It’s about time someone put a comprehensive guide for the unenlightened. I learned a lot from your videos and they are very clear and concise. Thank you very much Chris
Chris has done great work making marlin easy for everyone with this video. I have shared it with dozens of people, I suggest keeping it handy to share with your friends. If they haven't ever installed or modified their 3d printer firmware, this is most likely the best video availble. Cheers people, Print on!
Bryce, thank you for this comment. I really love helping people out. When someone finally gets there printer up and running by using my videos, that is the best feeling in the world.
Best intro on RUclips. Others need to learn from you. The long production style intros drive me crazy. Just tell me what I came here to learn. Great channel. I always find the answers I’m looking for in your videos.
I have been into 3D Printing for a few years now and just wanted to say thank you for sharing this video. I wish I would have known a lot of this when I first started. I really appreciate that you explain things as you go along. I subscribed for this alone. Keep up the good work
Thanks Chris, Subscribed. It has taken me half a day but I've managed to take my Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B from the factory installed firmware 1.0.3 all the way up to the latest 1.1.9. I've a programming background (years ago) so with your instructions it was all pretty straightforward. An invaluable guide and the Notepad++ tip and Compare versions is awesome.
Excellent video! Just what I needed in content, plus the technical aspects of the entire video was great- picture, sound, pace- all good. Thanks for making.
Just another tip: you may try the MELD file-comparison tool for adjustment of the configurations, it is even smoother because you just can take over old sections with a click.
Great video man. I am getting my Marlin learn on today. Been putting it off for far too long :) This video was super helpful. I had played around with TH3D and while it was fairly straightforward, I wanted to be able to configure Marlin from scratch so I knew how to change the settings myself going forward.
At last, a video that told me what I needed from the first minute. It is a shame that you cannot see what configuration settings you already have. I have an issue where I need to change the settings but I don't have the initial files anymore. Now I have to take all the files again, upload them and MAKE A BACKUP :)
Dude...........by faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaar the best guide for a diy 3d printer. THANKS A LOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi @Chris Riley, and thanks for the exhaustive video of Marlin settings! Great job, clear, comprehensive, and I like your voice (not making a move on U!), like ChrisFix 's one! I just flash my Anet 8 with Marlin 1.1.9, and the thing is that when I'm doing an Auto Home, my printhead stay stuck on my endstops, and that for the 3 axis... I double/triple check my settings (especially X_MIN_POS, Y_MIN_POS, Z_MIN_POS), flash marlin 3 times...and don't find back the way it "autohomed" when I was with the original fw (step back few millimeters in the 3 directions after "Home All"). Is that normal, or did I miss a thing? Thanks again man!
Hey Oliv, thanks! So it autohomes, but it doesn't double check anymore? In configuration_adv.h make sure these are all uncommented and set to a number. //homing hits the endstop, then retracts by this distance, before it tries to slowly bump again: #define X_HOME_BUMP_MM 5 #define Y_HOME_BUMP_MM 5 #define Z_HOME_BUMP_MM 2
@@ChrisRiley Thx for your reply: it does double check every time I make an autohome... I checked one more time, and this behavior, that I took for strange, is completely normal with Marlin! I made knots within my mind for nothing, but before printing again, I preferred asking some specialists! Everything is working fine, and so I printed yesterday my 2nd test cube, with nice result!
Thank you! To start I had an mk2b PCB as my heater with an aluminum plate and a printNz plate on top. Now I have switched out to an MK42 bed off a Prusa mk2.
thank you for this guide's hand holding. I was going nuts figuring out why the header files were not associating, and then I realized what was wrong. I forgot to extract the zip folder...
SUBSCRIBED -- Thanks for doing this video. I am a noob and need to move away from the Creality firmware on the CR-10S Pro. This will really help Chris!
Great video Chris! Thanks for coverage with current versions of Arduino & Marlin. The only thing I did not see you cover was the "X Y Z axis homing and auto-homing. Line 1391 covers "Individual Axis Homing" then line 1395 is uncommented for I_A_Homing_Menu but there is no menu and when uploaded my Di3 goes to x=0, y=110, z=0. Where do I find the menu to correct this to x0 y0 z0?
This is good feedback, I am getting ready to start the 1.1.9 walkthrough. Do you need to do safe homing? in the center of the bed? If so take a look at this option. #define Z_SAFE_HOMING If you are getting different home locations, take a look at these options. // Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions. #define X_MIN_POS 0 #define Y_MIN_POS 0 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 #define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE #define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE #define Z_MAX_POS 210
Thanks again Chris for excellent tutorial!! Really deep & complete flushing my B(rain)CB. What about Marlin Feeding Rates (spatially for Z) You would recommend for CNC milling ?
Yes.. I'm here to help any CAM task. I asked about feeding rates and speeds in general .. thinking that these are max allowed written values in Marlin .. I do specify all feeding rates when generating Gcode in CAM
Hey. At the beginning I would like to thank you very much for the films that are available on yt, they are very helpful though I do not understand everything because I can speak English ... Can you help me? I built a printer. Similar to I3 this is my concept ... I have a problem with X and Y engine steps I have Nema 17 engines, their steps are set to 80 in marlin. But as it prints a 20x20x20 cube, the cube comes out x19. 48 y 19.5 out of 20 ... Alenjakncalibrates the printer to the 20x20x20 cube when printing a larger cube there is a discrepancy ... 100x100 cube will print 101.5 in X and in Y 101.48 or 1.5mm bigger ... I do not understand the blacz ...? I have 20 gears. GT2 belts are buckled. The printer's geometry is in perfect condition. The dimensions and angles are preserved everywhere. With the rest of the problems during printing, I advise ... Are you somehow an experienced printer. Can you help me? Please contact me TonaTomasz@gmail.com
If you have 20 tooth pulleys then your x and y will be set to 100. Those measurements sound very close though. Maybe the pulleys are not perfectly round?
Nice video, very helpful. I try to upgrade Marlin from 1.0.0 to 1.1.9, wich is really a big step. Can you do another video about the delta in setup from 1.1.8 to 1.1.9 with the printer from this video ?
wellllllllll .......... saw the title...... grabbed a pillow and a blankie........ hit the thumbnail.... hit skip ad and curled up on the floor cause I knew what was coming....... fetal position here I come ........ after a few minutes I could straighten my legs out and was starting to understand some of what was hearing ...... got back into seat and enjoyed the rest of the vid ....... great job
@@ChrisRiley .. Yes, it helped in some way. Uploading modified Marlin to my modified Geeetech i3 except unbelievable fact - only from one/particular USB port on my laptop.. problem was advised Arduino 1.0.1. and I succeeded with 1.0.5 pls. to stay in touch oinos at gmx dot com
Hey John, I thought I answered this, but maybe it didn't take. Yes, you can run Marlin, but it's not really straightforward. There will be a video on this for sure.
This was a very good tutorial vid. I especially liked that compare plugin for notepad++....didn't know that plugin existed. Very useful. I've been trying to set up the new Marlin for my GT2560 board and sanitycheck.h has been screaming at me every time I try to verify. Trying again with a fresh download using my notepad++ with compare.
Well after multiple issues with Marlin in the IDE, I finally got it to compile a sketch (some things are different since last I used the IDE). I was going to load it after I finished my current print job. Unfortunately, I had a 'derp' moment...noticed a bed wire was barely clinging on at the board (my own shoddy wiring work) and I moved it. Blew my 10A fuse. It's amazing how difficult it is to find those things. Waiting for new fuses before I continue.
Wow...didn't think automotive fuses will fit in those blocks. I imagine you can get automotive littlefuse in there with a little post wrangling. Nice MacGiver.
Great video Chris, very concise as well as the updated one on the Feature walk through of v 1.1.9. I made a change of the different location to park the nozzle. When I changed the line with ´min +10 and max -10´ to your suggestion (a good one too) to ´max -10 and min +10´. I received an error message when verifying: ´X_Max_POS´ was not declared in this scope. I then changed it back to the original, saved it, and ran it again I received the same error message. Any suggestions?
@@ChrisRiley Chris thank you for your prompt response. That took care of it. Not sure what I did it looked correct. So, now the head will park to the right side, great. Really enjoy your videos, I binged watched all of them in three evenings, I do not sleep much. You keeping producing them and I´ll keep watching. Thank you again. : -)
Hello Chris. Enjoyed your video. However at the end of your video, where you ran the G29 autobed leveling/tramming command, the bed was visibly being moved up and down by each z probe of the bed! Was that by design?
Jonathan Lin That was because my Z axis was skewed slightly, the LOG printer gets all kinds of bad things done to it while testing. You never know what it's going to do sometimes. The G29 was more to show auto bed leveling still worked and I didn't miss changes in the firmware. Thanks for watching!
Hi there, I know I'm a little late to this video, so hope i can still get a reply. I have an Eaglemoss Vector 3 (was purchased cheap not knowing much about the subject). I have marlin installed on it, but the bed leveling never worked properly, so i decided to reinstall marlin. I can't anywhere see an answer to how you enable software endstops. Can you help me with this? My printer only has 1 endstop switch on each axis, so when you go to do the bed leveling, it goes way too far and grinds. Please any help would be appreciated, i've been awake for the past 24 hours trying to sort this lol. many thanks. good video.
You should only need 1 endstop for each everything else is controlled by bed size. Make sure these settings are correct. // The size of the print bed #define X_BED_SIZE 310 #define Y_BED_SIZE 310 // Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions. #define X_MIN_POS 0 #define Y_MIN_POS -29 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 #define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE #define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE #define Z_MAX_POS 300
Yes, it is different for every printer, just having the newest version for the CR10 using the sample config is a great place to start. Unfortunately, the stock CR10 boards don't have enough memory for a lot of the more advanced features, like power loss recovery.
@@ChrisRiley yes sir you are correct I did get that memory error when I put Marlin on thank you again love you tutorials you have a new subscriber thank you.
hello good tuto thanks Mister Chris... is it for all printer who working under arduino for resume print when crash filament or electricity or other ? a lot of video says : only cr10 ... what ... all printers more or less no ? thanks to you ... i m not starting my project , i learn more .... bye ...
Good job. A little fast for use Don’t know NOTHING people. If I put True for motor rotation and I’m wrong I have to re conf and then re down load. Or move the actual wires. ??
I couldn't see what you wrote in the #define STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR did you put a space after config? it looks like you put "(chris riley, log 1.1.8 configdefault config)" 2:40
I'm using meld to compare files, I have made a lot of changes to configuration.h and that program makes it easy to compare files. This is how the start of my configuration looks. //#define Ender2 #define Ender3 //#define AxelCoreXY //#define TestBench this way I can compile for a special printer.
Man i need your help!! I changed my board from ramps 1.4 to 1.6 cause i had problem with the heatbed. Everything worked fine in 1.4. Now that im using the 1.6 ramps the z axis makes weird noises and doesnt move up or down. Y and X axis work fine. I swapped motors from z axis to x and they work. I swapped the motor drivers and they also work. Everything is connected correctly on the board and i havent made any changes in the marlin software. Endstops work correctly. What should i do? Im posting this here cause i have had a ton of help from your videos. Keep up
Did I not say it before? This was a VERY good video! Very educational! ( thank you for that! ) with the help of my son I have put Notepad ++ and Compare on the PC and it works 100% You went a little fast with the explanation how you did it all ( that was a bit difficult for me! ) next time a little bit slower? (I know I know length of the video) ;-) again greetings from the Netherlands! Rob. ( I use these kinds of videos over and over again I sometimes forget how it should be done and then these videos are my biggest friend! )
Thanks Rob and you are right. I go through a ton of stuff quickly to keep the video time down. I try to go back and do separate videos on the more interesting bits. If there is something you want more info on just let me know and I can make a video just for that. It's great to hear these videos help others.
YES that is really true, It HELP! and VERY MUCH ALSO! ( again thanks! ) BUT now you make a big mistake! ;-) ask me what to make a video about !? LOL Well if I could say it, I would like to know more about how to deal with the ordinary everyday normal used 3D printer the best way to exchange filament i have two Prusa i3 one with bowden and one direct drive and I was already busy with it for the direckt drive, but then I thought maybe it is better to do with the bowden printer! because if you change filament at the bowden printer then you do not have to fiddle with the extruder !!! so with other words, also less chance of crushing the extruder per accident so no layer shift!!! BUT the disadvantage is How in the world do you get the filament out quickly and other colors soon? would you like to deal with this subject? changing filament, how and without shifting? maybe by a break? maybe homen everything and then exchange fillament? I would like to use this to make name tags, (That would be nice!) the top of the letters can be painted, but ......... MWAAaaaa ... and I have already changed filament without changing settings, no problemo! I was now also working on another drive set for the filament (extruder motor) kind regards from here again! (here is near Rotterdam in the NL) Rob.
I remove some of your comments to try and consolidate. I read them all, are you working on 2 printers? Are you working on a Delta or something different?
hi love your video. i have a monoprice select. converting it to ramps 1.4, is there anyway possible i could get the code prefigured for it. if you have a fee let me know gladly appreciate it. thanks
How do I know if I am working with a Cartesian machine (2:28 in video after mentioning Delta and Scara) ? Mine is a Tronxy i3 Reprap and I am waiting to hear if I have the Arduino platform.
Hi, Your video is very helpful but I have a problem I hope you can help me with. I am home builing a printer and trying to test all my steppers etc off-frame via ramps 1.4 / mega /slic3r / pronterface using cube box gcode sample print through latest Marlin 1.1.X. Obviously I do not have a nozzle or thermistors fitted so I also keep getting MINTEMP error and system shutdown and my steppers do not run. The only amendments I have made are: #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 998 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 999 and #define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 0 #define BED_MINTEMP 0 Can you help please
I am having much difficulty setting up IDEX with 1y,2x,2z,2e.... Any advice? I managed to upload a 1 nozzle version and got a dead board working again, but cannot get my file to compile correctly for IDEX.... help???
What am I missing Went to Arduino downloads and got what looks like most updated version 1.8.9 or windows store version 1.8.21 following along but mine doesn't have same tabs at top as yours does
It will just have 2 tabs now, they have restructured it, it will still work the same. You can edit the other files in notepad ++ or something like that. Or use VScode with Platformio to edit from now on.
i have not done any update since me last print that came out good and now all of the sudden my printer starts printing 10mm off the offset, any idea why? i calibrated the bed like 4 times and reSliced the file 3 times and still wont go down to Z0 and begin print. i only have printed 1 model i designed in CURA 4.0.0 and i own a new ALFAWISE U20Plus 400x400x500 Marlin v2.1.6
Hi Chris. Im setting up a Ramps 1.4 (EFB) /Arduino Mega 2560 (WiFi) for an adapted Makibox but I'll also be using this set up with a much larger 800x700x500mm printer I'll be building soon, so I wanted to test the card first; I'm stuck with Arduino 1.8.8/Hardware Folder and what, if anything to set using the Boards Manager which you didn't mention (I don't think) during this pacy video. Annoyingly Ive already had the correct setup and forgot this element when I changed things to try to upload Marlin/Repetier to a Tronxy X3A Melzi (what a nightmare); If you or anyone else can remind me what I'd have done to get the correct board recognised that'd be much appreciated. I'm fairly sure I installed Arduino AVR boards v1.6.14? I also liked the comparison tool very much, Ive been opening 2 copies of the IDE as cut-down windows and comparing my fiiles that way, your way is much better. Thanks for shring that info.
You're welcome, it just won't recognize the board? Is it a genuine arduino or a clone? If it's a clone you probably need to reinstall the ch340 driver. I have also had problems with the IDE 1.8.8, I like to use 1.8.5, it seems to work with everything.
@@ChrisRiley Ive had Upload successs with IDE 1.04, 1.85 & 1.8.8; I reloaded the CH340 an hour ago & the firmware suddenly uploaded, so, the advice I just read was (unsurprisingly) correct. Thanks. It'd worked with this combo & that driver before so I couldn't see why it wasn't working this time. Driver Reload fixes a lot of problems I suspect. I'm now disproportionately smug at finally seeing a customised_boot_screen LOGO appear on the RRDSC. 1 small step for mankind, 1 smug 'giant leap' for me. C's B Subbed.
Hi Chris... im french canadian with not great english :-) but i see a lot of ur vidéo.....Have a request.... can u make a video with explanation how to set and use babystep on marlin.? My printer is a Core XY and i use bltouch too...Thx.
I really appreciate your videos. I have a question for you and I would like to know your opinion, so I am trying to upgrade my Geeetech A20T to add a 4th extruder. Do you think is possible to use a PWM pin on the GT2560 Board and configure the pins using the marlin firmware? So when update the printer using CURA to configure the 4th extruder and create the design with 4 extruders and the GCODE will then activate each extruder? Hope this question makes sense and hope you could give me your opinion. Thank you
Hi, thank you for replying. So at the moment I have the Geetech A20T with the GT2560 Board V4 that has 3 extruders on it, my question is: Do you think is possible to add another extruder using the same board but configuring the pins using Marlin? Hope this question is more clear now and I really will appreciate your opinion. Thank you
@@lemicmelo7713 I looked up this board, you would be able to support a 4th one unless you could find a break out board. As far as I know, there isn't one for Geeetech boards at this time.
@@ChrisRiley What do you mean a break out board? Probably I couldn't understand you right, it is possible or not to configure the pin of the board using marlin?
Hello there, maybe you can help me, i have an MK2B heabed and im having issues with the mosfet, it gets really hot! first try i just soldered the Pin 1 and 2 for the bed so i got half of the beat heated, and the mosfet was ok, then i bridged Pin 2 and 3, so i can get the whole bed heated but the mosfet was f.. hot. IDK whats the issue i changed the mosfet for another of the same specs supports till 50amps and still got fricking hot, also in the bed there is a hole for a 1k resistor and leds, i need to solder the resistor and the leds there? maybe thats the issue that i dont have the 1k resistor or maybe that resistor is just for the leds...
That resistor is just for the led. Those beds can be really flaky. If the resistance of the copper is too high, you will get what you see here. You probably have some trace damage in the bed somewhere, not much you can do about it.
Chris Riley also in your explanation you touch on the gear ratio between drive pulley and steps in stepper motor. Like 16 tooth 20 tooth. No one else broke SOME of this out. Ifin you get round to it Mayhaps get a bit deeper fur us- n Idiots out here. God bless Sir.
Hi, I am installing RAMPS 1.4 into a Wanhao i3 and have been making great progress by following this tutorial. But try as I might, the sketch won't compile. The compiler gives me an 'exit status 1' message listing one of my arduino program files and complaining "undefined reference to 'main' ". On an earlier try, the undefined reference was to 'setup' and 'loop'. When I tracked down this file, it was an unhelpful MS Visual Studio file describing the standard layout of INO code. I have tried loading earlier Marlin versions with the same result. Does this mean I have to forget using Arduino if I want to access Marlin? Must I use Visual Studio instead? This error offers no guide to correction. Any help would be appreciated.
You might need to move to VScode, or you need a different version of the IDE. Try an older version like 1.8.5 they are available on there download site.
My dear respected RUclipsr , first of all i like to tale you about myself , I am a Electronics developer & Engineer & Article writer so whenever i build my projects i allows needs a enclosure or cabinet to fetes all the components and getting a professional look , so Recently i have perches a 3D printer " TRONXY P802EA"after greeting my 3D printer suddenly the control board stooped working completely and best low cost solution of control board is Arduino mega 2560 with ramps board & A4988 driver module. i decided to install ramps board and Arduino and then i saw i have to install firmware and obviously most popular Merlin firmware ,you when ever i have to install firmware first time & i need to configurations and change the settings "config.h" particularly for my 3D printer . , i have knowledge and working experience and making several project using Arduino but dont have any knowledge about those firmware /3D printing /Settings/ settings to greetings best printing quality , i alady dose manual bed leveling and z axis leveling , i am just a noobs in those matter so i need your help bro please tale me perfect all the configuration in detail . Thanks a Lot
Hello, there is no one perfect config for any printer, but there might be an example for your printer or something close. I would look into these printer configs here. github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/archive/release-2.0.5.zip
@@ChrisRiley no this is just Latest vertion of Marlin firmware but i want to perfect and best configuration for my 3D printer Tronxy P802 EA for Arduino Ramps 1.4 Board as my old melzi Board was dead suddenly so i have to use arduino & ramps
Can you post your Anycubic delta 1.1.8 , I have the same printer and running into problems. Also I have the new tmc2130 for the xzy for this printer I just get complie error all day long
I don't have 1.1.8 yet, but I do have 1.1.6 but that's not going to help you with your tmc2130s. I will be upgrading the Kossel to 1.1.8 soon. When I do I will post it. Here is 1.1.6 drive.google.com/open?id=1Z9qXm_bZNOeblTwviqBPnEVhJ-Hqnxek
@@ChrisRiley so, it turns out the motors were wired incorrectly for the ramps board. I've repinded them correctly and now it works just fine. Thank you for the response, and thank you for all your hard work making these great videos. I've learned a lot from you!
Hey chris, i have a big problem with my printer. When im trying to print the z axis wont lift at all, its printing all the layers at the same height. I did all the neccesary configs in marlin but i cant figure out what is going on.
This a stupid question but do you have to include all of the tabs when configuring marlin my marlin ino doesn't have all of the tabs in it for some reason if I want all of the tabs I have to include them still no power to anything on the printer no bed no nozzle no connect plus all of these apps printrun slic3r marlin don't really look like everyone else's I don't know what apps to open some of these files windows 8 thanks in advance for any help👍
I got rid of other version got 1.9 I guess but I didn't extract it yet. What is the best place to extract it to so that it opens in the arduino ide ?thanks for any suggestion's👍
a new issue after successful uploading modified Marlin is my intention to drive machine in XYZ with Gcode from CAM. I was using M211 to neglect end stops.. got -&+Z from few lines written code (executed correctly though, always in second try ????). Why? Any clue why it fail to run 3D milling operation ? Thanks
Hi, I wanted to update my anycubic i3 mega with marlin 1.1.9. But for this o downloaded a customize firmware because marlin has no support for this display. It only support standard LCD. And I compared it with the original marlin 1.1.9 to identified the changes ... I discovered that not only the configuration file are modified ... Also other files. Is this normal or is it normally necessary only to work with the both configuration files? And what happens of there is a new marlin version with new features like linear advance ... Is this working with every printer if I activate it in the configuration file ?
That's pretty normal for printer companies to change other files, the pins.h for example. You should be able to use the new features on most printers, but you will have to configure everything from scratch to get it to work correctly.
@@ChrisRiley Hi, I thought I can get the newest marlin version only with changing the configuration file. Because in this file I can select the correct board which is already implemented ... Ok the LCD from anycubic is specific but new features normally have to be work without changing any files because it's normally all predefined on the configuration where I can select the right board, the motor steps and all other options ...
It’s about time someone put a comprehensive guide for the unenlightened. I learned a lot from your videos and they are very clear and concise. Thank you very much Chris
Leif Scott Thanks for the comment, glad it was helpful.
Chris has done great work making marlin easy for everyone with this video. I have shared it with dozens of people, I suggest keeping it handy to share with your friends. If they haven't ever installed or modified their 3d printer firmware, this is most likely the best video availble. Cheers people, Print on!
Bryce, thank you for this comment. I really love helping people out. When someone finally gets there printer up and running by using my videos, that is the best feeling in the world.
Best intro on RUclips. Others need to learn from you. The long production style intros drive me crazy. Just tell me what I came here to learn.
Great channel. I always find the answers I’m looking for in your videos.
Thanks Scott, much appreciated.
I have been into 3D Printing for a few years now and just wanted to say thank you for sharing this video. I wish I would have known a lot of this when I first started. I really appreciate that you explain things as you go along. I subscribed for this alone. Keep up the good work
Peter Walker Thanks Peter, this is a great comment and it is much appreciated.
Wow! You really take us to school. Vary comprehensive and unsurpassed video Tutorial I have ever seen on Marlin.
Thanks for the comment! Awesome you found it useful.
Thanks Chris, Subscribed. It has taken me half a day but I've managed to take my Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B from the factory installed firmware 1.0.3 all the way up to the latest 1.1.9. I've a programming background (years ago) so with your instructions it was all pretty straightforward. An invaluable guide and the Notepad++ tip and Compare versions is awesome.
You're welcome! Thanks for the sub! I have intimate knowledge of the PRO B, it can be frustrating at times to say the least. :)
You are very easy to understand and easy to follow. Loved your presentation.
Thanks Larry, much appreciated.
Excellent video! Just what I needed in content, plus the technical aspects of the entire video was great- picture, sound, pace- all good. Thanks for making.
Thanks Joe, much appreciated.
Beautiful presentation. The best I have yet seen. Visual and diction are clear and distinct. Thanks Chris
Thank you! Thanks for watching!
Nice video, Chris!
You did a perfect overview of the Marlin configs! I didn't know what all of these settings do either.
Thanks for watching. Glad you enjoyed it.
Just another tip: you may try the MELD file-comparison tool for adjustment of the configurations, it is even smoother because you just can take over old sections with a click.
Nice! I'll check that out.
simply excellent. Would like to see special videos on auto bed leveling, probing, baby stepping. Thanks a lot.
Thanks! Yes, I intend to do more focused feature videos. I do have a auto bed leveling video out there if you want to check it out.
Great video man. I am getting my Marlin learn on today. Been putting it off for far too long :) This video was super helpful. I had played around with TH3D and while it was fairly straightforward, I wanted to be able to configure Marlin from scratch so I knew how to change the settings myself going forward.
Awesome! Thanks for watching, I am glad you found the video helpful. I should have a 1.1.9 version out soon.
At last, a video that told me what I needed from the first minute. It is a shame that you cannot see what configuration settings you already have.
I have an issue where I need to change the settings but I don't have the initial files anymore.
Now I have to take all the files again, upload them and MAKE A BACKUP :)
LOL, glad it was helpful. I do the same thing, making backups, it's just really hard to keep track of them all.
Dude...........by faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaar the best guide for a diy 3d printer. THANKS A LOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
LOL, thanks!
I have learned so much from your videos. I went from total noob to expert noob lol. Thank you Chris!!!
LOL, awesome man!
Hi @Chris Riley, and thanks for the exhaustive video of Marlin settings! Great job, clear, comprehensive, and I like your voice (not making a move on U!), like ChrisFix 's one!
I just flash my Anet 8 with Marlin 1.1.9, and the thing is that when I'm doing an Auto Home, my printhead stay stuck on my endstops, and that for the 3 axis... I double/triple check my settings (especially X_MIN_POS, Y_MIN_POS, Z_MIN_POS), flash marlin 3 times...and don't find back the way it "autohomed" when I was with the original fw (step back few millimeters in the 3 directions after "Home All").
Is that normal, or did I miss a thing?
Thanks again man!
Hey Oliv, thanks! So it autohomes, but it doesn't double check anymore? In configuration_adv.h make sure these are all uncommented and set to a number.
//homing hits the endstop, then retracts by this distance, before it tries to slowly bump again:
#define X_HOME_BUMP_MM 5
#define Y_HOME_BUMP_MM 5
#define Z_HOME_BUMP_MM 2
@@ChrisRiley Thx for your reply: it does double check every time I make an autohome... I checked one more time, and this behavior, that I took for strange, is completely normal with Marlin! I made knots within my mind for nothing, but before printing again, I preferred asking some specialists!
Everything is working fine, and so I printed yesterday my 2nd test cube, with nice result!
@@olivclt9567 Great! Glad it's working.
This is the best tutorial I found! Thanks for this great work!
Glad it was helpful!
Just discovered your channel and really like what I've seen so far. Looking forward to play through the backlog!
Great! Thanks for watching!
Great video Chris! I’ve never got into the firmware. The way you break this down it doesn’t seem to intimidating.
Thanks, it's not so bad once you spend sometime in there.
this notepad comparison thing is amazing thanks!!!!you've got yourself a new subscriber
Bruno Villedieux Awesome, glad you like it. You were subscriber 2800 btw. ;)
Great tutorial Chris!!! I am glad I found your channel. But please change your thumbnails font they are hard to read, specially with these colors
Ha, thanks for watching! I am not very good with graph design. What colors would you suggest?
What do you think of the cut down white text thumb?
Hi Chris! Awesome video, May I ask what kind if heated bed and printing surface did you use on LOG?
Thank you! To start I had an mk2b PCB as my heater with an aluminum plate and a printNz plate on top. Now I have switched out to an MK42 bed off a Prusa mk2.
Thanks Chris. The best explanation I have found. Keep it coming.
Thanks Alan! I'll do my best!
Excellent video. No nonsense, right to the point. Perfect!
Thank you so much! Recap on the new Marlin 1.1.9 will be coming soon!
thank you for this guide's hand holding. I was going nuts figuring out why the header files were not associating, and then I realized what was wrong. I forgot to extract the zip folder...
Awesome! I am glad the video helped you out.
SUBSCRIBED -- Thanks for doing this video. I am a noob and need to move away from the Creality firmware on the CR-10S Pro. This will really help Chris!
Awesome! Thanks for the sub, glad it was helpful.
Great video Chris! Thanks for coverage with current versions of Arduino & Marlin.
The only thing I did not see you cover was the "X Y Z axis homing and auto-homing. Line 1391 covers "Individual Axis Homing" then line 1395 is uncommented for I_A_Homing_Menu but there is no menu and when uploaded my Di3 goes to x=0, y=110, z=0. Where do I find the menu to correct this to x0 y0 z0?
This is good feedback, I am getting ready to start the 1.1.9 walkthrough. Do you need to do safe homing? in the center of the bed? If so take a look at this option. #define Z_SAFE_HOMING
If you are getting different home locations, take a look at these options.
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 210
Great explanation of this procedure Chris ! You have a new subscriber. Thank you.
Thank you for the sub!
Awesome Video, Best tutorial I have ever seen on Marlin, Well explained.. Excellent, thumbs up to you Chris
Thanks for watching! Comments like these are much appreciated.
Good step by step video, though the bit about the endstop triggering got me confused.
Thanks! Let me know if you need any help.
Lots of great info, just what i needed.
Thanks Chris
You're welcome!
Holy moly... absolute perfect guy with awesome tutorials!!
Thanks for watching!
:) i am trying to get Marlin with TMC2130 working with my K40 Laser on MKS Gen L and i am watching all your tutorials :)
Thanks again Chris for excellent tutorial!! Really deep & complete flushing my B(rain)CB.
What about Marlin Feeding Rates (spatially for Z) You would recommend for CNC milling ?
Ooooo, that a tough one. I would guess it would depend on the material, not really sure. I home to get a CNC project together sometime soon.
Yes.. I'm here to help any CAM task. I asked about feeding rates and speeds in general .. thinking that these are max allowed written values in Marlin ..
I do specify all feeding rates when generating Gcode in CAM
@@ffstructures Oh, yeah, that's a good question. I don't "think" Marlin has a maximum, you can get it as high as you want in the config.
Hey. At the beginning I would like to thank you very much for the films that are available on yt, they are very helpful though I do not understand everything because I can speak English ... Can you help me? I built a printer. Similar to I3 this is my concept ... I have a problem with X and Y engine steps I have Nema 17 engines, their steps are set to 80 in marlin. But as it prints a 20x20x20 cube, the cube comes out x19. 48 y 19.5 out of 20 ... Alenjakncalibrates the printer to the 20x20x20 cube when printing a larger cube there is a discrepancy ... 100x100 cube will print 101.5 in X and in Y 101.48 or 1.5mm bigger ... I do not understand the blacz ...? I have 20 gears. GT2 belts are buckled. The printer's geometry is in perfect condition. The dimensions and angles are preserved everywhere. With the rest of the problems during printing, I advise ... Are you somehow an experienced printer. Can you help me? Please contact me TonaTomasz@gmail.com
If you have 20 tooth pulleys then your x and y will be set to 100. Those measurements sound very close though. Maybe the pulleys are not perfectly round?
Nice video, very helpful. I try to upgrade Marlin from 1.0.0 to 1.1.9, wich is really a big step. Can you do another video about the delta in setup from 1.1.8 to 1.1.9 with the printer from this video ?
Yeah, I can look at that. Thanks for watching!
This was very very very helpful dude, you got a new subscriber Thank you!
Thanks for the sub!
wellllllllll .......... saw the title...... grabbed a pillow and a blankie........ hit the thumbnail.... hit skip ad and curled up on the floor cause I knew what was coming....... fetal position here I come ........ after a few minutes I could straighten my legs out and was starting to understand some of what was hearing ...... got back into seat and enjoyed the rest of the vid ....... great job
Nice! It's working!
Thanks Chris for excellent tutorial ..
You are welcome, glad it helped.
@@ChrisRiley .. Yes, it helped in some way. Uploading modified Marlin to my modified Geeetech i3 except unbelievable fact - only from one/particular USB port on my laptop.. problem was advised Arduino 1.0.1. and I succeeded with 1.0.5
pls. to stay in touch
oinos at gmx dot com
Hi Chris,
Do you think Marlin would work on the CTC board...
All the best...
John...
Hey John, I thought I answered this, but maybe it didn't take. Yes, you can run Marlin, but it's not really straightforward. There will be a video on this for sure.
@@ChrisRiley
Thank you Sir...
This was a very good tutorial vid. I especially liked that compare plugin for notepad++....didn't know that plugin existed. Very useful. I've been trying to set up the new Marlin for my GT2560 board and sanitycheck.h has been screaming at me every time I try to verify. Trying again with a fresh download using my notepad++ with compare.
Awesome! I have worked on the GT2560 a couple of times. Let me know if you still have issues. I might be able to help. Thanks for watching.
Well after multiple issues with Marlin in the IDE, I finally got it to compile a sketch (some things are different since last I used the IDE). I was going to load it after I finished my current print job. Unfortunately, I had a 'derp' moment...noticed a bed wire was barely clinging on at the board (my own shoddy wiring work) and I moved it. Blew my 10A fuse. It's amazing how difficult it is to find those things. Waiting for new fuses before I continue.
HedoBum Doh! I have replaced those with automotive fuses in the past if that helps.
Wow...didn't think automotive fuses will fit in those blocks. I imagine you can get automotive littlefuse in there with a little post wrangling. Nice MacGiver.
HedoBum Not a great fix, but you could probably make it work.
Hey Chris, very handy vid. Were you tempted to try the beta of Marlin 2?
I am very tempted, I might give it a try and see what happens. Thanks!
Great video Chris, very concise as well as the updated one on the Feature walk through of v 1.1.9.
I made a change of the different location to park the nozzle. When I changed the line with ´min +10 and max -10´ to your suggestion (a good one too) to ´max -10 and min +10´. I received an error message when verifying: ´X_Max_POS´ was not declared in this scope. I then changed it back to the original, saved it, and ran it again I received the same error message. Any suggestions?
Additional info: I just noticed that the error message say ´X_MIN_POS´ was not declared in this scope, when I changed it back to the original.
Probably just some syntax it doesn't like. Make sure it's like this. #define NOZZLE_PARK_POINT { (X_MIN_POS - 10), (Y_MAX_POS + 10), 20 }
@@ChrisRiley Chris thank you for your prompt response. That took care of it. Not sure what I did it looked correct. So, now the head will park to the right side, great.
Really enjoy your videos, I binged watched all of them in three evenings, I do not sleep much.
You keeping producing them and I´ll keep watching. Thank you again. : -)
@@dustykatz9504 You're welcome! thanks so much for watching!
This Compare plugin is so helpful. thx :)
Awesome, glad I could help.
Hello Chris. Enjoyed your video.
However at the end of your video, where you ran the G29 autobed leveling/tramming command, the bed was visibly being moved up and down by each z probe of the bed! Was that by design?
Jonathan Lin That was because my Z axis was skewed slightly, the LOG printer gets all kinds of bad things done to it while testing. You never know what it's going to do sometimes. The G29 was more to show auto bed leveling still worked and I didn't miss changes in the firmware. Thanks for watching!
Hello, I like your video very much. I want to ask you a question, how to turn on the fan to cool down when printing the second layer
Hello, thank you! That would be done in your slicer. It will tell the printer what layer to turn it on.
Thank you for your advice. How to set the G code? My fan pin is 6
@@spacedream6028 Pin 6 should be default. If it's marlin just use M106.
Hi there, I know I'm a little late to this video, so hope i can still get a reply. I have an Eaglemoss Vector 3 (was purchased cheap not knowing much about the subject). I have marlin installed on it, but the bed leveling never worked properly, so i decided to reinstall marlin. I can't anywhere see an answer to how you enable software endstops. Can you help me with this? My printer only has 1 endstop switch on each axis, so when you go to do the bed leveling, it goes way too far and grinds. Please any help would be appreciated, i've been awake for the past 24 hours trying to sort this lol. many thanks. good video.
You should only need 1 endstop for each everything else is controlled by bed size. Make sure these settings are correct.
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 310
#define Y_BED_SIZE 310
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS -29
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 300
Thanks Chris... is this information very different depending on each printer? What should I focus on with having a cr-10?
Yes, it is different for every printer, just having the newest version for the CR10 using the sample config is a great place to start. Unfortunately, the stock CR10 boards don't have enough memory for a lot of the more advanced features, like power loss recovery.
@@ChrisRiley yes sir you are correct I did get that memory error when I put Marlin on thank you again love you tutorials you have a new subscriber thank you.
@@MarkWilder68 Thanks for the sub, glad you find the content useful.
hi that's great video , i need marlin 1.1.9 video for how to activate power resume option and i want to know what is the status screen
Yes, i will be doing a 1.1.9 video very soon. There are a couple of cool new things in there.
Thanks for making this video Chris- I'm gonna give it a go!
Good Luck!
NIce Video..Can you please make a video on Marlin 2.0x Firmware flashing on MKS robin 2.4 please ?
More videos about 2.0 coming soon.
Thanks Chris...helped a lot.
Awesome, glad it helped.
hello good tuto thanks Mister Chris...
is it for all printer who working under arduino for resume print when crash filament or electricity or other ?
a lot of video says : only cr10 ...
what ... all printers more or less no ? thanks to you ...
i m not starting my project , i learn more ....
bye ...
Marlin should work for 90% of printers. 1.1.9 offers power off resume and filament run out. It's a great choice.
Good job. A little fast for use Don’t know NOTHING people.
If I put True for motor rotation and I’m wrong I have to re conf and then re down load. Or move the actual wires. ??
Thanks! For the motor changes, you can do either, they have the same effect.
Very useful for beginners, thanks a lot
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the help! Keep them coming.
Thanks for watching, will do!
I couldn't see what you wrote in the #define STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR did you put a space after config? it looks like you put "(chris riley, log 1.1.8 configdefault config)" 2:40
Yeah,, you can put anything you want in there. I usually do Name date version.
Thank you. This was very helpful!
You're very welcome, thanks for watching!
Thank you for your work on the video, it was very helpful.
Esau G Thanks for watching! You are very welcome.
I'm using meld to compare files, I have made a lot of changes to configuration.h and that program makes it
easy to compare files.
This is how the start of my configuration looks.
//#define Ender2
#define Ender3
//#define AxelCoreXY
//#define TestBench
this way I can compile for a special printer.
That's a great idea! Thanks for sharing.
Man i need your help!! I changed my board from ramps 1.4 to 1.6 cause i had problem with the heatbed. Everything worked fine in 1.4. Now that im using the 1.6 ramps the z axis makes weird noises and doesnt move up or down. Y and X axis work fine. I swapped motors from z axis to x and they work. I swapped the motor drivers and they also work. Everything is connected correctly on the board and i havent made any changes in the marlin software. Endstops work correctly. What should i do? Im posting this here cause i have had a ton of help from your videos. Keep up
I hate to say it, but it sounds like you have a bad ramps shield, the QC on these isn't very good.
Did I not say it before?
This was a VERY good video! Very educational! ( thank you for that! )
with the help of my son I have put Notepad ++ and Compare on the PC and it works 100%
You went a little fast with the explanation how you did it all ( that was a bit difficult for me! )
next time a little bit slower? (I know I know length of the video) ;-)
again greetings from the Netherlands!
Rob.
( I use these kinds of videos over and over again I sometimes forget how it should be done and then these videos are my biggest friend! )
Thanks Rob and you are right. I go through a ton of stuff quickly to keep the video time down. I try to go back and do separate videos on the more interesting bits. If there is something you want more info on just let me know and I can make a video just for that. It's great to hear these videos help others.
YES that is really true, It HELP! and VERY MUCH ALSO! ( again thanks! )
BUT now you make a big mistake! ;-) ask me what to make a video about !? LOL
Well if I could say it,
I would like to know more about how to deal with the
ordinary everyday normal used 3D printer
the best way to exchange filament
i have two Prusa i3 one with bowden and one direct drive
and I was already busy with it for the direckt drive,
but then I thought maybe it is better to do with the bowden printer!
because if you change filament at the bowden printer then you do not have to fiddle with the extruder !!!
so with other words, also less chance of crushing the extruder per accident
so no layer shift!!!
BUT the disadvantage is
How in the world do you get the filament out quickly and other colors soon?
would you like to deal with this subject?
changing filament, how and without shifting?
maybe by a break?
maybe homen everything
and then exchange fillament?
I would like to use this to make name tags, (That would be nice!)
the top of the letters can be painted, but ......... MWAAaaaa ...
and I have already changed filament without changing settings, no problemo!
I was now also working on another drive set for the filament (extruder motor)
kind regards from here again! (here is near Rotterdam in the NL)
Rob.
lol, yes, there are some tips on how to swap them out successfully. I could do something like that for sure.
Well, I didn't ask Chris for permission.. but I have thought, downloaded it an save to my Programming/Marlin file folder !!
@@ffstructures You can use any Marlin config I got. :)
the bed is 320mm-320mm x 450mm, and it is a Flsun G printer
I remove some of your comments to try and consolidate. I read them all, are you working on 2 printers? Are you working on a Delta or something different?
Nice guide, thanks alot Chris :)
BoB Thanks Bob.
hi love your video. i have a monoprice select. converting it to ramps 1.4, is there anyway possible i could get the code prefigured for it. if you have a fee let me know gladly appreciate it. thanks
I saw your email this morning. I will send you something on this.
Thank you for this great job
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi chris. so when you upload the new firmware do you need to M502 to reset the eprom to the new settings
Yes, I would to be safe, it doesn't reload eeprom after the flash.
How do I know if I am working with a Cartesian machine (2:28 in video after mentioning Delta and Scara) ? Mine is a Tronxy i3 Reprap and I am waiting to hear if I have the Arduino platform.
That machine is a Cartesian for sure.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for that info.
Fantastic Video Chris!
Thank you! Thanks for watching!
Hi,
Your video is very helpful but I have a problem I hope you can help me with. I am home builing a printer and trying to test all my steppers etc off-frame via ramps 1.4 / mega /slic3r / pronterface using cube box gcode sample print through latest Marlin 1.1.X. Obviously I do not have a nozzle or thermistors fitted so I also keep getting MINTEMP error and system shutdown and my steppers do not run.
The only amendments I have made are:
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 998
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 999
and
#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 0
#define BED_MINTEMP 0
Can you help please
Setting them both to 998 should keep them at 25c all the time, leave min temp at 5 or so.
I am having much difficulty setting up IDEX with 1y,2x,2z,2e.... Any advice? I managed to upload a 1 nozzle version and got a dead board working again, but cannot get my file to compile correctly for IDEX.... help???
I have absolutely no clue how that setup will work. I would see if John had any ideas. ruclips.net/video/O7TjyrnqV_g/видео.html
What am I missing Went to Arduino downloads and got what looks like most updated version 1.8.9 or windows store version 1.8.21 following along but mine doesn't have same tabs at top as yours does
It will just have 2 tabs now, they have restructured it, it will still work the same. You can edit the other files in notepad ++ or something like that. Or use VScode with Platformio to edit from now on.
i have not done any update since me last print that came out good and now all of the sudden my printer starts printing 10mm off the offset, any idea why? i calibrated the bed like 4 times and reSliced the file 3 times and still wont go down to Z0 and begin print. i only have printed 1 model i designed in CURA 4.0.0 and i own a new ALFAWISE U20Plus 400x400x500 Marlin v2.1.6
That sounds strange, what does the output on M503 look like? Cura might be adding something in there.
@@ChrisRiley im sorry but how would i obtain that info? what do i type in and where do i type it?
@@arletpaz8010 Download pronterface here: www.pronterface.com/ Then cable up to your printer USB and you can run the 503 command.
Super Great!! videos Chris
Thanks and thanks for watching!
Excellent Video!
Thank you very much!
Nice step by step as usual chris
I saw your octoprint tutorial but how can i connect raspberry pi to ramps?
Mohamed El-Mogy Thanks! If it's a ramps mega combo you can just cable up the USB port.
I realized it was a stupid question :D
Thanks Chris
No worries, happy to help. All questions are good ones.
Hi Chris. Im setting up a Ramps 1.4 (EFB) /Arduino Mega 2560 (WiFi) for an adapted Makibox but I'll also be using this set up with a much larger 800x700x500mm printer I'll be building soon, so I wanted to test the card first; I'm stuck with Arduino 1.8.8/Hardware Folder and what, if anything to set using the Boards Manager which you didn't mention (I don't think) during this pacy video. Annoyingly Ive already had the correct setup and forgot this element when I changed things to try to upload Marlin/Repetier to a Tronxy X3A Melzi (what a nightmare); If you or anyone else can remind me what I'd have done to get the correct board recognised that'd be much appreciated. I'm fairly sure I installed Arduino AVR boards v1.6.14? I also liked the comparison tool very much, Ive been opening 2 copies of the IDE as cut-down windows and comparing my fiiles that way, your way is much better. Thanks for shring that info.
You're welcome, it just won't recognize the board? Is it a genuine arduino or a clone? If it's a clone you probably need to reinstall the ch340 driver. I have also had problems with the IDE 1.8.8, I like to use 1.8.5, it seems to work with everything.
@@ChrisRiley Ive had Upload successs with IDE 1.04, 1.85 & 1.8.8; I reloaded the CH340 an hour ago & the firmware suddenly uploaded, so, the advice I just read was (unsurprisingly) correct. Thanks. It'd worked with this combo & that driver before so I couldn't see why it wasn't working this time. Driver Reload fixes a lot of problems I suspect. I'm now disproportionately smug at finally seeing a customised_boot_screen LOGO appear on the RRDSC. 1 small step for mankind, 1 smug 'giant leap' for me. C's B Subbed.
@@goldbunny1973 Awesome, I do love a custom boot screen.
Hi Chris... im french canadian with not great english :-) but i see a lot of ur vidéo.....Have a request.... can u make a video with explanation how to set and use babystep on marlin.? My printer is a Core XY and i use bltouch too...Thx.
Hey! I think I show how to do this in a video somewhere. I will try to find it.
@@ChrisRiley ok thx
@@ChrisRiley do you find it ?? have marlin 1.1.9
@@PlacideBolack Sorry, I totally forgot, try this one, about 8:30 in to the video ruclips.net/video/FEUAC1umFNk/видео.html
@@ChrisRiley Thx Chris i see ur vidéo and thx again for ur help¸
I really appreciate your videos.
I have a question for you and I would like to know your opinion, so I am trying to upgrade my Geeetech A20T to add a 4th extruder. Do you think is possible to use a PWM pin on the GT2560 Board and configure the pins using the marlin firmware? So when update the printer using CURA to configure the 4th extruder and create the design with 4 extruders and the GCODE will then activate each extruder?
Hope this question makes sense and hope you could give me your opinion.
Thank you
You would need another stepper driver. What board does it have now? Are you talking about adding another board to support the 4 extruder?
Hi, thank you for replying.
So at the moment I have the Geetech A20T with the GT2560 Board V4 that has 3 extruders on it, my question is: Do you think is possible to add another extruder using the same board but configuring the pins using Marlin?
Hope this question is more clear now and I really will appreciate your opinion.
Thank you
@@lemicmelo7713 I looked up this board, you would be able to support a 4th one unless you could find a break out board. As far as I know, there isn't one for Geeetech boards at this time.
@@ChrisRiley What do you mean a break out board? Probably I couldn't understand you right, it is possible or not to configure the pin of the board using marlin?
@@lemicmelo7713 Yes, you can configure the pins in Marlin, but probably not for a 4th extruder.
Thankyou!!! you just save my life
You're welcome!
Hello there, maybe you can help me, i have an MK2B heabed and im having issues with the mosfet, it gets really hot! first try i just soldered the Pin 1 and 2 for the bed so i got half of the beat heated, and the mosfet was ok, then i bridged Pin 2 and 3, so i can get the whole bed heated but the mosfet was f.. hot. IDK whats the issue i changed the mosfet for another of the same specs supports till 50amps and still got fricking hot, also in the bed there is a hole for a 1k resistor and leds, i need to solder the resistor and the leds there? maybe thats the issue that i dont have the 1k resistor or maybe that resistor is just for the leds...
That resistor is just for the led. Those beds can be really flaky. If the resistance of the copper is too high, you will get what you see here. You probably have some trace damage in the bed somewhere, not much you can do about it.
@@ChrisRiley thanks for the reply, then I'll just buy another MK2B dual hotbed, thank you Chris.
this is the useful video and well explain about marlin good job dude keep up the good videos for us the noobies
Thanks George! It's great to know these videos are helping others.
sooooooooooooo boring but such is GREAT information....... Been looking for this for 6 months
I know, it's so dry, I bore myself, but a necessary evil. Thanks for the comment.
Chris Riley also in your explanation you touch on the gear ratio between drive pulley and steps in stepper motor. Like 16 tooth 20 tooth. No one else broke SOME of this out. Ifin you get round to it Mayhaps get a bit deeper fur us- n
Idiots out here.
God bless Sir.
I can probably work something up for that. I will see what I can do.
Hi, I am installing RAMPS 1.4 into a Wanhao i3 and have been making great progress by following this tutorial. But try as I might, the sketch won't compile. The compiler gives me an 'exit status 1' message listing one of my arduino program files and complaining "undefined reference to 'main' ". On an earlier try, the undefined reference was to 'setup' and 'loop'. When I tracked down this file, it was an unhelpful MS Visual Studio file describing the standard layout of INO code. I have tried loading earlier Marlin versions with the same result. Does this mean I have to forget using Arduino if I want to access Marlin? Must I use Visual Studio instead? This error offers no guide to correction. Any help would be appreciated.
You might need to move to VScode, or you need a different version of the IDE. Try an older version like 1.8.5 they are available on there download site.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks. I have moved on to your tute about VS code etc. Excellent, Thanks.
Great stuff Chris thanks
Thanks! You bet! Should have a feature update out on 1.1.9 soon.
I would be more then willing to send you your own set of tmc2130 I’m just lost on how to get this to work
Super helpful for the reprap I'm building!!
Awesome! Hope it's going well!
My dear respected RUclipsr , first of all i like to tale you about myself , I am a Electronics developer & Engineer & Article writer so whenever i build my projects i allows needs a enclosure or cabinet to fetes all the components and getting a professional look , so Recently i have perches a 3D printer " TRONXY P802EA"after greeting my 3D printer suddenly the control board stooped working completely and best low cost solution of control board is Arduino mega 2560 with ramps board & A4988 driver module.
i decided to install ramps board and Arduino and then i saw i have to install firmware and obviously most popular Merlin firmware ,you when ever i have to install firmware first time & i need to configurations and change the settings "config.h" particularly for my 3D printer . , i have knowledge and working experience and making several project using Arduino but dont have any knowledge about those firmware /3D printing /Settings/ settings to greetings best printing quality , i alady dose manual bed leveling and z axis leveling , i am just a noobs in those matter so i need your help bro please tale me perfect all the configuration in detail . Thanks a Lot
Hello, there is no one perfect config for any printer, but there might be an example for your printer or something close. I would look into these printer configs here. github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/archive/release-2.0.5.zip
@@ChrisRiley no this is just Latest vertion of Marlin firmware but i want to perfect and best configuration for my 3D printer Tronxy P802 EA for Arduino Ramps 1.4 Board as my old melzi Board was dead suddenly so i have to use arduino & ramps
how do you set the software endstops if I don't have mechanical ones?
The software endstops just set it internally, you can use the M211 command to turn them on/off.
Thanks you so much I really do appreciate it
I know this comment is a year old, but I just saw that it never got a reply. Thank you so much for watching the video.
Can you post your Anycubic delta 1.1.8 , I have the same printer and running into problems. Also I have the new tmc2130 for the xzy for this printer I just get complie error all day long
I don't have 1.1.8 yet, but I do have 1.1.6 but that's not going to help you with your tmc2130s. I will be upgrading the Kossel to 1.1.8 soon. When I do I will post it. Here is 1.1.6 drive.google.com/open?id=1Z9qXm_bZNOeblTwviqBPnEVhJ-Hqnxek
Great video like the notepad++ checking
Thanks! Love notepad++
So I followed your setup, however, all my motors do is buzz when I try and move them, they won't turn. What could I have done wrong?
What board do you have? You might have some PWM settings you need to set.
@@ChrisRiley so, it turns out the motors were wired incorrectly for the ramps board. I've repinded them correctly and now it works just fine. Thank you for the response, and thank you for all your hard work making these great videos. I've learned a lot from you!
@@vn1500g3 Awesome, glad you got it fixed!
Any configuration for Marlin if I use this on my CTC printer? Thank you in advance
I've been looking for one and haven't found any yet. If I do there will be a video for sure.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you for fast respond. my CTC board burn, try to replace with Ardurino ramps 1.4
Perfect. Thank you!
Thank you!
Hey Chris on the preheat option. Mine has PLA and ABS can I add another one or others if I change it in a list of the Marlin software?
You can add others, but it's a whole lot of trouble rewriting code and such. It's way more trouble than it's worth.
@@ChrisRiley understood
Hey chris, i have a big problem with my printer. When im trying to print the z axis wont lift at all, its printing all the layers at the same height. I did all the neccesary configs in marlin but i cant figure out what is going on.
Is it a custom built printer? Are you using Marlin?
@@ChrisRiley yes it's a diy printer, im using marlin and pronterface
@@christost7968 Do you think it is a hardware issue? Has it ever worked? What board are you using?
@@christost7968 It could be a stepper driver issue. It could be a lot of things. What board do you have?
This a stupid question but do you have to include all of the tabs when configuring marlin my marlin ino doesn't have all of the tabs in it for some reason if I want all of the tabs I have to include them still no power to anything on the printer no bed no nozzle no connect plus all of these apps printrun slic3r marlin don't really look like everyone else's I don't know what apps to open some of these files windows 8 thanks in advance for any help👍
Hey, so if you only see some of the files, you probably need to try extracting it again. Extract all before you try to open it in Arduino.
I got rid of other version got 1.9 I guess but I didn't extract it yet. What is the best place to extract it to so that it opens in the arduino ide ?thanks for any suggestion's👍
@@wishicouldarduino8880 Hey, you can extract it anywhere, desktop is fine. Then you can just go in and click on the .ino file.
@@ChrisRiley I've tried it all it powers the backlite to the LCD and the end stops but nothing else I'm dumbfounded as to how to get it working .
a new issue after successful uploading modified Marlin is my intention to drive machine in XYZ with Gcode from CAM. I was using M211 to neglect end stops.. got -&+Z from few lines written code (executed correctly though, always in second try ????). Why? Any clue why it fail to run 3D milling operation ? Thanks
It's because you can go in the negative. Try disable software min and max endstops.
Hi,
I wanted to update my anycubic i3 mega with marlin 1.1.9. But for this o downloaded a customize firmware because marlin has no support for this display. It only support standard LCD.
And I compared it with the original marlin 1.1.9 to identified the changes ...
I discovered that not only the configuration file are modified ... Also other files. Is this normal or is it normally necessary only to work with the both configuration files?
And what happens of there is a new marlin version with new features like linear advance ... Is this working with every printer if I activate it in the configuration file ?
That's pretty normal for printer companies to change other files, the pins.h for example. You should be able to use the new features on most printers, but you will have to configure everything from scratch to get it to work correctly.
@@ChrisRiley Hi, I thought I can get the newest marlin version only with changing the configuration file. Because in this file I can select the correct board which is already implemented ... Ok the LCD from anycubic is specific but new features normally have to be work without changing any files because it's normally all predefined on the configuration where I can select the right board, the motor steps and all other options ...