I bought your ATX case on Printables, and have been printing it for about 3 days now on my Prusa Mini+. I have to say, I love your work, and it is clear that you are implementing learned strategies. I was having trouble with the butterfly joints on the side panels just popping out, so seeing you use that new, oddly angled one is super cool!
Thank you so much! Did you try applying glue to the butterfly joints? Or melting them in place? If you print the joints in the exact same filament as the side panels you can melt them into place with a soldering iron from the inside, or even use glue first in the bottom of the hole, and then soldering iron on the top for the ultimate bond, I only used a different color in the video so that it would be easier to tell them apart for the viewing experience 😊
The fact you made this printable on an A1 mini is amazing. Very beautiful design. I'm tempted to buy and build this You should consider adding space on the back where the GPU goes that can attach 2.5 inch hard drives for a mini NAS SSD build - the homelab community would eat that up. Fantastic design!
Thank you! I did try really hard to find a suitable location to put a 2.5 inch ssd, however no matter what I tried I could not comfortably fit one without compromising on GPU space or other necessary parts. Therefore I opted for a system relying solely on M.2 storage… 😅 However, I plan on making many more cases down the road, and a pure SSD NAS is on that to-do list at some point.
I downloaded this one as soon as I saw it on Printables, but I was waiting for the video before I started printing. My A1 mini is gonna be busy this week!
Thank you! 😊 I actually find it quite fun to experiment with joining methods to find the best ones! I learn new tecniques every time I make a new design 🫡
I think for the side panels, you might be able to hide the seams along the hexagons’ edges unless you’re already pushing the limits of the build plate. It will definitely be more work than just the straight seam.
You’re very welcome 😊 the thing is that when I first have to split, I rarely make stuff bigger than 360mm in any direction, which again means that’s 180mm times two, so I see no reason why I should make the split parts any larger. 😁
You didn’t mention how much work went into modeling and tolerancing the panels and components! This is a super cool project only achievable through hard work and dedication man, super cool
Thank you! Yeah, you’re right it takes a lot of time making it all work 😅 I feel like if I did say it I’d be bragging haha which isn’t the signal I want to send out. If I were like «Oh btw this is really hard but I still made it work» would sound a bit cocky if it came from myself 😂 but I appreciate that you acknowledge and appreciate the fact that it’s challenging to create 🙏
Your videos have been super neat! Enough that I am working on designing a custom nas case of my own 😅 having spent maybe 30-40 hours designing it so far and being only maybe 30% done, havomg worked on it makes me realize how much time you spend designimg these and making them easy to make!
That's awesome! I've been looking at doing a NAS case myself eventually. What motherboard form factor and how many drives are you going for? I was looking at a thin-mini-itx setup with m.2 sata controller for a future build, as you can get those boards with low-power Intel N-series chips on them.
@DigitalJedi I did look at those ones, they seemed cool, although I ended up going with a micro atx instead. The MSI PRO B550 VC Wifi seemed like a decent board for it, I get 8 Sata cables directly on it, and if I needed to expand I have three pcie slots. And I have more experience with more normal motherboards. I can try to update when I get more stuff done with the case!
Hey! Happy to hear I could be of some inspiration! And yeah, definitely. Designing PC cases that are easily printable, designed for easy assembly, and tiny printers is not for the impatient one 😅 it takes hours and hours and hours, but it’s (in most cases) worth it when you finally reach your desired outcome! It does go somewhat faster over time as you learn what potential mistakes you might make and eventually just know where to look out for them 😊
Awesome case! It's really inspirational to see how you use different techniques to fit the case together as well. A project suggestion i have is a case for a raspberry pi which has a space for a power bank, 2.5 inch drives and maybe a sim dongle. It would pretty much be a portable NAS :p
Thank you! That would definitely be an interesting project… 😁 I have something similar in my mind as a future project but mainly thought around a Pi and 2.5 ssd’s, wasn’t planning the SIM and Power bank but maybe maybe 😅
Awesome as always. Sooner or later I'll get around to getting my little second hand Ender3 setup and running so I can get into this hobby and be able to actually print a few of your designs.
Thank you Deech! Happy to see you back at this video also! 😊 If you decide to give one of the designs a shot, I’d be happy to assist you in any way I can 🫡
I got this case on printables and it is an awesome case. It would be really sweet if there was an option that allowed a little bit thicker video card. It’s a really tight fit! Keep up the great designs!
Thank you! And, I’ll keep this idea in mind as a potential follow up project when I need some new content. It could definitely be a cool addition. I’m thinking about doing a Backpack-friendly PC case V2.0 at some point but probably not now, but maybe over new years.
I love to see the joinery improvements on each new case. And PLA is probably completely fine for this kind of use. T-case is typically estimated in the 40s for CPU tdp measurements. Well below the glass transition temp of pla. Functionally people have to understand that if the air was the same temperature as the chip no cooling would be happening. This applies to the cooler too obviously. You don't get burned touching it even if the CPU is reading 100C. It's just not that hot. Side note: the just released ryzen 9000 chips are insanely low power for the performance. They match the i7s performance (that are literally melting themselves to death) using under 80W of power with overclocking ENABLED! 😮
Thank you! And yeah that’s exactly what I’m trying to tell those who are worried about the case turning into a puddle of molten plastic 😅 that the surrounding air will not ever reach the actual CPU and GPU core temperatures 👌 and now that powerful Ryzen CPU’s are getting so efficient it’s ideal for tiny builds like this 🙏
@@mabakalox2353 what infil and wall number was the print? And what's the power to cooling ratio of the PC that was put in there? Cause yeah there are tons of ways of doing this wrong. I just don't expect people to put a very power-hungry expensive computer in a cheap case. Especially not with under-sized cooling. And if you print with less plastic it becomes a problem earlier. But a PC with i/R 7 tier cpu or lower and rtx **70 or RX *800XT tier GPU with just a normal sized tower cooler only kicks out 400W on average while gaming and 550W in absolute slammed peaks. One or 2 fans running silently to circulate the air through the case easily keep that below PLA problem zone. If you don't have any fans to renew the volume of air inside the case, it is very easy to have a hotbox situation. But that's a problem for the computer's performance too. It's not really a PLA issue. I'd even argue the PLA is signaling the issue to you.
One thing I'd love to see is a mini itx pc like this, but with a good APU that's got a watercooler taking up the spot of the GPU instead. I think that would be a great portable emulator machine/ lan party takealong. Most lan party games are older and less graphically demanding anyways
great build, something i am looking at bringing to my channel is 3d printed builds, youve gave me some great ideas for joining pieces. this case looks awesome man, great job, i may have to print myself one
There are two different ways to make a joint disappear: Try to make it look as small, tight, and similar as possible or accent the joint and make it look intentional. I install tongue and groove ceilings sometimes and you'd be amazed how often people use staggered splices when they could put a perpendicular board in the center (preferably thicker) and have both sides dive into that. Now it looks like a center accent with whole boards running cleanly into it. You don't have to worry about one piece warping at a different speed and peeling away from the other butt splice. If you have splices, accenting them will often make it look cleaner. For a four-square side panel, it could look like an inset banded cross with different heights at the center splice so that one side (longer center edge) can tuck under the other piece like a lap joint, creating a shadow line with no exposed edges. Shadow lines will elevate your work to truly professional grade - that's what the seam on your Xbox controller is. It keeps out dust and moisture for secure enclosures, but also gives a more sleek appearance.
Yeah you’ve got some very good points! Especially with the shadow lines, that would make for a nice touch I’ll have to look more into! I could have also made the split along the big Hex pattern rather than straight lines, that would make for an even cleaner seam. 😊
@@makerunit That's a proper enginerding mindset. I love to see it. The diagonal bowtie splice pieces were clever. I don't plan on making any through subtractive construction mind you. But through additive construction with 3d printing, it's just as simple to make as a basic dowel.
@@notmirelnam248😁 the dowels were very simple to make actually. Just make a normal 90 degree butterfly, then offsett the top surface 45 degrees. Then use subtraction in the side panel to make the hole.
Awesome. By the way you don't even need PETG, if you use Protopasta HTPLA and anneal it (bake it in an oven essentially) it will thereafter maintain its form up to 155 celsius.
@@makerunit you can try making it like a Sandwitch style, Basically bottom layer we'd have HDD/SSD, PSU and Probably(User Choise) Space for an DVD/Blue-Ray/Floppy(using a Floppy drive would be Ridiculous but there are people who still use it just for shts and giggles) while we'd have the GPU and the Mobo on top of them on the 2nd layer. basically a Horizontal PC case rather than a Vertical usecase
@@nicktheneko I see. Not sure if I got it 100% but I think I get the idea 😁 actually not too far from what I already had in mind if this project comes up. Though my idea did not involve floppy disks and blu-ray disks 😅
@@makerunit check out the 'CHIEFTEC CI-02B-OP" and the Mother of Horizontal Cases the "Cooler Master RC- 902XB-KKN2" they're on the "BIG BOI" side but still a cool design and prevents GPU sagging, i love the Cooler Master Case but it's too expensive for a PC case honestly and to be honest that case Design has been in existence since a long looong time(around like 5 to 10 or more years)
Thank you 😊 I have some future plans to make an even more backpack/travel friendly case, probably not for a few months though as I have other projects coming first. At some point in the future I want to create something that’s intentionally built to be carried by a handle. 😊
I would love to build this. Not that I've ever done 3-D printing. Nor do I have need for a dedicated gaming rig. I would print the center in the most intense metal color I could. Probably bronze or copper. The side panels would be a nice apple red.
Thank you! I’m happy to hear you like it! There are definitely things that can be done to make it SFX psu compatible also, but it would force it to be slightly bigger. 😊 maybe I’ll make a v2 some day with this in mind!
@@makerunit That would be fantastic! I'd say Flex and SFX power supplies have changed a lot through time, but the latter are quieter! the larger fans sure help bringing the noise levels down. 25-ish mm is all I think it'll take to make it a perfect fit for an SFX supply too, perhaps it won't knock too much of the thin aesthetic out in the way!
@@DaWalkDude for this one I wanted specifically to be able to fit it onto a 300x300mm print bed, if I were to use a SFX psu I’d end up at about 320. But I do like the idea of more versions!
"And from my experience, I've found that honeycomb infill is the strongest option when it comes to infill only panels" But of course! As we all know, hexagon is the bestagon!
Unfortunately i think 83°C is the design throttle threshold for that card. Many of those cards are on the edge of throttling from the factory no matter the incoming air temperature or case airflow. I wonder about airflow impedance vs. air noise vs. air cleaning potential of various infills. Because there is naturally dust in the air, and it's nice when you don't have to worry about computer components gaining dust and only need to wash removable enclosure pieces instead. I have an impression that Gyroid infill will make for a pretty effective air filter, since it forces the air to twist and mix around, potentially giving extra opportunity for dust particle to touch the infill. But i wonder what the outcome is on noise, whether it will create more air friction noise on the surface, or on the other hand happen to block sound waves. You can make a lot of trick infills. For example you can manipulate extrusion width to be smaller than nozzle width - and increase perimeter overlap - to create thinner denser structure for straight line type infills.
I see! Kind of makes sense! About Gyroid infill, I’ve actually used it as a «filter» before and it seemed to work pretty well, the only downside is that it’s incredibly weak, bends easily and breaks easily. But for applications where you use gyroid only as the air filter with a stronger «frame» or slot to slide the filter into, it would probably be a better fit. 😊
I’ve been working on my own design for this same idea, just with a 2.5 slot card, itx psu and 280mm aio which I already have, I gotta say, it makes it much simpler to use smaller components!😂
Yeah definitely. I was initially trying to use a SFX psu, but decided to choose the Flex PSU to make it ultra compact because it just made more sense in a build like this 😅
I don't have such a GPU so this case is not for me. However this is such an amazing design. Well thought with 2 standard fan, it mean, unlike most commercial case of the same size, this one is a bit colder. Well done.
Thank you! I’m happy to hear you like the design! The two fans are definitely helpful in just removing some of the hot air to ensure the hot air doesn’t just circulate inside the case 😊
Awesome design! I currently have a mini-ITX Board, Full ATX Powersupply and 3 Slot GPU and got that all into my Raijintek Ophion EVO case. But that only fits 2,7 slot GPUs so i had to dremel out some part of the bracket. I'd love to see your take on a case with those specs.
Thank you! I’ll keep it in mind! My goal is to eventually have a design out there to fit every single possible layout out there but that’s a lot.. so it may or may not take time, but without a goal nothing moves forward 👌🫡
Hey there! Thank you! And yeah I’m thinking about doing that at some point. However I’m not sure when exactly. I’m also not very familiat with rack mounts in general so I would need to do some research on that as well first.
Another awesome case! I printed out the Nas case and realized its an ITX motherboard build and i have a Matx😂 might have to switch my p1p for the k1 max for the matx case
Haha thank you! 😊 Actually, my next PC case MIGHT be a mATX compatible NAS, just sayin. Nothing official but you know, just sayin’ it MIGHT 😉 so if I were you, I would consider holding my breath for a month or so… 😅
I see you got a new phase again. This time using magnets, inserts, and tracks. In the end, you end up using a lot of filament, due to the usage of tracks and inserts. The mesh also ends up really restrictive. But, that is more or less the results of the techniques you use. Also, your tolerance for noise is way higher than mine, as this has to be noisy, due to really restrictive and sub optimal airflow. But you offering a case for small printers is quite a feat, so congrats on that one. Your assembly techniques are really improving.
It’s a little noisy under load but honestly most people would be wearing headphones during gaming, as that’s what this system is intended for, a portable gaming pc with mid-range components. There are always ways to cut filament but often at the cost of structural stability, and especially for a build intended for the backpack, it needs to be sturdy. I’m not saying it’s perfect but I’m very happy with it 😊 I’m glad to read that you notice some improvements, and that’s my future plan as well, more improvements, I learn new things every time.
@@makerunit Sure. I kind of tried to point out in a diplomatic way, that the case has really bad air flow. You have chosen that, it is not needed. I guess I have to leave it at that. As for people looking at printing this thing, your VRM temp, as the temp of the backside of the MB needs to stay below 65C for PETG, so do not use Gigabyte AM5 MBs.
That looks great. I have acres to a 3d printer at work and I wanted to start a case protect like this for my build. Where should I start? What programs to use for the design etc?
Hi! Thank you. Personally I started in Sketchup many years ago but I can’t really recommend it for this type of designing. So currently I’m using Shapr3D and I’m really happy with it. They have a free version that you can play around with a bit. 😊 I’d start with just learning some basics. Don’t jump right onto a complicated project, try to make it super simple at first to get the hang of it, then slowly add details as you learn.
Very cool case. I have been looking for a good vertical mATX case with a small desktop foot print. I only found SilverStone G1M, there is a huge lack of choices. Looking forward to see what you have next regardless.
Love this design my only observation/question is why wasn't the riser cable secured down with threaded inserts for extra rigidity of the gpu? (on top the two screws already used)
Thank you! And I decided not to because due to the way it’s designed it would be difficult to insert large GPU’s near the max size limit if I did that. 😊 I did consider making a custom height adjustable height support but ended up not 😅
Great work as always! would love this but APU so thinner and not as long? :P I have the A1 non mini now so max size for me is 256x256 maybe a single 16x slot for us with ITX mobos with bifurcation for more NVME SSD's
Yeah, I did some adjustments to my printer right before starting the print, and ended up tensioning my belts too much, I realized that actually about halfway into the prints but decided to just finish with it that way. I’m working on correcting that right now actually 😊 and, thanks!
I hate heated inserts, I prefair nuts on the other side of the print (or in slot). Those are cheaper and easier to buy. Also always you can take it out from used/broken part. Anyway good job and realy nice design.
That’s definitely a valid point! The re-useability of nuts would be nice, but again I think threaded inserts offer an overall cleaner product, and they are so cheap in a pack of 200-500 anyways so it’s really no point re-using them anyways. And thank you, I’m glad you like my design! 😊
@@muhammadadnanhutomo ahh, I’ve got the perfect excuse. Print it in all black, mount it to the wall and say it’s your new electric car charger, most people won’t know the difference 😂
Haha, yeah, that’s not really how it works, but I get your concern. Also, I’m specifically recommending to use PETG or another high temperature resistant filament to print this 😊
Only problem is that I can't find a flex ATX PSU at the 700W that I need for the rig I'm building, and the closest thing is a 600W from silverstone for $175 which is over my budget for a PSU.
What parts do you have? Sometimes power supply recommendations from GPU manufacturers have a lot of safe margins, because they take into consideration that you’ll be using tons of fans, hard drives etc etc accessories. In a simple system like this with very few parts it should be able to run on a lower wattage. For instance, I’ve got a 450w SFX psu that I’ve ran a 2070 Super + i5 10400 on for a long time without any issues, even though the manufacturer recommendation for the 2070 says 650w. Totally up to you but try to calculate the max power usage of each part you intend on adding including cpu fans and chassis fans, then take into consideration the «efficiency» of the hard drive, if you’ve still got a bit of wiggle room after subrtracting the efficiency rating, you should be good to go 😊
Hello. There are a lot of cheap motherboards with size 19x19 cm, that is formally matx, but in fact these are much smaller than max matx size. These are narrower motherboards with 2 pci slots, upper is usually x1 slot, lower is x16. Can you make a 3d printed case for this and 2-slot videocard? Maybe with pci e riser used. Or without it. Thank you.
I really love the design of this case, compact and easy to carry everywhere but my gpu is 320mm long🥺🥺i wish there is option or tips for modification for longer gpu
Something I was thinking about would be a modular case design that could be expanded for bigger mobo sizes, so the smallest "build out" could be ITX or then you could slide on a couple of expander pieces to fit a Micro ATX or full ATX, then you could do the same with the outside case panels.
I’m glad you liked the build! That’s definitely an interesting layout that may be considered in a future build! 😊 I’ll note it down for when I need more ideas!
Hello 👋 First I'd like to say this is very impressive. I've been following your channel since your second case build. There's only been 1 case I didn't find aesthetically pleasing. I'm envious of your design skills. Second I'm not all that familiar with printables. I'm curious what kind of license the $12 fee gives me? I'm interested in trying to make/sell this case. I've been printing for years but I've never had an actual store item. I think this case could be a good starting point.
Hello! Thank you for the great feedback on my builds! And it’s awesome to hear that you have been with me all the way from the early days! I’m just very curious, which case was the one you didn’t find aesthetically pleasing? I’m actually planning to (if possible) move my work over to another platform, possibly Thangs, and once I get set up there I’m planning to also create a commercial license so people can sell printed copies of my designs, but it will be at a higher price because if someone is to make a profit of my designs, of course I also want a piece of the cake who spent tens or even hundreds of hours making the cases 😊 The $12 fee is just to purchase the file for personal use. You do also get the same access by being a $3 Club member but the $3 is a reccurring payment like a subscription, while the $12 is to avoid the subscription and just pay once. 😊 The only thing holding me back from Thangs at the moment is the lack of payment support for my country Norway. So I’m unable to set up a business account to receive payments…
@@makerunit The case that I wasn't fond of was inspired by a Minecraft cube. I mean I'm sure it's fine it's just not aesthetically pleasing in my opinion. ruclips.net/video/xYRxy9RvjSE/видео.htmlsi=y_F1f4KtSRiiQbYG As far as the commercial license I get wanting a bigger piece of the pie. I'm not familiar with what others charge. Not going to lie though I was hoping the $12 would cover it 😏 What do you think you'd charge for a commercial license?
@@gaara2love A commercial license would be either a monthly or annual fee, but it would include all my models, not just single models. A monthly fee for that would probably be around 25-40 dollars per month, haven’t decided yet but it would include the whole catalogue, and would be more «value» the bigger the catalogue grows to be honest… 😊 I understand this seems expensive but taking into consideration the probably thousand+ hours gone into these projects it’s not that bad. I already noticed a downside to having my membership as low as $3 a month, a lot of people will take advantage of that and sign up, download all the models and then leave, so they really pay next to nothing for the models, and that’s not a very good business model in general… and as every other creator I hope to one day be able to make a living off of just doing this and other projects so I need to make it somewhat sustainable for me too if that makes sense. But of course I’d have to put the price at a point where both I make a profit, and the seller would profit as well so people will actually sign up 😊 so there’s some thinking that has to go into the pricing.
sir, im building one for myself with my own design. i wonder if the brass screw diameter size is 3mm. the hole we have to make is how much exactly? is it same diameter with the screw brass or have to make it little bit bigger like 4mm. im really looking forward for ur reply. tq really appreciate it
Hi! I’m normally using threaded inserts that are 4.6mm on the outside. Usually I will design the holes to be about 4.4mm, that seems to be the sweet spot to make them stick nicely without making a mess, if they feel loose on 4.4 I’d try 4.2mm for the hole diameter. 😊 you could do a tiny test piece, into a little cube with two holes, one 4.4 and one 4.2 to see which one fits the best for you 😊
Are there any issues in this build with warping or softening panels? that's the one thing I'm worried about even while using abs or petg I would think that 80c wont melt but would soften and warp the plastic
What’s important to keep in mind is that if the core of a GPU is 80, it doesn’t mean that the surrounding air is 80. Same goes for the CPU, the hot spots are at the cores under the cooling fins. The air going through the cooling fins will bring with it some of that heat but far from all of it. Even with a CPU and GPU running at 80C at the same time I doubt the overall case temp will even reach 60. Probably lower. If using PETG «or better» I wouldn’t be worried. 😊
Someday we can print wireless cases, just print your use case specific case and there will be all the space for extra cooling, no cables, no zip ties, just parts, plugs and ports, clean 😌
Haha yeah at some point the technology may get there 😁 but I’m guessing when technology comes that far, we’re probably no longer using desktop PC’s anymore. We’re probably just docking our phone to a monitor to do work, play games and even edit videos 😁
Hi there! I’m not sure if I understand what you mean by using the model for professional 3D modeling. Do you mean to have someone print it for you? If so, I don’t have an exact number but I’d imagine it would be pretty pricy. The total cost of the build will come down to what filament is being used, what parts are used and a lot of other factors so it’s hard to give an exact overall price. It can range anywhere from $300 to $1000+++ depending ln your choice of hardware. 😊
@@makerunit thanks for the response : I meant can a cad software run efficiently on this pc build without troubles. By Bill of materials I mean the pc hardware without the printed parts, thank you
@@mugaggakennedy Aha! Sorry my bad, now I totally understood your question. I feel like that’s a difficult question to answer, as it will all boil down to how complex models you are going to create. A 3D model uses a lot less processing power in the beginning than towards the end. So in the beginning of a model, most PCs will run smoothly, then as soon as the complexity increases, the processing power needed will also increase. So for simple models, yeah it should be fine, for big, multi-part highly detailed models, probably not. As for the price of the parts, most parts I used in this build were older parts that are no longer sold in stores so if buying them used you’d probably be looking at roughly $400-$600 in total (just a guess), and will also depend on where you live and what marketplaces you have available.
If at all possible, i would like to request a case for a 10 inch server homelab with room for an itx mobo, an atx psu, a small gpu and 4 3.5 inch drives. Love your work, thanks :)
I’m working on a modular NAS system, which is intended to support ATX psu, ATX mobo, and an «infinite» amount of hard drives, you can basically add as many drives as you’d like in modules of 5 or 6 drives.
@ I’m aiming for something Ender 3 or smaller. My first version has already been printed with 180x180x180mm cubed per module, but this has shown some challenges, especially when using mATX or ATX motherboards as they are 244mm wide compared to the ITX boards at 170mm. Therefore I’m working on another version now that’s probably closer to 210x210x250 in size per module. Maxing out the Ender 3 print volume. This is a project that is intended to be built on over time, so I have to spend extra time making sure the first «base module» is perfect. So I haven’t fully decided on whether to stick with the 180x180mm print volume or up it to 220x220. I’ll just have to test and see what works best.
@@makerunit That makes sense. In my use case im dipping my toes in homelabbing and as i want to go with a 10 inch rack and not a 19 inch rack, it makes sense for me if the size is below the 222,5mm mark, as thats the opening width of a 10 inch rack. Also, the r/minilab subreddit is craving something like this, so building to their needs would definately make sense :D
Hi, no not really. PETG will not deform at the ambient temperatures created in such a case. In some circumstances PLA may deform slightly, which is why I recommend PETG 😊
@@janernstd9842 maybe, but my main goal is to make designs that are buildable with commonly available parts, so I’ll see about that 😊 thanks for the suggestion
This is really cool, i love it! unrelated, but i have an idea, an unusual idea, but an idea indeed, on how to make this even smaller, you could include gromits, for external watercooling that way you could cut down alot on the GPU size, since most water blocks, even for a 4090 are single slot
@@makerunit basically you take a radiator for a custom loop, you put fans on it and they make brackets to mount pumps directly onto that, and what people do is they use either gromits like on the old cases, or they just drill a hole and mount a fitting You basically have all the watercooling stuff outside, so you can take the heat and noise away from you while cooling your super small pc at a even better rate than normally most of these use quick disconnects for ease of use
It crossed my mind… I should have done it definitely 😅although, I decided not to because I thought it might interfere with the cross joint, like making it difficult to slide into place 😅
I bought your ATX case on Printables, and have been printing it for about 3 days now on my Prusa Mini+. I have to say, I love your work, and it is clear that you are implementing learned strategies. I was having trouble with the butterfly joints on the side panels just popping out, so seeing you use that new, oddly angled one is super cool!
Thank you so much! Did you try applying glue to the butterfly joints? Or melting them in place? If you print the joints in the exact same filament as the side panels you can melt them into place with a soldering iron from the inside, or even use glue first in the bottom of the hole, and then soldering iron on the top for the ultimate bond, I only used a different color in the video so that it would be easier to tell them apart for the viewing experience 😊
@@makerunit When I do the final assembly I will glue them in place, but I wanted to make sure I had all the parts in the right spot first!
@@MrScorpianwarrior That’s good! There again is a benefit of it being easy to remove, that if you want to test-fit it’s not permanent 😉
Hey. Can you share the files? :D
@@kristianjozef3198 The files are available to purchase or obtain through membership on Printables.com
Kudos for considering A1 Mini and all the extra design challenges that involved!
You’re very welcome! 😁
The days a ultra bulky itx case are over!! Thanks for sharing this.
This is the beginning of a new era 😉👌 I’m glad you like it!
The fact you made this printable on an A1 mini is amazing. Very beautiful design. I'm tempted to buy and build this You should consider adding space on the back where the GPU goes that can attach 2.5 inch hard drives for a mini NAS SSD build - the homelab community would eat that up. Fantastic design!
Thank you! I did try really hard to find a suitable location to put a 2.5 inch ssd, however no matter what I tried I could not comfortably fit one without compromising on GPU space or other necessary parts. Therefore I opted for a system relying solely on M.2 storage… 😅 However, I plan on making many more cases down the road, and a pure SSD NAS is on that to-do list at some point.
Your presentation quality and joy in the work is really shining over the last little while. Bravo, mate. Very impressed!
Thank you Aaron! I appreciate the positive feedback! 😊
not even 1 minute into the video and the magnets are such a nice touch
I’m glad you like the video so far! 😁
Couple minutes in and I'm not sure whether i should add another 3d printed case to my collection. Great work!
I mean, you can never have enough PCs right!? 😅
@@makerunit how true is that... hoarder me having like 8 of them in the closet for different experiments
@@GizmoTheGreen Only 8? You should see my closet! 😂 I do re-use most of the parts but I have A LOT of cases in storage 😉
I downloaded this one as soon as I saw it on Printables, but I was waiting for the video before I started printing. My A1 mini is gonna be busy this week!
Awesome! I’m looking forward to hearing about your experience building this 😊
All of your builds are amazing, I like where you couple parts together with just a 3d print
Thank you! 😊 I actually find it quite fun to experiment with joining methods to find the best ones! I learn new tecniques every time I make a new design 🫡
Your printables files are insanely good value considering the work involved in developing this.
Thank you! I do my best to make the «experience» as user-friendly as possible. 😊
With every video cases get better and better, good job
Thank you! I’m happy to hear you’re seeing improvements 😊
This is f****** amazing! Coolest DIY case i saw till now!
Thank you! Glad you like it! 🙏😊
I think for the side panels, you might be able to hide the seams along the hexagons’ edges unless you’re already pushing the limits of the build plate. It will definitely be more work than just the straight seam.
Yeah I actually thought about that to be honest but didn’t go through with it, although it would probably make for a cleaner result overall.
Nice case for sure. The black and olive green match is nice. I may print it as I have some spare parts over here waiting to be assembled.
Thanks Patrick! I’m glad you liked the choice of colors! I’d love to hear more about your experience if you decide to give this a shot!
You really are the master of interlocking 3d printed parts! Beautiful work!
Thank you! I appreciate it! 😊
Nice work! As someone who uses a 3d printed case I appreciate this so much more! Might be my next project.
Awesome to hear! Thank you! 😊
Really cool connection design. And I love this is designed around 270mm / 10.5" cards
Thank you! I’m glad you like it!
Each time better and better. Thanks, man.
Thank you! Happy to hear that 😊
You are a case-creating machine my friend! Great compact-computer!
Haha thank you! Glad you liked it!
Its my 3 hobbies combined, just a perfect masterpiece. Thank you so much.
Awesome! Happy to hear you like what you see 🙏
Thank you for thinking about us Prusa Mini owners (and other 180mm bed printers).
Nice design!
You’re very welcome 😊 the thing is that when I first have to split, I rarely make stuff bigger than 360mm in any direction, which again means that’s 180mm times two, so I see no reason why I should make the split parts any larger. 😁
You didn’t mention how much work went into modeling and tolerancing the panels and components! This is a super cool project only achievable through hard work and dedication man, super cool
Thank you! Yeah, you’re right it takes a lot of time making it all work 😅 I feel like if I did say it I’d be bragging haha which isn’t the signal I want to send out. If I were like «Oh btw this is really hard but I still made it work» would sound a bit cocky if it came from myself 😂 but I appreciate that you acknowledge and appreciate the fact that it’s challenging to create 🙏
@@makerunit that’s a good point! My favorite part was the “AM5” on the motherboard ❤️❤️
@@gv100_blitz haha the details are important 😅
I'd love to see your modeling videos. I don't have a printer, but it sounds fascinating.
Your videos have been super neat! Enough that I am working on designing a custom nas case of my own 😅 having spent maybe 30-40 hours designing it so far and being only maybe 30% done, havomg worked on it makes me realize how much time you spend designimg these and making them easy to make!
That's awesome! I've been looking at doing a NAS case myself eventually. What motherboard form factor and how many drives are you going for? I was looking at a thin-mini-itx setup with m.2 sata controller for a future build, as you can get those boards with low-power Intel N-series chips on them.
@DigitalJedi I did look at those ones, they seemed cool, although I ended up going with a micro atx instead. The MSI PRO B550 VC Wifi seemed like a decent board for it, I get 8 Sata cables directly on it, and if I needed to expand I have three pcie slots. And I have more experience with more normal motherboards. I can try to update when I get more stuff done with the case!
Hey! Happy to hear I could be of some inspiration! And yeah, definitely. Designing PC cases that are easily printable, designed for easy assembly, and tiny printers is not for the impatient one 😅 it takes hours and hours and hours, but it’s (in most cases) worth it when you finally reach your desired outcome!
It does go somewhat faster over time as you learn what potential mistakes you might make and eventually just know where to look out for them 😊
Awesome case! It's really inspirational to see how you use different techniques to fit the case together as well. A project suggestion i have is a case for a raspberry pi which has a space for a power bank, 2.5 inch drives and maybe a sim dongle. It would pretty much be a portable NAS :p
Thank you! That would definitely be an interesting project… 😁 I have something similar in my mind as a future project but mainly thought around a Pi and 2.5 ssd’s, wasn’t planning the SIM and Power bank but maybe maybe 😅
Awesome as always. Sooner or later I'll get around to getting my little second hand Ender3 setup and running so I can get into this hobby and be able to actually print a few of your designs.
Thank you Deech! Happy to see you back at this video also! 😊 If you decide to give one of the designs a shot, I’d be happy to assist you in any way I can 🫡
I got this case on printables and it is an awesome case. It would be really sweet if there was an option that allowed a little bit thicker video card. It’s a really tight fit! Keep up the great designs!
Thank you! And, I’ll keep this idea in mind as a potential follow up project when I need some new content. It could definitely be a cool addition. I’m thinking about doing a Backpack-friendly PC case V2.0 at some point but probably not now, but maybe over new years.
Another fantastic build! Never disappointing. 😊
Heey there! Thank you so much! I’m happy to see you took a trip over here to my video!
I love to see the joinery improvements on each new case.
And PLA is probably completely fine for this kind of use. T-case is typically estimated in the 40s for CPU tdp measurements. Well below the glass transition temp of pla.
Functionally people have to understand that if the air was the same temperature as the chip no cooling would be happening. This applies to the cooler too obviously. You don't get burned touching it even if the CPU is reading 100C. It's just not that hot.
Side note: the just released ryzen 9000 chips are insanely low power for the performance. They match the i7s performance (that are literally melting themselves to death) using under 80W of power with overclocking ENABLED! 😮
Thank you! And yeah that’s exactly what I’m trying to tell those who are worried about the case turning into a puddle of molten plastic 😅 that the surrounding air will not ever reach the actual CPU and GPU core temperatures 👌 and now that powerful Ryzen CPU’s are getting so efficient it’s ideal for tiny builds like this 🙏
PLA is not good enoght, have seen 3d printed case which deforms (
optimum
)
@@mabakalox2353 what infil and wall number was the print? And what's the power to cooling ratio of the PC that was put in there?
Cause yeah there are tons of ways of doing this wrong. I just don't expect people to put a very power-hungry expensive computer in a cheap case. Especially not with under-sized cooling.
And if you print with less plastic it becomes a problem earlier.
But a PC with i/R 7 tier cpu or lower and rtx **70 or RX *800XT tier GPU with just a normal sized tower cooler only kicks out 400W on average while gaming and 550W in absolute slammed peaks. One or 2 fans running silently to circulate the air through the case easily keep that below PLA problem zone.
If you don't have any fans to renew the volume of air inside the case, it is very easy to have a hotbox situation. But that's a problem for the computer's performance too. It's not really a PLA issue. I'd even argue the PLA is signaling the issue to you.
@@SquintyGears That’s actually a very good point. The damage to the PLA is a clear indication that the system generally is running too hot. 😊
I love this. Would love to modify the aesthetic of the design and print the side panel in a transparent resin
I’m glad you like the design 🙏😊 could look cool with some transparent sides!
One thing I'd love to see is a mini itx pc like this, but with a good APU that's got a watercooler taking up the spot of the GPU instead. I think that would be a great portable emulator machine/ lan party takealong. Most lan party games are older and less graphically demanding anyways
Definitely an interesting build! I’m aiming to try to do more APU builds next year as well.
like every video! simple and ingenious! I love your miniITX projects!
Thank you! I appreciate it!
great build, something i am looking at bringing to my channel is 3d printed builds, youve gave me some great ideas for joining pieces. this case looks awesome man, great job, i may have to print myself one
Awesome to hear! Thank you! 🙏
Well done man. Very creative and beautiful!
Thank you! 😊
There are two different ways to make a joint disappear: Try to make it look as small, tight, and similar as possible or accent the joint and make it look intentional. I install tongue and groove ceilings sometimes and you'd be amazed how often people use staggered splices when they could put a perpendicular board in the center (preferably thicker) and have both sides dive into that. Now it looks like a center accent with whole boards running cleanly into it. You don't have to worry about one piece warping at a different speed and peeling away from the other butt splice. If you have splices, accenting them will often make it look cleaner. For a four-square side panel, it could look like an inset banded cross with different heights at the center splice so that one side (longer center edge) can tuck under the other piece like a lap joint, creating a shadow line with no exposed edges. Shadow lines will elevate your work to truly professional grade - that's what the seam on your Xbox controller is. It keeps out dust and moisture for secure enclosures, but also gives a more sleek appearance.
Yeah you’ve got some very good points! Especially with the shadow lines, that would make for a nice touch I’ll have to look more into! I could have also made the split along the big Hex pattern rather than straight lines, that would make for an even cleaner seam. 😊
@@makerunit That's a proper enginerding mindset. I love to see it. The diagonal bowtie splice pieces were clever. I don't plan on making any through subtractive construction mind you. But through additive construction with 3d printing, it's just as simple to make as a basic dowel.
@@notmirelnam248😁 the dowels were very simple to make actually. Just make a normal 90 degree butterfly, then offsett the top surface 45 degrees. Then use subtraction in the side panel to make the hole.
Awesome. By the way you don't even need PETG, if you use Protopasta HTPLA and anneal it (bake it in an oven essentially) it will thereafter maintain its form up to 155 celsius.
Thank you! That’s interesting, never heard of that type of filament 👌
Dude, this is such a great design. Well done!
Thank you so much!😊
I'd love to see this kind of Case Design but for a whole ATX Mobo and PSU
I see, thanks for the suggestion! I’ll keep it in mind 😊
@@makerunit you can try making it like a Sandwitch style, Basically bottom layer we'd have HDD/SSD, PSU and Probably(User Choise) Space for an DVD/Blue-Ray/Floppy(using a Floppy drive would be Ridiculous but there are people who still use it just for shts and giggles) while we'd have the GPU and the Mobo on top of them on the 2nd layer. basically a Horizontal PC case rather than a Vertical usecase
@@nicktheneko I see. Not sure if I got it 100% but I think I get the idea 😁 actually not too far from what I already had in mind if this project comes up. Though my idea did not involve floppy disks and blu-ray disks 😅
@@makerunit check out the 'CHIEFTEC CI-02B-OP" and the Mother of Horizontal Cases the "Cooler Master RC- 902XB-KKN2" they're on the "BIG BOI" side but still a cool design and prevents GPU sagging, i love the Cooler Master Case but it's too expensive for a PC case honestly and to be honest that case Design has been in existence since a long looong time(around like 5 to 10 or more years)
@@makerunit basically something like the "Cooler Master RC-902XB-KKN2"
For the split parts, if you moved the split to the hex pattern you could hide it almost completely without harming rigidity.
That’s very true! Great idea to keep in mind for future similar scenarios.
Congrats for this new baby. Would you consider designing a handeld? Would be so cool
Thank you 😊 I have some future plans to make an even more backpack/travel friendly case, probably not for a few months though as I have other projects coming first. At some point in the future I want to create something that’s intentionally built to be carried by a handle. 😊
Спасибо огромное вам! Вы мне очень помогли! Ваш проект просто прекрасен!!
I’m glad to hear that! Thank you for your kind comment! 😊
this looks so sick i want one so bad
Thank you! 😊
I would love to build this. Not that I've ever done 3-D printing. Nor do I have need for a dedicated gaming rig.
I would print the center in the most intense metal color I could. Probably bronze or copper. The side panels would be a nice apple red.
That would be an interesting color combo to see in real life! 👌 Glad you like the design!
outstanding piece of engineering!
Thank you! 😊
Liking this design a lot!
Makes me wonder if a couple things could be tweaked here and there to make it compatible with SFX supplies too!
Thank you! I’m happy to hear you like it! There are definitely things that can be done to make it SFX psu compatible also, but it would force it to be slightly bigger. 😊 maybe I’ll make a v2 some day with this in mind!
@@makerunit That would be fantastic! I'd say Flex and SFX power supplies have changed a lot through time, but the latter are quieter! the larger fans sure help bringing the noise levels down.
25-ish mm is all I think it'll take to make it a perfect fit for an SFX supply too, perhaps it won't knock too much of the thin aesthetic out in the way!
@@DaWalkDude for this one I wanted specifically to be able to fit it onto a 300x300mm print bed, if I were to use a SFX psu I’d end up at about 320. But I do like the idea of more versions!
This project is quite awesome! 😮
Thank you! 😊
"And from my experience, I've found that honeycomb infill is the strongest option when it comes to infill only panels"
But of course! As we all know, hexagon is the bestagon!
Yestagon you are rightagon! 🫡
Unfortunately i think 83°C is the design throttle threshold for that card. Many of those cards are on the edge of throttling from the factory no matter the incoming air temperature or case airflow.
I wonder about airflow impedance vs. air noise vs. air cleaning potential of various infills. Because there is naturally dust in the air, and it's nice when you don't have to worry about computer components gaining dust and only need to wash removable enclosure pieces instead.
I have an impression that Gyroid infill will make for a pretty effective air filter, since it forces the air to twist and mix around, potentially giving extra opportunity for dust particle to touch the infill. But i wonder what the outcome is on noise, whether it will create more air friction noise on the surface, or on the other hand happen to block sound waves.
You can make a lot of trick infills. For example you can manipulate extrusion width to be smaller than nozzle width - and increase perimeter overlap - to create thinner denser structure for straight line type infills.
I see! Kind of makes sense!
About Gyroid infill, I’ve actually used it as a «filter» before and it seemed to work pretty well, the only downside is that it’s incredibly weak, bends easily and breaks easily. But for applications where you use gyroid only as the air filter with a stronger «frame» or slot to slide the filter into, it would probably be a better fit. 😊
I’ve been working on my own design for this same idea, just with a 2.5 slot card, itx psu and 280mm aio which I already have, I gotta say, it makes it much simpler to use smaller components!😂
Yeah definitely. I was initially trying to use a SFX psu, but decided to choose the Flex PSU to make it ultra compact because it just made more sense in a build like this 😅
Wish I had a 3d printer. Would sure give it a go
Maybe this is your excuse to get one? 😉
I’m excited to give this a shot with a Ryzen 9 7900 (non X variant) it’s 65watts also. As well as using the Nvidia 4070 Super, which is a 220Watt GPU.
Hey Shaun! Happy to see you back here! I’m looking forward to hearing about your experience with the case 😊
I don't have such a GPU so this case is not for me. However this is such an amazing design. Well thought with 2 standard fan, it mean, unlike most commercial case of the same size, this one is a bit colder. Well done.
Thank you! I’m happy to hear you like the design! The two fans are definitely helpful in just removing some of the hot air to ensure the hot air doesn’t just circulate inside the case 😊
Awesome design!
I currently have a mini-ITX Board, Full ATX Powersupply and 3 Slot GPU and got that all into my Raijintek Ophion EVO case. But that only fits 2,7 slot GPUs so i had to dremel out some part of the bracket.
I'd love to see your take on a case with those specs.
Thank you! I’ll keep it in mind! My goal is to eventually have a design out there to fit every single possible layout out there but that’s a lot.. so it may or may not take time, but without a goal nothing moves forward 👌🫡
That is extremely ambitious and i am all here for it lol!
Great work you do here! Keep it up, but don't stress yourself out please!
@@Nepoxification haha great to hear you’ll be by my side through it all 🫡
I just got back from a LAN party, wish I had this!
If you start now you’ll have it in time for your next one! 😁
Just wondering from your awesome work on computer cases. Have you considered making rack mounts for servers, drives, ...?
Hey there! Thank you! And yeah I’m thinking about doing that at some point. However I’m not sure when exactly. I’m also not very familiat with rack mounts in general so I would need to do some research on that as well first.
Another awesome case! I printed out the Nas case and realized its an ITX motherboard build and i have a Matx😂 might have to switch my p1p for the k1 max for the matx case
Haha thank you! 😊 Actually, my next PC case MIGHT be a mATX compatible NAS, just sayin. Nothing official but you know, just sayin’ it MIGHT 😉 so if I were you, I would consider holding my breath for a month or so… 😅
That would be awesome cannot wait to see it!
Whole new meaning to building a pc.
😁👌
I see you got a new phase again. This time using magnets, inserts, and tracks. In the end, you end up using a lot of filament, due to the usage of tracks and inserts. The mesh also ends up really restrictive. But, that is more or less the results of the techniques you use. Also, your tolerance for noise is way higher than mine, as this has to be noisy, due to really restrictive and sub optimal airflow. But you offering a case for small printers is quite a feat, so congrats on that one. Your assembly techniques are really improving.
It’s a little noisy under load but honestly most people would be wearing headphones during gaming, as that’s what this system is intended for, a portable gaming pc with mid-range components.
There are always ways to cut filament but often at the cost of structural stability, and especially for a build intended for the backpack, it needs to be sturdy. I’m not saying it’s perfect but I’m very happy with it 😊
I’m glad to read that you notice some improvements, and that’s my future plan as well, more improvements, I learn new things every time.
@@makerunit Sure. I kind of tried to point out in a diplomatic way, that the case has really bad air flow. You have chosen that, it is not needed. I guess I have to leave it at that.
As for people looking at printing this thing, your VRM temp, as the temp of the backside of the MB needs to stay below 65C for PETG, so do not use Gigabyte AM5 MBs.
Man this is really cool!
Thanks! I’m glad you like it 😊
That looks great. I have acres to a 3d printer at work and I wanted to start a case protect like this for my build. Where should I start? What programs to use for the design etc?
Hi! Thank you. Personally I started in Sketchup many years ago but I can’t really recommend it for this type of designing. So currently I’m using Shapr3D and I’m really happy with it. They have a free version that you can play around with a bit. 😊 I’d start with just learning some basics. Don’t jump right onto a complicated project, try to make it super simple at first to get the hang of it, then slowly add details as you learn.
@@makerunit Thanks a lot for your response. I'll definitely try it out :D
Very cool case. I have been looking for a good vertical mATX case with a small desktop foot print. I only found SilverStone G1M, there is a huge lack of choices. Looking forward to see what you have next regardless.
I see! I’d be interested in trying to create a super slim mATX case as well at some point 😊
awesome job....in the future its possible to see an case with 170-180mm gpu and flex psu? about 6 liter
Should be doable! I’ll keep it in mind as a potential project’
Love this design my only observation/question is why wasn't the riser cable secured down with threaded inserts for extra rigidity of the gpu? (on top the two screws already used)
Thank you! And I decided not to because due to the way it’s designed it would be difficult to insert large GPU’s near the max size limit if I did that. 😊 I did consider making a custom height adjustable height support but ended up not 😅
Great work as always!
would love this but APU so thinner and not as long? :P I have the A1 non mini now so max size for me is 256x256
maybe a single 16x slot for us with ITX mobos with bifurcation for more NVME SSD's
Thank you!
This design style is definitely doable in more form factors so I’ll be sure to keep that in mind 😊
Need to dial in your input shaper. Looks like you got quite a bit of ringing(like around the numbering)
Nice case though
Yeah, I did some adjustments to my printer right before starting the print, and ended up tensioning my belts too much, I realized that actually about halfway into the prints but decided to just finish with it that way. I’m working on correcting that right now actually 😊 and, thanks!
ausome design with nice solutions for details ❤
Thank you! :) I appreciate the positive feedback!
I hate heated inserts, I prefair nuts on the other side of the print (or in slot). Those are cheaper and easier to buy. Also always you can take it out from used/broken part. Anyway good job and realy nice design.
That’s definitely a valid point! The re-useability of nuts would be nice, but again I think threaded inserts offer an overall cleaner product, and they are so cheap in a pack of 200-500 anyways so it’s really no point re-using them anyways.
And thank you, I’m glad you like my design! 😊
awesome work, cheers!
Thank you! 😊
Great work as always, now i have to find an excuse to build another PC with 3 PCs available and running in my house....
Haha thank you! 🙏 Hmm, an excuse? Tell your partner/family it’s for your new home security system 😉
@@makerunit darn it, i have used that excuse for the last build🤣
@@muhammadadnanhutomo ahh, I’ve got the perfect excuse. Print it in all black, mount it to the wall and say it’s your new electric car charger, most people won’t know the difference 😂
Great video. Please make a case for SFX PSU next!
I plan to make more cases that support this as well 😊
you could try to contact steel factory and make stainless steal build that will look amazing
At some point in the future, I hope to get to that! 😊🫡
awesome design!
Thank you!
This is great design what is the maximum cooler cpu?
Thank you! The maximum clearance is about 40mm.
Neat, I'd set the visible infill to 0 degrees though.
Thanks! I keep forgetting that setting between every build haha… 😁
imagine after some ultra settings gaming your pc case has completely melted lol
Haha, yeah, that’s not really how it works, but I get your concern. Also, I’m specifically recommending to use PETG or another high temperature resistant filament to print this 😊
@@makerunit yeah I'm just goofin :)
Only problem is that I can't find a flex ATX PSU at the 700W that I need for the rig I'm building, and the closest thing is a 600W from silverstone for $175 which is over my budget for a PSU.
What parts do you have? Sometimes power supply recommendations from GPU manufacturers have a lot of safe margins, because they take into consideration that you’ll be using tons of fans, hard drives etc etc accessories. In a simple system like this with very few parts it should be able to run on a lower wattage.
For instance, I’ve got a 450w SFX psu that I’ve ran a 2070 Super + i5 10400 on for a long time without any issues, even though the manufacturer recommendation for the 2070 says 650w. Totally up to you but try to calculate the max power usage of each part you intend on adding including cpu fans and chassis fans, then take into consideration the «efficiency» of the hard drive, if you’ve still got a bit of wiggle room after subrtracting the efficiency rating, you should be good to go 😊
Hello. There are a lot of cheap motherboards with size 19x19 cm, that is formally matx, but in fact these are much smaller than max matx size. These are narrower motherboards with 2 pci slots, upper is usually x1 slot, lower is x16. Can you make a 3d printed case for this and 2-slot videocard? Maybe with pci e riser used. Or without it. Thank you.
Ah, I didn’t know that! I’ll look into those 😊
@@makerunit for example you can find Asrock H310CM-DVS
Nice video man. Since you are into 3D printing computer cases, maybe you'd be interested in Miyconst's designs. I thought they looked great.
Thank you! I’ll look into that! 🫡
I really love the design of this case, compact and easy to carry everywhere but my gpu is 320mm long🥺🥺i wish there is option or tips for modification for longer gpu
I totally feel you. I’ll do my best to come out with more cases and hopefully also one to fit your need eventually 😊
@@makerunit thanks for reply😁😁, i also would like to suggest N-ATX case like SFF Time N-ATX for your future project
anything that can be printed with 256*256*256 bed from the bigger version? Is there some mix and matching?
nevermind you answered in the video :D
Yeah, the top and front external panels are intentionally made their sizes to fit the Bambu beds 🫡
Awesome stuff!
Thank you! 😊
Something I was thinking about would be a modular case design that could be expanded for bigger mobo sizes, so the smallest "build out" could be ITX or then you could slide on a couple of expander pieces to fit a Micro ATX or full ATX, then you could do the same with the outside case panels.
Definitely doable, I’ll keep it in mind! 😊
@@makerunit If you ever want to brainstorm about ideas let me know. (I have pc hardware and case ideas but not much practical printing experience)
Thanks for sharing this nice itx design. Next design maybe a horizontal itx case like Z Case P50 for sfx psu :)
I’m glad you liked the build! That’s definitely an interesting layout that may be considered in a future build! 😊 I’ll note it down for when I need more ideas!
Hello 👋
First I'd like to say this is very impressive. I've been following your channel since your second case build. There's only been 1 case I didn't find aesthetically pleasing. I'm envious of your design skills.
Second I'm not all that familiar with printables. I'm curious what kind of license the $12 fee gives me? I'm interested in trying to make/sell this case. I've been printing for years but I've never had an actual store item. I think this case could be a good starting point.
Hello! Thank you for the great feedback on my builds! And it’s awesome to hear that you have been with me all the way from the early days! I’m just very curious, which case was the one you didn’t find aesthetically pleasing?
I’m actually planning to (if possible) move my work over to another platform, possibly Thangs, and once I get set up there I’m planning to also create a commercial license so people can sell printed copies of my designs, but it will be at a higher price because if someone is to make a profit of my designs, of course I also want a piece of the cake who spent tens or even hundreds of hours making the cases 😊
The $12 fee is just to purchase the file for personal use. You do also get the same access by being a $3 Club member but the $3 is a reccurring payment like a subscription, while the $12 is to avoid the subscription and just pay once. 😊
The only thing holding me back from Thangs at the moment is the lack of payment support for my country Norway. So I’m unable to set up a business account to receive payments…
@@makerunit The case that I wasn't fond of was inspired by a Minecraft cube. I mean I'm sure it's fine it's just not aesthetically pleasing in my opinion.
ruclips.net/video/xYRxy9RvjSE/видео.htmlsi=y_F1f4KtSRiiQbYG
As far as the commercial license I get wanting a bigger piece of the pie. I'm not familiar with what others charge. Not going to lie though I was hoping the $12 would cover it 😏 What do you think you'd charge for a commercial license?
@@gaara2love A commercial license would be either a monthly or annual fee, but it would include all my models, not just single models. A monthly fee for that would probably be around 25-40 dollars per month, haven’t decided yet but it would include the whole catalogue, and would be more «value» the bigger the catalogue grows to be honest… 😊 I understand this seems expensive but taking into consideration the probably thousand+ hours gone into these projects it’s not that bad.
I already noticed a downside to having my membership as low as $3 a month, a lot of people will take advantage of that and sign up, download all the models and then leave, so they really pay next to nothing for the models, and that’s not a very good business model in general… and as every other creator I hope to one day be able to make a living off of just doing this and other projects so I need to make it somewhat sustainable for me too if that makes sense. But of course I’d have to put the price at a point where both I make a profit, and the seller would profit as well so people will actually sign up 😊 so there’s some thinking that has to go into the pricing.
This is awesome!
Thank you! 😊
Thank you! 😊
sir, im building one for myself with my own design. i wonder if the brass screw diameter size is 3mm. the hole we have to make is how much exactly? is it same diameter with the screw brass or have to make it little bit bigger like 4mm. im really looking forward for ur reply. tq really appreciate it
Hi! I’m normally using threaded inserts that are 4.6mm on the outside. Usually I will design the holes to be about 4.4mm, that seems to be the sweet spot to make them stick nicely without making a mess, if they feel loose on 4.4 I’d try 4.2mm for the hole diameter. 😊 you could do a tiny test piece, into a little cube with two holes, one 4.4 and one 4.2 to see which one fits the best for you 😊
@@makerunit understood. tq so much for the kind reply.
Are there any issues in this build with warping or softening panels? that's the one thing I'm worried about even while using abs or petg I would think that 80c wont melt but would soften and warp the plastic
What’s important to keep in mind is that if the core of a GPU is 80, it doesn’t mean that the surrounding air is 80. Same goes for the CPU, the hot spots are at the cores under the cooling fins. The air going through the cooling fins will bring with it some of that heat but far from all of it. Even with a CPU and GPU running at 80C at the same time I doubt the overall case temp will even reach 60. Probably lower. If using PETG «or better» I wouldn’t be worried. 😊
Would it be recommended to make the whole thing out of PETG, or just the innards of the case?
Hi, generally I’d recommend PETG for the whole thing if you can 😊
Exact case I wanted perfection.
Awesome to hear! Thanks for dropping by!
Someday we can print wireless cases, just print your use case specific case and there will be all the space for extra cooling, no cables, no zip ties, just parts, plugs and ports, clean 😌
Haha yeah at some point the technology may get there 😁 but I’m guessing when technology comes that far, we’re probably no longer using desktop PC’s anymore. We’re probably just docking our phone to a monitor to do work, play games and even edit videos 😁
@@makerunittake that back. You’re suggesting we eventually stop building our own pc’s?! Blasphemy.
@@ojizzle20 I'm sorry, I take it back. :D
Hello : can this build be used for professional 3d modeling, is it a great pc and whats the total bill of the pc parts, thank you
Hi there!
I’m not sure if I understand what you mean by using the model for professional 3D modeling. Do you mean to have someone print it for you? If so, I don’t have an exact number but I’d imagine it would be pretty pricy.
The total cost of the build will come down to what filament is being used, what parts are used and a lot of other factors so it’s hard to give an exact overall price. It can range anywhere from $300 to $1000+++ depending ln your choice of hardware. 😊
@@makerunit thanks for the response : I meant can a cad software run efficiently on this pc build without troubles.
By Bill of materials I mean the pc hardware without the printed parts, thank you
@@mugaggakennedy Aha! Sorry my bad, now I totally understood your question. I feel like that’s a difficult question to answer, as it will all boil down to how complex models you are going to create. A 3D model uses a lot less processing power in the beginning than towards the end. So in the beginning of a model, most PCs will run smoothly, then as soon as the complexity increases, the processing power needed will also increase. So for simple models, yeah it should be fine, for big, multi-part highly detailed models, probably not.
As for the price of the parts, most parts I used in this build were older parts that are no longer sold in stores so if buying them used you’d probably be looking at roughly $400-$600 in total (just a guess), and will also depend on where you live and what marketplaces you have available.
We are waiting the big 3d case. Please, you can
How big are we talking? Have you checked out my ATX case?
Great Desing!
Thank you!
noice. good work!
Thank you! 😊
Can we please get an ATX nas?
Working on it! 🫡
If at all possible, i would like to request a case for a 10 inch server homelab with room for an itx mobo, an atx psu, a small gpu and 4 3.5 inch drives.
Love your work, thanks :)
I’m working on a modular NAS system, which is intended to support ATX psu, ATX mobo, and an «infinite» amount of hard drives, you can basically add as many drives as you’d like in modules of 5 or 6 drives.
@makerunit give it a width of
@ I’m aiming for something Ender 3 or smaller. My first version has already been printed with 180x180x180mm cubed per module, but this has shown some challenges, especially when using mATX or ATX motherboards as they are 244mm wide compared to the ITX boards at 170mm.
Therefore I’m working on another version now that’s probably closer to 210x210x250 in size per module. Maxing out the Ender 3 print volume. This is a project that is intended to be built on over time, so I have to spend extra time making sure the first «base module» is perfect.
So I haven’t fully decided on whether to stick with the 180x180mm print volume or up it to 220x220. I’ll just have to test and see what works best.
@@makerunit That makes sense.
In my use case im dipping my toes in homelabbing and as i want to go with a 10 inch rack and not a 19 inch rack, it makes sense for me if the size is below the 222,5mm mark, as thats the opening width of a 10 inch rack.
Also, the r/minilab subreddit is craving something like this, so building to their needs would definately make sense :D
@ oh! Good to know! I’ll definitely keep that in mind 😊
At this point you can just buy a Prusa Mini and print your case, instead of buying it. Might even be cheaper long term
😁 Funny thing is it’s almost true, probably cheaper than some of them more «premium cases» 😂
@@makerunit Yeah, excactly
I want to print this. Does this not deflect the PETG when it has load?
Hi, no not really. PETG will not deform at the ambient temperatures created in such a case. In some circumstances PLA may deform slightly, which is why I recommend PETG 😊
@@makerunit ok thank you for your prompt reply. Hope you can design a case like Velka 5 5.7l next time which is much smaller
@@janernstd9842 maybe, but my main goal is to make designs that are buildable with commonly available parts, so I’ll see about that 😊 thanks for the suggestion
This is really cool, i love it!
unrelated, but
i have an idea, an unusual idea, but an idea indeed, on how to make this even smaller, you could include gromits, for external watercooling
that way you could cut down alot on the GPU size, since most water blocks, even for a 4090 are single slot
How does external water cooling work? Sounds interesting! Never looked much into it. Are we talking like a radiator in a separate chassis, open air?
@@makerunit basically you take a radiator for a custom loop, you put fans on it and they make brackets to mount pumps directly onto that, and what people do is they use either gromits like on the old cases, or they just drill a hole and mount a fitting
You basically have all the watercooling stuff outside, so you can take the heat and noise away from you while cooling your super small pc at a even better rate than normally
most of these use quick disconnects for ease of use
@@skorpysk I see! Sounds advanced, but could definitely make for a very cool and extremely compact build! 👌
why didnt you split the panels with the pattern? would have made the parts a bit bigger, but the cuts would be a LOT less noticeable.
It crossed my mind… I should have done it definitely 😅although, I decided not to because I thought it might interfere with the cross joint, like making it difficult to slide into place 😅
12:50 missed opportunity to make the split lines follow the hexagonal patterns
Yeah, I’ve come to realize that I could have done something much more creative there 😅