Exactly what I was looking for, thank you! Try building a bike for the first time and don't want to break the bank. I wish there is more detailed explanation about each step. Especially installing the cables and connecting with the shifter and break, for beginners like me.
Thanks for sharing this! It took me an additional 12-16 hours to make the video, as I am not sponsored, nor have I any profits from RUclips, I am unable to invest more of my time to create a complete tutorial. Hope this gives a good overall feel and procedure for your build. Good luck!
Aerospace engineer and mechanic here. Just wanted to let you know, you are gripping the torque wrench sub-optimally. You're supposed to grip it from the end, where the grip itself is. Placing your hand on the middle part of the wrench may vary the torque output depending on the style of wrench.
You are right @Ricqu and this is good point! When component like stem is screwed with couple of bolts, my rule of thumb is to always hold the torque wrench in same way to get similar torque, as thankfully bikes are not space rockets ;-), and let's be honest 5, 6 or 7 Nm even on carbon bike will be just fine. Not to mention the wrench and its calibration state. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, and I am curious, what you are working on ;-)
I feel like there are so many small super advanced little tips that I can't even understand. It would be so nice to have some commentary or explanation!
Since I have to change the inner and outer cables every year because I ride all year round, internally routed cables are just too fiddly for me...but to each his own...
Its eay much cheaper buying logos and branded bikes wuth same frames.. get a good frame and build with good components... patience is key. Am gonna do the same with shimano parts. Mechanical brakes.
Gran trabajo!!! hermosa bici Ojala!! todos los mecanicos trabajaran con ese cuidado!! de seguro esa bici debe tener una conduccion de lujo, y lo mas importante para gente Normal!!! Saludos
Great video. If you're still in pursuit of "cheap" bike frames, I wonder what you think about ELVES? I made lately one myself. (Also rim-brake based). Model was Falath Pro 2022. Bit more expensive than this frame, but still "within reasonable budget". Bonus was I could pick one of their paint schemes and colors. Build process was pretty much the same as you nicely show here, though the handle bar was completely closed, so the front brake wire came out along the stem, to be better aligned with the head tube. Drawbacks? Sure. Quite a struggle with head tube bearings alignment (frame inner space tiny bit too wide and duh - I'm still not sure how tight to squeeze the seat tube. Struggling to go beyond 6.5 NM, though they say to squeeze it with 8. Final result? Masterpiece for "pennies".
Thanks! I have not worked with Elves, but heard good opinions about it and it seems a class higher in terms of quality. For sure they provide better QA and paint job - which are major costs for producers, which reflects in final price. As for the seat tube, I always use carbon paste and start a bit lower than the factory suggestion so in this case 6-7 Nm should be all fine. If it do not slip, stay with that. Basically, if the seatpost without tightening does not stay in place, but is sliding down it most probably means that either the seat tube hole is too wide or the seatpost tube is too narrow. This forces you to use higher torque which can damage the frame, but it is fault of producer who did not provide correct tolerance. Instead of overtighting, better solution is to fix it with additional wrapping of the seatpost or ideally trying to replace the frameset/seatpost using warranty.
@@custombikefactory Yes, I used dedicated paste as well. The trick is also to add sand paper on the sides. The "testing phase" got shifted into the near future (I hope). I had s**y car collision on my other bike in July and that thing drags on (never mind). Thanks for the advice and good luck to you in future builds. 👍
As a former user, I'd advise against the Vision Team 30 wheelset. Sure, they have a cool factor of their own, they're inexpensive and ride well, but they're fragile - the rim can dent easily, sometimes beyond repair -, they're heavy, they're noisy, mounting tyres can be a nightmare, and they'll look untidy as soon as the anodized braking surface begins to wear out. And you can't buy them separately, although this is akin to stating "the food's terrible and the portions are too small". There are better options for entry level aluminium wheelsets.
Thanks for a honest review. Sometimes the components which end up on the bike are because of a great price or personal decision of the rider - in this case both reasons were the reason for these wheels ;-).
Nice build. I've seen another video of this bike and they complained about the placement of the hole where the front derailleur cable comes out. How sharp of bend it is. Did you find the same issue?
Thanks. To be honest I did not face any issues with this element of the frame and did not have any problems with guiding the cable - in my opinion this bend was pretty typical. Also did not noticed any negative impact after full assembly. I was more skeptical to the aluminium end-cap element that was used for the rear break cable exit - it could be machined batter, as it was really tricky to assemble it without any play (probably over time it can require adjusting) - or maybe the hole in the carbon was too big in the frame I got...
Someone call Hambini. That BB install looked off. The cranks only made a couple revolutions when you spin them. Definitely ream the cups or install a Hambini BB to free up the spin
Standard Shimano BB will never spin freely as it uses heavy duty, double sealed bearings on thick grease. For the record, even Hambini himself says that crank "spin tests" are not a good indication of BB/crank quality. If rider is not a pro or have no issues with frame BB execution, (or is not extreme engineering enthusiast), there is little sense to invest in Hambini product (which are one of the best on the market).
We all like to have a sporty look on photos but ride with relaxed mode just like you wrote. This is pre fitting setup and I had just a few requests from the rider. He indeed dropped the seatpost ;-)
Good job - Exactly the same kind of projects I built! May I start filming these as well. Specially the details and technical understanding show the difference against "builders" only bolting together. My main builts are Restomods, where new technic gets into old frames - #savetherimbrake #steelisreal ! There you need to improvise.
Hello! nice build, this bike! Classic look & mechanical shifting, things I like. One side question, if I may? What kind of watch you're wearing in the video, please...? Thanks & keep up the good work! Tomas
Great to know thanks. From my extensive geeking on the topic, including specialized forums and what not, SP cycles seems to make quality stuff. Haven't tried them myself.
Bardzo podobają mi się filmy na Waszym kanale. Dziękuję bardzo za Wasz content. Chciałbym zapytać, czy zajmujecie się składaniem rowerów na zamówienie? Czy mogę również poprosić o listę komponentów, aby móc złożyć taki sam rower samodzielnie? Również mieszkam w Polsce. Dziękuję raz jeszcze.
Bardzo mi miło, że podobają Ci się moje filmy. Jest możliwość zbudowania przeze mnie roweru na zamówienie z opcją nagrania materiału. W razie zainteresowania napisz bezpośrednio na e-mail - jest w zakładce o kanale. Jeśli potrzebujesz listy komponentów do samodzielnej budowy, też napisz na maila z informacją o który rower chodzi.
The bike was built for a 183cm man, sizing is 56 (normally I would advise 54, but the tube dimensions of this frame are bit smaller) which was just right for the rider. Good luck from Poland
@@boschselo5596 This is always individual thing, but in case of this frame, I think it will be good choice together with 100mm stem and short reach (modern) handlebar. There are however a lot of variables that should be considered and it is not possible to provide a solid recommendation based on youtube comment ;-)
This is ceramic, high quality grease, that has additional anti creak and water repellent properties. I used it because the quality of the BB (you pay for what you get) was not ideal and it was not a perfect hole - actually bit to loose so it is important to seal any space where water can penetrate. This would end app in creaking and hopefully it will fix this frame issue.
Nice looking build. Any suggestions on how to consider parts for a build? I find the bottom bracket, bar size, disc brakes, and stem length intimidating. The group set would probably be 105. I am 6'1
I'm 189cm and I usually ride 58cm bikes, often called XL or L. I'd start with the frame and check what type of bb it needs, what the cable routing looks like and what type of brake mounts it has, like direct mount rim brakes or disc brake mounts etc. Crank length should be 175 at your hight and I'd also go for around 100mm of stem length and choose you handlebars as wide as your shoulders are prob. around 42-44cm but not too wide
Thanks! In carbon assembly I typically use Shimano antiseize as it is actually a better and safe montage paste and for BB I used ceramic anti creak grease because in this frame it was made bit to loose.
Nice vid. That masking tape thing you did on the hoop / were you eyeballing the rhythm of the rotation when you had it on the stand, then putting the masking tape opposite of what you perceived to be the heaviest part of the hoop?
Thank you Dave. Yes, this is called wheel balancing (static balancing to be precise as there is also dynamic balancing), this is one of the way to do it - the heaviest part of the wheel is pulled down by the gravity so the opposing side is the place to put additional weight to make it even. The same is done to a car wheels when you change the tires, just calculated by computer.
@@custombikefactory thx man! Learned three great things from this vid - tape the smooth latex tube stem, clean the alloy burrs in the headset rings so internal routing isn’t compromised, and this! Highly appreciated! I like the pace and editing also. Very chill.
Thank you. It is not mine, but the owner is very happy (he use it for training and amateur racing) and already did a wheel set upgrade. So far there is no issue with the frameset, no BB creaks or seatpost issues.
@@custombikefactory thanks for answering! wow they look much wider on camera. also didnt know of rim brakes with such tire clearance! especially available brand new. do you know of any other ? most are 28 only.
@@FedericoHazama nowadays, almost all new road bikes with disc breaks allow up to 30 or even 32mm, it is a trend. On one of my videos you can check how I customized an older rim break road bike to fit 32mm tires.
Świetny sposób i pomysł na wyważenie koła. Jakoś nigdy się nad tym nie zastanawiałem, a to takie logiczne :) Uważasz że np w rowerze MTB również warto to sprawdzić? Wydaje mi się że to głównie na szosie jest istotne, gdzie prędkość i równa powierzchnia bardziej są odczuwalne względem doznań nie wyważonych kół?
Dzięki! W MTB większego sensu to nie ma, zresztą z uwagi na system tubless i mleczko nie jest to taka oczywista sprawa jak na szytce/dętce. W MTB liczy się przyspieszenie i przyczepność, sprinty są dużo mniej istotne, ale grubość opony i amortyzacja niwelują efekt więc nie zawracałym sobie głowy.
Generalnie wyważenie koła jest bardzo ważne - im więkza średnica i prędkośc obrotowa tym bardziej. Rzeczywiście fajna metoda właśnie się zastanawiałem jak to "ugryźć". Oczywiście przy mleczku nie bardzo to ma sens ale ja nawet w MTB uzywam dętek.
how would you install the saddle if it has no pressure relief like the one that you installed? And how is the bike holding up? I am also planning to buy from SPCycles
I'm Japanese and I'm very interested in this manufacturer's frames. I don't see it very often in Japan, but is it famous in your country? Also, I am concerned about quality and reputation. Please answer.
This is not really a well known brand or frame here. Also the producer changes the models a lot. It is one of the cheapest carbon frames that you can get from China so be aware, that it cannot be perfect. The biggest drawback of this frame is poor BB quality - in my case, pressfit was too loose and not a perfect circle. The paint job is also moderate quality and the weight could be better for a rim brake version - but from the other side frame feels strong and safe to ride. In all - you get what you pay for (maybe a little more than you pay for). Hope this helps you - but bear in mind that I only had chance to work with 2 frames of this producer.
This really depends on a loooot of stuff, very hard to tell, there is also quite some additional work needed to be done apart of pure technical assembly. A skilled mechanic with a good workshop will do it in approx 3-6 hours, so multiply it by a hourly rate and you have some idea of the cost. Often such service might be done as a bonus when you buy parts etc.
In case of small tubes such as this, even better solution is to put tape on the place which is cut - spraying water makes a mess and you would need to repeat it several times to make it work. For occasional carbon cutting in my opinion wearing a mask is better - and than it is easy to suck the dry carbon dust.
I am not the owner, but I can say it is safe and no issues so far has been reported. No creaks from BB, no issues with cables, headset required tensioning, but it is normal. So far so good.
Good evening, I have a Twitter R5 pro, and it is very solid, maximum load 150kg. Many carbon experts say that Chinese frames break quickly because the carbon is poorly processed. Is there any truth in their statements?
I am not the top expert on this matter, but having experience with quite a few Chinese carbon parts, I can say they are pretty solid and safe. From the other hand, for sure there are also crappy ones, but if you do not go for the cheapest price, I would say they should be fine. Mostly top brands order pieces from same factories but with higher QC standards.
@@custombikefactory Thanks so much for your reply, Twitter is a brand with 20 years of experience on the market..I think it's a pretty good and safe brand..
@@custombikefactory Of course, I trust the Chinese, they have the necessary technology to make a beautiful bike, their goal is not to compete with the big brands, but to satisfy the needs of amateurs who don't want to spend unjustified prices for a top bike.
I have to agree, however this is personal take - many people like black and stealth look. Personally I would also prefer a shiny color. The reason for black here is that it is cheaper for factory to paint it. Faster factory process - cheaper price.
I do not track the market so my best advice is to get the best frame that makes sense and you can afford ;-). I would omit cheapest and most expensive models.
Ogólnie OK, choć są niedoskonałości i w tym budżecie cudów nie będzie. Otwór na support jest chyba najsłabszym elementem (trochę luźny i nie jest idealnie okrągły), ale póki co wszystko działa, nic nie hałasuje. Niedopracowana jest wylotka do przerzutki tylnej, trzeba sobie ją poprawić i do hamulca tylnego (model pod tradycyjne szczeki), malowanie przeciętne, ale poza tym rama sprawia wrażenie mocnej i nie bałbym się na tym jeździć. Trzeba pamiętać, przy takich ramach, że kupujesz kota w worku, choć uczciwie muszę przyznać, że obsługa posprzedażowa bardzo się poprawia i często zawstydza zachodnie marki więc jakaś szansa na gwarancje jest. powodzenia z projektem!
Because the rims have diffrient design and shape, I ususale make them from various metal elements. You can also use fishing weights for this purpose. Just remember that it cannot have sharp edges and be as flat as possible.
It is not mine, but the owner is using it for daily trainings and amator racing for almost 2 years now, and reports no issues. The only problem that required fixing was an aluminium endcap from which braking cable exits toward rear break. Its construction does not have enough contact surface with the frame, which results in bending and it partially comes out - this is however only aesthetic problem. In all I think for its price it is worth recommendation.
Co do tylnej przelotki ja ją całkowicie zmodyfikowałem i pancerz przechodzi przez nią na wylot, biegi chodzą lepiej niż kiedyś. Czy na pewno anti seize to najlepszy wybór do sterów? Folie preferuje kleić na mokro wychodzi dużo lepiej. Ładny rower. Pzdr
Dzięki za merytoryczny komentarz. Przelotke zrobiłem w taki sposób, żeby końcowy kawałek pancerza był jednak osobno przez co można go łatwo wymienić gdyby się uszkodził bez potrzeby wybebeszania roweru. Co do smaru to antisize to tak naprawde smar montażowy z dodatkową odpornością na ściskanie i wysokie temperatury, nie zawiera litu więc jest bezpieczny dla karbonu, producent podaje że jest też bezpieczny dla gumy i ma właściwości zapobiegające korozji galwanicznej (karbon-metal). Od wielu lat go stosuje i świetnie wypiera też wodę więc myślę że do sterów świetnie się nada. Ten smar ma też moim zdaniem świetny stosunek cena jakość. Daj znać co sam stosujesz na stery? No i z folią to pełna zgoda. Kiedy zdarza mi się oklejać folią całą ramę robie to właśnie w taki sposób, tutaj przyklajałem jedynie gruby kawałek ochronny przed łańcuchem. Ramy w takim satynowym macie są trudne do oklejania i często ostateczny rezultat nie prezentuje się najlepiej. pozdrawiam serdecznie!
@@custombikefactory jako pastę montażowa używam motorex white grease, fajny gęsty ewentualnie park toola ppl1. Do łożysk motorex 2000. Wszystkie wymienione są bezpieczne dla karbonu.
Not sure if I understod you correctly, but if you mean a website link to buy the frame - than I cannot, as I got it from a customer and do not know the source.
A new chain is not greased. It is covered with anti rust substance for storage reason only. This substance is very sticky and attracts dirt, which ruins the chain.
I built onto the same frame .... literally the same bike build ... it is wonderful..... did the frame shop name start with a T ? Also I had to get a different c shape thing (the default is black and sits on the top headset bearing) for the headset as it had some play and after that it was solid. Overall really happy, how is yours going ?
@@FreddeeLewis This is my customers frame and parts and I did not purchace it so I do not know from what seller exactly is it nor I can tell how the bike rides because I do not own it. However I think it should perform very well. I did not experience any play with the headset - only the issue with sharp edges that I modified to have smoother surface for better cable management - documented in the video. Thank you for sharing your experience with the frame!
Is 1:02 a normal practice when building road bikes? I just thought that it was so smart because my chain has fallen off before while riding and it damaged the chain stay tube paint What material is that and where can I buy it?
It is definitely not a common practice ;-). I used a thick, thermal resistant, transparent tape. It is commonly used on cars so you can look for it in detailing shops and it comes in a lot of colors too. Choose the thickest one to protect such spots.
Because it was 100% tailored for owner requirements and needs and also was much cheaper ;-). I have nothing against a factory made bike (as long as it is assembled correctly).
Well, as far as I am concerned, I think it is safe to say that you pay for what you get. If a brand wants to keep quality they wont be able to sell a frameset under 500-600 USD. So if you are buying for as low as that do expect less quality - for example not ideal BB hole, poor painting, many voids in the carbon layout or other issues, some of them are not big deal, but others can be a pain to properly build or do maintenance of the bike in the longer run. If a brand won't sell cheap, it is an indicator they put more effort and a good quality should be expected.
I don't think that internal routing through headset with rim brakes is for normal people lol. So much bends and twists for cables + a bit difficult headset service)) And that front cable to front brake with rest cables go internal, just wtf )))
Haha, fair point and love your comment ;-). Price-wise this frame is on same level as well known brands aluminum products (though quality is a different topic) so in this sense it is affordable for a serious bike enthusiast. Thanks for your comment!
@@custombikefactory 😁✌✌✌ I do really love watching build bike videos, and my dream bike is an aero roadbike with alloy frame. I watch bike repair and restoration videos as well. I'm just frustrated with the fact how bikes can be very expensive.
Majority of the carbon parts comes indeed from China/Taiwan. There are however some carbon factories in other countries and not only small manufactures but also major brands.
![[#2024MAMA] G-DRAGON - 무제(Untitled, 2014)+POWER+HOME SWEET HOME+뱅뱅뱅+FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ox29z5Nf1Uk/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for doing that kind of video for "normal people"
Thank you Mickael, such comments really motivates me to keep working on such videos ;-)
I think he was being sarcastic my friend
No I am not, thanks for making build video for normal people that can't afford to put 3K on a bike
Yes, this is dream build of the people, with that 'groupset of people'
Exactly what I was looking for, thank you! Try building a bike for the first time and don't want to break the bank. I wish there is more detailed explanation about each step. Especially installing the cables and connecting with the shifter and break, for beginners like me.
Thanks for sharing this! It took me an additional 12-16 hours to make the video, as I am not sponsored, nor have I any profits from RUclips, I am unable to invest more of my time to create a complete tutorial. Hope this gives a good overall feel and procedure for your build. Good luck!
Nice build and attention to details. These small things probably makes this bike ride better than many expensive top-end bikes 👍
Thank you Jan, I really appreciate it! Indeed, small things makes a difference ;-)
been looking for this kind of builds because most build videos promotes the di2 system. kudos man! 💚
The helicopter tape around the BB area is a great idea!!
that's pleasant to see a passionate person living his passion nomatter his budget !
Thanks!! ;-)
Aerospace engineer and mechanic here. Just wanted to let you know, you are gripping the torque wrench sub-optimally. You're supposed to grip it from the end, where the grip itself is. Placing your hand on the middle part of the wrench may vary the torque output depending on the style of wrench.
You are right @Ricqu and this is good point! When component like stem is screwed with couple of bolts, my rule of thumb is to always hold the torque wrench in same way to get similar torque, as thankfully bikes are not space rockets ;-), and let's be honest 5, 6 or 7 Nm even on carbon bike will be just fine. Not to mention the wrench and its calibration state. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, and I am curious, what you are working on ;-)
Great video. You show the detail bits that other build videos gloss over. Like the wheel balancing as well.
Thank you!
Just watching this. Gotta say I really like your saw guide
Haha ;-) - thanks mate!
Definitely helping me out with my next build.
Happy to hear it and thanks for sharing!
Ah happy to see there’s still room for normal people
This really is an incredible build, very satisfying to watch
Thank you ;-)
I feel like there are so many small super advanced little tips that I can't even understand. It would be so nice to have some commentary or explanation!
Un Formidable Ensamblaje. Gracias saludos Alfredo desde Montevideo Uruguay.
Gracias Alfredo por tus amables palabras, ¡realmente lo aprecio!
Nice to see rim break bigger
Since I have to change the inner and outer cables every year because I ride all year round, internally routed cables are just too fiddly for me...but to each his own...
Its eay much cheaper buying logos and branded bikes wuth same frames.. get a good frame and build with good components... patience is key. Am gonna do the same with shimano parts. Mechanical brakes.
Gran trabajo!!! hermosa bici Ojala!! todos los mecanicos trabajaran con ese cuidado!! de seguro esa bici debe tener una conduccion de lujo, y lo mas importante para gente Normal!!! Saludos
Thank you very much and really appreciate your comment!
Nice build 👌
Rim brakes for ever 😊
#savetherimbreak ;-)))
You built such a beautiful bike. Thanks fpr sharing! Great video too. Wanna have one too! :)
Thank you and good luck with having one ;-)
Thank you for the awesome video. Would it be possible to share the comprehensive list of parts?
Thanks! Glad you liked it. I can share it, just drop me an email - you will find it under about tab. Cheers!
Cool you have the same carbon paste as me :D
perfect, nice editing. what stickers are used for balancing
Lets hope normal people can still have chance to buy bikes in 2024
Yeap, let's hope so!
Thank you so much for this video!!! Looking to build this exact bike.
Thanks for the comment and good luck with your build!
Really nice work. Doing the same right now and learned a lot from you. Thank you!
I really appreciate it and happy it was helpful!
made that look easy! nice job
Never thought of using one of those on a stearer
Great video. If you're still in pursuit of "cheap" bike frames, I wonder what you think about ELVES? I made lately one myself. (Also rim-brake based). Model was Falath Pro 2022. Bit more expensive than this frame, but still "within reasonable budget". Bonus was I could pick one of their paint schemes and colors. Build process was pretty much the same as you nicely show here, though the handle bar was completely closed, so the front brake wire came out along the stem, to be better aligned with the head tube. Drawbacks? Sure. Quite a struggle with head tube bearings alignment (frame inner space tiny bit too wide and duh - I'm still not sure how tight to squeeze the seat tube. Struggling to go beyond 6.5 NM, though they say to squeeze it with 8.
Final result? Masterpiece for "pennies".
Thanks! I have not worked with Elves, but heard good opinions about it and it seems a class higher in terms of quality. For sure they provide better QA and paint job - which are major costs for producers, which reflects in final price.
As for the seat tube, I always use carbon paste and start a bit lower than the factory suggestion so in this case 6-7 Nm should be all fine. If it do not slip, stay with that. Basically, if the seatpost without tightening does not stay in place, but is sliding down it most probably means that either the seat tube hole is too wide or the seatpost tube is too narrow. This forces you to use higher torque which can damage the frame, but it is fault of producer who did not provide correct tolerance. Instead of overtighting, better solution is to fix it with additional wrapping of the seatpost or ideally trying to replace the frameset/seatpost using warranty.
@@custombikefactory Yes, I used dedicated paste as well. The trick is also to add sand paper on the sides. The "testing phase" got shifted into the near future (I hope). I had s**y car collision on my other bike in July and that thing drags on (never mind).
Thanks for the advice and good luck to you in future builds. 👍
@@madyogi6164 Speedy recovery!!
@@custombikefactory :-) Thanks!
Show de bola! Quero montar uma dessa mas com freio a disco. Congrats and kudos from Brazil. 👏👏💛💛💚💚
Gracias y suerte con el proyecto!
Beautiful 🎉
As a former user, I'd advise against the Vision Team 30 wheelset. Sure, they have a cool factor of their own, they're inexpensive and ride well, but they're fragile - the rim can dent easily, sometimes beyond repair -, they're heavy, they're noisy, mounting tyres can be a nightmare, and they'll look untidy as soon as the anodized braking surface begins to wear out. And you can't buy them separately, although this is akin to stating "the food's terrible and the portions are too small". There are better options for entry level aluminium wheelsets.
Thanks for a honest review. Sometimes the components which end up on the bike are because of a great price or personal decision of the rider - in this case both reasons were the reason for these wheels ;-).
First time I have ever seen anybody going through the trouble of balancing a bicycle wheel.
nerdy ;-)
Nice build
Thank you ;-)
You don’t need to use all that protective tape if you just install a chain guide on your derailleur
Nice build. I've seen another video of this bike and they complained about the placement of the hole where the front derailleur cable comes out. How sharp of bend it is. Did you find the same issue?
Thanks. To be honest I did not face any issues with this element of the frame and did not have any problems with guiding the cable - in my opinion this bend was pretty typical. Also did not noticed any negative impact after full assembly. I was more skeptical to the aluminium end-cap element that was used for the rear break cable exit - it could be machined batter, as it was really tricky to assemble it without any play (probably over time it can require adjusting) - or maybe the hole in the carbon was too big in the frame I got...
Like the idea
Someone call Hambini. That BB install looked off. The cranks only made a couple revolutions when you spin them. Definitely ream the cups or install a Hambini BB to free up the spin
Standard Shimano BB will never spin freely as it uses heavy duty, double sealed bearings on thick grease. For the record, even Hambini himself says that crank "spin tests" are not a good indication of BB/crank quality. If rider is not a pro or have no issues with frame BB execution, (or is not extreme engineering enthusiast), there is little sense to invest in Hambini product (which are one of the best on the market).
The seat to handlbar drop is huge not for most "normal folk" most need a more relaxed geometry. Something more like an endurance bike.
We all like to have a sporty look on photos but ride with relaxed mode just like you wrote. This is pre fitting setup and I had just a few requests from the rider. He indeed dropped the seatpost ;-)
Good job - Exactly the same kind of projects I built! May I start filming these as well. Specially the details and technical understanding show the difference against "builders" only bolting together. My main builts are Restomods, where new technic gets into old frames - #savetherimbrake #steelisreal ! There you need to improvise.
Thanks! I would love to watch your work, please share if you would create any such content.
Great work! Video and bike are both excellent.
What kind of pads are you using unter the bar tape? 25:04
Thanks in advance
Thank you! These pads are leftovers from another gel bar tape - I always put some of it on top of hoods to make it more comfortable.
Hello! nice build, this bike! Classic look & mechanical shifting, things I like. One side question, if I may? What kind of watch you're wearing in the video, please...? Thanks & keep up the good work! Tomas
Thank you Tomas! The watch just like the bike is 100% mechanical. It is Seiko 5 Sports ;-)
Very nice build. What does the owner say about how the bike rides? Is he happy?
Thank you! Yes, he is very happy about the bike and actually just managed to do his first race on it, no issues so far.
Great to know thanks. From my extensive geeking on the topic, including specialized forums and what not, SP cycles seems to make quality stuff. Haven't tried them myself.
Bardzo podobają mi się filmy na Waszym kanale. Dziękuję bardzo za Wasz content.
Chciałbym zapytać, czy zajmujecie się składaniem rowerów na zamówienie?
Czy mogę również poprosić o listę komponentów, aby móc złożyć taki sam rower samodzielnie?
Również mieszkam w Polsce.
Dziękuję raz jeszcze.
Bardzo mi miło, że podobają Ci się moje filmy. Jest możliwość zbudowania przeze mnie roweru na zamówienie z opcją nagrania materiału. W razie zainteresowania napisz bezpośrednio na e-mail - jest w zakładce o kanale. Jeśli potrzebujesz listy komponentów do samodzielnej budowy, też napisz na maila z informacją o który rower chodzi.
Please do the same video for the aero bike please 🙏
With pleasure, just send me such frameset ;-)
Thanks very much for this video
How tall are you and which frame size did you Take ?
Thanks from Germany
The bike was built for a 183cm man, sizing is 56 (normally I would advise 54, but the tube dimensions of this frame are bit smaller) which was just right for the rider. Good luck from Poland
@@custombikefactory i am 180 would size 56 fits me?
@@boschselo5596 This is always individual thing, but in case of this frame, I think it will be good choice together with 100mm stem and short reach (modern) handlebar. There are however a lot of variables that should be considered and it is not possible to provide a solid recommendation based on youtube comment ;-)
What is this white thing that you've used for bb installation? Some "activator" ? Grease?
This is ceramic, high quality grease, that has additional anti creak and water repellent properties. I used it because the quality of the BB (you pay for what you get) was not ideal and it was not a perfect hole - actually bit to loose so it is important to seal any space where water can penetrate. This would end app in creaking and hopefully it will fix this frame issue.
Nice looking build. Any suggestions on how to consider parts for a build? I find the bottom bracket, bar size, disc brakes, and stem length intimidating. The group set would probably be 105.
I am 6'1
I'm 189cm and I usually ride 58cm bikes, often called XL or L. I'd start with the frame and check what type of bb it needs, what the cable routing looks like and what type of brake mounts it has, like direct mount rim brakes or disc brake mounts etc. Crank length should be 175 at your hight and I'd also go for around 100mm of stem length and choose you handlebars as wide as your shoulders are prob. around 42-44cm but not too wide
@@j.k.b5014 Thanks.
Great video! What lube did you use on the headset and bottom bracket? Anti seize paste?
Thanks! In carbon assembly I typically use Shimano antiseize as it is actually a better and safe montage paste and for BB I used ceramic anti creak grease because in this frame it was made bit to loose.
Nice vid. That masking tape thing you did on the hoop / were you eyeballing the rhythm of the rotation when you had it on the stand, then putting the masking tape opposite of what you perceived to be the heaviest part of the hoop?
Thank you Dave. Yes, this is called wheel balancing (static balancing to be precise as there is also dynamic balancing), this is one of the way to do it - the heaviest part of the wheel is pulled down by the gravity so the opposing side is the place to put additional weight to make it even. The same is done to a car wheels when you change the tires, just calculated by computer.
@@custombikefactory thx man! Learned three great things from this vid - tape the smooth latex tube stem, clean the alloy burrs in the headset rings so internal routing isn’t compromised, and this! Highly appreciated! I like the pace and editing also. Very chill.
I am very, very happy to hear this! Thank you for sharing this ;-)
Wth where was this vid when i built my alieExpres bike. I used BXT framset. Link on your framset please. Ty man✌️
I got it from a customer so I cannot share any link, hope your build want all good!
Nice bike 😊 how was the quality of the frameset? And how does it ride?
Thank you. It is not mine, but the owner is very happy (he use it for training and amateur racing) and already did a wheel set upgrade. So far there is no issue with the frameset, no BB creaks or seatpost issues.
great build, very detailed. are those tires 32mm?
Thanks, these are 25mm, but on the wide rim, they were 26.5mm. Frame can handle up to 32.
@@custombikefactory thanks for answering! wow they look much wider on camera. also didnt know of rim brakes with such tire clearance! especially available brand new. do you know of any other ? most are 28 only.
@@FedericoHazama nowadays, almost all new road bikes with disc breaks allow up to 30 or even 32mm, it is a trend. On one of my videos you can check how I customized an older rim break road bike to fit 32mm tires.
but what if I am built diferent?
Świetny sposób i pomysł na wyważenie koła. Jakoś nigdy się nad tym nie zastanawiałem, a to takie logiczne :) Uważasz że np w rowerze MTB również warto to sprawdzić? Wydaje mi się że to głównie na szosie jest istotne, gdzie prędkość i równa powierzchnia bardziej są odczuwalne względem doznań nie wyważonych kół?
Dzięki! W MTB większego sensu to nie ma, zresztą z uwagi na system tubless i mleczko nie jest to taka oczywista sprawa jak na szytce/dętce. W MTB liczy się przyspieszenie i przyczepność, sprinty są dużo mniej istotne, ale grubość opony i amortyzacja niwelują efekt więc nie zawracałym sobie głowy.
Generalnie wyważenie koła jest bardzo ważne - im więkza średnica i prędkośc obrotowa tym bardziej. Rzeczywiście fajna metoda właśnie się zastanawiałem jak to "ugryźć".
Oczywiście przy mleczku nie bardzo to ma sens ale ja nawet w MTB uzywam dętek.
how would you install the saddle if it has no pressure relief like the one that you installed? And how is the bike holding up? I am also planning to buy from SPCycles
Either you would use a narrow hex key or replace the hex bolt with a flat one
I'm Japanese and I'm very interested in this manufacturer's frames. I don't see it very often in Japan, but is it famous in your country? Also, I am concerned about quality and reputation. Please answer.
This is not really a well known brand or frame here. Also the producer changes the models a lot. It is one of the cheapest carbon frames that you can get from China so be aware, that it cannot be perfect. The biggest drawback of this frame is poor BB quality - in my case, pressfit was too loose and not a perfect circle. The paint job is also moderate quality and the weight could be better for a rim brake version - but from the other side frame feels strong and safe to ride. In all - you get what you pay for (maybe a little more than you pay for). Hope this helps you - but bear in mind that I only had chance to work with 2 frames of this producer.
I wonder how much does it costs to assemble a bike like that that comes in a box.
This really depends on a loooot of stuff, very hard to tell, there is also quite some additional work needed to be done apart of pure technical assembly. A skilled mechanic with a good workshop will do it in approx 3-6 hours, so multiply it by a hourly rate and you have some idea of the cost. Often such service might be done as a bonus when you buy parts etc.
Подскажите, чем смазывали посадочное место под каретку pres fit? Что это за белый состав?
Because the BB hole was not ideal, I used carbon neutral ceramic grease that repels water and reduces potential creaks.
when cutting the carbon, should one not spray a little bit of water onto it, so you do not inhale that stuff?
In case of small tubes such as this, even better solution is to put tape on the place which is cut - spraying water makes a mess and you would need to repeat it several times to make it work. For occasional carbon cutting in my opinion wearing a mask is better - and than it is easy to suck the dry carbon dust.
@@custombikefactory good to know :)
Hi there, is your frame holding out well until now. Have you been riding your bike thoroughly enough to judge if it is reliable ? Thank you
I am not the owner, but I can say it is safe and no issues so far has been reported. No creaks from BB, no issues with cables, headset required tensioning, but it is normal. So far so good.
I would like to upgrade my bike for internal routing - do you know where to buy all necessary cocpit components for it?
You will find all the parts on Chinese portals, but read closely if the set will support your frame (diameters of steerer and frame holes).
Good evening, I have a Twitter R5 pro, and it is very solid, maximum load 150kg.
Many carbon experts say that Chinese frames break quickly because the carbon is poorly processed. Is there any truth in their statements?
I am not the top expert on this matter, but having experience with quite a few Chinese carbon parts, I can say they are pretty solid and safe. From the other hand, for sure there are also crappy ones, but if you do not go for the cheapest price, I would say they should be fine. Mostly top brands order pieces from same factories but with higher QC standards.
@@custombikefactory Thanks so much for your reply, Twitter is a brand with 20 years of experience on the market..I think it's a pretty good and safe brand..
@@pqulcojocaru2690 They would not be around for that long if their product would be crap
@@custombikefactory Of course, I trust the Chinese, they have the necessary technology to make a beautiful bike, their goal is not to compete with the big brands, but to satisfy the needs of amateurs who don't want to spend unjustified prices for a top bike.
Hello
How much have you spend for it? And how it works after one year?
Thanks for answer.
Check my answers in other comments. In short, no major issues and it was bought by my customer.
Nice bike but it would really look much better if the frame was painted in something else than plain black.
I have to agree, however this is personal take - many people like black and stealth look. Personally I would also prefer a shiny color. The reason for black here is that it is cheaper for factory to paint it. Faster factory process - cheaper price.
@@custombikefactory non branded frame = less likely to get stolen too, can be a perk.
@@heksogen4788Indeed ;-)
Which frame would you recommend buying in 2024 for such build?
I do not track the market so my best advice is to get the best frame that makes sense and you can afford ;-). I would omit cheapest and most expensive models.
that packaging at 0:16 reminds me of how mine came in too HAHA
What do you apply on the screws for the headset for example?
On bolts blue locktite, on rest assembly/antisieze
Does anyone know what he is doing with the tape at 14:18? Some kind of way to true the wheel?
I am balancing a wheel so it rotates better and do not vibrate. Same thing you do when you replace tires on your car.
Jak z jakością takiej ramy? Mam skompletowana cala grupe grx 800 i szukam dawcy lub wlasnie chinskiego carbonu.. i nie wiem na co sie zdecydować
Ogólnie OK, choć są niedoskonałości i w tym budżecie cudów nie będzie. Otwór na support jest chyba najsłabszym elementem (trochę luźny i nie jest idealnie okrągły), ale póki co wszystko działa, nic nie hałasuje. Niedopracowana jest wylotka do przerzutki tylnej, trzeba sobie ją poprawić i do hamulca tylnego (model pod tradycyjne szczeki), malowanie przeciętne, ale poza tym rama sprawia wrażenie mocnej i nie bałbym się na tym jeździć. Trzeba pamiętać, przy takich ramach, że kupujesz kota w worku, choć uczciwie muszę przyznać, że obsługa posprzedażowa bardzo się poprawia i często zawstydza zachodnie marki więc jakaś szansa na gwarancje jest. powodzenia z projektem!
Hi,
what kind of weigth do you used to balance the wheel? Cheers
Because the rims have diffrient design and shape, I ususale make them from various metal elements. You can also use fishing weights for this purpose. Just remember that it cannot have sharp edges and be as flat as possible.
This is the frame i was looking for online for reviews, how is it after a year?
It is not mine, but the owner is using it for daily trainings and amator racing for almost 2 years now, and reports no issues. The only problem that required fixing was an aluminium endcap from which braking cable exits toward rear break. Its construction does not have enough contact surface with the frame, which results in bending and it partially comes out - this is however only aesthetic problem. In all I think for its price it is worth recommendation.
Co do tylnej przelotki ja ją całkowicie zmodyfikowałem i pancerz przechodzi przez nią na wylot, biegi chodzą lepiej niż kiedyś.
Czy na pewno anti seize to najlepszy wybór do sterów?
Folie preferuje kleić na mokro wychodzi dużo lepiej.
Ładny rower.
Pzdr
Dzięki za merytoryczny komentarz.
Przelotke zrobiłem w taki sposób, żeby końcowy kawałek pancerza był jednak osobno przez co można go łatwo wymienić gdyby się uszkodził bez potrzeby wybebeszania roweru.
Co do smaru to antisize to tak naprawde smar montażowy z dodatkową odpornością na ściskanie i wysokie temperatury, nie zawiera litu więc jest bezpieczny dla karbonu, producent podaje że jest też bezpieczny dla gumy i ma właściwości zapobiegające korozji galwanicznej (karbon-metal). Od wielu lat go stosuje i świetnie wypiera też wodę więc myślę że do sterów świetnie się nada. Ten smar ma też moim zdaniem świetny stosunek cena jakość. Daj znać co sam stosujesz na stery?
No i z folią to pełna zgoda. Kiedy zdarza mi się oklejać folią całą ramę robie to właśnie w taki sposób, tutaj przyklajałem jedynie gruby kawałek ochronny przed łańcuchem. Ramy w takim satynowym macie są trudne do oklejania i często ostateczny rezultat nie prezentuje się najlepiej.
pozdrawiam serdecznie!
@@custombikefactory jako pastę montażowa używam motorex white grease, fajny gęsty ewentualnie park toola ppl1. Do łożysk motorex 2000. Wszystkie wymienione są bezpieczne dla karbonu.
the most difficult was installing the steering cable😢
Could be worse, but indeed it requires some patience ;-)
Can you post the link from the frame?
Not sure if I understod you correctly, but if you mean a website link to buy the frame - than I cannot, as I got it from a customer and do not know the source.
Whats your rationale for degreasing a brand new chain?
A new chain is not greased. It is covered with anti rust substance for storage reason only. This substance is very sticky and attracts dirt, which ruins the chain.
May I ask where you ordered the frame
It was bought by the owner (not me) on one of the most popular China based online markets
Links for buy frame?
I do not want to recommend any seller or source, but you can easily find it on the biggest and well known Chinese marketplace site ;-)
I built onto the same frame .... literally the same bike build ... it is wonderful..... did the frame shop name start with a T ? Also I had to get a different c shape thing (the default is black and sits on the top headset bearing) for the headset as it had some play and after that it was solid.
Overall really happy, how is yours going ?
@@FreddeeLewis This is my customers frame and parts and I did not purchace it so I do not know from what seller exactly is it nor I can tell how the bike rides because I do not own it. However I think it should perform very well. I did not experience any play with the headset - only the issue with sharp edges that I modified to have smoother surface for better cable management - documented in the video.
Thank you for sharing your experience with the frame!
Is 1:02 a normal practice when building road bikes? I just thought that it was so smart because my chain has fallen off before while riding and it damaged the chain stay tube paint
What material is that and where can I buy it?
It is definitely not a common practice ;-). I used a thick, thermal resistant, transparent tape. It is commonly used on cars so you can look for it in detailing shops and it comes in a lot of colors too. Choose the thickest one to protect such spots.
@@custombikefactory Oooh, I believe those are called PPFs? The ones that essentially self repair upon heat
7.9kg. Why not buying a 2000$ alu bike with same weight from brand?
Because it was 100% tailored for owner requirements and needs and also was much cheaper ;-). I have nothing against a factory made bike (as long as it is assembled correctly).
how much does this bike cost?
Please check the earlier comments
how your opinion about built quality of this frame? if compare to another chinese brand like trifox, ican, elves. thanks
Well, as far as I am concerned, I think it is safe to say that you pay for what you get. If a brand wants to keep quality they wont be able to sell a frameset under 500-600 USD. So if you are buying for as low as that do expect less quality - for example not ideal BB hole, poor painting, many voids in the carbon layout or other issues, some of them are not big deal, but others can be a pain to properly build or do maintenance of the bike in the longer run. If a brand won't sell cheap, it is an indicator they put more effort and a good quality should be expected.
what was the total cost?
It was some time ago, but something around 1,6k USD
I don't think that internal routing through headset with rim brakes is for normal people lol. So much bends and twists for cables + a bit difficult headset service))
And that front cable to front brake with rest cables go internal, just wtf )))
So far so good, no need for cable and headset service ;-)
wow, carbon frame bike are for normal people, to what kind of people do I belong then? lol
Haha, fair point and love your comment ;-). Price-wise this frame is on same level as well known brands aluminum products (though quality is a different topic) so in this sense it is affordable for a serious bike enthusiast. Thanks for your comment!
@@custombikefactory 😁✌✌✌
I do really love watching build bike videos, and my dream bike is an aero roadbike with alloy frame. I watch bike repair and restoration videos as well. I'm just frustrated with the fact how bikes can be very expensive.
@@efrenacabado1109 Me too my friend... hope to get my hands on some aero/TT bike some day tough ;-)
Glossy film at matte frame, wtf?
I think all carbon bikes are chinese
Majority of the carbon parts comes indeed from China/Taiwan. There are however some carbon factories in other countries and not only small manufactures but also major brands.
ew rim brake