i agree but sometimes riding my track bike on the streets is a blast. has 100mm carbon wheels, tubs at 10bar. never gets old. if you want, here is my bike: www.pedalroom.com/bike/ridley-arena-alu-43246
Hi-mid range frame paired with practical components like formula and tectro. I set up my big block like this and have kept it fresh by gradually adding bling. Seven years later and it’s still as much fun as day one. (Game changer: specialized power saddle.)
I went the expensive components and cheap frame: 6KU with 75s, Chris King, Super toughness, etc. just upgraded to a BB17 Transfer Lo Pro, couldn’t be happier
Another interesting question is, at what price point is a steel frame optimized functionally? $600-700? Let’s remove aesthetics out of consideration, because a beautiful custom frame with tasteful lugs or fillet brazing, a stellar paint job and internal routing can be worth $2000 and up (rightfully so) but is is functionally better then a $600 TIG welded frame set? My guess is no. In this question, let’s also take standard 4130 double butted tubing, and not consider fancier tubing.
in europe i often find high quality frames at good prices, second hand, discounted older models, etc. you don't get that with components. so i focus more on components in terms of budget.
I have a Paké Rum Runner frameset which is made with Tange CrMo steel with track geometry, I think I only paid $250 for it. I've been upgrading parts on it ever since I got it and it's been a great platform to build on for a good price
Be patient and Buy Used. I found a super deal (less than half your budget) on a like new Langster. It even has an aluminum frame and carbon fork! There was enough budget left for a pair of Wabi sub-15's, which made a huge difference.
Thanks, Zach! This was WAY more in depth than I expected. I got my single speed Lotus rideable yesterday, and I kinda hate it. New Wheels and chain reveal how crappy this frame is. Back to the drawing board!
You can get quality road bike with an crit (aggressive geometry, similar to track) with quality tubing for a steal in most markets. Tires can have as much affect on ride quality as wheelset or even tubing. Geometry, and fit are also very important.
In my opinion you should always go for a high end frame with nice tubing. Components can be easily swapped and starting with some 2nd hand medium quality components it's not a bad idea at all. On top of that, you'll have to change components frequently anyway as they wear out with time
@@BrunodeSouzaLino if it's my only bike and I'm planning for a long term ownership, yes. If the case would be to build an everyday beater bike maybe not
@@arboldechorizos Higher price doesn't always equal quality. In fact, many of the higher end bike parts are made with weight savings, not reliability, in mind.
Real talk, I'm of the "buy cheap bike with good frame quality and upgrade components" camp. My friends hate me for it, mostly because they say it'll cost me more in the long run. Being that I assemble and build my own bikes, I can scope out quality components fairly cheap with no labor overhead. Just upgraded my Takara Yuugen from stock with some new bars, stem, wheels, tires, pedals and working on the brakes. The bike costs 200 and the total cost for new parts has been ~400. for that though, I have a fixie that absolutely beasts and shiny components to upgrade to a better frame when ready.
I struggle to find these price points when also trying to support the local bike shops. Gotta compromise somewhere or have deep pockets. It just isn't realistic where I'm at. Pandemic has also inflated costs too since everyone realized biking kicks ass.
Pricepoint will yield a little less in terms of part pricing because some money has to go to labor but having the bikeshop help with part picking can make up for it when you realize those tires you'd never heard about or the handlebars you never considered feel great to ride.
@@charlesm.8807 Nice. Yeah man I have b17 and c17 they are totally different style of saddles. But find them equally comfy. Never regretted getting my brooks saddles.
@@Towelie4200 I have two bikes and they both have different geometry. I prefer the C17 with a more aggressive geometry. And the b17 for a more relaxed position.
In my area, it’s definitely easier to find a deal on a nice used frame than it is to find good used parts, but there’s not really a strong fixie community here. So I would think here you could focus most of the budget on components.
On most bikes a good place to save is on the headset - a basic tange for 10-25 USD is more than enough unless you're really abusing the bike. The headset is one of the least important bearings, and you'll notice the effects of cheap pedal bearings or an uncomfortable contact point more.
You should consider buying a second hand frameset. Here in Europe, that's very easy. I got a german custom built frame made of Cinelli SLX tubing for 100€ including a campagnolo bottom bracket in very good condition. You can find a lot of these here :)
This is higher that your video's budget, but I spent £250 on a Dolan pre cursa frame and the parts added up to around £900 in parts (fizik finishing kit, sram omniums, alpina a6t tubulars). I couldn't think of a better use of money when track bikes are concerned.
this. well said Zach, the best use of money is to invest in something you will and want to use. over the years of upgrades i have done to my bikes the ones that made the most impact were cockpit and tires..comfort is the only way to keep you wanting to ride. luckily i found a saddle i liked early on and it was cheap to i got a couple of them so each bike was able to start life with my bottom happy. then it was stem and bars and some good tires. all my frames are enjoyable to ride, no matter the difference in materials, as a result.
I have a Fabricbike Light frame set for €350 and components for €900. The bike fits like a glove and I don't feel like that the frame is bad. O.K. the frame is not so stiff as a 2000$ frame but its ok. I have a lot of high priced bikes but this is definitely my favorite bike. Greetings from Germany.
Hi Zack! I have the option to get a custom build frameset made to measure BUT made from hi-ten steel. Should I go that way or wait until i get a mass produced chromo that it's not for my body?
I got a 54$usd celt frame and fork philippine brand and its made of high tensile steel it has a really nice coat and is really light most of the riders here use it and the quality is well above the price
Zach: *never experiences daily life with an alloy frame or carbon forks.* Still Zach:"guys I just wanna put out there alloy frames and carbon forks are unreliable"
Considering the fact that I have competitors on Carbon bikes in the Junior Elite Category, I think it's fairly justified to Ride an alloy bike with 50mm Carbon wheels. Though I don't think you can beat me even if I use my commuter bike which is, well, rusty.
Every day I'm terrified that the aluminum mountain bike I sold to a friend will spli in half from the stress of being locked up to a bike rack, despite me previously crashing it in a rock garden and it coming away unscathed. You really can't trust aluminum or carbon. That's why every pro rides a downhill mountain bike made of steel...
I have been a subscriber for a while now. Here's a thought! How about working and saving up until you have enough money and buy a top quality bike that will last you a lifetime, that you will love and that you will enjoy. Shocking concept, I know.
Hmm I'm a roadie, but generally I would buy a super nice frame, then upgrade parts as desired. A heavy frame would limit weight shedding, not be as stiff, or as agile
Hmm I disagree on the alloy/carbon. My Landyachtz Blade was $485 in USD for an aluminum frame with nicely designed dropouts and a great carbon fork and headset.
Recently been curious if a chain tensioner could be used to make a frame set without sliding dropouts a viable fixie candidate? It works with single speed but if it worked with fixed gear riding that could open up frame options quite a bit.
Tensioners works similar to derailleurs, they pull the chain to be strung between cog and cranks only in upper part; if you'll try to skid or put any back force on pedalls the tensioner will bend flat with nothing to tension chain on the upper part of the drivetrain; it will get loose leading to chain skipping tooths on cog or falling from it entirelly. On single speed convertions freewheel doesn't let you to aply enough back force to bend tensioner flat.
Do you think this is better then buying a complete build? What about for someone that isn’t able to build a bike? And can’t have a shop do it because they need to order it online? Seems like understanding the measurement and comfort are key. Glad you love yours. I didn’t that with my current bike over the years upgrading parts. It definitely helped and was a very cheap frame/complete build.
@@deerinheadlights9784 I didn't know what I was doing, RUclips helped me so much, if you're going to buy a complete, buy a higher spec one, cheap completes can be catastrophic
Steven Grindey thanks! Do you have any recommendations for brands for compete builds? I’m not able to do a complete build because of health related (and time) reasons. Down the road I’d like to possibly do that when I’m able. Glad you were able to have that experience.
I took the cheap frame, quality components route when initially built my bike 8 years ago. Couldn’t be happier. Leader 722ts + custom powdercoated fork, average track wheelset, Omniums, King (headset from the parts bin), some Cinelli/Mash bits, Laminated double straps (Cadence), GR9’s and some good rubber. Cost was $780-ish and it’s been absolutely bombproof. I’ve never gotten a flat (it was a commuter bike for a while but I religiously keep pressure topped off) and never had a single issue with ANY components. People, if you have budget constraints there is only one GOOD option for you: Cheap frame + quality parts = The Move Go the opposite route and I can basically assure you that at the end of the day your fancy frame will feel awful with your mushy cranks, ill fitting saddle and your boat anchor of a wheelset on skinny tires. As a bit of an aside, Leader may be a shitty company, I mean, they really screwed folks over, however, I’d be hard pressed to speak poorly of that frame. It’s been stellar, especially so for the price. That is all.
Find a local bike co-op and visit regularly to keep tabs on what frames and components come through. Be patient and don't settle for mediocrity. If you put the time in you'll eventually find quality gear and pay far less than retail or even wholesale prices. Build your own bikes!
Yes. Butted tubbing (regadless of material) is slightly heavier, since it's thicker on either end and thinner in the middle, as opposed to being the same thickness for the whole length. It's also more expensive.
charge spoon changed my life. I can ride 5 hours without padded shorts with no negative side effects. All I need are soft drawz and maybe some chamois cream
@BeboSaab I'm sure it's not the best seat for me. But it was a huge improvement over the stock saddle that came with the bike. The stock saddle gave me immediate pain.
Yes yes yes a lot of great comments but, lets get down to the real and most important question Zach! What is the fastest you have gone on a fixed gear buddy?
I’m not sure the premise here is that sound. Custom builds cost more than complete bikes. Period. At $1000, it is far better to buy a complete bike and upgrade as you go along. You get far better bang for your buck, and as you learn what you like, you can adjust accordingly. Bike companies have economies of scale individuals just don’t have. This rule works for geared and non-geared bikes. $1000 is a lot of money. But it’s not a lot when you buy every bolt separately. Trust me; I know. That’s why my latest gravel build (geared, thank you) ran about $6k. But the best $100 you can spend is on a Brooks. No contest.
Agree, completes get you more bike for the money. Upgrades can be made later when you identify needs. Bikefit is critical and can make a good saddle uncomfortable. I bought a Cinelli Crest saddle for my road bike and it works wonderfully. My Aventon now has one. Tires make about as much difference as the frame material. Quality steel rides smoother but always felt too flexible under hard effort. Aluminum never lets you forget the frame material choice. Aluminum frames surge forward with hard effort. Nobody in their right mind would ride a true track bike on the road with disk wheels and tubular tires. The bikes we ride are a compromise of price, performance, and practicality.
@@derman3658 Not a 15,000 to 25,000 dollar professional model for international competition! They are at the UCI minimum weight and stiffer than anything on the road. They don't have bumps on the track.
Assuming a set of good tires cost 50-100, how one could fetch part kit for 200 and even more confusing why anyone would ride 800-frame with 200-part kit. Besides that I think it's wiser to split budget more like 60/40 not to ride waterpipe frame or fast-wearing parts.
Im not expert but how I see it - cheapest parts are both heavy, less nice to use and often short living. Very expensive parts will be lightest but may not have longest lifespan (they are for win not to keep up for decades). Thus midrange is about right, maybe with bias towards more expensive here and less expensive there.
@@event4216 Well, midrange could mean different things for different people. I mean, you see bike RUclipsrs go around calling 3000$+ bikes "budget friendly" and I have no idea what they are talking about, as I don't know anyone that thinks a bike that costs the same as a used car is a conscious purchase, even people that ride bikes regularly.
@@BrunodeSouzaLino I'm not sure we need to compare price of new cycle to used car, but sure a lot of stuff costs more than I'd pay....But there's wide enough choice for every pocket.
@@event4216 If your bike costs you more than your salary, it is expensive, even if you gradually bought the parts yourself and put it together. What most people don't realize is how biased and brand driven they are and will spend more on brand stuff that's no better than a no-brand or small brand equivalent that costs half the price or less and has the same quality.
IF YOU RE CHEAP BUY CHEAP AND PAY LATER ,otherwise try to find a cromo frame and alloy parts with wider tires for realistic real in the city etc .SKINNY TIRES ARE ONLY FOR THE TRACK ie ;anything leas than 28mm :)
I think the first question you should be asking yourself with that budget is "Why should you do it?". You can build a decent full bike for that amount of money if you know what you're doing. That would be like buying something like a BAC Mono and using it as your every day drive. A car that only sits one, has pretty much no modern security features, reverse gear, doesn't protect you from rain and so on.
Because you're already defeating the purpose of fixies, which were meant as a cheaper alternative to full bikes, with a budget of 1 grand, especially considering many mid to high end bikes cost that amount. You're essentially paying more for less.
Ph i assume, just upgraded from cheap heavy steel fixie to a tsunami. Considered the Tutubi too but i liked the geomwtry of the tsunami more but i think they are both good, just preference i guess.
@@cygnusx1858 I know tsunamis a better frame but for a beater bike I think its too much (even for my wallet) Those beautiful colors, I'd be pissed if I gets scratches or dents. Also, they don't have bottle cage bosses not like the Tutubi Needle.
A good way is to get a frameset from a previous year, as they are usually discounted. High quality and lower price.
Or just a complete bike a few years old in mint condition for dirt cheap
RollinRat thousands of super cheap complete bikes on all for sale sites lol I see them everyday
Never go full track bike.
Using 700cx19mm tire with 200 psi on the street is beyond insane.
Stick with a street fixed gear. Just my 2 cents.
23-28 is the sweet spot, but bigger tires are super fun too
i agree but sometimes riding my track bike on the streets is a blast. has 100mm carbon wheels, tubs at 10bar. never gets old.
if you want, here is my bike: www.pedalroom.com/bike/ridley-arena-alu-43246
Hi-mid range frame paired with practical components like formula and tectro. I set up my big block like this and have kept it fresh by gradually adding bling. Seven years later and it’s still as much fun as day one. (Game changer: specialized power saddle.)
I went the expensive components and cheap frame: 6KU with 75s, Chris King, Super toughness, etc. just upgraded to a BB17 Transfer Lo Pro, couldn’t be happier
Shitter Slaxs bruh why king that overpriced you coulda spent that on the frame
Haakon Hunter I got the whole bike minus wheelset for 300, all I needed was a new frame. The deal was too good to turn down
Another interesting question is, at what price point is a steel frame optimized functionally? $600-700?
Let’s remove aesthetics out of consideration, because a beautiful custom frame with tasteful lugs or fillet brazing, a stellar paint job and internal routing can be worth $2000 and up (rightfully so) but is is functionally better then a $600 TIG welded frame set? My guess is no.
In this question, let’s also take
standard 4130 double butted tubing, and not consider fancier tubing.
in europe i often find high quality frames at good prices, second hand, discounted older models, etc. you don't get that with components. so i focus more on components in terms of budget.
In Mexico you get hi-ten frames and heavier bikes at full prices.
Two different worlds
You can get a really nice vintage steel road bike frame for less than 200
Campagnolo Queen get lucky on eBay, probably also like offerup and apps like those, Craigslist too
And a lot of them have sliding dropouts.
You can get a really nice vintage steel road bike frame from the trash bin.
People don't know what they have
Or buy triban 120
Crazy I just noticed his videos weren’t popping up in my feed for a while
I have a Paké Rum Runner frameset which is made with Tange CrMo steel with track geometry, I think I only paid $250 for it. I've been upgrading parts on it ever since I got it and it's been a great platform to build on for a good price
Be patient and Buy Used. I found a super deal (less than half your budget) on a like new Langster. It even has an aluminum frame and carbon fork! There was enough budget left for a pair of Wabi sub-15's, which made a huge difference.
I can build a decent road bike for about a grand. So you can build a damn good fixed gear for a grand. EBay. EBay is life.
Thanks, Zach! This was WAY more in depth than I expected. I got my single speed Lotus rideable yesterday, and I kinda hate it. New Wheels and chain reveal how crappy this frame is. Back to the drawing board!
I ride a vintage Lotus Special, whatchu got?
You can get quality road bike with an crit (aggressive geometry, similar to track) with quality tubing for a steal in most markets. Tires can have as much affect on ride quality as wheelset or even tubing. Geometry, and fit are also very important.
Idk how I wasn't subbed you always find your way into my recommended though
sir can you review khs flite100? because many people do not know about the bicycle. very little information from youtube or google
In my opinion you should always go for a high end frame with nice tubing. Components can be easily swapped and starting with some 2nd hand medium quality components it's not a bad idea at all. On top of that, you'll have to change components frequently anyway as they wear out with time
Considering the huge amount of components a fixie doesn't have...Will you be paying more than 80% of your budget on your frame only?
@@BrunodeSouzaLino if it's my only bike and I'm planning for a long term ownership, yes. If the case would be to build an everyday beater bike maybe not
@@arboldechorizos Higher price doesn't always equal quality. In fact, many of the higher end bike parts are made with weight savings, not reliability, in mind.
Real talk, I'm of the "buy cheap bike with good frame quality and upgrade components" camp. My friends hate me for it, mostly because they say it'll cost me more in the long run. Being that I assemble and build my own bikes, I can scope out quality components fairly cheap with no labor overhead.
Just upgraded my Takara Yuugen from stock with some new bars, stem, wheels, tires, pedals and working on the brakes. The bike costs 200 and the total cost for new parts has been ~400. for that though, I have a fixie that absolutely beasts and shiny components to upgrade to a better frame when ready.
I struggle to find these price points when also trying to support the local bike shops. Gotta compromise somewhere or have deep pockets. It just isn't realistic where I'm at. Pandemic has also inflated costs too since everyone realized biking kicks ass.
Pricepoint will yield a little less in terms of part pricing because some money has to go to labor but having the bikeshop help with part picking can make up for it when you realize those tires you'd never heard about or the handlebars you never considered feel great to ride.
Charge Spoon , I was really surprised at how much I liked it. But I still want a Brooks.
Hey RUclips, I copped a wabi and it is a thrill to ride. Can’t explain it. It’s like riding a paper clip. I was happy the whole time i cycled.
800 on frame and 500 on components.... two best purchases was the Brooks and Gator skins.
Which brooks you go for?
OG Lobster Brooks Cambium 17.
@@charlesm.8807 Nice. Yeah man I have b17 and c17 they are totally different style of saddles. But find them equally comfy. Never regretted getting my brooks saddles.
@@OGLobster which do you prefer b17 or c17 for comfortably
@@Towelie4200 I have two bikes and they both have different geometry. I prefer the C17 with a more aggressive geometry. And the b17 for a more relaxed position.
In my area, it’s definitely easier to find a deal on a nice used frame than it is to find good used parts, but there’s not really a strong fixie community here. So I would think here you could focus most of the budget on components.
On most bikes a good place to save is on the headset - a basic tange for 10-25 USD is more than enough unless you're really abusing the bike. The headset is one of the least important bearings, and you'll notice the effects of cheap pedal bearings or an uncomfortable contact point more.
@BeboSaab Yea the tange ones are caged loose bearing. Tange Levin and so on. They're cheap and as a bonus still made in Japan.
You should consider buying a second hand frameset. Here in Europe, that's very easy. I got a german custom built frame made of Cinelli SLX tubing for 100€ including a campagnolo bottom bracket in very good condition. You can find a lot of these here :)
This is higher that your video's budget, but I spent £250 on a Dolan pre cursa frame and the parts added up to around £900 in parts (fizik finishing kit, sram omniums, alpina a6t tubulars). I couldn't think of a better use of money when track bikes are concerned.
$1000 dollars, you say?
Meanwhile, in Canada...
(edit - yeah, that's not fair... just anywhere outside of Vancouver, Toronto, or Montreal)
this. well said Zach, the best use of money is to invest in something you will and want to use.
over the years of upgrades i have done to my bikes the ones that made the most impact were cockpit and tires..comfort is the only way to keep you wanting to ride. luckily i found a saddle i liked early on and it was cheap to i got a couple of them so each bike was able to start life with my bottom happy. then it was stem and bars and some good tires. all my frames are enjoyable to ride, no matter the difference in materials, as a result.
KEEP UP THE GREAT VIDEOS !! YOU RE REAL CYCLIST so of course we VALUE YOUR OPTIONS :)
Thanks Zach. This is helpful.
👍 great vid Zach very informative. Hey listen, how do u feel about the State 4130 line? Thinking about getting one of those. Cheers! Thanks!
I have a Fabricbike Light frame set for €350
and components for €900.
The bike fits like a glove and I don't feel like that
the frame is bad.
O.K. the frame is not so stiff as a 2000$ frame but its ok.
I have a lot of high priced bikes but this is definitely my favorite bike.
Greetings from Germany.
Hi Zack!
I have the option to get a custom build frameset made to measure BUT made from hi-ten steel.
Should I go that way or wait until i get a mass produced chromo that it's not for my body?
thanks zach very helpful
I have a Prime Track Frame. I don't know whether to upgrade into a new complete bike or change the most components?
A really good video Zach.
Hey Zach when you got your bike from state bicycle co how long did you have to wait for it?
I think i just felt in love
Two years I thought I've been subscribed 🤦🏻♂️ also hey from Tulsa
I got a 54$usd celt frame and fork philippine brand and its made of high tensile steel it has a really nice coat and is really light most of the riders here use it and the quality is well above the price
Any chance you could give recommendations on fixed gear bikes that are available in Europe (Specifically Germany)?
8bar bikes are solid. I was pleasantly surprised with mine.
Hey, do you have an opinion about the 8Bar framesets, I was thinking about buying the V7 frame?
I got one, the geometry is so awesome, but for crowded streets I prefer my vigorelli, it's more comfortable to ride
their frames look boring tbh, or maybe it's becauce I ve seen too many
What do you think about a aero sprint frameset it's a 130$ frameset with a carbon fork and some type of alloy frame
Zach: *never experiences daily life with an alloy frame or carbon forks.*
Still Zach:"guys I just wanna put out there alloy frames and carbon forks are unreliable"
@BeboSaab My 8.9kg Cannondale CAAD Synapse says otherwise. Don't underestimate the Aluminati.
Considering the fact that I have competitors on Carbon bikes in the Junior Elite Category, I think it's fairly justified to Ride an alloy bike with 50mm Carbon wheels. Though I don't think you can beat me even if I use my commuter bike which is, well, rusty.
Depends on the race purse lol.
Or if your team has a good sponsor they'd give you some dough for living expenses aand airplane rides to races in other islands.
Every day I'm terrified that the aluminum mountain bike I sold to a friend will spli in half from the stress of being locked up to a bike rack, despite me previously crashing it in a rock garden and it coming away unscathed. You really can't trust aluminum or carbon. That's why every pro rides a downhill mountain bike made of steel...
I have been a subscriber for a while now. Here's a thought! How about working and saving up until you have enough money and buy a top quality bike that will last you a lifetime, that you will love and that you will enjoy. Shocking concept, I know.
I totally agree with You. Nothing to regret later on. Cheers.
Hey Zach, I’m thinking about getting an Ingria frame but there’s not a lot of reviews on them. Do you have any opinions on them?
I heard that a lot of people didnt received their bike from Ingria or received poor quality bikes
Hmm I'm a roadie, but generally I would buy a super nice frame, then upgrade parts as desired. A heavy frame would limit weight shedding, not be as stiff, or as agile
The worst upgrade decision is to swap out a frameset. To me its more worth getting a second bike tailored for specifically different needs.
Cool looking watch. Is it a Seiko?
Hmm I disagree on the alloy/carbon. My Landyachtz Blade was $485 in USD for an aluminum frame with nicely designed dropouts and a great carbon fork and headset.
What do you think about the omnium cargo cxc?
Recently been curious if a chain tensioner could be used to make a frame set without sliding dropouts a viable fixie candidate? It works with single speed but if it worked with fixed gear riding that could open up frame options quite a bit.
it doesn't. Also the frame geometry is not made for fixed gear riding
Tensioners works similar to derailleurs, they pull the chain to be strung between cog and cranks only in upper part; if you'll try to skid or put any back force on pedalls the tensioner will bend flat with nothing to tension chain on the upper part of the drivetrain; it will get loose leading to chain skipping tooths on cog or falling from it entirelly. On single speed convertions freewheel doesn't let you to aply enough back force to bend tensioner flat.
I’m curious, how much does Wallace weigh currently? With all the new parts.
Frame then wheels, then drive train, stem, handlebars, grips then whatever
For the most part, I buy used bike parts/frames. So for me, a $1000 budget for a fixie frame build is more than enough.
I bought high end components, cheap frame set, the frame is amazing, I love it
I like my bikes how I like my skateboards, top heavy
Do you think this is better then buying a complete build? What about for someone that isn’t able to build a bike? And can’t have a shop do it because they need to order it online? Seems like understanding the measurement and comfort are key. Glad you love yours. I didn’t that with my current bike over the years upgrading parts. It definitely helped and was a very cheap frame/complete build.
@@deerinheadlights9784 I didn't know what I was doing, RUclips helped me so much, if you're going to buy a complete, buy a higher spec one, cheap completes can be catastrophic
@@deerinheadlights9784 I did it for the fun and experience
Steven Grindey thanks! Do you have any recommendations for brands for compete builds? I’m not able to do a complete build because of health related (and time) reasons. Down the road I’d like to possibly do that when I’m able. Glad you were able to have that experience.
The frame is the soul of the bike
I went to a coop bicycle shop where they only sale used parts and bicycles. I got a miyata one ten fixed gear conversion for 100.
zach's been watching dream I see
I'd say the frame should cost about 30-40% of your total budget. It's also easier to upgrade components later on.
what is the frame/fork set at 1:05?
Buy a complete upgrade over time part at a time then buy a good frame once up built up good parys
To have a carrier rack (front & rear) or to not?
Nitto
I took the cheap frame, quality components route when initially built my bike 8 years ago. Couldn’t be happier.
Leader 722ts + custom powdercoated fork, average track wheelset, Omniums, King (headset from the parts bin), some Cinelli/Mash bits, Laminated double straps (Cadence), GR9’s and some good rubber.
Cost was $780-ish and it’s been absolutely bombproof. I’ve never gotten a flat (it was a commuter bike for a while but I religiously keep pressure topped off) and never had a single issue with ANY components.
People, if you have budget constraints there is only one GOOD option for you:
Cheap frame + quality parts = The Move
Go the opposite route and I can basically assure you that at the end of the day your fancy frame will feel awful with your mushy cranks, ill fitting saddle and your boat anchor of a wheelset on skinny tires.
As a bit of an aside, Leader may be a shitty company, I mean, they really screwed folks over, however, I’d be hard pressed to speak poorly of that frame. It’s been stellar, especially so for the price.
That is all.
Find a local bike co-op and visit regularly to keep tabs on what frames and components come through. Be patient and don't settle for mediocrity. If you put the time in you'll eventually find quality gear and pay far less than retail or even wholesale prices. Build your own bikes!
Is there any difference between just chromoly and butted chromoly ?
Yes. Butted tubbing (regadless of material) is slightly heavier, since it's thicker on either end and thinner in the middle, as opposed to being the same thickness for the whole length. It's also more expensive.
Whats the bike name ?
Thankyou
charge spoon changed my life. I can ride 5 hours without padded shorts with no negative side effects. All I need are soft drawz and maybe some chamois cream
@BeboSaab I'm sure it's not the best seat for me. But it was a huge improvement over the stock saddle that came with the bike. The stock saddle gave me immediate pain.
You want an ass hatchet try a Cinelli Unicanitor shell. They're still made! They'll test your parts! Looks good on any vintage bike though.
staring at my cheap frame, hoping
BTW TAKE OFF PARTS FROM LBS is an awesome way to save money !! AND ALLOY FRAMES ARE STIFF AND FAST BUT UNCOMFORTABLE !! GO CROMO !!
Chromoly is an alloy. What are you talking about?
@@BrunodeSouzaLino prob means aluminum alloy vs steel
@@davidduganne5939 Chromoly is a steel alloy though...
Up here, 50 bucks for the frame and 100 bucks for the parts and 850 bucks for foods life needie 😂
300/300 = keep 400 for food
Yep
Yes yes yes a lot of great comments but, lets get down to the real and most important question Zach! What is the fastest you have gone on a fixed gear buddy?
I’m not sure the premise here is that sound. Custom builds cost more than complete bikes. Period.
At $1000, it is far better to buy a complete bike and upgrade as you go along. You get far better bang for your buck, and as you learn what you like, you can adjust accordingly. Bike companies have economies of scale individuals just don’t have.
This rule works for geared and non-geared bikes. $1000 is a lot of money. But it’s not a lot when you buy every bolt separately. Trust me; I know. That’s why my latest gravel build (geared, thank you) ran about $6k.
But the best $100 you can spend is on a Brooks. No contest.
Agree, completes get you more bike for the money. Upgrades can be made later when you identify needs. Bikefit is critical and can make a good saddle uncomfortable. I bought a Cinelli Crest saddle for my road bike and it works wonderfully. My Aventon now has one. Tires make about as much difference as the frame material. Quality steel rides smoother but always felt too flexible under hard effort. Aluminum never lets you forget the frame material choice. Aluminum frames surge forward with hard effort. Nobody in their right mind would ride a true track bike on the road with disk wheels and tubular tires. The bikes we ride are a compromise of price, performance, and practicality.
@@davidburgess741 so don't get a track bike for city commute?? Serious question
@@derman3658 Not a 15,000 to 25,000 dollar professional model for international competition! They are at the UCI minimum weight and stiffer than anything on the road. They don't have bumps on the track.
@@davidburgess741 ah okay. I'm still torn if i really need one. I already have a XC commuter and a racer but I like the idea of one.
Nothing worse than an uncomfortable seat.
Amen! I didn't know this until I picked up a seat with the middle cut out. Oh sweet Jesus, what a difference! My balls thanked me!
I bought a secondhand pinarello pista with camp super records and Miche pistards for €400
.... buying new is just stupid
Shit I got a 87 nishiki frame set for 75 with tange 1 double buttes tubing.
Assuming a set of good tires cost 50-100, how one could fetch part kit for 200 and even more confusing why anyone would ride 800-frame with 200-part kit. Besides that I think it's wiser to split budget more like 60/40 not to ride waterpipe frame or fast-wearing parts.
Expensive parts, especially ones that are lighter, trade reliability for less weight. You can't have them both.
Im not expert but how I see it - cheapest parts are both heavy, less nice to use and often short living. Very expensive parts will be lightest but may not have longest lifespan (they are for win not to keep up for decades). Thus midrange is about right, maybe with bias towards more expensive here and less expensive there.
@@event4216 Well, midrange could mean different things for different people. I mean, you see bike RUclipsrs go around calling 3000$+ bikes "budget friendly" and I have no idea what they are talking about, as I don't know anyone that thinks a bike that costs the same as a used car is a conscious purchase, even people that ride bikes regularly.
@@BrunodeSouzaLino I'm not sure we need to compare price of new cycle to used car, but sure a lot of stuff costs more than I'd pay....But there's wide enough choice for every pocket.
@@event4216 If your bike costs you more than your salary, it is expensive, even if you gradually bought the parts yourself and put it together. What most people don't realize is how biased and brand driven they are and will spend more on brand stuff that's no better than a no-brand or small brand equivalent that costs half the price or less and has the same quality.
IF YOU RE CHEAP BUY CHEAP AND PAY LATER ,otherwise try to find a cromo frame and alloy parts with wider tires for realistic real in the city etc .SKINNY TIRES ARE ONLY FOR THE TRACK ie ;anything leas than 28mm :)
Modern road frames all fit 700x43 wheels nowadays.
Would you ever do an FGFS video?
🥺👉👈
what size of rim and tire should i get if want to go fast
Any weight reduction in the bicycle itself yields negligible performance. Reducing your own weight and being fitter has much more improved results.
i built an njs bike with only 685 dollars 😛
a $1000 bike is too much for me and Im inlove with my $100 fixed gear
Same XD. Mine costed me $88
@@piyushshandilya5176 Haha, I stole mine so it was free. Not rly my size but the guy used a shitty lock so he was asking for it
HGZ lmaooo
@HGZ Man! 😂😂😂😂
Buy the cheapest bike that you can That’s what I would say
But what if you only got €350
Used frame and great parts.
👌
hey zacb wya lets ride
Or just buy middle ranged parts and a middle ranged frame
talks about $1000 bikes. How many bikes shown were under $1000 as they appeared in the vid? None.
u can get a dolan precursa for 300 usd
I think the first question you should be asking yourself with that budget is "Why should you do it?". You can build a decent full bike for that amount of money if you know what you're doing. That would be like buying something like a BAC Mono and using it as your every day drive. A car that only sits one, has pretty much no modern security features, reverse gear, doesn't protect you from rain and so on.
Why not just increase your budget?
Because you're already defeating the purpose of fixies, which were meant as a cheaper alternative to full bikes, with a budget of 1 grand, especially considering many mid to high end bikes cost that amount. You're essentially paying more for less.
@@BrunodeSouzaLino G'day Bruno. You're making sense. Appreciate you sharing this. All the best.
ok
Anyone here familiar with "Tutubi Needle" Frame set? Planning on building a budget alu fixie build. :)
is that a brand in the ph?
Ph i assume, just upgraded from cheap heavy steel fixie to a tsunami. Considered the Tutubi too but i liked the geomwtry of the tsunami more but i think they are both good, just preference i guess.
@@cygnusx1858 I know tsunamis a better frame but for a beater bike I think its too much (even for my wallet) Those beautiful colors, I'd be pissed if I gets scratches or dents. Also, they don't have bottle cage bosses not like the Tutubi Needle.
@@Iamwel very valid points, yeah if ur going for a beater tutubi is the one i'd go for too.
do cheaper frame
Very sad how insane your views droped eventho its basically the same content
The views dropped because it's the exact same content.
His core viewers (us) will still enjoy his content, but most people will eventually get bored.
Can you sponsor me a frameset I'm from Philippines i subscribe you since day one frame size:50
I'd go for a nice frame and shitty components and gradually swap m out over time for nice components.
60-100 for tires? 😅😅😅
I spend 9 euro per tire 🤷🏽♂️ & I ride daily