In 1983 there was a good 10-12 foot swell that was doing nothing up in my part of LA at Zuma beach so a friend and I went down to El Segundo jetty and had one of the best days of my life. I think they show a bit of the jetty in this video, it's only a half mile north of Porto. Well, like I said, 10'-12' with some 15' plus bombs. Since both of us were goofy foot we surfed the north side of the jetty and got some clean thick barrels like in this video but with wind that was blowing about 25mph from the north east right into the lefts holding them open all the way to the inside. The wind made It hard to paddle into some of the bigger waves, I pretty much had no problems with it but my buddy took a few poundings throughout the day, a few which I would see him from the backside of the wave through the huge spray which seemed in slow motion as he slowly went over the falls and into the trashing machine. He would stand up and the wind would push him back up the wave. At the time he was 6'2" about 160lbs, pretty thin for his size. I tried to get him to stay low until he was in the wave which he would do once in a while then go back to standing straight up and back to going over the falls or jumping back and getting dragged over the falls by his board and leash. I remember laughing so hard I was getting a pain in my stomach at him trying to swim away from the wave but he would get pulled over as he was still swimming but going backwards. He was a goofball anyways and on one of the over the falls backwards he saluted me which a few of the other guys out in the water saw giving everyone a good laugh. I think on a few occasions he did it on purpose, he had no fear of big waves at all while in his late 20's in the mid 1990's when big wave surfing started to get popular he would call me and try to get me to head up north to this big wave spot called "Mavericks" at the time I had no idea about the place. I went a few times without a board!!! no way I was giving anyone a reason to get me out in the water, no surfing for me but I did take photos from the bluff by the radar station which came out great. One of the times it was huge, 35 plus on the sets with some scary 50 footers catching almost everyone inside......not for me!!! That day he caught 4 waves but only one by himself, the one he caught alone was one of the bigger ones up near 50'. He whipped his board around at the last second, got in about 5 hard strokes, made it to the bottom but his board would not turn, he said to much speed and the little time he had to stand up his right forward foot was to far to the left side of the board making it impossible to turn right, he said he could not move his feet on the board because of the speed and he was off balance. He took the full brunt of the lip about 2 feet behind the tail of his board launching him out in front of the wave by 20' where the rest of the wave ran him over taking him for a ride into the abyss where someone on a jet ski picked him up right before a massive set would have driven him into the rocky outgrowth inside! Back at El Segundo in 1983 I think out of my 40 or so barrels that day I came out of 35 and most were deep barrels. 4 of the 5 that I didn't make were rights because the lefts were just perfect letting you out of the tube by backing off with a big poof of spit that would blow back in your face. The wind made these some of the biggest barrels I had ridden up until then and that's saying a lot because I lived up on the slope above drain pipes at the southern end of Zuma for the first 20 years of my life which was 17 years of surfing taught to me by my dad at age 3. Over the years we had some 15 foot swells that made drainers into a beach break pipeline but still didn't have wind like on that day that opened up the barrels. In 83 at El Segundo after about 4 hours of surfing the north side the winds changed and came from the east so It was not holding open the lefts, we went and surfed the rights on the south side of the jetty which ended up being the first long backside tubes I had to that point in my early surf years. One of reasons I'm babbling on is because that day I had a lot of firsts in my life as a surfer to that point which were only surpassed by the many years I spent surfing Mexico, the North Shore and down in Australia since. So, by about 11am the surf had gotten bigger, around 15 foot, long period sets with about 20 waves per set lined up with the wind almost dropping off to nothing. The entire day I didn't get caught inside or had any real thrashings. When ever you were inside you would paddle over to the jetty and get the pineapple express ride to the outside from the heavy inside rip. Back then I really don't remember the waves breaking out in front of the jetty, most the waves were peaky but the peaks didn't start near the jetty, the waves usually ended at the jetty, If going right on the north side or left on the south side you always got spit out towards the jetty! Does anyone know if that's what happens on a mixed peaky swell there now a days? Has the winter sand bars changed over the years? It's been about 20 years since I surfed Porto, Segundo or Shit pipe. When this happened in January of 1983 I was about 6 months through my year off from school, I had graduated In 82 and would be going to UCLA after a year off. In my second year at UCLA myself and 3 other of my UCLA surfer friends rented a house a half block up the hill south of Hermosa pier on the north side of 10th street in this little Spanish tile house, some of the best times of my life happened the 3 years I lived there.
3:55 that was the perfect claim since it did not distract from the ride itself it merely complimented it, as that is how you fuckin stand tall inside of a cold dark green spinning tube. Well done.
pretty sure you can turn your clicker off on new cameras not that you did not get some sweet close out pics..back in the day that button hold down would of cost you hundreds ..
Спорт
Guy on Red Board deserves some type of acknowledgement....
El Closeout. Takes balls to volunteer for the washing machine.
I admire those dudes just for making the paddle out. Friggin' impossible.
The wave at 3:40 was worth watching the whole video. Nice vid
In 1983 there was a good 10-12 foot swell that was doing nothing up in my part of LA at Zuma beach so a friend and I went down to El Segundo jetty and had one of the best days of my life. I think they show a bit of the jetty in this video, it's only a half mile north of Porto. Well, like I said, 10'-12' with some 15' plus bombs. Since both of us were goofy foot we surfed the north side of the jetty and got some clean thick barrels like in this video but with wind that was blowing about 25mph from the north east right into the lefts holding them open all the way to the inside. The wind made It hard to paddle into some of the bigger waves, I pretty much had no problems with it but my buddy took a few poundings throughout the day, a few which I would see him from the backside of the wave through the huge spray which seemed in slow motion as he slowly went over the falls and into the trashing machine. He would stand up and the wind would push him back up the wave. At the time he was 6'2" about 160lbs, pretty thin for his size. I tried to get him to stay low until he was in the wave which he would do once in a while then go back to standing straight up and back to going over the falls or jumping back and getting dragged over the falls by his board and leash. I remember laughing so hard I was getting a pain in my stomach at him trying to swim away from the wave but he would get pulled over as he was still swimming but going backwards. He was a goofball anyways and on one of the over the falls backwards he saluted me which a few of the other guys out in the water saw giving everyone a good laugh. I think on a few occasions he did it on purpose, he had no fear of big waves at all while in his late 20's in the mid 1990's when big wave surfing started to get popular he would call me and try to get me to head up north to this big wave spot called "Mavericks" at the time I had no idea about the place. I went a few times without a board!!! no way I was giving anyone a reason to get me out in the water, no surfing for me but I did take photos from the bluff by the radar station which came out great. One of the times it was huge, 35 plus on the sets with some scary 50 footers catching almost everyone inside......not for me!!! That day he caught 4 waves but only one by himself, the one he caught alone was one of the bigger ones up near 50'. He whipped his board around at the last second, got in about 5 hard strokes, made it to the bottom but his board would not turn, he said to much speed and the little time he had to stand up his right forward foot was to far to the left side of the board making it impossible to turn right, he said he could not move his feet on the board because of the speed and he was off balance. He took the full brunt of the lip about 2 feet behind the tail of his board launching him out in front of the wave by 20' where the rest of the wave ran him over taking him for a ride into the abyss where someone on a jet ski picked him up right before a massive set would have driven him into the rocky outgrowth inside! Back at El Segundo in 1983 I think out of my 40 or so barrels that day I came out of 35 and most were deep barrels. 4 of the 5 that I didn't make were rights because the lefts were just perfect letting you out of the tube by backing off with a big poof of spit that would blow back in your face. The wind made these some of the biggest barrels I had ridden up until then and that's saying a lot because I lived up on the slope above drain pipes at the southern end of Zuma for the first 20 years of my life which was 17 years of surfing taught to me by my dad at age 3. Over the years we had some 15 foot swells that made drainers into a beach break pipeline but still didn't have wind like on that day that opened up the barrels. In 83 at El Segundo after about 4 hours of surfing the north side the winds changed and came from the east so It was not holding open the lefts, we went and surfed the rights on the south side of the jetty which ended up being the first long backside tubes I had to that point in my early surf years. One of reasons I'm babbling on is because that day I had a lot of firsts in my life as a surfer to that point which were only surpassed by the many years I spent surfing Mexico, the North Shore and down in Australia since. So, by about 11am the surf had gotten bigger, around 15 foot, long period sets with about 20 waves per set lined up with the wind almost dropping off to nothing. The entire day I didn't get caught inside or had any real thrashings. When ever you were inside you would paddle over to the jetty and get the pineapple express ride to the outside from the heavy inside rip. Back then I really don't remember the waves breaking out in front of the jetty, most the waves were peaky but the peaks didn't start near the jetty, the waves usually ended at the jetty, If going right on the north side or left on the south side you always got spit out towards the jetty! Does anyone know if that's what happens on a mixed peaky swell there now a days? Has the winter sand bars changed over the years? It's been about 20 years since I surfed Porto, Segundo or Shit pipe. When this happened in January of 1983 I was about 6 months through my year off from school, I had graduated In 82 and would be going to UCLA after a year off. In my second year at UCLA myself and 3 other of my UCLA surfer friends rented a house a half block up the hill south of Hermosa pier on the north side of 10th street in this little Spanish tile house, some of the best times of my life happened the 3 years I lived there.
3:55 that was the perfect claim since it did not distract from the ride itself it merely complimented it, as that is how you fuckin stand tall inside of a cold dark green spinning tube. Well done.
Always this walled there..?
sorta like newport ,but walled
that was cool, thanks for uploading.
Epic. Nice footage.
Sick one @ 3:45
is that Tyler on the red board?
+Lucio G savage beast!
That was crazy!
Awesome footage brah!! siiiick
pretty sure you can turn your clicker off on new cameras not that you did not get some sweet close out pics..back in the day that button hold down would of cost you hundreds ..
+glenn sarconi I can get the shutter to be a lot quieter, but I get very few frames per second in that "silent" mode. I can live with the noise. :-)
Where are the photos?
+jamaicanking333 Surfline
ca ferme total!!!
3:46