I’ve done half a dozen 61/62 faults in the last couple of years and every time it’s been the board. If you listen to vailant they’ll tell you it could be about a gazillion different things, in my experience, it’s the board. Great when they are running but I feel the trouble with vailants is they just can’t help trying to be too clever. Too clever means unnecessarily complex, and that means more to go wrong. For boilers, especially combis. Simple is best. I’ve never met a customer yet who gives a monkeys that their boiler has seventeen different levels of installer parameters. They want hot water and heating. End of. Another great video by the way. Big up us service and repair guys. Overlooked by installers till they can’t get one to work. VAILANT “did you know if you input this nineteen digit button press, then you can get the circulation pump to play the tune from close encounters on every fourth Tuesday of a leap year. How useful is that”
Many thanks to HeatingGeek and MER MER. I replaced all five caps on my PCB which fixed my F61 fault. Capacitors ordered and replaced in two days - quicker time than a CH engineer could visit! Boiler working fine for over a week now. FYI - I suggest using Panasonic EEUFM1V471 to replace the 470uF caps as these have a high ripple current like the originals on the PCB.
@Chew Chew... You dear fellow should be listened to more often. Thanks @HeatingGeek for putting this vid up as I would never of found the tip by Chew Chew. For the sake of a soldering iron and £3 for five capacitors as stated above, I took it upon myself to swap out the two capacitors on the PCB and voila! No more problem. Thanks to both of you again.
Thanks for the hints guys. Replaced one 470 capacitor and no change. Replaced all 5, cleaned the high voltage contacts and the grounding. works perfect. The capacitors had no signs of failure visually. Probably the grounding had to be checked first.
Cheers. I was watching this when my landlords gas engineer rang back, instructed me to turn the boiler on again and to press the top left button. Boiler worked again but temp started jumping around, he also confirmed it was a faulty circuit board.
The NTC’s are resistors ( Negative Temperature Coefficient ) the failure of the capacitors on the board cause a lack of smooth current therefore cause wrong resistance readings, F61/F62 is normally always a main board fault
F61 and F62, always pcb and gas valve. 40 min job. Fasted £450 you'll make. Customer will have peace of mind and you won't get mithered to return to the boiler later on when it starts playing up again. Don't dozens of them.
Great vid. Really helped me out today to get a young family's heat and water on again. Although with a new PCB the boiler is now working, the temperature is still jumping around as shown in your vid. But no fault code any more. Any ideas gratefully received.
Thanks for the video. I had f75 on an ecotec plus where the pump was goosed. Changed the pump and then got an f62 fault code. Not intermittent though. Every time it tries to spark and goes into lockout giving f62. Vailliant say to do a drop test on the gas valve for 4 minutes. If 1mb drop or more it's the valve, if not it's the pcb. Still confused why it is sparking but not lighting or any presence of flame?
Just a update new board fitted all working good no more F61! Easy job just warm plastic tabs up with hair dryer or heat gun to prevent breakage! Also get gas safe engineer to check all ok! Dsn wasnt needed to be set all parameters was the same!
Most times you could well be right the low voltage failings on the pcb, but to be sure a test of the gas valve SHOULD be done to establish the gas valve is NOT at fault! Best to get your Gas Safe engineer out to fault find!!
i just been to look at one of these, yaaay temperature keeps jumping from what it is to what i set it at as if someone keeps touching the nob , very intermitant f61 tho like once a week..... weird
hi mate I've ch aged the pcb on a eco tech plus 2007 and it all seems fine but the heating won't start and I've checked the wiring of the rf stat into pcb but it's still not working am I missing something or is it a secondary issue maybe ? thanks mate
Hi, Thank you for all this - very helpful . I now have an F61 code but a week ago had the diverter valve with adaptor renewed, 4 months ago a filling loop and faulty room thermostat , 6 months ago the expansion vessel was drained , re pressurised and auto air vent tightened. Do you reckon, in your experience, the boiler may be worth fixing with the PCB now suggested by the Gas Service Co I use, do you reckon I could get a couple more years out of it ? or does all this add up to "don't waste any more money get a new boiler" ! would appreciate you views many thanks.
Unfortunately the person to ask it the engineer who has been working on it. They will have the best idea on the lifespan. If the rest of the boiler is sound then why not? Sounds like, filling loop, vessel and AAV could of been related fault. Diverter is almost a service item. A room stat isn't the boiler. Just a bad 12 months? How much money has the boiler cost you in its lifespan?
@@HeatingGeek Thankyou - nothing apart from servicing once a year - so, yes, perhaps just a bad few months all at once; we've decided to go ahead and have the PCB , fingers crossed it will do the job for another few years before we have to make a large outlay. Thank you for your time :)
Hi, would a dodgy earth connection cause this issue? Rusty inside case, old diverter leak fixed a few years ago has left the inner case crusty but dry now☹
*I have an issue* When I turn the bath/shower faucet on the maximum TEMPERATURE and POWER, the hot water runs for several seconds, but then begins to lose its temp to about 35degrees, which is relatively cold. Now when I reduce the power on the tap and keep the valve turned left (max hot), the temperature of the water rises to what it should be. Now I do not have this problem in the kitchen and bathroom sinks. They run hot water on max power no problem. What could this be? On the boiler the water setting is turned to 65 degrees which should be more than enough...
I have this issue and a new PCB to fit. Can you advise how easy this is to fit for a novice? I am in computers and have fitted many motherboards etc but nothing with boilers. Is it a straight like for like swap, or does it require checking earth, testing live wires with screwdriver etc (I saw another vid where a guy did this first). My plumber wants £100 for 5 mins work so am tempted to do this 5 min job myself. Can you advise please, thanks!
@HeatingGeek Hello, I have had the F.62 code twice in a four day interval on a EcoTec Plus 428 (12 years old). I'm not getting the fluctuating temp display or always on blue display illumination. None of the caps are swollen. ...... would you still lean towards the PCB rather than the Dungs gas valve? Many thanks, Craig.
Hi, I would check the gas valve isn't passing and then fit a PCB. If i couldn't check the gas valve I would replace the PCB. I hope that helps. Where are you based?
@@fixitfallows I cant comment on refurb boards on a public forum but other people have said they work. Please let me know how it works out for you. :-)
0:16 when you say turn it on for heating, do you just mean turn it off and turn it on, or do you mean especially for the heating (house heaters) function pls? Sorry for silly question
Hi mate My boiler is starting to show this code especially over night with no use! Today put heating on and display was sporadic 34 to 54! New board need to be programmed pls
@@pauldorkins5530 Plug and play. DSN might not even be needed. Depends if F70 comes up. However to replace this part the boiler needs to be opened and 26.9 gas safety checks need to be done..... So you should get an engineer to do the work.
@@HeatingGeek HI, Just checking. If i'm just changing the PCB for an F61 fault, does this need a '26.9 gas safety check' or can i just switch out the PCB? I'm OK with electrics but no gas experience.
Hi, I’ve change a pcb today due to the f62, just a question on the new pcb, it fits lots of other boiler and the non sensible booklet that accompanied the pcb makes no sense to me. Do you have to go into the software and set it up for each particular boiler or is it plug and play ? Many thanks, great videos.
Mine shows F64 off and on is pcb on It's way out please? Someone said could be thermistors but this wouldn't blow fuse on spur would it which is what happened.
old thread i know.....your right there about booklets.lol. They show Ikea style pictures then page after page of foreign info, then my boiler model the part numbers dont match...lol. happy i never got f73
Hi there, I'm trying to understand what you meant by the blue panel lighting up even if you're not calling any hot water - I've started getting the F.62 code on my EcoTec Plus 824 Vaillant boiler. At first I just reset the boiler and everything was fine for about a month. Then randomly today it happened again though nothing was on. I've not had any problems at all with my hot water - taps and shower do fine. I did notice however sometimes the blue panel lit up randomly, and there are temperature fluctuations though I don't know if they're irregular- it seems to stay stable at 52 except it goes up obviously when I turn the hot water on. What does it mean if the panel lights up? Should it be "grey" the whole time it's not in use?
The panel lights up (for no reason) when the low voltage side of the PCB has unstable voltage on it. Because the voltage fluctuates when it shouldn't the PCB thinks someone turned the knobs on the front or pressed a button. You boiler will need a PCB soon.
@@HeatingGeek Thank you, that's what I was thinking. I've asked for quotes and some gas engineers said it's definitely a gas valve issue and I'll need a new one, versus others said it was the PCB. How can I know for sure? Also, how long an I expect the new PCB to last? Thanks again.
@@amm6569 I have worked for Vaillant and with Vaillant Ecotecs for 15 years. (they came out in 2004). It is always the PCB. If someone is telling you its the gas valve they are not experienced with this fault. Why would a gas valve cause the blue back light to come on???? Trust me the gas valve is fine.
@@HeatingGeek Thank you for your help. I really hope it's just the PCB (and it sounds like it is, as if it was the gas valve I probably wouldn't get consistent hot water still and there's no other reason the panel would randomly light up blue now and again). How long do PCB's generally last?
Great vid, helped me loads. My light is on without touching and the temp is up and down like a yo-yo. Getting f62. My boiler was manufactured in 09' not sure its install. Definately over 8yrs tho. Would you replace the pcb or go for a new boiler?
Exactly what I saw on my Ecotec 624. Failed to start in mornings showing F61. Could be got going with resets or full power diagnostic test and then OK all day. Fixed with new PCB.
Hi great video, my vaillant ecotec has a similar issue with the F62 comes on now and again, my question is my temp readout that you watched jumps when you fire the heating up like on your video but once it's been running it seems to stay put at 52c, would that still be a indication of pcb? Many thanks
@@HeatingGeek thank you very much for your help, would a gas engineer know that this would be the fault, don't really wanna tell them to suck eggs if you know what I mean, but I'm sure I can say I've done some research and this is it?
Often only the two capacitors on the board are broken. Oft sind nur die beiden Kondensatoren auf der Steuerungsplatine defekt. Nach einem Wechsel geht die Heizung wieder.
I just fixed mine by changing all 5 electrolytic capacitors on the PCB. Had periodic f62 and flickering vrc430 display backlight, and display on boiler doing as you showed. With age they go out of spec as they dry out internaly. Not sure which were the culprit, but with the board out made sense to change them all.
2 X 470uF 35V 105 degree 2X 10uF 63V 85 degree 1X 100uF 400V Having now checked them with a meter off board one of the 470uf ones was very dead. The 470uf pair are the low voltage power supply smoothing capacitors.
@@HeatingGeek mine is showing F64 mate had no hot water all day yesterday got back from work last night and pressed the lock out button and it's working fine now though in my experience it will show again soon thanks for this video clip it's brilliant mate
@@HeatingGeek the fault codes dissapered now mate after pressing lockout button last night I have a feeling it will show again though don't you, there is a elecrical gremlin somewhere in boiler looks like thanks for reply
This isn't for DIY. I don't tell people how to vent rads or fit boilers. Most people won't try and fix a boiler. I don't fix my van or roof my garage or tile my bathroom. I can do it, I just don't. People who will fix stuff will always fix stuff. Cant stop it. I run 2 businesses, pay all the BS you do for both and don't think this will make 1 little bit of difference to the gas industry. I have asked for people like you (who don't like it) to set up a site and host all these videos for free and give access to all GSR engineers.... No one will do it. Not even gas safe. Sorry for giving away a few little tips to new engineers and apprentices. Cant please everyone.
17 yrs in the game and still everyday is a school day, keep em coming mate 👍
Some people don't like me doing this>>>
HeatingGeek your always gonna get haters mate, I’ve learn so many new little tips from your vids so bollocks to everyone else 👌
@@alanmurphy3584 Thanks. :-)
@@HeatingGeek I love that you do this. Just showing a tiny bit of knowledge often results in a better service from engineers.
I’ve done half a dozen 61/62 faults in the last couple of years and every time it’s been the board. If you listen to vailant they’ll tell you it could be about a gazillion different things, in my experience, it’s the board. Great when they are running but I feel the trouble with vailants is they just can’t help trying to be too clever. Too clever means unnecessarily complex, and that means more to go wrong. For boilers, especially combis. Simple is best. I’ve never met a customer yet who gives a monkeys that their boiler has seventeen different levels of installer parameters. They want hot water and heating. End of. Another great video by the way. Big up us service and repair guys. Overlooked by installers till they can’t get one to work.
VAILANT “did you know if you input this nineteen digit button press, then you can get the circulation pump to play the tune from close encounters on every fourth Tuesday of a leap year. How useful is that”
:-) you speak the truth. The complexity of the very new ones can really cause issues on older systems. You have to set all the smart stuff off. :-)
I would even settle for hot water always said central heating is for women lol
Thanks for this video. My boiler is about 11 years old. I replaced two 470uF / 35V capacitors and now it works again without any problems.
Many thanks to HeatingGeek and MER MER.
I replaced all five caps on my PCB which fixed my F61 fault. Capacitors ordered and replaced in two days - quicker time than a CH engineer could visit! Boiler working fine for over a week now.
FYI - I suggest using Panasonic EEUFM1V471 to replace the 470uF caps as these have a high ripple current like the originals on the PCB.
Nice one. :-) Well done.
@Chew Chew... You dear fellow should be listened to more often. Thanks @HeatingGeek for putting this vid up as I would never of found the tip by Chew Chew. For the sake of a soldering iron and £3 for five capacitors as stated above, I took it upon myself to swap out the two capacitors on the PCB and voila! No more problem. Thanks to both of you again.
@@thebigpicture9498 hangi kapasitorler acaba yardımcı olurmusunuz
Thanks for the hints guys. Replaced one 470 capacitor and no change. Replaced all 5, cleaned the high voltage contacts and the grounding. works perfect. The capacitors had no signs of failure visually. Probably the grounding had to be checked first.
Cheers. I was watching this when my landlords gas engineer rang back, instructed me to turn the boiler on again and to press the top left button. Boiler worked again but temp started jumping around, he also confirmed it was a faulty circuit board.
Always been pcb for me from an ex vaillant engineer, but great tip, many thanks.
I'm x Vaillant too. :-)
Sorry, I’m not ex vaillant, I watched an ex vaillant engineer video 🤫
The NTC’s are resistors ( Negative Temperature Coefficient ) the failure of the capacitors on the board cause a lack of smooth current therefore cause wrong resistance readings, F61/F62 is normally always a main board fault
F61 and F62, always pcb and gas valve. 40 min job. Fasted £450 you'll make. Customer will have peace of mind and you won't get mithered to return to the boiler later on when it starts playing up again. Don't dozens of them.
Are necessary not thermistors
Nice video, I replaced the 4 electrolytic capacitors on the board and solved f.61
@@alessioesposito2304 Which capacitors can you help?
Changed a Pcb today for this very issue.
It worked......I hope.
HeatingGeek sure did mate
How much did it cost the PCB and installation separately? Many thanks in advance
Bang on, i've had this fault twice
Great vid. Really helped me out today to get a young family's heat and water on again. Although with a new PCB the boiler is now working, the temperature is still jumping around as shown in your vid. But no fault code any more. Any ideas gratefully received.
The engineer should be able to work out what is causing it. :-)
Have an F62 tomorrow. Thank you
Thanks for watching. :-)
Thank you. Exactly the problem I’m having.
Thats why I make the videos!!! If you haven't seen the issue you won't know.
Hope it helped. :-)
Ecotec pro version, red light coming on, checked the history log and f62. I will try out your method. Vaillant also said its likely to be PCB. Cheers
Thank you wish my plumber watched this will tell him what is wrong and what to look for 😂
That's why I put them up here. If you haven't had the problem before you get miss lead by the instructions
Thanks for the video. I had f75 on an ecotec plus where the pump was goosed. Changed the pump and then got an f62 fault code. Not intermittent though. Every time it tries to spark and goes into lockout giving f62. Vailliant say to do a drop test on the gas valve for 4 minutes. If 1mb drop or more it's the valve, if not it's the pcb. Still confused why it is sparking but not lighting or any presence of flame?
Sorry I didn’t respond to this comment. I didn’t see it in my feed. :-(
Just a update new board fitted all working good no more F61! Easy job just warm plastic tabs up with hair dryer or heat gun to prevent breakage!
Also get gas safe engineer to check all ok!
Dsn wasnt needed to be set all parameters was the same!
Nice one. :-)
@@maximmaxim4337 hi I bought it of ebay from a plumbing supplies latest revision £80 posted and it was sealed! :-))
Hi no blue screen or numbers changing would this still be pcb or would it point to the gas valve
I’ve recently had this problem on a job, definitely gold dust!!!!!
I'm glad you agree. :-) Others are now using these tips and giving the impression they found it. :-) 2 years later....... Thanks for watching.
I've got this now! f .61
Most times you could well be right the low voltage failings on the pcb, but to be sure a test of the gas valve SHOULD be done to establish the gas valve is NOT at fault! Best to get your Gas Safe engineer out to fault find!!
When the PcB is changed what steps are needed to reconfigure new one?
Many thanks for this vlog
i just been to look at one of these, yaaay temperature keeps jumping from what it is to what i set it at as if someone keeps touching the nob , very intermitant f61 tho like once a week..... weird
hi mate I've ch aged the pcb on a eco tech plus 2007 and it all seems fine but the heating won't start and I've checked the wiring of the rf stat into pcb but it's still not working am I missing something or is it a secondary issue maybe ? thanks mate
I normally check the harness on the gas valve and on the pcb bus 7 & 8 the dc volts start to drop immediately
Yep. :-)
Hi,
Thank you for all this - very helpful .
I now have an F61 code but a week ago had the diverter valve with adaptor renewed, 4 months ago a filling loop and faulty room thermostat , 6 months ago the expansion vessel was drained , re pressurised and auto air vent tightened. Do you reckon, in your experience, the boiler may be worth fixing with the PCB now suggested by the Gas Service Co I use, do you reckon I could get a couple more years out of it ? or does all this add up to "don't waste any more money get a new boiler" ! would appreciate you views many thanks.
Unfortunately the person to ask it the engineer who has been working on it. They will have the best idea on the lifespan. If the rest of the boiler is sound then why not? Sounds like, filling loop, vessel and AAV could of been related fault. Diverter is almost a service item. A room stat isn't the boiler. Just a bad 12 months? How much money has the boiler cost you in its lifespan?
@@HeatingGeek Thankyou - nothing apart from servicing once a year - so, yes, perhaps just a bad few months all at once; we've decided to go ahead and have the PCB , fingers crossed it will do the job for another few years before we have to make a large outlay. Thank you for your time :)
@@catherinesullivan7300 No problem. Hopefully it will be ok for a few years. :-)
Hi, would a dodgy earth connection cause this issue? Rusty inside case, old diverter leak fixed a few years ago has left the inner case crusty but dry now☹
Only if the earth coming into the boiler on the PCB was bad. I have unpluged the earths and the boiler still works. :-)
I have this boiler no fault codes water works but heating doesn't and changed thermostat and pressure valve could it be the circuit board
Press the i button and see what it says when the heating is meant to be on. :-)
*I have an issue* When I turn the bath/shower faucet on the maximum TEMPERATURE and POWER, the hot water runs for several seconds, but then begins to lose its temp to about 35degrees, which is relatively cold. Now when I reduce the power on the tap and keep the valve turned left (max hot), the temperature of the water rises to what it should be. Now I do not have this problem in the kitchen and bathroom sinks. They run hot water on max power no problem. What could this be?
On the boiler the water setting is turned to 65 degrees which should be more than enough...
What power is your boiler? How fast are you running your tap?
I have this issue and a new PCB to fit. Can you advise how easy this is to fit for a novice? I am in computers and have fitted many motherboards etc but nothing with boilers. Is it a straight like for like swap, or does it require checking earth, testing live wires with screwdriver etc (I saw another vid where a guy did this first). My plumber wants £100 for 5 mins work so am tempted to do this 5 min job myself. Can you advise please, thanks!
Sorry I didn’t respond to this comment. I didn’t see it in my feed. :-(
Great video
Thanks!
I have same this problem last 6 months ago. And again still same
Is the display temperature jumping around?
Hi mate, Is there a way of checking gas valve on F61 fault? Cheers jamie
multimeter on ohms test between the block of the gas valve and the outer 2 pins. Should be OL
Nice one mate
Can this be problem with capacitors on pcb
@HeatingGeek Hello, I have had the F.62 code twice in a four day interval on a EcoTec Plus 428 (12 years old).
I'm not getting the fluctuating temp display or always on blue display illumination.
None of the caps are swollen.
...... would you still lean towards the PCB rather than the Dungs gas valve?
Many thanks, Craig.
Hi, I would check the gas valve isn't passing and then fit a PCB. If i couldn't check the gas valve I would replace the PCB. I hope that helps. Where are you based?
We can come out and have a look for you. I would guess the PCB though. ;-)
@@fixitfallows I cant comment on refurb boards on a public forum but other people have said they work. Please let me know how it works out for you. :-)
@@HeatingGeek Thank you. I may phone you guys tomorrow 👍🏼
0:16 when you say turn it on for heating, do you just mean turn it off and turn it on, or do you mean especially for the heating (house heaters) function pls? Sorry for silly question
Just put the heating on so the heaters come on.
how do I actually fix it myself?
Hi mate
My boiler is starting to show this code especially over night with no use! Today put heating on and display was sporadic 34 to 54!
New board need to be programmed pls
Fitted not programmed. :-)
So the new pcb is plug and play just set dsn to 8 for my 837 in 2nd diagnostic level? No other programming required then?
Thanks for reply! :-))
@@pauldorkins5530 Plug and play. DSN might not even be needed. Depends if F70 comes up. However to replace this part the boiler needs to be opened and 26.9 gas safety checks need to be done..... So you should get an engineer to do the work.
@@HeatingGeek HI, Just checking. If i'm just changing the PCB for an F61 fault, does this need a '26.9 gas safety check' or can i just switch out the PCB? I'm OK with electrics but no gas experience.
@@skymonkey74 To replace the PCB you need to open the case of the boiler. This means 26.9 safety checks need to be done.
Hi, I’ve change a pcb today due to the f62, just a question on the new pcb, it fits lots of other boiler and the non sensible booklet that accompanied the pcb makes no sense to me. Do you have to go into the software and set it up for each particular boiler or is it plug and play ? Many thanks, great videos.
Its plug and play unless you get F73. Then you have to set the DSN to the correct boiler.
Mine shows F64 off and on is pcb on It's way out please? Someone said could be thermistors but this wouldn't blow fuse on spur would it which is what happened.
@@HeatingGeek please give your opinion mate on my post ASAP thanks
You must be gas safe!!!!!
old thread i know.....your right there about booklets.lol. They show Ikea style pictures then page after page of foreign info, then my boiler model the part numbers dont match...lol. happy i never got f73
Great video buddy ...thanks
No problem 👍
@@HeatingGeek do one on multi meters mate i would love it not my strong point buddy
@@dazdavison1 I will eventually. :-)
@@dazdavison1 Soon. :-)
@UC4IYE1qVG3UZ1Izg4OZ7oFw Yes. Test the thermal fuse though. See the "it nearly beat me video" for why. :-)
ruclips.net/video/gAJGia5qN8s/видео.html
Hi there, I'm trying to understand what you meant by the blue panel lighting up even if you're not calling any hot water - I've started getting the F.62 code on my EcoTec Plus 824 Vaillant boiler. At first I just reset the boiler and everything was fine for about a month. Then randomly today it happened again though nothing was on. I've not had any problems at all with my hot water - taps and shower do fine. I did notice however sometimes the blue panel lit up randomly, and there are temperature fluctuations though I don't know if they're irregular- it seems to stay stable at 52 except it goes up obviously when I turn the hot water on. What does it mean if the panel lights up? Should it be "grey" the whole time it's not in use?
The panel lights up (for no reason) when the low voltage side of the PCB has unstable voltage on it. Because the voltage fluctuates when it shouldn't the PCB thinks someone turned the knobs on the front or pressed a button. You boiler will need a PCB soon.
@@HeatingGeek Thank you, that's what I was thinking. I've asked for quotes and some gas engineers said it's definitely a gas valve issue and I'll need a new one, versus others said it was the PCB. How can I know for sure? Also, how long an I expect the new PCB to last? Thanks again.
@@amm6569 I have worked for Vaillant and with Vaillant Ecotecs for 15 years. (they came out in 2004). It is always the PCB. If someone is telling you its the gas valve they are not experienced with this fault.
Why would a gas valve cause the blue back light to come on???? Trust me the gas valve is fine.
@@HeatingGeek Thank you for your help. I really hope it's just the PCB (and it sounds like it is, as if it was the gas valve I probably wouldn't get consistent hot water still and there's no other reason the panel would randomly light up blue now and again). How long do PCB's generally last?
@@amm6569 Mine is 11 years old in my boiler. They don't fail very often tbh
Hi, anyone have the list of capacitors needed to fix this, thanks.
Great vid, helped me loads. My light is on without touching and the temp is up and down like a yo-yo. Getting f62.
My boiler was manufactured in 09' not sure its install. Definately over 8yrs tho.
Would you replace the pcb or go for a new boiler?
How is the rest of the boiler? If it ok then I would get a PCB fitted. :-) Could get another 5 years out of it.
@@HeatingGeek yeah thought that. But also now getting f75 now too. Not sure if its the same problem or a multiple fault.
@@Marc.Vanguard I have had f75 because of the PCB too. It's a risk you may have to take. :-)
Thanks
Exactly what I saw on my Ecotec 624. Failed to start in mornings showing F61. Could be got going with resets or full power diagnostic test and then OK all day. Fixed with new PCB.
Yep always the same.
where do I get a new PCB pls?
I didn' see your post. Sorry. I'm sure you have sorted it by now.
Dry solder , it needs re soldering.
No its not.
Hi great video, my vaillant ecotec has a similar issue with the F62 comes on now and again, my question is my temp readout that you watched jumps when you fire the heating up like on your video but once it's been running it seems to stay put at 52c, would that still be a indication of pcb? Many thanks
PCB. All day every day. Doesn't matter if it settles once running. Get one and put it next to the boiler for when it fails. :-)
@@HeatingGeek thank you very much for your help, would a gas engineer know that this would be the fault, don't really wanna tell them to suck eggs if you know what I mean, but I'm sure I can say I've done some research and this is it?
They should do.Most will
@@HeatingGeek what is pcb?
@@sickoflies2050 A part of the boiler. If you have this issue give your local Gas Engineer a call. :-)
That’s what I said!!!
Often only the two capacitors on the board are broken.
Oft sind nur die beiden Kondensatoren auf der Steuerungsplatine defekt.
Nach einem Wechsel geht die Heizung wieder.
Which 2? Share!!!
I just fixed mine by changing all 5 electrolytic capacitors on the PCB. Had periodic f62 and flickering vrc430 display backlight, and display on boiler doing as you showed. With age they go out of spec as they dry out internaly. Not sure which were the culprit, but with the board out made sense to change them all.
2 X 470uF 35V 105 degree
2X 10uF 63V 85 degree
1X 100uF 400V
Having now checked them with a meter off board one of the 470uf ones was very dead. The 470uf pair are the low voltage power supply smoothing capacitors.
Top man!!!! You need to stick around. I always have electronic questions and no-one can answer them!!
I only just saw these comments!!!!! I =m not sure why they don't come up in my feed.
mine is leaking bro hahah its -10C outside
Its PCB
Yes it is.
@@HeatingGeek
It's common for Vaillats after they are getting older, isn't it?
You are great engineer, well done mate.
@@andriy-777 Very common. I think I can fix them but I haven't had the time to test. :-)
Any idea how much this will cost ?
PCB is about 200 plus fitting. Not cheap is the answer. :-) Vaillant are expensive on the PCBs and fans.
HeatingGeek - thanks man - more bad news
@@HeatingGeek mine is showing F64 mate had no hot water all day yesterday got back from work last night and pressed the lock out button and it's working fine now though in my experience it will show again soon thanks for this video clip it's brilliant mate
@@garylawton7254 Same issue as F62. PCB required. Unfortunately.
@@HeatingGeek the fault codes dissapered now mate after pressing lockout button last night I have a feeling it will show again though don't you, there is a elecrical gremlin somewhere in boiler looks like thanks for reply
Why do i pay 5000 every 5 years for gas tickets for you to teach diy people who are not gas safe to do jobs we specialize... wrong mate.
5000 every 5 years ?? Your being mugged off mate
@@alanmurphy3584 domestic and commercial. Plus public liability mate probably more.
GamerFamily Fun ah ok, get ya
This isn't for DIY. I don't tell people how to vent rads or fit boilers. Most people won't try and fix a boiler. I don't fix my van or roof my garage or tile my bathroom. I can do it, I just don't. People who will fix stuff will always fix stuff. Cant stop it. I run 2 businesses, pay all the BS you do for both and don't think this will make 1 little bit of difference to the gas industry. I have asked for people like you (who don't like it) to set up a site and host all these videos for free and give access to all GSR engineers.... No one will do it. Not even gas safe. Sorry for giving away a few little tips to new engineers and apprentices. Cant please everyone.
Nice one mate
No problem. :-)