Please note, this is not an ultimate fix for all cracking issues, it only covers one of the most frequent reasons. For a detailed guide please click here - racingbrick.com/2020/04/lego-technic-42110-land-rover-defender-ultimate-repair-guide/
3:06 Even my wheels rotate backwards also the fake engine pistons work (I'm talking about my 4th gear /HI) Should I open my model and check the U joints again? Or I should check something else too...
Same here. I finished the build last night and the rear drivetrain runs sluggish and cracks when driven around. U-joints are fine. I really think the problem is in the rear drivetrain because running the front wheels goes fairly smooth. It's the rear wheels that are the problem. All the connections seem to be right, at first glance. Anyone got a fix or point in the right direction?
Great video. To all people who still have problems after this mod. Don't slide the u-joints all the way to the end of the axles. Let it be losen a little bit.The shaft will be restricted in it's movement If you slide the u joints all the way to the end of the shafts, which in turn will cause cracking noise and stop movement of the wheels. This solution together with the solution of racingbrick fixed my problem and the gearbox is running like a dream now.
Guys, I’ve spent a lot of time trying to find out what was the issue that caused the cracking noise and I think that the most popular “mistake” is in the fake engine itself. Little 2:1:1 pieces that are rotated by the axle in the engine might not be placed perfectly and then it becomes much harder to rotate while touching the wrong fake cylinder (red one). And sometimes when it cracks, the engine stops working on any other speed. It is because of the dark bluish grey connectors between the seats (and near the + - sticker). They just get further from each other and don’t let the gears rotate properly.
Thank you for this fix video. After final assembly, I didn't have a cracking issue but noticed the selectors didn't seem to do anything. Spent 20 minutes trying to do a minimal disassembly and noticed that one of the joints was off set. Normally I keep them in line, but not this time. Fixed and the issue was resolved. Thanks.
Thank God for this video! I was A convinced I’d screwed up my first ever Lego model at the tender age of 41 and B virtually stripped it as far as I could thinking I’d reversed the difs... you’re right the instructions are wrong on the alignment of the universal joints... many thanks!
I had the same clicking issue and was able to properly align the U-joints without any disassembly (I accessed them from under the vehicle and through the passenger side door). I no longer experience any clicking at all and it runs silently in neutral, as intended! Thank you for the helpful, informative video and for saving my build! :D
I have managed to solve the sticking wheel issue!! Took me a full strip down to find it. 1. Turn the vehicle upside down. 2. Look for the main gear on the rear differential. 3. Locate the small dark grey cog to the rear if the main diff gear. 4. Double check you have installed item "6261374" correctly page 495 of the manual. (Small grey + - o connector) Let me know if this solves your issue 😎🤙
If you still have issues I suggest to remove the body, then go through the whole drive train and double check everything as it is presented in this video - ruclips.net/video/t9VQGoqhOFs/видео.html It is also possible to disconnect the shafts going to and from the gearbox and check the sections separately by turning the gears manually. Here's a hint how can you remove the body in bigger pieces - facebook.com/Racingbrick/photos/a.642361079222005/1486442398147198/
Hello. Like your video very much. Just a short question. I have checked my U-joints and other stuff you proposed. And still have the same issue. Funny, when I put gear in R, all gears work perfectly without cracking sound (HI, LOW, all gears) and motor simulating cylinders movements. Only in D I have explained issues. Any comment on that? Thanks.
@@tom7956 I suggest to check this video - ruclips.net/video/t9VQGoqhOFs/видео.html In R your gearbox is not involved, the fake engine is driven directly so hi/lo and the gears does nothing. I suggest to remove the body, disconnect the shafts going to and from the gearbox and check the sections separately
I only have this issue when moving the defender forward in drive high or low, but when I move the defender backwards, even in drive high or low (or reverse - yes I know R bypasses) there are no cracks, albeit the pistons don't move completely smooth. Why is it cracking when my U joints are aligned?
I just finished stage one and found that when I spun one wheel the other was reversed. I reversed the differential multiple times without luck. I ended up tearing it apart. Right before attaching the gear box I tested the wheels and they spun the same way. After I attached it they were reversed. I've triple checked the gearbox. Do you know what's going on? I'm probably just going to continue.
Thank you very much for your videos. I had the tension build, cracking issue in Hi 3rd and 4th, official Lego directions were wrong! Adjusted my u joints as shown here, and problem solved! You rock dude!
That need to set UJ's correctly is very well known in motor engineering. Odd that Lego got one of them wrong. Well done for finding it and making this video. BobUK
Had an older manual, the 2 u-joints orientation was wrong, no clicking sound but pistons wouldn't run. aligned them per your recommendations and solved my issue. Thanks!
SOLUTION FR + EN/ SOLUTION IN ENGLISH (translated by browser) BELOW FRENCH Si comme moi lors du premier montage, vous avez eu cette frustration en essayant votre nouveau Land Rover. Dans mon cas, après le premier montage et en dépit que tout soit bien monté ET que les arbres de transmission soient bien alignés, les vitesses craquaient en Low ou en High à partir de la 3ème vitesse. La 4ème vitesse en High craquait à mort. Bref, sans grand espoir, j’ai tout de même tenté un démontage et remontage complet MAIS en veillant à laisser pour CHAQUE engrenage (ou TOUT AUTRE PIÈCE TOURNANTE/MOBILE) un petit espace (juste ce qu’il faut pour que ça ne frotte pas), afin qu’il y ait un minimum de frottements entre les pièces mobiles et les pièces fixes. Ce qui a son importance vu le nombre d’axes et d’engrenages par lequel s’opère la transmission depuis les roues jusqu’aux 6 cylindres. Et là miracle, toutes les vitesses marchent sans craquer, même si ça manque toujours de fluidité (en 4ème High surtout). Mais ça ne craque plus jamais ! Tout ce que je peux vous dire, pour ceux qui (re)montent, c’est de bien tester la boite à vitesse (directement en 4ème High) dès que vous arrivez à l’étape de la pose du volant, en mettant les 4 roues en place au préalable bien sûr. N’hésitez pas à la faire rouler en l’accompagnant sur 2 à 3 mètres pour vous faire une bonne idée et ajuster si besoin est. Et une fois que c’est acceptable pour vous, vous pouvez continuer la suite en veillant à ne pas trop malmener la structure afin de ne pas compromettre les différents serrages établis. En espérant que ça en aidera pas mal et courage à ceux qui doivent redémonter. J’ai moi-même longuement hésiter à le faire sans savoir si ça en vaudrait le coup mais je ne pouvais pas me résigner à avoir un Lego à 150€ dont la fonction principale ne marche qu’à moitié. ____ If like me during the first assembly, you had this frustration while trying your new Land Rover. In my case, after the first assembly and despite everything being well assembled AND that the drive shafts are well aligned, the gears creaked in Low or in High from the 3rd gear. 4th gear in High creaked to death. In short, without much hope, I still tried a complete disassembly and reassembly BUT making sure to leave for EACH gear (or ANY OTHER ROTATING PART / MOBILE) a small space (just enough to keep it from rubbing step), so that there is a minimum of friction between the moving parts and the fixed parts. This is important given the number of axes and gears through which transmission takes place from the wheels to the 6 cylinders. And there miracle, all speeds work without cracking, even if it still lacks fluidity (especially in 4th High). But it never cracks again! All I can tell you, for those who (re)build, is to test the gearbox (directly in 4th High) as soon as you get to the stage of fitting the steering wheel, putting the 4 wheels in place beforehand of course. Do not hesitate to roll it by accompanying it for 2 to 3 meters to get a good idea and adjust if necessary. And once it is acceptable to you, you can continue following it while being careful not to manhandle the structure too much so as not to compromise the various tightenings established. Hopefully it will help a lot and courage for those who have to restart. I myself have long hesitated to do it without knowing if it would be worth it but I could not resign myself to having a Lego at 150 € whose main function works only halfway.
Thanks for this video, along with alot of people i thought i had done some thing wrong during the build. It's just going to be a display piece so my mind is at ease knowing this was a common problem.
Great video - my model suffered both issues, but now running much better - thanks! Very informative generally on the universal joint alignment too, I had no idea that it mattered.
Wow I hate it when I hear this noise when I try to play with my new LEGO Technic 42110 Land Rover Defender, but thanks to this video I can now play with my new LEGO Technic 42110 Land Rover Defender in peace.
3:06 Even my wheels rotate backwards also the fake engine pistons work (I'm talking about my 4th gear /HI) Should I open my model and check the U joints again? Or I should check something else too...
So I built mine with the help of all of your videos (very recently I may add) and there was no cracking...at first. Now in high gears there seems to be cracking and the output is not at a constant speed. What do I do?
Thank you soooooo much. Great advice, it fixed the problem, I am really glad you made this video. Just finished bag 2, I really enjoyed construction but this little bit was frustrating. Well done!!
Thanks for the great video. I've just got this set and the instructions have been corrected. It shows the correct alignment of the universal joints as you suggest.
I made the Defender and looked carefully at all gears and orientation of the U-joints. No cracking noise when moving the Defender slow. At higher speed there is still cracking noise, despite I checked all your advised checkpoints.
During my last 2 medicopter shift, I spent my freetime to build this set. It was so frustrating to hear this creepy noise. I started to search the web instantly, and found this video very soon. I did everything as it mentioned, but first, I didn't get a good result. Double checked everything, finally I found out, that a pin is a bit out of it's place. Took that back, than everything worked as it should be. Thx! A+
That's a nice explanation Getting better every review And really helps me a lot Keep going, keep helping us Better that the one who lives in Poland 😃😃😃
I checked everything three times, reconnected the UJ at least ten times, tried every other advice, also I followed the instructions so close, it was not even fun building it. Now I still have that ******* cracking and I feel like Im going insane.. nothing helps, so I will have to take it all apart and build again... what a great thing to spend money on, last model I bought. ever.. thanks for thorough manual though..
I wouldn't really spend this much time with it. It is possible to make it work without cracking, but even then you let it sit for a month and it will crack.
Thanks, we had only one of the universal joints out of line so the clicking was a bit quieter. You can remover the shaft by taking the front seats out. All sorted now.
Fantastic. Thanks so much for sharing. This fixed my set and is now working well. I emailed Lego 6 days ago about my set not working but have not heard a thing from them.
Just like land rover! It's a fantastic copy of the original 🤣 ! One thing remains : do the forum of this vehicle in order to resolve the lot of problems that have the land rovvies!
I am getting cracking when in D, and I can see/hear the tension built up in the gears. Don’t know how to fix, as I’ve gotten all the build correct, as far as I can tell. U joints are oriented correctly, as are the differentials.
Thanks to you very much, this problem make me can't sleep after finish building . At first, I think is there any wrong building made by me ? And now, after watching your video , I fix it ! It done!
I did everything you said and still had some clicking in hi and lo 3rd and 4th gear. What I figured out is that Lego put the 2 differentials in backwards so I flipped them around and now I have no issue at all in any gear combination
I am in the middle of building a motorized mod, with all sorts of snaps, crackles and pops. I read the hypoallergenic Vaseline is OK to dab on gears, but other people say it will melt the plastic over time.
I changed the U-Joints and my connector in the center holding the axle of the DNR selector is in place but I still get cracks at that location, any solutions?
At 2:11, the right image is step 89 on page 59 of the instructions. I just got this set 2 days ago and although my book has the same picture, the online pdf instructions shows the correct alignment of the u-joints in the inset. I just realized that although the inset is wrong in the book and in this video, the main image shows the u-joints correctly aligned.
i have watched the video multiple times and still cant figure out how to put the axels correctly. Could you make a quick video of you having the stock version and then slowly showing us how to place the axels properly?
That thing with the + and - on it, if you scroll it all the way to the - and put it in drive, it cracks, but then when you scroll it however many times you want to in the + direction it doesnt crack, im not sure if its for everyone, or just me,
I am not totally sold on your recommendation. I have properly aligned both universal joints according to your instructions. My main concern is that the gearbox works incredibly fine when the car moves in reverse (i.e., backwards), regardless how hard you push it, even in Hi-4th gear. On the contrary, when you push the car 'drivewards' the gear box is a complete mesh in 3rd and 4th gears. I suspect it has to do with torsional torques in the shafts, and I would like to know if somebody else is having issues with it.
I did not say that the U-joints can be the only source of the problems, I suggest to check my pinned comment above. Btw in reverse the gearbox works incredibly fine because it does not drive anything, in reverse the fake engine is driven directly bypassing the gearbox.
@@RacingBrick Thanks for your answer. I know that the gearbox works fine in reverse because the 'selectors' are bypassed. What I meant is that when you have the model in 'Drive' mode with Hi + 4th gear, you can push it either frontwards or backwards. In the latter my gear box works like clockwork. However, pushing the car frontwards produces cracking over 3th gear. Probably, I am going to rebuild the car in 'British mode', to see whether I can reverse that behaviour (frontwards vs. backwards) or not.
I have disasembled the model completely and gone back to step 1. I intended to rebuilt the model alla 'British' but in the end, instead of flipping right to left and left to right, I found it easier to make two small changes: in steps number 4 and number 134, I just swapped the position of the differentials. Of course, in steps number 89 and number 90 I have properly aligned the U-joints, as originally suggested by RacingBrick. Also, I have paid careful attention to assemble the gears with enough gaps to reduce friction at all times. Now, my Land Rover's gear box runs like soft butter, whithout barely any sign of friction when pushing it forward.
@@BorjaVarona_at_YT Swapping the direction of the rear and front differentials worked for me also! I had tried adjusting every gear I could access without a complete rebuild. There was cracking from the gears only when moving forward in D on the two highest gears. Now there's only cracking when moving backwards in D on the two highest gears. As you shouldn't really reverse in D, this is not a problem. :)
Mine cracks in 4 gear, and the wheels rotate when I push it forward and lift it, just like showed in the video, but the U-joints are assembled the right way, as far as I can tell 🤷🏼♂️
i had to remove the gearbox because of the clicking sound. the clicks stop the engine from moving in every gear. i tried every possible fix including DESTROYING AND REBUILDING the whole car and still had no change. now it runs on one speed and is like most one speed Technic cars in my collection. i have built numerous Technic cars and trucks and have never had anything like this happen.
My issue is everytime I move it forward in drive it will crack, it wont even back up when I have it in reverse. I have taken the front and rear diffs out three times realigning and still nothing fixes it. Am I going crazy or is it just a design flaw?
I did everything you said but nothing works for me. When I put it in drive it clicks and were the gear is in the wheel area to make the wheel move it the gear keeps coming off when I have it secured in place. The gear box barely moves. When I put it in reverse it's works. The problem is the gear selectors.
You’re guide is amazing, and it stopped cracking in drive, but the fake engine won’t work and when I go in the low or high differential mods it still cracks :/ Amazing video though!
I aligned properly the joints but in 3rd and 4th gear i still have some issues, the engine doesn't make any weird noise but the wheels roll backwords when I lift the car up. Please help I can't find a solution (I already redone the entire build but nothing)
ok so i have mine cracking when on HI but only when i push it forward.. everything is connected properly, U joins too, i saw this before assembly.. looks like i have to rotate both diffs? :( :( :(
Hi guys! Went through all these amazing videos but still facing the cracking issue While in D and hi gears, I feel kind of stiffness I'm pretty sure I've assembled everything in a good way. When I push the Def forward, after stopping it, the red long shaft makes another turn. Did it happen to some of you? What could be? Gears too tight? Thanks!
I probably need to rebuild mine. The gearbox has a bit of rolling lag before it moves the pistons and there is generally just some slop in the gears. Going back over the pages multiple times, everything looks to be in the right place. And I have no clicking or missing. The gearbox just isn't that impressive I guess...
So mine seems like it is having the same issue, but aligning the u-joints does not fix it. It works perfectly in R. But when in D, it binds up and builds that tension that spins the wheels when you lift them up.
I have this problem on mine too I aligned them properly but then one came off when I just finished the build so I had to try and put it back on but forgot to realign them properly and it would've been too hard anyways because the whole body was in the way so my two choices are taking the whole thing apart or just don't use the engine
Gert Heb ik ook gemeld bij Lego. Als je zelf rijd ga na ongeveer 1 meter het rijden moeilijker, til de auto op en het achter wiel draai naar achteren. Dat is het probleem dat niet alle mogelijkheden werken zoals beweerd.
It is actually possible to build the model with a properly working drivetrain and without building up tension or cracking, but everything needs to be perfectly aligned and well balanced.
![[Ep27] Что произошло за 2 года с набором LEGO 42110 Land Rover Defender](/img/1.gif)
Please note, this is not an ultimate fix for all cracking issues, it only covers one of the most frequent reasons. For a detailed guide please click here - racingbrick.com/2020/04/lego-technic-42110-land-rover-defender-ultimate-repair-guide/
now i just hear clicking instead of cracking and the wheels do not recoil
Ya thanks for the ultimate build guide or whatever it was called cuz that explained the solution much better
Thank you very much I appreciate all the work!
3:06 Even my wheels rotate backwards also the fake engine pistons work (I'm talking about my 4th gear /HI)
Should I open my model and check the U joints again? Or I should check something else too...
Same here. I finished the build last night and the rear drivetrain runs sluggish and cracks when driven around. U-joints are fine. I really think the problem is in the rear drivetrain because running the front wheels goes fairly smooth. It's the rear wheels that are the problem. All the connections seem to be right, at first glance. Anyone got a fix or point in the right direction?
Wow, Lego genuinely did go over and above when they made this set, it has design issues and causes grief, just like a real Land Rover 👍
Funny....
Ha! Comedian
But keeps on ticking!
True!
And what car do U have a Ford Fiesta mate
Is this guy a Certified Land Rover Technician tho?
That’s the warranty void then
considering the amount of people I helped in the past few months, I definitely deserve that certification :)
Great video. To all people who still have problems after this mod. Don't slide the u-joints all the way to the end of the axles. Let it be losen a little bit.The shaft will be restricted in it's movement If you slide the u joints all the way to the end of the shafts, which in turn will cause cracking noise and stop movement of the wheels. This solution together with the solution of racingbrick fixed my problem and the gearbox is running like a dream now.
Hi, you mean the axle within itself (the one which has u-joints at both ends) or the axles coming from the gearbox to which the u-joints get attached?
Also the fact that the U-joints work at a very high angle contributes to the problem.
Thank you, I rebuilt the chassis 3 times thinking I messed something up as I had the same issue with the wheels binding when pushing forward
sam cas me too😑
I never thought I needed this video,
I don’t even own this thing
Same
I had
I am getting it for christmas I'm hoping
@@EvillRat Did you get it?
It was only a matter of time before car repair videos got a Lego version!
I just though it was authenticity.
didnt want to ruin 111
Lol
Same
Nobody
Me Trying to silently turn on my electric stove 3am 0:06
lmfao🤣😂😅
My land Rover still cracks, I built it 2 times
Guys, I’ve spent a lot of time trying to find out what was the issue that caused the cracking noise and I think that the most popular “mistake” is in the fake engine itself. Little 2:1:1 pieces that are rotated by the axle in the engine might not be placed perfectly and then it becomes much harder to rotate while touching the wrong fake cylinder (red one). And sometimes when it cracks, the engine stops working on any other speed. It is because of the dark bluish grey connectors between the seats (and near the + - sticker). They just get further from each other and don’t let the gears rotate properly.
Thank you for this fix video. After final assembly, I didn't have a cracking issue but noticed the selectors didn't seem to do anything. Spent 20 minutes trying to do a minimal disassembly and noticed that one of the joints was off set. Normally I keep them in line, but not this time. Fixed and the issue was resolved. Thanks.
Thank God for this video! I was A convinced I’d screwed up my first ever Lego model at the tender age of 41 and B virtually stripped it as far as I could thinking I’d reversed the difs... you’re right the instructions are wrong on the alignment of the universal joints... many thanks!
Awesome. Thank you. I didn’t had the cracking issue but the engine speed wasn’t correct. That small change fixed that!!
Not all superheroes wear capes! Thank you @RacingBrick!
I had the same clicking issue and was able to properly align the U-joints without any disassembly (I accessed them from under the vehicle and through the passenger side door). I no longer experience any clicking at all and it runs silently in neutral, as intended! Thank you for the helpful, informative video and for saving my build! :D
No one:
When the cracking noise is still there:
*Visible depression*
I have managed to solve the sticking wheel issue!!
Took me a full strip down to find it.
1. Turn the vehicle upside down.
2. Look for the main gear on the rear differential.
3. Locate the small dark grey cog to the rear if the main diff gear.
4. Double check you have installed item "6261374" correctly page 495 of the manual. (Small grey + - o connector)
Let me know if this solves your issue 😎🤙
If you still have issues I suggest to remove the body, then go through the whole drive train and double check everything as it is presented in this video - ruclips.net/video/t9VQGoqhOFs/видео.html
It is also possible to disconnect the shafts going to and from the gearbox and check the sections separately by turning the gears manually.
Here's a hint how can you remove the body in bigger pieces - facebook.com/Racingbrick/photos/a.642361079222005/1486442398147198/
Hello. Like your video very much. Just a short question. I have checked my U-joints and other stuff you proposed. And still have the same issue. Funny, when I put gear in R, all gears work perfectly without cracking sound (HI, LOW, all gears) and motor simulating cylinders movements. Only in D I have explained issues. Any comment on that? Thanks.
@@tom7956 I suggest to check this video - ruclips.net/video/t9VQGoqhOFs/видео.html
In R your gearbox is not involved, the fake engine is driven directly so hi/lo and the gears does nothing. I suggest to remove the body, disconnect the shafts going to and from the gearbox and check the sections separately
@@RacingBrick i watched your video changed details and my Landover actually doesn't crack.
I fixed it with your help
I only have this issue when moving the defender forward in drive high or low, but when I move the defender backwards, even in drive high or low (or reverse - yes I know R bypasses) there are no cracks, albeit the pistons don't move completely smooth. Why is it cracking when my U joints are aligned?
I just finished stage one and found that when I spun one wheel the other was reversed. I reversed the differential multiple times without luck. I ended up tearing it apart. Right before attaching the gear box I tested the wheels and they spun the same way. After I attached it they were reversed. I've triple checked the gearbox. Do you know what's going on? I'm probably just going to continue.
Thank you very much for your videos. I had the tension build, cracking issue in Hi 3rd and 4th, official Lego directions were wrong! Adjusted my u joints as shown here, and problem solved! You rock dude!
That need to set UJ's correctly is very well known in motor engineering. Odd that Lego got one of them wrong. Well done for finding it and making this video. BobUK
Slap some WD40 on it and it will fix it.
Had an older manual, the 2 u-joints orientation was wrong, no clicking sound but pistons wouldn't run. aligned them per your recommendations and solved my issue. Thanks!
SOLUTION FR + EN/ SOLUTION IN ENGLISH (translated by browser) BELOW FRENCH
Si comme moi lors du premier montage, vous avez eu cette frustration en essayant votre nouveau Land Rover. Dans mon cas, après le premier montage et en dépit que tout soit bien monté ET que les arbres de transmission soient bien alignés, les vitesses craquaient en Low ou en High à partir de la 3ème vitesse. La 4ème vitesse en High craquait à mort. Bref, sans grand espoir, j’ai tout de même tenté un démontage et remontage complet MAIS en veillant à laisser pour CHAQUE engrenage (ou TOUT AUTRE PIÈCE TOURNANTE/MOBILE) un petit espace (juste ce qu’il faut pour que ça ne frotte pas), afin qu’il y ait un minimum de frottements entre les pièces mobiles et les pièces fixes. Ce qui a son importance vu le nombre d’axes et d’engrenages par lequel s’opère la transmission depuis les roues jusqu’aux 6 cylindres. Et là miracle, toutes les vitesses marchent sans craquer, même si ça manque toujours de fluidité (en 4ème High surtout). Mais ça ne craque plus jamais ! Tout ce que je peux vous dire, pour ceux qui (re)montent, c’est de bien tester la boite à vitesse (directement en 4ème High) dès que vous arrivez à l’étape de la pose du volant, en mettant les 4 roues en place au préalable bien sûr. N’hésitez pas à la faire rouler en l’accompagnant sur 2 à 3 mètres pour vous faire une bonne idée et ajuster si besoin est. Et une fois que c’est acceptable pour vous, vous pouvez continuer la suite en veillant à ne pas trop malmener la structure afin de ne pas compromettre les différents serrages établis. En espérant que ça en aidera pas mal et courage à ceux qui doivent redémonter. J’ai moi-même longuement hésiter à le faire sans savoir si ça en vaudrait le coup mais je ne pouvais pas me résigner à avoir un Lego à 150€ dont la fonction principale ne marche qu’à moitié.
____
If like me during the first assembly, you had this frustration while trying your new Land Rover. In my case, after the first assembly and despite everything being well assembled AND that the drive shafts are well aligned, the gears creaked in Low or in High from the 3rd gear. 4th gear in High creaked to death. In short, without much hope, I still tried a complete disassembly and reassembly BUT making sure to leave for EACH gear (or ANY OTHER ROTATING PART / MOBILE) a small space (just enough to keep it from rubbing step), so that there is a minimum of friction between the moving parts and the fixed parts. This is important given the number of axes and gears through which transmission takes place from the wheels to the 6 cylinders. And there miracle, all speeds work without cracking, even if it still lacks fluidity (especially in 4th High). But it never cracks again! All I can tell you, for those who (re)build, is to test the gearbox (directly in 4th High) as soon as you get to the stage of fitting the steering wheel, putting the 4 wheels in place beforehand of course. Do not hesitate to roll it by accompanying it for 2 to 3 meters to get a good idea and adjust if necessary. And once it is acceptable to you, you can continue following it while being careful not to manhandle the structure too much so as not to compromise the various tightenings established. Hopefully it will help a lot and courage for those who have to restart. I myself have long hesitated to do it without knowing if it would be worth it but I could not resign myself to having a Lego at 150 € whose main function works only halfway.
Getting this tmw. I’ll keep this in mind.
Thanks for this video, along with alot of people i thought i had done some thing wrong during the build. It's just going to be a display piece so my mind is at ease knowing this was a common problem.
Great video - my model suffered both issues, but now running much better - thanks! Very informative generally on the universal joint alignment too, I had no idea that it mattered.
Wow I hate it when I hear this noise when I try to play with my new LEGO Technic 42110 Land Rover Defender, but thanks to this video I can now play with my new LEGO Technic 42110 Land Rover Defender in peace.
3:06 Even my wheels rotate backwards also the fake engine pistons work (I'm talking about my 4th gear /HI)
Should I open my model and check the U joints again? Or I should check something else too...
So I built mine with the help of all of your videos (very recently I may add) and there was no cracking...at first. Now in high gears there seems to be cracking and the output is not at a constant speed. What do I do?
Thank you soooooo much. Great advice, it fixed the problem, I am really glad you made this video. Just finished bag 2, I really enjoyed construction but this little bit was frustrating. Well done!!
Thank you 🙏. This has been really helpful! Keep up the good work!
The hero we needed, but not the one we deserve.
Also make sure the inner U joint doesn't slide into the 24 tooth gear.
Thanks for the great video. I've just got this set and the instructions have been corrected. It shows the correct alignment of the universal joints as you suggest.
I'm already lost 10 seconds into the video, still give an A+ for the effort for this whole vid
I really have to say thank you
I was struggling and thinking about demolish and redo from start everything
Great job
I made the Defender and looked carefully at all gears and orientation of the U-joints. No cracking noise when moving the Defender slow. At higher speed there is still cracking noise, despite I checked all your advised checkpoints.
During my last 2 medicopter shift, I spent my freetime to build this set. It was so frustrating to hear this creepy noise. I started to search the web instantly, and found this video very soon. I did everything as it mentioned, but first, I didn't get a good result. Double checked everything, finally I found out, that a pin is a bit out of it's place. Took that back, than everything worked as it should be. Thx! A+
Örülök hogy tudtam segíteni :)
@@RacingBrick esetleg abban még tudnál segíteni, hogy hol lehet rá beszerezni valami terepesebb gumit és felnit?
@@Memmaao a 9398 gumijai mennek rá erre a felinre amik ballonosabbak, viszont az kanyarodáskor beleér a kerékívbe.
@@RacingBrick köszi! Kár, hogy ilyen utcai gumival jött ki... Egy terep gumi bitang jól mutatna rajta!
What a clinical eye! I think I have heard the same crack noise in other sets, maybe it will be solved with this
I just bought this and this video is very useful thank you for making this!
That's a nice explanation
Getting better every review
And really helps me a lot
Keep going, keep helping us
Better that the one who lives in Poland 😃😃😃
This isnt just a lego issue. People with insane lifts on their vehicles snap axles and driveshafts all the time and wonder why.
sorry but it still dose't work for me can you help me?
Looks like LEGO have fixed the manual now. I'm up to this step on my Defender and both of the joints are in the correct position.
I checked everything three times, reconnected the UJ at least ten times, tried every other advice, also I followed the instructions so close, it was not even fun building it. Now I still have that ******* cracking and I feel like Im going insane.. nothing helps, so I will have to take it all apart and build again... what a great thing to spend money on, last model I bought. ever.. thanks for thorough manual though..
I wouldn't really spend this much time with it. It is possible to make it work without cracking, but even then you let it sit for a month and it will crack.
I don’t even have this or need to fix this but I’m here and I’m watching this
Hi, I tried to fix my Defender with your solution, but, still, there is cracking noise when gearbox is set on higher gears.
Thanks, we had only one of the universal joints out of line so the clicking was a bit quieter. You can remover the shaft by taking the front seats out. All sorted now.
The thing is a nightmare to take apart, hopefully this will fix my issue.
After this, if it's still not working, check if differential are in the right direction. step 4 and 136. It fixed my model :)
Thanks for the clear explanation!
Fantastic. Thanks so much for sharing. This fixed my set and is now working well. I emailed Lego 6 days ago about my set not working but have not heard a thing from them.
That's great to hear, glad I could help! :)
Just like land rover! It's a fantastic copy of the original 🤣 ! One thing remains : do the forum of this vehicle in order to resolve the lot of problems that have the land rovvies!
4:35 that little red gap shown was the problem with mine. Thank you so much!! No more cracks and all I hear the pistons moving :)
I am getting cracking when in D, and I can see/hear the tension built up in the gears. Don’t know how to fix, as I’ve gotten all the build correct, as far as I can tell. U joints are oriented correctly, as are the differentials.
Thanks to you very much, this problem make me can't sleep after finish building . At first, I think is there any wrong building made by me ? And now, after watching your video , I fix it ! It done!
I did everything you said and still had some clicking in hi and lo 3rd and 4th gear. What I figured out is that Lego put the 2 differentials in backwards so I flipped them around and now I have no issue at all in any gear combination
I am in the middle of building a motorized mod, with all sorts of snaps, crackles and pops. I read the hypoallergenic Vaseline is OK to dab on gears, but other people say it will melt the plastic over time.
I changed the U-Joints and my connector in the center holding the axle of the DNR selector is in place but I still get cracks at that location, any solutions?
At 2:11, the right image is step 89 on page 59 of the instructions. I just got this set 2 days ago and although my book has the same picture, the online pdf instructions shows the correct alignment of the u-joints in the inset. I just realized that although the inset is wrong in the book and in this video, the main image shows the u-joints correctly aligned.
i have watched the video multiple times and still cant figure out how to put the axels correctly.
Could you make a quick video of you having the stock version and then slowly showing us how to place the axels properly?
Thx for the fix! I also used a bit of mineral oil on the gears, it helps.
That thing with the + and - on it, if you scroll it all the way to the - and put it in drive, it cracks, but then when you scroll it however many times you want to in the + direction it doesnt crack, im not sure if its for everyone, or just me,
I am not totally sold on your recommendation. I have properly aligned both universal joints according to your instructions. My main concern is that the gearbox works incredibly fine when the car moves in reverse (i.e., backwards), regardless how hard you push it, even in Hi-4th gear. On the contrary, when you push the car 'drivewards' the gear box is a complete mesh in 3rd and 4th gears. I suspect it has to do with torsional torques in the shafts, and I would like to know if somebody else is having issues with it.
I did not say that the U-joints can be the only source of the problems, I suggest to check my pinned comment above. Btw in reverse the gearbox works incredibly fine because it does not drive anything, in reverse the fake engine is driven directly bypassing the gearbox.
@@RacingBrick Thanks for your answer. I know that the gearbox works fine in reverse because the 'selectors' are bypassed. What I meant is that when you have the model in 'Drive' mode with Hi + 4th gear, you can push it either frontwards or backwards. In the latter my gear box works like clockwork. However, pushing the car frontwards produces cracking over 3th gear. Probably, I am going to rebuild the car in 'British mode', to see whether I can reverse that behaviour (frontwards vs. backwards) or not.
I have disasembled the model completely and gone back to step 1. I intended to rebuilt the model alla 'British' but in the end, instead of flipping right to left and left to right, I found it easier to make two small changes: in steps number 4 and number 134, I just swapped the position of the differentials. Of course, in steps number 89 and number 90 I have properly aligned the U-joints, as originally suggested by RacingBrick. Also, I have paid careful attention to assemble the gears with enough gaps to reduce friction at all times. Now, my Land Rover's gear box runs like soft butter, whithout barely any sign of friction when pushing it forward.
@@BorjaVarona_at_YT Swapping the direction of the rear and front differentials worked for me also! I had tried adjusting every gear I could access without a complete rebuild. There was cracking from the gears only when moving forward in D on the two highest gears. Now there's only cracking when moving backwards in D on the two highest gears. As you shouldn't really reverse in D, this is not a problem. :)
Can't believe I missed that in the instructions, ty
Ok mine were actually already aligned and I still get cracks
Thanks a lot for the solution! Is it normal to have the crackig even after implementing this solution for the highest(4th) gear?
It is normal, I suggest to check the link in the pinned comment for some background information
Do you connect the red axle with the same colour, or the opposite, as I find it difficult to manage it? Could you please make a tutorial?
Mine cracks in 4 gear, and the wheels rotate when I push it forward and lift it, just like showed in the video, but the U-joints are assembled the right way, as far as I can tell 🤷🏼♂️
Hey my Lamborghini rear wheels spin in opposite directions. Do I have to re build? Thanks
Mine doesny make any noise. Is mine not a true land rover?
Pls help me.
I dont know how to fix it
same. this set is bs. worst lego building experience ever.
But why is my landlover still cracking??!!? 😡
Thank you i was thinking on it for 6 months thank you very much
i had to remove the gearbox because of the clicking sound. the clicks stop the engine from moving in every gear. i tried every possible fix including DESTROYING AND REBUILDING the whole car and still had no change. now it runs on one speed and is like most one speed Technic cars in my collection. i have built numerous Technic cars and trucks and have never had anything like this happen.
I did everything you said but it didn’t work. I think there is something wrong with the gear at the back of my Lego Range Rover
The solution that worked for me. Swap the side of the «dark grey » toothed disk in both steps N.4 and N.134. The english side. And both on same side.
My issue is everytime I move it forward in drive it will crack, it wont even back up when I have it in reverse. I have taken the front and rear diffs out three times realigning and still nothing fixes it. Am I going crazy or is it just a design flaw?
You saved me hours, thank you
Why is the orange piece in the Motor doesn't moving? I think it has to roll?
If my rear wheels are binding after phase 2 of building should i rebuild ?
I don't even own a Lego why am I even here lmao
this is actually quite impressive though, all of those parts operating just like a real land rover
Guess what? No cracking, finally! Thanks! :)
thank you! fixed my issue even after rebuilding it a second time!
This whole sounds like a technical service bulletin for Land Rover mechanics 😂
I did everything you said but nothing works for me. When I put it in drive it clicks and were the gear is in the wheel area to make the wheel move it the gear keeps coming off when I have it secured in place. The gear box barely moves. When I put it in reverse it's works. The problem is the gear selectors.
The gear fell out and when I put back in, the gear box and the pistons stopped working.
You’re guide is amazing, and it stopped cracking in drive, but the fake engine won’t work and when I go in the low or high differential mods it still cracks :/ Amazing video though!
This literally saved me! Thank you!
I aligned properly the joints but in 3rd and 4th gear i still have some issues, the engine doesn't make any weird noise but the wheels roll backwords when I lift the car up. Please help I can't find a solution (I already redone the entire build but nothing)
There's no ultimate solution other than checking the drivetrain section by section for any misalignments
Hi , whats motors and box are you using on the wheel so I can get this to show the movement
ok so i have mine cracking when on HI but only when i push it forward.. everything is connected properly, U joins too, i saw this before assembly.. looks like i have to rotate both diffs? :( :( :(
Or you can just simply accept the cracking...:)
I have a similar problem with the Porsche 911 GT3 RS. Is there a fix for it?
I did it but I still hear the cracking!🤔🙁😢
Hi guys!
Went through all these amazing videos but still facing the cracking issue
While in D and hi gears, I feel kind of stiffness
I'm pretty sure I've assembled everything in a good way.
When I push the Def forward, after stopping it, the red long shaft makes another turn. Did it happen to some of you? What could be? Gears too tight? Thanks!
I'm about to build this, so good to keep in mind!
I probably need to rebuild mine. The gearbox has a bit of rolling lag before it moves the pistons and there is generally just some slop in the gears. Going back over the pages multiple times, everything looks to be in the right place. And I have no clicking or missing. The gearbox just isn't that impressive I guess...
So mine seems like it is having the same issue, but aligning the u-joints does not fix it. It works perfectly in R. But when in D, it binds up and builds that tension that spins the wheels when you lift them up.
I suggest to use this - racingbrick.com/2020/04/lego-technic-42110-land-rover-defender-ultimate-repair-guide/
I have this problem on mine too I aligned them properly but then one came off when I just finished the build so I had to try and put it back on but forgot to realign them properly and it would've been too hard anyways because the whole body was in the way so my two choices are taking the whole thing apart or just don't use the engine
Gert
Heb ik ook gemeld bij Lego. Als je zelf rijd ga na ongeveer 1 meter het rijden moeilijker, til de auto op en het achter
wiel draai naar achteren. Dat is het probleem dat niet alle mogelijkheden werken zoals beweerd.
It is actually possible to build the model with a properly working drivetrain and without building up tension or cracking, but everything needs to be perfectly aligned and well balanced.
Another tip: Fidget with the gears and see which gear has the least cracking