I used to work with a young guy who taught himself hand-brushed painting. We were into railway preservation and his family owned several locomotives and other rolling stock. We were at the Doncaster Plant 150th Anniversary event with the steam loco 'Mayflower' which my pal had hand-painted and 'Flying Scotsman' s Chief Mechanical Engineer (Scotsman had been spray painted at the plant immediately prior to the event) came over to our group, shook the owner's hand and told us all what a beautiful engine we had. Proud moment indeed!
There is one product that I live by for priming and rust prevention - Flood's Penetrol - Goes on with a brush and creeps into everything - After each project I wipe the brush off on any tool that is going to be used outdoors - hammers, screwdrivers, wrenches etc.. This stuff is thinner than motor oil. I have a lamp post next to the Atlantic ocean that was primed with it 30 years ago - the anchor bolt nuts are just starting to show corrosion. You can also mix it in oil based topcoats to eliminate brush marks - works great on castings.
What a contrast I restore 70+ year old portable tube type and early transistorized radios, Keith restores heavy iron machinery but we both have the same goals keeping this old stuff going.
Keith, great project! Tip: for rusty machined wear surfaces, use fine steel shot instead of glass beads or sand. Shot won't embed, actually harden the surface, and retain oil similar to a scraped surface.
Well, NEVER sandblast mating or sliding surfaces with anything. That the quickest way to ruin them. We see this on eBay where some guy out to make a fast buck, blasts every surface of a part, trying to make it look better, requiring that part to be ground, and sometimes scraped to bring it back to usability.
So many people think sandblasting will destroy some parts. I sandblast almost every part in my machine restorations. Several decades ago I even sandblasted a ball bearing (in my drill press) and the press is still running fine and quiet; key is to clean well afterwards. Parts that don't get painted will then be either wire-wheeled or sanded/ground to restore a bright surface. For painted parts, it's hard to beat the way sandblasting preps a surface for adhesion. And when it comes to painting, it's hard to beat powder coating. Ready to assemble a lot quicker than evaporative paints (even faster than two-part paints) and has excellent gloss & smoothness. Only downsides are it's virtually impossible to touch-up (nothing "sticks" to it) and you can't coat anything that can't survive a 400 deg F oven (like motor windings). Nevertheless, my machines come out looking excellent and are quite durable.
Keith.... when using a rattle can sprey paint stuff, when your done turn the can upside down and sprey till the paint stops and it's just gas coming out, that way the nozzel won't clog and you can use the rest in the can later... also set the can on it's top, not it's bottom when storing a sprey can of paint ! .... MAKES A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE WHEN SHAKING THE CAN if it's been stored upside down, mixes much faster....but always shake a can for at least 3 minutes no less ! thought you might could use that information ! ...
Really enjoying this series Keith! I appreciate this historical aspect that you provide and the explanations of why or why not you do something! Looking forward to the next one!
Wild man Keith painting indoors with no respirator! Hopefully enough space and moving air in there..:You are a national treasure Keith. We need you in good health!
ALWAYS when you're painting with solvent or epoxy based paint wear a respirator. Even if you're using a paint booth (which Keith wasn't) or painting outside (which Keith wasn't) wear a respirator. I wear a respirator when I'm using acrylic (water based) paint because it's a good idea.
I've rebuilt many cooling tower gearboxes and i believe the coating they use is coal tar epoxy. Its some knarly stuff when your trying to remove it even sandblasting doesn't always work. its very resistant to constant water splash.
I had carpal/cubital tunnel surgery, both whrist and elbows. The results were great, and it let me work another 30 years. I hope it works as well for you.
Keith, since you use so many rattle cans in your restorations, I thought I'd mention recently watching a video where a guy built a rattle can shaker that fir into his drill motor's chuck. He used a 3-inch (~75-mm) plumbing pipe test plug, modified with a longer screw/bolt so it could be held in the drill motor's chuck. He also had about a 12-inch (~300-mm) long piece of drain pipe that the test plug was expanded into the end of. The pipe is large enough for pretty much any rattle can and in about a minute did the shaking equal to the 5-minutes the can says to do by hand. The guy said his rattle cans painted better after that than ever before, so you might want to try it -- it should cost $10-$20 worth of materials and ought to last forever, I think.
That black on the surface is a filler made at the factory with the filings from the grinders.(guessing) My old molder friend said they would mix this up with some kind of binder and slather it on castings with their hands. He said the metal filings would heat up as they worked it. I have made the big mistake of sandblasting this off on my first hit and miss restoration. Bondo (et al ) will come right off after a few freeze and thaw cycles because it does not have the same coefficient of expansion as the casting as does the metal filler. He did not know what the binding was.I think he called the filler something like "thermite". Love your work on this beast!
can't wait to see this in action. I've seen old 1800s catalogues and wondered what happened to all those interesting machines, glad that some have survived
The black material you mention reminds me of "japanning" (asphalt, linseed oil, rosin & turpentine) that was used on cast iron woodworking tools such as Stanley planes.
I’m not arguing with the methodology Keith uses, but just some info on priming. There are several reasons for it. One, for metal is to help prevent rust. On wood, to prevent rot. A second reason is because without the tints used in paints, which are often the most expensive part of the paint, you can lay down more layers for protection using the cheaper primer. So it’s a cost saving method as well. And yes, lastly, some primers are sandable, though not all. For machines, there exists a thick primer that can be applied in layers that will fill small dents and pits, allowing you to sand off an amount to conceal them without having to fill them with something, which is a time expensive method, which minimizing, is a goal. This can also allow those extra smooth surfaces to paint for high gloss. Though you need to sand the numerous paint layers to get that top level look.
I think your painting theory is right on par Its like manufacturing welding desirability which may not look perfect but is functional its about getting it done
More Evaporust success- I will try that next time! The no-primer approach , especially on cast iron tool frames, makes a lot of sense. Surfaces that are prepped properly and stay indoors and undisturbed should do fine without primer. And if a tool surface is being abraded during use, primer will likely be scraped off as easily as paint.
Heal quickly and be well. With carpal and cubital tunnel combined, be sure they have ruled out cervical radiculopathy (neck nerve roots) as a cause. Been there, done all of that (surgeries)... Take care of yourself.
A product you might be interested in I have used for years in the restoration of old metal is Rust-Fix by Dupli-Color. It might be useful to you in some applications. Looking good so far, looking forward to the Babbit pour.
The gravestone industry uses a self adhesive rubber sheet to protect the polished stone surfaces while they sandblast the lettering and artwork. I have used it to protect machined surfaces during bead blasting procedures. Check it out for future reference.
I know my comment is way to late, but for another project, there are outfits that come to your house and blast your "insert object" with glass grit and water (recycled glass bottles) towards the end, and for rinsing they add a rust preventer to the water, which works real well (leaving only the faintest layer of flash rust) when the yard is dry, you just sweep of the glass grit, and you are done.
So no negativity intended here but when talking about items that use to be painted by brush I think it is important to remember that paints now may be superior in many ways but one thing the old time paint had was being lead based which gave it the property of much better flow and smoothness when applied by brush. From my understanding that is one thing you don’t get today…. But you have spray application that takes care of that issue. Again just wanted to add a thought to the conversation.
POR15 isocyanate primer has an excellent flow out property . Brush application always looks as though it was sprayed. Plus it results in a completely pore free film that eliminates rust.
Very nice work K.R. I noticed that you had one of those parts clamped in a huge Wilton vise.. I think that was the largest Wilton's that I've seen..What size was that vise? Keith, again very nice work and I'm sure J.D. will be very happy with the saw when it's done...
Had you looked into electrolysis for rust removal? Takes a little time, but you just put it in the tank and forget it for a day or two. Used to restore tractors and in my opinion, electrolysis was much better than blasting. Removes paint, rust, old grease, etc.
Hi Keith, Detroit Diesel engine green looks to me to be a close match for the green that was on the band saw. It's not a color that a lot of people think of so I thought I'd mention it. I'm not much of a fan of painting machinery black, preferring something in the green or gray scale. Thanks for the video! -mike
I think the amount of prep work that goes into your paint job depends on the machine you're restoring. If it's a high quality, post WW2 american machine tool from Monarch or some other respected company it deserves the full treatment. They put a lot of effort into the look of their products and if you want to call it a restoration you shoud treat them accordingly. On older machines from like 1890 it's a different thing, paints were mostly based ond stand or lindseed oil. There was a discussion on the old filler materials somewhere on Practical Machinist. Keep up the great work !
I worked on Newspaper presses and around them for 45 years. I painted them with an epoxy based paint. Even after daily use, never saw any wear on the press after 40 years. Daily cleaning a rubbing with strong petroleum products (late 60's). Inks are fun to get off at times. They are not cheap , but it will be the last paint job you'll do. They are probably cheaper now, haven't priced them in years.
since you are missing a few cast parts on the second bandsaw.. are you going to figure out how to duplicate them for that one.. even if you just send the castings for rough copy.. or get in your wood shop and make up some quick patterns.. or if its the bearing housings.. throw a big block of wood on a lathe and make the tubular section and then carve the bolt bosses on the band saw then split it. heck. use the shop vacuum and a plastic bag to vacuum out a trash bag and take a plaster pattern off it. . pull it out and pull a positive plug out of that..
Carpal Tunnel cure... Just an FYI. About 30 years ago a pediatric surgeon from Silicone Valley discovered the main cause of CTS was computer monitors were set too low. The bottom of the monitor should be even with you chin. She eliminated over 90% of the need for surgery. The actual causation was the persistent bending of the neck. Set a 30 minute timer. and look for traffic left and right, then count your toes and check the ceiling for spiders.
IMO functional friction surfaces are the important part.... The body structure on a machine just needs to be protected from rust, and smooth enough to be easily cleaned.... :) Good work as always! :D
How far are you going with the wheels? Maybe send them to Engles coach shop in Montana, he builds and refurbished wood wagon wheels. May be the guy if they need major work.
Fit for purpose rather than OCD is the name of the game when restoring things, as that is how they were originally made. They were machines made to be used in nasty, dirty, harsh environments, not meant for display in lounge rooms!
Keith. In australia i use a product called "dry coat".spray on metal and it prevents flash rust for months.to me.a restoration is.as it came from the manufacturer. With all its imperfections. Thats a true restoration.
Could the black "filler" be Japanning? That would go along with your "tar like" observation. Also, I'd like it if that hand wheel had it's outside rim polished to a high shine. I think that may even be accurate for the application.
Burnished rim looks good on often used handwheels like feeds of machines because they are nickel-plated and you are constantly burnishing it with your hands. On seldom used wheels even nickel becomes dull, and cast iron will not take high burnish. Also all these flashes may be rather dangerous in the workshop.
I like green also, just seems right somehow. Maybe a little darker than Keith’s shirt. If it was mine I’d probably paint it two coats with a brush. Get a gallon of high gloss oil based, thin it down so it flows well and watch that big boy come to life. Most brush on paints are too thick from the can and need a little mineral spirits to flow well.
Keith, my memory is going, I seem to forget more than I remember these days. I don't remember seeing you bring in that nice old darker lathe with what looks like an overhead drive. Whatcha got there? Looks restored already. Seems like you are healing well.
I'd like to know what that filler is. Last year I restored an old German horizontal mill that had a lot of it under the paint. I tried not to remove any of it, but some was peeling off or damaged and I had to use Bondo. Bondo does not like to stick to it (at least in my case)! The black stuff was slightly gritty, and had no smell when heated. It softened a little with heat, but didn't become "reusable". I tried because I was hoping to not use any Bondo.
Wasn't the body filler (black color) under the area with the sticker/label? Maybe they tore off the original label and then filled it before applying the new company merger label.
Hi Keith, I hope you are well, would the black stuff be "Pitch" as it was used a lot over here in the UK for exactly what you have come across, heater it up to a liquid and smooth it on when it's cold it sets like concrete and you can sand it and chisel it. Thanks for the video, The evaporust looks to do a good job, all I've got to do now is find out what keylation is ? Regards to all Richard 🇬🇧
@@D989501L And I think the stuff that Keith has to wipe off at the end of the process is the carbon that was in the iron and isn't removed by the chelation.
The 'filler' material, could it be Japaning? The ingredients include powdered asphalt and turpentine. With heat, it melts into a very smooth, durable finish. Pretty common on 19th century storage tins and tools.
![6ix9ine - El Preso (feat. Lenier) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RQvGgosdeO8/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the video, hope you are doing well with the surgery!
HI, Mr Rucker. You are the shop class I didn't get. Thanks.
Keith!! thank you!!!
Jimmy, how about painting it purple? 😆
@@Sodabowski I like Grabber Green, but Joker Purple would be cool too.
Must be Diresta white with the black Diresta logo, cannot be other way
One of my favorite channels I never miss a video here.
Great project.
I used to work with a young guy who taught himself hand-brushed painting. We were into railway preservation and his family owned several locomotives and other rolling stock. We were at the Doncaster Plant 150th Anniversary event with the steam loco 'Mayflower' which my pal had hand-painted and 'Flying Scotsman' s Chief Mechanical Engineer (Scotsman had been spray painted at the plant immediately prior to the event) came over to our group, shook the owner's hand and told us all what a beautiful engine we had. Proud moment indeed!
I enjoy watching you work. Very thorough and methodical as you work your way, seemingly effortlessly, through the project. Thank you.
There is one product that I live by for priming and rust prevention - Flood's Penetrol - Goes on with a brush and creeps into everything - After each project I wipe the brush off on any tool that is going to be used outdoors - hammers, screwdrivers, wrenches etc.. This stuff is thinner than motor oil. I have a lamp post next to the Atlantic ocean that was primed with it 30 years ago - the anchor bolt nuts are just starting to show corrosion. You can also mix it in oil based topcoats to eliminate brush marks - works great on castings.
What a contrast I restore 70+ year old portable tube type and early transistorized radios, Keith restores heavy iron machinery but we both have the same goals keeping this old stuff going.
good job keith
Nice work! as usual!
Looking good, and I'm looking forward to seeing how this big boy toy turns out
It's coming along nicely! Enjoy watching the machines come back to life!
Keith, great project! Tip: for rusty machined wear surfaces, use fine steel shot instead of glass beads or sand. Shot won't embed, actually harden the surface, and retain oil similar to a scraped surface.
Great tip there, thanks man.
Well, NEVER sandblast mating or sliding surfaces with anything. That the quickest way to ruin them. We see this on eBay where some guy out to make a fast buck, blasts every surface of a part, trying to make it look better, requiring that part to be ground, and sometimes scraped to bring it back to usability.
It's always fun and interesting to watch your videos. I'll never restore vintage machinery but it is a learning experience to watch you do it.
Looks fantastic as usual! Fun to watch
So many people think sandblasting will destroy some parts. I sandblast almost every part in my machine restorations. Several decades ago I even sandblasted a ball bearing (in my drill press) and the press is still running fine and quiet; key is to clean well afterwards. Parts that don't get painted will then be either wire-wheeled or sanded/ground to restore a bright surface. For painted parts, it's hard to beat the way sandblasting preps a surface for adhesion.
And when it comes to painting, it's hard to beat powder coating. Ready to assemble a lot quicker than evaporative paints (even faster than two-part paints) and has excellent gloss & smoothness. Only downsides are it's virtually impossible to touch-up (nothing "sticks" to it) and you can't coat anything that can't survive a 400 deg F oven (like motor windings). Nevertheless, my machines come out looking excellent and are quite durable.
Keith.... when using a rattle can sprey paint stuff, when your done turn the can upside down and sprey till the paint stops and it's just gas coming out, that way the nozzel won't clog and you can use the rest in the can later... also set the can on it's top, not it's bottom when storing a sprey can of paint ! .... MAKES A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE WHEN SHAKING THE CAN if it's been stored upside down, mixes much faster....but always shake a can for at least 3 minutes no less ! thought you might could use that information ! ...
Keith, I had tunnel surgery on the palm of my hand for my left middle finger. It heals fast. You are doing the right things. Stay Strong!
Man that Wilton vise in the background sure is a beauty!
nice i like the diresta white
Really enjoying this series Keith! I appreciate this historical aspect that you provide and the explanations of why or why not you do something! Looking forward to the next one!
Great video looking forward to next episode. I can see a masterpiece in the making.
Wild man Keith painting indoors with no respirator! Hopefully enough space and moving air in there..:You are a national treasure Keith. We need you in good health!
ALWAYS when you're painting with solvent or epoxy based paint wear a respirator. Even if you're using a paint booth (which Keith wasn't) or painting outside (which Keith wasn't) wear a respirator. I wear a respirator when I'm using acrylic (water based) paint because it's a good idea.
Hiya Keith
Great video Keith, keep'um coming..
Am Happy to see your assembly 😊😊😊👍
Agree with what you said about priming casting. Thanks for the video.
I've rebuilt many cooling tower gearboxes and i believe the coating they use is coal tar epoxy. Its some knarly stuff when your trying to remove it even sandblasting doesn't always work. its very resistant to constant water splash.
I don't think there were any epoxy products available when this saw was build :-)
Your Evaporust bit is the most impressive rust removal demo I've ever seen. I'm now a believer. Thank you.
I think he has a video just on that product. It's very impressive.
I had carpal/cubital tunnel surgery, both whrist and elbows. The results were great, and it let me work another 30 years. I hope it works as well for you.
Hope all goes well with that surgery and recovery!
fine job as usual keith
PET THE CATS AND DOGS FOR ME, GREAT VIDEO, GREAT JOB...
Keith, since you use so many rattle cans in your restorations, I thought I'd mention recently watching a video where a guy built a rattle can shaker that fir into his drill motor's chuck. He used a 3-inch (~75-mm) plumbing pipe test plug, modified with a longer screw/bolt so it could be held in the drill motor's chuck. He also had about a 12-inch (~300-mm) long piece of drain pipe that the test plug was expanded into the end of. The pipe is large enough for pretty much any rattle can and in about a minute did the shaking equal to the 5-minutes the can says to do by hand. The guy said his rattle cans painted better after that than ever before, so you might want to try it -- it should cost $10-$20 worth of materials and ought to last forever, I think.
Really enjoy the restoration videos!
That black on the surface is a filler made at the factory with the filings from the grinders.(guessing) My old molder friend said they would mix this up with some kind of binder and slather it on castings with their hands. He said the metal filings would heat up as they worked it. I have made the big mistake of sandblasting this off on my first hit and miss restoration. Bondo (et al ) will come right off after a few freeze and thaw cycles because it does not have the same coefficient of expansion as the casting as does the metal filler. He did not know what the binding was.I think he called the filler something like "thermite". Love your work on this beast!
can't wait to see this in action. I've seen old 1800s catalogues and wondered what happened to all those interesting machines, glad that some have survived
At Dodge, we used both spray guns and diptanks for painting castings. The dip tanks were used for larger quantities of smaller castings.
this is why apprentices were invented
As you like it, I'm in agreement with that procedure. Thanks for the look.
Pleased to come over from Jimmy’s channel to follow along and look back in the archives for great content.
The black material you mention reminds me of "japanning" (asphalt, linseed oil, rosin & turpentine) that was used on cast iron woodworking tools such as Stanley planes.
I suggest sending the wheels to Engel's Coach Shop in Joliet, Montana. A fabulous wheelwright with a great RUclips channel.
Looking good,👍👍👍👍
I’m not arguing with the methodology Keith uses, but just some info on priming. There are several reasons for it. One, for metal is to help prevent rust. On wood, to prevent rot. A second reason is because without the tints used in paints, which are often the most expensive part of the paint, you can lay down more layers for protection using the cheaper primer. So it’s a cost saving method as well. And yes, lastly, some primers are sandable, though not all. For machines, there exists a thick primer that can be applied in layers that will fill small dents and pits, allowing you to sand off an amount to conceal them without having to fill them with something, which is a time expensive method, which minimizing, is a goal. This can also allow those extra smooth surfaces to paint for high gloss. Though you need to sand the numerous paint layers to get that top level look.
I think your painting theory is right on par
Its like manufacturing welding desirability which may not look perfect but is functional its about getting it done
More Evaporust success- I will try that next time! The no-primer approach , especially on cast iron tool frames, makes a lot of sense. Surfaces that are prepped properly and stay indoors and undisturbed should do fine without primer. And if a tool surface is being abraded during use, primer will likely be scraped off as easily as paint.
Thanks Keith always something interesting to watch on your channel well worth subscribing too...
Heal quickly and be well. With carpal and cubital tunnel combined, be sure they have ruled out cervical radiculopathy (neck nerve roots) as a cause. Been there, done all of that (surgeries)... Take care of yourself.
Thanks for sharing 👍
CRC Industries should sponsor some of your videos considering how many people probably bought Evaporust because of them.
A product you might be interested in I have used for years in the restoration of old metal is Rust-Fix by Dupli-Color. It might be useful to you in some applications. Looking good so far, looking forward to the Babbit pour.
You might check with engals coach works in Montana? for the wooden spoke wheel restoration?
slick finish is easier tp clean wipe down ur right mechanics is most important
Keith, when I hear the word babbitt, I think of the cartoon spoof of an Abbot and Costello act. Babbitt, Babbitt, hey Babbittttttt.
Pura vida keith great job .in my opinion I prefer keep the original paint but thats only my opinion
Great
Thank you for sharing. If anyone complains about the paint job then there just to dam close. LOL
As has been said; it looks alright from my house.
The gravestone industry uses a self adhesive rubber sheet to protect the polished stone surfaces while they sandblast the lettering and artwork. I have used it to protect machined surfaces during bead blasting procedures. Check it out for future reference.
I know my comment is way to late, but for another project, there are outfits that come to your house and blast your "insert object" with glass grit and water (recycled glass bottles) towards the end, and for rinsing they add a rust preventer to the water, which works real well (leaving only the faintest layer of flash rust) when the yard is dry, you just sweep of the glass grit, and you are done.
Another entertaining video
So no negativity intended here but when talking about items that use to be painted by brush I think it is important to remember that paints now may be superior in many ways but one thing the old time paint had was being lead based which gave it the property of much better flow and smoothness when applied by brush. From my understanding that is one thing you don’t get today…. But you have spray application that takes care of that issue. Again just wanted to add a thought to the conversation.
POR15 isocyanate primer has an excellent flow out property . Brush application always looks as though it was sprayed.
Plus it results in a completely pore free film that eliminates rust.
Black japanning ?
The old timers at My apprenticeship used Shellac mixed with plaster of Paris Small batches was the secret ! They tinted using lamp black
I have painted cast iron castings with no primer, no issues at all as long as the paint layers are well cured in between coats.
Very nice work K.R. I noticed that you had one of those parts clamped in a huge Wilton vise.. I think that was the largest Wilton's that I've seen..What size was that vise? Keith, again very nice work and I'm sure J.D. will be very happy with the saw when it's done...
Had you looked into electrolysis for rust removal? Takes a little time, but you just put it in the tank and forget it for a day or two. Used to restore tractors and in my opinion, electrolysis was much better than blasting. Removes paint, rust, old grease, etc.
I think you need to take a lesson on sand blasting prep from Eric over at Hand Tool Rescue...LOL Great work!!!
Hi Keith,
Detroit Diesel engine green looks to me to be a close match for the green that was on the band saw. It's not a color that a lot of people think of so I thought I'd mention it. I'm not much of a fan of painting machinery black, preferring something in the green or gray scale. Thanks for the video!
-mike
The primer protects the metal. The topcoat protects the primer.
I think the amount of prep work that goes into your paint job depends on the machine you're restoring. If it's a high quality, post WW2 american machine tool from Monarch or some other respected company it deserves the full treatment. They put a lot of effort into the look of their products and if you want to call it a restoration you shoud treat them accordingly. On older machines from like 1890 it's a different thing, paints were mostly based ond stand or lindseed oil. There was a discussion on the old filler materials somewhere on Practical Machinist. Keep up the great work !
I worked on Newspaper presses and around them for 45 years. I painted them with an epoxy based paint. Even after daily use, never saw any wear on the press after 40 years. Daily cleaning a rubbing with strong petroleum products (late 60's). Inks are fun to get off at times.
They are not cheap , but it will be the last paint job you'll do. They are probably cheaper now, haven't priced them in years.
How's the testicular cancer ?
since you are missing a few cast parts on the second bandsaw.. are you going to figure out how to duplicate them for that one.. even if you just send the castings for rough copy.. or get in your wood shop and make up some quick patterns.. or if its the bearing housings.. throw a big block of wood on a lathe and make the tubular section and then carve the bolt bosses on the band saw then split it. heck. use the shop vacuum and a plastic bag to vacuum out a trash bag and take a plaster pattern off it. . pull it out and pull a positive plug out of that..
Carpal Tunnel cure... Just an FYI. About 30 years ago a pediatric surgeon from Silicone Valley discovered the main cause of CTS was computer monitors were set too low. The bottom of the monitor should be even with you chin. She eliminated over 90% of the need for surgery. The actual causation was the persistent bending of the neck. Set a 30 minute timer. and look for traffic left and right, then count your toes and check the ceiling for spiders.
IMO functional friction surfaces are the important part.... The body structure on a machine just needs to be protected from rust, and smooth enough to be easily cleaned.... :) Good work as always! :D
How far are you going with the wheels? Maybe send them to Engles coach shop in Montana, he builds and refurbished wood wagon wheels. May be the guy if they need major work.
Fit for purpose rather than OCD is the name of the game when restoring things, as that is how they were originally made. They were machines made to be used in nasty, dirty, harsh environments, not meant for display in lounge rooms!
Keith. In australia i use a product called "dry coat".spray on metal and it prevents flash rust for months.to me.a restoration is.as it came from the manufacturer. With all its imperfections.
Thats a true restoration.
I use Metalprep acid mix to clean metal before painting.
Even without paint, it takes longer to rust after the treatment.
Form follows function. Iffn it don’t go, chrome it. First quote timeless- 2nd 1965?
Some model "T's" were painted with a brush...
Could the black "filler" be Japanning? That would go along with your "tar like" observation.
Also, I'd like it if that hand wheel had it's outside rim polished to a high shine. I think that may even be accurate for the application.
I was thinking that on the handle too,might be a nice detail either way.
Maybe pitch?
@@stoflom Japanning is basically pitch cut with turpentine so it can be spread, and then baked in an oven to drive of the turpentine and harden it.
Or coal tar.
Coal tar epoxy is popular to TRY to keep steel from rusting.
Burnished rim looks good on often used handwheels like feeds of machines because they are nickel-plated and you are constantly burnishing it with your hands. On seldom used wheels even nickel becomes dull, and cast iron will not take high burnish. Also all these flashes may be rather dangerous in the workshop.
I looked at the shade of green on your t-shirt and thought that would be a great colour to paint it.
I like green also, just seems right somehow. Maybe a little darker than Keith’s shirt. If it was mine I’d probably paint it two coats with a brush. Get a gallon of high gloss oil based, thin it down so it flows well and watch that big boy come to life. Most brush on paints are too thick from the can and need a little mineral spirits to flow well.
Keith, my memory is going, I seem to forget more than I remember these days. I don't remember seeing you bring in that nice old darker lathe with what looks like an overhead drive. Whatcha got there? Looks restored already.
Seems like you are healing well.
I think if I remember rightly that machine is a copy lathe, I don’t remember what video it was that he talked about it in though.
@@Venge94 ahhhh yea, thanks. I remember now. thanks for hitting me on the side of the head.. it worked.
Keith, how about a HAMMER GRAY paint on your Band Saw...
I'd like to know what that filler is. Last year I restored an old German horizontal mill that had a lot of it under the paint. I tried not to remove any of it, but some was peeling off or damaged and I had to use Bondo. Bondo does not like to stick to it (at least in my case)! The black stuff was slightly gritty, and had no smell when heated. It softened a little with heat, but didn't become "reusable". I tried because I was hoping to not use any Bondo.
Been following this thread since the beginning, looking forward to the finished product. Thanks
More please
Ought to paint it the same color as the lathe in the background when you showed the results of the bead blasting on the parts.
Keith, I'm curious about precautions you take concerning lead in the paint.
Wasn't the body filler (black color) under the area with the sticker/label? Maybe they tore off the original label and then filled it before applying the new company merger label.
Ready to see what color is decided ,hopefully not black,sure it will look good anyway.
Is that A Philmont Scout Ranch belt I see???
Use walnut shells on the machine surfaces, it cleans up just fine.
You have primed. Will the Babbit cause any issues with the primer? Really enjoy your vids. Jim Bell (Australia)
Might be "japanning" , Hand tool rescue has a formula that he uses.
Thanks for sharing! Japan paint?
Hi Keith, I hope you are well, would the black stuff be "Pitch" as it was used a lot over here in the UK for exactly what you have come across, heater it up to a liquid and smooth it on when it's cold it sets like concrete and you can sand it and chisel it.
Thanks for the video, The evaporust looks to do a good job, all I've got to do now is find out what keylation is ?
Regards to all Richard 🇬🇧
chelation is where the chemicals in the liquid ‘wrap around’ and remove the salts etc that cause the rust.
Chelation en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chelation
@@davidmam Thanks David, it seems to work well.
Regards Richard uk
@@D989501L And I think the stuff that Keith has to wipe off at the end of the process is the carbon that was in the iron and isn't removed by the chelation.
The 'filler' material, could it be Japaning? The ingredients include powdered asphalt and turpentine. With heat, it melts into a very smooth, durable finish. Pretty common on 19th century storage tins and tools.