Great tip. If you thread a second hole in between the original hole and the hole you just did, you could put another wing nut in there and the crown stop would slide along both which hold itself up when you need to set up for the larger crown.
Thats the first thingI thought! Also I bet if you contact Dewalt and tell them what you did, they would consider just having the gide run in a track pre moulded into base ;)
i would recommend using a nut-sert. being that the aluminium wall thickness is so thin over time those threads will strip. a nut-sert works like a rivet with plenty of threads inside. and if the nut-sert ever strips it's easy to remove and replace with a new one. but honestly by that time you'll probably want a new saw. good luck😁 by the way great idea!
joedmac78 that’s very good advice ,but believe it or not I’ve had this done to my miter saw’s for years it doesn’t take a whole lot of torque to hold that crown stop in place, but yes the wall should be thicker and thickened if possible
I just modified my milwaukee 7 1/4" with the dewalt crown stops😁 Same deal had to tap , but first had to add a strip of aluminum on side because there isnt enough on side of base. I just tapped some screws in the aluminum for now , but will tig weld it when I have time. Perfect for small crown
Download the crown calculator app, put in the corner angle then the spring angle and cut it flat all day. Makes the beginner look like a pro. Super easy if you have a sliding double bevel miter saw. App comes in handy with base as well when the walls are out of square just put in a 0 sling angle. I don't do crown that often so I hate always having to re teach myself to think upside down and backwards. Love your videos. You do awesome work.
This was the first video of yours that I saw and even though you're way better at explaining things now, you were still doing good enough to teach back then. 👍
I did the exact same thing about a year ago to mine and it works great. wish there would have been a way I could have told you to help you out but it's still holding up great one of the best things I've done
Great job, it’s fun to modify tools to do what you want them to do. Although I’ve never cut my crown on the angle. I’ve always laid them flat. I have a double compound sliding miter saw from Makita. It’s old, but fantastic!
i recommend using the original hole for all crown that is small enough to use it.. there are a lot more threads in the original hole. over time you will eat the threads out of your new hole.. use it as little as possible. or you may be able to super glue or epoxy a nut on the back side of that new hole... that would last a long time.. your knowledge is teaching me a lot so i figured i would pass on some of mine..
Pause the video @ 12:21. Right in front of where your index finger is pointing. If you drill and tap another hole there, under the crown stop then screw a shoulder bolt in until it stops, that will hold up your crown stop. This way you don't loose half the travel you just added.
Y’all this man loves trim ! You hear how happy he sounded for real wen he said today’s a good day cuz he figured out how he can cut bigger trim easier in his dewalt ahahahaha
Great tip. The metal where you made the new hole is pretty thin. The 2 threads you make with the tap will not last long under constant tightening. You may want to put a small aluminum block behind the new hole that you drilled and tapped with the same kit. Will make the whole thing 10 times stronger.
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I would do 2 screw stop, that support just a little better.great work you do .glad to see some body care about there work.in my home town. Glad to see your into your work.i fill the same about what I do.
I've been cutting crown molding for years and years and I never used any stops I just set the bevel and the angel and lay the crown flat , You just have to cut some pieces upside down and backwards... I keep a set of samples so I don't have to keep adjustments all the time.
It is just easier/faster to lay it as it sits on the wall. Yes, we can argue that once you figure the spring angle it is just as fast. Just another step to figure out. Just a personal preference thing that could be discussed time and time again.
Christopher Dunton yes I am with you. I believe it's much more efficient to cut it in position. especially when it's so easy. yes, for bigger crowns you will need to lay it flat, but most crowns for the average home owner are not that big.
that works great but only with a double bevel miter saw. With a single bevel saw you have to put the crown on it's face to cut reverse angles and alot of crown are wide in the center so it won't lay flat on the face side and it teeters.
Well...awesome idea - just not quit as done. All you drilled and tapped was the thin metal of the base - DANGEROUS! You HAVE the right idea - just lay the saw over to clean it - use "brake cleaner" with NO sparks open flames etc to CLEAN that same area you drilled - and use a dab of JB Weld to ADD a stainless nut to the inside of the base. Screw the nut into position onto the support bolt BEFORE adding the epoxy and be sure none gets on the threaded area. By adding the nut you will gain all the strength needed to hold the fence in place and it not wear/fail as it likely with just the base supporting it. As to the front of the base which should be supporting the fence anchor - have someone make up a short aluminum extension for it by taking some 1/8" X 1" X 1" stock (>>or as large as room allows
Damn I wish I had the XP to accomplish that! I always thought why would they only make crown stop for medium crown? If I only had an old saw to "experiment" on. Not my new flexvolt lol maybe ill talk to El jefe see if I can do it on the widow maker?!
very goog tips. I do have a question: What kind router bit I can use to make joints: stair oak tread with poplar stair riser. its ok i use a 1/4" rabbet bit to the oak tread and 1/4" dados bit to the poplar riser and make the joint together?thanks for all video.
Nicely done! Any chance we can get a video on how you finish your crown? How you caulk out corners and fill holes. I put caulk on the ceiling side of the crown during install... was curious how you do it.
Love your videos. As others have said, the metal is too thin and has just a few threads. No problem. Epoxy a nut on the inside of the saw or use the thick ca glue. one wrap of teflon tape on the bolt threads will stop the glue from bonding to your bolt. After applying epoxy or if using ca, before you spray activator, tighten bolt securely. I'd be amazed if the nut ever came loose. I watch all of your videos. I have built many homes. You are good and your work is excellent. Good luck, my brother.
Great Idea! I am a little concerned that you are threading aluminum whereas the other hole has a steel threaded insert. I maybe would have considered fastening a steel nut on the underside just to prevent tearout. How do you attach that? I don't know..I'm just an idea man. Suggestion, put a washer under that knob to prevent walking. Also, since you have that other hole there put another knob in to maintain alignment at extreme extension. That will keep it square.
At some point, for a larger crown molding, you will not be able to use this method, because the fence will not be tall enough. Extending the fence will not be possible because it will interfere with the motor or the blade will not be large enough to cut the depth that you need. Cutting crown on the flat is the only way to cut very large crown. Most good miter saws, including the DeWalt have bevel stops included for cutting crown on the flat.
When tapping a hole always use a countersink first to chamfer the opening after drilling the proper sized hole. Always use tapping fluid when cutting threads. Using a center punch to create a dimple will keep the drill from wandering.
jdclark0485 I agree... only a couple of threads that will wear down over time. JD is right... get a piece of 1/8" flat stock about 3" long and tap it the same... then JB weld that to the back, using your bolt to hold it in place over night and that will NEVER fail. Great idea that I'm sure Dewalt will incorporate after seeing your concept. Keep it up bud... I'm using your ideas on my own place!
Matthew Wheaton Matt is right, just flip the Mitre Saw upside down, and epoxy a bolt or weld a bolt on the inside problem solved, if you don't want to thread the hole you can just do that to start with.
Agreed, if you look at the original hole, there is a steel nutsert/rivnut embedded in the cast alloy base. DeWalt put that there because the material is so soft and thin that the threads would strip in no time. I recommend modifying this to add a nut or tapped steel insert behind the base so you're not relying on the 4-5 threads in the soft aluminium.
I'm sure this will get around to Dewalt and other manufacturers. You should hire a patent attorney to see if you have any recourse. I would also suspect that they will now widen the base of the saw to accommodate the new design. Trust me, it's men like you who influence design. You need to be in touch with dewalt, they will pay you to keep innovating for them. If you haven't already, subscribe to Rob Cosman, he is the man, and tool company's consult with him on tool design all the time. He's a true innovator like yourself and the guy makes his own tools, and has his own product line. You could be the next Rob Cosman.
He can use the screw and washer in new third hole and keep that snug then use the dewalt festener as quick adjustment and the screw and washer are more of a support
Me too. Flat will always be consistent. All the new miter boxes have the settings for crown already. Just remember, it is only for perfect corners. You'll need to adjust accordingly, and cut from both pieces, not just one.
Look into a Rivnut for a good reinforcement instead of just tapping into the thin wall. The outermost part will stick out a bit, but it should slide like a guide without interference .
Good idea modifying your crown stop. Be careful tightening your nut down too tight though. That’s aluminum and it’s pretty thin, so you’ll easily strip it out pretty soon. (BTW, that’s called drilling and tapping. And it’s very easy to just chuck that tap into your drill, especially with aluminum.)
I'd put a decent sized spring pin between the two holes, that way the crown stop can't fall downward. The pin would just hold the crown stop in plane with each threaded hole
One thing you can do to speed up taking out the Dewalt crown stops......cut the channel completely through the back end...then all you do is loosen the pinch nut 1 turn, and the crown stop will simply slide out to the front.
What about small pieces for bull noses and corners, pieces that are only one inch wide or so? Your crown stops seam to far away from the cut line to aide in cutting such a piece.
Did you have to do anything to the fence to make it taller as well? I have a 12 inch Skilsaw Miter Saw, and I had the same problem you did only my crown stops mount on the front of the saw and not on the side. I had to take L brackets and bolt them into the front of the saw and flip them up so they were even with the base (were the piece of molding sets) then I can take my Crown stops and bolt them to the L brackets which make for a bigger area for larger crown. However last week I did a two-piece crown and discovered that anything bigger than 4 1/4 crown probably would end up over topping the fence so if I had to ever do anything larger than that I need to figure out a way to make my fence taller.
whoops the black dot is on high side of the slide, works though. This thread might strip and if it does you can insert a stainless steel piece like the original or install another and make the stripped out one a stud to keep it straight
anyway, good job on your Channel, you do great work and have many good tips 4 a lot of people out there. the glue you posted in a video you picked up from HobbyTown is awesome stuff, I picked up that boss laser tape you posted and it's quite the handy tool. Saves a lot of running around for certain measurements. quite the Time Saver.
On a relatively thin piece like this, being perfectly square probably isn't that important as long as you're close enough, but if you want it to be nice and square but can't get it on the drill press, you can just cut a couple of square pieces of wood and screw them so they've got a right angle between them, and you can just use that to line your drill bit up against it. Again, not super necessary here, but if someone else's has a bit deeper to drill through and they want it to be just perfect, that can help a ton.
Great modification that will really be helpful. If I could make a suggestion though, because I'd hate to see it strip out. The threads won't likely last very long because the aluminum is so thin there. (you can see how deep the threads are in the original hole) What I would do is get an 8mm bolt and thread that in from the back side so that it sticks out an inch or so. Then put the bracket over the now stud and get an 8mm knob with a nut instead of a bolt like the one you have now. That way when you tighten and loosen you are turning against the threads in the knob instead of the shallow threads in the aluminum. Both the bolt and knob should be available at any hardware store and will make the modification that much stronger and last that much longer.
nice trick. i am going to duplicate that on my saw. i have ran into the same problem before also. I also like TheOregonOutlaw idea to back it up and make it solid. Thank you Finish Bro's
drill another hole just like you did closer to the edge and get a second knob so when you do the bigger crowns use 2 knobs on each side and that way the stop won't fall off the edge.
Wow! What an ingenious idea! Does having the metal bracket stick out so far (i.e. when you're cutting the 7-1/4" crown) limit the angle you can cut the piece at? There's one shot in the video where it looks like the tip of the bracket falls in line with where the blade would land on a 45 degree cut. Probably not the case, but that was just the first thing to pop in my head, lol. Love your videos! Thanks for finding time to show us what the life of a professional trim carpenter looks like day to day!
Yeah you can cut at 90 - but have you tried turning the 45s in both directions? It looks like your crown stop will be in the way of the saw carriage when turned. I hope I'm wrong.
thin substrate with too few threads - will strip too easily. the original hole looks like it is actually a threaded rivet aka riv-nut. I advise u use rivnuts - u'll need to drill/ream out the new hole a little. great channel, my bro, love your work, the standards of quality, your freedom with sharing knowledge and experience.... big love and respect :)
I've nvr seen a 7-1/4" crown. I think 6" is the biggest. I thought anything over that you had to build out with base and crown. To get those big 9-1/2" types. Whoa!! I guess I've been working on down the line.
I always find it hard to determine what is the base of the crown (part that goes adjoins the wall) and what is the top of the crown (part that goes on the ceiling). Is it a personal choice or is there a "rule" that should be followed to determine orientation?
Make a few holes as far back as you can go ,or even a slit from one end to the other and use 3 or more bolts with wing nuts for variable adjs ,the holes really don't need to be threaded ,because with the added bolts it will still be stable as long as it's kept parallel with the work piece .
You might want to braze a nut on the back side of your new hole to give yourself more thread surface. Just make sure your threads are in line with the threads that you made. If not a second guide/ support pin may be needed. I’m glad it’s working for you, good head on that boys shoulders lol
@finish carpentry tv. It would be very helpful it you would drill two holes on each side of the stops tug o keep it from falling. Also are you selling your retired miter saw, if so let' make a deal.
I think you should have marked for the hole from top to bottom (in the slot) with the Sharpie. the dot you made is on the "top" of the slot, which will make the hole "high" compared to the original hole. or you could have measured down on the first hole to see how far the center is from the top of the saw "table", then used your mark to determine the "left to right".
Two things, First did you slide the miter base all the way over to the right to at least 45° to see if it hits the bracket for the crown stop. Secondly If you use that thumbscrew enough, that side wall looks thinner on the base, you could strip the threads... You might have to add a nut on the backside or put in some form of a “Thread-cert” to eliminate strip out of the threads... I have been following you for a while now good video Otherwise... Greg
How come you don't make yourself a zero clearance insert while you were in modify mode? Not like it seems to slow you down! Love your channel and your work. Super slick stuff dude!
I have asked this question several times, on several different you tube vids, and never a response. Why, when the saw has the ability to cut many angles, do we cut crown in the upside down position. It is extremely confusing and does not make sense. Can someone please explain.
Your badass at your craft and I've learned alot watching you. That being said, why not just cut it flat using a double miter cut if it's too big for your crown stops?
I'd be very wary of using that new hole, very thin wall and very little material to support the threads. I'd look into a threaded insert to reinforce that. Never used those crown stops and I've cut the same cove mold without issue, sometimes the crown needs to be rocked a little in the saw to make a clean splice.
Great tip. If you thread a second hole in between the original hole and the hole you just did, you could put another wing nut in there and the crown stop would slide along both which hold itself up when you need to set up for the larger crown.
Ned Casey you beat me to it but that's exactly what I was going to suggest as well... Great minds think alike! lol
That's a great idea! Gotta do it soon.
Great Tip Ned!
Thats the first thingI thought! Also I bet if you contact Dewalt and tell them what you did, they would consider just having the gide run in a track pre moulded into base ;)
Ned Casey
i would recommend using a nut-sert. being that the aluminium wall thickness is so thin over time those threads will strip. a nut-sert works like a rivet with plenty of threads inside. and if the nut-sert ever strips it's easy to remove and replace with a new one. but honestly by that time you'll probably want a new saw. good luck😁 by the way great idea!
joedmac78 that’s very good advice ,but believe it or not I’ve had this done to my miter saw’s for years it doesn’t take a whole lot of torque to hold that crown stop in place, but yes the wall should be thicker and thickened if possible
joedmac78 great advice.
Can’t tell you how often I’ve thought of that. Even thought of extending the little slot in the bracket! Your way is much easier! Great video.
I just modified my milwaukee 7 1/4" with the dewalt crown stops😁 Same deal had to tap , but first had to add a strip of aluminum on side because there isnt enough on side of base. I just tapped some screws in the aluminum for now , but will tig weld it when I have time. Perfect for small crown
Download the crown calculator app, put in the corner angle then the spring angle and cut it flat all day. Makes the beginner look like a pro. Super easy if you have a sliding double bevel miter saw. App comes in handy with base as well when the walls are out of square just put in a 0 sling angle. I don't do crown that often so I hate always having to re teach myself to think upside down and backwards. Love your videos. You do awesome work.
This was the first video of yours that I saw and even though you're way better at explaining things now, you were still doing good enough to teach back then. 👍
I did the exact same thing about a year ago to mine and it works great. wish there would have been a way I could have told you to help you out but it's still holding up great one of the best things I've done
Great job, it’s fun to modify tools to do what you want them to do. Although I’ve never cut my crown on the angle. I’ve always laid them flat. I have a double compound sliding miter saw from Makita. It’s old, but fantastic!
i recommend using the original hole for all crown that is small enough to use it.. there are a lot more threads in the original hole. over time you will eat the threads out of your new hole.. use it as little as possible. or you may be able to super glue or epoxy a nut on the back side of that new hole... that would last a long time.. your knowledge is teaching me a lot so i figured i would pass on some of mine..
I'd use the metal welding stuff out of a tube to glue a nut. JB weld, or whatever its called.
Pause the video @ 12:21. Right in front of where your index finger is pointing. If you drill and tap another hole there, under the crown stop then screw a shoulder bolt in until it stops, that will hold up your crown stop.
This way you don't loose half the travel you just added.
Thank you for the tip. I have been wanting to do this for some time versus just a sacrificial board that crosses from both sides.
Thanks for the idea, I have the same crown stop with a Dewalt Mitre, keep the videos coming!!!
Y’all this man loves trim ! You hear how happy he sounded for real wen he said today’s a good day cuz he figured out how he can cut bigger trim easier in his dewalt ahahahaha
Great tip. The metal where you made the new hole is pretty thin. The 2 threads you make with the tap will not last long under constant tightening. You may want to put a small aluminum block behind the new hole that you drilled and tapped with the same kit. Will make the whole thing 10 times stronger.
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I would do 2 screw stop, that support just a little better.great work you do .glad to see some body care about there work.in my home town. Glad to see your into your work.i fill the same about what I do.
He thought us how to lube the hole in today’s video ! Great advise brother ! Thanks
Using a lock washer will aid in tightening and not so much force on the threads.
I've been cutting crown molding for years and years and I never used any stops I just set the bevel and the angel and lay the crown flat , You just have to cut some pieces upside down and backwards... I keep a set of samples so I don't have to keep adjustments all the time.
John L good idea for the samples. I'll have to try that
It is just easier/faster to lay it as it sits on the wall. Yes, we can argue that once you figure the spring angle it is just as fast. Just another step to figure out. Just a personal preference thing that could be discussed time and time again.
Christopher Dunton yes I am with you. I believe it's much more efficient to cut it in position. especially when it's so easy. yes, for bigger crowns you will need to lay it flat, but most crowns for the average home owner are not that big.
I have the DW708. I lay all my crown flat, never upside down or backwards. I printed out DW's table of miter settings for cutting crown.
that works great but only with a double bevel miter saw. With a single bevel saw you have to put the crown on it's face to cut reverse angles and alot of crown are wide in the center so it won't lay flat on the face side and it teeters.
Well done! Very smart trick...
Well...awesome idea - just not quit as done.
All you drilled and tapped was the thin metal of the base - DANGEROUS!
You HAVE the right idea - just lay the saw over to clean it - use "brake cleaner" with NO sparks open flames etc to CLEAN that same area you drilled - and use a dab of JB Weld to ADD a stainless nut to the inside of the base. Screw the nut into position onto the support bolt BEFORE adding the epoxy and be sure none gets on the threaded area. By adding the nut you will gain all the strength needed to hold the fence in place and it not wear/fail as it likely with just the base supporting it. As to the front of the base which should be supporting the fence anchor - have someone make up a short aluminum extension for it by taking some 1/8" X 1" X 1" stock (>>or as large as room allows
TheOregonOutlaw This is very good advice
Damn I wish I had the XP to accomplish that! I always thought why would they only make crown stop for medium crown? If I only had an old saw to "experiment" on. Not my new flexvolt lol maybe ill talk to El jefe see if I can do it on the widow maker?!
Good tip!!! I would go one step further by welding a nut to the backside so not to blowout the thin wall aluminum threads! Keep the videos coming!
Thanks for sharing! I ran into the same problem today with these short stops. Was gonna return them tomorrow. Instead I’m gonna try this mod. Thanks!
very goog tips. I do have a question: What kind router bit I can use to make joints: stair oak tread with poplar stair riser. its ok i use a 1/4" rabbet bit to the oak tread and 1/4" dados bit to the poplar riser and make the joint together?thanks for all video.
Good job, Richard. I always end up modifying my tools also. Excellent video too.
alex tworkowski thanks alex
Nicely done! Any chance we can get a video on how you finish your crown? How you caulk out corners and fill holes. I put caulk on the ceiling side of the crown during install... was curious how you do it.
Love your videos. As others have said, the metal is too thin and has just a few threads. No problem. Epoxy a nut on the inside of the saw or use the thick ca glue. one wrap of teflon tape on the bolt threads will stop the glue from bonding to your bolt. After applying epoxy or if using ca, before you spray activator, tighten bolt securely. I'd be amazed if the nut ever came loose. I watch all of your videos. I have built many homes. You are good and your work is excellent. Good luck, my brother.
Great Idea! I am a little concerned that you are threading aluminum whereas the other hole has a steel threaded insert. I maybe would have considered fastening a steel nut on the underside just to prevent tearout. How do you attach that? I don't know..I'm just an idea man. Suggestion, put a washer under that knob to prevent walking. Also, since you have that other hole there put another knob in to maintain alignment at extreme extension. That will keep it square.
At some point, for a larger crown molding, you will not be able to use this method, because the fence will not be tall enough. Extending the fence will not be possible because it will interfere with the motor or the blade will not be large enough to cut the depth that you need. Cutting crown on the flat is the only way to cut very large crown. Most good miter saws, including the DeWalt have bevel stops included for cutting crown on the flat.
Only way to cut any crown molding is on the flat.
Thats right and that how you do it
@@gilbertartiaga7657 it results in the same cut it doesn't mater which way you cut it, its the same end result.
Thank you for all of the awesome videos, I really appreciate your effort. keep up the good work!!
When tapping a hole always use a countersink first to chamfer the opening after drilling the proper sized hole. Always use tapping fluid when cutting threads. Using a center punch to create a dimple will keep the drill from wandering.
Frank Grammatico thanks for the tips. center punch is a great idea
Frank Grammatico awesome
I did this today and it worked like a champ. 6 1/2 half crown
Are the holes already there for the wing nut?
Another nice feature is to use the saw for other cuts the crown stop can swivel down 90 degrees instead of completely removing it.
Great idea, you may consider a nutsert as that will add threads similar to the factory or if it ever strips out.
Don't go too crazy on tightening that nut. Looks like you only have 4-5 threads to work with, and that aluminum will strip very quickly.
Matthew Wheaton I was actually wondering why it didnt strip upon first use. Id bondo/epoxy a nut or piece of tapped steel on the other side.
jdclark0485 I agree... only a couple of threads that will wear down over time. JD is right... get a piece of 1/8" flat stock about 3" long and tap it the same... then JB weld that to the back, using your bolt to hold it in place over night and that will NEVER fail. Great idea that I'm sure Dewalt will incorporate after seeing your concept. Keep it up bud... I'm using your ideas on my own place!
Matthew Wheaton Matt is right, just flip the Mitre Saw upside down, and epoxy a bolt or weld a bolt on the inside problem solved, if you don't want to thread the hole you can just do that to start with.
Agreed, if you look at the original hole, there is a steel nutsert/rivnut embedded in the cast alloy base. DeWalt put that there because the material is so soft and thin that the threads would strip in no time. I recommend modifying this to add a nut or tapped steel insert behind the base so you're not relying on the 4-5 threads in the soft aluminium.
There is another way to do with 10" slide dewalt, If some body interested can send a pictures how guys from our company modify saws and stands
I'm sure this will get around to Dewalt and other manufacturers. You should hire a patent attorney to see if you have any recourse. I would also suspect that they will now widen the base of the saw to accommodate the new design.
Trust me, it's men like you who influence design. You need to be in touch with dewalt, they will pay you to keep innovating for them. If you haven't already, subscribe to Rob Cosman, he is the man, and tool company's consult with him on tool design all the time. He's a true innovator like yourself and the guy makes his own tools, and has his own product line. You could be the next Rob Cosman.
put a 3rd hole to support the stop from falling
He can use the screw and washer in new third hole and keep that snug then use the dewalt festener as quick adjustment and the screw and washer are more of a support
That's exactly what I was thinking.
Came here to say the same, even just a post ? Why we only go half the way there?
I cut all my crown flat no mods needed you can get a chart for all angles works well
Me too. Flat will always be consistent. All the new miter boxes have the settings for crown already. Just remember, it is only for perfect corners. You'll need to adjust accordingly, and cut from both pieces, not just one.
Look into a Rivnut for a good reinforcement instead of just tapping into the thin wall. The outermost part will stick out a bit, but it should slide like a guide without interference .
Good idea modifying your crown stop. Be careful tightening your nut down too tight though. That’s aluminum and it’s pretty thin, so you’ll easily
strip it out pretty soon. (BTW, that’s called drilling and tapping. And it’s very easy to just chuck that tap into your drill, especially with aluminum.)
If you strip out the threads you just made you can put a nut on the inside and epoxy it to the case and continue on.
I'd put a decent sized spring pin between the two holes, that way the crown stop can't fall downward. The pin would just hold the crown stop in plane with each threaded hole
One thing you can do to speed up taking out the Dewalt crown stops......cut the channel completely through the back end...then all you do is loosen the pinch nut 1 turn, and the crown stop will simply slide out to the front.
I might make this modification instead of building a jig. Thanks for sharing 👍
I always cut the crown on the flat. That way you can cut up to 10 “-12” wide moulding no problem.
2 - drilled & tapped holes may help keep the stop from flopping off the deck of the saw..
Great idea🖒
What about small pieces for bull noses and corners, pieces that are only one inch wide or so? Your crown stops seam to far away from the cut line to aide in cutting such a piece.
Did you tap the original hole im wondering because my dewalt 779 has the hole but it is not threaded.
If you pop a second screw in to act as a guide it still stay up when its off the base so you won't need to worry about bumping it
Did you have to do anything to the fence to make it taller as well? I have a 12 inch Skilsaw Miter Saw, and I had the same problem you did only my crown stops mount on the front of the saw and not on the side. I had to take L brackets and bolt them into the front of the saw and flip them up so they were even with the base (were the piece of molding sets) then I can take my Crown stops and bolt them to the L brackets which make for a bigger area for larger crown. However last week I did a two-piece crown and discovered that anything bigger than 4 1/4 crown probably would end up over topping the fence so if I had to ever do anything larger than that I need to figure out a way to make my fence taller.
I just use the flat settings for larger crown molding. The flat settings are on your saw. Cool modification though.
whoops the black dot is on high side of the slide, works though. This thread might strip and if it does you can insert a stainless steel piece like the original or install another and make the stripped out one a stud to keep it straight
anyway, good job on your Channel, you do great work and have many good tips 4 a lot of people out there. the glue you posted in a video you picked up from HobbyTown is awesome stuff, I picked up that boss laser tape you posted and it's quite the handy tool. Saves a lot of running around for certain measurements. quite the Time Saver.
Wade Verweire thanks for the support and tips. yeah I'm always looking to make life easier. and having the right tools helps a lot. thanks again
What size drill bit and thread did you use?
3 yr old video. How have the holes held up to use? Has the thin metal stripped due to repeated tightening?
On a relatively thin piece like this, being perfectly square probably isn't that important as long as you're close enough, but if you want it to be nice and square but can't get it on the drill press, you can just cut a couple of square pieces of wood and screw them so they've got a right angle between them, and you can just use that to line your drill bit up against it.
Again, not super necessary here, but if someone else's has a bit deeper to drill through and they want it to be just perfect, that can help a ton.
Thanks man! I always appreciate your video's!!
Ps use a captive nut, saves ripping the thread out of the casting over time as It's too thin.
pretty cool. what model is your miter?
Great modification that will really be helpful. If I could make a suggestion though, because I'd hate to see it strip out. The threads won't likely last very long because the aluminum is so thin there. (you can see how deep the threads are in the original hole) What I would do is get an 8mm bolt and thread that in from the back side so that it sticks out an inch or so. Then put the bracket over the now stud and get an 8mm knob with a nut instead of a bolt like the one you have now. That way when you tighten and loosen you are turning against the threads in the knob instead of the shallow threads in the aluminum. Both the bolt and knob should be available at any hardware store and will make the modification that much stronger and last that much longer.
Great idea. Just consider using a grip sert for more threads any less likely to strip the threads.
nice trick. i am going to duplicate that on my saw. i have ran into the same problem before also. I also like TheOregonOutlaw idea to back it up and make it solid. Thank you Finish Bro's
drill another hole just like you did closer to the edge and get a second knob so when you do the bigger crowns use 2 knobs on each side and that way the stop won't fall off the edge.
Wow! What an ingenious idea!
Does having the metal bracket stick out so far (i.e. when you're cutting the 7-1/4" crown) limit the angle you can cut the piece at? There's one shot in the video where it looks like the tip of the bracket falls in line with where the blade would land on a 45 degree cut. Probably not the case, but that was just the first thing to pop in my head, lol.
Love your videos! Thanks for finding time to show us what the life of a professional trim carpenter looks like day to day!
For the 7&1/4 crown how far out from the saw fence base does the bracket have to be to allow the crown to sit properly?
P Foster233 looks like about half an inch to me.
Yeah you can cut at 90 - but have you tried turning the 45s in both directions? It looks like your crown stop will be in the way of the saw carriage when turned. I hope I'm wrong.
screw an small angle brace to the front of the base flush with the bottom of the crown guide and bend it to support it .
where do you buy your offset panel molding - I'm in the northeast and can't find it anyplace
search "millwork" in your local google map. You should be able to find someone who carries it.
Just a little late, but you could crazy glue a nut inside, that way you gain more threads, good video!
thin substrate with too few threads - will strip too easily.
the original hole looks like it is actually a threaded rivet aka riv-nut. I advise u use rivnuts - u'll need to drill/ream out the new hole a little.
great channel, my bro, love your work, the standards of quality, your freedom with sharing knowledge and experience.... big love and respect :)
Put another hole in there to keep it from dropping with a basic bolt. That will act like an extended base.
Love it Bro! Its the little things in life!
Richard. Great work but I just cut my crown flat. No need for a cradle
I've nvr seen a 7-1/4" crown. I think 6" is the biggest. I thought anything over that you had to build out with base and crown. To get those big 9-1/2" types. Whoa!! I guess I've been working on down the line.
What’s the distance from the fence to the stop for 4.25” crown?
You could always put a second bolt in ( you would have to drill and tap) and that would prevent it from falling
I always find it hard to determine what is the base of the crown (part that goes adjoins the wall) and what is the top of the crown (part that goes on the ceiling). Is it a personal choice or is there a "rule" that should be followed to determine orientation?
P Foster233 The edge with the most relief goes towards the floor (on the wall). Some types of crown have a thicker edge that goes to the wall too.
Make a few holes as far back as you can go ,or even a slit from one end to the other and use 3 or more bolts with wing nuts for variable adjs ,the holes really don't need to be threaded ,because with the added bolts it will still be stable as long as it's kept parallel with the work piece .
Have you tried this on 8in crown?
haha the comments. Everyone is a genius appearently
lickitysplit roberts
Sometimes you get other clever ideas and suggestions from people. Some won’t work some will
Just a quick one put a washer on the bolt it will stop the movement when tightening you may need a nut for the back
use a compound mitre saw and there is no need for that but for those who can't cut on a compound I guess it's a good idea.
You might want to braze a nut on the back side of your new hole to give yourself more thread surface. Just make sure your threads are in line with the threads that you made. If not a second guide/ support pin may be needed. I’m glad it’s working for you, good head on that boys shoulders lol
Sweet!!! I have the same dewalt saw that I'm going to do this to.
On tightning, the slide moves. Use a washer and it will stay out 👍
Great idea!! Thanks for posting!
@finish carpentry tv. It would be very helpful it you would drill two holes on each side of the stops tug o keep it from falling. Also are you selling your retired miter saw, if so let' make a deal.
I don't see the link to your jig in the description like you said. Can't find it in your videos section either. :/
I think you should have marked for the hole from top to bottom (in the slot) with the Sharpie.
the dot you made is on the "top" of the slot, which will make the hole "high" compared to the original hole.
or you could have measured down on the first hole to see how far the center is from the top of the saw "table", then used your mark to determine the "left to right".
Great idea..well done
thanks!! another great tip. definitely going to do it on mine.
Two things, First did you slide the miter base all the way over to the right to at least 45° to see if it hits the bracket for the crown stop. Secondly If you use that thumbscrew enough, that side wall looks thinner on the base, you could strip the threads... You might have to add a nut on the backside or put in some form of a “Thread-cert” to eliminate strip out of the threads... I have been following you for a while now good video Otherwise... Greg
How come you don't make yourself a zero clearance insert while you were in modify mode? Not like it seems to slow you down! Love your channel and your work. Super slick stuff dude!
I have asked this question several times, on several different you tube vids, and never a response. Why, when the saw has the ability to cut many angles, do we cut crown in the upside down position. It is extremely confusing and does not make sense. Can someone please explain.
Your badass at your craft and I've learned alot watching you. That being said, why not just cut it flat using a double miter cut if it's too big for your crown stops?
Use the other set screw from other stop to do ur hole. Then buy 2 screws definitely dewalt. They might even send u replacement screws
add a washer to that wingnut screw, it'll add more security when you have the stop overhanging.
ri mar great idea. thanks man. I don't know why I didn't think of it but it will definitely help it from stripping.
I'd be very wary of using that new hole, very thin wall and very little material to support the threads. I'd look into a threaded insert to reinforce that. Never used those crown stops and I've cut the same cove mold without issue, sometimes the crown needs to be rocked a little in the saw to make a clean splice.
Definitely hear you. The modification will probably continue with a threaded insert, or nut on the other side of the thread.
Tighten it down with the 7.25" crown, then tap a hole to add a permanent Bolt to the far end. This will keep the guide from falling.
Nice job, well done. Cheers.