Hey bud. My names Rob. I actually work on bobcats. The best way to get the machine clean especially since the engine is out is to go get any type of purple degreaser. Either zep or Castro. put it in a weed sprayer. Don’t dilute it. Use it straight and spray down the whole engine compartment. Do it dry. Then power wash it from the bottom up. It should get off a lot of the grease and soot. Also lift the cab up and spray down all of that as well at the same time. This way you can get a better look at all of the wiring and any flexible hydraulic lines that are accessible now. If you can do it with the machine has a little tilt backwards so all the water can run out of the back of the machine that is better. Just a word of caution. Now, if you’re going to lift the cab up and the bucket is not on the machine, make sure you put a jackstand on the back of the machine because it could possibly flip head over heels. I hope this helps and I enjoy the show very much.
Like there was any chance he was going to get rid of any obtainium. For the situations he finds himself in, everything has potential to save a project. 🤠
You could remove the flywheel and re-drill and tap it to accept the input shaft from the original motor, as for the engine mounts, bolt on the original mounts from the mower, and weld on spacers to locate it in the floor of the skid-steer, that way it'll have all the rubbers to take out the vibrations from the motor, and any torque twist, plumbing in the rad/water cooling should be no problem for a man with your renowned fabrication skills, it could even be mounted in the door, with an electric fan to cool it, Again another great video, that gets my own mind searching for solutions to the problems, just what a 67 year old retiree needs to keep his mind active. thank you again for the entertainment
Door mounting the rad was my fist thought as well. Hoses on a decently used machine should stay flexable enough to all a door mount. And if the probe removed from the mainfold was a thermo link, it could be the switch for the electric fsn. Just a thought from a tin whacking motor head.
With the red and black mounts from the mower, that engine will be easy to mount, no need to build a crazy mount like they had. The hard part is attaching it to the shaft. Everything else should be easy. Love your videos, Darren, keep them coming.
What always gets to me is I get so involved I will respond to your questions or statements aloud when you ask them. Despite being miles away at a different time, I am with you in spirit. These videos take me back to my youth helping my Dad as he taught me about autos and we had time together.
He not only directs the conversation to us but he even assigns us responsibilities. If we don’t holler when thing A gets wedged under thing B, it’s all our fault! 🤠
Fab up a two-piece motor mount: one that bolts to the machine's belly pan, and one that bolts to the engine. If you use 2" angle, you can make it so the entire engine slides in and out like a drawer, with two large bolts through the rails to keep it locked in place.
Hi Mustie, My husband Larry says you need a big fan that hooks onto the fly wheel and blows air up to the radiator through a plastic shroud to keep it cool. Otherwise it will overheat. Look on a Bobcat Manual. You will see the blower and the plastic shroud. I’ve got a 743 Bobcat has a stock diesel motor. Love your posts. I’ve learned a lot.
Hi Mustie. That is going to be great when you figure it out. A Bobcat is a very useful machine. I’m really looking forward to seeing you get it up and running. I never could get used to using the bucket/forks with my feet. You are one of the best fabricators that I’ve ever seen. I know you will get it going. Man, the anticipation is killing me, lol. Awesome video!!! Darren
Still running one of these with gas onan engine from the early eighties. Diesel Iseki ready to slot in now for ease of use. Never faltered, built like a tank, Also use a 45 year old 3 cyl Kubota mini tractor. Never faltered either. Getting toro stuff in the uk is not easy for old spares of course. Thanks for posting.
You are Awesome Mustie, you probably don’t realise just how much enjoyment and knowledge you give to so many people. Some great tips in the comments also. As always thanks for sharing with us all.👍
Ah, my Sunday always start right, 6AM, 2 XL coffees in front of me, and a Mustie 1 video. Makes my day start right ! There is a lot of work needed to get that engine happy in that spot, but it can be done, IMO.
Sounds like something Yogi Berra would have said. It's pretty funny when you think about it. Too bad @hjerteJerke2175 doesn't seem to have a sense of humor.
@@blowupbob1 After years of watching, I am not going to start picking a new "quote of the century for the week so far" from every video from here on out, because as you said it was very yogi-ish. Thank you for the entertainment M1
@@noneyabusiness8786 I was referring to Mustie's comment as being like something Yogi would say, and being funny. Now that you mention it, your comment "quote of the century for the week so far" is also very yogi-ish, and funny. Also I was defending you against @hjerteJerk's comment. Laughter is a wonderful thing. If you find something funny, share the wealth with others. It's a lot better than bitching about grammar and/or spelling!
Dear Mustie1. 👍👌👏 Congratulations 🎉 for purchasing the big ol' Toro lawnmower tractor. I bet that your skid steer will run great with the bigger Kubota Diesel engine. Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing. Best regards luck and health in particular.
Back in the early 70's I knew a guy that worked on Greyhound buses. Their engines slide out on a rail like a tool box drawer. To work on the motor you took out the lock down bolts and slid it out where you could reach everything and pushed it back in when your done. I wonder why bobcat never did that?
I've watched enough Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics to know that boom lifts are built that way - the engine pivots out of the machine on a tray to get to all of it. Of course it's only really coupled to the rest of the machine by hydraulic hoses as the pump comes with the engine.
What you pulled out at about 47min is called a capillary. On the other end of the line is a pressure gauge with a temperature scale. It's a similar system as used on fridges temperature control and those danfoss thermostats/pressostats.
Common in 'old school' apps. I prefer them as they eliminate one more piece of wiring, just have to be more conscientious handling them. As well they read constantly and presumably as or more consistently.
Excellent video Mustie1, a lot work to get the motor connections and the radiator. I agree that the fabrication of the socket to link the hydraulic bob cat pump to the diesel engine will be hard to do.
Since your not planning on a lot work outside in the mud cut a big enough space in the bottom plate so you got lot access to change the oil & the mount that they made just cut the side tabs loose & move them wider to fit the sides the block but remember got keep the crank centerline with the pump ! I wish some times i lived near you as there some projects you do that's hard for you i can do in few minutes but Indiana is a long way to drive from ! I do love all your video's i been watching since 2014/2015 & every Sunday first vid ill watch !
I like your project, I would start by measuring the distance from the floor plate to the center of the the input shaft where to coupler goes. Then set the engine on a flat bench, and make your mounts make the center of the center of the crank shaft the same distance as the input coupler, this creates a straight line (coupler to flywheel and front pulley.
Would love to see you get this engine to fit, get a machine shop to do the drive coupling so you don't get any alignment/vibration issues, but the rest you are a master at shoe horning big engine's into small spaces. The radiator could be mounted on a swing out frame behind the engine for access, you can use a fan on the water pump then too.
Darren, you're 2/3rds of the way there. Remove the angle-iron from the base plate and affix it to the machine, put the coupling on your lathe and mark the diameter for the new bolt pattern on the flywheel. Use the existing mounts for the engine to mount to the base plate, but the rear make up 2 brackets for the sides of the block. The front mount can then have a plate welded to it to mount the rad which will be high enough to clear the door when you close it
The fuel shut off works like the inlet shut off on a carburetor, it needs to see 12V to stay open, that's why the engine wouldn't shut down by the key in the mower, your jump pack on the starter solenoid kept the circuit hot. Safety feature like Westinghouse air brakes. If you put new liners and piston rings into the engine that was in there, you could save yourself some work, but the bigger engine will make things faster and more fun. God bless! 🙂
There's always 12V at the starter, no matter wheither it's connected via a jump pack or direct to the battery. The stop solenoid wiring was disconnected, and the solenoid on these machines defaults back to the run position a few seconds after shut down, so it was never going to kill the engine when the key was turned off. There is a larger capacitor in the control box that discharges through the stop solenoid when the key is turned off, actuates the solenoid for about 3-5 seconds to kill the engine, then once the capacitor has fully discharged the return spring in the solenoid returns it to the run position ready for next start👍 There's also a manual shut down lever on the side of the the injector pump, but I guess Mustie hasn't found that yet🤣
The engine from the toro is a Mitsubishi K3D. 21hp diesel. Good motor, easy to add auxiliary hydraulic pump to. Has provisions for it. Same motor in the Mitsubishi tractor.
I have seen them put the radiator in the rear door, and just create a Vent out the back with an electric fan.A lot better idea going to that little bit bigger motor! All looking really good glad the motor sounds good. All the best from Canada
I have a similar project at the moment, a bobcat 853 with the isuzu diesel. Traded for it with the engine already pulled and needing a rebuild. I've cleaned it, and that's about as far as I've gotten. You have given me motivation to start back on it with your videos. Thank you.
@@haneyoakie14 That isn't the fault of the mailman, that is the sorting facility. The Detroit one appears to be backed up, understaffed, and slow among other things.
That was a good mower. Ran one for a few years at a school district. They still use them today. And there is a switch to shut the fuel off and the dash board, the key does not shut off the motor.
Yeah! Finally some more diesel stuff. :) Btw: Isuzu turbos bolt on more or less for 10% more power.. nice sturdy cradle for it, and it will live a long and happy life. Do two brushless electric fans. Stock muffler might work..? Great project.
Since you have the engine out, Mustie, why not cut out a big access panel in the floor. I have a CAT 299, and it is really next to impossible to get the dirt out of the engine compartment. A big access panel, like an excavator has would be a big improvement, I think. By the way, the bungie cord when you pulled the engine out, was great!
This tube for the cooling temperature feeler. I think it's the same on my old massey ferguson traktor, it's metall tube filed with alcohol. It's expanding and contacting with temperature.
I've seen videos of people replacing their old broken engine with engines they've bought from old RV's at their local junk yard. The generator engines tend to have very little use as most people use the mains power hook up when they've been "Camping" . The Cummins 4bt or the 3 cylinder yanmar engines with a their small turbos kick out plenty enough Horse's for pretty much any skid steer or excavator, their dirt cheap for wot your getting as long as you don't tell the junk man wot you want it for as the price aways seems to go up. You can even use the same fuel p pumps as their run very similar in excavating equipment as they do set up as a generator either tick over or full rev's . Just in case anyone is looking for an engine. Alot of the time you can find the hole RV on market place with the diesel genset for £500 and talk them down then sell any good part of the RV and in doing so ya get the diesel engine your after for free .
Hey mustie1 back in the early 2000s I worked for a golf course and I operated an identical machine . That machine at least at the course I worked at was used for mowing the ruff when I first started at the golf course I had to help remove and replace the engine on that machine which we had 4 of them all in need of serious servicing. I will say the best way to remove and replace the engine is to use that fan jackshaft as you pick point .
My neighbor in NH went out and purchased the largest horizontal drive Predator engine he could and somehow made/modified a coupler for the pump. He bops around in that thing everytime it snows cleaning people's driveways. He says the hardest part about the engine replacement was taking out the old Bobcat engine and finding a place to dispose of it.
A couple of items to consider… You could do a remote oil drain line like in a I/O boat? Fuel filter changes and the interference with the engine and exhaust mounts? Are there side inspection plates behind the rear tires that can be pulled off to get to the side the engine?
Thanks for the shop time Mustie1! Awesome progress on the Bobcat, looks like that engine should fit in with some modifications. Look forward to the next episode.
The impossible takes a little longer, I put the same motor in my terramite tractor, I did have to stretch frame 4” to get radiator in, awesome tractor now,plenty of power now, good luck with your build
The motor mount on that engine needs to be solid to the frame, the pump is solid to the frame. If you use rubber mount on the engine will vibrate under torque and brake some where on the other end. I build a drag car had solid mount on the engine and rubber mount on the trans and I cracked the bell housing and rear trans mount. After I made it all solid to frame I had no more problems. I noticed the mount that was on that machine was also a solid mount, I also have a Bobcat 1989 643B gas 4cyl Mitsubishi engine great machine good luck, nice job.
Mustie with the 5 inches in the back door bolt a 4 inch 3/8 flat bar on the back across the floor and mount the bottom of the radiator to it and a piece or rectangle at the top doesn't matter if it overhangs at the back as when the door is shut it is still inside the skid steer and the drive plate have someone just re drill the plate to suite the new flywheel love the skid steer ghetto build cheers from down under
The temperature gauge is a bourdon tube temperature gauge. The line and bulb has liquid that expands as it heats up and works the gauge. I look forward to the solution of the engine. Looks like fun.
Hello sir Just have to say I love your Videos. They remind me of when I was a kid hanging out next door Working on a 55 Thunderbird and all the other cars and trucks I brought over there. I've turned quite a few people on to your videos. You are definitely an inspiration. Thank you sir for being as detailed and as knowledgeable as you are Keep them common we sure do enjoy them. It's me TNT from Mi...🇺🇸💪
If the old base plate fits in the skid steer, I suggest cutting all the old angles and brackets off and bolting some 3/8 flat stock feet onto the diesel, sitting and shimming the assembly into the machine and tack welding the new mounts to the base plate.
This is the follow up project I was expecting. This engine will be a better choice than the original gas. Just take your time, one thing after another. As many mods you had done before, I'm sure you will succeed. One note, the flange at rear must be well centered as it would vibrate . Nice work .
I think i saw 700+ hours on the meter for the mower? If so, that 25hl kubota engine is only nicely broken in. Assuming it was taken care of with decent oil changes, it’s got thousands of hours left on it! Cheers.
Ah yes, the safety factor of seven. Famously used in all sorts of very reputable vehicles! Honestly brilliant work, engine swaps are fascinating especially when it's such an odd lateral move between them on a semi-exotic vehicle. Nicely done.
temp gauge sender is capillary tube with temp bulb on the end--- directly connected to gauge--- advantage is it requires no voltage-- bi- metallic sender thing-- just transmits temp thru the tube
Hello Mustie: It looks like you have the usual scenario for a, " just a quick engine swap". The actual engine block may be a match but nothing else is. I know you will get it done if you want tp. You are Mustie and accept huge challenges. Return on investment for the function of the skidstear, might be better if you just finish rebuilding the engine you have the rebuild kit for. The usable toeque output from the smaller diesel will exceed the original gas engine. No matter, this viewer is going to enjoy whatching the progress and give you kudos when you finish the project. Keep the videos coming.
Erin maybe remake the coupler to be more accommodating to the new motor possibly. And keep the motor mounts you have for the isolators to keep the engine from getting a beating and mount the back of the engine as you said from the base plate and use hockey pucks as isolators for those. You might be able to get the depth you need to make room for the radiator and possibly a cooler for the hydraulics as well. These are just thoughts or suggestions if you will. Great channel love watching.
That engine temperature gauge uses alcohol. As the temperature rises the alcohol expands back into the pressure gauge that has been calibrated to show the engine coolant temperature. Either in degrees Celsius, Fahrenheit, or just hot & cold - however the gauge face is set to.
I hope it fits nicely... watching from Kuala Lumpur Malaysia..been following your channel since 2016...I guess ..love to see you working on things... giving it a new life..👍👍
Hey Mustie. You might want to check the rotational direction of you engines. I have a feeling that new motor needs turned 180 degrees. That some that is very crucial to determin before you modify your coupler. I don't think the hydraulic pump will work in reverse if it's wrong.
That line to the temp gauge is called a capillary tube. Alcohol in the bulb at the engine end expands with heat causing the gauge needle to turn. A useful piece of kit on a hand start engine when there is no battery to power an electric gauge. It can also be used in the cooling air flow on an air cooled engine. Cut or break the tube its junk!
My '79 used a rag joint in the steering. It failed. I had no idea what the thing was called at that time. The "major" auto parts places didn't either so I couldn't even order the thing. Went to the old school place, Allied Auto and they had it hanging on a rack. 1st place I went to from then on to get parts and such.
Make some new supports standoff mounts welded into the engine bay for the new motors existing engine mounts which look in reasonable condition , I'd bolt new standoffs to the existing engine mounts, slide the new motor into the engine bay then tack them into place after sorting out that drive coupling, great work as always🎉🎉🎉🎉
You've lost help for a while. The rotator cuff gets repaired Tuesday. The worst part of the video was the draining of the coolant, that sound just triggers the bladder. Thanks for another great Sunday morning. Narragansett Bay
Hi. This Kubota engine has also been used for a marine version (originally Universal and now Beta Marine). They must have forward and rear brackets that fit the block and a set of rubber engine mounts. A piece of cake for someone with your welding skills! And you are right; the front belt would spin the water pump and the alternator. Can't wait for the next instalment!
The door has some holes... you can continue with the holes all the way down and put an electric radiator on the door...if you don't have enough room cut the door and weld some metal around and make the engine compartment a bit longer...or make the door deeper..(build a new door with grill)and you can use a good size radiator... don't put the radiator on top...all the heat from the engine it's going through... and you will don't have a good cooling..
I worked for a municipal parks department, and we ran groundsmasters for years. Depending on the age of the machine, Toro used engines from Renault and Mitsubishi as well as your kabota. They were always work horses.
Just a thought, how about an engine cradle that also carries the radiator out back with the back door pinned, not hinged, for removal. The back door would need more cooling vents and could be extended for more clearance if needed.
Cut and fit the mower’s front mount to work in the skid steer. The mount at the pto end is pretty straightforward. Use the mower’s insulator mounts. Make the mounts a tiny bit short to allow simple flat washer shimming to get the pto alignment perfect.
Hey bud. My names Rob. I actually work on bobcats. The best way to get the machine clean especially since the engine is out is to go get any type of purple degreaser. Either zep or Castro. put it in a weed sprayer. Don’t dilute it. Use it straight and spray down the whole engine compartment. Do it dry. Then power wash it from the bottom up. It should get off a lot of the grease and soot. Also lift the cab up and spray down all of that as well at the same time. This way you can get a better look at all of the wiring and any flexible hydraulic lines that are accessible now. If you can do it with the machine has a little tilt backwards so all the water can run out of the back of the machine that is better. Just a word of caution. Now, if you’re going to lift the cab up and the bucket is not on the machine, make sure you put a jackstand on the back of the machine because it could possibly flip head over heels. I hope this helps and I enjoy the show very much.
Great tips
Lo
Looks like that will work
We're not going for Concours d'Elegance at Pebble Beach with this machine.
That dawn platinum power wash works really good to give it a try?
The moment he went to pick the engine out of the mower and hooks a bungee strap the the engine 😮😅. And next shot shows a chain. Priceless!!
That made me laugh 😂 Subtle humor for those of us that caught it
I almost had a heart attack when that someone who has gotten a concussion from something similar to that I was glad he put the The chain on
It had me too 😂😂😂
I wonder if the bungee strap was to measure the chain length.
@@Knirin that’s a great assumption. Very possible. But I still like to think it was just humor😂
“Let’s keep it, might be useful for something else in the future”
I suspect that may be Mustie’s epitaph.
Like there was any chance he was going to get rid of any obtainium. For the situations he finds himself in, everything has potential to save a project. 🤠
You could remove the flywheel and re-drill and tap it to accept the input shaft from the original motor, as for the engine mounts, bolt on the original mounts from the mower, and weld on spacers to locate it in the floor of the skid-steer, that way it'll have all the rubbers to take out the vibrations from the motor, and any torque twist, plumbing in the rad/water cooling should be no problem for a man with your renowned fabrication skills, it could even be mounted in the door, with an electric fan to cool it, Again another great video, that gets my own mind searching for solutions to the problems, just what a 67 year old retiree needs to keep his mind active. thank you again for the entertainment
Or even a 75 years old man
Yeah that's kinda what he said
If you mount the radiator in the door, how are you going to open and close the door, or even hook up lines?
Door mounting the rad was my fist thought as well. Hoses on a decently used machine should stay flexable enough to all a door mount. And if the probe removed from the mainfold was a thermo link, it could be the switch for the electric fsn. Just a thought from a tin whacking motor head.
@@twinkie27271 The hoses are rubber, if you use those " flexible" ribbed hoses they would give enough "flex" for the door to open and close
With the red and black mounts from the mower, that engine will be easy to mount, no need to build a crazy mount like they had. The hard part is attaching it to the shaft. Everything else should be easy. Love your videos, Darren, keep them coming.
Yeah, just figure out a way of fixing those to the existing base plate after clearing most, if not all the old stuff off of there.
What always gets to me is I get so involved I will respond to your questions or statements aloud when you ask them. Despite being miles away at a different time, I am with you in spirit. These videos take me back to my youth helping my Dad as he taught me about autos and we had time together.
Many of us talk to musty via video, it's great being a part of the fun.
He not only directs the conversation to us but he even assigns us responsibilities. If we don’t holler when thing A gets wedged under thing B, it’s all our fault! 🤠
yeah yeah, I was shouting Rustie use the sword tractor to move the engine into the box and he did
Fab up a two-piece motor mount: one that bolts to the machine's belly pan, and one that bolts to the engine. If you use 2" angle, you can make it so the entire engine slides in and out like a drawer, with two large bolts through the rails to keep it locked in place.
Hi Mustie, My husband Larry says you need a big fan that hooks onto the fly wheel and blows air up to the radiator through a plastic shroud to keep it cool. Otherwise it will overheat. Look on a Bobcat Manual. You will see the blower and the plastic shroud.
I’ve got a 743 Bobcat has a stock diesel motor.
Love your posts. I’ve learned a lot.
thats correct
Hi Mustie. That is going to be great when you figure it out. A Bobcat is a very useful machine. I’m really looking forward to seeing you get it up and running. I never could get used to using the bucket/forks with my feet. You are one of the best fabricators that I’ve ever seen. I know you will get it going. Man, the anticipation is killing me, lol. Awesome video!!! Darren
"It's ridiculously large for its size." 😂 Mustie's Yogi Berra moment! Haha. Great video as always!
Can't wait to see more of this build! Darren's ingenuity, knowledge, and wit never cease to amaze me.
So far so good on the re-engine of the Bobcat. Nothing is ever easy when doing "custom" work. You can do it, we have faith in you.
The larger motor and more horsepower is definitely worth the extra work! Great content.
Yep, just put the reefer diesel in the snowmobile. 😂
@@Greg_Gatsby Probably be the best mpg snowmobile going😉
Still running one of these with gas onan engine from the early eighties. Diesel Iseki ready to slot in now for ease of use. Never faltered, built like a tank, Also use a 45 year old 3 cyl Kubota mini tractor. Never faltered either. Getting toro stuff in the uk is not easy for old spares of course. Thanks for posting.
You are Awesome Mustie, you probably don’t realise just how much enjoyment and knowledge you give to so many people. Some great tips in the comments also. As always thanks for sharing with us all.👍
Ah, my Sunday always start right, 6AM, 2 XL coffees in front of me, and a Mustie 1 video. Makes my day start right ! There is a lot of work needed to get that engine happy in that spot, but it can be done, IMO.
Happy Sunday..
That deck looks strong enough to be converted into a 3point hitch Brush Hog.. Might come in handy at your cabin
Good day Mustie 2 PM in Pretoria South Africa, right on time for a good show! Thanks.
12pm in the uk, and like clockwork a new Mustie video to watch, thank you 🙂
I look forward to this all week.
8:36 "it is ridiculously large for it's size" - Mustie1 quote of the century for the week so far
The captions show it as "It's ridiculously large for its size" and of course has the grammar and/or spelling right, unlike you. 🤦🏼♂ LOL
Sounds like something Yogi Berra would have said. It's pretty funny when you think about it. Too bad @hjerteJerke2175 doesn't seem to have a sense of humor.
@@Hjerte_Verke Autocorrupt and lack of coffee strikes again.
@@blowupbob1 After years of watching, I am not going to start picking a new "quote of the century for the week so far" from every video from here on out, because as you said it was very yogi-ish. Thank you for the entertainment M1
@@noneyabusiness8786 I was referring to Mustie's comment as being like something Yogi would say, and being funny. Now that you mention it, your comment "quote of the century for the week so far" is also very yogi-ish, and funny. Also I was defending you against @hjerteJerk's comment. Laughter is a wonderful thing. If you find something funny, share the wealth with others. It's a lot better than bitching about grammar and/or spelling!
Scary moment, that tension arm 😳 glad you are okay. Be safe brother
Dear Mustie1.
👍👌👏 Congratulations 🎉 for purchasing the big ol' Toro lawnmower tractor. I bet that your skid steer will run great with the bigger Kubota Diesel engine.
Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing.
Best regards luck and health in particular.
Good afternoon all watching from Lincolnshire UK 🇬🇧
Yorkshire here 👍
County Durham here 👍
Surrey!
London
Brisbane
Been looking for this skidsteer rebuild update. Rebuilding old motorcycles as heavy equipment, been my favourite playlist.
Back in the early 70's I knew a guy that worked on Greyhound buses. Their engines slide out on a rail like a tool box drawer. To work on the motor you took out the lock down bolts and slid it out where you could reach everything and pushed it back in when your done.
I wonder why bobcat never did that?
Unfortunately, very few manufacturers build their product so that they can be repaired. :-(
I've watched enough Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics to know that boom lifts are built that way - the engine pivots out of the machine on a tray to get to all of it. Of course it's only really coupled to the rest of the machine by hydraulic hoses as the pump comes with the engine.
What you pulled out at about 47min is called a capillary. On the other end of the line is a pressure gauge with a temperature scale. It's a similar system as used on fridges temperature control and those danfoss thermostats/pressostats.
Common in 'old school' apps.
I prefer them as they eliminate one more piece of wiring, just have to be more conscientious handling them.
As well they read constantly and presumably as or more consistently.
Excellent video Mustie1, a lot work to get the motor connections and the radiator. I agree that the fabrication of the socket to link the hydraulic bob cat pump to the diesel engine will be hard to do.
Since your not planning on a lot work outside in the mud cut a big enough space in the bottom plate so you got lot access to change the oil & the mount that they made just cut the side tabs loose & move them wider to fit the sides the block but remember got keep the crank centerline with the pump ! I wish some times i lived near you as there some projects you do that's hard for you i can do in few minutes but Indiana is a long way to drive from ! I do love all your video's i been watching since 2014/2015 & every Sunday first vid ill watch !
I really like this project, wish I could play in my garage for a living! You have the skills to pay the bills!
I like your project, I would start by measuring the distance from the floor plate to the center of the the input shaft where to coupler goes. Then set the engine on a flat bench, and make your mounts make the center of the center of the crank shaft the same distance as the input coupler, this creates a straight line (coupler to flywheel and front pulley.
Would love to see you get this engine to fit, get a machine shop to do the drive coupling so you don't get any alignment/vibration issues, but the rest you are a master at shoe horning big engine's into small spaces.
The radiator could be mounted on a swing out frame behind the engine for access, you can use a fan on the water pump then too.
Darren, you're 2/3rds of the way there. Remove the angle-iron from the base plate and affix it to the machine, put the coupling on your lathe and mark the diameter for the new bolt pattern on the flywheel. Use the existing mounts for the engine to mount to the base plate, but the rear make up 2 brackets for the sides of the block. The front mount can then have a plate welded to it to mount the rad which will be high enough to clear the door when you close it
The fuel shut off works like the inlet shut off on a carburetor, it needs to see 12V to stay open, that's why the engine wouldn't shut down by the key in the mower, your jump pack on the starter solenoid kept the circuit hot. Safety feature like Westinghouse air brakes. If you put new liners and piston rings into the engine that was in there, you could save yourself some work, but the bigger engine will make things faster and more fun. God bless! 🙂
That little engine seems way too small for a bobcat of this size. The one from the mower at least looks like it's the right scale!
There's always 12V at the starter, no matter wheither it's connected via a jump pack or direct to the battery.
The stop solenoid wiring was disconnected, and the solenoid on these machines defaults back to the run position a few seconds after shut down, so it was never going to kill the engine when the key was turned off.
There is a larger capacitor in the control box that discharges through the stop solenoid when the key is turned off, actuates the solenoid for about 3-5 seconds to kill the engine, then once the capacitor has fully discharged the return spring in the solenoid returns it to the run position ready for next start👍
There's also a manual shut down lever on the side of the the injector pump, but I guess Mustie hasn't found that yet🤣
The engine from the toro is a Mitsubishi K3D. 21hp diesel. Good motor, easy to add auxiliary hydraulic pump to. Has provisions for it. Same motor in the Mitsubishi tractor.
Believe the variant in the Toro is 24.99hp
Perfect timing just getting over the flu and waiting on snow here too. Thanks for the video bud !!!
If there is an "Old Skool" mechanic, "Mustie" is his name. Always a joy to watch!
“That ain’t going no where!” Sits right up there with “If at first you don’t succeed so much for skydiving!”
I have seen them put the radiator in the rear door, and just create a Vent out the back with an electric fan.A lot better idea going to that little bit bigger motor! All looking really good glad the motor sounds good.
All the best from Canada
The larger engine will be better for counterweight to the bucket. 48:11 That's a great tip- using a bungee cord for a lift alignment tool! Thanks!
I have a similar project at the moment, a bobcat 853 with the isuzu diesel. Traded for it with the engine already pulled and needing a rebuild. I've cleaned it, and that's about as far as I've gotten. You have given me motivation to start back on it with your videos. Thank you.
Mustie needs to be nicknamed The Mailman. He always delivers!
I thought it was because he's sleeping with my mom.....😢 😂 lol jk.
No. My Mailman is 70% successful delivery rate. Muskie1 is 99.5%. I’m still waiting on a Christmas package. It has been in Detroit for 45 days.
@@haneyoakie14 That isn't the fault of the mailman, that is the sorting facility. The Detroit one appears to be backed up, understaffed, and slow among other things.
@@noneyabusiness8786 the mail doesn’t deliver as well as Darren does.
@haneyoakie14 If it still shows in Detroitistan, then it's already been opened and in use by someone there...
That was a good mower. Ran one for a few years at a school district. They still use them today. And there is a switch to shut the fuel off and the dash board, the key does not shut off the motor.
heart transplants are never easy. You're taking on a big job..... fun to watch
Yeah! Finally some more diesel stuff. :) Btw: Isuzu turbos bolt on more or less for 10% more power.. nice sturdy cradle for it, and it will live a long and happy life. Do two brushless electric fans. Stock muffler might work..? Great project.
Since you have the engine out, Mustie, why not cut out a big access panel in the floor. I have a CAT 299, and it is really next to impossible to get the dirt out of the engine compartment. A big access panel, like an excavator has would be a big improvement, I think. By the way, the bungie cord when you pulled the engine out, was great!
This tube for the cooling temperature feeler.
I think it's the same on my old massey ferguson traktor, it's metall tube filed with alcohol.
It's expanding and contacting with temperature.
I've seen videos of people replacing their old broken engine with engines they've bought from old RV's at their local junk yard. The generator engines tend to have very little use as most people use the mains power hook up when they've been "Camping" . The Cummins 4bt or the 3 cylinder yanmar engines with a their small turbos kick out plenty enough Horse's for pretty much any skid steer or excavator, their dirt cheap for wot your getting as long as you don't tell the junk man wot you want it for as the price aways seems to go up. You can even use the same fuel p pumps as their run very similar in excavating equipment as they do set up as a generator either tick over or full rev's . Just in case anyone is looking for an engine. Alot of the time you can find the hole RV on market place with the diesel genset for £500 and talk them down then sell any good part of the RV and in doing so ya get the diesel engine your after for free .
We're all geared up for this one, wanting to see the bigger engine go in, sure hope it's next weeks video!🛠
Glad to see the skid steer come back.
Like to see the. Econoline and double. Cab worked on plus updates on shop
Hey mustie1 back in the early 2000s I worked for a golf course and I operated an identical machine . That machine at least at the course I worked at was used for mowing the ruff when I first started at the golf course I had to help remove and replace the engine on that machine which we had 4 of them all in need of serious servicing. I will say the best way to remove and replace the engine is to use that fan jackshaft as you pick point .
My neighbor in NH went out and purchased the largest horizontal drive Predator engine he could and somehow made/modified a coupler for the pump. He bops around in that thing everytime it snows cleaning people's driveways. He says the hardest part about the engine replacement was taking out the old Bobcat engine and finding a place to dispose of it.
A couple of items to consider…
You could do a remote oil drain line like in a I/O boat?
Fuel filter changes and the interference with the engine and exhaust mounts?
Are there side inspection plates behind the rear tires that can be pulled off to get to the side the engine?
Thanks for the shop time Mustie1! Awesome progress on the Bobcat, looks like that engine should fit in with some modifications. Look forward to the next episode.
I'll tell you what, a shaft driven 72" mower deck could come in handy SOMEWHERE along the line in your ideas of things to do.. that's a sweet deck!!
The impossible takes a little longer, I put the same motor in my terramite tractor, I did have to stretch frame 4” to get radiator in, awesome tractor now,plenty of power now, good luck with your build
I'm wondering if that Toro motor is going to work in that Bobcat but "that's getting ahead of ourselves". Just another Great Mustie 1 Vid! Thanks!
Very cool brother....it's awesome that you show up every Sunday and never disappoint 😊 thanks for that.
The motor mount on that engine needs to be solid to the frame, the pump is solid to the frame. If you use rubber mount on the engine will vibrate under torque and brake some where on the other end. I build a drag car had solid mount on the engine and rubber mount on the trans and I cracked the bell housing and rear trans mount. After I made it all solid to frame I had no more problems. I noticed the mount that was on that machine was also a solid mount, I also have a Bobcat 1989 643B gas 4cyl Mitsubishi engine great machine good luck, nice job.
Mustie with the 5 inches in the back door bolt a 4 inch 3/8 flat bar on the back across the floor and mount the bottom of the radiator to it and a piece or rectangle at the top doesn't matter if it overhangs at the back as when the door is shut it is still inside the skid steer and the drive plate have someone just re drill the plate to suite the new flywheel love the skid steer ghetto build cheers from down under
The temperature gauge is a bourdon tube temperature gauge. The line and bulb has liquid that expands as it heats up and works the gauge. I look forward to the solution of the engine. Looks like fun.
Thanks Mr. Mustie! Another good one! Looking forward to more on this project!
I think mounting the coupler will be the only true hurdle.
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Hello sir Just have to say I love your Videos.
They remind me of when I was a kid hanging out next door Working on a 55 Thunderbird and all the other cars and trucks I brought over there. I've turned quite a few people on to your videos. You are definitely an inspiration.
Thank you sir for being as detailed and as knowledgeable as you are Keep them common we sure do enjoy them. It's me TNT from Mi...🇺🇸💪
1Hey Musie! Your videos were the first I watched after I got sober. Built up my self-confidence to fix my own stuff. Thanks
Great video Mustie looking forward to seeing the next video on this Skid steer 👍
That probe line that was in the water neck is a machanical thermo temperature sensor it works by utilizing a special gas that expands when heated 😊
If the old base plate fits in the skid steer, I suggest cutting all the old angles and brackets off and bolting some 3/8 flat stock feet onto the diesel, sitting and shimming the assembly into the machine and tack welding the new mounts to the base plate.
One thing about Mustie's videos it that they are always interesting and entertaining! Thanks Mustie!!!
Excellent 12.15pm [Scotland] been looking forward to this GREAT
This is the follow up project I was expecting.
This engine will be a better choice than the original gas.
Just take your time, one thing after another. As many mods you had done before, I'm sure you will succeed.
One note, the flange at rear must be well centered as it would vibrate .
Nice work .
I think i saw 700+ hours on the meter for the mower? If so, that 25hl kubota engine is only nicely broken in. Assuming it was taken care of with decent oil changes, it’s got thousands of hours left on it! Cheers.
Congratulations you jobs Nice Bobcat good show 👍👍👏👏👏
Ah yes, the safety factor of seven. Famously used in all sorts of very reputable vehicles!
Honestly brilliant work, engine swaps are fascinating especially when it's such an odd lateral move between them on a semi-exotic vehicle. Nicely done.
temp gauge sender is capillary tube with temp bulb on the end--- directly connected to gauge--- advantage is it requires no voltage-- bi- metallic sender thing-- just transmits temp thru the tube
Hello Mustie: It looks like you have the usual scenario for a, " just a quick engine swap". The actual engine block may be a match but nothing else is. I know you will get it done if you want tp. You are Mustie and accept huge challenges.
Return on investment for the function of the skidstear, might be better if you just finish rebuilding the engine you have the rebuild kit for. The usable toeque output from the smaller diesel will exceed the original gas engine. No matter, this viewer is going to enjoy whatching the progress and give you kudos when you finish the project. Keep the videos coming.
Erin maybe remake the coupler to be more accommodating to the new motor possibly. And keep the motor mounts you have for the isolators to keep the engine from getting a beating and mount the back of the engine as you said from the base plate and use hockey pucks as isolators for those. You might be able to get the depth you need to make room for the radiator and possibly a cooler for the hydraulics as well.
These are just thoughts or suggestions if you will. Great channel love watching.
Those old Toro Groundsmasters are indestructible. Not sure I'd ever want to sacrifice one for the power plant, they're really good mowers
That engine temperature gauge uses alcohol. As the temperature rises the alcohol expands back into the pressure gauge that has been calibrated to show the engine coolant temperature. Either in degrees Celsius, Fahrenheit, or just hot & cold - however the gauge face is set to.
I hope it fits nicely... watching from Kuala Lumpur Malaysia..been following your channel since 2016...I guess ..love to see you working on things... giving it a new life..👍👍
Finally, the skid steer series. I've been patiently waiting for this series to resume. :)
Hey Mustie. You might want to check the rotational direction of you engines. I have a feeling that new motor needs turned 180 degrees. That some that is very crucial to determin before you modify your coupler. I don't think the hydraulic pump will work in reverse if it's wrong.
A Bobcat is a hell of a tool, keep chipping away like you always do and you'll get it done, we know you can. Cheers
That line to the temp gauge is called a capillary tube. Alcohol in the bulb at the engine end expands with heat causing the gauge needle to turn. A useful piece of kit on a hand start engine when there is no battery to power an electric gauge. It can also be used in the cooling air flow on an air cooled engine. Cut or break the tube its junk!
Honestly, I'm over the snowmobile. Can I encourage you to stay on the skid steer until it's finished? Your channel, your choice. :)
The snowmobile is cooler
My '79 used a rag joint in the steering. It failed. I had no idea what the thing was called at that time. The "major" auto parts places didn't either so I couldn't even order the thing. Went to the old school place, Allied Auto and they had it hanging on a rack. 1st place I went to from then on to get parts and such.
Make some new supports standoff mounts welded into the engine bay for the new motors existing engine mounts which look in reasonable condition , I'd bolt new standoffs to the existing engine mounts, slide the new motor into the engine bay then tack them into place after sorting out that drive coupling, great work as always🎉🎉🎉🎉
You've lost help for a while. The rotator cuff gets repaired Tuesday. The worst part of the video was the draining of the coolant, that sound just triggers the bladder. Thanks for another great Sunday morning. Narragansett Bay
Sounds like you had to pump a pint 🤔 😂😂😂😂
The temp sensor is a capillary tube. If you would’ve cut it it’d be junk and require replacement. Old school mechanical gauge and sensor.
lol...an original Mustie-ism, "...it's ridiculously large for its size.". :) you Rock, man.
Hi. This Kubota engine has also been used for a marine version (originally Universal and now Beta Marine). They must have forward and rear brackets that fit the block and a set of rubber engine mounts. A piece of cake for someone with your welding skills! And you are right; the front belt would spin the water pump and the alternator. Can't wait for the next instalment!
Awesome and outstanding as always.Thanks for sharing and taking us along
The door has some holes... you can continue with the holes all the way down and put an electric radiator on the door...if you don't have enough room cut the door and weld some metal around and make the engine compartment a bit longer...or make the door deeper..(build a new door with grill)and you can use a good size radiator... don't put the radiator on top...all the heat from the engine it's going through... and you will don't have a good cooling..
That temperature probe in the thermostat housing has a flexible capillary tube filled with a gas.
I worked for a municipal parks department, and we ran groundsmasters for years. Depending on the age of the machine, Toro used engines from Renault and Mitsubishi as well as your kabota. They were always work horses.
Those kubota 3s and the universal diesels are tanks. They usually will always run unless seriously damaged. Nice find
50:00 the forklift drum-roll was a very dramatic touch!
This should be a walk in the park for someone with your expertise. Basically, “If it fits, it ships”! No problem for Mustie.
Just a thought, how about an engine cradle that also carries the radiator out back with the back door pinned, not hinged, for removal. The back door would need more cooling vents and could be extended for more clearance if needed.
Seems like a worthwhile project. Don't give up without a fight!
Cut and fit the mower’s front mount to work in the skid steer. The mount at the pto end is pretty straightforward. Use the mower’s insulator mounts. Make the mounts a tiny bit short to allow simple flat washer shimming to get the pto alignment perfect.
When you said what can we do with those springs, the first thing that pop in my head was an old trebuchet .