See more motorcycle maintenance tips on Countersteer - www.jpcycles.com/countersteer?Motorcycle_Chain_Install_using_an_EK_Three_D_Chain&BcaRekw&feature=youtu.be
Good quality video. The only think I would suggest would be to add measuring the chain width so you know how far you've pressed the master link on as well as measuring your flair with each master link pin. Flair should be about 0.5-0.7mm for that chain if I'm correct. Thank you for sharing!
It’s not the rings that you lube, it’s the pins, the rings are for sealing the lube in. You slide the first seals in place then apply a generous coating of line to the pins then slide the connecting line through then put the remaining two seals in place.
WTF? same sprox and you didn't even clean them? why? honestly and I'm not trying to tell you how to do your job but if you flip that master link around its going to look a whole lot better no matter where the chain stops.. normally chains I don't do this but with these profiled links that look so darn good I wanted them all to have that good look, note how the crimp side of the master is not a gold rivet and those look so good against the power coated links, what a great looking chain.. if the owner wants that look facing out he can get another master off EK and install it backwards or facing out .. that chain makes that bike look like a fine European bike.. bout time someone took the initiative to make a chain that not only performs but looks fantastic on that black Kawasaki Zed 900, WOW! this chain really performs cuz when its time to celan, it cleans up so much easier and look at the size of those link ends, and QX2 rings ... means more wear and tear and note how THICK those plates and links are.. holy smokes,a dn they have increased the diameter of the thru shafts.. I can easily run this 520 on my Hayabusa no issues at all, remember, a 520 vs a 530 is the same plate length, no difference there, the 53- is just wider than a 520 so there is more sprocket and barrel surface area giving you hopefully a little more wear out of the chain, the plates are not any thinner or longer so the strength is the same, having the larger diameter thru shafts the strength is a lot more than your stock 530 chain, so this EK Z 520 3D is actually stronger than the stock 530 chain.. my real savings is in the sprocket weight, now I can run a good hard anodized aluminum and cut down on rotating mass and we all know the benefit of that.. everywhere also this is the SMOOTHEST chain i have EVER ran bar none, its simply amazing, sure you pay, but look what you get, its like paying $50 a more for tires, but the tires might have 1000 less miles on em, but the miles you do get are just so much better all the way around, safer, cuz grip = SAFETY or its like better brakes, yes they cost more, but look what you get.. its not one of those, well $1500 more for a termignoni hmm, is it worth it? these are real performance items you actually want, and I put the chain/sprox wright up there with wheels tires and brakes, cuz you cannot get the max out of either without a good smooth chain and sprox.. chain and sprox can effect transmission performance, so eliminating miss shifts for smoother shifting thank you may I have another.. tension is key, what you put on that master and slack of course.. just enough to crimp it no more, and this starts with how tight you put the plate on be careful let the rivet crimping push the plate on to its final destination ...some masters are coming with a spacer today so you cannot crimp too much and I highly recommend, crimp too much and the washers are too tight and the chain has a tight spot, not good cuz it wears sprox prematurely, keep this in mid, just enough to crimp no further, make a spacer if in doubt, when finished the link should be as loose as the rest, you can always go tighter but you cannot loosen, if you do get it too tight buy another and replace right away don't even ride on it EK really needs serious props for this 3D chain it not only looks better than another chain out there, it performs better, and I don't care if I only get 4000 miles out of it, its a well enjoyed performing 4000 miles right? and I have the wheels off anyways for new tires right? 🙂
No disrespect but it looks like you mangled the rivet, it’s hard to tell without a close up but you don’t need to flare the rivet that much for it to work, in fact there is a tolerance and you can measure the width. That’s probably weakened because it’s been flared so much. Butchered!
lol an air compressor is pretty standard equipment in a garage, however bolt cutters are even more standard and easier than the "chain cutter" gimmick that you're probably sponsored to show off and use. Also where's the lube before connection of the links? This just seems like a rushed cut and edit video just to put out...
See more motorcycle maintenance tips on Countersteer - www.jpcycles.com/countersteer?Motorcycle_Chain_Install_using_an_EK_Three_D_Chain&BcaRekw&feature=youtu.be
Good quality video. The only think I would suggest would be to add measuring the chain width so you know how far you've pressed the master link on as well as measuring your flair with each master link pin. Flair should be about 0.5-0.7mm for that chain if I'm correct. Thank you for sharing!
Um...no lubing the rings before connecting the links?
It’s not the rings that you lube, it’s the pins, the rings are for sealing the lube in. You slide the first seals in place then apply a generous coating of line to the pins then slide the connecting line through then put the remaining two seals in place.
Nice Video pal, I will but that exact same chain from your website 👍 for my 2019 CB1000-R.
Cheers
That's a cool bike. Envious of whoever gets to ride it.
Dont be....its not that cool :D
WTF? same sprox and you didn't even clean them? why?
honestly and I'm not trying to tell you how to do your job but if you flip that master link around its going to look a whole lot better no matter where the chain stops.. normally chains I don't do this but with these profiled links that look so darn good I wanted them all to have that good look, note how the crimp side of the master is not a gold rivet and those look so good against the power coated links, what a great looking chain.. if the owner wants that look facing out he can get another master off EK and install it backwards or facing out .. that chain makes that bike look like a fine European bike.. bout time someone took the initiative to make a chain that not only performs but looks fantastic on that black Kawasaki Zed 900, WOW! this chain really performs cuz when its time to celan, it cleans up so much easier and look at the size of those link ends, and QX2 rings ... means more wear and tear and note how THICK those plates and links are.. holy smokes,a dn they have increased the diameter of the thru shafts..
I can easily run this 520 on my Hayabusa no issues at all, remember, a 520 vs a 530 is the same plate length, no difference there, the 53- is just wider than a 520 so there is more sprocket and barrel surface area giving you hopefully a little more wear out of the chain, the plates are not any thinner or longer so the strength is the same, having the larger diameter thru shafts the strength is a lot more than your stock 530 chain, so this EK Z 520 3D is actually stronger than the stock 530 chain.. my real savings is in the sprocket weight, now I can run a good hard anodized aluminum and cut down on rotating mass and we all know the benefit of that.. everywhere
also this is the SMOOTHEST chain i have EVER ran bar none, its simply amazing, sure you pay, but look what you get, its like paying $50 a more for tires, but the tires might have 1000 less miles on em, but the miles you do get are just so much better all the way around, safer, cuz grip = SAFETY or its like better brakes, yes they cost more, but look what you get.. its not one of those, well $1500 more for a termignoni hmm, is it worth it? these are real performance items you actually want, and I put the chain/sprox wright up there with wheels tires and brakes, cuz you cannot get the max out of either without a good smooth chain and sprox..
chain and sprox can effect transmission performance, so eliminating miss shifts for smoother shifting thank you may I have another.. tension is key, what you put on that master and slack of course.. just enough to crimp it no more, and this starts with how tight you put the plate on be careful let the rivet crimping push the plate on to its final destination ...some masters are coming with a spacer today so you cannot crimp too much and I highly recommend, crimp too much and the washers are too tight and the chain has a tight spot, not good cuz it wears sprox prematurely, keep this in mid, just enough to crimp no further, make a spacer if in doubt, when finished the link should be as loose as the rest, you can always go tighter but you cannot loosen, if you do get it too tight buy another and replace right away don't even ride on it
EK really needs serious props for this 3D chain it not only looks better than another chain out there, it performs better, and I don't care if I only get 4000 miles out of it, its a well enjoyed performing 4000 miles right? and I have the wheels off anyways for new tires right? 🙂
No disrespect but it looks like you mangled the rivet, it’s hard to tell without a close up but you don’t need to flare the rivet that much for it to work, in fact there is a tolerance and you can measure the width. That’s probably weakened because it’s been flared so much. Butchered!
you should always replace the sprockets with a new chain , not sure why this guy didn't .
lol an air compressor is pretty standard equipment in a garage, however bolt cutters are even more standard and easier than the "chain cutter" gimmick that you're probably sponsored to show off and use. Also where's the lube before connection of the links? This just seems like a rushed cut and edit video just to put out...
Lose the “music.”