Classic Mini DIY - 998 Engine Rebuild - Part 3
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
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Parts in this Episode:
Pistons(+060) - cmdiy.co/flatt...
Main Bearings - cmdiy.co/mainb...
Rod Bearings - cmdiy.co/rodbe...
Thrust Washers - cmdiy.co/thrus...
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Facebook - / classicminidiy Thanks for watching Classic Mini DIY! Please note Classic Mini DIY assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Classic Mini DIY recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, expensive electronics, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Classic Mini DIY, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Classic Mini DIY. Only attempt your own repairs if you can accept personal responsibility for the results, whether they are good or bad. 
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Don't lube under the bearing shells .
Unless u want a spun bearing
A tip when masking off. Use a needle file to cut the tape instead of a knife. Light strokes will get great results against the edges of the metal.
Good idea I will try that out next time I'm painting something. Seems way easier than slicing the edge like I was doing.
This is great. The thrust washers either side of the middle main bearing are also there to counteract the force on the flywheel end of the crankshaft exerted by the clutch mechanism.👍🏻
You probably dont give a shit but does anyone know a method to log back into an Instagram account..?
I stupidly lost my password. I would love any tricks you can give me!
@Maximo Quinn instablaster ;)
@Dean Darwin i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out atm.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Cole - love the work you're doing, but the bearings go in dry to the block, otherwise putting engine assembly lubricant will throw the 'crush' tolerance. It also isn't needed as it is not a moving part in that area.
Thanks @Dagoly83 for the info. The Haynes manual I have indicated assembly lube should be applied to all bearing surfaces which is why I did it. I will do some more research given this info though. Do you think taking the crank back out is advised?
You have to be careful with haynes manuals as sometimes I feel they don't always capture the exact information and isn't really an engine building guide as such. A 'bearing surface' is between 2 moving parts. I would personally (and this is my opinion) would remove the crank, remove the bearings, de-grease them, install dry to the block, plastigauge for bearing tolerance against crank with all caps torqued down, remove then install with lube. Once all caps are in, THEN check for crank end float with a DTI gauge. You also need to check your ring gaps and ring land tolerances before fitting to the block. Although rings usually come pre-gapped for the bore, it will confirm it has been done properly by the shop (believe me, it has happened before!). What year is your engine? I have the original BMC manual for early 998cc engines, i'll gladly take pictures of the pages and email you?
Dagowly83
I agree, the bearings go into the block dry 👍
Yes, the bearing back surface isn't a friction area and goes in dry. Lubing it would interfere with the critical tolerances there. Having said that if such a mistake was made I would continue on with the rebuild and after the engine was run in take the crankcase out again and re-torque the main and connecting rod caps. The heat would have set the caps. This is for those engines that have easier excess from below. Just goes to show how important it is to follow manufacturers specs and assembly procedures!
Would the same apply for the pistons? Where they attach to the crank shaft, as they use the same bearings. Cheers - 2 years late but yeah..
You need to check & set if necessary the ring gap in the bore
i was thinking the same thing :/ be interesting to see how close or far the gaps were to spec straight out of the box, unlikely that all four cylinders were the same
Exelent vid. Nice and clear description of the work you were doing. Enjoyed watching 👍
Thanks, George. Some of these extra technical videos make me worry because things can get really DRY really fast. So hopefully it wasn't too bad. :-)
Great vid Cole.
Thanks, Corey!
Good video Cole, I myself am also in the middle of rebuilding an 1100 for a friend, he’s thinking of supercharging it too.
Oooooo that would be cool. If you want it featured on the channel shoot me some photos/video. classicminidiy@gmail.com
Wow your block is a A plus and there’s allot more material then the standard block
A lot more material where?
Not just the webbing on the outside but also inside the block around the sleeves and can followers. My 99H block has allot of recesses on the inside where your A plus is flattened out
Amazing work cole I love it gonna send mine over for you to rebuild... Btw your masking skills are on point haha
This makes me want to rebuild my engine now!
Dooooo itttttt
Classic Mini DIY have to get it running first haha but this gives me way more confidence to pull it and get it bored and put it back together. Pretty simple really. Haha
Love these videos, keep up the great work.
Thank you Harry!
Mega Top!!!!!!! Grüße aus Deutschland
I noticed you said the tolerance for the crankshaft endfloat is between 0.002 and 0.003 MM it should be thou and not mm altho the mm are also written on the feeler gauge with the thou
Don't put lube on the back of the bearings
👍 nice video
Thanks darryl!
Hey man, sorry the Indiegogo didn't pan out fully. Wish I could've sent more, I hope every one wants you to use the money on the car still. I would personally like to see you do the SC injection conversion, it looks pretty good and is in the right sort of range for the money you managed to raise.
Thanks for the donation anyways! I would love to do the single injection system they sell as well. I will probably toss up a video once I hear back from everyone on the campaign to see what all the viewers think I should do. I am partial to the SC injection system or a swiftune rebuilt H4 dual carb setup.
Very in-depth video Cole , great work pal 👍👍👍👋🏻👴👋🏻👴👋🏻👴teamslaphead
Thanks, Mark! :-)
Exactly what gasket sealant are you rubbing into your paper gaskets? I guess it’s not silicone?
Are use a fuel and oil safe silicone called permatex ultra black. It’s worked extremely well for me over the years and I would definitely recommend it to anyone.
Hi Cole, are you going to upload a video showing how you did the head?,
HI COLE!! so im currently rebuilding my motor and i have problem with my timing gear set. The small gear does not haver a dot or mark on it to line up with the dot on the big gear. How do i know where to place it without a punched mark? any advice would be super helpfull!! thanks
Hey! I have never seen one without the dot. I am wondering if this was a miss from your supplier. I would probably contact them and get a replacement.
@@classicminidiy Hi Cole! ok yes i also thought it was very weird! will do! maybe ill just get a new set with a chain! thanks for the reply! hope you have a great day!
Are the #1 and #3 bearings asymmetric?
I am not sure exactly what you mean. The bearings for the connecting rods are all the same but they have a small tab on one side of each bearing that gets slotted into place.
How did you get the block and head so clean?
Sand blasting?
Very cool Videos btw;)
Thanks! The head was acid washed by the machine shop. They flush all the channels and do like a super deep clean.
I took mines out of the garage after 2 years........ Was running perfectly when I parked it...... But after 2 years standing it Looks the the engine is frozen...... Any quick tips for me?
If you were trying to start it with the original fuel it might be that after two years the fuel in the tank has gone bad. It also could be simply a case of the battery being dead. The starter might also be stuck? Those are the first things that come to mind
@@classicminidiy So the battery is straight of the charger, did a load test and it seems to be all in order.
when I turn the ignition key nothing happens at all, so i removed the starter motor and then turned the key and the starter motor runs perfectly and i tested 12V at the terminal...... I put my hand there and tried turning the engine with my hand but its stuck tight
@@classicminidiy And since you touched on fuel, Most of the local fueling stations stopped selling leaded fuel here in south africa, can I use unleaded or should I use a lead additive
@@yahyaomarjee8370 I hope you’ve figured things out but if not,
1) yes you should use additives for your gas to extend life on some components like valve guides.
2) change your oil, remove spark plugs and spray lubricant in the pistons, try turning the crank shaft at the front pulley or,
3) spray a good lubricant in the pistons after removing the spark plugs, let it seat for a day, put it in gear and push it gently back and forth to free the engine. , if it all fails?
Remove engine and take it apart, good luck
Meh, I've build dozens and dozens of engines just like you did, so don't worry about lube on the back side of the bearings and clocking the piston rings. Because of the oil pressure, there will be oil everywhere anyway in no-time, also between the engine and the bearings.
And piston rings will float around anyway at higher revs.
You actually want that, to prevent scoring or localised wearing.
So Cole, no issues with the assembly of the crank.
If all the bearings are the correct size, combined with this perfect end-float, the engine will have no crank bearing issues.
But please; get a ring tool and put the connecting-rod in the vice. They're not that expensive and last a lifetime.
Check LMF piston ring quick installer on Amazon. $14 is not going to break the bank.