Snapper Rear Engine Rider Drive Disc Adjustment - DIY OneForAll
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- I was having issues with my Snapper Rear Engine Rider pulling slowly and not pulling at all in certain gears. In some instances, It would not mount the smallest hill and required a "jerk" to get it moving.
In this video, I show how one can easily adjust the main metal drive disc to fix this issue. The first inclination of some (especially the dealers) would claim a transmission issue, but in this case, the rubber driven disc was a little worn and the drive disc just needed a slight adjustment to fix the problem.
It's also note-worthy that I did purchase the mower from a seller who had changed the original engine. It's my thinking also that the drive disc may not have been adjusted correctly when the new engine was installed. I hope this video helps if you are facing a similar problem.
You can help me continue to produce these videos and upgrade my equipment! Any donations are very much appreciated.
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My snapper was stopping when I would put it in 3rd and 4th gear and struggling to move on small inclines. I would have to put it in 1st gear to move. It has been like this for long time. I did what you showed in this video and now every gear works great and the front wheels come off the ground when I release the brakes because it has that much more power now so THANK YOU SOOO MUCH and keep going the great videos
That is great to hear. Cheers and all the best with your Snapper.
I didn't realize how simple this is. I'm going to be doing this later today when I get off work. Just got a snapper yesterday and thought it needed something, this is that something lol. Thank you for sharing, I appreciate it.
Subscribe for more tips and fixes videos. I know the dealership won't like this video but my goal is to keep money in the average owners' pockets, so we DIY!
Thanks for watching and subscribing and for joining me on the journey to 1000 subscribers. I have had lots of fun making these videos and am grateful to share them with you. If you have not yet subscribed, subscribe for free for more videos like this. ~DIY
Good job and thanks for posting. I bet you've saved your viewers a lot of headaches and expensive repair bills.
Thumbs up for sure...
Took me ages to find this and figure it out. Didn’t help that I first had to realize my “craftsman” mower was actually a relabeled snapper. Thanks so much!!!
Thank you. My snapper has treads on the bottom of the crank shaft. But you shown me that lowering the pully is the way to adjust the clutch. So thanks..
Thanks for watching. I wish you great success with your adjustments.
My Snapper is running like a mule after this small adjustment. If I had taken it to the dealer they would have eaten me alive in repair costs. It pays to DIY!
Old video but thank you so much my snapper starts will one pull but having problems like this Thank you for the video sooo helpful
Hey, really good video. I enjoyed the info. I'm about to go adjust my Snapper right now.
Most times those discs are frozen solid/rusted in place. You were very lucky to move it.Not everyones is that easily adjusted.Some people will have to remove the engine in order to gain access to freeing up the disk to make it slide.
Very true, my friend. I consider myself very blessed to have had it come off like it did without much effort.
Excuse me, could you please tell me if it is normal for the drive plate not to be perfectly flat but presenting some grooves at the level of second and third gear?.. is it wear? Should I change it or just lower it?
Try lowering it first.
I think this is just what I needed. thanks.
Just finished a new bottom crank seal and adjusted the drive disc and it runs and drives great. A note of caution to anyone doing bottom crank seal. I thought the seal on the engine was leaking, and it was a little. It was not leaking enough to get oil on the drive disc. The area by the drive wheel was leaking transmission fluid around the rubber boot over the axial. I finish the whole job and it got transmission fluid on rubber drive.
fix: Tighten band around the rubber clamped to the to differential and clean very carefully and then spray carb cleaner on the rubber and disc. That is all i had to do. could have saved a lot of time. Hope this helps someone out there.
+Patrick Wolbert
Great job, Patrick!
Experience has told me TWO ISSUES RELATED TO your video: 1) Too close to gearbox and you will have trouble installing new belt. 2) Looking at your grease leak deposits, shaft nut for clutch likely loose and key at risk; getting properly tightened MAY cure leak at seal without seal replace. Can be a real challenging bear if woodruff shears flush, and requires patience and special tools to remove old woodruff. I.E I SUSPECT THE GREASE LEAK IS THE REASON FOR THE CLUTCH SLIPPAGE. i WENT THRU two new DRIVEN DISK HUBS (that clutch bolts to) before I got shaft properly torqued to prevent coming loose again. GOOD LUCK.
What size wrench fits those Allen screws? I'd hate to tear mine apart only to find I don't have that size.
Yes I need to lower mine I've tried both metric and standard want a second opinion before I put torque on it
Not sure if you have a video on Mt specific issue but my mower won't climb a hill in 3rd,4th or 5th gear. Climbs perfect in 1st and 2nd. Replaced rubber disc, adjusted break/clutch. I'm at a loss. What would you suggest?
Get some brake cleaner on a rag and wipe entire surface of the drive shaft disc (shiny metal disc). Wipe till you remove all residue. You don’t need to tip mower on end just lay down with a flashlight and go for it.
Hold on tight
Guys (ladies and gentlemen). Thanks for the support. I am in the process of working on a new Snapper that I picked up off Craigslist. More on that soon. Stay tuned.
Very good video and informative. Only one I have seen that shows set screws.
mrleaps
Thank you for watching and commenting. I am happy that the video was useful. Cheers.
I am having a problem with the belt smoking from the back drive disc when in nuetral.. any info?
Just be careful with lowering the friction plate too low. I did and broke a $60 part plus is a PITA to replace.
Thanks for your video BTW!
Good job. I've replaced my engine and now I hav ed the ability to to electric start. What battery do you use?
I got just a cheap one from Walmart.
Hello I just bought used SR130 with 11.5 hp. Are the drive discs all the same size? Done valve adjustment on it and cleaned the carb. and it's running pretty well so far. Just need a belt and drive disc. Where is a good place to get parts? Wife doesn't understand why I'm always playing with these things! Thanks.
Based on what I have seen, they look pretty much the same. However, you always want to ensure that you are getting the exact manufacturer recommended parts for your mower. Here is a place that gives a good break down of the parts when you enter the model number of your Snapper mower:
www.partstree.com/parts/snapper/mowers-rear-engine-riding-lawn-mower/3011511be-snapper-30-rear-engine-rider-11-5-hp-series-11/drive-disc-assembly/
I also purchased parts from
www.sjmparts.com.
Yeah, I know how the wife thing goes :)
All the best with your Snapper.
+DIY OneForAll Clutches are different. Some have a brake lining, some do not. Check your dealers price. Most times they are no higher than Ebay.
Wondered myself. May be different sizes only takes 1/16 can make a big difference
Great video, helped me immensely, thanks very much.
Awesome! It's great to hear testimonials like yours.
The old type "hard" clutch can be replaced with the newer smooth clutch, there used to be a kit that had everything in it for this upgrade, not sure if it is still avaliable, I saw the kit in a old parts manual years ago.
+Numa Newbern what is the part number for this "previous type" clutch you speak off? I would rather do that then tinker around with a crank pulley setting but if I don't have a part number to order I cant order it and asking at the dealer just got blank stares at me from the kids behind the counter.
It has been obsolete for YEARS, BUT I think I have some, I'll check.
BTW, the pin welded onto the end of the primary chain case has a hardened sleeve on it, as the sifter is shifted this pin with hardened sleeve moves from side to side in the "yoke" slot, many times the hardened sleeve begins to have a groove worn in it, this allows the driven disc to sit FURTHER from the drive plate on bottom of the engine, thus giving the impression of wear on the rubber drive tire. The same issue arises when this same hardened sleeve wears into the inside surface of the slotted area of the "yoke". BEFORE you go to the trouble of lowering the engine plate check these issues I noted above.
On front of the old parts manuals it tells how to determine the series, with YOUR example your unit is a 19 series
+Numa Newbern I have the hi-vac 25" Snapper M250819BE, I think its 2001 because serial number starts with the number 1. im wondering, if its been obsolete so long, as you say, do they still sell them? and will they fit the newer models which have design changes to the brakes as well?
What size allen key did it call for ?
I got one from the 60s. trying to let it soak. my pulley is seized to the shaft. great video
Thanks for watching and commenting. You may have to let it sit overnight to break the rust up. PB Blaster is good for breaking rust. All the best.
Air chisel/hammer it off.
You may only need a replacement friction ring. They wear out and are made to be replaced over time. They key is when replacing a new ring. It should not be able to slide over clutch when in gear. Has to be in neutral positing to install the new ring. If you can install the new ring while in gear , then you need to drop the friction plate more to make good contact with friction plate and new ring.
The yoke on mine was badly worn not putting enough pressure against the plate. My disc barely touched after lowering plate to maximum 3 13/16.
My snapper has the same problem with hills. I will try this Thanks !
All the best with the adjustment. Thanks for watching.
hi thanks for the video can you tell me the size of those two screws? i can't find a key that fit!
i tryed with a 5 and a 6 but its too smaal or too big! i'm scared that is an american size!
can you help me?
federico moroni
What's the model of the mower? I was able to find this info.
Snapper Hex Recess Set Screw 7090132YP
Hope that helps. Cheers
Do you have any info on how to install (replace broken) idler arm on snapper riding M281019BE. I have part but cannot see hoe to 'slide' off broken piece and put new back on to spindle. another DIY project (I hope) thanx
Looks like you will need to remove the main deck pulley first. Here is a link: www.searspartsdirect.com/model-part/m281019be/3290/1506000/p0807039/00015.html
+DIY OneForAll
Hope it helps. It should be a fun diy :)
Thanks learned how. Good job.
Good job.
Thanks for posting it.
And that doesn't mess with the blade belt alignment and cause premature wear on the belt? I'm no lawn mower expert but I am concerned about that. Old style car gamblers would get chewed up if the pulleys weren't perfectly lined up, is it not the same principle with these mowers? Again just asking not trying to say anyone is wrong, just wondering what you know that I dont.
bubba ray
Well, it's still liking what I did to it after all these years. No premature belt failure. Mine was really out of alignment to begin with. I bought it from a fellow. Cheers
I know this is old but the deck height adjustment changes the belt angle much more than moving the pulley 1/4" or less.
Good job I will do that to mine thank you
Nice job I have to do that to my snapper as well.
Thank you and all the best with your Snapper.
Ho to stand a snapper yard cruiser on it's back bumper?
The Yard Cruiser is big machine. I would rather Jack this one up or use a lift to tilt up. This one could leave a hurting on the back if attempt to lift :) Cheers
thanks bro !
Anthony, you should not have messed with the disc, should have adjusted the spring to the left --- especially since you did not do a max/min spacing adjustment of the disc after moving.
Doug P
Thanks for the comment and suggestion. However, I did have to do both. The previous owner installed a new engine on the Snapper but the spacing was incorrect when the engine was previously replaced. The adjustment resolved my issue. Cheers
Great info,. Thanks
xgi36
Thanks for watching. Cheers
Awesome thank you!!
Glad that the video is helpful, and thanks for watching and commenting.
I think this is my problem. Be careful not to hit drive wheel with chain case
Thanks!
+Jay Still
Anytime, my friend. Glad the video helps.
thank you
From your video ...You need to replace the drive wheel with the rubber on it and then adjust the drive wheel on the motor...I have an older one then yours and mine runs 25 to 30 mph in the high gear....yours should run a lot faster than it is....WCH
I would be afraid to go that fast. My yard is small, and I have smaller kids. However, I wasn't driving fast in this video.
I thought is was moving slow in video also. Mine will haul ass in 5th gear.
3:28 look at this man head. LOLL
That poor yolk is what's worn on it 🤦♂️
It's still running strong 💪
the yoke is shot too
THANK YOU!!!!!!
Anytime, my friend.