flue
Do you have any updates on the stove?Because I just bought one today and I guess.I didn't do enough research because I did not realize it had all this eco stuff
I like that wall temperature and clock. Where did you get that?
Did you try to get your hearth pad to an R value of 2? I see this detail in the manual which is a high r value.
The stove pipe, single, double, or tripped walled?
And just to clarify - this wood stove does work with the "baffle board" in place?
Yes. Mine works well. When opening the door to tend the fire just be sure to open a crack for a minute or so. This helps clear the smoke from the firebox and not pull it into the room. The baffle traps the smoke/gases in the firebox for secondary burning before exiting up the stove pipe.
What is the weight of the stove?
Hi great video, I’m thinking of purchasing this model. But I’m not sure what pipes to get. I’m new to all of this and I’m learning the verbage and function so I don’t hurt myself or others. Do you have a link for purchasing the pipe and roof sealers?? Thank you.
If I were you I would find a reputable retailer/installer with specifics of your situation. They would have what you need or be able to steer you in the right direction.
Everytime I close the door, the fire smolders out? Do I need to pack it full of wood to get good draw?
Thanks for watching. I keep the door open an inch or so for about 10-15 minutes after starting. I use very well seasoned wood and build the fire top down. Kindling on top and that is lit. This warms your chimney quickly and starts a good draft. After closing your door you should be able to hear the air being drawn in through the vent in the door. You can’t miss the sound if you have a good draft. If you cannot hear the air being sucked in you do not have a good chimney draft and that’s when you would start trying to figure out what’s wrong with your chimney.
I bought one inside the wood stove there is a baffle board to control the fire and smoke I took it out and put a dapper in the stove pipe and burns like wood stove
How do you shut it down if it gets to hot??
@@travislee3915 , Thanks for watching. I have a short piece of 1/2” door gasket rope available to shut it down if I have to (never had to) You can just push it into the slot. The stove isn’t made to be regulated though on a regular basis.
@LancoAmish I understand it's not supposed to be. Just a little nervous I have a tiny house around 500sqft it just seems to get really hot. First wood stove I've had.
@ , I’ve had the same problem. I have played around with the amount of wood I load it with and the size.
If you read through the comments you will get suggestions of what others have done. Good luck.
@LancoAmish lol have been. Alot of good info. I appreciate your reply and video. Thanks
i got a wood stove made in china at tractor supply years ago-for years everytime it got real hot it smelled bad-tt was the paint burning and now it doesnt and half the stove is like ash colored-it wont heat my lr in my trailer over 60 deg f when its 35 or under-i cool the same space w a 8000 btu window ac-im gonna cover the windows this year but if it doesnt get warmer i gotta get a diff stove-
I used seam pipe. It needed narrowing to reach the 3 anchor points. Used 2 pair of channellocks bend like /\/\/\/\ flex around.
How do you clean the stovepipe?
The stove pipe needs to be detached from the stove. A bag can be put over the end and the pipe cleaned from above.
What if you already dug out and threw away?
I’ve been burning wood since the mid 90’s and have used a lot of stoves. I don’t care how people rave about these little stoves, their only for recreational use in a weekend cabin or something like that. Not for real a working stove. You want a good stove, pay the money for a real stove. I’ll be replacing mine with a cook stove before next winter. If you’re on a budget, get yourself one of the old Ashley wood stoves. Those are absolutely amazing and really damn good for cooking.
What's your opinion on the Atlanta Stove Works Atlanta Georgia 27 Box? That's what I am using in my VERY small cabin, it's plumbed out the window. Mine doesn't have a damper. Unfortunately my stovepipe is OVER the collar. Third winter with my stove.
You can make 1 with a old stove and 2 big 1/4 inch plates
Can you put a 90 degree out a window or a side wall instead of roof
I have the same stove and I did run the pipe out a window, I used two corrugated ninites and don't have a problem with it.
@@thirdsamuel6643 how high did you go up with external pipe
@@jerryturner-lo1zf I used four sections of two foot single wall stove pipe.
@@thirdsamuel6643 did you go above the eve or the ridge and do you have any problems with back draft
@@jerryturner-lo1zf I have this stove in a twenty seven foot fifth wheel trailer and I'm about four feet above the roof and I don't have any problems with back draft, I've had wood stoves before, even had one in a twenty foot teepee so I know a little about safety and stove pipes, I only used one double wall stove pipe in this trailer and that was where the window was, I have concrete board inside and outside that the double wall pipe passes through.
I'm thinking of buying this stove and placing it in my fireplace because my fireplace is almost useless for heat. I want to do this because i want to avoid installing the chimney and allowing the smoke/draft to flow up my existing fireplace chimney. Is this a bad idea? It appears that this is small enough to fit in my fireplace.
I have this stove and I'm not sure, but that doesn't sound like too bad of an idea, maybe you could even get a small section of pipe to make sure the smoke makes its way into the chimney
@@diegoruiz7600 thanks for the info friend
That's what I did last year in our finished basement. Only problem I encountered was having to cut a notch out of the iron damper plate in order to fit the flue liner through it. Having it in the fireplace as an insert has been good in that I don't have to worry about combustibles on 3 sides, and once the bricks of the fireplace heat up they radiate warmth for some time after the stove has died down.
@@Mears4Liberty exactly what I wanted to hear. Thank you both!
@@TheSigmaWolves To be clear, I'm not just letting the smoke draft up through the existing brick/terra cotta chimney; I installed an insulated liner kit (25' of it!!) and fed that down through the damper plate to the wood stove. After experiencing a chimney fire as a child (wood stove running hot in a 200-yr-old chimney), I will forever insist upon having a liner insert when using a woodstove or woodstove insert. Plus, this little stove just doesn't have sufficient heat energy output to properly draft a standard home chimney, in my opinion. You'll run cool inside there for too long and build up an excessive amount of creosote, creating a fire hazard. That's my 2-cents, even though US Stove instructions do provide for just plugging it into your existing chimney.
People are probably trying cook on it with cast iron or steel, id recommend thin aluminum or thin rolled steel pans should do the job
If that had a glass front or side I'd get one today.
Definitely would be cool if they incorporated a glass front. I think it would look great and help assess the fire 🔥.
Maybe they tear out that padding because they think it’s toxic? What is that “old aspdstice” made from? And those burn tubes on the ceiling of it are just cooking more of that weird material.
Great video!
As a fire-starter, I keep a covered bucket of sawdust saturated with fuel oil. One small scoop is all that's required to light it off.
Pine shouldn't be burned.It is a sappy wood,the resin sticks to your pipe, and it causes build-up.
This is my second year of running this little stove. I have it installed in an old fireplace in our basement and it heats ok, but not fantastic. One thing that surprised me is how quickly it actually goes through hardwood. This is NOT a stove that you can just stoke a few large pieces for the night and expect it to slow-burn through to morning. A drawback of using a single-rate of burn stove and no damper. That said, I have a couple issues to note: 1. The door handle is horrible design and becomes loose after several open/closes, plus the angle of it is simply awkward. 2. The incredibly narrow space between the baffle and the sides/top means that it doesn't take much creosote and soot buildup to create an obstruction for your draft and then render your stove nothing more than a smoke box. (this is us now at 2 years). 3. The cast iron legs are thin and, as cast iron is brittle, they are prone to cracking if the stove is not handled with the utmost care when being moved. 3. Due to the design of the stove and the baffle, this thing is a royal PITA for cleaning. Since I have this backed into a fireplace, detaching the pipe/collar and moving the stove in and out every time for cleaning is a pain, but also considering US Stove recommends inspecting it every 2 months of use plus annual flue cleaning increases the frustration. Placing it as a fireplace insert is on me, but the design and difficulty and frequency with needing cleaning is on them, plus how difficult it is to service the baffle. I probably won't be buying any more of their products and will keep my eye out for an upgrade to replace this in our basement.
I have this stove and I hate the handle! mine never stayed on from the beginning and, you're right, it is at a weird angle. Not sure why mfr just didn't make the handle attached to the door like every other woodstove. It's a cheap stove, I understand, but it should be manufactured to at least function correctly.
@@bn2busy I picked up a new welder (as a Xmas gift to me) and thinking I may tack-weld the nut to the handle shaft on the inside of the door to prevent it from backing off when turning. Now, before anyone goes, "How the hell are you gonna get that off of there if you weld it?!", keep in mind that this is a $14 part that will likely never need to be replaced and, if for some reason it did, I will gain immense pleasure in cutting/grinding this damnable part to remove it. (only need to remove the weld spot, honestly). If it came down to actually replacing the handle, I'll likely reach out to one of the local forges or shops around here and have them make me one of a better design.
taking that filliment out hurts nothing those potbellys didnt have them 10 years ago
As he's saying he's not getting any smoke look at his fingers as he has wiped the stove pipe lol.
That stove has come a long way from the old design which actually was quite poor. It definitely needs an adjuster on the air intake, if it had that it coud be an awesome low cost heat source.
Thank goodness mine was bought by my parents b4 all the emmisions bs had to be added to them and gave it to me unused. The reburner works really well when in a new furnace design with a catalytic converter and other advancements, it works horrible by itself.
A $300 stove won't be good, with or without secondary burn. There is a reason stoves get expensive and it's all about the quality. Burning less wood pays off eventually. Cheap fast burning stoves have their place but in a house isn't one.
Ok maybe ask some people that have actually used them 30 plus years instead of guessing
I put a damper in mine. It works fine. Need to go back to the Appalachian Mountains.
I'm curious, your tiny house looks small Sq. Ft. wise. Does this stove drive you out of the house? We are building a 288 sq ft tiny house and I'm worried this stove will be way too much.
Mine is smaller. It gets real warm in there especially in the loft. I build only small fires to control the heat. It’s a single burn rate stove so you can’t really control the output except by the amount of fire you have inside.
@@LancoAmish thank you for your response. I posted while watching your video and had not gotten to the part where you explained that it gets way too hot for your tiny house. I'm looking at the Dwarf 4kw wood stove for the space I am wanting heat in.
Mine wont even burn good little lone get hot enough to cook on it .
If that is the case you more than likely have a poor drafting chimney set up. Too many elbows, chimney not high enough above roofline, or a chimney cap too close to the top.
Another possibility in poorly seasoned wood.
Show me the Cadillac converter in that stove
No catalytic converter in this stove.
My question is if you can't remove that thing that makes it burn more efficiently how you going to clean it
Brush and vacuum just like you would with any ash buildup in any stove.
@@LancoAmish my good sir I am well aware that you use a brush and a vacuum my question refers to how do you get the brush and vacuum to that location with that insert thing in the way are the burners on top removable does that thing come out and can be put back in and please excuse my ignorance in this subject the wood stove I have is a pot belly and it doesn't have any of that
@@rain420war , the tubes inside are able to be taken out. The kaowool pad is a part in the parts diagram that can be ordered so I am assuming it can also be replaced, taken out. The top of the pad is also accessible through the flue collar after pipes are detached. It shouldn’t be too difficult to get in their with a vacuum hose attachment.
@@LancoAmish thank u
If you put it all the way in it doesn't have a gap.
Mine is a really old model & needs to be sealed around the joints. Mine is definately not very efficient.
What is the burn time fully loaded.
Thanks for watching. About 6-7 hours with coals to restart if you burn good hardwood. It’s not that roomy inside.
Thanks so much for making this video. Now, I know for sure that I will not purchase this particular wood stove. There is absolutely nothing that I like about it. Appreciate it!
Always happy to help.
Just watched your vid today and your theory of warming your chimney by starting the kindling fire on top is just not so. You light a kindling fire first in your stove that is sufficent to get the chimeny warm then load your big stuff on top Fire for all intesive perposes burns up not down. example watch a grass fire in the middle of a side hill the fire always runs up the hill and really dosent go down the hill at least not at nerely the rate as up the hill.
@@dog_guy-c8x , sorry, you are incorrect. Try it…your opinion will change just like mine. Fires will start better with the kindling on top.
@@LancoAmish Nope your still wrong When we used to go into burning buildings we were always woried about the floor under us not so much of what was on top think about it just because your system works dose not make it logical and or right listten to the logic I am presenting. And no they dont start better I can prove it over and over again with just what I am saying 35 year fireman here . But hay buddy if it works for you knock yourself out. Its still not true.