knowing how alternators work, I can tell everyone that this is NOT a hoax video. your principles and practices are true. Thanks for posting a valid video.
Thanks for this great video of some years ago. Very instructive. A quick Google on magnetic saturation shows magnetism is controlled by amps and not volts. Your small motor controller varies the voltage of the field. As the speed and the load of the motor changes, the required field voltage will change but not the required amps. As amps increase, first the power increases. It then tops out at saturation and falls. Set the field's amps where that flat top occures. Get a cheap DC/DC power module pcb with controllable amps (less than $10) and see the difference. This also means you can limit the motor's available power by reducing the amps to the field coil. It also reduces the amount of battery power your stator consumes. You can change the "size" of your motor on the fly. That is neat...
Great explanation. In case of alternators, you start the vehicle with 12v+ on the center coil, and brings down this voltage as you accelerate. This creates lots of torque in the start and higher rpm on the run. It's called field weakening
What you say in the initial part of your video is so true - there is not another video that I could come across that describes the procedure to convert an alternator to a motor as clearly and luckily as yours does. So a big thank you for that. I am working on an electric bicycle conversion and this therefore was the most crucial find.
HI, Thanks for the video, I am making a Go Kart for my son,, I bought the alternator today , convert it in the evening ( 10 mn thank you ) wait to buy the other stuff tomorrow .. keep you updated .
Thank you God bless you. I just fussed at another guy for not doing what you are doing. Thank you Sir you are a true human being. I appreciate you explaining this for us.
i did it!!! I got it to work from a stereo amplifier 5v 2.4A USB!!! (It was really slow and shitty but it worked) I used a 250W stereo for plenty of headroom so it wont burn out from the 0.5ohm coils and I gave it a 3-phase sinewave (sensorless obviously) at a certain frequency it would spin up all on its own. but it drew the maximum power from the 5v 2.4A USB powerbank it was kinda jumpy but it spun in the right direction depending if i invert or change the phase I used audacity to do the 3-phase signal to the stereo audio amplifier I hooked it up with one of the coil wires going to one channel and the other two coil wires going to the other channel so now its a 3-phase motor (very weak though because i can stop it with one finger and it only spins like 20 RPM or something like that.
This video is so handy. The Alternator I have is exactly the same as this. Just have to get the ESC for a brushless. Thanks for the video you made years ago.
Maybe the way to go for a go-cart would be to use the diode pack, run your 3 phase out as you have already done and into a 3 phase breaker and ardinuo style control so that you can create some regenerative braking by charging up a pack of Ultra caps. My interest in motoring an alternator is simply for starting my GenSet projects for off grid appications, but possibly if needed by means of Star Delta system used in industrial motor applications. The possibilities are endless. I'm kicking myself for not having been around RC equipment these days like whats used in this video which is absolutely ideal for bench testing. Great Video BTW.
Very good explanation, especially when you put it to pen and paper, one of the best videos explaining how to wire one of these, I can't thank you enough!
That's it I'm subbing to your channel... I've been through I don't know how many videos looking at different alternator videos for different reasons and I swear I've ended up on your channel probably 5 times this week at least so I just subbed .. maybe now I can just go straight to you instead of through Google haha
30 seconds in I like this guy already, first he's figured out how to do this before I repeat BEFORE HE DECIDED TO MAKE A VIDEO ABOUT IT! It's a miracle finally somebody who is NOT a moron. Plus he's got a busted knuckle I like that it says he is a real guy kinda like me. Thank you!
Good job, I'm somewhat of an electric bicycle nut (own 3). I have one of those ebooks you mention where they do a GM alternator, they talk about 0-6v into the slip rings. I was surprised that your findings say so low, could it be because you are sending a PWM signal in there vs real DC? There is a Pow Pow Powerwheels racer built around a gravedigger car that runs twin alternators and a custom controller. That car is one of the fastest ones in the series. Cocktail napkin estimate is 3horsepower per. Would love to hear the rpm details on yours, it sounded fast. I think for any sustained use or heavy load you would need to add a forced cooling shroud and if I were going to try this I would use an ebike 3phase controller, 24-36v and maybe 20-30Amps. Working the formula for power from the volts and amps, 20A @ 24v=480w, one electrical horsepower=746w. My daily rider is a '450w brushed motor' running 24v from a 35Amp pwm box, that's a tad over 1 electrical horsepower and has PLENTY of power to move my fat arse around. Single speed sprocket drive tops out at around 16Mph. When I had the LiFeP04 pack on it I got around 18mph and did a cost study of mile per recharge and at 10c/Kwh it was around 1/4penny per mile! (does not include any cost for maint) Best wishes from sunny Florida.
hmm really good point - i didn't think of that - he is actually pulsing the field rotor - the modulation would result in a EM spike in the rotor- that's why when he can 'match' the em spike with the stator field pulse the motor takes off. thanks for the comment. it would be interesting to see the difference between that and just a Perm Mag rotor.
I watched this kid in Australia put Hal effect sensors inside the alternator. He connected them to his Digital frequency controller the controller was able to make the alternator go in reverse as well. He put it on a bicycle, and flat out he achieved about 47 mph. He also took it off-road and it still had plenty of spunk in the tall grass. He also built a go kart with a single alternator, but it was built just like your alternator His name is austiwawa.
Now that's what I was looking for 7years back when I converted my 50cc scooter... At the time I was asking and everyone was telling me that's too difficult if even possible... So finally I changed the winding of the stator and turned it to a new motor basically... Also bought an expensive airplane controler 600euros...
When a motor is running it acts as a generator as well as a motor. It generates a counter voltage. The more field current, the more counter voltage. When the counter voltage is equal to the supply voltage, that determines the motor's speed. With more field current the counter voltage will build up faster and be equal to the supply voltage at a lower speed. That is why the motor runs slower with more field current, and faster with less field current.
The frequency of the 3 phase speed controller output would determine the no-load RPM, no? I would think that as the load on then motor increases, the field voltage would have to increase. It's acting funky because there is no load on it.
Yes, assuming the 3 phase frequency is adjusted to allow the higher rpm. Because torque is created by the magnetic field of the stator multiplied by the magnetic field of the rotor, the resulting higher rpm due to weakening the rotor field will result in less torque but perhaps the same power output.
The frequency and voltage to rotor coils controls speed normally, but it stalls if field coils are high voltage, because the rotor coil generates strong counter voltage, canceling out power. It acts as a generator too, so a fast rotor coil passing strong magnetic fields generates huge counter voltage, slowing the rotor. The more power produced, the more power needed to turn it. With a strong field coil, the required power is more than the input power to the rotor coils so it stalls. I'm no expert but that's how I understood his comment.
Yes, that's basically the gist of it. If frequency is not kept synchronous with motor RPM, slippage will occur causing torque vibration and likely generation during part of the phase and motoring during another. Assuming RPM/frequency remain in sync, increasing current through either the rotor, stator or both will increase torque and tend to resist a change in RPM with a load change and therefore resist slipping out of sync. Increasing voltage across either will increase current as well because of ohms law.
Thanks so much for the info! You did a great job making this process clear. I,'ve been getting frustrated watching all the videos that show this but do not tell how its done or make it way too confusing. I have an alternator that I now can attempt this with thanks to your video!
I was looking for battery tricks, as My motorcycle' s died. I stumbled on to this video. I am a fan now for sure. I appreciate you man. You didn't overcomplicate the process, confusing a novice at current ,amps, load. Can't wait to see more from you. I tire easily of some videos that you have to watch for too long to even figure out what the " you won't believe what you can do with....." Keep up the good work, and relaying you are willing to answer questions, and receptive to what maybe a better idea. Thanks, Trying to learn in Nor. Cal.
I am with you ! I would love to make an electric gocart or an electric bike / motorcycle ! Just to prove it can be done but a quiet toy that really has some strength
May the Lord almighty bless you you have changed my life for the good man may you get the thing that you want the most in your life man cause you granted me what i have looked for for a long time BLESSINGS MAN
I have been feeling that way on things myself lately and I am only 49. I am sure your comment here will be in my thoughts almost daily till I'm breathing no more. I have so many things I want to make still and I know that I won't have time to... I miss the days when I had forever left :-(
Halfway there now just hook up a standard alternator with a belt to your converted alternator / motor and hopefully discover free energy via the output of the factory alternator you could even run a additional wire from the factory alternators output back to your converted alternator to supplement its power also and still generate enough power to power a few fans or whatever
eres mi inspiracion,,, gracias por compartir,, busco permanentemente informacion y hacer mi propio proyecto mirando diferentes adaptaciones... no busco mas,, hare lo mismo que vos, gracias totales. P.D. como hago para traducir tu audio?.
Hi. Thanks for the excellent tutorial. I would really like to build a go kart with this as a motor. I searched ebay and those e-scooter / bike brushless speed controllers are very affordable and should have all the necessary connections. I noticed that they also have a brake low / high connection. Can you use them to use them to brake the motor and charge the batteries back up? (like they do in electric and hybrid cars). It would make the batteries last longer.
Congratulations for the video. I am a man from Spain interested in his video. Can you put the links to buy the components that you explain in the video? thank you very much
CNCmachiningisfun can you please give me information on how to you did yours I am really interested in making my trike electric but I don't want to spend a fortune Tia
Brock Hance Yep, sure can. Start out by pulling the alt to bits, as per these videos. Bring out all 6 of the phase wires, so you'll have proper access to the 3 stator coils. Bypass the regulator, and bring out the two wires for the brushes. Deliver between 3 and 12V to the brushes, to establish the required speed/torque range. Use an RC aircraft ESC, rated at no less than 60A, to drive the alternator, wired in Delta mode. Star mode (original alt internal wiring) works OK, but I find that Delta mode gives more torque and speed for the same electrical power input. That will get you going, rather nicely, as you can see in my videos :) .
I'm a member of the UK power wheels and a college on that sudgested I have a power resistor in line with the field Coil and switch that would bypass it effectively giving you a high touqe low speed 1st gear and a low touqe high speed 2nd gear. You could switch the resistor to a 12v motor controller with a potentiometer on it if you wanted to dial in 2nd but that may be overkill.
I think the start/run issues is because the field windings voltage is pwm controlled. the frequency of the pwm is interfering with the frequency of the 3 phase controller. Maybe just a fixed dc voltage to the field windings or a large capacitor across the field field winding will sort it ?
PWMing the inductive field winding will result in high voltage spikes and adding a capacitor across the winding may result in parallel resonance. Probably best to use PWM input to a "buck regulator" arrangement of the rotor coil, a capacitor and a freewheeling diode to keep flyback voltage in check.
JUST GO MAKE IT - To really feel the full operating range of the motor, it would help to be in control of your oscillator frequency. It would take instruments or circuits, but, I think those RC hobby brushless controllers might quit trying to operate if the motor spins too slow. Slowness _should_ happen when the field current is way higher than 2v. 'No-Load Speed' should go down as field goes up. It's 'Stall Torque' that should go up with field current. Field coil instead of P.M.'s makes it a variable transmission: Motor is a fast wimp at low field, or a slow bull at high field. Torque demo: maybe put dc 10amps thru any one winding, and vary the field current with another dc supply, and try turning the shaft by hand. It'll try to stand still, fighting you with the motor's maximum torque, which will be proportional to field current. Maybe somewhere below 12v on field coil the iron cores saturate (can't carry any more magnetic flux lines), and then the stall torque won't increase any farther with higher voltage or current. Or maybe it increases till somewhere past 12v, I dunno.
A similar generator pushes my car with a driver and a passenger. I like it. I also like to make interesting projects, one of which I do on my RUclips channel
Hello you need a good gear to exploit the power of the engine alternator conversion brushless ... This is the controller that will vary the speed of rotation ... ride a bike 26 ", you need 1/7 reducer ... 1 spin for 7th round engine ... it gives you a top speed of 60 km / h under 48v ....
The field current requires a "current source", not a voltage source. The more field current, the more field strength, unless you saturate the core. The field current for an alternator can handle a few amps. Just a suggestion, connect multiple batteries in parallel to get more current.
Richard Vasquez. Do you NOT UNDERSTAND that a voltage supplied to the field applied across the resistance of the field coil is going to cause a field current to flow?
You're right Richard, but assuming the field is not saturated, current is determined by ohm's law so varying voltage to the field will work to vary current.
cphank151 The field current is determined by field supply voltage, back emf and field resistance. Assuming the field is "saturated" (or in any other state) what can you do to raise or lower the field current? Raise or lower the field ___________. Further he suggests to put more batteries in parallel to increase the field current. So maintain the field supply voltage at the same voltage as one battery .....and you say he is correct. No, the beginning and end of his response are both incorrect. The middle sentence is correct though.
I think you have the names of coils mixed up. As I understand it, the field coils are the three outer coils that make up the stator. The rotor has the coils that are switched on and off via the brushes. Either way, a great video 👍
Thank you very much for the grateful experiment. However, I will be very thankful if you can provide me with the sources of the kits 'especially the part that convert the DC single phase into AC 3 phases' which was used in this project. Looking forward to hearing from you.
This is a synchronous motor with very low torque. They are subject to rotor lock up when the torque limit is reached. I did this 45 years ago with alternators while in college. To get any significant torque out of alternators they must have a squirrel cage embedded in the rotor just like a 3Ø motor.
I respectfully disagree svartist. Torque will be proportional to stator current x rotor current, it can be considered the product of the magnetic fields of stator and rotor. As speed increases, back emf approaches the applied voltage resulting in a reduction of stator current and therefore torque as well. If this is done with a 3 phase frequency which was adjusted to allow maximum free running rpm, loading the motor will result in loss of synchrony when even a small torque load is applied resulting a large drop in output torque. If the applied frequency were reduced to match motor rpm at the increased torque load, this increased torque could be maintained. This motor requires power factor sensing in order to adjust voltage in a feed back system or rpm sensing to adjust frequency, also in a feedback loop, for best efficiency. A throttle in such a system is considered a torque control, much like a gasoline engine if power factor is sensed. If rpm and controlled by frequency, this is a speed controlled throttling system which would result in undesirable jerky operation in a motor vehicle. A squirrel cage would make this an induction motor, which can be done with an alternator by shorting the brushes to the rotor. This will result in slip proportional to applied load. The induction motor becomes most efficient at its rated slip RPM which remains rather constant regardless of motor speed and also results in a power factor near unity. A speed controller with feedback controlling frequency to maintain a PF = 1 is desireable.
Thank you @cphank151 for the thorough explanation. This really helps me out on the project I'm working on. (trying to use an alternator to start a small engine and then turn around and use it to generate DC current) I'm getting close and this was one of the last things to wrap my head around and you filled in the missing pieces. Now I just have to start testing.
Good luck on your project @Carlan Wray. The Toyota Prius, and probably other hybrids as well, use a motor attached to the gas engine crankshaft through a pair of overrunning clutches in opposite directions that can be electrically enabled or disabled. This allows the motor to drive the engine to allow restarting almost unnoticably to the driver and also allow the ICE or motor to drive the input to the transmission. This also allows the motor to act as a generator for regen braking without ICE engine braking interfereing as well as turning off exitation to the motor to operate as a gas powered vehicle would in addition to the motor driving the vehicle without the ICE turning at all.
Thank you @cphank151. I don't think I will need any clutches to make this work. I will just have two three pole relays, one between the ESC and the alternator and one between the alternator and my rectifier. With my PLC controlling the field voltage to vary the voltage output to the batteries and switching between starting and charging. Shouldn't be toohard.
Soldier the 4 the wire to the motor chasie and your field will self regulate according to load and rpm. Motors are living things that feel there inner workings.
I appreciate appreciate it. I just wanted to put all the ass and ends up there but you're not really showing us on the alternator cuz you going back and forth from the paper to the alternator we actually need to see the work on the alternator thank you and I'm sorry for being blunt and what kind of a little dumb so you know maybe I got to get hit alternator to get it
Hi, thank you for your awesome videos, I learned a lot from them, just have trouble running it, I use 24v cordless drill battery I think it's the ESC, how do I test it? And if it's faulty, which one I should use? Thank you
If you dont have a speed controler can you short the armature together to make an electro magnet or add a diode to the armature contact to polarize it?
Well, thanks for all your info; I have been wondering how to make a commercial meat grinder with silent power( I have tried my battery power drill but it too is loud) Yes, I know there are meat grinders with electric motors but they are loud. I live in a senior apt and I'm always worried about the noise. Knowing now that you have presented a different option I'm going to look into to this a bit more. I too enjoy tinkering with different things and it is just another Idea to tackle. If anyone out there has any tips for me I would greatly appreciate it. One question? will this method recharge the battery?
Thanks for that video because I have an alternator and I am building a go kart ,but I need to know how to control the alternator so what are the parts specifications ??? *RC air plane speed controller *Brushed motor speed controller *6s lithium battery *2s nano tech
please make it sure that the video you have made is much more clear to be aeen by the audiance... m aint talking about video quality... but the angle and viewing boundries
checkmate - The fact that Shantanu Nadkarni does not speak English as a native language does not mean that he's stupid, or that his point is invalid. I also found myself trying to scroll the page down a couple of times to see something that the narrator was talking about, but that was off the bottom of the screen.
It’s a good video that could have been great if the audience could have seen the connections to the components, batteries and controllers etc. It would have been exceptional if a schematic was included.
Just based on the video movement, i would assume he used some sort of stabilization software where basically just crops the video down and tries to steady by moving the video around and keeping a few points constant... that's likely why much of the FOV is not as intended
Most alternators are 6-phase, not 3-phase. The phase angle is 60º - not 120º This is actually brilliant, as it allows six diodes in half-wave configuration to produce a very low ripple DC output. Using it as a motor can work, but your drive devices must be able to tolerate the output going negative, and must be cognizant of the 60º phase relationship, as opposed to the 120º in a conventional 3-phase motor.
I respectfully disagree with you Curt Lundgren. Automotive alternators typically contain 6 diodes with two diodes connected to each of the three phases. One of these two diodes is connected anode to negative (ground) and conducts when the phase output is negative with respect to ground. The other diode is connected cathode to the battery and conducts when the phase output is positive with respect to battery voltage.
al igual que USTED, separé el bobinado del alternador (es trifásico) y lo lleve esos 14 voltios de AC a un autrotransformador trifásico, con fin de elevar la tensión a 102 voltios, para cargar las 08 baterías de un proyecto (coche eléctrico), la excitación del alternador es a 12 voltios, el cual solo se alimenta, al frenar, sumado a que mecánicamente un pivot hace que el motor eléctrico comience a mover al UNICO alternador (también se activa a petición de usuario, ejemplo conducir en una pendiente) Gracias por explicar calmadamente su inquietud, de gobernar por arduino.
Thoughts on the stator coils Alternator are wired in star config, the three coils connected to the center tap like normal BCD motors. This gives good start torq and poor high speed performance. This is usually your best option. If starting torq isn't important but you'd like about 30% maximum power, connect the three coils in a triangle, cut the wire from center tap of each coil and connected it to the input wire of the next coil. This is called delta config. The best option is to start the motor as a star (for start torque) then switch it over to a delta for efficiency. (You also have to change your name to Elon Musk). It'll require 6 big beafy Mosfet/thyristor switches and an arduino. Unfortunately this will cost more than a bigger alternator from your friendly wrecker yard. It's much easier to live with the inefficiency. Thoughts on the stator A lternators use a stator rather than fixed magnets so the charging performance is more linear as rpm and load changes. You pay for this in efficiency which is not an issue in an automobile. The upside is you can control the motor performance on the fly (but modern brushless EMCs do this already). The cost is in efficiency. The visual hint to how inefficient an alternator is are all the cooling vents and the small fan. The electricity that doesnt go into spinning the shaft ends up as heat. It seems you can expect an efficiency of under 70%. Good BCD motors give efficiencies in the low 90s. The alternator will also be about two and a half times the size of a BDC of the same power. An old and dirty alternator is VASTLY more robust and better engineered than the best BDC motor and will cost about US$30 from your local wrecker. You can usually live with the inefficiency. The bigger size and all the vents looks better to me.
Good idea , and nice work , but you should use a fixed voltage excitation for the rotor , for 12v alternator it should be 5-6v , that's the way that the output voltage is controlled on regular use in cars , you didn't tell us about the torque , is it high enough ?
Thanks for the info. Looks like the perfect ideal cheap motor for an E bike. Could you use a sewing machine foot control pedal with it ? Around $30 on eBay. I don't know if AC and DC current makes any difference.
As suggested a starting cap will work with dc to boost the flux of the field winding initially and then a switched capacitor to keep it constant... Using a mosfet or transistor to switch it on and off could work with pwm and enable you to have better power efficiency. Good Luck.
a test of this type of device is to rotate the alternator for a value that is equal on the other side at the motor to prove you have done it right. or to prove you built them both right.
Hello: Pls explain for everyone 3 connections for Delta vs 4 connections for Wye configuration as some alternators are wired different. Just to alleviate some confusion that could occur. Thx so much
Very good explanations but I have a question that seems very important to me, after all the turn of turning the regulator into a motor. How many revolutions and HP a hundred-amp regulator will it have? When converted to an engine. You can send me the ligatures diagram
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knowing how alternators work, I can tell everyone that this is NOT a hoax video. your principles and practices are true. Thanks for posting a valid video.
Sir this the worst description for project I have viewed pls they are windings not coils you see connected in star config
Thanks for this great video of some years ago. Very instructive.
A quick Google on magnetic saturation shows magnetism is controlled by amps and not volts. Your small motor controller varies the voltage of the field. As the speed and the load of the motor changes, the required field voltage will change but not the required amps. As amps increase, first the power increases. It then tops out at saturation and falls. Set the field's amps where that flat top occures.
Get a cheap DC/DC power module pcb with controllable amps (less than $10) and see the difference.
This also means you can limit the motor's available power by reducing the amps to the field coil. It also reduces the amount of battery power your stator consumes. You can change the "size" of your motor on the fly. That is neat...
InstaBlaster
Very well explained and clear like a crystal. You are a blessed man and thank you.
Great explanation. In case of alternators, you start the vehicle with 12v+ on the center coil, and brings down this voltage as you accelerate. This creates lots of torque in the start and higher rpm on the run. It's called field weakening
How do you lower the voltage?
What you say in the initial part of your video is so true - there is not another video that I could come across that describes the procedure to convert an alternator to a motor as clearly and luckily as yours does.
So a big thank you for that. I am working on an electric bicycle conversion and this therefore was the most crucial find.
Thank you for the Explanation on the Alternator wiring ! A Great DIY !
Very good your project! I wanted to do something like this on a bike, but here in Brazil and difficult things, example parts are expensive
Yes!!! you do solves my problems by watching the video keep it up sir
HI, Thanks for the video, I am making a Go Kart for my son,, I bought the alternator today , convert it in the evening ( 10 mn thank you ) wait to buy the other stuff tomorrow .. keep you updated .
Thank you God bless you. I just fussed at another guy for not doing what you are doing. Thank you Sir you are a true human being. I appreciate you explaining this for us.
i did it!!!
I got it to work from a stereo amplifier 5v 2.4A USB!!! (It was really slow and shitty but it worked)
I used a 250W stereo for plenty of headroom so it wont burn out from the 0.5ohm coils
and I gave it a 3-phase sinewave (sensorless obviously)
at a certain frequency it would spin up all on its own. but it drew the maximum power from the 5v 2.4A USB powerbank
it was kinda jumpy but it spun in the right direction depending if i invert or change the phase
I used audacity to do the 3-phase signal to the stereo audio amplifier
I hooked it up with one of the coil wires going to one channel
and the other two coil wires going to the other channel
so now its a 3-phase motor (very weak though because i can stop it with one finger and it only spins like 20 RPM or something like that.
realflow100
>using a strong car radio to tun a motor
Thats awesome and creative as fuck
That was surprising about the voltage needed in the rotating field. Very informative.
This video is so handy. The Alternator I have is exactly the same as this. Just have to get the ESC for a brushless. Thanks for the video you made years ago.
Maybe the way to go for a go-cart would be to use the diode pack, run your 3 phase out as you have already done and into a 3 phase breaker and ardinuo style control so that you can create some regenerative braking by charging up a pack of Ultra caps. My interest in motoring an alternator is simply for starting my GenSet projects for off grid appications, but possibly if needed by means of Star Delta system used in industrial motor applications. The possibilities are endless. I'm kicking myself for not having been around RC equipment these days like whats used in this video which is absolutely ideal for bench testing. Great Video BTW.
Saying hi from Puerto Rico your video is clear now I now I understand how to do it thank you
Yes!!! you do solves my problems by watching the video keep it up sir. Thanks for posting a valid video.
Very good explanation, especially when you put it to pen and paper, one of the best videos explaining how to wire one of these, I can't thank you enough!
thanks, and you are very welcome.
This is a cool experimentation, thanks for sharing.
That's it I'm subbing to your channel... I've been through I don't know how many videos looking at different alternator videos for different reasons and I swear I've ended up on your channel probably 5 times this week at least so I just subbed .. maybe now I can just go straight to you instead of through Google haha
30 seconds in I like this guy already, first he's figured out how to do this before I repeat BEFORE HE DECIDED TO MAKE A VIDEO ABOUT IT! It's a miracle finally somebody who is NOT a moron. Plus he's got a busted knuckle I like that it says he is a real guy kinda like me. Thank you!
Thanks for the video....your an awesome human being!!
Good job, I'm somewhat of an electric bicycle nut (own 3). I have one of those ebooks you mention where they do a GM alternator, they talk about 0-6v into the slip rings. I was surprised that your findings say so low, could it be because you are sending a PWM signal in there vs real DC? There is a Pow Pow Powerwheels racer built around a gravedigger car that runs twin alternators and a custom controller. That car is one of the fastest ones in the series. Cocktail napkin estimate is 3horsepower per. Would love to hear the rpm details on yours, it sounded fast. I think for any sustained use or heavy load you would need to add a forced cooling shroud and if I were going to try this I would use an ebike 3phase controller, 24-36v and maybe 20-30Amps. Working the formula for power from the volts and amps, 20A @ 24v=480w, one electrical horsepower=746w.
My daily rider is a '450w brushed motor' running 24v from a 35Amp pwm box, that's a tad over 1 electrical horsepower and has PLENTY of power to move my fat arse around.
Single speed sprocket drive tops out at around 16Mph. When I had the LiFeP04 pack on it I got around 18mph and did a cost study of mile per recharge and at 10c/Kwh it was around 1/4penny per mile! (does not include any cost for maint)
Best wishes from sunny Florida.
He mentioned, he also used a AA battery. Im assuming thats 1.2 - 1.7v DC
hmm really good point - i didn't think of that - he is actually pulsing the field rotor - the modulation would result in a EM spike in the rotor- that's why when he can 'match' the em spike with the stator field pulse the motor takes off.
thanks for the comment.
it would be interesting to see the difference between that and just a Perm Mag rotor.
Thanks a lot, you right about that I always wanted to know how to do that
Thanks.
"Know one explains" cant be any more true.
Thank you very much for the explanatory video. You saved my bucks and ducks. I just go and make it then. :)
I watched this kid in Australia put Hal effect sensors inside the alternator. He connected them to his Digital frequency controller the controller was able to make the alternator go in reverse as well. He put it on a bicycle, and flat out he achieved about 47 mph. He also took it off-road and it still had plenty of spunk in the tall grass. He also built a go kart with a single alternator, but it was built just like your alternator His name is austiwawa.
Austiwawa has great diy EV videos!
Thanks for exsplaning I was looking and looking
Just saw this video, awesome job. Thank you
Nice job, a lot of good info. we all appreciate this
Speak for your damn self
@@princedelord2148 Hair up your a??? this morning? Prince is not the correct name for you
i really like the info. Thanks
Now that's what I was looking for 7years back when I converted my 50cc scooter... At the time I was asking and everyone was telling me that's too difficult if even possible... So finally I changed the winding of the stator and turned it to a new motor basically... Also bought an expensive airplane controler 600euros...
..at last..now i understand how it is connected!..other videos really don't teach sad to say :-( ..thank you sir! can't wait to try one...
+Philip Bullas your welcome. Thats the whole reason i made this video.
When a motor is running it acts as a generator as well as a motor. It generates a counter voltage. The more field current, the more counter voltage. When the counter voltage is equal to the supply voltage, that determines the motor's speed. With more field current the counter voltage will build up faster and be equal to the supply voltage at a lower speed. That is why the motor runs slower with more field current, and faster with less field current.
The frequency of the 3 phase speed controller output would determine the no-load RPM, no? I would think that as the load on then motor increases, the field voltage would have to increase. It's acting funky because there is no load on it.
Yes, assuming the 3 phase frequency is adjusted to allow the higher rpm. Because torque is created by the magnetic field of the stator multiplied by the magnetic field of the rotor, the resulting higher rpm due to weakening the rotor field will result in less torque but perhaps the same power output.
The frequency and voltage to rotor coils controls speed normally, but it stalls if field coils are high voltage, because the rotor coil generates strong counter voltage, canceling out power. It acts as a generator too, so a fast rotor coil passing strong magnetic fields generates huge counter voltage, slowing the rotor. The more power produced, the more power needed to turn it. With a strong field coil, the required power is more than the input power to the rotor coils so it stalls. I'm no expert but that's how I understood his comment.
Sintron y coles de bruselàs
Yes, that's basically the gist of it. If frequency is not kept synchronous with motor RPM, slippage will occur causing torque vibration and likely generation during part of the phase and motoring during another. Assuming RPM/frequency remain in sync, increasing current through either the rotor, stator or both will increase torque and tend to resist a change in RPM with a load change and therefore resist slipping out of sync. Increasing voltage across either will increase current as well because of ohms law.
I do apologize hi I watch this vedeo and it's the one thank you for being real with it
Thanks so much for the info! You did a great job making this process clear. I,'ve been getting frustrated watching all the videos that show this but do not tell how its done or make it way too confusing. I have an alternator that I now can attempt this with thanks to your video!
+spear913 your welcome, i am planning a video to see how much power i can make with this setup.
Really good video keep up the good work
I was looking for battery tricks, as My motorcycle' s died. I stumbled on to this video. I am a fan now for sure.
I appreciate you man. You didn't overcomplicate the process, confusing a novice at current ,amps, load. Can't wait to see more from you. I tire easily of some videos that you have to watch for too long to even figure out what the " you won't believe what you can do with....." Keep up the good work, and relaying you are willing to answer questions, and receptive to what maybe a better idea.
Thanks,
Trying to learn in Nor. Cal.
I am with you ! I would love to make an electric gocart or an electric bike / motorcycle ! Just to prove it can be done but a quiet toy that really has some strength
Yeah I had a suggestion for you if you try a dimmer switch on the field coil connection you be able to control voltage and the saturation great video
Dimmer switch will work???
Im askin richard fi
probably, but i know that rheostats work
May the Lord almighty bless you you have changed my life for the good man may you get the thing that you want the most in your life man cause you granted me what i have looked for for a long time BLESSINGS MAN
+macala kapus thank you im very happy i was able to help
@macala kapus Hahahaaha .... great comment man!!
R
macala kapus
what about that alternate / motor, does it work or not ? I'm 78 , I don't have time experiment, regards,
I have been feeling that way on things myself lately and I am only 49. I am sure your comment here will be in my thoughts almost daily till I'm breathing no more. I have so many things I want to make still and I know that I won't have time to... I miss the days when I had forever left :-(
WOW I'm Hooked thank you I owe you
Good videos thanks for the information
Brilliant idea bro,this one if developed well it wl change the history of e bikes and e cars as well.keep it up.
Thank you a LOT!
Best detailed video, keep up the good work. Hope to see more .
Halfway there now just hook up a standard alternator with a belt to your converted alternator / motor and hopefully discover free energy via the output of the factory alternator you could even run a additional wire from the factory alternators output back to your converted alternator to supplement its power also and still generate enough power to power a few fans or whatever
eres mi inspiracion,,, gracias por compartir,, busco permanentemente informacion y hacer mi propio proyecto mirando diferentes adaptaciones... no busco mas,, hare lo mismo que vos, gracias totales. P.D. como hago para traducir tu audio?.
Thanks for your time
awsome stuff mate thanks heaps for your knowledge
tytyty for ur explnation of this i want to make one thesse for my bike
Yeh for some reason it is hidden. Thanks for clearing it up. I want to turn one into a generator.
Thanks for your instructions. Do you have any idea of the output?
Thank you!
this video is a guide for ever
Hi. Thanks for the excellent tutorial. I would really like to build a go kart with this as a motor. I searched ebay and those e-scooter / bike brushless speed controllers are very affordable and should have all the necessary connections. I noticed that they also have a brake low / high connection. Can you use them to use them to brake the motor and charge the batteries back up? (like they do in electric and hybrid cars). It would make the batteries last longer.
This is so dope
A little bit inaccurate with some statements there but video is brilliant and well done for creating it
Great your project. plus mi tire one doubts how many volts I put in the terminals of the rotor thank you
You should have started from scratch and showed the back and diodes being removed
Congratulations for the video. I am a man from Spain interested in his video. Can you put the links to buy the components that you explain in the video? thank you very much
Good video GRACIAS
I made an Ebike with one of these.
It runs like a dream, and it is almost silent :) .
CNCmachiningisfun can you please give me information on how to you did yours I am really interested in making my trike electric but I don't want to spend a fortune Tia
Brock Hance
Yep, sure can.
Start out by pulling the alt to bits, as per these videos.
Bring out all 6 of the phase wires, so you'll have proper access to the 3 stator coils.
Bypass the regulator, and bring out the two wires for the brushes.
Deliver between 3 and 12V to the brushes, to establish the required speed/torque range.
Use an RC aircraft ESC, rated at no less than 60A, to drive the alternator, wired in Delta mode.
Star mode (original alt internal wiring) works OK, but I find that Delta mode gives more torque and speed for the same electrical power input.
That will get you going, rather nicely, as you can see in my videos :) .
I'm a member of the UK power wheels and a college on that sudgested I have a power resistor in line with the field Coil and switch that would bypass it effectively giving you a high touqe low speed 1st gear and a low touqe high speed 2nd gear. You could switch the resistor to a 12v motor controller with a potentiometer on it if you wanted to dial in 2nd but that may be overkill.
I think the start/run issues is because the field windings voltage is pwm controlled. the frequency of the pwm is interfering with the frequency of the 3 phase controller. Maybe just a fixed dc voltage to the field windings or a large capacitor across the field field winding will sort it ?
+Gaz S i will have to try that, thanks for the idea
+Gaz S i will have to try that, thanks for the idea
+Gaz S i will have to try that, thanks for the idea
PWMing the inductive field winding will result in high voltage spikes and adding a capacitor across the winding may result in parallel resonance. Probably best to use PWM input to a "buck regulator" arrangement of the rotor coil, a capacitor and a freewheeling diode to keep flyback voltage in check.
JUST GO MAKE IT - To really feel the full operating range of the motor, it would help to be in control of your oscillator frequency. It would take instruments or circuits, but, I think those RC hobby brushless controllers might quit trying to operate if the motor spins too slow. Slowness _should_ happen when the field current is way higher than 2v. 'No-Load Speed' should go down as field goes up. It's 'Stall Torque' that should go up with field current. Field coil instead of P.M.'s makes it a variable transmission: Motor is a fast wimp at low field, or a slow bull at high field. Torque demo: maybe put dc 10amps thru any one winding, and vary the field current with another dc supply, and try turning the shaft by hand. It'll try to stand still, fighting you with the motor's maximum torque, which will be proportional to field current. Maybe somewhere below 12v on field coil the iron cores saturate (can't carry any more magnetic flux lines), and then the stall torque won't increase any farther with higher voltage or current. Or maybe it increases till somewhere past 12v, I dunno.
A similar generator pushes my car with a driver and a passenger. I like it. I also like to make interesting projects, one of which I do on my RUclips channel
Nice vid. That’s a gnarly busted knuckle, I hope you didn’t get it when taking that alternator out to make this vid.
Hello
you need a good gear to exploit the power of the engine alternator conversion brushless ...
This is the controller that will vary the speed of rotation ...
ride a bike 26 ", you need 1/7 reducer ...
1 spin for 7th round engine ... it gives you a top speed of 60 km / h under 48v ....
The field current requires a "current source", not a voltage source. The more field current, the more field strength, unless you saturate the core. The field current for an alternator can handle a few amps.
Just a suggestion, connect multiple batteries in parallel to get more current.
Richard Vasquez. Do you NOT UNDERSTAND that a voltage supplied to the field applied across the resistance of the field coil is going to cause a field current to flow?
You're right Richard, but assuming the field is not saturated, current is determined by ohm's law so varying voltage to the field will work to vary current.
cphank151 The field current is determined by field supply voltage, back emf and field resistance. Assuming the field is "saturated" (or in any other state) what can you do to raise or lower the field current? Raise or lower the field ___________. Further he suggests to put more batteries in parallel to increase the field current. So maintain the field supply voltage at the same voltage as one battery .....and you say he is correct. No, the beginning and end of his response are both incorrect. The middle sentence is correct though.
I'll take a setup, be nice for camping
I think you have the names of coils mixed up. As I understand it, the field coils are the three outer coils that make up the stator. The rotor has the coils that are switched on and off via the brushes. Either way, a great video 👍
You are correct.
I need something to do. Cheers from Aotearoa NZ.
SMART GUY. THANK YOU. NOT SURE IF I UNDERSTAND IT YET BUT WILLRESEACH IT MORE THANK YOU FOR THE IDEA. HOW MUCH VOLTAGE CAN THIS PUT OUT ?
Thank you very much for the grateful experiment. However, I will be very thankful if you can provide me with the sources of the kits 'especially the part that convert the DC single phase into AC 3 phases' which was used in this project. Looking forward to hearing from you.
This is a synchronous motor with very low torque. They are subject to rotor lock up when the torque limit is reached. I did this 45 years ago with alternators while in college. To get any significant torque out of alternators they must have a squirrel cage embedded in the rotor just like a 3Ø motor.
I respectfully disagree svartist. Torque will be proportional to stator current x rotor current, it can be considered the product of the magnetic fields of stator and rotor. As speed increases, back emf approaches the applied voltage resulting in a reduction of stator current and therefore torque as well. If this is done with a 3 phase frequency which was adjusted to allow maximum free running rpm, loading the motor will result in loss of synchrony when even a small torque load is applied resulting a large drop in output torque. If the applied frequency were reduced to match motor rpm at the increased torque load, this increased torque could be maintained. This motor requires power factor sensing in order to adjust voltage in a feed back system or rpm sensing to adjust frequency, also in a feedback loop, for best efficiency. A throttle in such a system is considered a torque control, much like a gasoline engine if power factor is sensed. If rpm and controlled by frequency, this is a speed controlled throttling system which would result in undesirable jerky operation in a motor vehicle. A squirrel cage would make this an induction motor, which can be done with an alternator by shorting the brushes to the rotor. This will result in slip proportional to applied load. The induction motor becomes most efficient at its rated slip RPM which remains rather constant regardless of motor speed and also results in a power factor near unity. A speed controller with feedback controlling frequency to maintain a PF = 1 is desireable.
Thank you @cphank151 for the thorough explanation. This really helps me out on the project I'm working on. (trying to use an alternator to start a small engine and then turn around and use it to generate DC current) I'm getting close and this was one of the last things to wrap my head around and you filled in the missing pieces. Now I just have to start testing.
Good luck on your project @Carlan Wray. The Toyota Prius, and probably other hybrids as well, use a motor attached to the gas engine crankshaft through a pair of overrunning clutches in opposite directions that can be electrically enabled or disabled. This allows the motor to drive the engine to allow restarting almost unnoticably to the driver and also allow the ICE or motor to drive the input to the transmission. This also allows the motor to act as a generator for regen braking without ICE engine braking interfereing as well as turning off exitation to the motor to operate as a gas powered vehicle would in addition to the motor driving the vehicle without the ICE turning at all.
Thank you @cphank151. I don't think I will need any clutches to make this work. I will just have two three pole relays, one between the ESC and the alternator and one between the alternator and my rectifier. With my PLC controlling the field voltage to vary the voltage output to the batteries and switching between starting and charging. Shouldn't be toohard.
Many years ago, I had a friend with a tractor mower that motorized the GENERATOR to start it instead of using a separate starter motor.
Soldier the 4 the wire to the motor chasie and your field will self regulate according to load and rpm.
Motors are living things that feel there inner workings.
Alternatively you can drill a hole to the rotor and add neodymium magnets to rotor, save you energy when running on battery
Some of the newer cars use the alternator as a starter. The new Honda Goldwing 1800 uses a combo starter-alternator. No separate starter motor.
Easy to control it you can use and stereo volume control
I appreciate appreciate it. I just wanted to put all the ass and ends up there but you're not really showing us on the alternator cuz you going back and forth from the paper to the alternator we actually need to see the work on the alternator thank you and I'm sorry for being blunt and what kind of a little dumb so you know maybe I got to get hit alternator to get it
Hi, thank you for your awesome videos, I learned a lot from them, just have trouble running it, I use 24v cordless drill battery I think it's the ESC, how do I test it? And if it's faulty, which one I should use? Thank you
If you dont have a speed controler can you short the armature together to make an electro magnet or add a diode to the armature contact to polarize it?
Well, thanks for all your info; I have been wondering how to make a commercial meat grinder with silent power( I have tried my battery power drill but it too is loud) Yes, I know there are meat grinders with electric motors but they are loud. I live in a senior apt and I'm always worried about the noise. Knowing now that you have presented a different option I'm going to look into to this a bit more. I too enjoy tinkering with different things and it is just another Idea to tackle. If anyone out there has any tips for me I would greatly appreciate it. One question? will this method recharge the battery?
did you try to use a Y servo wire from the ESC and the brushed controller?
Thanks for that video because I have an alternator and I am building a go kart ,but I need to know how to control the alternator so what are the parts specifications ???
*RC air plane speed controller
*Brushed motor speed controller
*6s lithium battery
*2s nano tech
please make it sure that the video you have made is much more clear to be aeen by the audiance...
m aint talking about video quality... but the angle and viewing boundries
checkmate - The fact that Shantanu Nadkarni does not speak English as a native language does not mean that he's stupid, or that his point is invalid. I also found myself trying to scroll the page down a couple of times to see something that the narrator was talking about, but that was off the bottom of the screen.
It’s a good video that could have been great if the audience could have seen the connections to the components, batteries and controllers etc. It would have been exceptional if a schematic was included.
Just based on the video movement, i would assume he used some sort of stabilization software where basically just crops the video down and tries to steady by moving the video around and keeping a few points constant... that's likely why much of the FOV is not as intended
Roasted, I'm going to be expecting comments like this in the future with my own videos lol.
Most alternators are 6-phase, not 3-phase. The phase angle is 60º - not 120º This is actually brilliant, as it allows six diodes in half-wave configuration to produce a very low ripple DC output. Using it as a motor can work, but your drive devices must be able to tolerate the output going negative, and must be cognizant of the 60º phase relationship, as opposed to the 120º in a conventional 3-phase motor.
I respectfully disagree with you Curt Lundgren. Automotive alternators typically contain 6 diodes with two diodes connected to each of the three phases. One of these two diodes is connected anode to negative (ground) and conducts when the phase output is negative with respect to ground. The other diode is connected cathode to the battery and conducts when the phase output is positive with respect to battery voltage.
CP hank is correct. "Most" automotive alternators are 3 phase
al igual que USTED, separé el bobinado del alternador (es trifásico) y lo lleve esos 14 voltios de AC a un autrotransformador trifásico, con fin de elevar la tensión a 102 voltios, para cargar las 08 baterías de un proyecto (coche eléctrico), la excitación del alternador es a 12 voltios, el cual solo se alimenta, al frenar, sumado a que mecánicamente un pivot hace que el motor eléctrico comience a mover al UNICO alternador (también se activa a petición de usuario, ejemplo conducir en una pendiente) Gracias por explicar calmadamente su inquietud, de gobernar por arduino.
can you list the exact parts list so I can order it, please?
Have you thought about using a dimmer switch. The type that are used in your homes. Or the small hoverboard controllers
Thoughts on the stator coils
Alternator are wired in star config, the three coils connected to the center tap like normal BCD motors. This gives good start torq and poor high speed performance. This is usually your best option. If starting torq isn't important but you'd like about 30% maximum power, connect the three coils in a triangle, cut the wire from center tap of each coil and connected it to the input wire of the next coil. This is called delta config. The best option is to start the motor as a star (for start torque) then switch it over to a delta for efficiency. (You also have to change your name to Elon Musk). It'll require 6 big beafy Mosfet/thyristor switches and an arduino. Unfortunately this will cost more than a bigger alternator from your friendly wrecker yard. It's much easier to live with the inefficiency.
Thoughts on the stator
A lternators use a stator rather than fixed magnets so the charging performance is more linear as rpm and load changes. You pay for this in efficiency which is not an issue in an automobile. The upside is you can control the motor performance on the fly (but modern brushless EMCs do this already). The cost is in efficiency.
The visual hint to how inefficient an alternator is are all the cooling vents and the small fan. The electricity that doesnt go into spinning the shaft ends up as heat. It seems you can expect an efficiency of under 70%. Good BCD motors give efficiencies in the low 90s. The alternator will also be about two and a half times the size of a BDC of the same power.
An old and dirty alternator is VASTLY more robust and better engineered than the best BDC motor and will cost about US$30 from your local wrecker. You can usually live with the inefficiency. The bigger size and all the vents looks better to me.
شكرا عل تعديل دينموا وتشغيلها كمحرك .فيدو رائع
Good idea , and nice work , but you should use a fixed voltage excitation for the rotor , for 12v alternator it should be 5-6v , that's the way that the output voltage is controlled on regular use in cars , you didn't tell us about the torque , is it high enough ?
I would use one of those for a variable speed belt driven furnace and air conditioning fan.
Thanks for the info. Looks like the perfect ideal cheap motor for an E bike. Could you use a sewing machine foot control pedal with it ? Around $30 on eBay. I don't know if AC and DC current makes any difference.
As suggested a starting cap will work with dc to boost the flux of the field winding initially and then a switched capacitor to keep it constant... Using a mosfet or transistor to switch it on and off could work with pwm and enable you to have better power efficiency. Good Luck.
Hello; It is enough to simply take an e-bike controller !! this is very powerful and nothing to make ... easy to use
a test of this type of device is to rotate the alternator for a value that is equal on the other side at the motor to prove you have done it right. or to prove you built them both right.
Hello: Pls explain for everyone 3 connections for Delta vs 4 connections for Wye configuration as some alternators are wired different. Just to alleviate some confusion that could occur. Thx so much
Very good explanations but I have a question that seems very important to me, after all the turn of turning the regulator into a motor. How many revolutions and HP a hundred-amp regulator will it have? When converted to an engine. You can send me the ligatures diagram
did you do any performance or efficiency comparison between alternator and BLDC motors