Of course. People need to know whether they enjoy the hobby or not before investing a lot of money into it, and such honesty will incline them to buying their product later if they do, so it's a win/win.
oh please so gullible, it's marketing. just not direct... like there was no need at all to bring up his specific product in this video. just a sneaky way to bring back those brushes in people consciousness. Not to mention he has a link to his brushes/stuff before any links to the other stuff he talked about lol.
@@MrSteelface96 Does that mean your freewill was over ridden and you were coerced into clicking the link and purchasing? If not then what is your point? Obviously anyone who produces something intends to sell it. If you created a product would you instead feel shame and conceal it from public knowledge? You say others are gullible but this is just stupid.
These guys are so humble. They know if they help a newbie take their first steps in the hobby they will remember it. And later on, once established, they may remember that by buying their products later on.
i think decent lighting is a must before some of these things. i bought an Led desk lamp for less than £20 and it has transformed my ability to get better results.
@@britzolas if you haven't accidentally taken a sip of paint water are you really a miniature painter? The worst is once I accidentally "cleaned" my brush in my expensive whiskey instead of the paint cup...
Things I would consider for the final 10 - Makeup brush for drybrushing - Milliput for any base modeling and gap fixing needs - Gloss varnish for shiny details - Matte varnish finish spray
A thin layer of gloss varnish can also help your washes flow very nicely right where you want it to, it also acts as a sort of "save button" incase you mess something up
When you are starting dollar stores / supermarkets are your best bet. You can buy almost everything from the list there (except for paints). And the best tip of them all is: Buy less than you think you need, start the hobby and buy the things you need as you go - it will save you a ton of money.
if you dont have one of those sponge pads for the wet palette, you can just use a couple layers of paper towel as a substitute, you'll just have to replace it everytime you use it
Or a microfiber washcloth. Heck I used sponge bricks for years. And I met a dude who would lay his palette paper on a soaked piece of cardboard, definitely single use, but it worked for him.
A good alternative idea is the "everyday carry" of painting for you/other painters in the hobby. We all have a massive range of paints, brushes and tools. But which are the defaults that we always reach for? Paints might change, but what are the things that you use on every project.
Just wanted to give you guys a shout out. Thank you. Just finished my first army for 40 K. And I have been terrified for the last three months to paint due to so many options. You guys really broke it down and simplified it enough for me to have a good start. I’ve now just ordered the majority of your recommendations. I greatly appreciate this. Specially, as you said this hobby is expensive, so you just save me a ton of money. Thank you big thumbs up and I subscribed after this video look forward to more. Also, I would like to see a finished video of all, the Giants that you were working on that I have taken you almost 18 months if you get around to it.
I spend Money on a Harder and Steenbeck Evolution Squidmar 2024 Black Edition and it just arrived in the Mail. I am so hyped. Also it is just stunning and so nice to handle. Am so happy :)))
Great video. I'd love to see a version of this for more intermediate level where you do want to invest in quality tools & materials but don't need every option or the absolute highest tier.
You forgot a Drybrush, Brush, because for like a Necron Army Drybrushing is literally demanding and i love it on biger modells for metall. For basing Buy freakin Bird sand! it has little Chalk in there and you get the 5kg package for 2 Dollars, then glue it on the base let it dry it gets hard like crazy than you paint it with cheap Acrilic Paint from a dollar shop and then drybrush it. I doo all my bases like this and then add kork, static gras tuffts and stuff( mostly is do kork before)
Just use a small make up brush for a drybrush. Dirt cheap and tough. Agree with you on the bird sand or if you want really fine texture, chinchilla dust.
Its baffling to me that this is a "do this when you start" video and they are already suggesting using Sable brushes, and buying citadel paints.. also they waste 20th of the budget on tools and primer.. I spent £8 on 30 size 00 brushes.. sure theya rent great.. but only 2 have lost the tip and i am using it until they break..
@@MarkOfTzeentch If the objective was purely to save cash, why the hell are we in this hobby?! I get your point but you have to admit that using a quality brush for detail work does make a difference. Same with decent primers. It saves so much heartache further down the process that it’s worth investing in a decent brand from the start.
Yes.. i agree it helps massively.. however, I wouldnt tell a beginner trying to get into the hobby "oh btw buy this £10 brush, make sure you treat it right, or else the only thing it'll be good for is drybrushing or terrain.. @@simonrobinson4761
awesome idea and i loved that you actually did not recommend your own product, thats just unimaginable these days, actually getting advice instead of jsut getting advertisement. really appreciate it
Literally cut the bottom part of a coke bottle when I started. Made a notch on the rim and it worked wonders cause the ridges on the bottom were actually really nice to get the paint out of the brush lol
As someone who has been building injection mold plastic gunpla for years, I sincerely have no idea how GW gets away with asking such outrageous prices for their minis.
It's our fault, we keep paying the ridiculous prices. Hopefully the growing 3d printed market will force them to make some changes. Doubt it though. They'll go down with to the ship before they slash prices
Elitism. I know dudes who feel superior when they buy GW minis, compared to others who buy other brands or print their own stuff. And their painting skills also suck in comparison with the others.
They get away with it because in order to play the game in GW tournies or even warhammer shops etc, you HAVE to use their models. GW has a captive market because you're paying for the game as well as the models.
@@thrrax never ever heard about this. Are you sure? For me it just seems like they like that universe instead of random models. Just like you are fan of a movie or video game eg Zelda, then why would you buy some random stuff. But Yeah painting skills on Warhammer is some of the worst Ive seen but thats because some people just want to play so they dip the minis in 3 different paints and they are done
@@VanDiemensLander good luck detecting 3D-printed models in a painted army :). From my experience it's not as much tournament factor as that non-original models can be more difficult to assemble and paint for a beginner. Resin sometimes behaves funny with regular glue for example and large models often come warped and require adjustment before assembly. Also newcomers mostly have no knowledge of the alternatives. That helps GW to keep their ridiculous prices.
I want to let you guys know, when I first started painting, I got a Redgrass wet palette, based on your recommendation, with a bag of like 100 extra sheets on Amazon for like $35 and it's been a dream. So, for anyone who is new balks at the price of the thing, it's worth it.
Great Vid, as always. Thanks Guys. I thought it was funny that it's all about how to START in miniature painting, but the basing materials section is for more advanced modellers. I glued sand and painted in browns and greens for the first 10 years of the hobby :)
I can add that very good advice if you are going to buy Citadel colors and live near a Warhammer store, then you can buy 10 colors and then you get the most expensive of them. But unfortunately this only applies to purchases in their physical stores. Another good tip is that you can very often find grass and the like at significantly better prices in stores for model railways and they also have other consumables, such as paint.
Ironically enough I just visited a modelling store for ww2 vehicles and trains. They have SO MUCH stuff and it's so cheap. Tools, static grass, bushes, paints, and let's not forget the washes. Aall at a reasonable price. A rust wash for £2.50 and the dude was kind enough to prepare samples lmao
another really nice thing for basing assuming you are just interesting in making a simple ground texture are vallejo texture pastes, they are WAYYYY cheaper than the citadel ones they come in huge amounts, and are great for dry brushing, adding pigments etc
i still use that same type of super after 20 years, works the best, and activator is super useful to have a round. I gave up on generic plastic glue a long time ago
A good desk lamp and stationary magnifying glass that I don't have to hold or support, really helped me out a ton. Magnifying glass was less than $15 at hobby lobby Nice informative video. Was fun to watch!
You can even be cheaper with the pigments and buy square pastels sticks, scrape them with your hobby knife and tadaaa. Works like a charm and many colors available you can mix together
I’d like to recommend the “Two Thin Coats” paint line if they are available in your area/lgs. My lgs sells them cheaper that citadel paints and the quality is as good. Plus they have a very simple triad to follow.
This video is great even for an avid painter and modeler as it gives us alternatives to use if we go out to a store or a convention to not bring our more expensive equipment with us. And I can’t wait to get my squigmar evolution black that’s in transit now in the US.
As a beginner myself, I'd say that you really don't need any fancy bases. If you're using superglue, it's easy enough to remove a mini from a base with a craft knife, so for now it's probably easier to focus on one side of the craft than working on the other. You can always replace that base later if you so choose. Also, depending on what mini you're using (such as Nolzur ones for D&D or a bust) then you probably don't need an elaborate base at all. It's probably better to spend the money on a decent light, or putting it towards that starter airbrush, or maybe one pot of gloss varnish and one pot of matt varnish.
for coffee stir sticks another option if your willing to fork over a whole dollar is dollar stores you can get packages of 100 or more for a dollar i know this cause i am coming from a D&D background and alot of my terrain and doors and map pieces were made with these
Great video, thanks for all of the info! Just a heads up, that black matte rustoleum paint is not matte whatsoever. It’s at minimum, semi-gloss and will not take standard acrylic paint easily. Your paint will bead up and not go down in an even layer. Unfortunately I bought 4 cans off of Amazon and didn’t try them out until after the return window was already up, so after I prime my models I have to go back over the primer with a matte clear spray so that they’re usable.
Considering primer, I've tried Rust-Oleum for a while but it gives some mixed results. Sometimes the coverage is uneven and paint layer is a bit on the thick side. Lately I switched to Kudo primers and they work almost as good as Citadel ones, much better than R-O.
I always toyed around with the idea of getting into painting minis but needing spray paints, compressors and air brushes were just big turn-offs for me. I don't really have a place where I can do a whole lot of spray-based painting.
You really don't need spray, there are different methods to painting, I've been painting minis for half a year and only last month did I buy a can of spray paint
I do a ton of different arts and I can confidently say the citadel primer works way better than rustoleum for minis, as the rustoleum is noticeably thicker.
I use empty spice jars to use for rinsing water because they fit in those MDF painting stations and also make me less likely to just toss a brush in there
I will tell you you're going to have a hell of a time getting a hold of Vallejo paints if you are in the US. Their logistics chain is horrendous. The new army painter fanatic line is actually quite good for the money.
The word you were looking for was jetty or dock. Fishermen can call it a peg, but that's because they call any specific space they fish at a peg, including just a plaque with a number next to a canal, lake or river.
I really like Duncan's 2 thin coats range of paints if they're available at you friendly local game store. Great coverage. GW contrast paint is also awesome as long as you prime whit or light grey.
Brygga = Jetty Been living in Stockholm for 6yrs, so have had many friends do the, (surprised Pikachu face) then "fyfan, vad är ordet för (obscure item here)" So got used to giving them the word after a lot of pointing. lol This is PERFECT timing, as have finally started purchasing models again.. after a 23yr break from 40k. It finally dragged me back in.
my first Warhammer purchase was the original 5e bretonnia vs lizardman from 1996 which was $100. my lizardman army was ended up being over 5000 points by the end. I never lost.
Interesting, but I'd say is waaay more important to spend your money in a good desk lamp rather than an airbrush. You can paint perfectly fine without airbrush, a good light is a game changer.
I got a bunch of sand from a local playground, used a fine sieve to get it nice and fine, then i put it in the oven for about half an hour to kill any grossness
I bought a box of coffee stirrers on Amazon for like 15 bucks, came with literally like a thousand at least. If i ever need to buy coffee stirrers again I'll be amazed
While sure, wet pallets, base materials and airbrushes are a personal preference, but from a beginner (started July 2023) for other beginners, one of them are needed. Basing isnt a requirement, so it's okay to postpone materials until you e had time to plan and practice. Wet pallets are nice, sure, but you can paint just fine without them... And airbrushes make some things easier, but what the video doesn't tell you is you need a large dedicated space for using them. If youre sitting at a kitchen table or other non-paint dedicated spots, an airbrush is useless
When I was a beginner I used whatever was lying around. I wish I would’ve just bought the better more expensive tools at the jump. It’s made me a faster, more precise, and better painter with them. It was spendy, but it cut my time in half, and I value my time more than anything.
I wouldn't start with Kolinsky brushes as a beginner. When you have painted for some time and have some knowledge about proper brush care, then sure. When you start miniature painting and haven't really painted anything else before you will pretty sure mess up some brushes. With cheap brushes no problem, with kolinsky and similar brands it hurts a lot more.
Genuinely, you don't even need a sponge for a homemade wet palette. I used a few layers of wet paper towel for a long while, and I still like it better than the sponges in some wet palettes I've tried in the years since.
Just as a fellow hobbyist fyi: I've been having mostly positive experiences with Greenstuffworld paints personally, and they also just had a rework of their formula, basically making the same improvements as Army Painter just without the publicity campaign. And at the same pricepoint as before, **cough cough** unlike Army Painter. Not fanboying for GSW, they definitely have their shortcomings, and i intend to try both ranges thoroughly, just felt it was a tad unfair to dismiss them wholecloth... kbai 👍
The best basing purchase I made was a literal sandbag from Lowe's. It came filled with different sized sand so I just sifted all the fine stuff out. So now I have a box full of small rocks and a bucket of sand.
If you live close to the sea, just take a bag and fill up from the beach.. take it home, sift to get rid of any garbage or undesirables.. if youa re lucky you will get shells and small rocks.. Sure Lowe's may be easier, but never overlook what you can get for free..
If you decide to go with contrasts or speedpaints, dont buy kolinsky brushes. I made that mistake and destroyed the brushes after 20 miniatures, and I was really careful not to overload them with paint :)
Step 1: 3D printer Step 2: Free STL files Step 3: Download PDFs of all the rules. You can now print whatever army you want for about 50 bucks each. Congratulations for winning Warhammer!
I sold on my mint condition Gorkamorka boxed game, with everything in it, unused, for £40 about three years ago. I knew it would be going to a person who would appreciate it, so I only asked what I paid for it. Pay it forward 🙂 I hope that lad enjoyed it
You are not entirely wrong, but i think you are not entirely right either. You can get paints + tools sets (both 40k and AoS) for roughly 30-40$ and while the selection of coulours isn't the greatest you get few decent paints, very usable wash and texture paste on the top. Add about 15$ for whatever set of three synthetic brushes. Make wet pallete from your home supplies (paper towels are fine if you don't have a sponge) and you are set. Buy any models you like and glue to put them together for rest of the money. That is how i started and it gives you very decent perspective if this hobby is for you or not. Sure, when you are building an actual army, you want that spray-can primer, basing tufts and maybe even the airbrush. But for first couple of models it is really not that important.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Lends a lot of authenticity to the advice in the video that they suggest cheaper brands than their own product. Respect.
Everybody already knows if you buy Squidmar's brushes and airbrush kit, you instantly get around 30% better at painting. It's in the fine print!
Of course. People need to know whether they enjoy the hobby or not before investing a lot of money into it, and such honesty will incline them to buying their product later if they do, so it's a win/win.
oh please so gullible, it's marketing. just not direct... like there was no need at all to bring up his specific product in this video. just a sneaky way to bring back those brushes in people consciousness. Not to mention he has a link to his brushes/stuff before any links to the other stuff he talked about lol.
@@MrSteelface96 Does that mean your freewill was over ridden and you were coerced into clicking the link and purchasing? If not then what is your point? Obviously anyone who produces something intends to sell it. If you created a product would you instead feel shame and conceal it from public knowledge? You say others are gullible but this is just stupid.
These guys are so humble. They know if they help a newbie take their first steps in the hobby they will remember it. And later on, once established, they may remember that by buying their products later on.
i think decent lighting is a must before some of these things. i bought an Led desk lamp for less than £20 and it has transformed my ability to get better results.
Do you have the link or the name to check ?
I second this, I use a desk lamp with a magnifier on it and I cannot live without it
I have also learned this lesson the hard way.
I was going to say the same thing. Good lighting is as much important as a good brush.
I love lamp!
A good alternative to a coffee mug is an old jam jar. Much easier to see when the water needs changing, and much less likely to accidentally drink.
Sounds like the drinking accident comes from experience 😂
@@britzolas if you haven't accidentally taken a sip of paint water are you really a miniature painter? The worst is once I accidentally "cleaned" my brush in my expensive whiskey instead of the paint cup...
Things I would consider for the final 10
- Makeup brush for drybrushing
- Milliput for any base modeling and gap fixing needs
- Gloss varnish for shiny details
- Matte varnish finish spray
A thin layer of gloss varnish can also help your washes flow very nicely right where you want it to, it also acts as a sort of "save button" incase you mess something up
@@tyjames3339had to "reload my save" doings some pauldrons just the other day.
I need more of Lukas heckling Emil from off-screen in my life
When you are starting dollar stores / supermarkets are your best bet. You can buy almost everything from the list there (except for paints). And the best tip of them all is: Buy less than you think you need, start the hobby and buy the things you need as you go - it will save you a ton of money.
if you dont have one of those sponge pads for the wet palette, you can just use a couple layers of paper towel as a substitute, you'll just have to replace it everytime you use it
Or a microfiber washcloth. Heck I used sponge bricks for years. And I met a dude who would lay his palette paper on a soaked piece of cardboard, definitely single use, but it worked for him.
Also, for pigments, literally go buy chalk pastels. Specifically chalk pastels, may say “oil free” but I just picked up a pack of 12 earth tones for
Can you explain this to a noob??
I've been into mini gaming for 15 years. And I still watched this whole video.
A good alternative idea is the "everyday carry" of painting for you/other painters in the hobby. We all have a massive range of paints, brushes and tools. But which are the defaults that we always reach for? Paints might change, but what are the things that you use on every project.
Just wanted to give you guys a shout out. Thank you. Just finished my first army for 40 K. And I have been terrified for the last three months to paint due to so many options. You guys really broke it down and simplified it enough for me to have a good start. I’ve now just ordered the majority of your recommendations. I greatly appreciate this. Specially, as you said this hobby is expensive, so you just save me a ton of money. Thank you big thumbs up and I subscribed after this video look forward to more. Also, I would like to see a finished video of all, the Giants that you were working on that I have taken you almost 18 months if you get around to it.
I spend Money on a Harder and Steenbeck Evolution Squidmar 2024 Black Edition and it just arrived in the Mail. I am so hyped. Also it is just stunning and so nice to handle. Am so happy :)))
Soooo excited
2:50 I could never get Rustoleum to dry properly and switched to the obscene $25 a can citadel primer. Maybe I need to try again...
I'm about to get started and this is what I just needed THANK YOU
Great video. I'd love to see a version of this for more intermediate level where you do want to invest in quality tools & materials but don't need every option or the absolute highest tier.
You forgot a Drybrush, Brush, because for like a Necron Army Drybrushing is literally demanding and i love it on biger modells for metall. For basing Buy freakin Bird sand! it has little Chalk in there and you get the 5kg package for 2 Dollars, then glue it on the base let it dry it gets hard like crazy than you paint it with cheap Acrilic Paint from a dollar shop and then drybrush it. I doo all my bases like this and then add kork, static gras tuffts and stuff( mostly is do kork before)
Just use a small make up brush for a drybrush. Dirt cheap and tough. Agree with you on the bird sand or if you want really fine texture, chinchilla dust.
Its baffling to me that this is a "do this when you start" video and they are already suggesting using Sable brushes, and buying citadel paints..
also they waste 20th of the budget on tools and primer..
I spent £8 on 30 size 00 brushes.. sure theya rent great.. but only 2 have lost the tip and i am using it until they break..
@@MarkOfTzeentch If the objective was purely to save cash, why the hell are we in this hobby?! I get your point but you have to admit that using a quality brush for detail work does make a difference. Same with decent primers. It saves so much heartache further down the process that it’s worth investing in a decent brand from the start.
Yes.. i agree it helps massively.. however, I wouldnt tell a beginner trying to get into the hobby "oh btw buy this £10 brush, make sure you treat it right, or else the only thing it'll be good for is drybrushing or terrain..
@@simonrobinson4761
Skip the super glue and get some extra thin cement for $5 usd and it will last you for a few hundred models. Also great for getting rid of seams
awesome idea and i loved that you actually did not recommend your own product, thats just unimaginable these days, actually getting advice instead of jsut getting advertisement. really appreciate it
Literally cut the bottom part of a coke bottle when I started. Made a notch on the rim and it worked wonders cause the ridges on the bottom were actually really nice to get the paint out of the brush lol
As someone who has been building injection mold plastic gunpla for years, I sincerely have no idea how GW gets away with asking such outrageous prices for their minis.
It's our fault, we keep paying the ridiculous prices. Hopefully the growing 3d printed market will force them to make some changes. Doubt it though. They'll go down with to the ship before they slash prices
Elitism. I know dudes who feel superior when they buy GW minis, compared to others who buy other brands or print their own stuff. And their painting skills also suck in comparison with the others.
They get away with it because in order to play the game in GW tournies or even warhammer shops etc, you HAVE to use their models.
GW has a captive market because you're paying for the game as well as the models.
@@thrrax never ever heard about this. Are you sure? For me it just seems like they like that universe instead of random models. Just like you are fan of a movie or video game eg Zelda, then why would you buy some random stuff. But Yeah painting skills on Warhammer is some of the worst Ive seen but thats because some people just want to play so they dip the minis in 3 different paints and they are done
@@VanDiemensLander good luck detecting 3D-printed models in a painted army :). From my experience it's not as much tournament factor as that non-original models can be more difficult to assemble and paint for a beginner. Resin sometimes behaves funny with regular glue for example and large models often come warped and require adjustment before assembly. Also newcomers mostly have no knowledge of the alternatives. That helps GW to keep their ridiculous prices.
I want to let you guys know, when I first started painting, I got a Redgrass wet palette, based on your recommendation, with a bag of like 100 extra sheets on Amazon for like $35 and it's been a dream. So, for anyone who is new balks at the price of the thing, it's worth it.
This was very helpful for me. Thank you for your effort!
10:25 I'd call that a "jetty".
Great Vid, as always. Thanks Guys. I thought it was funny that it's all about how to START in miniature painting, but the basing materials section is for more advanced modellers. I glued sand and painted in browns and greens for the first 10 years of the hobby :)
Not many brands would suggest potential customers buy a product different than what they sell. Respect and like!
Love my Rosemary and Co brushes, big recommend
I can add that very good advice if you are going to buy Citadel colors and live near a Warhammer store, then you can buy 10 colors and then you get the most expensive of them. But unfortunately this only applies to purchases in their physical stores. Another good tip is that you can very often find grass and the like at significantly better prices in stores for model railways and they also have other consumables, such as paint.
Ironically enough I just visited a modelling store for ww2 vehicles and trains. They have SO MUCH stuff and it's so cheap. Tools, static grass, bushes, paints, and let's not forget the washes. Aall at a reasonable price. A rust wash for £2.50 and the dude was kind enough to prepare samples lmao
As someone just getting back into minature painting after decades away, this was a great video!
another really nice thing for basing assuming you are just interesting in making a simple ground texture are vallejo texture pastes, they are WAYYYY cheaper than the citadel ones they come in huge amounts, and are great for dry brushing, adding pigments etc
i still use that same type of super after 20 years, works the best, and activator is super useful to have a round. I gave up on generic plastic glue a long time ago
thank you that was really helpful
My squidmar evolution airbrush is on its way, I'm real excited. Love your work.
Best video Squiddy has ever made. Chapeau, sir.
Emil needs a vacation... to a beach with a boardwalk... so he can restock on sand. Lukas might fit in the luggage.
A good desk lamp and stationary magnifying glass that I don't have to hold or support, really helped me out a ton. Magnifying glass was less than $15 at hobby lobby
Nice informative video. Was fun to watch!
You can even be cheaper with the pigments and buy square pastels sticks, scrape them with your hobby knife and tadaaa. Works like a charm and many colors available you can mix together
I’d like to recommend the “Two Thin Coats” paint line if they are available in your area/lgs. My lgs sells them cheaper that citadel paints and the quality is as good. Plus they have a very simple triad to follow.
This video is great even for an avid painter and modeler as it gives us alternatives to use if we go out to a store or a convention to not bring our more expensive equipment with us. And I can’t wait to get my squigmar evolution black that’s in transit now in the US.
I been playing since I was 16. I am 48. I can still walk into a wh store and play with a unit I painted 32 years ago and still play for free.
As a beginner myself, I'd say that you really don't need any fancy bases. If you're using superglue, it's easy enough to remove a mini from a base with a craft knife, so for now it's probably easier to focus on one side of the craft than working on the other. You can always replace that base later if you so choose. Also, depending on what mini you're using (such as Nolzur ones for D&D or a bust) then you probably don't need an elaborate base at all. It's probably better to spend the money on a decent light, or putting it towards that starter airbrush, or maybe one pot of gloss varnish and one pot of matt varnish.
Great tips! Hoping for some Old World content soon.
Very timely because I'm just getting into this.
for coffee stir sticks another option if your willing to fork over a whole dollar is dollar stores you can get packages of 100 or more for a dollar
i know this cause i am coming from a D&D background and alot of my terrain and doors and map pieces were made with these
Great video, thanks for all of the info! Just a heads up, that black matte rustoleum paint is not matte whatsoever. It’s at minimum, semi-gloss and will not take standard acrylic paint easily. Your paint will bead up and not go down in an even layer. Unfortunately I bought 4 cans off of Amazon and didn’t try them out until after the return window was already up, so after I prime my models I have to go back over the primer with a matte clear spray so that they’re usable.
I'd have started to worry about Emil's health if the video had lasted longer 😂
LOL THIS!
Products: $100. Brain damage: Free!
Considering primer, I've tried Rust-Oleum for a while but it gives some mixed results. Sometimes the coverage is uneven and paint layer is a bit on the thick side. Lately I switched to Kudo primers and they work almost as good as Citadel ones, much better than R-O.
I always toyed around with the idea of getting into painting minis but needing spray paints, compressors and air brushes were just big turn-offs for me. I don't really have a place where I can do a whole lot of spray-based painting.
You really don't need spray, there are different methods to painting, I've been painting minis for half a year and only last month did I buy a can of spray paint
@@ryancarthy1637 Every video I've ever seen has always said that the figures will just end up looking like crap without airbrushing or spraying.
You know how I got my water pot? Yogurt, the big one.
I do a ton of different arts and I can confidently say the citadel primer works way better than rustoleum for minis, as the rustoleum is noticeably thicker.
I use empty spice jars to use for rinsing water because they fit in those MDF painting stations and also make me less likely to just toss a brush in there
Hmm, maybe the biggest question, how important is it as a beginner to give ones Lukas a cookie?
Squidmar made both an ad about his brushes and say no to buy it for beginners, smart xD
A good substitute for pastel powder is a set of pastel chalks and use a piece of sandpaper to powder them
I will tell you you're going to have a hell of a time getting a hold of Vallejo paints if you are in the US. Their logistics chain is horrendous. The new army painter fanatic line is actually quite good for the money.
I always use the same old school stuff, I should investigate what's new that I can incorporate 😀
for basing id recommend geek gaming scenics base ready stuff most of it is so good its insane
The word you were looking for was jetty or dock. Fishermen can call it a peg, but that's because they call any specific space they fish at a peg, including just a plaque with a number next to a canal, lake or river.
I really like Duncan's 2 thin coats range of paints if they're available at you friendly local game store. Great coverage. GW contrast paint is also awesome as long as you prime whit or light grey.
Brygga = Jetty
Been living in Stockholm for 6yrs, so have had many friends do the, (surprised Pikachu face) then "fyfan, vad är ordet för (obscure item here)"
So got used to giving them the word after a lot of pointing. lol
This is PERFECT timing, as have finally started purchasing models again.. after a 23yr break from 40k. It finally dragged me back in.
You also have to figure in shipping for each and every item, or at least the stuff you can't buy at your local supermarket :)
A video with some sensible advice, but I have to say that I found myself laughing (a lot). Keep them coming guys.
my first Warhammer purchase was the original 5e bretonnia vs lizardman from 1996 which was $100. my lizardman army was ended up being over 5000 points by the end. I never lost.
Interesting, but I'd say is waaay more important to spend your money in a good desk lamp rather than an airbrush. You can paint perfectly fine without airbrush, a good light is a game changer.
Gsw also remade there opaqe acrylics range, now its actully realy nice. Says Maxx formula on the bottles on the new once
I would only add one thing, a cheap clear varnish for protection of your epic paint job!
"Oh my gawld" You really ARE funny!!
Why would you recommend superglue for plastic miniatures?
Nice. A video with solutions instead of just complaints about the costs.
Coffee grounds with a little paint and pva glue will make really good dirt or mud
Amazing video! I’m wondering what the safest way to cook(sterilize?) sand and branches outside?
I got a bunch of sand from a local playground, used a fine sieve to get it nice and fine, then i put it in the oven for about half an hour to kill any grossness
Just bought an Artis opus brush, and wow, after the synthetic brushes just hits different... 100 worth.
Do you guys have any videos for beginners on how to paint?
“Are you a Goddamn thief now Emil?” 😅😂
HOOOOOLD UP! IF we all start taking coffee stirers from the shop then there will be no more left for anybody.
Let them stir with their fingers.
Their beverages are temporary, our minis are eternal.
I bought a box of coffee stirrers on Amazon for like 15 bucks, came with literally like a thousand at least. If i ever need to buy coffee stirrers again I'll be amazed
@@ZachIzBeast thats too expensive... Emil is right just go steal them.
@armoredjoey4122 you know what if that's too much then fair enough, by all means
@@ZachIzBeast I mean nothing said by me was meant to be taken seriously. all for laughs. People are going to do whatever they feel like anyway.
Excellent advice👍, but, you should revisit your paint comparative as both Green Stuff world and Army painter have deeply changed their paints.
What else do you need with an airbrush? Some kind of mask, ventillation, etc?
My college’s book store had wet palettes on clearance for five dollars :)
Wow! Lighting Lukas’ entire paycheck on fire for this thumbnail/ video was a bold move. Sending thoughts and prayers.
It was his idea, first time he got to see money in real life
While sure, wet pallets, base materials and airbrushes are a personal preference, but from a beginner (started July 2023) for other beginners, one of them are needed. Basing isnt a requirement, so it's okay to postpone materials until you e had time to plan and practice. Wet pallets are nice, sure, but you can paint just fine without them... And airbrushes make some things easier, but what the video doesn't tell you is you need a large dedicated space for using them. If youre sitting at a kitchen table or other non-paint dedicated spots, an airbrush is useless
When I was a beginner I used whatever was lying around. I wish I would’ve just bought the better more expensive tools at the jump. It’s made me a faster, more precise, and better painter with them. It was spendy, but it cut my time in half, and I value my time more than anything.
Wish I knew these tips when I jumped in as 9th became 10th edition 😢 but very great to know just in case I was spending too much!
I wouldn't start with Kolinsky brushes as a beginner. When you have painted for some time and have some knowledge about proper brush care, then sure.
When you start miniature painting and haven't really painted anything else before you will pretty sure mess up some brushes. With cheap brushes no problem, with kolinsky and similar brands it hurts a lot more.
Genuinely, you don't even need a sponge for a homemade wet palette. I used a few layers of wet paper towel for a long while, and I still like it better than the sponges in some wet palettes I've tried in the years since.
Just as a fellow hobbyist fyi: I've been having mostly positive experiences with Greenstuffworld paints personally, and they also just had a rework of their formula, basically making the same improvements as Army Painter just without the publicity campaign. And at the same pricepoint as before, **cough cough** unlike Army Painter. Not fanboying for GSW, they definitely have their shortcomings, and i intend to try both ranges thoroughly, just felt it was a tad unfair to dismiss them wholecloth... kbai 👍
The best basing purchase I made was a literal sandbag from Lowe's. It came filled with different sized sand so I just sifted all the fine stuff out. So now I have a box full of small rocks and a bucket of sand.
If you live close to the sea, just take a bag and fill up from the beach.. take it home, sift to get rid of any garbage or undesirables.. if youa re lucky you will get shells and small rocks..
Sure Lowe's may be easier, but never overlook what you can get for free..
As a really cheap alternative to pigments you can buy some chalk pastels.
thanks for the perfect timing !
If you decide to go with contrasts or speedpaints, dont buy kolinsky brushes. I made that mistake and destroyed the brushes after 20 miniatures, and I was really careful not to overload them with paint :)
Step 1: 3D printer
Step 2: Free STL files
Step 3: Download PDFs of all the rules.
You can now print whatever army you want for about 50 bucks each. Congratulations for winning Warhammer!
I sold on my mint condition Gorkamorka boxed game, with everything in it, unused, for £40 about three years ago. I knew it would be going to a person who would appreciate it, so I only asked what I paid for it. Pay it forward 🙂 I hope that lad enjoyed it
Great Job! Way to Stuart the hobby.
What do you think of the Slap Job method of painting ?
Are we using superglue because its just cheaper than plastic glue?
It works with all type models no matter material :)
Was that Lukas getting revenge for no cookies in the wet palette section 🤣🤣🤣
Any news on the infinity airbrush? I’m super excited and saving my $$.
Yes, hopefully it's done in 2 mo
The only thing I would change is the glue. I much prefer the Tamiya cement with the brush in the jar.
“Are you a goddamn thief..?” 😂😂😂
You are not entirely wrong, but i think you are not entirely right either. You can get paints + tools sets (both 40k and AoS) for roughly 30-40$ and while the selection of coulours isn't the greatest you get few decent paints, very usable wash and texture paste on the top. Add about 15$ for whatever set of three synthetic brushes. Make wet pallete from your home supplies (paper towels are fine if you don't have a sponge) and you are set. Buy any models you like and glue to put them together for rest of the money. That is how i started and it gives you very decent perspective if this hobby is for you or not.
Sure, when you are building an actual army, you want that spray-can primer, basing tufts and maybe even the airbrush. But for first couple of models it is really not that important.
Another great video!