Foot retention is very important when riding fixed gear. Not only for skidding and better power transfer, but also so that you don't risk hitting your leg with the pedal if your foot were to slip off. I would also have chosen a 144 bcd crankset, so that I can use higher quality, track specific components.
converting an old Peugeot to a fixed gear taught me all about compatibility standards and so much more. It had old cottered cranks, French threading, a smaller inner diameter of the fork tube, thus a skinnier stem, weird seatpost size. Overcoming all of those issues was how I first learned to work on bikes.
I am absolutely loving these series JC, hope there are dozens of bike builds to come. Reminds me of A Car is Born, a great TV series documenting a car build, except Mark Evans wasn't an expert - and you are. You're spoiling us, JC!
I’m interested in the total cost of this. Short of the frame and forks it’s the same components as a basic fixed gear. I think clever 2nd hand buying of some components could have produced a nicer build for similar money
Loving the first 20s of the video where it recaps previous episode. Who's the brains (editor) behind this video? He/she is definitely one brilliant editor! Keep up the amazing work, GCN!
Well done Jon, you have thrown the cat amongst the birds with those flat pedals!!! BUT I use a pair of Hope mountain bike pedals on my fix wheel. Reason; I had a stroke some years ago and need to get my feet down FAST! So someone prove me wrong!
Following your projects with interest,. Thanks to your videos I (a completer novice bike mech) just upgraded the cassette, lengthened the derailleur, fitted a new chain and saddle and fitted it up for my partner. Now to start work on bringing my US postal Trek back from the past. Cheers.
Oh my goodness. I recently did the same transformation with a 1984 Fuji frame. I also used the BN55 bottom bracket, flip-flop rear hub and straight bars. So funny. I stripped and sanded the frame down to the metal and give it a new paint job. Not a contender for the bike vault but a blast to ride around town.
If you have the choice, I would always go for a 144 bcd crankset. yep, 130bcd is cheaper in the beginning, but when you want to replace the chainring, you have much more choice with a 144bcd...at least in europe. and also 144bcd is stiffer, the high quality chainrings have 144bcd, they are rounder bla bla bla.... AND FOOTRETENTION ! even if you have both breaks. it is not nice if you slip from the pedal and the pedal crushes into your leg. you will probably end up with your nose on the street
These DIY videos inspired me to upgrade my crappy old bike with new brakes, saddle, bottom bracket, cranks, pedals, and newly built wheels by myself. Thanks Jon!
Loving this particular build, as I have a Premiere that I've taken to Eroica Britannia a couple of time, and now use as an occasional commuter when I have the urge for rocking up to work in vintage kit and leather 'hairnet' helmet. I might get a second one for a single-speed...once I have another shed.
Agreed, Peugeot seat posts are classic, when buying a second hand Peugeot always pull the post out, if you can, to check the length, I bought one once and the post was too short...
Good review of the parts, Jon. Nice looking crankset. (Not sure I buy into the engineering behind the fixed side being "easier" than a freewheel side.)
Origin 8 do from I heard an alright headset, and Kalloy Uno sell all the crazy old standard seatposts and bars/stems (i managed to get a black finish for a 1980s Raleigh for around 10 pound via SantaFixie to save me using the 25.4mm+ botch shim the previous owner used) Thorn sell a 1/8 chainring for 110bcd chainsets (mainly road bike chainset bcd and quite a few non compact sugino cranks from the 80s)
Loving this series John. I have a Repco victory Try A under the house somewhere that may receive a similar treatment after your inspiration. I've read lots of the comments below and would like to support you with your pedal choice! It could be the Sunday church bike.
Hey Jon, it has been a dream of mine to have a lugged steel trackbike and last wednesday I went and bought the frame for it. The brand is called "Mani". Well at least that is what the stickers on it say. I never heard of them and could not find a single word about it on the internet. Have you heard of this manufacturer? Frame and fork both have some well aged "Reynolds 531 Tubing" stickers on them. I absolutely love this series and i can not wait to see how your bike will look when its finished. Have a great day!
Nice video. Perhaps you could give a hint for where to find those wheels. I’m building up an old Koga Miyata frame and wanted some classic looking wheels like these but it’s hard to find - especially at a reasonable price. Ryde’s website only seems to sell the rims and building wheels from scratch quickly gets expensive (and a Google search doesn’t really give any useful results). Cheers.
What a wonderful series. I was looking for some parts to build a fixie to accompany my CX bike. And ended up buying a Nukeproof Mega 290 frameset. XD But it's also gonna be a long term build.
@@Metr0Wolf totally ruins the look of the classic frame and makes you wider (meaning it's much harder to squeeze through traffic). If you're going with flat bars why not just go all the way with an mtb instead of making some weird hybrid that isn't good at being a road bike or an mtb...
Maximuss I’ve seen heaps of old fixed gears with flat bars, personally I think flat bars look elegant. However I do like drop bars on fixed gears too, but a fixed gear is more of a commuter bike than anything else - that’s is sole purpose so flat bars offer a less aggressive and a more relaxed ride for those who want it
So did he choose the silver rims before acquiring the black seat post, brakes and headset? Would have gone with all black components being dictated by the colour and limited availability of that size of seatpost. Each to their own I guess.
I've build loads of track bikes in my life, retro looking one and modern aero as well, but that Peugeot should have chromed components and tan walls. Mixing those parts in this frame will look like mess but good luck.
I'm looking forward to seeing how it looks once it's done, I'm wondering if those brake levers are adjustable for caliper brakes, they look like v-brake levers which have a different cable pull, but either way they will work, I think you just lose some of the modulation, it's when you use caliper levers on v-brakes that it doesn't work so well, they tend to be weak and feel spongy
I'm not one to go against John, but... I would definitely recommend 165mm cranks on a fixie, you will find that pedal strikes are quite common out on the road, especially if you're new to riding fixed.
You had me thinking when you said you have something special for the chain. I am wondering. Is it a gold half link chain? I would have gone for the Crank Brothers Stamp 1 or to add some colour the Stamp 1 LE. If I was going to go for clipless pedals. Then I would go for the Crank Brothers Double Shot 3 as these have adjustable pins.
what is the size of the new wheels? vintage bikes had 27" wheels and not 700c . the new wheels will ton be easy to fit because the larger diameter will make the wheels to touch the downtube.
Please highlight that having brakes is often a legal requirement and not just a preference! If you have a flip flop in the UK you need both front and rear. For a fixie you can have just a front (rear counts)
You didn't say how many teeth the chainring has. My guess is 46 or 48? If so, having a 17 tooth fixed cog gives you 17 skid patches rather than 9 (if you had a 18 tooth fixed cog as well). This helps with tyre longevity if you're skidding.
Does that bottom bracket fit? You have a British thread BB (I have the same one), but that's a French frame, and I thought they used a different threading, at least on older frames like that?
Really nice plan, Jon, and clear explanation and hey, what about the condition, O wait, I can't complain because, like a cowboy on a fast horse, you headed us off at the pass, no way to reach the saloon and mumble about your component selection.
As the owner of Shimano® aehy can tell you most if not any bicycle shop will know a Shimano UN55 weighs twice as much as a UN77 and only costs %40 more most of the "HG" aka 7-8spd is XT or 600 group set durable because of improvements in metallurgy for example 1992 Shimano "DX" cranks (175mm if your height is 182cm) were "XT" in 1994 with XTR being the most durable especially in Melbourne where trams use sand on their brakes in winter getting into YOUR chain, if you want components that will last a commuter rider 20yrs go for top of the line.
Hi John, I have started a project with an old Raleigh winter- reckon its 1980s. It has 120mm rear dropouts and 100mm front. does this wheelset have same? cheers Chris
Flip flop hub seems rather pointless in practice unless learning how to ride fixed without committing. Brakes and singlespeed/fixed and foot retention +front brake, pick one.
Curious about the chain. I always use an old chain that's between 0.5 and 0.75 of wear because new chains never seem to mesh with my single speed cogs. They're also free courtesy of my geared bikes.
Hi Jon!! nice parts for the new project... looks gooood! can you give us some links to find that parts for our own fixies? what about the paintjob? some keirin old school style perhaps? as always cheers from Bolivia!
BB not French? Absolutely need foot retention: flat pedals + Fixie = smacked legs! The rest is a matter of choice. New cheap stuff is the easy and efficient way forward, plus looks fresh, but the hard work of shopping for much higher quality used stuff can be cheaper and end up is so oh much more classy builds... Btw those tires cost as much as the rest of the bike unless Conti pays for the plug-in ;) and doing skids on GP5000 is sacrilege!!!!
Which parts would you have chosen? Let us know in the comments below 🔧
Is the threading on the BB not French?
foot retention!!
gotta have 144bcd cranks
a turbo saddle would also look amazing
and some chrome brakes would suit the bike better
Foot retention is very important when riding fixed gear. Not only for skidding and better power transfer, but also so that you don't risk hitting your leg with the pedal if your foot were to slip off. I would also have chosen a 144 bcd crankset, so that I can use higher quality, track specific components.
Plastic adjustable BB cup though was good as it didn't chew up the threads in the bracket.
converting an old Peugeot to a fixed gear taught me all about compatibility standards and so much more. It had old cottered cranks, French threading, a smaller inner diameter of the fork tube, thus a skinnier stem, weird seatpost size. Overcoming all of those issues was how I first learned to work on bikes.
Hi, I’m doing the same thing and was wondering what diameter quill stem did you use? Thanks
I am absolutely loving these series JC, hope there are dozens of bike builds to come. Reminds me of A Car is Born, a great TV series documenting a car build, except Mark Evans wasn't an expert - and you are. You're spoiling us, JC!
If you’re going to use flat pedals then you should get MTB or BMX pedals because they actually work
Hi, a great series so far, however it would be really nice to list the gear in the caption 😉
I’m interested in the total cost of this.
Short of the frame and forks it’s the same components as a basic fixed gear.
I think clever 2nd hand buying of some components could have produced a nicer build for similar money
FOOT RETENTION please, nice choice with the bars though :)
Nice one Jon! The chain of suspense!
Loving the first 20s of the video where it recaps previous episode.
Who's the brains (editor) behind this video?
He/she is definitely one brilliant editor!
Keep up the amazing work, GCN!
I opted for bullhorns for my Fixie. They make it a little bit easier to go uphill. Plus they give the bike an “aggressive look” that I like.
Well done Jon, you have thrown the cat amongst the birds with those flat pedals!!! BUT I use a pair of Hope mountain bike pedals on my fix wheel. Reason; I had a stroke some years ago and need to get my feet down FAST! So someone prove me wrong!
Following your projects with interest,. Thanks to your videos I (a completer novice bike mech) just upgraded the cassette, lengthened the derailleur, fitted a new chain and saddle and fitted it up for my partner. Now to start work on bringing my US postal Trek back from the past. Cheers.
Oh my goodness. I recently did the same transformation with a 1984 Fuji frame. I also used the BN55 bottom bracket, flip-flop rear hub and straight bars. So funny. I stripped and sanded the frame down to the metal and give it a new paint job. Not a contender for the bike vault but a blast to ride around town.
Wow! Did nearly the same, 80's Fuji (except I re-used components and kept the gears)
Straightforward with great attention to detail. I like this kind of videos.
the velodrome anecdote was so relatable.
Really digging the recent series of bike builds.
Wonderful to have on hand for little ones.
The parts look great but i would suggest getting some foot retention as i myself am a fixed gear rider and i find its pretty useful when riding around
If you have the choice, I would always go for a 144 bcd crankset.
yep, 130bcd is cheaper in the beginning, but when you want to replace the chainring, you have much more choice with a 144bcd...at least in europe. and also 144bcd is stiffer, the high quality chainrings have 144bcd, they are rounder bla bla bla....
AND FOOTRETENTION ! even if you have both breaks. it is not nice if you slip from the pedal and the pedal crushes into your leg. you will probably end up with your nose on the street
These DIY videos inspired me to upgrade my crappy old bike with new brakes, saddle, bottom bracket, cranks, pedals, and newly built wheels by myself. Thanks Jon!
A great teaser for next week!
These build videos are some of your best. And you have a lot of great videos to compete against.
Should make a touring/Gravel bike from an old mountain bike next !
Really nice HLE frame! An actual classic.
Used that BB for my old Bianchi, bombproof indeed.
Been waiting all week for this video!
Please make more series like this!
A tan Brooks saddle would look good.
Good choice with the 165mm crank
I love your choices, can't wait to see the final product.
Yes. We love a bike build on the gcn tech channel. Not the lame which tire goes further infomercial from the other day.
Loving this particular build, as I have a Premiere that I've taken to Eroica Britannia a couple of time, and now use as an occasional commuter when I have the urge for rocking up to work in vintage kit and leather 'hairnet' helmet. I might get a second one for a single-speed...once I have another shed.
I dont understand how bikes work and I love to see someone actually taking them apart and rebuilding them.
Top man on GCN, John.
Would love to see another budget bike build
How about a retro mountain bike --> gravel bike for the next project?
Could we get a part list with pricing? Hearing about the various parts is great, but being able to look them up would be even better.
Will depend on where in the world you are and your currency, Marshall.
Just happened to have some gp 5000 under his desk okay sure 🙄
Directional tires on a flip flop hub....
So it will be a Coca-Cola can and the tin snips for the seatpost shim?
Just like Greg Lemond's time trial bike handlebars !
Funny - that's what I had to do with my Peugeot.
Agreed, Peugeot seat posts are classic, when buying a second hand Peugeot always pull the post out, if you can, to check the length, I bought one once and the post was too short...
I want to do mostly the same build, but with dropbars OR a shimano nexus 3 speed
Good review of the parts, Jon. Nice looking crankset.
(Not sure I buy into the engineering behind the fixed side being "easier" than a freewheel side.)
Origin 8 do from I heard an alright headset, and Kalloy Uno sell all the crazy old standard seatposts and bars/stems (i managed to get a black finish for a 1980s Raleigh for around 10 pound via SantaFixie to save me using the 25.4mm+ botch shim the previous owner used)
Thorn sell a 1/8 chainring for 110bcd chainsets (mainly road bike chainset bcd and quite a few non compact sugino cranks from the 80s)
Loving this series John. I have a Repco victory Try A under the house somewhere that may receive a similar treatment after your inspiration. I've read lots of the comments below and would like to support you with your pedal choice! It could be the Sunday church bike.
Superb video, it helps me a lot to transform my bike, however one question can you give more details about the flat bar, which model brand?
Hey Jon, it has been a dream of mine to have a lugged steel trackbike and last wednesday I went and bought the frame for it. The brand is called "Mani". Well at least that is what the stickers on it say. I never heard of them and could not find a single word about it on the internet. Have you heard of this manufacturer? Frame and fork both have some well aged "Reynolds 531 Tubing" stickers on them. I absolutely love this series and i can not wait to see how your bike will look when its finished. Have a great day!
no heard of Mani I am afraid. But 531 is a classic tubeset, it will ride amazingly well. Cheers, Jon
I waited so long for this
Nice video. Perhaps you could give a hint for where to find those wheels. I’m building up an old Koga Miyata frame and wanted some classic looking wheels like these but it’s hard to find - especially at a reasonable price. Ryde’s website only seems to sell the rims and building wheels from scratch quickly gets expensive (and a Google search doesn’t really give any useful results). Cheers.
Any luck yet?
What a wonderful series. I was looking for some parts to build a fixie to accompany my CX bike. And ended up buying a Nukeproof Mega 290 frameset. XD But it's also gonna be a long term build.
You forgot some good old pedal straps to help you with the mad skids :D
Totally agree with every decision of this project, but I really don’t feel the flat bars... drops would look so much better...
Maximuss nope, think flat bars are a good choice. It depends on the rider and their riding style
@@Metr0Wolf totally ruins the look of the classic frame and makes you wider (meaning it's much harder to squeeze through traffic). If you're going with flat bars why not just go all the way with an mtb instead of making some weird hybrid that isn't good at being a road bike or an mtb...
Maximuss I’ve seen heaps of old fixed gears with flat bars, personally I think flat bars look elegant. However I do like drop bars on fixed gears too, but a fixed gear is more of a commuter bike than anything else - that’s is sole purpose so flat bars offer a less aggressive and a more relaxed ride for those who want it
Flats all day on a road bike
So did he choose the silver rims before acquiring the black seat post, brakes and headset? Would have gone with all black components being dictated by the colour and limited availability of that size of seatpost. Each to their own I guess.
Really enjoying your bike builds, Jon. Will the chain be gold by any chance?
9:01 was looking for a bike builder dealer to plug me for my bike build fix...
Was not disappointed lmao 👍👍👍
I've build loads of track bikes in my life, retro looking one and modern aero as well, but that Peugeot should have chromed components and tan walls. Mixing those parts in this frame will look like mess but good luck.
Absolutely polished aluminum and chrome!
I'm looking forward to seeing how it looks once it's done, I'm wondering if those brake levers are adjustable for caliper brakes, they look like v-brake levers which have a different cable pull, but either way they will work, I think you just lose some of the modulation, it's when you use caliper levers on v-brakes that it doesn't work so well, they tend to be weak and feel spongy
well im using xt mtb brake levers with ultegra brake calipers and it works perfectly
I'm not one to go against John, but... I would definitely recommend 165mm cranks on a fixie, you will find that pedal strikes are quite common out on the road, especially if you're new to riding fixed.
Yes yes! Bike builds like these forever please! Jajaja Thanks! Awesome video!! As all your videos!
Satisfied my cravings
You had me thinking when you said you have something special for the chain. I am wondering. Is it a gold half link chain? I would have gone for the Crank Brothers Stamp 1 or to add some colour the Stamp 1 LE. If I was going to go for clipless pedals. Then I would go for the Crank Brothers Double Shot 3 as these have adjustable pins.
Can´t wait for the next episode!
What's color it going to be? Silver seems nice
Awww😍the chain!
could I get a list of budget friendly flip flop rear wheels please?
what is the size of the new wheels? vintage bikes had 27" wheels and not 700c . the new wheels will ton be easy to fit because the larger diameter will make the wheels to touch the downtube.
Please highlight that having brakes is often a legal requirement and not just a preference!
If you have a flip flop in the UK you need both front and rear. For a fixie you can have just a front (rear counts)
Wait, why do you need a rear brake if the fixed gear has a flip flop hub?
Can't you just ride fixed all the time?
Would have been great to put the prices of every components and where to get them (for newbie like me)
So far so good
Maybe an Izumi chain you snagged from the Keirin? :P
The old seat post would have been fine...save a few quid... eBay parts never fail though
when is the tech episode on the espresso machine?
Have not seen a bike trailer review in a while
You didn't say how many teeth the chainring has. My guess is 46 or 48? If so, having a 17 tooth fixed cog gives you 17 skid patches rather than 9 (if you had a 18 tooth fixed cog as well). This helps with tyre longevity if you're skidding.
Does that bottom bracket fit? You have a British thread BB (I have the same one), but that's a French frame, and I thought they used a different threading, at least on older frames like that?
Really nice plan, Jon, and clear explanation and hey, what about the condition, O wait, I can't complain because, like a cowboy on a fast horse, you headed us off at the pass, no way to reach the saloon and mumble about your component selection.
As the owner of Shimano® aehy can tell you most if not any bicycle shop will know a Shimano UN55 weighs twice as much as a UN77 and only costs %40 more most of the "HG" aka 7-8spd is XT or 600 group set durable because of improvements
in metallurgy for example 1992 Shimano "DX" cranks (175mm if your height is 182cm) were "XT" in 1994 with XTR being the most durable especially in Melbourne where trams use sand on their brakes in winter getting into YOUR chain, if you want components that will last a commuter rider 20yrs go for top of the line.
a rear brake is quite weird for a fixed gear, its ok for a single speed though
I wonder what GCN do with all of their bike builds when the videos are done and dusted!??!
Hi John, I have started a project with an old Raleigh winter- reckon its 1980s. It has 120mm rear dropouts and 100mm front.
does this wheelset have same?
cheers
Chris
This should say. Does your wheelset have same measurements and where you get them
Drinking game: whenever Jon says "tradition"...hit it.
I'm drunk, somewhere between minutes 4 and 5....
Flip flop hub seems rather pointless in practice unless learning how to ride fixed without committing. Brakes and singlespeed/fixed and foot retention +front brake, pick one.
How about turning rear wheel around for fix or freewhel when your tire has direction of rotation?
Curious about the chain. I always use an old chain that's between 0.5 and 0.75 of wear because new chains never seem to mesh with my single speed cogs. They're also free courtesy of my geared bikes.
Jon, what happened to all the NJS kit you bought when you were in Japan?
Aye...BB made in Indonesia 😁is it Shimano?
What happen if the fixed wheel hub is shorter than the drop tubes od the frame? How can straighten the crankset and the fixed cog?
Tnakgs
Hi Jon!! nice parts for the new project... looks gooood! can you give us some links to find that parts for our own fixies? what about the paintjob? some keirin old school style perhaps? as always cheers from Bolivia!
You can always check on njsexport
@@Kantcino thank you very much! really helpful i didnt knew about this :O
do you have any website links to purchase the parts?
Class!
Are brake levers short pull or linear?
Hello ! Do you (or anyone in the comments) have anymore information on the wheels ! In desperate need of some for my Peugeot Fixie conversion !
What is the spindle length for the BB that you are using in the upgrade ?
Could you let me have details of the wheels you used in this build please. Thanks
Is there a running tally?
Hi could you make a parts list but no for a fixie for a regular speed bicycle i have the same bike and i want to restore
Hi Jon, who of the gcn crew gets this bike?
I DO! Jon
Where did you get the wheels? Please advise
why dont you post a list of compomets you have bought? and the total spent?
how many teeth on that chainring?
Looking for the next video just released this was only uploaded today!! 😪😪
BB not French? Absolutely need foot retention: flat pedals + Fixie = smacked legs! The rest is a matter of choice. New cheap stuff is the easy and efficient way forward, plus looks fresh, but the hard work of shopping for much higher quality used stuff can be cheaper and end up is so oh much more classy builds... Btw those tires cost as much as the rest of the bike unless Conti pays for the plug-in ;) and doing skids on GP5000 is sacrilege!!!!