I have one of these cardboard doors from WD. I have been limping this a long for way too long. The pull ripped from the door. They where glued on by the way. I ended up having to drill through the door put steel on both sides and reattach my pull.
Good to know, although Bought house with (3) car garage Book says 9100,9400 and 9600 TorqueMaster and ProDrive 3220C Openers. These where installed in 2008. (13) years ago. One door is used daily, sometimes several time a day in winter. Just now replaced broken roller. Fortunate and lucky.
17 year old builder grade door. ALSO THE STRONGEST DOOR ON THE MARKET FOR THE BUCK! I was part of the F* the WD9100 crowd. I had sold about 3 BLOCKS (30 houses) worth of CADILLAC doors (early 2000’s Raynor Affina (2” polyurethane STEELBACK r 18) & Relante (1-3/8” “ same” r 12.12) high end stuff right. Anyways we had a microburst (mini tornado) hit this area. You know EVERYONE OF MY DOORS FAILED STRUCTURALLY! But the ONE 9100 on the block, ONLY HAD COSMETIC DAMAGE due to hail. It changed me that day. Everyone of my $2,000 (circa 2000-2005) doors failed but not the double integrated strut 9100! When you can’t beat them join them! I primarily sell full sandwich steel polyurethane product in PHOENIX AZ! As mentioned before I been selling top end doors for DECADES! Tommy/A1 (coming to a city near you soon!) & Precision Door (yea the bad guys, PHX BASED!) they barely caught my wave about 2 years ago. EVERYBODY ELSE SELL STRATFORD 1000 & equivalent in this city cheap as they can is what this market moves. The 9100 with torsion (springs I use atleast) have a 35,000 cycle life, buy sections only + add your rollers/cables/torsion kit to your liking and SELL SERVICE! Good door, mid grade door, SHITTY DOOR! They ALL FAIL W/O service ALL SPRINGS FATIGUE AND LOSE TENSION! So tell the customer as you sell them their quality door IT NEEDS SERVICE! (No one else will! You already look the better choice because you are the only telling them what they don’t want to hear/don’t know! Maintained springs, in between replacement will Alleviate 90% of problems. Spring lift from the heaviest steel point on the door the bottom fixture. The motor is meant to glide the door back and forth NOT LIFT DEAD WEIGHT. When springs fatigue LESS AND LESS LIFT HAPPENS from the heavy bottom fixture and from the bottom up moment. In turn less of the doors weight is suspended through the doors operation, non ball bearing rollers add to this new found DRAG/gravity. This is what CAUSES disproportionate redistribution of the weight wherever god feels it should/can go. So we see crooked hinges that carry rollers we sent cracks and tears in the sections. It’s most pronounced in most case from the center stile/operator bracket down because when there is less lift from the bottom up there is more PULLING from the TOP DOWN! Hence the damage you see on ALL products in service that don’t get maintained. As for doors that can take the bearing of 2 DECADES of USE W/o service that’s not a sign of a higher quality product that’s a sign of a death trap! When nothing is designed to fail under OVERLOAD you’re waiting for an accident to happen! Thank god the 9100 will fall apart under 15 years of lack of maintenance! It could prevent a death or serious bodily injury! You’ll find no more doors will just work and work for decades without service THANKS TO 99% of NEW MOTORS having travel modules & dc motors. These motors are going to stop working MUCH sooner than an A/C motor front the past 100 years because they are constantly watching how fast/much force is exerted between 8-32 times between open/close. They recalibrate every 10 cycles or so to compensate for small NORMAL spring relaxation over the course of a year. But when a non ball bearing roller GIVES UP or a hinge goes crooked. It will stop rather than running through the problem. If the homeowner or simpleton technician doesn’t fix the problem and resets the travel/force it will now start at this higher force setting from the new calibration, DEATH SENTENCE! Imagine homeowner with broken torquemaster goes to Home Depot buys a new motor cus his old “pos broke after 15 years LOL” now he has a 130lb door with only one of two springs lifting say 65lb lifting necessary. His dc motor has more than enough torque, so he profiles the motors travel etc. Second spring breaks, “my new POS quit” but I watched tech vid and reset it! Now it’s good, now his grandkid gets stuck under his door with no springs and homeowner MAXED force profile! Plan the funeral. That’s a worst case obviously but you are a pro and seem to be a good one, won’t happen on your watch! DONT beat up Poot old 9100’s they’re in 3 out of 4 NEW BUILDS IN THE USA. By volume alone there’s not a more consistent product on earth. Clopay (which I sell, Amarr, WD 8300-8500 etc etc) NOBODY has those numbers! Same with the genie I talked of in the other videos. 3outta 4 houses get them. Consistent quality nobody can balk at. Great video brotha
Wayne Dalton definitely has some models that are pretty decent but they also have some models that are pretty much gimmicks and pure garage. I installed Raynor doors for quite a few years and even their budget/builders grade doors were of fairly decent quality.
Just like any brand of door manufacturer . All have a low end style door. I call these builders doors since many new construction homes have low end doors in them.This model is just a low end insulated door used in many Sub divisions
I have a single & double Wayne Dalton doors w/w installed 7/2000. We had an issue maybe in 2007, but nothing since then. No issues with hinges or motor. My only issue is the noise... and the almost... no insulation
Having to replace my Wayne Dalton 9100 after less than 2 years of use. Opener malfunctioned one time and it was enough to make these cheap doors irreparable. Thanks for the info.
I need to replace my doors. And I was about to buy these doors I’m doing my homework for it .. I’m glad I found your review can you recommend good Reliable doors.
I've got a Wayne Dalton door. Not sure what model it is though. The Wayne Dalton opener is crap. I was in the process of replacing it with a Genie opener when I discovered that my torquemaster spring on the right side is broken. Its been operating on just the left-hand spring for who knows how long. Could be why the opener decided to crap out. My question is this: Rather than replacing the torquemaster springs, would it be possible/do you recommend switching to regular torsion springs?
I have a double spring WD door and the right side assembly is making a loud squeaking noise when operating. Do you think it has too much tension on the spring? It’s about 8 years old and the noise just started.
Oil goes along ways with doors. I would try spraying the rollers and end bearing plates. Don't forget to spray the springs they do wear against each other when in motion. Keep a eye out for any metal shavings as that's a indication sometimes is wearing incorrectly. Good luck 👍
So my experience 9,000 series doors: they are not a very durable door. The paper back doors are the worst if you have any hardware issues that damage the door. I get it, its designed to be very light weight. You can with little force dent or damage them. The motor/gear and belt system have been great for 17 years. The rollers on two doors had to be replaced at 6 & 7 years. Cable Drums failed at 10 years Bracket failed at 12 years and ripped off the top bracket from the door. Quick release arm and the bracket really are a design flaw, there should be a point where it disconnects after certain amount of force on the door when the motor is engaged of course.
You are correct on the 3800 loved them. I just perfect metal bottom retainers not plastic. I also like when manufacturer puts the bottom retainers and rubber seal on it so my subs don't have to in the field. Good insight.
@@affordabledoorgatellc7391 the WAYNE DALTON 83!!00 is available with aluminum bottom retainer. You can order it that way OR order the door from the Portland plant vs. Mt Hope* just an FYI
At this time I have been installing Clopay garage doors at my house. I like the bottom seal. Just remember to up grade the hardware to heavy duty hinges and get nylon rolling ball bearing rollers. Stick with a model that is 2" thick it can be non insulated or insulated. You should find happiness with that. Thanks and good luck.
I have a Wayne Dalton door. How do you know if it is a 9100 or 9600 model. Mine was installed in 2004. It is insulated and looks similar to the one you were working on. Without the damage. Mine is 8x16 colonial with Cascade I windows.
9100 is a vinyl back or paper back is what some guys call them. 9600 is a steel back. So if you look at the inside of the door you will be able to tell. Cheers.
The panels I have ok luck with but ya If sell a 9100 or 9600 I recommend spending more money to get torsion instead of the stupid torque master and ball bearing roller instead of the crappy black plastic ones
Well, howdy. That stinks. I have just purchased a 9100 and am going to be installing soon. Modifying my 16' hernia-inducing wooden door with a 9' WD door. You did not give a product recommendation. You just pee'd all over my choice. How about a recommendation. Thanks.
You will be fine just move in 10 years lol. They are just a middle of the road door. I always recommend a 2” thick door. 8500 is my choice with Wayne Dalton.
Thank you for information. I have 9100 door and was thinking to replace section or door. I will replace the door with different brand.
I have one of these cardboard doors from WD. I have been limping this a long for way too long. The pull ripped from the door. They where glued on by the way. I ended up having to drill through the door put steel on both sides and reattach my pull.
Thanks for the heads-up, I'm actually looking to replace my garage door.
Good to know, although Bought house with (3) car garage Book says 9100,9400 and 9600 TorqueMaster and ProDrive 3220C Openers. These where installed in 2008. (13) years ago. One door is used daily, sometimes several time a day in winter. Just now replaced broken roller. Fortunate and lucky.
17 year old builder grade door. ALSO THE STRONGEST DOOR ON THE MARKET FOR THE BUCK! I was part of the F* the WD9100 crowd. I had sold about 3 BLOCKS (30 houses) worth of CADILLAC doors (early 2000’s Raynor Affina (2” polyurethane STEELBACK r 18) & Relante (1-3/8” “ same” r 12.12) high end stuff right. Anyways we had a microburst (mini tornado) hit this area. You know EVERYONE OF MY DOORS FAILED STRUCTURALLY! But the ONE 9100 on the block, ONLY HAD COSMETIC DAMAGE due to hail. It changed me that day. Everyone of my $2,000 (circa 2000-2005) doors failed but not the double integrated strut 9100! When you can’t beat them join them! I primarily sell full sandwich steel polyurethane product in PHOENIX AZ! As mentioned before I been selling top end doors for DECADES! Tommy/A1 (coming to a city near you soon!) & Precision Door (yea the bad guys, PHX BASED!) they barely caught my wave about 2 years ago. EVERYBODY ELSE SELL STRATFORD 1000 & equivalent in this city cheap as they can is what this market moves. The 9100 with torsion (springs I use atleast) have a 35,000 cycle life, buy sections only + add your rollers/cables/torsion kit to your liking and SELL SERVICE! Good door, mid grade door, SHITTY DOOR! They ALL FAIL W/O service ALL SPRINGS FATIGUE AND LOSE TENSION! So tell the customer as you sell them their quality door IT NEEDS SERVICE! (No one else will! You already look the better choice because you are the only telling them what they don’t want to hear/don’t know! Maintained springs, in between replacement will
Alleviate 90% of problems. Spring lift from the heaviest steel point on the door the bottom fixture. The motor is meant to glide the door back and forth NOT LIFT DEAD WEIGHT. When springs fatigue LESS AND LESS LIFT HAPPENS from the heavy bottom fixture and from the bottom up moment. In turn less of the doors weight is suspended through the doors operation, non ball bearing rollers add to this new found DRAG/gravity. This is what CAUSES disproportionate redistribution of the weight wherever god feels it should/can go. So we see crooked hinges that carry rollers we sent cracks and tears in the sections. It’s most pronounced in most case from the center stile/operator bracket down because when there is less lift from the bottom up there is more PULLING from the TOP DOWN! Hence the damage you see on ALL products in service that don’t get maintained. As for doors that can take the bearing of 2 DECADES of USE W/o service that’s not a sign of a higher quality product that’s a sign of a death trap! When nothing is designed to fail under OVERLOAD you’re waiting for an accident to happen! Thank god the 9100 will fall apart under 15 years of lack of maintenance! It could prevent a death or serious bodily injury! You’ll find no more doors will just work and work for decades without service THANKS TO 99% of NEW MOTORS having travel modules & dc motors. These motors are going to stop working MUCH sooner than an A/C motor front the past 100 years because they are constantly watching how fast/much force is exerted between 8-32 times between open/close. They recalibrate every 10 cycles or so to compensate for small NORMAL spring relaxation over the course of a year. But when a non ball bearing roller GIVES UP or a hinge goes crooked. It will stop rather than running through the problem. If the homeowner or simpleton technician doesn’t fix the problem and resets the travel/force it will now start at this higher force setting from the new calibration, DEATH SENTENCE! Imagine homeowner with broken torquemaster goes to Home Depot buys a new motor cus his old “pos broke after 15 years LOL” now he has a 130lb door with only one of two springs lifting say 65lb lifting necessary. His dc motor has more than enough torque, so he profiles the motors travel etc. Second spring breaks, “my new POS quit” but I watched tech vid and reset it! Now it’s good, now his grandkid gets stuck under his door with no springs and homeowner MAXED force profile! Plan the funeral. That’s a worst case obviously but you are a pro and seem to be a good one, won’t happen on your watch! DONT beat up Poot old 9100’s they’re in 3 out of 4 NEW BUILDS IN THE USA. By volume alone there’s not a more consistent product on earth. Clopay (which I sell, Amarr, WD 8300-8500 etc etc) NOBODY has those numbers! Same with the genie I talked of in the other videos. 3outta 4 houses get them. Consistent quality nobody can balk at. Great video brotha
Wayne Dalton definitely has some models that are pretty decent but they also have some models that are pretty much gimmicks and pure garage. I installed Raynor doors for quite a few years and even their budget/builders grade doors were of fairly decent quality.
Just like any brand of door manufacturer . All have a low end style door. I call these builders doors since many new construction homes have low end doors in them.This model is just a low end insulated door used in many Sub divisions
I have a single & double Wayne Dalton doors w/w installed 7/2000. We had an issue maybe in 2007, but nothing since then. No issues with hinges or motor. My only issue is the noise... and the almost... no insulation
Having to replace my Wayne Dalton 9100 after less than 2 years of use. Opener malfunctioned one time and it was enough to make these cheap doors irreparable. Thanks for the info.
Dang sorry to hear that good luck on the next door. Thanks
I need to replace my doors. And I was about to buy these doors I’m doing my homework for it .. I’m glad I found your review can you recommend good Reliable doors.
Thanks dude for sharing I just canceled my order lol :)
Would anybody know what the R-value is for these old paper back doors circa 2005?
No clue sorry
9.6
Builder grade garage door. Fast install. in and out. If me got chi model 2283 great build door
That's good to know
2001? That’s actually a pretty good of a long time.
I've got a Wayne Dalton door. Not sure what model it is though. The Wayne Dalton opener is crap. I was in the process of replacing it with a Genie opener when I discovered that my torquemaster spring on the right side is broken. Its been operating on just the left-hand spring for who knows how long. Could be why the opener decided to crap out.
My question is this: Rather than replacing the torquemaster springs, would it be possible/do you recommend switching to regular torsion springs?
For sure change it over to a standard Torsion Spring that way you can see it broke next time.
So what door do you recommend?
Just do your home work. Most of the time you get what you pay for. Good luck.
Would it help to add a steel bracing across each panel section?
Sure wouldn't hurt but to many and the door can get heavy since springs are not calibrated for it
I have a double spring WD door and the right side assembly is making a loud squeaking noise when operating. Do you think it has too much tension on the spring? It’s about 8 years old and the noise just started.
Oil goes along ways with doors. I would try spraying the rollers and end bearing plates. Don't forget to spray the springs they do wear against each other when in motion. Keep a eye out for any metal shavings as that's a indication sometimes is wearing incorrectly. Good luck 👍
AFFORDABLE DOOR & GATE LLC thank you. I’ll try that.
So my experience 9,000 series doors: they are not a very durable door. The paper back doors are the worst if you have any hardware issues that damage the door.
I get it, its designed to be very light weight. You can with little force dent or damage them.
The motor/gear and belt system have been great for 17 years.
The rollers on two doors had to be replaced at 6 & 7 years.
Cable Drums failed at 10 years
Bracket failed at 12 years and ripped off the top bracket from the door.
Quick release arm and the bracket really are a design flaw, there should be a point where it disconnects after certain amount of force on the door when the motor is engaged of course.
So true!
Wayne dalton 3800 is a better quality, or if you would a quality door Hass is a good door
You are correct on the 3800 loved them. I just perfect metal bottom retainers not plastic. I also like when manufacturer puts the bottom retainers and rubber seal on it so my subs don't have to in the field. Good insight.
@@affordabledoorgatellc7391 the WAYNE DALTON 83!!00 is available with aluminum bottom retainer. You can order it that way OR order the door from the Portland plant vs. Mt Hope* just an FYI
I have 3 doors to replace. 10x10 size. What brand do you recommend? I am open to suggestions.
At this time I have been installing Clopay garage doors at my house. I like the bottom seal. Just remember to up grade the hardware to heavy duty hinges and get nylon rolling ball bearing rollers. Stick with a model that is 2" thick it can be non insulated or insulated. You should find happiness with that. Thanks and good luck.
@@affordabledoorgatellc7391 Thank you much
CHI or Haas Doors is my recommendation
Did it have a torque master spring too?
Sure did but I was surprised it was still in good work order.
Sure did.
I have a Wayne Dalton door. How do you know if it is a 9100 or 9600 model. Mine was installed in 2004. It is insulated and looks similar to the one you were working on. Without the damage. Mine is 8x16 colonial with Cascade I windows.
9100 is a vinyl back or paper back is what some guys call them. 9600 is a steel back. So if you look at the inside of the door you will be able to tell. Cheers.
The panels I have ok luck with but ya If sell a 9100 or 9600 I recommend spending more money to get torsion instead of the stupid torque master and ball bearing roller instead of the crappy black plastic ones
What brand of door do you recommend?
At this time I'm happy with clopay but you always need to do your research on the model. I like the saying you get what you pay for.
AFFORDABLE DOOR & GATE LLC
thank you very much!
@@affordabledoorgatellc7391 Meh I’ve seen damaged Clopay’s from the 2000s too.
Well, howdy. That stinks. I have just purchased a 9100 and am going to be installing soon. Modifying my 16' hernia-inducing wooden door with a 9' WD door. You did not give a product recommendation. You just pee'd all over my choice. How about a recommendation. Thanks.
You will be fine just move in 10 years lol. They are just a middle of the road door. I always recommend a 2” thick door. 8500 is my choice with Wayne Dalton.
how is the 8300?
That door looks like it had never been maintained! A bit of lube goes a long way…. Just my opinion.
I’ve seen Clopay’s last less than 10 years.
If you’re going to spend money on a Wayne dalton 9100, You might as well take a wad cash at the light on fire. Just my opinion
They work good for a week. I tell customers it's one step up from a blue tarp lol.
Same with Liftmaster openers. Sommer or nothing!
You'd be better taking $1000 out of your bank account and lighting it on fire then buying a 9100 door from Wayne Dalton.
Wayne Dalton doors are actually quiet and nice, BUT THERE OPENERS ARE ABSOLUTE JUNK!!!!!
They really do suck
... must be trying to sell c.h.i junk
Amarr doors are garbage.