What’s your favorite inexpensive photo accessory? Let me know! Always looking to produce more relevant content. I could maybe do some equipment reviews on them.
In the past when using small compact cameras it was always the small tripods with bendable legs, great for selfies, long exposures, delayed exposures, etc. Lately, maybe the little toy beanbag I once bought, but since I don't go on safari anymore I hardly use it.
I'd say investing in a small humidity cabinet ( like the Sirui HC-50 for $240 USD) is a great investment, especially if you live in a relatively dusty environment or a high-humidity environment like I do. They're silent and really don't use much power at all and the peace of mind is invaluable.
I picked up a mini tripod off amazon for about $35 perfect for when I travel light but might want to use a tripod. Also much better than the overpriced gorilla pod that I didn't like.
I have a dumb LED that costs about 20 EUR and is great for boudoir photos in the near dark. Way better than flash. Also have a cheap tripod that. works just fine. When walking, I prefer a sling over other straps. I don't know if a screen calibration tool is under 100 USD, but that's a nice thing too. What I never use is my colour card and cube. Adjusting white balance in software is easy enough.
I’d like to add that if you have cameras with exposed sensors, one more way to reduce the chance of getting dust on the sensor is to make sure you wait a few extra seconds after you switch off the power, before detaching the lens. This is to make sure the camera has time to discharge static electricity from the sensor. If you detach the lens immediately (or didn’t turn off the power at all) the sensor will become a dust magnet. I went from having to clean my sensor 3-4 times a year, to once in 3 years after I adopted this habit.
@@edneddy2 It’s not something I found out myself. I heard it somewhere, but I can’t recall where from. Of course, we also need to remember other tips, like making sure the sensor’s facing down when exposed, finding a cleaner place to change lenses, taking as short time as possible, etc..
I was so obsessed over not having to clean the sensor, that I avoided switching lenses altogether. Even bought a second DSLR just for the prime portrait lens. Eventually I started switching lenses, but it never occurred to me to even turn the camera off while switching. Great idea.
A tip I have is a rubber sun cap for your lens. It is used for taking pictures trough glass. Ideal if you are taking pictures in a zoo of animals that are behind glass. The rubber sun cap prevents light making reflections on the glass that can ruin your picture. Of course it can also be used in other situations where you want to take a picture trough glass but you can't open a window. Think about taking pictures from high buildings or from a train.
My new job has a 110-mile commute once a week, and I was considering purchasing a rubber lens boot for that exact reason during the train ride! Have you used one yet? Do they have any tricks/techniques?
A wrist strap is one item I can't/won't do without. My hands are not as steady or strong as they used to be and the security I get from using my wrist strap means I can focus more attention on my compositions! Thanks again for another great video, Simon!
about the intervalometer : before going out and searching the one that is compatible with your camera, go look in the menus of your camera first, most of modern cameras nowadays have this function built in, even some have the video timelapse encoder right in as well (Lumix and Nikon cameras for example).
Just a word of warning regarding ssd drives. Never use them for long term storage. They degrade faster than mechanical hard drives. Yes mechanical hard drives are prone to mechanical failure, but data decays faster on ssds and once that data is lost, unlike mechanical hard drives, they cannot be recovered. It is gone forever. So use mechanical drives for stationary backup that you're not going to access often, and the less fragile ssds are best used while on the go travelling to quickly back up directly from your camera cards. It's also a good idea to replace it with a brand new back up drive every 5 years or so.
Yup, that was my thought as well when I saw that. Prices for SSDs have come down but the same is true for mechanical drives. You can get a mechanical drive that is twice the size of an SSD for half the cost AND it will probably last longer.
A set of step up rings. If you're going to start using lens filters - like an ND filter to get those beautiful long exposures - get the filter that fits your largest lens thread and the step up rings will adapt it to fit smaller lens threads on your other lenses. Much cheaper than buying multiple filters.
My free accessory to always have with you = a plastic grocery bag. If you don't bring your camera case with you, having a plastic bag handy can save you not only from unexpected rain or snow, but unexpected sprays (like I encountered at Old Faithful), wind on a sandy beach or any other unexpected airborne danger to your camera. The bag stores easily almost anywhere (back pocket, purse, etc) and is ready quick.
Even one further is using a clear shower cap with the elastic rim. Fit's snug on the body, you still can see and clearly access the functions while it's protecting the camera, and not as big, cumbersome and billowy as a plastic bag. Best accessory I've ever used!
One of my go to needs in my bag is a polarizing filter. I’m primarily a landscape photographer though but I think those are really important. Rare that I’m taking photos in direct mid afternoon sun but it does happen from time to time
Another useful tip is to have more than one tripod quick release plate, e.g. one on the camera and one on the telephoto lens foot - makes swapping from wide to telephoto lenses much simpler.
For most photographers backing up to an SSD, this won’t be an issue, but definitely worth mentioning that due to the way charges are stored in SSDs, they should be plugged into power every so often to prevent the SSD equivalent of “bit rot”.
Yeah, long term storage ye ole' Spinny boy is better, because every bit and byte is in a physical location (atleast on CMR drives), which makes data recovery a lot easier. On an SSD, if the controller is gone, you don't know where the files are stored. M-Discs and Archival discs or even Tape Recorders are even better in long term storage, but kinda expensive. But yeah keeping data backed up on an external drive that in case of a fire or other emergency you can just grab and go is a good idea. If you can, buy an HDD or SSD case and the SSD seperately, as that allows you to switch out the drive or case as needed, like when a new, faster connection standard becomes available. Fantec has made some good enclosures at reasonable prices. SSDs are quick but WD Blacks and Golds are no slouches in copying either, around 270 mb/s, which cuts down massively back up times, especially if you use a program like copy handler that makes any copying into a sequential write, and they have a lot of space for the money around 8 TB for 214-228 (WD Gold) euros and 10 TB for around 260. (WD Black) Prices are for Germany, and make sure to look for the versions with the 256MB cache.
All reputable, commercial, consumer SSDs need to be able to retain data for at least 1 year without power. In practice, it's longer than that. Likewise for data centre SSDs, it's three years. However, this is less of an issue, as most SSDs in a data centre never get disconnected from a power supply, unless they're being used for temporary data transfer during server migrations, in which case it's not an issue. It's not "bit rot" per-se, that's a much misused non-technical term - as nothing gets damaged, and the SSD is still perfectly usable. However, the charge that represents the bits that make up the data does drain away after > 1 year, so data will be lost when this eventually happens, unless power is re-applied, as Luke stated.
I use both for long term backup. I always carry a smaller SSD with me for backup while on the road. Makes no sense to haul your long term backup with you.
I would buy two disks - external HDD for long term backup storage (not only photos, but also important documents) and keep it in bag with physical important document as something what I can grab in case of emergency (like earthquake, fire, evacuation). On the other side, portable SSD is great thing for more than one day trips, once or twice a day, copy SSD card to external SSD for aditional backup - especially if you only have phone with USB OTG, but no enough memory to store all images in long term.
Simon: Your best tip is getting rid of the cheap vendor camera strap. I used to get severe neck pains when being out on a long shoot. I got a decent strap, now no problems no matter how long I am out.
From a career computer tech: the ssd advice is spot on. Learn to back up your data before learning Lightroom and Photoshop. Also: keep your ssd off site. You don't want to lose both your backup to fire or theft and your computer.
I am an Olympus shooter and our batteries can be charged only on 110 V. I have an ancient power inverter from RadioShack. It plugs into a cigarette lighter outlet and I can plug my charger into that. I often charge my accessory battery while I’m eating lunch in the middle of an all day photo shoot. Another fabulous video, Simon! Thank you!
Another great video. As someone with 60 years of photo experience I agree with the tips. Re backup power. A. ALWAYS buy a spare original branded camera battery. You've already spent heaps on the camera and lens. Why scrimp a few dollars and get some unbranded thing that could destroy all that gear (eg explode in your bag) or injure you? B. My Canon requires a 'PD' power bank and can't be used whilst its connected. So I bought a stand alone usb powered charger instead. My existing power bank can be connected to that away from my gear and charge my spare battery whilst I keep shooting. Cheaper, simpler, safer, and more convenient. Re backup shots. Once I bought a cheap 10" mini laptop for backups. No SSDs back then!
Great advice! I agree with all those things you said. There are a few things that I would add. 1) A USB powered dummy battery, if your camera won't charge directly. But your camera may require higher power output for the dummy battery to work, so invest in a power bank with high power output - costs a little more, but still less than a $100. 2) Lens warmer - indispensable for nighttime photography, but also useful in any conditions where dew can collect on the lens and ruin the shot. 3) Neodymium magnets and plates for gear, to attach to your tripod, that you may want instant visual access to, but keep your hands free to make adjustments to your camera (or hold coffee) - external monitor, phone, power bank, intervalometer. Those magnets are strong, so if you have to move your setup, you can fold the legs of your tripod and move it all securely and not have to worry about loose gear dropping. I've made custom magnet mounts that I can strap to my tripod legs with velcro straps, and I've bought bicycle mount magnets. Either works great. 4) Tripod stone bag. They can be used for weight, but they're also useful gear that you don't want to have carry around or constantly transfer from bag to camera - lens caps, power bank, extra lenses, intervalometer. A variation on this is the Black Rapid tripod jacket - $50. It wraps around your tripod (some tripods better than most). It has the same amount of space as a camera bag (not backpack), so you can have protected and mobile storage of all your gear.
Flash Drives also work for backing up photos. That's what I've invested in as it's what I currently can afford is ideall for anyone starting & on a budget. Tip for maximized storage, send the files to Zip Folder (One folder being original copies) By compression, you make more room. I definitely recommend having extra batteries & fully charged before going out to shoot. Also external battery chargers as they charge faster. I picked up 4 more with a dual charger, bringing me to 18 batteries and 3 chargers. As for cards, invest in the largest capacity your camera takes as well as a backup card as you never know when it will fail. Also investing in a microfiber cloth as well as cleaning pen with a brush.
Cheap, ultra light foam knee pads! They make a huge difference, and can double as equipment padding, elbow pads, seat pad. You can get them in many stores for under $10!
Great list, Simon. Beyond a remote shutter/intervalometer, the inexpensive accessory that has given me the biggest quality of life improvement has been an arca-swiss L bracket. Being able to switch from landscape to portrait orientation with ease and without having things slip out of place because of heavier lenses, etc. has relieved so much frustration.
My favourite accessories include: 1) Remote. I use three different types: A) a cabled one, the Canon RS-60E3. It's a bit more expensive than a generic one, but also smaller and better; the resistance in the button is perfect, and it has a couple of slots for cable management. B) an infrared one, the Canon RC6 (or rather a $1 copy). I used to own the RC1 wich had a holder to attach it to the camera strap. It was very secure and never fell off, and I miss that. But after only 20 years of use, the unit died. A sad day. C) a Bluetooth one, the Canon BR-E1. Only works with certain cameras like the Eos 90D, but allows me to remotely zoom the 18-135 USM with the PZ-E1 attached. D) You could also use an intervalometer as a remote, I own one, but rarely use it. My cameras all have inbuilt intervalometers - even my old Eos 550D (Rebel T2i), because I've the Black Magic firmware installed. But if you do use the external intervalometer as a remote trigger, it's probably not even necessary to insert batteries. If you wish to use the intervalometer function, you will need the batteries, of course. 2) ... sorry, ran out of time. Will update later.
My advice, I always, always have on me a short but very thick (2cm diameter) smooth brush made originally for drawing stuff. Every single time before I change my lens (especially outside), I brush the whole area around the mount, flip the camera and use the blower. It just takes a few more seconds and it's the best way to minimize dust.
I have the same BlackRapid strap, the RS-4 Retro. I chose this one because it's the ONLY model (aside from the little backpack strap) that has a FRONT adjustment. This is game-changing because I can instantly cinch it up when I'm on the move, so it sits above my waist / against the front of my torso / stomach area. Zero flopping around and it allows me to be 95% hands-free when walking.
Simon, I really do identify the suggestions you've made as "necessary" as I have them too. I also would add that having a USB-B to USB-C adapter could be effective when moving from computers with differing connectivity options. It helps with cable management and reduces the number of items to carry in the field or while vacationing.
In addition to your excellent suggestions, I think that a comfortable means of carrying camera kit is a necessity, because otherwise you will often leave your camera at home. I used holster bags and shoulder bags for years, but often found myself leaving the camera at home because of neck strain. Beginners are often persuaded in stores to buy expensive holster or shoulder bags, but I have not met many photographers who use like to use them regularly for hours at a time. I've recently bought a Tenba Solstice 10 sling bag. This has plenty of room for a Canon 6D, 24-105, 70-200 and 50mm plus accessories, including travel tripod storage on the outside of the bag. Key attributes of this bag for me are really fast access to the camera and all-day carrying comfort. My camera kit is now with me much more of the time!
Filters make all the difference when you want to get those glorious blurred river/waterfall shots in daytime, minimize reflections or make landscape photography easier when the sky is much brighter than the landscape. At least on older cameras like my Canon 60D that lack an automatic HDR mode. There's also a massive difference between a generic store tripod and a proper photography one. That will cost more than a hundred bucks but I was blown away when I swapped my ordinary tripod for a Manfrotto. Cheaper tripods just can't handle wind as well, especially when you're using a heavier lens. Great content as usual! Production quality is also top notch!
On the subject of photo/video storage. I would recommend a HDD for long term storage. You have a better chance of recovering footage off a HDD over an SSD in the event of hardware failure. Also, SSDs can become de-energized over time and lose data. SSDs are great to work from because of their speeds, HDDs are great for reliability.
Other than a spare battery and the obvious lens cloth in my camera bag pouch, I carry a card reader with USB to USB C transfer cable. As my camera was made before wi-fi and Bluetooth connectivity became popular, this set up allows me to transfer the photos to my phone or tablet for quick sharing. A resize app on the phone is handy to reduce file size.
I would love to see Simon discuss the availability of post-processing software for those of us on a budget. I have never bought/used the more professional packages such as Photoshop, Light-Room, Capture One, etc. that require leasing with a monthly or annual payment. When I started taking photographs, I used (What is now) "Corel's Paint Shop Pro" software. As camera's became more advanced, I added Corel's AfterShot Pro 3 software to process RAW files, and to allow me to "Focus Stack" images. These software packages are not "leased" products. You buy them once, and only upgrade as one deems necessary based on the need for any newly added features. Personally, I think that these Corel software packages are a "steal" based on the price verses the number of features available for the budget minded photographer to use to post process their photographs. However, I am not looking at these Corel Software Packages from the standpoint of a professional photographer such as Simon. Therefore, it would be great to get Simon's input on what he thinks of these products. The discussion could include whether Simon thinks the Corel packages have a sufficient number of available options to handle the needs of many (most?) "hobby type" photographers without having to lease the more commercial packages mentioned above. Thank you for reading and considering my suggestion(s).
I use a sensor protector filter. An Internal, clip-in clear filter that prevents dust getting on the sensor and is easier to clean and if damaged much less expensive than a damaged sensor.
Computer Science student here, HDDs are actually better for long term backup storage than SSDs because SSDs lose data faster when they aren’t being used compared to HDDs. Want to know what’s even better than HDDs or SSDs? DVDs and CDs. They’re a pain to use but they’re super reliable. That being said, an SSD will work well for a backup, but there’s better options to consider.
For the side sling, RRS plates have QD attachment points which makes them compatible with rifle slings. You can also attach a QD point to a hand strap so it can be quickly removed when switching to a tripod.
Nice turn around talking about essentials Simon. I have 2 more: 1. Peak Design's camera clip. If you uses a backpack in the field and see a shot you quickly want to take without taking off your backpack and getting your camera, the clip is easy. Your camera can fit on your shoulder strap while walking and easily can be removed and used. 2. I'm old school and always carry a basic shutter release cable even though you have much more high tech methods. Call it peace of mind.
for beginners i would add ; a hood for every objective to protect it from bumps a small tripod a remote control to take pictures without holding the camera a polarising filter
I couldn’t agree more on the storage backup. I lost 4 years’ of photos due to failed hard drive that sits on my PC for years, it already showed signs of failing but I was not paying much attention at the time. Nowadays I had a 5tb external HDD to work at home and carry around. Not as fast as SSD but that will work for me. Good thing is I only plug it in if I wanted to work on the photos. Will definitely go for SSD once my current storage fills up. Thanks for the great video as always!
For me, remote release. Cheap and easy to carry. It really helps when you spend a lot of time looking through the viewfinder waiting for that crucial moment. With a remote release, you don't have to touch your camera which risks creating shake/vibration. Works well for both stills and video. Sage advice re power bank. Great for powering your camera in the field if you're doing something battery intensive.
Completely agree with a LED light especially for food photography where sometimes the lighting indoors can be too dark to get a good shot. I used to buy lenses that worked well in low light to try help fix the problem but never really solved the issue. A LED light just enabled me to use any lens I want regardless of the lighting condition.
A NAS that supports FTP is a game changer for me. Able to backup my photo from my camera to my nas drive directly saves my alot of time. And able to access it from my computer instantly as I'm shooting in the studio is such a blessing to have. 😂
One of my favourite cheap camera accessories that I recently purchased from Amazon was a 65 inch joilcan tripod because not only does it have a quick release for the camera plate but it came with two plates so if you carry two cameras it is very quick and easy to switch between the cameras and the tripod was only around £30
A reliable multitool with a belt clip or pouch is so handy to loosen tripod screws or extract stuck SD cards, to remove a shard from skin, or to tighten the screws of a cage. So many applications.
A big part of dust on the sensor is from the back of the lens and the area around the lens cap keep those areas clean and you will eliminate a lot of dust as there is always dust in your camera bag. i always use a brush or a microfiber to wipe off the area around the back of the lens and also the area around the camera mount before swapping out a lens..
I've never had to clean the sensor on my Olympus em5 mkii, the inbuilt ultra sonic sensor cleaning works amazing! ( I do take care though when swopping lenses). A cheap accessory in my camera bag is a rubber band, very handy in case screw on filters get stuck, just put the rubber band around the ring, grip it and loosen. (yes magnetic filters would be nice :)
Best accessory I got was merino wool photography gloves with magnetic clips on the thumbs and index fingers paid about $90 CAD on sale think regular price was about $110 CAD made winter photography far more enjoyable in Manitoba. A blower and lens pen are probably my two most used accessories.
...continued. 2) Flash defuser. I use a simple one that you just pull onto the lens barrel. Not much good if you haven't yet invested in a flashgun, of course, so get a flash first. Like a Godox or a YongNuo, unless you absolutely want the name brand. 3) Raynox macro conversion lens. If you don't wish to invest in a real macro lens, the Raynox is a good place to start.
I'd include on your list a good camera bag. I understand how that might not apply to your style with 600mm monster lenses. But I try to always have my camera handy for those random shots of opportunity. Having a core shooting setup ready to go in one place is pretty helpful.
As for favorite accessory... By far my most used camera accessory is the pd quick-clip. Not affiliated with them or anything, but definitely worth checking out. It does what it says on the box. Quick. Clip. The base has a couple of screws and a plate, you just bolt it to the shoulder strap of your backpack and you attach the arca swiss plate to the bottom of the camera. Done. Snaps in, holds my 7D mkII with a whopper of a lens (Zenitar, at about 700 grams) very securely, unlocks with the push of a button. I have no issues trusting it to hold the camera tightly when cycling through the local woods, climbing minor obstacles like rocks and whatnot, just generally wandering about. I'm more concerned about the zoom lense's little lock latch unlocking and having the lens extend at random. So... yeah, the peak design is not the cheapest accessory I own (that honor goes to the blower), but it's most certainly the most used one.
As a new hobby photographer (About 2 months now), I've bought the biggest card I could (SanDisk 32gb Extreme), a portable, brandname card reader (Kingston MobileLite Plus) and will be buying an inexpensive camera shoulder bag (Don't have extra lenses yet, just my D3100 and Nikon 18-55 VR f/3.5-5.6. Might buy the lens hood, a cleaning kit and possibly some filters next.
I’ve been using a peak design capture clip on and off for the past 5 years or so. The last year I haven’t gone anywhere without it! Whether I’m skiing, hiking, climbing or just chilling it’s always been very useful. Has helped me capture multiple Moose pictures this winter and spring. Great video, just subscribed and looking forward to more! 😁
All good stuff. I was using a shoulder sling too but I am short and never seemed to get it right ( too many clips etc.) so I started using one of my guitar straps. Cheap and super comfortable.
My most useful, inexpensive accessory is a roll of gaffer tape (or duck/duct tape). And specifically in a studio, a dummy battery so the camera is connected directly to a USB charger. It means I can work for as long as I like and take as many photos as I like without having to think about changing batteries.
If you're cheap or can't find a compatible intervalometer and you happen to have a camera that uses a jack port for the intervalometer than plugging in a simple jack cable and tying the stereo left side to ground will trigger the camera. (I only tried this on my Cannon EOS 350D because I wanted to try astrophotography and I couldn't find a compatible intervalometer.) To get basically the same effect as an intervalometer set the camera to burst mode and set your shutter speed. Sadly you can't controll the time between shots but it works pretty well apart from that.
Excellent advise! My first digital camera (a Toshiba PDR-M5 compact camera) I purchased in the late nineties. Memory cards where very expensive and had limited storage. During a 2 month trip to Australia I had to aggressively delete and lower the quality of images during the trip. After that I bought a portable HD that was both a music player and storage for photos, problems sorted. Nowadays I just fit every device with a large memory card so they are always ready to use (I move everything to my laptop after each session). On some trips I don't bring my laptop but a Chromebook, I'm thinking of putting in a large 1TB micro SD card (or several if I shoot video) to backup everything after a day shooting. At home everything is backed up to my Nextcloud server and several external drives. As for straps, the straps that arrive with cameras are not the best. Yesterday I went on a 6km walk with two camera around my neck and my (mostly empty) camera bag. as well. My neck is still sore, even though I use them mostly as shoulder straps, but you can't shoot fast. Need to investigate something better :) Enjoy your trip to Botswana, it's going to be amazing!
Another idea for powering your camera, I have something called a dummy battery. It looks like a usual battery except its much lighter and has a cable attached to it, I simply insert the cable in an external power source and my camera jumps to life!
Another top notch watch, thank you. As a lifelong watcher of all things natural but only a fairly recent digital camera user my tip is 100% free. Patience. Time spent watching and listening is time well spent, turning those opportunistic grab shots we often get whilst walking through into more consistent better quality results.
Personally I highly recommend spare batteries from SmallRig. They make them for Nikon now, both in the EN-EL15C and EN-EL25 flavor, and the best part is that the battery itself has a USB-C port. So you can charge them directly through a power bank, no separate battery charger required. There are other brands that do the same but SmallRig batteries charge faster. I have two of them. By the time the spare is empty the first battery is recharged again. So I can keep shooting indefinitely with just two batteries!
I would say if you are buying 1tb ssd instead of buying another ssd to mirror the firs one, buy HDD 2-4TB, even if something happens to the HDD, you can recover 90-100% back - had to do it last month :D ssd works differently, i would presume that you can do that as well but you wont get all back as with hdd
Thank you. Like your choices. I would only add getting a “QD” or Quick Disconnect attachment connector for my Black Rapid camera sling or other strap and adding a SmallRig or other camera base plate from RRS, Kirk or Leafoto for both tripod attachment and QD socket. Can also put a QD connector on Peak Design straps to turn them into sling style. Black Rapid also has straps now where QD is shipped with it. Also saw someone recommending a wrist strap and couldn’t agree more. I have the Peak Design one for every body and also use a few more sophisticated hand straps on some of my bigger, heavier camera bodies. Take care.
Before you go shopping for an intervalometer it is worth checking if your camera has it already built in (Canon calls it "Interval timer", and you'll find it in the menu next to the "Bulb timer", another useful tool).
Before you buy you should check if your gear is compatible too. I put a hot shoe cup on my old Canon camera and it went nuts. Turns out you need a cup with a cut out otherwise it triggers a sensor and the camera is acting as a flash is installed so you can't choose high shutter speed.
The cardboard tube in the centre of a toilet roll can be put between a reversed 50mm lens and the body of a film camera and used for macro photography.
I get a lot of mileage out of cloth pencil cases. They come in colours, you can write on them (sharpie is best), they fit where they shouldn't (corners etc) and I can separate different bits and parts and cables and batteries etc.. I get mine at a local dollar type store.
thanks, i now plan to get a portable ssd for back up, dummy battries is now my new focus instead of buying new batteries, i can atleast trust the power in the powerbank.
Can't say this enough, really the best photography videos for me. Some people just talk and don't show examples, some people just try to sell you things, and more. Greatly appreciate your approach honestly! Would you recommend quick release straps? I don't like walking around without a strap but also don't like shooting with it as it gets in the way.
I don’t use long heavy lenses so the Peak Design clip for my smaller Nikon Z6ii for roaming around, especially with a backpack on while on a hike. Makes it easy to grab and it’s not constantly whacking you in the chest.
FWIW: If you are going to be without power for days at a time ( while on safari or hiking the Pacific Crest Trail, for example ), there are external battery packs that have a built in solar panel for less than $100.
Always your videos are like a lessons in a classroom at home. It's an amazing tutorial. I like your teachings as they are just transparent and crystal clear and no hidden agenda in that. Great Simon. I could find and subscribe your channel since long time. So inspirational teacher. Making the photography more interesting and fearless. Thanks 🙏👏
I have a few of the Sandisk SSDs, tough, water, dust and shock resistant, and often on sale. I have used them all over the world with me without a single failure, ever. I use those exact sensor swabs, effective and easy to use. I have versions of all those other accessories you recommend also. Been doing this as a pro for 50 years. . Cheers and thanks Simon
My favourite inexpensive and extremely useful item I take with me when out and about isn't a purely photo item but is a cheap Chinese made 20.000 mAh power bank that cost around £20.00 because it's really useful for recharging all my tech in the middle of nowhere so their is plenty of spare power for my phone camera and even my rechargable flashlight
The convenience of small things is priceless. You left out Monopod, that one legged item is a real gem. Unlike the tripod you can even easily use it for overhead shots and drone like shots. They are dead cheap for a decently built one.
I saw this months after you posted. When cleaning mirrorless cameras with sensor stabilization, turn this off or lock it to prevent damage to the device.
In general, I don't swap lenses. For memory cards I have a system. Left pocket is unused cards. Right pocket is used cards. When I travel, I charge my devices in the car. I have a one to many adapter, so I can charge several devices concurrently. I also have at least two USB chargers for connecting to the grid.
Thank you, SImon! When I purchased two SSD cards, it came with a carrier. Two birds, one shot. And my emergency automobile jump starter has USB and USB/C outlets. Bonus!
As mentioned bellow, SSD is great for on the go storage, but HDD is better for long term, stationary backup. They are both so cheap that this shouldn't be one or other, but one and other. Intervalometer is great thing. O have one which can be used as wired remote too (even without batteries) with shutter lock for bulb mode, it has 2.5 mm female jack on the cable end and separate adapter for camera, which is great for people using more cameras with different jacks. Only downside if not having power switch, meaning it will empty battery if left for few months. But I usually put little bit of plastic under battery to prevent this. About powerbank, some cameras don't have option for running on cable, but do have cutout on battery door intended for "dummy batter" - device that have format of battery and cable for powering from external source. I use this solution for timelapses and astrophotography - when I'm static on tripod. Usually, I add powerbank as additional weight on tripod hook.
All these tips you pass on will help people enjoy photography even more as they will have the essentials in place. Another possible tip would be memory cards. Always have too many because it is surprising just how quickly they fill up
5:35 even if your camera does not support USB power delivery, often you can get a dummy battery for about 10-20 EUR/USD and power the camera from the power bank.
I'm delighted that your coming to Botswana. You're going to have an amazing time Simon. Simply the best place wildlife photo opportunities. And incredible bird life to photograph.
I started studying photography on a creative college/highschool in The Netherlands. The first thing they learn you is to use your SSD correctly, organise it and make backups. Imagine losing all your hard work.
I had a Rapid cross strap that the swivel pulled through, fortunately I was holding the tripod mount on the lens! Great straps but be aware and keep checking it
I use to have to hunt for my SD cards as well, I got tired of it so I bought my self a SD card wallet and as I find them I stick them right into the wallet I didn't realize I had so many just from the years of getting combo packs where a camera comes with 1 or Walmart clearance sales or family giving them to me because they no longer use them. I also recommend if you have an old laptop just sitting around look up videos on how to turn it into a NAS it will allow you to have things backed up automatically and you can access it with any device on the network and most OSs that are NAS oriented are free to use and work well with low end hardware.
Great video! I have been photographing for almost 40 years and these tips are still useful to me. I haven’t started to do these things although I have so many times decited to so it’s good to get these great reminders from one of my favorite youtuber.
Excellent video Simon! I have used the sensor cleaning products from Visible Dust (Canmore, AB) for many years. In addition to cleaning swabs and fluids, they make a lighted magnifier so that you can actually see the particles and then know exactly where they are on the sensor. The large magnifier is called Quasar and the flat portable version is the Mini Quasar. After using the blower bulb (I use their Zeeion blower with attached filter to prevent the blower from blowing dust onto the sensor), I use their Arctic Butterfly to gently wipe the sensor. This is a special brush with fibers that are statically charged to "catch" the dust particles. Plus it has a light so that you see exactly where you are wiping the sensor. A clean sensor makes for a happy photographer!
With dirty lens caps come dirty lenses. To prevent it I like to put my lens caps in a zip lock bag when not on the lens. Keeping a lenshood on at all times is also an easy way to prevent dust, dirt and damage to the front element.
Great tips Simon. My contribution is to have some duck tape for those emergency repairs in the field. You can wind a few strips around a pen or pencil and it takes up minimal room in a camera bag.
I bought a Canon 750D last week. Came with a battery grip, two batteries, 3 lenses. It was a used camera, but it only had a total of 6200 shots on the shutter. Spent 350£/375$. I was going to buy a Canon R10 but ended up opting for an older camera in order to get access to more gear for the same price. Sold two of the 3 lenses that came with the camera and kept a 55-250mm. Went on the used market, bought myself a 24mm 2.8 and a 50mm 1.8, used as new. Spent 110£/125$. Got myself a decent bag, tripod, intervalometer and a variable ND filter. Also bought a decent 128gb SD card and a USB-c card reader.. Got myself another spare canon battery, original. All added up spent just over 600£/650$
FYI - I store my photos in a SSD backup that I place in a Fireproof Safe (you can pick these up at Target fairly inexpensive). This way my main copy is always separate and safe from my main system.
I put small lens hoods with vents type to all my lenses mainly not because to prevent flare, but to protect the lens. I don't use lens filter. The vent is useful to tie lens cap to it so I will never lose it. The size of lens cap must be 2 or 3 mm less than the lens filter diameter because of already attached lens hood.
I need a card wallet! However, instead of a strap, I would recommend a quick release latching system that can clip onto a back-pack. I always use a lightweight backpack for my extra lenses when I go shooting. I very much recommend something like the Peak Design unit, though I'm not particularly fond of the entirety of the Peak Design ecosystem mainly because of cost. There are lower cost alternatives as well. Once you go with a clip system, you'll never look back.
Inexpensive and just as good lights are cheap 30-40 EURO lights made by Neweer, Ulanzi and Andoer. Honorable mention also goes t VIJIM. Some of the models also come with effects and cost a third of the price of the ones you find nearly everyone recommending. Peak Design Capture Clip V3 is an excellent way to hang a camera and still have easy and quick access with top notch security. You could also hang your camera from the belt using this clip with a vertical mount point for your belt such as a small pouch with vertical straps. While rocket/standard blowers are cheap and relatively effective, Nitecore BlowerBaby is even better. What it does better is that it provides more precision with the blows, has much more power, requires no squeezing, sometimes takes up less space, and most of all provides two different filters to ensure that you don't get any dust on your sensor or other optical component. V2 even adds a built in brush and built in LED light.
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What’s your favorite inexpensive photo accessory? Let me know! Always looking to produce more relevant content. I could maybe do some equipment reviews on them.
In the past when using small compact cameras it was always the small tripods with bendable legs, great for selfies, long exposures, delayed exposures, etc. Lately, maybe the little toy beanbag I once bought, but since I don't go on safari anymore I hardly use it.
A handy air-blower definitely! I can use it to clean my sensor, lenses, and my PC's keyboard and mouse too!
I'd say investing in a small humidity cabinet ( like the Sirui HC-50 for $240 USD) is a great investment, especially if you live in a relatively dusty environment or a high-humidity environment like I do. They're silent and really don't use much power at all and the peace of mind is invaluable.
I picked up a mini tripod off amazon for about $35 perfect for when I travel light but might want to use a tripod. Also much better than the overpriced gorilla pod that I didn't like.
I have a dumb LED that costs about 20 EUR and is great for boudoir photos in the near dark. Way better than flash.
Also have a cheap tripod that. works just fine. When walking, I prefer a sling over other straps.
I don't know if a screen calibration tool is under 100 USD, but that's a nice thing too.
What I never use is my colour card and cube. Adjusting white balance in software is easy enough.
I’d like to add that if you have cameras with exposed sensors, one more way to reduce the chance of getting dust on the sensor is to make sure you wait a few extra seconds after you switch off the power, before detaching the lens. This is to make sure the camera has time to discharge static electricity from the sensor.
If you detach the lens immediately (or didn’t turn off the power at all) the sensor will become a dust magnet.
I went from having to clean my sensor 3-4 times a year, to once in 3 years after I adopted this habit.
great tip
Best advice! Thank you
That's something I never really thought of
@@edneddy2 It’s not something I found out myself. I heard it somewhere, but I can’t recall where from. Of course, we also need to remember other tips, like making sure the sensor’s facing down when exposed, finding a cleaner place to change lenses, taking as short time as possible, etc..
I was so obsessed over not having to clean the sensor, that I avoided switching lenses altogether. Even bought a second DSLR just for the prime portrait lens. Eventually I started switching lenses, but it never occurred to me to even turn the camera off while switching. Great idea.
A tip I have is a rubber sun cap for your lens. It is used for taking pictures trough glass. Ideal if you are taking pictures in a zoo of animals that are behind glass. The rubber sun cap prevents light making reflections on the glass that can ruin your picture. Of course it can also be used in other situations where you want to take a picture trough glass but you can't open a window. Think about taking pictures from high buildings or from a train.
Didn't know this was a thing. Thank you!
My new job has a 110-mile commute once a week, and I was considering purchasing a rubber lens boot for that exact reason during the train ride! Have you used one yet? Do they have any tricks/techniques?
A wrist strap is one item I can't/won't do without. My hands are not as steady or strong as they used to be and the security I get from using my wrist strap means I can focus more attention on my compositions!
Thanks again for another great video, Simon!
about the intervalometer : before going out and searching the one that is compatible with your camera, go look in the menus of your camera first, most of modern cameras nowadays have this function built in, even some have the video timelapse encoder right in as well (Lumix and Nikon cameras for example).
Agree!
Just a word of warning regarding ssd drives. Never use them for long term storage. They degrade faster than mechanical hard drives. Yes mechanical hard drives are prone to mechanical failure, but data decays faster on ssds and once that data is lost, unlike mechanical hard drives, they cannot be recovered. It is gone forever. So use mechanical drives for stationary backup that you're not going to access often, and the less fragile ssds are best used while on the go travelling to quickly back up directly from your camera cards. It's also a good idea to replace it with a brand new back up drive every 5 years or so.
Yup, that was my thought as well when I saw that.
Prices for SSDs have come down but the same is true for mechanical drives. You can get a mechanical drive that is twice the size of an SSD for half the cost AND it will probably last longer.
A set of step up rings. If you're going to start using lens filters - like an ND filter to get those beautiful long exposures - get the filter that fits your largest lens thread and the step up rings will adapt it to fit smaller lens threads on your other lenses. Much cheaper than buying multiple filters.
My free accessory to always have with you = a plastic grocery bag. If you don't bring your camera case with you, having a plastic bag handy can save you not only from unexpected rain or snow, but unexpected sprays (like I encountered at Old Faithful), wind on a sandy beach or any other unexpected airborne danger to your camera. The bag stores easily almost anywhere (back pocket, purse, etc) and is ready quick.
Even one further is using a clear shower cap with the elastic rim. Fit's snug on the body, you still can see and clearly access the functions while it's protecting the camera, and not as big, cumbersome and billowy as a plastic bag. Best accessory I've ever used!
One of my go to needs in my bag is a polarizing filter. I’m primarily a landscape photographer though but I think those are really important. Rare that I’m taking photos in direct mid afternoon sun but it does happen from time to time
I use them for moving water to cut down the glare and add a couple stops of exposure
@@MakeItTakeItOutdoors indeed. I take a lot of shots on Lake Erie so I feel you there
Really glad you covered the sensor cleaning...I recently ran into a dust issue and didn't really know what to do but now I do!
Another useful tip is to have more than one tripod quick release plate, e.g. one on the camera and one on the telephoto lens foot - makes swapping from wide to telephoto lenses much simpler.
For most photographers backing up to an SSD, this won’t be an issue, but definitely worth mentioning that due to the way charges are stored in SSDs, they should be plugged into power every so often to prevent the SSD equivalent of “bit rot”.
I did not know that. Thank you.
Yeah, long term storage ye ole' Spinny boy is better, because every bit and byte is in a physical location (atleast on CMR drives), which makes data recovery a lot easier.
On an SSD, if the controller is gone, you don't know where the files are stored.
M-Discs and Archival discs or even Tape Recorders are even better in long term storage, but kinda expensive.
But yeah keeping data backed up on an external drive that in case of a fire or other emergency you can just grab and go is a good idea.
If you can, buy an HDD or SSD case and the SSD seperately, as that allows you to switch out the drive or case as needed, like when a new, faster connection standard becomes available.
Fantec has made some good enclosures at reasonable prices.
SSDs are quick but WD Blacks and Golds are no slouches in copying either, around 270 mb/s, which cuts down massively back up times, especially if you use a program like copy handler that makes any copying into a sequential write, and they have a lot of space for the money around 8 TB for 214-228 (WD Gold) euros and 10 TB for around 260. (WD Black)
Prices are for Germany, and make sure to look for the versions with the 256MB cache.
All reputable, commercial, consumer SSDs need to be able to retain data for at least 1 year without power.
In practice, it's longer than that.
Likewise for data centre SSDs, it's three years. However, this is less of an issue, as most SSDs in a data centre never get disconnected from a power supply, unless they're being used for temporary data transfer during server migrations, in which case it's not an issue.
It's not "bit rot" per-se, that's a much misused non-technical term - as nothing gets damaged, and the SSD is still perfectly usable. However, the charge that represents the bits that make up the data does drain away after > 1 year, so data will be lost when this eventually happens, unless power is re-applied, as Luke stated.
I use both for long term backup. I always carry a smaller SSD with me for backup while on the road. Makes no sense to haul your long term backup with you.
I would buy two disks - external HDD for long term backup storage (not only photos, but also important documents) and keep it in bag with physical important document as something what I can grab in case of emergency (like earthquake, fire, evacuation). On the other side, portable SSD is great thing for more than one day trips, once or twice a day, copy SSD card to external SSD for aditional backup - especially if you only have phone with USB OTG, but no enough memory to store all images in long term.
Simon: Your best tip is getting rid of the cheap vendor camera strap. I used to get severe neck pains when being out on a long shoot. I got a decent strap, now no problems no matter how long I am out.
From a career computer tech: the ssd advice is spot on. Learn to back up your data before learning Lightroom and Photoshop. Also: keep your ssd off site. You don't want to lose both your backup to fire or theft and your computer.
I am an Olympus shooter and our batteries can be charged only on 110 V. I have an ancient power inverter from RadioShack. It plugs into a cigarette lighter outlet and I can plug my charger into that. I often charge my accessory battery while I’m eating lunch in the middle of an all day photo shoot. Another fabulous video, Simon! Thank you!
Another great video. As someone with 60 years of photo experience I agree with the tips.
Re backup power.
A. ALWAYS buy a spare original branded camera battery. You've already spent heaps on the camera and lens. Why scrimp a few dollars and get some unbranded thing that could destroy all that gear (eg explode in your bag) or injure you?
B. My Canon requires a 'PD' power bank and can't be used whilst its connected. So I bought a stand alone usb powered charger instead. My existing power bank can be connected to that away from my gear and charge my spare battery whilst I keep shooting. Cheaper, simpler, safer, and more convenient.
Re backup shots.
Once I bought a cheap 10" mini laptop for backups. No SSDs back then!
Great advice! I agree with all those things you said. There are a few things that I would add. 1) A USB powered dummy battery, if your camera won't charge directly. But your camera may require higher power output for the dummy battery to work, so invest in a power bank with high power output - costs a little more, but still less than a $100. 2) Lens warmer - indispensable for nighttime photography, but also useful in any conditions where dew can collect on the lens and ruin the shot. 3) Neodymium magnets and plates for gear, to attach to your tripod, that you may want instant visual access to, but keep your hands free to make adjustments to your camera (or hold coffee) - external monitor, phone, power bank, intervalometer. Those magnets are strong, so if you have to move your setup, you can fold the legs of your tripod and move it all securely and not have to worry about loose gear dropping. I've made custom magnet mounts that I can strap to my tripod legs with velcro straps, and I've bought bicycle mount magnets. Either works great. 4) Tripod stone bag. They can be used for weight, but they're also useful gear that you don't want to have carry around or constantly transfer from bag to camera - lens caps, power bank, extra lenses, intervalometer. A variation on this is the Black Rapid tripod jacket - $50. It wraps around your tripod (some tripods better than most). It has the same amount of space as a camera bag (not backpack), so you can have protected and mobile storage of all your gear.
Read the video title again. It is a recommendation for beginners.
Flash Drives also work for backing up photos. That's what I've invested in as it's what I currently can afford is ideall for anyone starting & on a budget. Tip for maximized storage, send the files to Zip Folder (One folder being original copies) By compression, you make more room.
I definitely recommend having extra batteries & fully charged before going out to shoot. Also external battery chargers as they charge faster. I picked up 4 more with a dual charger, bringing me to 18 batteries and 3 chargers.
As for cards, invest in the largest capacity your camera takes as well as a backup card as you never know when it will fail.
Also investing in a microfiber cloth as well as cleaning pen with a brush.
Cheap, ultra light foam knee pads! They make a huge difference, and can double as equipment padding, elbow pads, seat pad. You can get them in many stores for under $10!
Great list, Simon. Beyond a remote shutter/intervalometer, the inexpensive accessory that has given me the biggest quality of life improvement has been an arca-swiss L bracket. Being able to switch from landscape to portrait orientation with ease and without having things slip out of place because of heavier lenses, etc. has relieved so much frustration.
My favourite accessories include:
1) Remote. I use three different types:
A) a cabled one, the Canon RS-60E3. It's a bit more expensive than a generic one, but also smaller and better; the resistance in the button is perfect, and it has a couple of slots for cable management.
B) an infrared one, the Canon RC6 (or rather a $1 copy). I used to own the RC1 wich had a holder to attach it to the camera strap. It was very secure and never fell off, and I miss that. But after only 20 years of use, the unit died. A sad day.
C) a Bluetooth one, the Canon BR-E1. Only works with certain cameras like the Eos 90D, but allows me to remotely zoom the 18-135 USM with the PZ-E1 attached.
D) You could also use an intervalometer as a remote, I own one, but rarely use it. My cameras all have inbuilt intervalometers - even my old Eos 550D (Rebel T2i), because I've the Black Magic firmware installed. But if you do use the external intervalometer as a remote trigger, it's probably not even necessary to insert batteries. If you wish to use the intervalometer function, you will need the batteries, of course.
2) ... sorry, ran out of time. Will update later.
Yes, my remote has come in handy very often.
My advice, I always, always have on me a short but very thick (2cm diameter) smooth brush made originally for drawing stuff. Every single time before I change my lens (especially outside), I brush the whole area around the mount, flip the camera and use the blower. It just takes a few more seconds and it's the best way to minimize dust.
I have the same BlackRapid strap, the RS-4 Retro. I chose this one because it's the ONLY model (aside from the little backpack strap) that has a FRONT adjustment. This is game-changing because I can instantly cinch it up when I'm on the move, so it sits above my waist / against the front of my torso / stomach area. Zero flopping around and it allows me to be 95% hands-free when walking.
Simon,
I really do identify the suggestions you've made as "necessary" as I have them too. I also would add that having a USB-B to USB-C adapter could be effective when moving from computers with differing connectivity options. It helps with cable management and reduces the number of items to carry in the field or while vacationing.
In addition to your excellent suggestions, I think that a comfortable means of carrying camera kit is a necessity, because otherwise you will often leave your camera at home.
I used holster bags and shoulder bags for years, but often found myself leaving the camera at home because of neck strain. Beginners are often persuaded in stores to buy expensive holster or shoulder bags, but I have not met many photographers who use like to use them regularly for hours at a time.
I've recently bought a Tenba Solstice 10 sling bag. This has plenty of room for a Canon 6D, 24-105, 70-200 and 50mm plus accessories, including travel tripod storage on the outside of the bag. Key attributes of this bag for me are really fast access to the camera and all-day carrying comfort. My camera kit is now with me much more of the time!
Filters make all the difference when you want to get those glorious blurred river/waterfall shots in daytime, minimize reflections or make landscape photography easier when the sky is much brighter than the landscape. At least on older cameras like my Canon 60D that lack an automatic HDR mode.
There's also a massive difference between a generic store tripod and a proper photography one. That will cost more than a hundred bucks but I was blown away when I swapped my ordinary tripod for a Manfrotto. Cheaper tripods just can't handle wind as well, especially when you're using a heavier lens.
Great content as usual! Production quality is also top notch!
Full-frame sensor swabs work for APS-C sensors, too. Just swipe from top to bottom, instead of side to side.
On the subject of photo/video storage. I would recommend a HDD for long term storage. You have a better chance of recovering footage off a HDD over an SSD in the event of hardware failure. Also, SSDs can become de-energized over time and lose data. SSDs are great to work from because of their speeds, HDDs are great for reliability.
Other than a spare battery and the obvious lens cloth in my camera bag pouch, I carry a card reader with USB to USB C transfer cable. As my camera was made before wi-fi and Bluetooth connectivity became popular, this set up allows me to transfer the photos to my phone or tablet for quick sharing. A resize app on the phone is handy to reduce file size.
I would love to see Simon discuss the availability of post-processing software for those of us on a budget. I have never bought/used the more professional packages such as Photoshop, Light-Room, Capture One, etc. that require leasing with a monthly or annual payment.
When I started taking photographs, I used (What is now) "Corel's Paint Shop Pro" software. As camera's became more advanced, I added Corel's AfterShot Pro 3 software to process RAW files, and to allow me to "Focus Stack" images. These software packages are not "leased" products. You buy them once, and only upgrade as one deems necessary based on the need for any newly added features. Personally, I think that these Corel software packages are a "steal" based on the price verses the number of features available for the budget minded photographer to use to post process their photographs.
However, I am not looking at these Corel Software Packages from the standpoint of a professional photographer such as Simon. Therefore, it would be great to get Simon's input on what he thinks of these products. The discussion could include whether Simon thinks the Corel packages have a sufficient number of available options to handle the needs of many (most?) "hobby type" photographers without having to lease the more commercial packages mentioned above.
Thank you for reading and considering my suggestion(s).
I use a sensor protector filter. An Internal, clip-in clear filter that prevents dust getting on the sensor and is easier to clean and if damaged much less expensive than a damaged sensor.
Computer Science student here, HDDs are actually better for long term backup storage than SSDs because SSDs lose data faster when they aren’t being used compared to HDDs. Want to know what’s even better than HDDs or SSDs? DVDs and CDs. They’re a pain to use but they’re super reliable. That being said, an SSD will work well for a backup, but there’s better options to consider.
For the side sling, RRS plates have QD attachment points which makes them compatible with rifle slings. You can also attach a QD point to a hand strap so it can be quickly removed when switching to a tripod.
Nice turn around talking about essentials Simon. I have 2 more:
1. Peak Design's camera clip. If you uses a backpack in the field and see a shot you quickly want to take without taking off your backpack and getting your camera, the clip is easy. Your camera can fit on your shoulder strap while walking and easily can be removed and used.
2. I'm old school and always carry a basic shutter release cable even though you have much more high tech methods. Call it peace of mind.
The Intervalometer also works as a cable release for tripod shots with long exposures. Great tips Simon.
for beginners i would add ;
a hood for every objective to protect it from bumps
a small tripod
a remote control to take pictures without holding the camera
a polarising filter
I couldn’t agree more on the storage backup. I lost 4 years’ of photos due to failed hard drive that sits on my PC for years, it already showed signs of failing but I was not paying much attention at the time.
Nowadays I had a 5tb external HDD to work at home and carry around. Not as fast as SSD but that will work for me. Good thing is I only plug it in if I wanted to work on the photos.
Will definitely go for SSD once my current storage fills up.
Thanks for the great video as always!
For me, remote release. Cheap and easy to carry. It really helps when you spend a lot of time looking through the viewfinder waiting for that crucial moment. With a remote release, you don't have to touch your camera which risks creating shake/vibration. Works well for both stills and video. Sage advice re power bank. Great for powering your camera in the field if you're doing something battery intensive.
Completely agree with a LED light especially for food photography where sometimes the lighting indoors can be too dark to get a good shot. I used to buy lenses that worked well in low light to try help fix the problem but never really solved the issue. A LED light just enabled me to use any lens I want regardless of the lighting condition.
A NAS that supports FTP is a game changer for me. Able to backup my photo from my camera to my nas drive directly saves my alot of time. And able to access it from my computer instantly as I'm shooting in the studio is such a blessing to have. 😂
One of my favourite cheap camera accessories that I recently purchased from Amazon was a 65 inch joilcan tripod because not only does it have a quick release for the camera plate but it came with two plates so if you carry two cameras it is very quick and easy to switch between the cameras and the tripod was only around £30
A reliable multitool with a belt clip or pouch is so handy to loosen tripod screws or extract stuck SD cards, to remove a shard from skin, or to tighten the screws of a cage. So many applications.
A big part of dust on the sensor is from the back of the lens and the area around the lens cap keep those areas clean and you will eliminate a lot of dust as there is always dust in your camera bag.
i always use a brush or a microfiber to wipe off the area around the back of the lens and also the area around the camera mount before swapping out a lens..
I've never had to clean the sensor on my Olympus em5 mkii, the inbuilt ultra sonic sensor cleaning works amazing! ( I do take care though when swopping lenses). A cheap accessory in my camera bag is a rubber band, very handy in case screw on filters get stuck, just put the rubber band around the ring, grip it and loosen. (yes magnetic filters would be nice :)
Practical and straightforward content clearly presented (as usual) - keep up the great work!
Agreed!
Best accessory I got was merino wool photography gloves with magnetic clips on the thumbs and index fingers paid about $90 CAD on sale think regular price was about $110 CAD made winter photography far more enjoyable in Manitoba. A blower and lens pen are probably my two most used accessories.
...continued.
2) Flash defuser. I use a simple one that you just pull onto the lens barrel. Not much good if you haven't yet invested in a flashgun, of course, so get a flash first. Like a Godox or a YongNuo, unless you absolutely want the name brand.
3) Raynox macro conversion lens. If you don't wish to invest in a real macro lens, the Raynox is a good place to start.
I'd include on your list a good camera bag. I understand how that might not apply to your style with 600mm monster lenses. But I try to always have my camera handy for those random shots of opportunity. Having a core shooting setup ready to go in one place is pretty helpful.
As for favorite accessory... By far my most used camera accessory is the pd quick-clip. Not affiliated with them or anything, but definitely worth checking out. It does what it says on the box. Quick. Clip. The base has a couple of screws and a plate, you just bolt it to the shoulder strap of your backpack and you attach the arca swiss plate to the bottom of the camera. Done. Snaps in, holds my 7D mkII with a whopper of a lens (Zenitar, at about 700 grams) very securely, unlocks with the push of a button. I have no issues trusting it to hold the camera tightly when cycling through the local woods, climbing minor obstacles like rocks and whatnot, just generally wandering about. I'm more concerned about the zoom lense's little lock latch unlocking and having the lens extend at random. So... yeah, the peak design is not the cheapest accessory I own (that honor goes to the blower), but it's most certainly the most used one.
As a new hobby photographer (About 2 months now), I've bought the biggest card I could (SanDisk 32gb Extreme), a portable, brandname card reader (Kingston MobileLite Plus) and will be buying an inexpensive camera shoulder bag (Don't have extra lenses yet, just my D3100 and Nikon 18-55 VR f/3.5-5.6.
Might buy the lens hood, a cleaning kit and possibly some filters next.
I’ve been using a peak design capture clip on and off for the past 5 years or so. The last year I haven’t gone anywhere without it! Whether I’m skiing, hiking, climbing or just chilling it’s always been very useful. Has helped me capture multiple Moose pictures this winter and spring. Great video, just subscribed and looking forward to more! 😁
All good stuff. I was using a shoulder sling too but I am short and never seemed to get it right ( too many clips etc.) so I started using one of my guitar straps. Cheap and super comfortable.
My most useful, inexpensive accessory is a roll of gaffer tape (or duck/duct tape).
And specifically in a studio, a dummy battery so the camera is connected directly to a USB charger. It means I can work for as long as I like and take as many photos as I like without having to think about changing batteries.
If you're cheap or can't find a compatible intervalometer and you happen to have a camera that uses a jack port for the intervalometer than plugging in a simple jack cable and tying the stereo left side to ground will trigger the camera. (I only tried this on my Cannon EOS 350D because I wanted to try astrophotography and I couldn't find a compatible intervalometer.) To get basically the same effect as an intervalometer set the camera to burst mode and set your shutter speed. Sadly you can't controll the time between shots but it works pretty well apart from that.
Excellent advise! My first digital camera (a Toshiba PDR-M5 compact camera) I purchased in the late nineties. Memory cards where very expensive and had limited storage. During a 2 month trip to Australia I had to aggressively delete and lower the quality of images during the trip. After that I bought a portable HD that was both a music player and storage for photos, problems sorted. Nowadays I just fit every device with a large memory card so they are always ready to use (I move everything to my laptop after each session). On some trips I don't bring my laptop but a Chromebook, I'm thinking of putting in a large 1TB micro SD card (or several if I shoot video) to backup everything after a day shooting. At home everything is backed up to my Nextcloud server and several external drives.
As for straps, the straps that arrive with cameras are not the best. Yesterday I went on a 6km walk with two camera around my neck and my (mostly empty) camera bag. as well. My neck is still sore, even though I use them mostly as shoulder straps, but you can't shoot fast. Need to investigate something better :)
Enjoy your trip to Botswana, it's going to be amazing!
It will!
Another idea for powering your camera, I have something called a dummy battery. It looks like a usual battery except its much lighter and has a cable attached to it, I simply insert the cable in an external power source and my camera jumps to life!
I use one in my studio cam
So seldom discussed as what you presented here Simon. It's almost like "we" don't talk about the stuff in plain sight, but matters. Great work.
The blower was a life changer for me. I always have it in my pocket and I use to clean my lens too.
Another top notch watch, thank you. As a lifelong watcher of all things natural but only a fairly recent digital camera user my tip is 100% free. Patience. Time spent watching and listening is time well spent, turning those opportunistic grab shots we often get whilst walking through into more consistent better quality results.
Bon Voyage Simon! No doubt you will be well prepared and make the most of it. Looking forward to your return and resulting content.
Personally I highly recommend spare batteries from SmallRig. They make them for Nikon now, both in the EN-EL15C and EN-EL25 flavor, and the best part is that the battery itself has a USB-C port. So you can charge them directly through a power bank, no separate battery charger required.
There are other brands that do the same but SmallRig batteries charge faster. I have two of them. By the time the spare is empty the first battery is recharged again. So I can keep shooting indefinitely with just two batteries!
Peak design makes a really nice camera strap that has a more conventional shoulder strap with stiffer straps that distribute the load really well!
I would say if you are buying 1tb ssd instead of buying another ssd to mirror the firs one, buy HDD 2-4TB, even if something happens to the HDD, you can recover 90-100% back - had to do it last month :D ssd works differently, i would presume that you can do that as well but you wont get all back as with hdd
Microfibre cloths! Definitely have one or two of those in my bag. 😎
I had owned my fx3 for exactly one week when I had a sneezing fit during a lens swap! I totally learned how to clean that censor.... and fast!
Thank you. Like your choices. I would only add getting a “QD” or Quick Disconnect attachment connector for my Black Rapid camera sling or other strap and adding a SmallRig or other camera base plate from RRS, Kirk or Leafoto for both tripod attachment and QD socket. Can also put a QD connector on Peak Design straps to turn them into sling style. Black Rapid also has straps now where QD is shipped with it.
Also saw someone recommending a wrist strap and couldn’t agree more. I have the Peak Design one for every body and also use a few more sophisticated hand straps on some of my bigger, heavier camera bodies. Take care.
Before you go shopping for an intervalometer it is worth checking if your camera has it already built in (Canon calls it "Interval timer", and you'll find it in the menu next to the "Bulb timer", another useful tool).
Before you buy you should check if your gear is compatible too. I put a hot shoe cup on my old Canon camera and it went nuts. Turns out you need a cup with a cut out otherwise it triggers a sensor and the camera is acting as a flash is installed so you can't choose high shutter speed.
The cardboard tube in the centre of a toilet roll can be put between a reversed 50mm lens and the body of a film camera and used for macro photography.
I get a lot of mileage out of cloth pencil cases. They come in colours, you can write on them (sharpie is best), they fit where they shouldn't (corners etc) and I can separate different bits and parts and cables and batteries etc.. I get mine at a local dollar type store.
thanks, i now plan to get a portable ssd for back up, dummy battries is now my new focus instead of buying new batteries, i can atleast trust the power in the powerbank.
Can't say this enough, really the best photography videos for me. Some people just talk and don't show examples, some people just try to sell you things, and more. Greatly appreciate your approach honestly!
Would you recommend quick release straps? I don't like walking around without a strap but also don't like shooting with it as it gets in the way.
I’ve never used one, but they’re quite popular, so probably good
@@simon_dentremont gotcha. Thanks!
I don’t use long heavy lenses so the Peak Design clip for my smaller Nikon Z6ii for roaming around, especially with a backpack on while on a hike. Makes it easy to grab and it’s not constantly whacking you in the chest.
FWIW: If you are going to be without power for days at a time ( while on safari or hiking the Pacific Crest Trail, for example ), there are external battery packs that have a built in solar panel for less than $100.
True, but a lot of them are gimmicks and are nowhere near efficient enough to charge the bank fully after a days Sun.
Always your videos are like a lessons in a classroom at home. It's an amazing tutorial. I like your teachings as they are just transparent and crystal clear and no hidden agenda in that. Great Simon. I could find and subscribe your channel since long time. So inspirational teacher. Making the photography more interesting and fearless. Thanks 🙏👏
I have a few of the Sandisk SSDs, tough, water, dust and shock resistant, and often on sale. I have used them all over the world with me without a single failure, ever. I use those exact sensor swabs, effective and easy to use. I have versions of all those other accessories you recommend also. Been doing this as a pro for 50 years. . Cheers and thanks Simon
My favourite inexpensive and extremely useful item I take with me when out and about isn't a purely photo item but is a cheap Chinese made 20.000 mAh power bank that cost around £20.00 because it's really useful for recharging all my tech in the middle of nowhere so their is plenty of spare power for my phone camera and even my rechargable flashlight
The convenience of small things is priceless. You left out Monopod, that one legged item is a real gem. Unlike the tripod you can even easily use it for overhead shots and drone like shots. They are dead cheap for a decently built one.
I saw this months after you posted. When cleaning mirrorless cameras with sensor stabilization, turn this off or lock it to prevent damage to the device.
In general, I don't swap lenses.
For memory cards I have a system. Left pocket is unused cards. Right pocket is used cards.
When I travel, I charge my devices in the car. I have a one to many adapter, so I can charge several devices concurrently.
I also have at least two USB chargers for connecting to the grid.
Thank you, SImon! When I purchased two SSD cards, it came with a carrier. Two birds, one shot. And my emergency automobile jump starter has USB and USB/C outlets. Bonus!
As mentioned bellow, SSD is great for on the go storage, but HDD is better for long term, stationary backup. They are both so cheap that this shouldn't be one or other, but one and other.
Intervalometer is great thing. O have one which can be used as wired remote too (even without batteries) with shutter lock for bulb mode, it has 2.5 mm female jack on the cable end and separate adapter for camera, which is great for people using more cameras with different jacks. Only downside if not having power switch, meaning it will empty battery if left for few months. But I usually put little bit of plastic under battery to prevent this.
About powerbank, some cameras don't have option for running on cable, but do have cutout on battery door intended for "dummy batter" - device that have format of battery and cable for powering from external source. I use this solution for timelapses and astrophotography - when I'm static on tripod. Usually, I add powerbank as additional weight on tripod hook.
All these tips you pass on will help people enjoy photography even more as they will have the essentials in place. Another possible tip would be memory cards. Always have too many because it is surprising just how quickly they fill up
5:35 even if your camera does not support USB power delivery, often you can get a dummy battery for about 10-20 EUR/USD and power the camera from the power bank.
I'm delighted that your coming to Botswana. You're going to have an amazing time Simon. Simply the best place wildlife photo opportunities. And incredible bird life to photograph.
Intervalometer sounds like a must have for a lot of things. Thanks!
I started studying photography on a creative college/highschool in The Netherlands. The first thing they learn you is to use your SSD correctly, organise it and make backups. Imagine losing all your hard work.
I had a Rapid cross strap that the swivel pulled through, fortunately I was holding the tripod mount on the lens! Great straps but be aware and keep checking it
Loved this video for less seasoned photographers like me. Please keep periodically making these type vids, sir!
I use to have to hunt for my SD cards as well, I got tired of it so I bought my self a SD card wallet and as I find them I stick them right into the wallet I didn't realize I had so many just from the years of getting combo packs where a camera comes with 1 or Walmart clearance sales or family giving them to me because they no longer use them.
I also recommend if you have an old laptop just sitting around look up videos on how to turn it into a NAS it will allow you to have things backed up automatically and you can access it with any device on the network and most OSs that are NAS oriented are free to use and work well with low end hardware.
Great video! I have been photographing for almost 40 years and these tips are still useful to me. I haven’t started to do these things although I have so many times decited to so it’s good to get these great reminders from one of my favorite youtuber.
Excellent video Simon!
I have used the sensor cleaning products from Visible Dust (Canmore, AB) for many years. In addition to cleaning swabs and fluids, they make a lighted magnifier so that you can actually see the particles and then know exactly where they are on the sensor. The large magnifier is called Quasar and the flat portable version is the Mini Quasar. After using the blower bulb (I use their Zeeion blower with attached filter to prevent the blower from blowing dust onto the sensor), I use their Arctic Butterfly to gently wipe the sensor. This is a special brush with fibers that are statically charged to "catch" the dust particles. Plus it has a light so that you see exactly where you are wiping the sensor.
A clean sensor makes for a happy photographer!
With dirty lens caps come dirty lenses. To prevent it I like to put my lens caps in a zip lock bag when not on the lens.
Keeping a lenshood on at all times is also an easy way to prevent dust, dirt and damage to the front element.
I would add a pocket note book with pen. I’ll make a note and photo it to keep track of locations or sequences. In a pinch it’s a white card.
Great tips Simon. My contribution is to have some duck tape for those emergency repairs in the field. You can wind a few strips around a pen or pencil and it takes up minimal room in a camera bag.
I bought a Canon 750D last week. Came with a battery grip, two batteries, 3 lenses. It was a used camera, but it only had a total of 6200 shots on the shutter. Spent 350£/375$. I was going to buy a Canon R10 but ended up opting for an older camera in order to get access to more gear for the same price. Sold two of the 3 lenses that came with the camera and kept a 55-250mm. Went on the used market, bought myself a 24mm 2.8 and a 50mm 1.8, used as new. Spent 110£/125$. Got myself a decent bag, tripod, intervalometer and a variable ND filter. Also bought a decent 128gb SD card and a USB-c card reader.. Got myself another spare canon battery, original. All added up spent just over 600£/650$
FYI - I store my photos in a SSD backup that I place in a Fireproof Safe (you can pick these up at Target fairly inexpensive). This way my main copy is always separate and safe from my main system.
My favorite accessory for my R6 is a pro media gear L bracket, I absolutely love it! PLX3T
I put small lens hoods with vents type to all my lenses mainly not because to prevent flare, but to protect the lens. I don't use lens filter. The vent is useful to tie lens cap to it so I will never lose it. The size of lens cap must be 2 or 3 mm less than the lens filter diameter because of already attached lens hood.
I need a card wallet! However, instead of a strap, I would recommend a quick release latching system that can clip onto a back-pack. I always use a lightweight backpack for my extra lenses when I go shooting. I very much recommend something like the Peak Design unit, though I'm not particularly fond of the entirety of the Peak Design ecosystem mainly because of cost. There are lower cost alternatives as well. Once you go with a clip system, you'll never look back.
Inexpensive and just as good lights are cheap 30-40 EURO lights made by Neweer, Ulanzi and Andoer. Honorable mention also goes t VIJIM. Some of the models also come with effects and cost a third of the price of the ones you find nearly everyone recommending.
Peak Design Capture Clip V3 is an excellent way to hang a camera and still have easy and quick access with top notch security. You could also hang your camera from the belt using this clip with a vertical mount point for your belt such as a small pouch with vertical straps.
While rocket/standard blowers are cheap and relatively effective, Nitecore BlowerBaby is even better. What it does better is that it provides more precision with the blows, has much more power, requires no squeezing, sometimes takes up less space, and most of all provides two different filters to ensure that you don't get any dust on your sensor or other optical component. V2 even adds a built in brush and built in LED light.