Dear Wayne, thank you so much for making this video! I just got a Tula machine and I'm really looking forward to getting it up and running and your video is invaluable information.
While researching this machine I came across several references that stated the Russians copied the Zundapp down to the bolt and nut scale, so you're correct. Thanks for commenting!
The Tula is a exact copy of the Zündapp Elcona 2a. Zündapp was a german motorcycle factory that made also sewing machines from 1946 up to 1958/59, the whole manufacturing that was located in Munich since 1950 turned over making mopeds, so making sewing machines was given up and sold 1960 to spain or portugal, maybe from there it went somehow to SU. In orgin it's a german design and they came in a light green like the Zündapp KS 601 (their last big four stroke motorcycle)was painted
Thank you for the information. My own research turned up anecdotal evidence that although the SU machine was a copy, the quality of the engineering wasn't as good as it was in the German machines.
Интересно ,такое челночное устройство было установлено заводом ? в России Тула имело несколько другое ,как у Лада 132 с защелкой на которой был выступ , он выполнял роль установочного пальца , шпуледержатель был съемный ,вставлялся и защелкивался защелкой , интересен и цвет ! такой в России не был - только зеленый ,оливковый
Признаюсь: изначально это была зеленая машина. Краска была в таком плохом состоянии, что ее пришлось заменить, чтобы защитить металл от ржавчины. Я увидел в музее изображение Тулы такого насыщенного красного цвета и решил, что, поскольку его все равно нужно перекрашивать, я мог бы использовать более привлекательный цвет. Спасибо за комментарий!
@@wayneschmidt490 Машину выпускали на ТОЗ это Тульский оружейный завод ,наверно у них был избыток краски военных цветов , оборудование было вывезено из Германии в качестве репарации ! выпускали не долго до 1963 г. В России ее не любили ,предпочитали машины простые с качающимся челноком ! и мастера ее тоже не любили из за ее капризности , Слабое место Льняной ремень с металлическими скобами , от попадания масла он растягивается , из за этого пропуски стежков и поломки игл ! ремень можно промыть бензином для зажигалок вытащив на верх и облить кипятком , пусть так и высохнет в свободном состоянии , сядет как стираные джинсы , потом надо будет согласовать верхний и нижний вал. по меткам , и челночное устройство часто переделывали от машины Веритас из ГДР , вот тогда машина шила отлично ! У самого есть такая , досталась от мамы как память ! мне она очень нравится если за ней ухаживать , иногда даже шью на ней , Хоть и есть дома современная😁
Dear Wayne Schmidt, I recently bought a Tula sewing machine, got so exited that I forgot to check all the parts of it. It turned out that the bobbin itself is completely missing. It was a really cheap and yet working machine, so I do not regret that I bought it and I am really exited to give it some work. Do you have any suggestion how can I replace the bobbin? Which kind of currectly available one could replace it, which brand is trustable? I intend to do some DIY solution as well and some brainstorming with my boyfriend if I cannot find a replacement bobbin for my "new" Tula. Thank you for your help in advance, and happy holiday for you and your family! Blanzs.
Dear itsmenotelse, Congratulations on your Tula! Tula bobbins are 5/16-inch thick and 13/16-inch in diameter. If you can find a modern bobbin the same size it should work. The real problem is if you have the case the bobbin fits in. If not, your only option is to keep searching the Internet for one. Thanks for writing and the best of luck with your new machine! Wayne Schmidt.
Dear Wayne, thank you for the tutorial. I have the same model at home and I'm having difficulties with it. The sewing machine specialist did maintenance on it few weeks ago and said that it works perfectly fine. I bought size 90 needles for my knitted fabrics and choose thread 120. Regulated all necessary in all places (just like in the instruction). It did somehow good but when I changed from white thread to black it just went off. All the upper part of the sewed fabric looks perfect, while the down side is a big mess with loose loops. What could be the problem?
Dear Annija, I apologize for not responding sooner. My wife and I have been busy taking care of grandchildren. At two and a half minutes into the video I point out the tensioner for the upper thread. Turning the cap clockwise increases the tension. I will ask my wife how to adjust the tension in the bobbin. I'm the restorer... she's the sewer and therefor knows a lot more than me about that. We've had other machines that had the loopy-bottom-thread problem before and fixed it, though I can't remember how. I'll check with her about that as well. Thanks for writing! I'll get back to you Friday. Sincerely,Wayne Schmidt.
I checked with my wife and she said loose loops on the bottom of the fabric are caused by too little tension in the upper thread, so it sounds like you need to tighten the upper thread tension. On our Tula, the tensioner is screwed down all the way down so that the little metal indicator tab is next to the "+" mark. I hope this helps. Wayne.
I’m so glad I found your tutorial! I have a green Tula and I love the style of it (though your red is very pretty!). I purchased a plug adapter so that it can plug into our American sockets (i got the machine from a friend in Prussia and it has their plug end). Do I still need to change the knob on the inside from 220 to 120 before using our doors the adapter take care of that? I have the original foot pedal and power cord. Thank you in advance for any insight you may have!
I don't know anything about how plug adapters work so I can't comment on whether it will take care of converting our 120 volts to 220 volts. If there is a name on the adapter, you might try entering it in a Google or RUclips search to see if anyone has posted information about it. Sorry I couldn't help. Thanks for commenting!
Wayne Schmidt Absolutely! I really enjoy your videos! So, for yours, when you changed the setting from 220 to 120, was your power cord already the US kind then and not the European style?
Wayne Schmidt Ah, that explains it. I have since discovered that the adapter I have only adapted the plug and is not a converter. Once again, I’m so pleased to have found your videos as I now know how to change the settings from 220 to 120 on my own machine! I will be playing with it tomorrow! Thank you so much!
I believe the Myna's were Russian copies of the Zundapps. What color is yours? That aside, it's amazing that two strangers can reach so easily half way around the world to converse. I'm in Southern California, USA. Thanks for commenting!
@@wayneschmidt490 Oh, that makes sense, thank you for the information. Isn't the internet a real chance of connecting people on positive subjects? = The opposite of most tv news... You have made videos about a pinball machine- another connection here: My brother collects Bally machines of the sixties and seventies, and also juke boxes and vintage vehicles. Most of his machines are placed at friend's homes or bars and cafés, so they won't take up space at his home 😀 Now that my kids are teenagers I like to realise some projects like learning to sew with my Zündapp Elcona. "She" is a dream... form follows funktion... Mine is green, looks and feels brandnew to the touch. I used to have difficulties to thread. Your video is perfect. I play it in slow motion and imitate your action.
@@LaughKiKi You may find this hard to believe, but my Addams Family Pinball machine originally came from Germany! I got it from a USA collector who had had it shipped from Germany for his collection, then sold it to me.
I have one but can you show or do you have a video of rhe tensioner spring? Mine is basically unwound and sticking out and bent. I did get it to work but on occasion the underside of the sew will have loops instead of a straight line like the top side.
Large loops on the bottom usually means there isn't enough tension on the top thread so the loops don't get pulled up tight. Tightening the top tension should help. As for the spring, the only suggestion I can offer is to find a sewing machine repair shop and hope they have something that will replace it. Good luck!
hello, i see that the bobbin shuttle is kinda different compared to mine,have you had problems with timing ? no matter what i try my needle hits the shuttle,any suggestion ?
Believe it or not that sounds familiar. I seem to remember having a similar problem when we first got ours. I couldn't figure it out some took it into a sewing machine repair shop. The man there discovered that the frame in which the bobbin holder rotates had broken loose. As the machine turned over, the frame rotated into the path of the needle. He drilled a hole into the body and used a screw to secure the frame. It's worked great ever since. It would be a huge coincidence if yours had the same problem, but it's possible. If you have a repair shop within driving distance taking the machine in might be your best option. Good luck and thanks for commenting!
I'd recommend a new. modern machine. They are cheaper, work better, are easier to use and can be fixed at any sewing machine repair shop. Older machines can be tricky to use and hard to get fixed. Either way, good luck and thanks for the comment!
I have a 1960 Tula machine and the bobbin and bobbin holder are totally different from what you show in the video. Is there a tutorial on that? Also, even with the bobbin removed from the shaft it still engages and spins, cutting out the sewing function. Any ideas on a repair or adjustment? Mine were actually bought in Latvia, not the USA.
It's interesting your machine came from Latvia. Mine came from the Ukraine. It seems these machines are all over the European market. I only have the one machine and can't help you with your different bobbin holder problem. But, these machines are recent enough that most sewing machine repair shops should be able to fix it. In fact, when we got our Tula the bobbin holder had broken loose and our local repair shop was able to fix it. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Thanks for commenting!
Дорогие друзья у вас в машинке оригинальный шпуледержатель ,а на видео от Российской промышленной машины 1022 класса,Тула это аналог немецкой машины Цундап,поищите такой челнок в Германии или закажите из России промышленное челночное устройство и ваши мастера решат проблему с установкой,хороших встреч.Когда снимаете шпульку ,то у вас должно отключиться устройство ,возможно что то надо там почистить,бензином .
Dear Wayne. I found this machine but dont even know how to use it. Your video explains a lot. But there is a problem. My machine needle breaks so fast. I dont get it. Sometimes it doesnt even go to the cavity. And bam it breaks again. Dont know what to do. Hope you can answer thank you so much.
Dear Beth, I'm sorry you're having troubles with your machine. It's difficult to figure out what's going on without seeing the machine in action, but I'll try my best. You write that the needle breaks sometimes even when, "it doesn't even go into the cavity." By 'cavity,' do you mean it breaks before it goes down the hole through the bed of the machine where it picks up the bobbin thread? It so, that sounds like the upper thread tension is so tight that as the needle moves down the thread doesn't come down with it, bends it to the side and breaks it off. Another possibility is something we had wrong on ours. The carriage that holds the bobbin is held in place with a screw. That screw broke on ours and the carriage rotated out of position. The needle would come down and strike it, breaking the needle. If that's the problem, you'll need a professional to figure out how to replace the broken screw. This may require drilling and tapping a new hole for it. I'll talk to my wife about it. She's the expert at using machines. I just get them working. Any additional information you can provide will be helpful. Thanks for commenting and good luck!
I see you have your own RUclips channel. Is there any way you can post a short video of your machine in action so I can see what's going on when it breaks a needle?
I’m restoring a Tula Model 1 and cannot figure out how to get the flywheel off so I can change the belt. I have the Russian and German manuals but the belt doesn’t seem to be mentioned. Any ideas?
I'm very sorry but I have no idea how to remove the flywheel to replace the belt. Your best bet is to take it to a sewing machine repair business and ee if they can do it. The biggest problem is going to be finding a replacement belt that fits.
If I understand what you wrote based on a Google translation from Russian to English, You're saying that the machine in this video is a clone of machines from the Elkona Firm and that other names for the Tula (or Myno) are "Volga" and "Rzhev."I hope I got that right. Thank you for the comment! Если я понимаю, что вы написали на основе перевода Google с русского на английский, вы говорите, что машина в этом видео - это клон машин от фирмы Elkona и что другие названия для Тулы (или Myno) - "Волга" и "Ржев".
@@wayneschmidt490 Absolutely right! Only sewing machines “Volga”, “Rzhev” and “Kharkov” are on “Tula”, and there are analogues. They were also made in the USSR. For example, Rzhev has only a manual drive, similar to a curved key for a car starter
Hello, new subscriber here. I asked my Ukrainian friend what the word is on the overarm and it is, indeed 'Tula'. In that fancy script, the Cyrillic letters look odd. It spells 'Тула'. Phonetically, it sounds like Tula.
Thank you for the comment and for subscribing! I have to confess that in the basic drab green or beige, these machines aren't particularly attractive. Yet these rarer reds are real eye-catchers. If you like old sewing machines, you might enjoy the follow short video of our latest restoration: ruclips.net/video/xTh-YeJzOxM/видео.html Thanks again!
I've only tried it on cloth, so I can't say. But, there are all types of leather: thin, thick, tough, soft. I wouldn't be surprised if it could take on some of them, like most machines. What type of leather were you thinking of?
@@gaborradvanszky7125 The only way to know for sure would be to try it. One thing to look into is if you could;d find a needle made especially for leather. Good luck!
Dear Wayne, thank you so much for making this video! I just got a Tula machine and I'm really looking forward to getting it up and running and your video is invaluable information.
Happy to help! Good luck with your new machine!
Looks very similar to the German Zundapp Elconamatic sewing machine. The Tula looks like a lovely machine. Thanks
While researching this machine I came across several references that stated the Russians copied the Zundapp down to the bolt and nut scale, so you're correct. Thanks for commenting!
I love the look of this machine. I want one!
Thank you for commenting!
The Tula is a exact copy of the Zündapp Elcona 2a. Zündapp was a german motorcycle factory that made also sewing machines from 1946 up to 1958/59, the whole manufacturing that was located in Munich since 1950 turned over making mopeds, so making sewing machines was given up and sold 1960 to spain or portugal, maybe from there it went somehow to SU. In orgin it's a german design and they came in a light green like the Zündapp KS 601 (their last big four stroke motorcycle)was painted
Thank you for the information. My own research turned up anecdotal evidence that although the SU machine was a copy, the quality of the engineering wasn't as good as it was in the German machines.
Интересно ,такое челночное устройство было установлено заводом ? в России Тула имело несколько другое ,как у Лада 132 с защелкой на которой был выступ , он выполнял роль установочного пальца , шпуледержатель был съемный ,вставлялся и защелкивался защелкой , интересен и цвет ! такой в России не был - только зеленый ,оливковый
Признаюсь: изначально это была зеленая машина. Краска была в таком плохом состоянии, что ее пришлось заменить, чтобы защитить металл от ржавчины. Я увидел в музее изображение Тулы такого насыщенного красного цвета и решил, что, поскольку его все равно нужно перекрашивать, я мог бы использовать более привлекательный цвет. Спасибо за комментарий!
@@wayneschmidt490 Машину выпускали на ТОЗ это Тульский оружейный завод ,наверно у них был избыток краски военных цветов , оборудование было вывезено из Германии в качестве репарации ! выпускали не долго до 1963 г. В России ее не любили ,предпочитали машины простые с качающимся челноком ! и мастера ее тоже не любили из за ее капризности , Слабое место Льняной ремень с металлическими скобами , от попадания масла он растягивается , из за этого пропуски стежков и поломки игл ! ремень можно промыть бензином для зажигалок вытащив на верх и облить кипятком , пусть так и высохнет в свободном состоянии , сядет как стираные джинсы , потом надо будет согласовать верхний и нижний вал. по меткам , и челночное устройство часто переделывали от машины Веритас из ГДР , вот тогда машина шила отлично ! У самого есть такая , досталась от мамы как память ! мне она очень нравится если за ней ухаживать , иногда даже шью на ней , Хоть и есть дома современная😁
Были бордовые, голубые, зеленые, бежевые.
Dear Wayne Schmidt, I recently bought a Tula sewing machine, got so exited that I forgot to check all the parts of it. It turned out that the bobbin itself is completely missing. It was a really cheap and yet working machine, so I do not regret that I bought it and I am really exited to give it some work. Do you have any suggestion how can I replace the bobbin? Which kind of currectly available one could replace it, which brand is trustable? I intend to do some DIY solution as well and some brainstorming with my boyfriend if I cannot find a replacement bobbin for my "new" Tula. Thank you for your help in advance, and happy holiday for you and your family! Blanzs.
Dear itsmenotelse,
Congratulations on your Tula!
Tula bobbins are 5/16-inch thick and 13/16-inch in diameter. If you can find a modern bobbin the same size it should work. The real problem is if you have the case the bobbin fits in. If not, your only option is to keep searching the Internet for one.
Thanks for writing and the best of luck with your new machine!
Wayne Schmidt.
@@wayneschmidt490 Dear Wayne, thank you so much for your help! Have a wonderful snowy Christmas and a happy new year! :)
Dear Wayne, thank you for the tutorial. I have the same model at home and I'm having difficulties with it. The sewing machine specialist did maintenance on it few weeks ago and said that it works perfectly fine. I bought size 90 needles for my knitted fabrics and choose thread 120. Regulated all necessary in all places (just like in the instruction). It did somehow good but when I changed from white thread to black it just went off. All the upper part of the sewed fabric looks perfect, while the down side is a big mess with loose loops. What could be the problem?
Also, how can you tighten the thread for this model?
Dear Annija,
I apologize for not responding sooner. My wife and I have been busy taking care of grandchildren.
At two and a half minutes into the video I point out the tensioner for the upper thread. Turning the cap clockwise increases the tension. I will ask my wife how to adjust the tension in the bobbin. I'm the restorer... she's the sewer and therefor knows a lot more than me about that.
We've had other machines that had the loopy-bottom-thread problem before and fixed it, though I can't remember how. I'll check with her about that as well.
Thanks for writing! I'll get back to you Friday.
Sincerely,Wayne Schmidt.
I checked with my wife and she said loose loops on the bottom of the fabric are caused by too little tension in the upper thread, so it sounds like you need to tighten the upper thread tension. On our Tula, the tensioner is screwed down all the way down so that the little metal indicator tab is next to the "+" mark. I hope this helps.
Wayne.
Another possibility is that when the thread was changed, the new thread didn't get between the two tensioning discs in the tensioner.
If there are loops at the bottom, the so-called "beard", then you need to configure the upper thread tension regulator
I’m so glad I found your tutorial! I have a green Tula and I love the style of it (though your red is very pretty!). I purchased a plug adapter so that it can plug into our American sockets (i got the machine from a friend in Prussia and it has their plug end). Do I still need to change the knob on the inside from 220 to 120 before using our doors the adapter take care of that? I have the original foot pedal and power cord. Thank you in advance for any insight you may have!
I don't know anything about how plug adapters work so I can't comment on whether it will take care of converting our 120 volts to 220 volts. If there is a name on the adapter, you might try entering it in a Google or RUclips search to see if anyone has posted information about it. Sorry I couldn't help. Thanks for commenting!
Wayne Schmidt Absolutely! I really enjoy your videos! So, for yours, when you changed the setting from 220 to 120, was your power cord already the US kind then and not the European style?
@@manhandledinmt The external wiring was so bad on ours I had to replace it and did so with a US standard plug.
Wayne Schmidt Ah, that explains it. I have since discovered that the adapter I have only adapted the plug and is not a converter. Once again, I’m so pleased to have found your videos as I now know how to change the settings from 220 to 120 on my own machine! I will be playing with it tomorrow! Thank you so much!
@@manhandledinmt You're very welcome and enjoy your machine!
Hello Wayne, thank you very much for this very useful presentation! My Zündapp Elcona looks like a sibling of your model. Best regards from Berlin
I believe the Myna's were Russian copies of the Zundapps. What color is yours? That aside, it's amazing that two strangers can reach so easily half way around the world to converse. I'm in Southern California, USA. Thanks for commenting!
@@wayneschmidt490 Oh, that makes sense, thank you for the information.
Isn't the internet a real chance of connecting people on positive subjects? = The opposite of most tv news...
You have made videos about a pinball machine- another connection here: My brother collects Bally machines of the sixties and seventies, and also juke boxes and vintage vehicles. Most of his machines are placed at friend's homes or bars and cafés, so they won't take up space at his home 😀
Now that my kids are teenagers I like to realise some projects like learning to sew with my Zündapp Elcona. "She" is a dream... form follows funktion... Mine is green, looks and feels brandnew to the touch. I used to have difficulties to thread. Your video is perfect. I play it in slow motion and imitate your action.
@@LaughKiKi You may find this hard to believe, but my Addams Family Pinball machine originally came from Germany! I got it from a USA collector who had had it shipped from Germany for his collection, then sold it to me.
Спасибо 👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
I have one but can you show or do you have a video of rhe tensioner spring? Mine is basically unwound and sticking out and bent. I did get it to work but on occasion the underside of the sew will have loops instead of a straight line like the top side.
Large loops on the bottom usually means there isn't enough tension on the top thread so the loops don't get pulled up tight. Tightening the top tension should help. As for the spring, the only suggestion I can offer is to find a sewing machine repair shop and hope they have something that will replace it. Good luck!
hello, i see that the bobbin shuttle is kinda different compared to mine,have you had problems with timing ? no matter what i try my needle hits the shuttle,any suggestion ?
Believe it or not that sounds familiar. I seem to remember having a similar problem when we first got ours. I couldn't figure it out some took it into a sewing machine repair shop. The man there discovered that the frame in which the bobbin holder rotates had broken loose. As the machine turned over, the frame rotated into the path of the needle. He drilled a hole into the body and used a screw to secure the frame. It's worked great ever since. It would be a huge coincidence if yours had the same problem, but it's possible. If you have a repair shop within driving distance taking the machine in might be your best option. Good luck and thanks for commenting!
how are vintage sewing machines compared to new modern ones? should i get one as a beginner?
I'd recommend a new. modern machine. They are cheaper, work better, are easier to use and can be fixed at any sewing machine repair shop. Older machines can be tricky to use and hard to get fixed. Either way, good luck and thanks for the comment!
I have a 1960 Tula machine and the bobbin and bobbin holder are totally different from what you show in the video. Is there a tutorial on that? Also, even with the bobbin removed from the shaft it still engages and spins, cutting out the sewing function. Any ideas on a repair or adjustment? Mine were actually bought in Latvia, not the USA.
It's interesting your machine came from Latvia. Mine came from the Ukraine. It seems these machines are all over the European market. I only have the one machine and can't help you with your different bobbin holder problem. But, these machines are recent enough that most sewing machine repair shops should be able to fix it. In fact, when we got our Tula the bobbin holder had broken loose and our local repair shop was able to fix it. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Thanks for commenting!
Дорогие друзья у вас в машинке оригинальный шпуледержатель ,а на видео от Российской промышленной машины 1022 класса,Тула это аналог немецкой машины Цундап,поищите такой челнок в Германии или закажите из России промышленное челночное устройство и ваши мастера решат проблему с установкой,хороших встреч.Когда снимаете шпульку ,то у вас должно отключиться устройство ,возможно что то надо там почистить,бензином .
This non-original bobin-holder by industrial Texima mashines. Original shuttle-holder is folder-form
Dear Wayne. I found this machine but dont even know how to use it. Your video explains a lot. But there is a problem. My machine needle breaks so fast. I dont get it. Sometimes it doesnt even go to the cavity. And bam it breaks again. Dont know what to do. Hope you can answer thank you so much.
Dear Beth,
I'm sorry you're having troubles with your machine. It's difficult to figure out what's going on without seeing the machine in action, but I'll try my best.
You write that the needle breaks sometimes even when, "it doesn't even go into the cavity." By 'cavity,' do you mean it breaks before it goes down the hole through the bed of the machine where it picks up the bobbin thread? It so, that sounds like the upper thread tension is so tight that as the needle moves down the thread doesn't come down with it, bends it to the side and breaks it off.
Another possibility is something we had wrong on ours. The carriage that holds the bobbin is held in place with a screw. That screw broke on ours and the carriage rotated out of position. The needle would come down and strike it, breaking the needle. If that's the problem, you'll need a professional to figure out how to replace the broken screw. This may require drilling and tapping a new hole for it.
I'll talk to my wife about it. She's the expert at using machines. I just get them working. Any additional information you can provide will be helpful.
Thanks for commenting and good luck!
I see you have your own RUclips channel. Is there any way you can post a short video of your machine in action so I can see what's going on when it breaks a needle?
I’m restoring a Tula Model 1 and cannot figure out how to get the flywheel off so I can change the belt. I have the Russian and German manuals but the belt doesn’t seem to be mentioned.
Any ideas?
I'm very sorry but I have no idea how to remove the flywheel to replace the belt. Your best bet is to take it to a sewing machine repair business and ee if they can do it. The biggest problem is going to be finding a replacement belt that fits.
Клон "Элконы" фирмы zundapp "Тула" с 1-ой по 7-ю модели, а так же были ещё "Волга" и "Ржев"
If I understand what you wrote based on a Google translation from Russian to English, You're saying that the machine in this video is a clone of machines from the Elkona Firm and that other names for the Tula (or Myno) are "Volga" and "Rzhev."I hope I got that right. Thank you for the comment!
Если я понимаю, что вы написали на основе перевода Google с русского на английский, вы говорите, что машина в этом видео - это клон машин от фирмы Elkona и что другие названия для Тулы (или Myno) - "Волга" и "Ржев".
@@wayneschmidt490 Absolutely right! Only sewing machines “Volga”, “Rzhev” and “Kharkov” are on “Tula”, and there are analogues. They were also made in the USSR. For example, Rzhev has only a manual drive, similar to a curved key for a car starter
Thank you for the information!
Hello, new subscriber here.
I asked my Ukrainian friend what the word is on the overarm and it is, indeed 'Tula'. In that fancy script, the Cyrillic letters look odd. It spells 'Тула'. Phonetically, it sounds like Tula.
Thank you for the comment and for subscribing!
I have to confess that in the basic drab green or beige, these machines aren't particularly attractive. Yet these rarer reds are real eye-catchers.
If you like old sewing machines, you might enjoy the follow short video of our latest restoration:
ruclips.net/video/xTh-YeJzOxM/видео.html
Thanks again!
can this machine sew leather?
I've only tried it on cloth, so I can't say. But, there are all types of leather: thin, thick, tough, soft. I wouldn't be surprised if it could take on some of them, like most machines. What type of leather were you thinking of?
@@wayneschmidt490 thin leather
@@gaborradvanszky7125 The only way to know for sure would be to try it. One thing to look into is if you could;d find a needle made especially for leather. Good luck!
Челночный узел не оригинальный.