As a new P1 owner (C70 Mk2) this video is really helpful. I have plenty of the 'standard' tools for working on my cars and motorcycles over many years. Now I have a much better idea of what I need to add to help keep my Volvo in great condition.
Great video. I don't have number 10 but I'm about to pull an engine down so sounds like something I finally need. I agree with the whole list. For the scan tool nothing beats a VIDA/DICE unit. A couple of things I would add 1) create or make a stubby allen key for people with haldex so you can pull the filter off without having to pull the whole driveshaft out. 2) While you mentioned torx bits I'd specify the T50 torx as its required when pulling the gearbox out in at least the auto.
Another very good reason to torque wheel lugs is so that you can get them off again if you ever need to change a tire on the side of the road, I’ve taken off multiple wheels on different cars where the lugs were so tight I had to use an impact driver or a pipe over a breaker bar, and if any of those people had had a flat they would never have been able to get the wheel off with the provided lug wrench
A 90 degree angled flat screwdriver for reaching and opening the radiator drain valve; so you don’t have to remove a bunch of stuff to access it. I used one on mine last week and it worked perfectly. Saved me a ton of parts removal time.
Diesel owners need: D5, diesel filter socket (32mm) similar to oil filter socket) and D2 owners need 12v pump for bleeding the fuel system after filter change (hand priming pump works also if you have nerves of a cow).
Working on aircraft, 'Bondus' makes a great ball end hex set with poly carbonate handles in both metric and imperial. I like your small ratchet handle, completely forgot when in the USN Submarine service that was a common tool for exactly the reasons you stated. IPD in Portland, Oregon USA (Volvo Specialty Shop) sells oil filter sockets which BTW are lighter and shorter. They also sell numerous filter packs, gaskets sets and the like. Thank you for the tip on the SRS fault/alert (iCarsoft tool) reset tool.
Yipee! I got everything except 10. I've had 7 Volvos since and changed the timing belts on them... I never needed to lock the cams as I use the "markings transfer" method. You should add pulley puller on that list. 😁
Ok here are my suggestions. I would get 2 torque wrenches. 1 small (1/4 inch 6-30 nm) and one big (3/8 inch 20-200nm) for the heavier stuff like wheel nuts. I would get an extensive heavy impact (CR-MO) socket set. CrMo is rocksolid and won't break or slip easily on stuck screws or bolts like the cheap Cr-V do. You can even use it without impact gun of course . Not sure why you would get a obd2 scanner like Icarsoft Michael. What does it do that VIDA with Dice can't???
iCarSoft can be used anywhere without the need for cables, computers, and an outdated windows operating system. If you're hardcore into DIY mechanics at home, Vida/Dice is an absolute must. But for most people, the iCarSoft handheld will provide all the diagnostic information and fault resetting capabilities needed at a fraction of the cost with a lot less hassle. It's nice having a Volvo specific OBDII tool that conveniently fits in the glove box.
An 8mm socket, and wrench is a must. I never used 8mm ever as much in any other cars from Japanese cars, German cars, Italian cars or French cars. On a Volvos 8mm is what 10mm in any others. 🤣
Hello Michael, was considering get a Forge BOV, is this also known as the CBV? Also is there an easy way to access that area easily without lowering the subframe? This for the an AWD p1 s40 t5 m66
I have the Forge unit on my C30 and it has been great for 150k miles and still going strong. A blow off valve serves the same purpose as a compressor bypass valve and the terms and often cross referenced in the Volvo community. But a BOV suggests atmospheric venting, where a CBV redirects that air back to the intake. You'll get intake whooshing noises, but not that Fast and Furious blow off sound. That being said, a recirculation valve is ideal because the car accounts for that pressurized air returning to the system, not venting off. So if you do vent it off, you may temporarily run extra rich between gear changes. No reason to lower the subframe. Pulling the passenger side axle will help a bit with access. It's a tight fit, but it is possible. I have replaced quite a few of these over the years and only ever had to pull the axle when the bolts were extra seized.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Much appreciated mate on the help. Ive been trying to find a BOV that makes the STUSTU noise, any recommendations on companies that make them for us all while keeping the lines fairly similar?
@@UncleJuulian The Elevate/TurboSmart Dual Port is probably the closest you'll get to that from a noise perspective. I pretty much just call it an audible cosmetic upgrade.
![How to Replace the PCV Diaphragm on a Volvo T5 [Money Saving Way]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1O4r1ftgJaQ/mqdefault.jpg)
The 36mm socket you can find at most parts stores in the oil filter wrench section. It’s really short so perfect for the oil filter👍
As a new P1 owner (C70 Mk2) this video is really helpful. I have plenty of the 'standard' tools for working on my cars and motorcycles over many years. Now I have a much better idea of what I need to add to help keep my Volvo in great condition.
Hello Terry! How is your Volvo holding up?
Great video. I don't have number 10 but I'm about to pull an engine down so sounds like something I finally need. I agree with the whole list. For the scan tool nothing beats a VIDA/DICE unit.
A couple of things I would add
1) create or make a stubby allen key for people with haldex so you can pull the filter off without having to pull the whole driveshaft out.
2) While you mentioned torx bits I'd specify the T50 torx as its required when pulling the gearbox out in at least the auto.
instaBlaster
Another very good reason to torque wheel lugs is so that you can get them off again if you ever need to change a tire on the side of the road, I’ve taken off multiple wheels on different cars where the lugs were so tight I had to use an impact driver or a pipe over a breaker bar, and if any of those people had had a flat they would never have been able to get the wheel off with the provided lug wrench
Just bought my 2nd S40 and she's gonna get some serious attention. This vid has some good tips for updating my 35 year old tool collection.
A 90 degree angled flat screwdriver for reaching and opening the radiator drain valve; so you don’t have to remove a bunch of stuff to access it. I used one on mine last week and it worked perfectly. Saved me a ton of parts removal time.
Bearing tool is must, also i recommend to have cranksaft holding tool and brake piston tool.
Great suggestions.
Diesel owners need: D5, diesel filter socket (32mm) similar to oil filter socket) and D2 owners need 12v pump for bleeding the fuel system after filter change (hand priming pump works also if you have nerves of a cow).
Working on aircraft, 'Bondus' makes a great ball end hex set with poly carbonate handles in both metric and imperial. I like your small ratchet handle, completely forgot when in the USN Submarine service that was a common tool for exactly the reasons you stated. IPD in Portland, Oregon USA (Volvo Specialty Shop) sells oil filter sockets which BTW are lighter and shorter. They also sell numerous filter packs, gaskets sets and the like. Thank you for the tip on the SRS fault/alert (iCarsoft tool) reset tool.
Tool to add: plastic pry tool set for removing interior trim
Exactly
I have that exact same torque wrench. I love it because it’s not super long and it has a fairly large range
I like your realism about the torque wrench! #10, ha ha. A lot of my tool set cases have a "TOP" message taped i` place.
I don’t even torq wheels but I did take the time to torque head bolts
Yipee! I got everything except 10. I've had 7 Volvos since and changed the timing belts on them... I never needed to lock the cams as I use the "markings transfer" method. You should add pulley puller on that list. 😁
I created a small metal wedge that I use on Volvo engines in the starter mounting hole to lock the flywheel in place.
Ok here are my suggestions. I would get 2 torque wrenches. 1 small (1/4 inch 6-30 nm) and one big (3/8 inch 20-200nm) for the heavier stuff like wheel nuts. I would get an extensive heavy impact (CR-MO) socket set. CrMo is rocksolid and won't break or slip easily on stuck screws or bolts like the cheap Cr-V do. You can even use it without impact gun of course . Not sure why you would get a obd2 scanner like Icarsoft Michael. What does it do that VIDA with Dice can't???
iCarSoft can be used anywhere without the need for cables, computers, and an outdated windows operating system. If you're hardcore into DIY mechanics at home, Vida/Dice is an absolute must. But for most people, the iCarSoft handheld will provide all the diagnostic information and fault resetting capabilities needed at a fraction of the cost with a lot less hassle. It's nice having a Volvo specific OBDII tool that conveniently fits in the glove box.
An 8mm socket, and wrench is a must. I never used 8mm ever as much in any other cars from Japanese cars, German cars, Italian cars or French cars. On a Volvos 8mm is what 10mm in any others. 🤣
Your videos are great, you should buy a small mic so the voice is clearer!!
Why buy the small scan tool if you have the larger one?
Your locking tool set link is broken already! good ol fly by night tool companies these days....
Another tool: FM Modulator with BT :))
Good job Bro ,why change the facelift your p1 volvos ,facelift s40 v50 and c30 looks very good .,
Can the iCarsoft tool clear the code if I got a catless/highflow cat on my c30?
It'll clear the code, but it won't prevent the code from immediately coming back. You need to tune your car for downpipe modifications.
Hello Michael, was considering get a Forge BOV, is this also known as the CBV? Also is there an easy way to access that area easily without lowering the subframe? This for the an AWD p1 s40 t5 m66
I have the Forge unit on my C30 and it has been great for 150k miles and still going strong. A blow off valve serves the same purpose as a compressor bypass valve and the terms and often cross referenced in the Volvo community. But a BOV suggests atmospheric venting, where a CBV redirects that air back to the intake. You'll get intake whooshing noises, but not that Fast and Furious blow off sound. That being said, a recirculation valve is ideal because the car accounts for that pressurized air returning to the system, not venting off. So if you do vent it off, you may temporarily run extra rich between gear changes.
No reason to lower the subframe. Pulling the passenger side axle will help a bit with access. It's a tight fit, but it is possible. I have replaced quite a few of these over the years and only ever had to pull the axle when the bolts were extra seized.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Much appreciated mate on the help. Ive been trying to find a BOV that makes the STUSTU noise, any recommendations on companies that make them for us all while keeping the lines fairly similar?
@@UncleJuulian The Elevate/TurboSmart Dual Port is probably the closest you'll get to that from a noise perspective. I pretty much just call it an audible cosmetic upgrade.
Brains