4:20 my typical landscape setting is f/5.6 or 6.4 where most aps-c lenses are sharpest when I need depth of field, I shoot at f9 or f11 - I also noticed any bigger f-number will reduce image sharpness throughout any aps-c lenses due to a weird effect with the aperture blade edges. For small frame cameras (24x36 = German "Kleinbild" meaning small picture or small frame) always shoot 1 stop bigger number, f8 instead f5.6 or f16 instead of f11.
Very good. I always also look at the scene and if leaves are moving I will raise ISO accordingly to get one fast shot to freeze the motion of any moving leaves. I will then use this in a blend to get a 100% sharp image. Very good video and explanation. Thanks
I liked the portrait version of the 2nd waterfall. Thanks for the advise about showing the path of the water in that "S" curve. I think that makes a huge difference!
it is huge I didnt see your comment but so important in photography and something to try at least to get in your photo it leaves the viewer at a aw! thats awesome iam always watching for the S GREAT POINT AS WELL Jason.
Hi Ian, hope all is good in your world and you’re not missing Northants too much 😉😀 This was an excellent film, it covered everything we need to know for this type of photography , I must add and I’ve never said it before, you are a great teacher and very natural in front of the camera! Most enjoyable, cheers. 👏👍😀
I liked your comment about visualizing your composition before worrying about camera settings. In my mind this is the essence of fine art photography as opposed to just taking 'tourist' photos.
I think the key you mentioned is not to worry about the settings until you are ready to take the photo and have decided what you want to emphasize with the photo.
Great topic with great tutorial and outstanding images, composition comes before settings…question, why do most creeks in UK have a brown water colour?
Ian, thanks for running through this. It was definitely a helpful affirmation for me. I've never completely loved my waterfall/water movement images. But, I also have usually been in lighting situations that I could completely control because I don't have a proper filter for all of my lenses. I do have a CPL for my XF18-55 though and will have to give that a try along with trying to shoot in some less harsh sunlight situations. Thanks again, have a great weekend.
Nice talk through of your procedure Ian... A couple of cracking images to boot. Weirdly, I was checking my LR catalogue about 30 mins ago and could see I had been out on this day last year (Oct 12th 2022) with Gareth Danks - yup, we had been here ! atb Al
Great video as always, I've always heard the term "pre-visualization" but to my way of thinking it should just be "visualaztion". Pre implies that there is something occurring before you visualize the scene.
Another good one. I enjoy your approach and your descriptions of steps (although you talk very quickly, so I have to rewind sometimes). Keep up the good work.
Ian, very helpful and informative video. It makes perfect sense to wait until you have found the shot to consider exposure settings. One quick question regarding focal length. The photos show 13mm but if I am correct your FUJIFILM is a crop sensor camera so the full-frame equivalent is 19-20mm. Am I understanding that correctly?
Hi I'm new to your videos . Ive recently got into long exposure photos and love it . Your video is great and easy to understand . Please can i ask what camera bag you use ? thanks
loving your water shots. i know its personal how you like your water but every where i look on youtube its just cotton wool shots and im not a fan so thanks Ian for showing me plenty of movement but still looks like water
Well for starters not many actually say look out for the S curve well said i noticed it right away a very important, item to watch for this grabs a great photo as I saw in your photos very well put together video and thanks I also hit the like and sub to your channel thanks again ~Dave🌟
In an environment like this, I would take several photos at different shutter speeds. Then pick the photo I like the best. However, yes, shutter speed helps make the image.
I have just upgraded to a xt5 and seem to be having a few issues with focus. I am on a tripod and I took 4 frames with the same scene and focus, 2 are very sharp and 2 out of focus, 2 sec timer on all 4 frames, any ideas. Malcolm
You can try turning off IBIS in the camera, and/or OIS in your lens. I've found that the 16-80 lens, in particular, is supposed to automatically detect when it's on a tripod, but it doesn't work in my copy.
I would also check out a graph on your lens sharpness at different apertures and focal lengths, it's important i think to know you lens. Otherwise your images may turn out very soft. I've also learned the hard way when buying lenses that you REALLY have to do your research before buying lenses, else you will 100% get buyers regret.
The title seems to be designed as click bait. I watched all the way through waiting eagerly to find out what camera settings were wrong but was disappointed that it was just a general treatise on the exposure triangle with a bit about nd filters thrown in. Choose your titles with more care.
Great video, you answered a question I was having trouble with, and now I understand it. Onwards and upwards. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching, i'm glad it was helpful
Brilliant video and photos, along with a great tutorial on composition, camera settings and focussing. Fabulous!
Thank you 👍👍
4:20 my typical landscape setting is f/5.6 or 6.4 where most aps-c lenses are sharpest
when I need depth of field, I shoot at f9 or f11 - I also noticed any bigger f-number will reduce image sharpness throughout any aps-c lenses due to a weird effect with the aperture blade edges.
For small frame cameras (24x36 = German "Kleinbild" meaning small picture or small frame) always shoot 1 stop bigger number, f8 instead f5.6 or f16 instead of f11.
Very helpful, thx Ian. As I live in south,east Wales that’s just around the corner will take a trip there. 😊👍
it's a great spot, especially during Autumn
Your two main waterfall photos are superb for me you’ve captured just enough movement of the water and the composition is amazing 👍
Very good. I always also look at the scene and if leaves are moving I will raise ISO accordingly to get one fast shot to freeze the motion of any moving leaves. I will then use this in a blend to get a 100% sharp image. Very good video and explanation. Thanks
Great tip 👍👍
Some great tips and a nicely produced video. Well done
I liked the portrait version of the 2nd waterfall. Thanks for the advise about showing the path of the water in that "S" curve. I think that makes a huge difference!
it is huge I didnt see your comment but so important in photography and something to try at least to get in your photo it leaves the viewer at a aw! thats awesome iam always watching for the S GREAT POINT AS WELL Jason.
Beautiful location, great video. I'll save up these tips for those rare times I get into waterfall country. 🙂
Thanks Len 👍
Hi Ian, hope all is good in your world and you’re not missing Northants too much 😉😀 This was an excellent film, it covered everything we need to know for this type of photography , I must add and I’ve never said it before, you are a great teacher and very natural in front of the camera! Most enjoyable, cheers. 👏👍😀
I liked your comment about visualizing your composition before worrying about camera settings. In my mind this is the essence of fine art photography as opposed to just taking 'tourist' photos.
Very helpful! Thank you! And very beautiful photos 👍🏼❤️
Glad it was helpful! 👍
Thanks Ian for such good advice.You make things easy to understand.I’ll definitely be trying out your recommendations 👍
Stunning Shots. Great advice Thank you
ahhh - the lovely Dinas Rock waterfall 🙂
Sure is 👍
I've done that scramble down the embankment many times 🙂
it's a shame you can't get further back really without risking everything!!@@ian_worth
I think the key you mentioned is not to worry about the settings until you are ready to take the photo and have decided what you want to emphasize with the photo.
Thanks 👍👍
Great video mate. Really enjoyed your simple and straightforward explanation of your process.
Great topic with great tutorial and outstanding images, composition comes before settings…question, why do most creeks in UK have a brown water colour?
Cheers, buddy, there's a lot of peat bogs in the hills that stain the water a deep brown colour
Great stuff, as always. Thanks Ian.
Glad you enjoyed it
Ian, thanks for running through this. It was definitely a helpful affirmation for me. I've never completely loved my waterfall/water movement images. But, I also have usually been in lighting situations that I could completely control because I don't have a proper filter for all of my lenses. I do have a CPL for my XF18-55 though and will have to give that a try along with trying to shoot in some less harsh sunlight situations. Thanks again, have a great weekend.
Thanks for watching, much appreciated 🙏👍
7:15 Shutter speed will vary "depending on your 'current' conditions." A natural punster, you are 🙂. Enjoyed this video - well done!
Awesome, thank you! 👍👍
Nice talk through of your procedure Ian... A couple of cracking images to boot. Weirdly, I was checking my LR catalogue about 30 mins ago and could see I had been out on this day last year (Oct 12th 2022) with Gareth Danks - yup, we had been here ! atb Al
Ahh that's awesome, its a great place, i hope you got some good shots. 👍
I was at Sychryd last weekend,amazing place.
It really is! Hope you got some good photos👍
Love your work. Are you using the Viltrox 13mm f/1.4 in the last few images?
Fantastic and so informative. Thanks.
Great video as always, I've always heard the term "pre-visualization" but to my way of thinking it should just be "visualaztion". Pre implies that there is something occurring before you visualize the scene.
Another good one. I enjoy your approach and your descriptions of steps (although you talk very quickly, so I have to rewind sometimes). Keep up the good work.
Awesome, thank you!
Ian, very helpful and informative video. It makes perfect sense to wait until you have found the shot to consider exposure settings. One quick question regarding focal length. The photos show 13mm but if I am correct your FUJIFILM is a crop sensor camera so the full-frame equivalent is 19-20mm. Am I understanding that correctly?
Hi I'm new to your videos . Ive recently got into long exposure photos and love it . Your video is great and easy to understand . Please can i ask what camera bag you use ? thanks
Awesome, thank you! Sure thing! You can view all of my gear here 👉 www.iworthphotos.com/my-gear
Those it work for a point and shot (digicam) with manual (M) settings?
Beautiful photo indeed ❤
Nice photographs.
Thank you 👍
loving your water shots. i know its personal how you like your water but every where i look on youtube its just cotton wool shots and im not a fan so thanks Ian for showing me plenty of movement but still looks like water
Thanks so much
What tripod head are you using?
Enjoying your channel.
Basic landscape photography points "worth" keeping in mind.
Was there any mention of setting the proper white balance?
great tips
Glad you like them! 👍
Those images give the ”i wanna go there right freakin now-feeling”. Nice work!
Awesome! Thank you!
Well for starters not many actually say look out for the S curve well said i noticed it right away a very important, item to watch for this grabs a great photo as I saw in your photos very well put together video and thanks I also hit the like and sub to your channel thanks again ~Dave🌟
In an environment like this, I would take several photos at different shutter speeds. Then pick the photo I like the best. However, yes, shutter speed helps make the image.
We’ll done, Ian!
Thank you 👍👍
What a spot, (3.24) Photography heaven
Thanks for watching, much appreciated 🙏👍
I have just upgraded to a xt5 and seem to be having a few issues with focus. I am on a tripod and I took 4 frames with the same scene and focus, 2 are very sharp and 2 out of focus, 2 sec timer on all 4 frames, any ideas. Malcolm
You can try turning off IBIS in the camera, and/or OIS in your lens. I've found that the 16-80 lens, in particular, is supposed to automatically detect when it's on a tripod, but it doesn't work in my copy.
which focus mode are you using ?
3:49 without that middle bar of the tripod, you could go way deeper, couldn't you?
I would also check out a graph on your lens sharpness at different apertures and focal lengths, it's important i think to know you lens. Otherwise your images may turn out very soft.
I've also learned the hard way when buying lenses that you REALLY have to do your research before buying lenses, else you will 100% get buyers regret.
great video
Look with one eye shut and keep still.
Why is the area of the waterfall Yellow.
Looks like raw sewage is being pumped
into the stream.
It's peat from the hills which stain the water brown, hopefully!
i got it f2 @ 1/4000 ok
The title seems to be designed as click bait. I watched all the way through waiting eagerly to find out what camera settings were wrong but was disappointed that it was just a general treatise on the exposure triangle with a bit about nd filters thrown in.
Choose your titles with more care.
Just for your information: I did not watch your video, because of the click bait word "this".
I was in the 1/10 part when I noticed your comment and I stopped watching, too.
RUclips is a form of ‘’fake news’’ and deception to the viewers. Most of the videos are total bullshit.
Man you not know your staff but you also fone homework well.
Perfection will set you apart from real art good terminology is ok but to much sugar on a nice good cup coffe can taste bad
Too much chatter and music. Get to it!
Cheers buddy 👍
At 02:51, why did you not shoot inside the cave? And why aren't camera bags not being used anymore? A lot quicker to get your gear out.