Demonstration video showing a Polycraft GP-3481F silicone mould being cured over a plug made from Monster Clay Soft. The casting into the mould was made from SG2000.
Thx for the video. I've been looking at your products as I need a water clear resin for some small parts. I was thinking of Opticast, but notice you don't recommend Condensation cured silicone rubber as the mold. Is there a runner mold you would recommend or another clear resin combination?
the addition cure silicones are better suited when using the water clear polyesters, epoxies or polyurethanes. the opticast really need a pressure chamber to have a bubble free casting however
@@MBFibreglass thanks for coming back to me, very helpful. The parts I am casting are a bit like molding and casting a single KitKat finger! (In size I mean!) Ive been doing some testing, I have found bubbles in my second batch and the third batch with Polyester is pulling away from the rubber mould quite a bit. I have them in the house (not popular with polyester resin!) so they are at 22 ish degrees. I have compressed air in the workshop, so a small pot sounds like a plan, but I really want to find the right products too :-)
I want to recast and mold a head sculpt 1/6 scale, its been painted im afraid of the paint coming off and im afraid of damaging the original, can it get damaged and how to avoid damage?
While I am unsure of my authority on this I believe a good mould release agent will stop any paint from comming off however if the item being moulded is valuable I would not risk it on my say-so alone. I have heard of people using spray on baby oil and vaseline as a mold release as well as baby powder but I think that was for the resin casting section and not the mold making itself.
Is it possible to paint onto the SG2000 using acrylics or model paints? Also if the model was one main colour, would it be possible to dye using the epoxy pigments multipack? Thanks!
The SG2000 has good paint adhesion properties and acrylic paints can be used, for maximum adhesion a plastic primer can be used. You can use any of or polyurethane pigments with the SG2000. www.mbfg.co.uk/lr-pth-polyurethane.html www.mbfg.co.uk/polytek_pigment.html
i brought some of this of ebay the other week to make some miniatures but comes with some worrying warning labels like "can damage organs with prolonged or repeated use" , "can cause cancer. route of exposure: inhalation" so it makes me wonder is this safe for home use? i mean if im in the kitchen with the door open, even if ive got a mask on am i gonna give my kids who are sitting in the living room cancer? what kind of safety measures are needed?
Its safe to say you should not ignore the information in the safety datasheets however the datasheets are designed in mind for industry in particular and the advice provided is very much with caution in mind. A lot of the information given is also to protect the manufactures from potential civil action. As to which the safety datasheets are covering all known aspects of potential hazards that may arise. The materials are safe providing they are used correctly, section 8 will cover the safety aspects in regards to personal protective equipment recommended for use. Ultimately common sense prevails ,do not use near food or were food is prepared, keep away from children etc. These materials are better suited to a home workshop/shed/garage. If you look at the safety datasheets for common household materials such as bleach, oven cleaner, salt, vinegar etc will carry many similar warnings on use.
You can indeed, bubbles will depend on the intricacies of the mould, you could have one mould that works flawless, and another that always gives issues with air bubbles in certain spots, always best to do a test run to see first and take steps to stop it from happening. Worth keeping in mind this resin is very thin so layer build up will be quite thin, the resin is quite stiff and lacks flexural strength so very thin parts can be more brittle than a dedicated roto resin.
Hi, yes this can and is used by many of our customers for prop helmets, we have the silicone thixo available when when used with the GP-3181-F will turn it into a brush on rubber.
Hello again, sorry to reach out again, but I'm having trouble with the soft 100 foam. I think it is the right product for what Im trying to achieve but I'm not seeing the results yet. The results I have seen have been quite varied, from a soft tight cell but with hard bits through it accompanied by voids containing uncured liquid, to hard big air bubbled sorts of mess that looks more like rubber than sponge! I'm struggling to get that soft spongey consistent foam with tight cell structure that I am looking for. Iv had something like it but not without the major flaws. So it looks like i'm not mixing it properly but the thing is, it goes off like a rocket on me. I can see it bubbling up 15 seconds in to the mix and if I don't get it in the mould quick I'll not get the lid on before it erupts all over the place. I mixed at 2 - 1 with about 1% pigment. Would the reaction time me reduced if I dialed back on the part B, say 20g - 8g instead of 20g - 10g Or something like that? It's quite a small part I working on. Not much bigger than a dish sponge. Also do you know when the soft 100 foam will be back in stock? Many thanks Frank
In this instance a release isn't used as the sg2000 release cleanly from the new gp-3481-f mould, in the instance you do use release if you plan on painting the sg2000 you would consider a wax release like the no59 or macwax(wax based), if you don't plan on painting the sg2000 then the macsil (silicone based) release can be used
Macsil is a great spray on release agent..I use it for silicone and latex moulds..it also prolongs the mould life especially when using resin and concrete
Degassing will generally give better results but you can absolutely use the gp-3481-f without a vacuum chamber but a little extra care is needed to try and prevent air bubbles on the surface, on this wax surface the silicone generally moves quite freely however on porous surfaces such as dried plaster, dried clay, concrete etc. you might consider using a soft bristle brush to brush the silicone over the surface and check for any air bubbles before pouring the rest.
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Amazing
Thx for the video. I've been looking at your products as I need a water clear resin for some small parts. I was thinking of Opticast, but notice you don't recommend Condensation cured silicone rubber as the mold. Is there a runner mold you would recommend or another clear resin combination?
the addition cure silicones are better suited when using the water clear polyesters, epoxies or polyurethanes. the opticast really need a pressure chamber to have a bubble free casting however
@@MBFibreglass thanks for coming back to me, very helpful. The parts I am casting are a bit like molding and casting a single KitKat finger! (In size I mean!) Ive been doing some testing, I have found bubbles in my second batch and the third batch with Polyester is pulling away from the rubber mould quite a bit. I have them in the house (not popular with polyester resin!) so they are at 22 ish degrees. I have compressed air in the workshop, so a small pot sounds like a plan, but I really want to find the right products too :-)
I want to recast and mold a head sculpt 1/6 scale, its been painted im afraid of the paint coming off and im afraid of damaging the original, can it get damaged and how to avoid damage?
While I am unsure of my authority on this I believe a good mould release agent will stop any paint from comming off however if the item being moulded is valuable I would not risk it on my say-so alone. I have heard of people using spray on baby oil and vaseline as a mold release as well as baby powder but I think that was for the resin casting section and not the mold making itself.
Is it possible to paint onto the SG2000 using acrylics or model paints? Also if the model was one main colour, would it be possible to dye using the epoxy pigments multipack? Thanks!
The SG2000 has good paint adhesion properties and acrylic paints can be used, for maximum adhesion a plastic primer can be used. You can use any of or polyurethane pigments with the SG2000.
www.mbfg.co.uk/lr-pth-polyurethane.html
www.mbfg.co.uk/polytek_pigment.html
@@MBFibreglass Thanks for the quick response!
i brought some of this of ebay the other week to make some miniatures but comes with some worrying warning labels like "can damage organs with prolonged or repeated use" , "can cause cancer. route of exposure: inhalation" so it makes me wonder is this safe for home use?
i mean if im in the kitchen with the door open, even if ive got a mask on am i gonna give my kids who are sitting in the living room cancer?
what kind of safety measures are needed?
Its safe to say you should not ignore the information in the safety datasheets however the datasheets are designed in mind for industry in particular and the advice provided is very much with caution in mind. A lot of the information given is also to protect the manufactures from potential civil action. As to which the safety datasheets are covering all known aspects of potential hazards that may arise. The materials are safe providing they are used correctly, section 8 will cover the safety aspects in regards to personal protective equipment recommended for use. Ultimately common sense prevails ,do not use near food or were food is prepared, keep away from children etc. These materials are better suited to a home workshop/shed/garage. If you look at the safety datasheets for common household materials such as bleach, oven cleaner, salt, vinegar etc will carry many similar warnings on use.
Are you able to do small hollow casts like rotocasting with this resin? Will it leave air bubbles on the surface layer of the cast?
You can indeed, bubbles will depend on the intricacies of the mould, you could have one mould that works flawless, and another that always gives issues with air bubbles in certain spots, always best to do a test run to see first and take steps to stop it from happening. Worth keeping in mind this resin is very thin so layer build up will be quite thin, the resin is quite stiff and lacks flexural strength so very thin parts can be more brittle than a dedicated roto resin.
If I am using all 2.2kg can I pour the whole contents of all bottles or do I have to get a weighing scale for the silicone rubber and catalyst
We still recommend to weigh the materials to be certain you have exactly the right amount of material.
Is this suitable for brush on moulds. I want to mould and cast a helmet but I’m not sure which silicone to use.
Hi, yes this can and is used by many of our customers for prop helmets, we have the silicone thixo available when when used with the GP-3181-F will turn it into a brush on rubber.
Where can I find moulds like you have there that bust I already buy my sg2000 from you
Hello again, sorry to reach out again, but I'm having trouble with the soft 100 foam.
I think it is the right product for what Im trying to achieve but I'm not seeing the results yet. The results I have seen have been quite varied, from a soft tight cell but with hard bits through it accompanied by voids containing uncured liquid, to hard big air bubbled sorts of mess that looks more like rubber than sponge!
I'm struggling to get that soft spongey consistent foam with tight cell structure that I am looking for. Iv had something like it but not without the major flaws. So it looks like i'm not mixing it properly but the thing is, it goes off like a rocket on me. I can see it bubbling up 15 seconds in to the mix and if I don't get it in the mould quick I'll not get the lid on before it erupts all over the place.
I mixed at 2 - 1 with about 1% pigment.
Would the reaction time me reduced if I dialed back on the part B, say 20g - 8g instead of 20g - 10g Or something like that? It's quite a small part I working on. Not much bigger than a dish sponge.
Also do you know when the soft 100 foam will be back in stock?
Many thanks
Frank
Hi Frank, pop us an email with this email to sales@mbfg.co.uk and we can run through a few things with you to try and get you on the right track.
@@MBFibreglass wow thank you so much! I will get this over to you tonight. Many thanks!
Hello Brother can you write how much I need to put in each one pls. In like 1 cup and other is half cup example coz I'm beginning with this ...thanx
The polycraft GP-3481-F mix ratio is 10 Parts Base to 1 Part Curing agent by weight
Can you use this silicone mould to make small wax melts?
Yes the GP-3481 is widely used for candle and wax melt moulds.
Con u purchase this silicone in the USA bc I’m having trouble finding this
Sorry, we don't yet ship internationally
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What releaser/sealant would you recommend
In this instance a release isn't used as the sg2000 release cleanly from the new gp-3481-f mould, in the instance you do use release if you plan on painting the sg2000 you would consider a wax release like the no59 or macwax(wax based), if you don't plan on painting the sg2000 then the macsil (silicone based) release can be used
Macsil is a great spray on release agent..I use it for silicone and latex moulds..it also prolongs the mould life especially when using resin and concrete
What happens to the mixing tubs?
If you mix the product thoroughly, you can peel the left over material out of the tub, and reuse them until such times the tubs are no longer usable.
No need for a degassing chamber?
Degassing will generally give better results but you can absolutely use the gp-3481-f without a vacuum chamber but a little extra care is needed to try and prevent air bubbles on the surface, on this wax surface the silicone generally moves quite freely however on porous surfaces such as dried plaster, dried clay, concrete etc. you might consider using a soft bristle brush to brush the silicone over the surface and check for any air bubbles before pouring the rest.