Thank you so much for your time and efforts in Tinywhoop battery research! Tinywhoop batteries are so tiny that any small difference makes a huge impact.
Thank you Joshua! …..Long time subscriber❤……sometime before that very early livestream when you cut the wires too short🥰 ………As we’ve all have😎 In the EV car world, we call these pouch cells.
Nitro nectars also come with GNB27 connectors, which have objectively better performance than BT2.0. They're less popular since they're a little heavier and people have complained about quality issues
Yeah people are saying they get loose. Its true they will get looser over time but like the xt60 you can just make the connector a bit wider and it will be a snug fit again.
@@TheElectroHawk I've actually found that the gnb grips better in the plug than Bt does. Plus gnb connectors have positive and negative terminals marked on the plug so you don't have to look it up every time to make sure like you do with bt
I use gnb27 also and your right about the quality issues, I've had some connectors that are so loose their performance tanks really fast. Yet I also have batteries where the connector is incredibly tight and a pain to unplug, but they perform brilliantly.
to be clear, the problems apparently with the gnb27 were the first version 1 plugs, which are now obsolete everywhere online by now. The version 2 plugs are not plagued with the 'quality/loose' issues.. and if it were, you probably still could make the connector a bit wider and it would fit snug again as mentioned by someone else. For the record, there is a clear and big advantage of voltage/resistance/amperage over the BT2.0 plugs, particularly more of a difference with higher draw/wattage. the difference in weight is negligible, 0.2grams more only but much more efficient, even enough to be as a 2s plug on many batteries so keeps things easier in many regards. not quite xt30 good, but right in the middle and at a much lower weight than a xt30 connector.
Now we need a BT2.0 vs GNB27 shoot out. Not only should it include performance but cost and availability. What batteries, pigtails, connectors can you get. I would also like to see it go to 1s and 2s.
Mutefpv did one. Gnb27 is better than BT2.0 by a tiny margin but weighs 0.1g more (male+female). GNB27 can handle 2S almost as well as XT30 so it’s a great 2S connector, but for 1S it’s arguable. For something like racing and performance, I think GNB27 is more beneficial since you’re needing as much performance as possible, but if you fly more cruisey, then I feel like you’re carrying around 0.1g when you don’t really need more juice. Also BT2.0 batteries are more accessible than gnb27, especially the performance batteries like the ones tested by Joshua. Also, BT2.0 has more market share than GNB27 so people who already have BT2.0 don’t want to hassle and switch over. I’m new so I went directly with GNB27. I wish Joshua mentioned it, but he’s not really a whoop guy.
@@justainchoe6141 yeah I saw GNB27 and BT2.0 and choose GNB27 a while ago. It was easy to find GNB27 batteries and the BT2.0 had some early problems. I don't regret my choice but it would be nice if chargers like the whoopster came with GNB27.
I went gnb27 cause it's better. So if I put on 2" or some other higher current dines that need it. I now have charger adapter for it. So sticking with it.
I was struggling on that question few weeks ago, watched all the comparisons I could find... They are very close to each other. On one hand I'd prefer BT2 because it is right on a battery, not a pig tail... And there are very good devices like WhoopStor with BT2 on it. On the other hand, it turns out that GNB27 is just a lot easier and cheaper to buy, I'm buying mostly on Ali and GNB sells the batteries either with PH2 or GNB... Plus, while shopping for the Mobula 7 Walksnail, i realized that there is no BT2 option, but there is GNB27. I ended up with GNB27 + WhoopStor with adaptors... The Stor with double pigtails looks silly and clumsy comparing to ability to just stick BT2, but it is what it is... I have ordered raw BT2 connectors as well, just in case I decide to change something, and just by looking at them I can tell that the pins in it looks like have the same size anyway... The GNB connector is surprisingly tight, it is hard to plug and unplug. I wonder if BT2 is the same... because if it is, then without pigtail it will quickly break a package... If it is not, that could indicate looser connection in general... 💁♂ The physical difference between them is: the connector casing for BT2 looks more compact. GNB is wider but flat. Another interesting and important physical difference is on GNB the male part have a lengthwise cut (slit) on it to act as a spring... Female is plain cylinder. But for BT2 this is the other way around, female cylinder have a lengthwise slit, while male is kinda 'straight'...
But but but Bardwell, they aren't packs if it's only 1 cell! Nice to know the we bleeds test out same as nitro nectars. I have the Tattus as well and they feel exactly the same.
I bought some Tattu versions of the folded cells you spoke of here and wow, yeah, they're incredibly superior to the old style cells. Highly recommended. I can also confirm BT2.0 connectors make a huge difference and are worth changing to if you can justify the added weight.
BT2 is the way to go for sure. Could feel improved power delivery immediately on first flight after swapping to BT2. Too bad the manufactures don't make a deal with Beta FPV and standardize on bind and fly whoops. Great video BTW
I have used the Nitro Nectar ones, (bought 12), and honestly I like the Tattu R Line 300 the best. I can fly with heavy throttle and get well over 3 mins with 25,000 KV motors. The R Lines paired with the Vifly WhoopStor are perfection!
I started fpv/rc hobby with the tattu r-lines and when i can't source them I try other ones. I've been let down by every other battery. Not that I dont find good packs in the mix but for example I got 5 gnbs recently and 2 of 5 were duds. I can't agree with you more.
You're absolutely right about the connector. 12C discharges in 60/12 minutes. That's 5 minutes. Haha I've been using the CBA since before quadcopters existed. Keep up the good work.
I would also say: solder the motor wires. It's annoying as hell and it matters less than the battery plug but it does make a difference that is noticeable if you're pushing your whoops hard.
I have we bleed 450 mah and emax 450 mah (gnb27) and both of them hit my 3.3 low batt warning about 10 seconds before my 5 min timer goes off. And consistently too. But that's on an easy going flight with steady throttle. If I'm flying a little spicier then the emax only last like 3 min, but the we bleed will last like 4 min and has a little more punch
I'm really interested in small 2s batteries used in the 2" builds. This was a great review - I love test data. I am surprised no grammar cops caught the title yet though. Thank you for doing this work!
Great video joshuah. I am just now hearing about issues with proper battery connectors. It makes sense this can be an issue in some settups. You should do a video testing the Upgrade Energy cells.
The difference between PH2 and BR2.0 connectors will be even more significant with aging PH2 connectors because of their pin corrosion. And even more significant again if using PH2 connectors with foldet sheet pins instead of massive ones.
I think we can all agree it's time to phase out the ph2.0 connector for battery usage. It's fine for low voltage, low amp connections (such as inside of a radio) but not for the high draw situation of flying whoops. And with more people adding HD transmitters, LEDs and higher KV motors, the power requirements are only increasing, putting more strain on connectors never designed for this use case.
The webleedfpv 300mha batteries have been so good on my hdz mobula6. I bought 4 back in July and run them down to 2.8 every flight and they still perform just as well as the 4 new ones I just after over 6 months of use.
we've been flying with BT2.0 for a long time, we're re-soldering all the plugs(that were with cable) because the manufacturers are so stupid and grab crappy plugs. and so much different. we also needed plugs that can handle 12-15A(race), which was not a problem with the BT2.0. the BT2.0 are better is quite logical, they have the largest pin cross-section, the others are all smaller. and there fore clearly a smaller cross-section means more resistance. thanks Joshua for your test
I bought a couple of the NitroNectar 300mah GNB27 batteries, but to be honest, I was underwhelmed. They don't fit in the Meteor65 (nor the Meteor65 Pro) battery holder and flight times were significantly shortly due to the extra circa 2.6g weight vs the Eachine 250mah batteries I was using previously. I would be keen to try a 250-270mah version, but for the 300mah versions they just seem to be too heavy for 65mm, and for 75mm I would use a 450mah 1s or 300mah 2s.
The short battery lead on some whoops is annoying. I tell myself that since I'm gonna change it out from PH to BT anyway, I might as well just make it the desired length. But for a Meteor that already has BT, it's just annoying.
Thanks! Great info as always! I'm a GNB27 connection guy. Respectfully, if you could compare the GNB27 and the BT 2.0, that would probably be more "apples-to-apples" comparison, as they are the "next generation" connectors most are considering these days. I won't even mess with the old-style PHs after killing a Flywoo AIO by connecting it in reverse-polarity.
I did a similar test last week comparing old, used (possibly abused) 1S WeBleedFPV 300mah BT2.0 lipos and a brand new set using a WMR CBA IV. I was surprised that the discharge profile for the new batteries were below a few of the old lipos, a internal resistance test using the CBA also shows this but I didn't test all of the lipos since the discharge curve initial drop in voltage essentially shows this. The new set flys awesome (good power, long flight times) but the old lipos that have similar or better discharge profiles don't fly as well (not bad, but I wouldn't choose them for a race). There definitely were some garbage old lipos that I tested and flew like garbage. I set the CBA to 4 amp draw and stopped the test at 3.2 volts. Lipos were charged to 4.35 volts with a Vifly Whoopstor. Hoping to find a robust method for ranking 1S lipos but IR and discharge profile do not seem to indicate anything useful other than finding packs that are completely garbage. I am flying a Mob6HDzero (meteor frame, triblade, 96khz bluebird, BF 4.3.2) so I am power hungry. Can't seem to post links or pictures, wrote this post multiple times and it seems to get deleted. Would love to share my data. Check out my post on Tiny Whoop - Micro FPV Pilots of the World for screenshots of the test.
Comments containing links are automatically moderated to prevent spam and scams. Sorry for the inconvenience but it's necessary. I agree that characterizing battery real-world performance based on bench tests is pretty difficult. But real-world testing is not repeatable like bench tests. So it's difficult to find the correct balance.
@@JoshuaBardwell . I just purchased the extended software for the CBA which allows the user to specify a load profile that can somewhat mimics real-world performance. Played around with it a bit last night, looks promising but had a hard time deciding on what my profile should look like. Gonna check the DVR and see what my profile looks like for a hard run and try to replicate (I know the current sensor is not accurate at all but it's a start).
They are better because the ratio of anode to cathode is more optimized for power delivery in the folded cells.the cathode is continuous on a rolled cell where on a folded cell cathode is segmented just all around better design for higher amp draw better cell life don't puff to easy low IR
Hope to fond a store that will ship to the Netherlands. And if they do, won’t charge $15,- or more for shipping☹️ But i will try to swap the PH2 connectors of some batteries i have, to BT2. See if that helps
One important thing was not mentioned that how thick wires should be use with BT2.0 connector. It's very important because someone might replace the connector to BT2.0 and leave stock wires. As far as I know you need at least 22AWG wires.
Going to the webleedfpv site their 450mAh 1s batteries come in a pigtail and a direct plug bt2.0 variety. Which one is the better option? Or are the 300mAh batteries the ones to go for?
Quad power leads to connector are often, if not sadly usually, too short to allow the longer cells to mate with them located in balance centrally. So its extension lead (YUK) or replace lead, or buy pigtail cells. I now do the latter.
I don't think that's a comparison that makes sense. The 450 will be used more on 75mm builds and will be too heavy for 65mm builds. The 300 is more for 65mm builds.
why don't we see folded lipos for our 5" quads ? is there a maximum size limit with diminishing returns ? or is it limited by manufacturing process unable to go up a certain size ? The market for bigger lipos in our hobby seems soooooo much bigger than for lipo whoops.
After you get above like 500 or 700 mAh, the cells are large enough that traditional cell types perform well. The folded cell is specifically to compensate for the very small cell size.
I believe this test indicates that all the "square cell" packs are made by the same manufacturer. I would assume the Tattu and the WeBleed would perform identically, just like the NBD and WeBleed did.
You are going to learn something today. GNB 27 > BG 2.0 > PH 2.0. The performance gain from a BG 2.0 over a PH2.0, is the same as a GNB27 over the BG 2.0 connector.
Nice tests. But you could have easily quantified "much better flight time" by showing the time on the graph. I like how you posted the spreadsheet on the previous test. Going by the visuals on this video, it appears that the ph2 dropped off at around 1wh, and the bt2 dropped off about a 16th of a wh later. So,.... 1/16 watt-hours divided by 16 watts x 3600 seconds gives you an increase of 14 seconds flight time going to bt2. Or the easier estimate is just to look at the graph and see it's ~15% more capacity or runtime at load. I'm still on the fence about converting the connector. The math works out, but when I did a test conversion, I didn't notice a difference in flight times. May have just flown more aggressive on that flight,.. or maybe it was colder. So is the juice worth the squeeze?,... hmm,...
@@JoshuaBardwell Thanks. I've kinda come to see that. Just takes a bit more thinking. Since the watts are constant, then then you can cancel that out of watt-hours.
@@JoshuaBardwell Well. I'm all in. Used your link and ordered two BT2 sets from WeBleed, and a few other compatibility items. I really like my 75mm w/O3 build, and I can see my fleet becoming more 2s, with my next build of a 2s O3 toothpick probably benefiting from BT2.0.
@@JoshuaBardwell Just wanted to report that I'm getting at least 30 seconds more on the WeBleed with BT2.0 vs my GNB's on PH2.0. Was also impressed with the shipping. NY to Louisiana from Friday night order time to mailbox on Monday. I have my warnings set pretty low for the GNB's because of the sag, but with these, when the warnings go off, you better be close, because they'll drop to nothing in the next 10 seconds. Will probably up my warnings a bit.
Hey Joshua, are most of the screws on your getfpv build m3? And do you know what size screw it is for the digital camera setup? It had two but apparently one of them backed out when flying and landing.
I wonder how the old Ps4 controller battery stacks up against this. Lip1522 1000mah/3.7whr 3.65v that weigh like nothing. Same ph plug on the end of them too..
Go for the VIFLY WhoopStor (Joshua has a video on it).There are a few other dedicated-1S chargers that do BT2.0 but most are cheap crap. Plus, the WhoopStor will let you storage charge your batteries to keep your cells in good condition when you aren't using them. Alternatively, if you already have a multi-cell charger, you can make your own series-charging cable or get a ready-made series-charging board, like the VIFLY Whoop 1s Series Charging Board.
There is also a note that when you discharge these little 1s batteries to the drop off cliff they WILL die out a lot sooner. So please don't fly them 'till they literally drop out the sky and you'll have them last a lot longer! 👽
1:06 You say "I tested these previously and found that they performed so much better than the previous style we're not even going to test that in this video that's just established" bun in the video you refer to ( ruclips.net/video/B8D0hOwTviU/видео.html ) does not have any BetaFPV batteries... So, there's still actually no direct comparison between BetaFPV and NewBeeDrone Nitro Nectar.
Hey Josh could you use one of these to extend your range.2023 WiFi Extender Signal Booster Long Range up to 9995sq.ft and 52+ Devices, Internet Booster for Home, Wireless Internet Repeater and Signal Amplifier, 5 Modes,1-Tap Setup, WAN/LAN Port. Can not post unless I disengage my VPN.
I have the Tattu 300mah with BT2.0, just amazing fun!
I love the end when you tell us how much you love this. Your passion is my favorite part of your videos, thank you!
Thank god you use a good microphone and I can hear you clearly, lots of channels do not and it makes them nearly impossible to listen to.
Thank you so much for your time and efforts in Tinywhoop battery research! Tinywhoop batteries are so tiny that any small difference makes a huge impact.
Thank you Joshua! …..Long time subscriber❤……sometime before that very early livestream when you cut the wires too short🥰 ………As we’ve all have😎
In the EV car world, we call these pouch cells.
I haven't flown them in years but I appreciate the time and research you put in.
Now I want to fly whoops again.
I just converted to bt2.0 this week. Even on the pillow cell battery the differece was massive.
Nitro nectars also come with GNB27 connectors, which have objectively better performance than BT2.0. They're less popular since they're a little heavier and people have complained about quality issues
Yeah people are saying they get loose. Its true they will get looser over time but like the xt60 you can just make the connector a bit wider and it will be a snug fit again.
@@TheElectroHawk I've actually found that the gnb grips better in the plug than Bt does. Plus gnb connectors have positive and negative terminals marked on the plug so you don't have to look it up every time to make sure like you do with bt
I use gnb27 also and your right about the quality issues, I've had some connectors that are so loose their performance tanks really fast. Yet I also have batteries where the connector is incredibly tight and a pain to unplug, but they perform brilliantly.
to be clear, the problems apparently with the gnb27 were the first version 1 plugs, which are now obsolete everywhere online by now. The version 2 plugs are not plagued with the 'quality/loose' issues.. and if it were, you probably still could make the connector a bit wider and it would fit snug again as mentioned by someone else. For the record, there is a clear and big advantage of voltage/resistance/amperage over the BT2.0 plugs, particularly more of a difference with higher draw/wattage. the difference in weight is negligible, 0.2grams more only but much more efficient, even enough to be as a 2s plug on many batteries so keeps things easier in many regards. not quite xt30 good, but right in the middle and at a much lower weight than a xt30 connector.
I run gnb27
Now we need a BT2.0 vs GNB27 shoot out. Not only should it include performance but cost and availability. What batteries, pigtails, connectors can you get. I would also like to see it go to 1s and 2s.
Mutefpv did one. Gnb27 is better than BT2.0 by a tiny margin but weighs 0.1g more (male+female). GNB27 can handle 2S almost as well as XT30 so it’s a great 2S connector, but for 1S it’s arguable. For something like racing and performance, I think GNB27 is more beneficial since you’re needing as much performance as possible, but if you fly more cruisey, then I feel like you’re carrying around 0.1g when you don’t really need more juice. Also BT2.0 batteries are more accessible than gnb27, especially the performance batteries like the ones tested by Joshua. Also, BT2.0 has more market share than GNB27 so people who already have BT2.0 don’t want to hassle and switch over.
I’m new so I went directly with GNB27. I wish Joshua mentioned it, but he’s not really a whoop guy.
@@justainchoe6141 yeah I saw GNB27 and BT2.0 and choose GNB27 a while ago. It was easy to find GNB27 batteries and the BT2.0 had some early problems. I don't regret my choice but it would be nice if chargers like the whoopster came with GNB27.
I went gnb27 cause it's better. So if I put on 2" or some other higher current dines that need it. I now have charger adapter for it. So sticking with it.
+1
I was struggling on that question few weeks ago, watched all the comparisons I could find... They are very close to each other. On one hand I'd prefer BT2 because it is right on a battery, not a pig tail... And there are very good devices like WhoopStor with BT2 on it. On the other hand, it turns out that GNB27 is just a lot easier and cheaper to buy, I'm buying mostly on Ali and GNB sells the batteries either with PH2 or GNB... Plus, while shopping for the Mobula 7 Walksnail, i realized that there is no BT2 option, but there is GNB27. I ended up with GNB27 + WhoopStor with adaptors... The Stor with double pigtails looks silly and clumsy comparing to ability to just stick BT2, but it is what it is... I have ordered raw BT2 connectors as well, just in case I decide to change something, and just by looking at them I can tell that the pins in it looks like have the same size anyway... The GNB connector is surprisingly tight, it is hard to plug and unplug. I wonder if BT2 is the same... because if it is, then without pigtail it will quickly break a package... If it is not, that could indicate looser connection in general... 💁♂
The physical difference between them is: the connector casing for BT2 looks more compact. GNB is wider but flat. Another interesting and important physical difference is on GNB the male part have a lengthwise cut (slit) on it to act as a spring... Female is plain cylinder. But for BT2 this is the other way around, female cylinder have a lengthwise slit, while male is kinda 'straight'...
How about the difference between BT2.0 and GNB27?
But but but Bardwell, they aren't packs if it's only 1 cell! Nice to know the we bleeds test out same as nitro nectars. I have the Tattus as well and they feel exactly the same.
I bought some Tattu versions of the folded cells you spoke of here and wow, yeah, they're incredibly superior to the old style cells. Highly recommended. I can also confirm BT2.0 connectors make a huge difference and are worth changing to if you can justify the added weight.
BT2 is the way to go for sure. Could feel improved power delivery immediately on first flight after swapping to BT2. Too bad the manufactures don't make a deal with Beta FPV and standardize on bind and fly whoops. Great video BTW
I have used the Nitro Nectar ones, (bought 12), and honestly I like the Tattu R Line 300 the best. I can fly with heavy throttle and get well over 3 mins with 25,000 KV motors. The R Lines paired with the Vifly WhoopStor are perfection!
I started fpv/rc hobby with the tattu r-lines and when i can't source them I try other ones. I've been let down by every other battery. Not that I dont find good packs in the mix but for example I got 5 gnbs recently and 2 of 5 were duds. I can't agree with you more.
I haven’t tried these fancy square cell batteries because I have so many cheap ones, but I can attest that switching to BT 2.0 is a game changer.
Excellent testing, Joshua! Thanks a bunch! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
i really like the tattu 270 packs. i find that they perform similarly to nitro nectars but also cost less.
hey it’s clay
Tattus perform as good I have plenty flight time on all of these packs and see no difference
@@smiththemyth Hey its Arfa
You're absolutely right about the connector. 12C discharges in 60/12 minutes. That's 5 minutes. Haha I've been using the CBA since before quadcopters existed. Keep up the good work.
I would also say: solder the motor wires. It's annoying as hell and it matters less than the battery plug but it does make a difference that is noticeable if you're pushing your whoops hard.
I have we bleed 450 mah and emax 450 mah (gnb27) and both of them hit my 3.3 low batt warning about 10 seconds before my 5 min timer goes off. And consistently too. But that's on an easy going flight with steady throttle. If I'm flying a little spicier then the emax only last like 3 min, but the we bleed will last like 4 min and has a little more punch
Aaah oke! That's why my tattu 270mah perform so well on my mobeetle6! Thanks Joshua!
Feeling the pressure... Good job
I'm really interested in small 2s batteries used in the 2" builds. This was a great review - I love test data. I am surprised no grammar cops caught the title yet though. Thank you for doing this work!
Great video joshuah. I am just now hearing about issues with proper battery connectors. It makes sense this can be an issue in some settups. You should do a video testing the Upgrade Energy cells.
The difference between PH2 and BR2.0 connectors will be even more significant with aging PH2 connectors because of their pin corrosion. And even more significant again if using PH2 connectors with foldet sheet pins instead of massive ones.
thank you joshua!!!! great scientist, pilot and fpv pro
Did you use a solid pin PH2.0 connector or a rolled/hollow pin PH2.0 connector for these tests? Apparently that can make a big difference as well.
Love nitro nectar Batts. Had a few brushed and brushless whoops ND they give most punch and flight time.. newbee drone is top 5 all day
Great job Joshua... very good info... :)
I think we can all agree it's time to phase out the ph2.0 connector for battery usage. It's fine for low voltage, low amp connections (such as inside of a radio) but not for the high draw situation of flying whoops. And with more people adding HD transmitters, LEDs and higher KV motors, the power requirements are only increasing, putting more strain on connectors never designed for this use case.
Couldn't agree more.
Totally obsessed with the subject, excellent.
Joshoua thank you for your great work!
The webleedfpv 300mha batteries have been so good on my hdz mobula6. I bought 4 back in July and run them down to 2.8 every flight and they still perform just as well as the 4 new ones I just after over 6 months of use.
i love these batteries so much! i got 3 sets of them in bt2!
we've been flying with BT2.0 for a long time, we're re-soldering all the plugs(that were with cable) because the manufacturers are so stupid and grab crappy plugs. and so much different.
we also needed plugs that can handle 12-15A(race), which was not a problem with the BT2.0.
the BT2.0 are better is quite logical, they have the largest pin cross-section, the others are all smaller. and there fore clearly a smaller cross-section means more resistance.
thanks Joshua for your test
I bought a couple of the NitroNectar 300mah GNB27 batteries, but to be honest, I was underwhelmed.
They don't fit in the Meteor65 (nor the Meteor65 Pro) battery holder and flight times were significantly shortly due to the extra circa 2.6g weight vs the Eachine 250mah batteries I was using previously.
I would be keen to try a 250-270mah version, but for the 300mah versions they just seem to be too heavy for 65mm, and for 75mm I would use a 450mah 1s or 300mah 2s.
The short battery lead on some whoops is annoying. I tell myself that since I'm gonna change it out from PH to BT anyway, I might as well just make it the desired length. But for a Meteor that already has BT, it's just annoying.
NBD does sell Nitro nectar 300mah with the gnb27 connectors
Thanks! Great info as always! I'm a GNB27 connection guy. Respectfully, if you could compare the GNB27 and the BT 2.0, that would probably be more "apples-to-apples" comparison, as they are the "next generation" connectors most are considering these days. I won't even mess with the old-style PHs after killing a Flywoo AIO by connecting it in reverse-polarity.
Thank you ...very much 🇿🇦 very informative... As always.
Thank you
If only I had seen this before buying 12 new PH2.0batteries :D
Please I'd love to see Tattu Rline v5 vs CNHL black 6s before outdoor season starts
Awesome job!
Id love to see some tests on tattufly batteries, I love mine!
Can you do some tests with the gnb27 connector? I believe newbeedrone sells the nitro nectar with them
I did a similar test last week comparing old, used (possibly abused) 1S WeBleedFPV 300mah BT2.0 lipos and a brand new set using a WMR CBA IV. I was surprised that the discharge profile for the new batteries were below a few of the old lipos, a internal resistance test using the CBA also shows this but I didn't test all of the lipos since the discharge curve initial drop in voltage essentially shows this. The new set flys awesome (good power, long flight times) but the old lipos that have similar or better discharge profiles don't fly as well (not bad, but I wouldn't choose them for a race). There definitely were some garbage old lipos that I tested and flew like garbage.
I set the CBA to 4 amp draw and stopped the test at 3.2 volts. Lipos were charged to 4.35 volts with a Vifly Whoopstor.
Hoping to find a robust method for ranking 1S lipos but IR and discharge profile do not seem to indicate anything useful other than finding packs that are completely garbage. I am flying a Mob6HDzero (meteor frame, triblade, 96khz bluebird, BF 4.3.2) so I am power hungry.
Can't seem to post links or pictures, wrote this post multiple times and it seems to get deleted. Would love to share my data. Check out my post on Tiny Whoop - Micro FPV Pilots of the World for screenshots of the test.
Comments containing links are automatically moderated to prevent spam and scams. Sorry for the inconvenience but it's necessary.
I agree that characterizing battery real-world performance based on bench tests is pretty difficult. But real-world testing is not repeatable like bench tests. So it's difficult to find the correct balance.
@@JoshuaBardwell . I just purchased the extended software for the CBA which allows the user to specify a load profile that can somewhat mimics real-world performance. Played around with it a bit last night, looks promising but had a hard time deciding on what my profile should look like. Gonna check the DVR and see what my profile looks like for a hard run and try to replicate (I know the current sensor is not accurate at all but it's a start).
I had that same idea but the problem is you only get 1 hz update rates so emulating real battery load is pretty impossible.
This is the sort of testing and video I became a patreon for !! Thank you Joshua :)
Would like to see how the dogcom whoop batteries do against the nitro nectar.
Where can you get a bt2.0 square cell in Germany?
:( I replaced all my PH2 connectors with GNB27. Agreed that PH2 was a limiting factor. now to find those cells with GNB instead or BT
They are better because the ratio of anode to cathode is more optimized for power delivery in the folded cells.the cathode is continuous on a rolled cell where on a folded cell cathode is segmented just all around better design for higher amp draw better cell life don't puff to easy low IR
Hope to fond a store that will ship to the Netherlands. And if they do, won’t charge $15,- or more for shipping☹️
But i will try to swap the PH2 connectors of some batteries i have, to BT2. See if that helps
One important thing was not mentioned that how thick wires should be use with BT2.0 connector. It's very important because someone might replace the connector to BT2.0 and leave stock wires. As far as I know you need at least 22AWG wires.
I feel like the bt2.0 wear out rather quickly. Could you test how many plug ins one could reasonably expect before the connection becomes to loose.
would love to see some weight to performance testing between bt2.0 and xt30
How does the Betafpv Battery perform in comparison?
Have you tested the CNHL 400 mah 1s batteries? i bought about 8 and have been fantastic so far
I dont see the difference between folded design an normal. Have you an picture of the difference, should i buy them?
Going to the webleedfpv site their 450mAh 1s batteries come in a pigtail and a direct plug bt2.0 variety. Which one is the better option? Or are the 300mAh batteries the ones to go for?
It shouldn't matter, just get whichever one works for the length of your battery lead
Quad power leads to connector are often, if not sadly usually, too short to allow the longer cells to mate with them located in balance centrally. So its extension lead (YUK) or replace lead, or buy pigtail cells. I now do the latter.
You are a true G for putting in the work keep it up
So what exactly is the physical difference between the connectors? Is it just a higher gauge wire?
The pins are larger and have more mating surface, resulting in lower resistance.
What about performance between these square 300mAh batteries and the bigger 450mAh pillow batteries
I don't think that's a comparison that makes sense. The 450 will be used more on 75mm builds and will be too heavy for 65mm builds. The 300 is more for 65mm builds.
@@JoshuaBardwell ahh, I see, fair point
Looking for a 3s version. Having trouble finding it.
why don't we see folded lipos for our 5" quads ? is there a maximum size limit with diminishing returns ? or is it limited by manufacturing process unable to go up a certain size ? The market for bigger lipos in our hobby seems soooooo much bigger than for lipo whoops.
After you get above like 500 or 700 mAh, the cells are large enough that traditional cell types perform well. The folded cell is specifically to compensate for the very small cell size.
We need a test on the Tattu BT2.0 1s and the webleed BT2.0 battery
I believe this test indicates that all the "square cell" packs are made by the same manufacturer. I would assume the Tattu and the WeBleed would perform identically, just like the NBD and WeBleed did.
Your the man!!
You are going to learn something today. GNB 27 > BG 2.0 > PH 2.0. The performance gain from a BG 2.0 over a PH2.0, is the same as a GNB27 over the BG 2.0 connector.
whats the best whoop board right now? for elrs obviously ;)
Now all I need is a supplier to actually provide folded cell 1s BT2.0 batteries in the UK. They cost me a small fortune to get them imported...
Hi. Does bad soldering the bt2.0 connector affect performance too?
get out of my head, just pulled these out of the mailbox along with a pack of BT2.0 replacement connectors and then this vid pops up😁
BT 2.0 vs GNB27???
Nice tests. But you could have easily quantified "much better flight time" by showing the time on the graph. I like how you posted the spreadsheet on the previous test. Going by the visuals on this video, it appears that the ph2 dropped off at around 1wh, and the bt2 dropped off about a 16th of a wh later. So,.... 1/16 watt-hours divided by 16 watts x 3600 seconds gives you an increase of 14 seconds flight time going to bt2. Or the easier estimate is just to look at the graph and see it's ~15% more capacity or runtime at load. I'm still on the fence about converting the connector. The math works out, but when I did a test conversion, I didn't notice a difference in flight times. May have just flown more aggressive on that flight,.. or maybe it was colder. So is the juice worth the squeeze?,... hmm,...
The graph x axis is time. It samples once per second. So although the axis is labeled as Wh, it also represents time.
@@JoshuaBardwell Thanks. I've kinda come to see that. Just takes a bit more thinking. Since the watts are constant, then then you can cancel that out of watt-hours.
@@JoshuaBardwell Well. I'm all in. Used your link and ordered two BT2 sets from WeBleed, and a few other compatibility items. I really like my 75mm w/O3 build, and I can see my fleet becoming more 2s, with my next build of a 2s O3 toothpick probably benefiting from BT2.0.
@@JoshuaBardwell Just wanted to report that I'm getting at least 30 seconds more on the WeBleed with BT2.0 vs my GNB's on PH2.0. Was also impressed with the shipping. NY to Louisiana from Friday night order time to mailbox on Monday.
I have my warnings set pretty low for the GNB's because of the sag, but with these, when the warnings go off, you better be close, because they'll drop to nothing in the next 10 seconds. Will probably up my warnings a bit.
Hey Joshua, are most of the screws on your getfpv build m3? And do you know what size screw it is for the digital camera setup? It had two but apparently one of them backed out when flying and landing.
How does this compare to a 1S 720 mAh GNB 100C A30 battery?
I wonder how the old Ps4 controller battery stacks up against this. Lip1522 1000mah/3.7whr 3.65v that weigh like nothing. Same ph plug on the end of them too..
What is the biggest battery i could fit in a whoopfly16 RTF?
I have tinygo 4k. can I use different mAh batteries ? if so what the biggest mAh batteries and smallest mAh batteries ? I'm new to fpv tiny whoops
Needed this vid!
Any of these available in a 450mAh 1s variety for my Mod7?
These batteries still can be charged with same 1 cell battery charger ?
Yes they can.
You guys should check out the iflight full send 1s packs, there nuts, I think they are every bit as good as a nitro nectar running them back to back.
Recently I converted jumper t-lite from opentx to edgetx and after I did it my radio's sticks don't work. Do you know the way to fix it?
Off topic............but........... Have you properly calibrated the controller since change?
@@TheBadRaven thanks it worked out! And sry for off topic
I was literally searching this topic 2 hours ago
What BT 2.0 chargers are there ?
Go for the VIFLY WhoopStor (Joshua has a video on it).There are a few other dedicated-1S chargers that do BT2.0 but most are cheap crap. Plus, the WhoopStor will let you storage charge your batteries to keep your cells in good condition when you aren't using them.
Alternatively, if you already have a multi-cell charger, you can make your own series-charging cable or get a ready-made series-charging board, like the VIFLY Whoop 1s Series Charging Board.
Can anyone recommend a solid brand/source of BT2 connectors? I was in a forum recently and guys were saying the quality varied pretty widely.
For 1s 300 I only use the tinywhoop bt2.0
GMB 27
There is also a note that when you discharge these little 1s batteries to the drop off cliff they WILL die out a lot sooner. So please don't fly them 'till they literally drop out the sky and you'll have them last a lot longer! 👽
I got newbeedrone nitro nectars with gnb27, that’s even better than bt2.0. You should try those too.
Love the battery nerd out!
🔥🔥🔥
1:06 You say "I tested these previously and found that they performed so much better than the previous style we're not even going to test that in this video that's just established" bun in the video you refer to ( ruclips.net/video/B8D0hOwTviU/видео.html ) does not have any BetaFPV batteries... So, there's still actually no direct comparison between BetaFPV and NewBeeDrone Nitro Nectar.
👍🏻👍🏻
The name is pretty savage lol
26dollar for a 1S whoop battery..... It's nuts
Noooooo. That's for a 4 pack.
👍👍😃
Ordering batteries from anywhere other than Amazon is too much of a pain. Shipping is always expensive or very slow and usually both.
This is useless to me without the data from the older style pack.
Yes and I linked to that in the cards at the end of the video 😁
@@JoshuaBardwell The Data is not compareable because you discharged the old cell with only 5a, or did i miss sth?
The old test confirms the superiority of the square cell. Although the test protocol was not identical, the result carries forward.
Hey Josh could you use one of these to extend your range.2023 WiFi Extender Signal Booster Long Range up to 9995sq.ft and 52+ Devices, Internet Booster for Home, Wireless Internet Repeater and Signal Amplifier, 5 Modes,1-Tap Setup, WAN/LAN Port. Can not post unless I disengage my VPN.