A new ANCHOR, CHAIN and the mother of BILGE PUMPS
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- Hi guys,
It's been a while but things have been a a little busy over the summer.
These are the choices we went with on our anchor and bilge pump install. The reason I wanted to install another bilge pump is for safety reasons only, just didn't think the original bilge pump was man enough for the job on it's own, after all 2 is 1 and 1 is none right?
I hope this video is useful to you. Cheers, Chris and Tanja
Sorry about that G D slip because I had enjoyed you channel for awhile. God Bless you and stay safe. Ill be unsuspecting now.
You are welcome, all the best
Nice video. If I may give you a tip on the anchor chain: we make color codes every 10 meters so that you can easily see how much chain you dropped (or pulled back in). You can buy a set of plastic "rainbow chain markers" for €20,- or (what we did) use different colored tie-wraps. E.g. red at 10 mtrs, white at 20 mtrs, blue at 30 meters, yellow at 40 mtrs, black at 50 mtrs and mixed colors at 60 meters.
Thanks for the tip. I have thought of this before but as we have a chain counter on the windlass we know exactly how much is out anyways. I think one day when we travel further afield it could be good to have both though. Cheers
Good job... regarding the the shrinking and soldering tubes. If you make sure to melt the solder completely thay are golden... but dont make the mistake of thinking they will be waterproof every time... when i use these i a likely to be wet part of a boat or a car i always put a coat of "permateks" on it. ( any old motor mechanic wil know about this old gasket/glue stuff) it wil be sticky for ever so if thats a problem i put a normal heat shrink on top of it. Just a tip.
Best regards from Jarle
Hi Jarle, thanks very much for the tip. Appreciate good advice like this
bilge pump like car/house insurance. dont need it till you need it. keep safe
Tidy install , good job , when l built my 45ft cat l installed 4 X 4000 lph pumps...never used...never want to , plus l made it 3 1/2 ton positively buoyant...l can theoretically fload both hulls & it should only drop 200mm on the waterline... again never want to test it...cheers
Sounds like you built a tidy cat! Over 3 tonnes positively bouyant... I am jealous. Cheers, Chris
Nice bilge installation, and so clean ;-). Thanks, Chris. It's nice to see the channel spring to life again, but don't excuse yourself - it's worth waiting for more interesting content. Cheers.
Hello, thanks for the comment. I feel a little safer with that extra pump in place and yes there will be more interesting content coming, we have some nice plans for the summer
Great video as always! That is one monster bilge pump and a very neat installation (which hopefully will never be put to the test). I think we are both very happy so far with the soft solder heat shrink connectors though I do understand some people’s apprehension. It was after being told how they were being used by a robotic tech working on a oil rig that I started using them around 12 months ago and so far no problems.
It’s great to see you post another video and the frequency doesn’t matter…… all the best to you both😀
Hi Paul, yes, really loving those connectors, they seem really really solid and yes let's hope that bilge pump is never used. Posting some new videos soon :)
Real men used to measure their manliness by how small their bilge pump was ;)
Hahah, that did make me chuckle
You know... advice from RUclips randos is probably something to be very leary of... but I can't help myself... if you're going to use a swivel on an anchor, you need to remove it from the anchor shaft and put a short length of chain between the swivel and the anchor, because side loading when the tide or wind shifts can/will tear that swivel apart like it was made of plastic. See, for example, morganscloud.com /2021/07/18/two-interesting-anchoring-reports/ (I've broken that url intentionally, so youtube won't filter it.) I can recommend Harries' site as well, of course, SV Panope's RUclips channel for anchor stuff. I look forward to your next video. Be well, be safe.
Hi Karl, thanks for the advice, really appreciated that. I will take a look into this topic. Cheers
Great video, In just wondered if you ever considered putting another bilge pump in the lowest part of hull below the false bilge?
Thanks very much. no need to but one in there, if water gets in there it runs to just behind the keel in the main cross section of the grid, there is a hole here where you can get a pipe in and suck it out
brilliant video
Thanks, I know it's short and simple but doing what I can for the moment. Cheers
I wonder if anyone else thinks your jubilee clips should be “handed” ie the screw clamps should be 180 degree opposed? I say this because I put them like this on my anchor locker drain and it leaked
Probably a good idea :) it's usually good practice
Thanks as always Chris! Also, would like to get your thoughts on the Rocna Vulcan after you spend some time with it.
and great to have you and Tanja back, moving sucks!
Hi Todd, you are welcome. It will be interesting to see how the anchor is going to do. I have limited opportunities to really test it up here though because we are usually moored bow in to an anchorage or we a fairly sheltered on anchor. The only true test is an anchorage with wind I guess. We will see :) Cheers, Chris
I fall into the terrible camp of people that think it would be great idea to have a pump like that but never get round to actually doing it. I just read a book by Simon Calder where that exact wire connection isn't recommended because the wire can heat up when drawing a heavy current and melt the solder. If he ever visits my boat I'll hide the ones in my electrical connections spares box. I once tested a winch motor on my boat using a set of heavy duty jumper leads. The motor worked just fine but our smoke alarm went off. I looked back to find the red lead actually melting on the cockpit floor. Not all wires are actually what they say on the tin.
Hi Phil, thanks for the input, a good test would be to run the pump for a long time and check the heat, hadn't thought of that with the solder. I will try. Funny story with the jumper cables, I probably would have done the same, I know I can be impatient with making work arounds just to see if they are working before the final installation also. It's definately true, always good to know exactly which wiring is actually in the cable. Happy sailing, Chris
Nice to see you back. Have you considered to have the bilge pump working without a switch.
Hi Eric, the bilge pump will always work no matter where the switch is. the switch is only to switch the alarm sound off when it starts going