Understanding Garden Phosphorous: What it Does, Chemical vs. Organic, Availability & pH: TRG 2014
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- Опубликовано: 14 ноя 2014
- Phosphorous is a macro-nutrient which means it is essential element for your garden vegetables. Phosphorous helps a plant grow, mature quickly, produce flowers and produce full size fruit. It is essential for plant growth. This video gives you the facts on phosphorous and talks about chemical forms of and organic forms of phosphorous. Enjoy!
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So glad I found this video. It’s been here the whole time that I needed it. Very, very clear. Nothing confusing about it.
Glad to share
Very informative video. I put a tbsp of bone meal in the hole I make for the transplant and then put the plant transplant right on top of the bone meal. I've seemed to have a lot more production in my small garden since adding that step.
Excellent videos... I am planting my first garden this spring. I am learning so much from your videos Gary... thanks for taking the time to explain them in such an easy format.. they will be my go to source when I am trying to remember something. thanks again
Thanks! Congrats on starting your first garden. Let me know if you have any questions and if you have a chance please spread the word of my channel.
Hi Gary, thank you so much for this video. It’s packed full of content and my brain is fried 🤯. I’ll have to watch this a few more times to unpack and take it all in.
Glad to help and you can learn over time
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Well done. Great info explained really well. Especially appreciate your sensical approach to gardening.
Thanks for watching.
great video,
Thank you for another very informative video. ❤️
Glad to help
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Great vid
thank you so much for this break down.
Glad to share
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Great explanation. Thank you so much!
Glad to share
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Thanks for the info!
GREAT VIDEO
So if my tomato plant has lots of leaves and thick stalks at the bottom, does that mean im probably good on phosphorus? It has started getting lots of flower clusters. My Ph meter says 7.5 after leaving it in the soil for 10 minutes. Should I add lime or what? PS-I come to you so much for learning. Thanks for helping everyone.
This is so informative i have been watching your videos time to time but now im going to subscribe to ur channel.
Thanks so much for subscribing. Very appreciated.
Check out my blog post for more details on Seed Starting Tomatoes Without Grow-Lights and conditions to be cautious of: www.therustedgarden.com/blogs/vegetable-gardening-tips-blog/how-to-grow-tomato-vegetable-transplants-without-grow-lights-principles-examples-planting
This is massively helpful. Thank you!
Very glad to help
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Mr G thanx .you told me everything i needed to know.
Thats my goal
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Excellent video!! You're the Greatest!!
Thanks
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So well explained. Thank you!
Glad to share.
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Very informative, thank you 🙏
Thanks
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@ Gary: This is EXTREMELY INFORMATIVE brother!!! Im studying this TONIGHT!!! ^_^
Quick question: I put blood meal in my garden today after doing a soil test I was low in nitrogen , but in the back of my garden my phosphorus levels are super low nothing is growing can I just use 10,10,10 to get it growing even after putting blood meal down? Hope I’m making sense I don’t want to over use something.
Very helpful. Thank you!
Glad to share
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Thank you
thank u so much
Nicely explained.
Thanks!
Very good video!!!
Thanks
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Great info thank you
Glad to share
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Thanks 🙏
Yep
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Thank you man❤❤
Glad to help.
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Hi there, your videos is such a learning tools and for that I hope you don't mind if I did post it in my blog specially the Vegetable Garden Fertilizers and Nutrients videos. Thank you as always.
Youre very welcome. Please post my information where you feel it can help other. I appreciate it.
What are these salt build ups? Is there anything that likes to eat these salts?
thank you
Yep
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Gary thanks for the good information. Can any of these fertilizers be broken down into water to make it more readily available? For instance making a tea?
I wouldn't make leaf contact with it. The product will tell you if it is leaf friendly. For just a tea and ground pouring, I think you can add it to water generally speaking. There is always a chance for chemical reactions if it sits in water for a long time. But generally speaking I dont think water would speed up the process for it to become readily available. Not any more than a good soaking of your garden soil.
Thank lots Sir...
Glad to share
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Thanks!
Yep'
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Its Gary with old school Gardening 101!! he ROCKS!!!! Great Video as USUAL my friend. And the website sells out FAST!!!! WOW!!!
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Hi, thank you for the info...my Arabian jasmine not growing ...after several time it gave me flowers...just 1 small stem.....inhome fertilizer can I make like tea, egg shell, banana ....
good luck
04:40 quick note... NPK ratios are Ratios that are parts of the total volume, not quantities in percentage of total volume I am not entirely sure if im right but that's the way I understood it. Too know the concentration check the npk information for example.....(3:1:5 (26)...... the ""26"" in that example which is a number in brackets which usually denotes the percentage of fertilizer contents of the pellets , powders or liquid. Thank you for the brilliant presentation
Thanks!
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Dear Gary -- Thanks for these videos! I have learned so much!
One question about phosphate -- have you tried using bat guano? How fast is the potassium available for the plant from it and/or any other tips and suggestions in using it?
I dont know about the bat quano. I have not used it. If it has been composted it would have NPK available for the plants. I would just see what the NPK rating is. If P is well represented then your plants should be fine. But a lot of time NPK are at low levels and you need continued compost.
You have green sand there also, but didn't mention it? Is there a reason?
Love your information!! Thank you!
No reason. Probably just omitted it.
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I set up my raised bed, there is
Top soil, manure, and peat moss.
Now I’ve noticed my tomato plants are all starting to be purple. My ph level is 7 but I will be retesting. I also added some bone meal. Now since you explain it takes time to develop as a nutrition for them , I need something right away. Will the triple phosphorus help for me?
No no you are good. I would just let it be and get a water soluble fertilizer like fish emulsion and give them a big drink every 2 weeks. You dont need anything else in the soil. Good luck
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happy frog bat guano best and only thing I need for my greens
That works.Please visit The Rusted Garden Seed and Garden Shop: www.therustedgarden.com
Great information thanks for sharing your knowledge
You were mentioning rock dust, as I heard earlier, can I use phosphate dust or phosphate dirt, I'm new in planting, because where I stay is a lot of phosphate, I'm from the south pacific island. I'm just asking if it's possible to use phosphate dust on my self Wicking tub.
I'm just asking instead of using phosphorus, while there a phosphate all around me thank you.
Ah I understand better. If it is a natural phosphorous yes. But I am not familiar with the product. You want to make sure the phosphorous is in a form the plants can use. And I dont know how concentrated the product you are talking about is.
Well done!! Keep up the good work. I've found your videos very informative. I do have a question. Is high phosphorous Bat Guano, (Peruvian, Indonesian, Jamaican) more readily available than bone meal? These have a P rating between 10 - 13.
I dont know. I dont have enough experience with BG. See if you can find what form it is in. That would help.
i mix amino acids 14-0-0, seaweed extract 0-0-13, and humic acid, if i soak rock phosphate in this, do you think it would organiclly synthesize some available phosphates? i am for all organic, i add compost tea often to break down my amendments quickly.
+Tee Mann I dont know how acidic your mix is but I dont think it would do that much. However you probably have some available phosphate in you mix just because Nature has gotten to it in some small way.
im sure i have plenty , as i have applied many time the last few seasons, i think i want to add lime and egg shells this year
as i already do epsome salt and humic acids as a bloom boosting folier feed
Thank you for the education very informative. Our Phosphorus 2.52 ppm should be 4-10 ppm. PH 4.20 ppm. What is the cheapest way to increase P for 20,000 sq. ft?
I dont know for sure. For 20,000 square feet you are going to want to buy in bulk. Good luck.
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hello gary......I just buy 10kg bag rock phosphorous ...but i buy it not for the phosphorous content in it..... the thing I need is the calcium content in rock phosphorous. ...the problem is my soil PH is below 7.....is it I must wait a YEAR ! for the calcium available to my plants..? thank you Gary. ..haha
+neoh kee weng You dont have to wait a full year. The soil life will start breaking it down and give up CA over time. If you are putting it in now, you should have plenty for next year. There is also free calcium in it. Just not a lot. If you dont have a calcium emergency right now... you are fine.
Very nice explanation Gary. I have to add that realistically you should never have to add phosphorus and potassium as an amendment. If you are adding organic material such as compost, manures, compost tea, cover crops, etc. This will add more than enough P and K to the soil. If you have to add these items, a light feeding is always the safe thing to do, rarely are the salt replacements necessary. This is essentially true for the macro nutrients as well,organic materials will add a sufficient amount of these elements. Nitrogen is added and removed freely by environmental processes and is by far the most freely moving and in need of outside replacement. I totally agree with your explanation of pH as this is usually the issue with elemental deficiencies, its not an issue with the elements not being there, it usually a problem of them of being available because of pH issues. I don't think this is ever explained well, thank you for doing this.
The only other comment I would make is when in doubt, get a soil test, adding 10-10-10 arbitrarily is rarely the answer and may be unnecessary. Just like I wouldn't want my doctor giving me a pill for something he thinks is wrong, I would rather have the objective data to show what is wrong and not guess. I understand the reason why you do not soil test yearly, but try it in one of your beds, this fall. I think you will be surprised at the findings and you may see that adding a lot of these elements may not be necessary. Thanks again, this has been a great series, I'm looking forward to the next installment.
You have good points. Over the last couple of years I have come to understand less is just as good. Compost really helps and lively soil really helps.
What I would add is that extremely heavy feeders like cukes, pumpkins, squashes always seem to need more in the way of NPK and micro nutrients for strong growth in my garden. That being said I have limited supply of compost and manure.
Gary Pilarchik I don't think I have ever heard anyone say "I have way too much compost, I wish I knew someone that would take it from me." If I did, I would call the paddy wagon for them. I have recently started cover cropping my beds over the last few years, and you wouldn't believe the difference it makes. Cover cropping has closed many gaps in my organic material needs. Buckwheat, clover and vetch planted at the right times can improve any soil significantly and decrease the need for many supplemental feedings.
@@David-fv7zg "planted at the right times" …. When is that? I’m in zone 5.
Help! My tomato seedling are turning purple and smaller leaves and branches are dying. It's a phosphorus deficiency and I have been using miracle grow on every other watering. Thanks for any advice
Well if you have been feeding its not a lack of anything... might be too much fertilizer. The issues look the same. How are you feeding them and how big are your plants.Please visit The Rusted Garden Seed and Garden Shop: www.therustedgarden.com
every other watering i am using miracle gro 24-8-16 at half strength. leaves were deep purple and lower branches started dropping off. these are seedling about seven weeks old. in six packs. last watering i wenet closer to full strength.
Idk if my tomatoe is auto flower(spring in SA but no reveg signs) or if it's just phosphorus lacking (no leaf signs)
Not sure how to help. Nowadays I use more compost than ever and less additions of any sort.
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Great video! Really helped me coming from the perspective of trying to go 100% organic, and having a hard time troubleshooting deficiencies. I really appreciated your level-headed approach to knowing when to use what kind of fertilizer. It seemed like planning ahead organic ferts are pretty much always better, but chemical fertilizers have place especially in a triage situation. I was really reluctant to use some water soluable ferts that I had on hand that I use in hydroponics because I didnt want to kill off my outdoor biology.
Im glad it helped. Soil biology does fine if you use it all wisely. I don't want people to think instant destruction with chemical ferts. Over use probably. Sensible use, is just fine.
Hey Gary, is it phosphorus or potassium that root veggies like potatoes, carrots, radishes etc. need?
Coca Cola has a lot of phosphoric acid in it. Maybe there are benefits to mixing that into your liquid fertilizer?
Yeah general speaking more of that. Interesting on the coke. It might be true but I don't know.
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Phosphoric acid mildly etches glass and Coke will clean windshields when nothing else will.
Rinse after with distilled or reverse osmosis water if you have water with lots of minerals in it.
What phosphorus can I use that’s ready for the plant immediately?
Has to be in any water soluble form. So if it is mixed in water it is there.
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i'm planning to grow honeydew ,it grows many leaves and female flower but not set fruit ,whats problem? did eggshell and coffee grounds have Phosphorous? i'm live Malaysian ,give me advise.....
+chong levin I dont think they have high amounts of phosphorous but do once composted down.
I have Jalepeno pepper plant, the veins are yellow but the leaves are green...what does that mean?
TheCrashcrewmarine It is a nutritional issue. I would feed it a liquid fertilizer. See if that helps.You can also try some Epsom salt. This way you cover nutritional issues.
Thanks for all you valuable research/information, I have a few questions:
1) Would like to confirm the "availability" of "Bone-Meal" Phosphorous on
this particular brand: "Pro-Pell-it". This organic "Bone-Meal"
brand does say "Available Phosphate (P2O5)"
on the bag; are we good to go? Is this
one readily available within days or a week?
2) On the chemical phosphate fertilizer bag in your
video, you have written "1 teaspoon per foot." Is this 1 teaspoon per
square foot of surface area? And is it taking into account your "conservative
1/2 the amount"?
2a) If other brand chemical fertilizers say 0-45-0, can I
use those 1 teaspoon ratio instructions? When I buy them from farm/ag suppliers,
there is an incredible $$ savings (a 50lb bag is only around $15-$20 ) but there
are no instruction on the bag!?
3) Soil Test Kits: By-the-way, I don't mind taking it to
this next level, I enjoy that process too and it's good to know what your soil
actually needs, to avoid over-fertilizing. But I have not found that "great" test kit yet, especially
that goes beyond the color charts and perhaps test more that the basic (N-P-K-Ph),
** What would you recommend? **
Soluble usually means immediately available. Available means will be and that takes the soil biology to break it down. So a little is release to the plant weekly. If the plant isn't in immediate need of phosphate, you are fine. There should be some in the ground.Always per square foot from my understanding. Fertilizing is all over the place. The 1/2 or 1/3 amount is typically for water solubles like NPK of 24-12-12, I try and target getting it down to a 5-5-5. Bone meal you could use 1/2 if you want but as a slow release your are fine following the package.0-45-0 and any package should have their own instructions. So follow that. It really varies. I don't use that typically but 45 is just not needed for vegetables. Sometimes a smaller package of triple phosphate has instructions. Look up triple phosphate on the web and you should find measures.A soil test when you first start is great as you want to know what you are starting with. But if you have been adding to the ground and beds over time, you usually have different ratios going. On. An initial test is great. Mail out soil samples to your local testing agencies. Search for one local on the web. Best analysis that way.
Great Thanks, one last question:
Can you expound more on the term & benefits of "Triple" as in
"Triple Phosphate" (chemical 0-45-0 product shown) and what we can expect from these kind of products
And do you feel like doing an experiment: The Compost-Tea advocates recommend powdered rock-dust as part of their ingredients. The theory is that the heavily oxygenated water (with the proper PH) accelerates the brake-down period and making nutrients readily with 24
hours; a simple water test will reveal if the Phosphorous is present; if it
shows up, this means it should be available!
Triple is in the production I believe but bottom line is the high amount of P 45. I am not on board with compost teas. They don't hurt but they can only be a sum of what you put in them. You cant make more N P or K but as you said you can accelerate breakdown and availability. Rock Dust is something I don't use. If you are lacking P it is good. If you soil had it to begin with and you mulch and add compost, the RD is just extra.
I was told my 1200 sq foot vegetable garden with soil ph of 7 needs 15 total lbs 18-46-0 . I was told to use fertilizer called DAP. Is this a good idea? Is there a better organic alternative ?
I am not familiar with DAP. I wish I could be more helpful.
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Do you know of a better organic alternative that could match a 18-46-0 NPK profile?
Does Wood Ash from my PELLET STOVE provide Phosphorous to my plants?
It wood. You just want to make sure there are no binders or fillers. Many pellets are compressed hardwood.
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hi hi Gary ....do rock phosphate well raise the PH level ?
+neoh kee weng I dont know what else is in rock phosphate. If it has carbonate in it - it will.
+Gary Pilarchik (The Rusted Garden) hi hi Gary thank you for reply .... I not sure the calcium in carbonate or not ...the rock phosphate I buy is (Christmas island rock phosphate) (CIRP)
Typical Analysis
phosphate (P2O5) :30.00%
2% citric acid solubility : 5 -6%
Moisture Max :4.00%
Calcium as CaO :35.00%
SiO2 :0.35%
MgO :0.50%
Fluorine :Max 1.50%
Cadmium :Max 40.00 ppm
Density :1.38 t/cu. m
State :Powder
Size Grading (Bulk unground ) :30% passing through mesh 30
Size Grading (Bulk after grinding ) :81% passing through mesh 30
colour: brown
origin :Australia
I put granual fertiliser in buckets of water and wait two days for most of it to dissolve. I can't damage the roots by digging it into the soil.Would it work like quick or will it still be a slow release fertiliser? The plants are starting to bud and I put cow manure and mushroom compost on the top soil for extra nutrients. I didn't have a bathroom for a month and wee in a bucket and watered it down 1-8. Also taking multi vitamin pill daily. They never looked so good. Very lushes and healthy. I had no idea it could take so long with some types.It was satisfying turns Ng waste into something useful and environmentally friendly . 💥💥💥
That works!
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What happens if I put bone meal or rock phosphate into a vinegar solution?
Well it will react. I can say exactly but it might free up nutrients.
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Is Gardentone good for vegetables???
Its a good product
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man, you're my homie Gary
Scarecrow Grows Excellent!
The problem is that most phosphates are insoluble in water unless you are using alkali metal salts, and so getting the plants the nutrients are difficult. Are you going to go over the trace elements such as zinc, copper, manganese, Iron, boron, Molybdenum as these are important if you want a decent crop.
The easiest way to remember what you have been talking about is this. If you want more leaves such as lettuce and cabbages use a fertiliser which is higher in Nitrogen than the other two ( Nitrogen for shoots)
If you want a healthy root crop than use a product higher in phosphorus than the other two (phosphorus for roots).
If you want a plant with plenty of fruit use a product high in potassium than the other two (Potassium for fruits). It is easier to remember that way.
One thing in America which I don't understand is that you can buy bone meal on its own, you can buy blood meal on its own and you can buy fish emulsion on its own and yet you cannot buy all three combined, which is widely sold in the UK, as a general 7-7-7 fertiliser. Go figure.
Good morning, I will be going over the micro nutrients too. They are over looked a lot. Next on the list are the 2nd line of macro's Ca Mg and S. But micro will get there.
The thing in America is you have to looked hard at the labels. Some of the organic products have the mix you talk about but not at 7-7-7 which is a great ratio. Sadly though organic stuff is priced higher and you can make more money by selling blood meal, bone meal, and fish emulsion individually.
How about ammonium phosphate, it is 16-20-0
It will work. It is pretty high so you can use less in the garden.
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What is your opinion of Azomite rock powder?
It is fine for micro nutrients. Most soils have a lot of what the rock powders add. It certainly wont hurt but I am not sure it really adds that much.
Azomite will probably increase your plants' needs for all three fertilizer components, although I'm not sure of the ratios, except that potassium seems be the first thing you'll want extra of. So, unless fertility is already high, you might want to fertilize, too. Rockdust by itself may be helpful for acidic soils, and soils with few minerals, however. Rockdust tends to be high in calcium, and it seems calcium and nitrogen need to be balanced. Calcium also increases PH and this reduces phosphorus and manganese availability. So, using peat moss with your Azomite may help phosphorus to be more available, if your soil isn't acidic enough. Peat moss is acidic (with a PH of about 4.0).
My experience is with basalt rockdust, but the nutrient profile isn't that much different than Azomite's.
I don't know why rockdust increases the need for potassium, however. The only reason I know this is because it's caused potassium deficiency symptoms (adding potassium sulfate removed these symptoms).
Muskmelons and cantaloupes seem to love rockdust our soil, though (with extra potassium added). It really helps the fruit appearance and quality
That was university level info.
Glad to help.
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All the available forms of phosphorous are natural for those who dont know none of them are synthetic. Triple Super Phosphate was the first commercially used phosphorous fertilizer and comes from ground up natural phosphrous deposits its prilled (pelleted) to be spread in a spreader or etc easily.
I use Triple super phosphate in my vineyard or MAP
Thanks
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How about just using fish emulsion?
That has 1% phosphorous. If that is all you need that works.
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@@THERUSTEDGARDEN it seems to bring life back to a plant. I use it if I see the plants acting SAD KINDA DROOPING NOT SO PERKY. I also use other stuff but I just wanted to ask! Thanks!
Can we please have the written format of these video pretty please 🙏 if not then i will have write everything down 🤷🏻♀️
Hi Gary, great video! But I noticed you used "to" instead of "too" and I advise you fix that error on future videos.
Examples:
That rock is too big; That soup is too hot; The wind is too calm.
As opposed to:
I want to give this to you; to Mark; to infinity and beyond.
Regards, David
Thanks I do that a lot. Not out of not knowing but out of missing it in the edit.
viewer 26,172
everything made sense until you said rock dust haha LOL
How can bone meal be organic? that's like saying a vegan burger with bacon n cheese.
I agree. The commercial market came up with organic term really. Bottom line is organic gardening is using locally sourced products. Bone meal is considered organic because it is not processed into a form but a natural.
How isn’t it organic?