You’re exactly like me! If I say it’s going to take an hour it will take eight. Great job and your tasks continue to impress me and give ideas for my property.
Only thing I would have done differently was to use a TEE in place of the elbow to allow continuing the line to the barn. Water inside the barn during winter is fabulous.
Hi Evan in the future you can heat up the end of that black water line to make it easier to get the barb fitting on then clamp. Makes life a little easier
On the John Deere tractor loader bucket - don't fully extend or roll bucket all the way forward when pushing dirt. You can bend the shafts on the hydraulic cylinders. According the mfg. Love your videos. I had to retire earlier at 64-1/2 due my legs gave out after working on cement for 50 years of my life. I have an acreage that was all woods and underbrush. I have been clearing for the past 6 years. I have been using a Mahindra Max 28xl HST with loader and backhoe, box blade, rotary mower, disk, landscape rake and finish mower. Now 71, I'm almost done. I grew up in Iowa on a farm and now live in Gun Barrel City, Tx.
I have installed many hydrants over the years like this. This is the first time I saw someone use a hard pipe extension to protect the plastic nipple. You are correct it is the weak link in the system. Thanks for this idea. I will always do it this way in the future. I am 60 years old and not to old to learn something new. I do agree with other comments that you should of run it into the barn as well while you were at it. Thanks for sharing.
Good job Evan. It's all coming together. When I was putting in my fence I ran into root problems too. I ended up using a reciprocating saw with an old blade to cut them it seemed to work well for me.
Evan, Great video's! You are correct about that schedule 80 PVC fitting being the weak link. In the future you may want to consider using a brass compression fitting and a stainless insert (Mueller or Ford makes them as well as other manufactures) on the end of your plastic water line for your connections. This will eliminate PVC fittings and the need to push the pipe onto a barb. Cant wait for the next video!
Glad to see you post another video, I've missed them. I know that you had a rough couple of weeks. I have the next smaller size tractor (John Deere 1025R) and let me tell you, the backhoe gets used just about every weekend.
Nice work. I would have put a tee and another valve off the bottom for possible future line to barn though. Even though the floor is concrete, you can still add an inside hydrant with a small amount of cutting. Then just pour more concrete to fill.
30 feet of water line in my area would be a big project! We have boulders/rocks at about 3 feet down, and need to go 6 feet own in our area. If we hit the top of the ridge (we are up on a ridge along the Mississippi River), it needs to be 'jacked'. I put three hydrants in this summer, but had someone else do the digging! I had existing lines of an unusual size so the hardware was a bit challenging! I really envy the ability to borrow a nice tractor like that! 😉
Hay there I have found doing deep wells that so called stainless pipe clamps will rust after a year or so, you have to make sure the whole clamp, band and screw are stainless steel Dave from Canada
For future if you run into small obstacles digging “ie” tree roots use a piece of schedule 40 steel pipe and push it through underneath works really well we use the trick to under footers
Instead of a short hose to fill the troughs, connect them together through the fence using a short length of 2 inch plastic pipe a couple of inches below the top of the troughs and the barnyard one will over flow into the pasture one meaning you only have to fill one trough !
Hey even I noticed you didn't use a drain valve at the bottom of your water hidrant hopefully it will not freeze cause the hidrant needs to drain to prevent it from freezing
Would it work to connect a water hose to the hydrant to run into the barn? Probably have to disconnect every day to store away from the goats. Better than carrying water buckets. Enjoy your videos.
You should have put a T post next to the hydrant pipe and put a couple of pieces of non rot wood between the stand pipe and the T post and use a few hose clamps to tighten the T post and and stand pipe. then the faucet should not move.
Right now, We aren't planning on taking the water line in the barn. But we do have a well we plan on fixing up to provide water to the animals in the future.
the roots shouldnt have been a problem with that backhoe, just have to learn how to curl the bucket to have more brake out power, also, you had a hard time getting the plack 1" polly pipe onto the valve fitting because you didnt heat up the black pipe end 3" back from the end, until the pipe turned a shinny black, then slip the pipe on and tighten down the clamp well the pipe is still hot and soft so it seals it tight to the fitting so it dont leak, one clamp is all that is needed when tightened down well the pipe is soft and hot, it is all most imposible for it not to leak at a kater time with out clamping it hot..
It wasn't a problem with curling the bucket. Some of the roots were 4" to 6" thick and that small backhoe didn't have the power. Thanks for the tip on heating up the black pipe.
dont use the cheap plastic fittings, they are not meant for a lot of presser, use the teflon fittings, they never leak or brake like the cheap plastic ones, you can tell the different between the cheap plastic as they are light gray color, and the good Teflon fittings are more of a dark blue gray color and much heavier and you can used the good stainless steel compression bands not hose clamp that fail and they will not go egg shape like the cheap plastic ones do and leak, your frost line must not be very deep, it dont look like your down any deeper then 18" here in north western Ont. Canada, our frost line is 7 feet deep, so i installed all my barn, feil and house water lines sown 8 feet, and i put water manafolds and valves in my root celler next to my well pipe and presse tank, to feed each line and turn off ones i dont use in winter when installing the black pipe on to the fittings you must heat up 5 inchs of the end of the pipe with a torch or heat gun until the pipe turns really shiny, push it on and clamp it well it is still hot an shinny so it seals tight, as if put on cold it is a fight and will leak over time with change in temp
Another great job done! Enjoyed watching thanks!
Hi.... Thank you for sharing your video homestead 👋 bye 👋 bye 👋 bye 👋 🎥👍👍👍
You’re exactly like me! If I say it’s going to take an hour it will take eight. Great job and your tasks continue to impress me and give ideas for my property.
That's a really handy up grade. Thanks for sharing.
Only thing I would have done differently was to use a TEE in place of the elbow to allow continuing the line to the barn. Water inside the barn during winter is fabulous.
Hi Evan in the future you can heat up the end of that black water line to make it easier to get the barb fitting on then clamp. Makes life a little easier
You homesteaders are some hard workin’ sons a guns. Keep those videos coming
Well I thought it was really easy from my view lol. Nice job Evan.
Great job Evan, let's hear it for the John Deere backhoe. It made light work of that trench digging.
On the John Deere tractor loader bucket - don't fully extend or roll bucket all the way forward when pushing dirt. You can bend the shafts on the hydraulic cylinders. According the mfg. Love your videos.
I had to retire earlier at 64-1/2 due my legs gave out after working on cement for 50 years of my life. I have an acreage that was all woods and underbrush. I have been clearing for the past 6 years. I have been using a Mahindra Max 28xl HST with loader and backhoe, box blade, rotary mower, disk, landscape rake and finish mower. Now 71, I'm almost done. I grew up in Iowa on a farm and now live in Gun Barrel City, Tx.
I used to chop roots also then I discovered the SawsAll. Nice work.
I have installed many hydrants over the years like this. This is the first time I saw someone use a hard pipe extension to protect the plastic nipple. You are correct it is the weak link in the system. Thanks for this idea. I will always do it this way in the future. I am 60 years old and not to old to learn something new. I do agree with other comments that you should of run it into the barn as well while you were at it. Thanks for sharing.
The barn has a concrete floor, that would make it much harder to do.
Country View Acres but not impossible.
It's good to see you on today Evan. Nice job on the water. Sending my love n prayrs to you n Rebecca hope you both are doing ok.
Good job.
Looks good, thanks for sharing with us. It’s coming together for you all !
Nice project. Look forward for more good information. Thanks, Art in CA
Good work, the bucket was a good idea!
Good job Evan. It's all coming together. When I was putting in my fence I ran into root problems too. I ended up using a reciprocating saw with an old blade to cut them it seemed to work well for me.
Evan, Great video's! You are correct about that schedule 80 PVC fitting being the weak link. In the future you may want to consider using a brass compression fitting and a stainless insert (Mueller or Ford makes them as well as other manufactures) on the end of your plastic water line for your connections. This will eliminate PVC fittings and the need to push the pipe onto a barb. Cant wait for the next video!
Great job Evan!!! Well done!!!
Super smart to put a valve for future plans. Great job.
Looks great.
Good job!
Glad to see you post another video, I've missed them. I know that you had a rough couple of weeks.
I have the next smaller size tractor (John Deere 1025R) and let me tell you, the backhoe gets used just about every weekend.
Nice work.
I would have put a tee and another valve off the bottom for possible future line to barn though.
Even though the floor is concrete, you can still add an inside hydrant with a small amount of cutting. Then just pour more concrete to fill.
You just answered my question . Be nice to your Dad and keep using the JD ,when needed
30 feet of water line in my area would be a big project! We have boulders/rocks at about 3 feet down, and need to go 6 feet own in our area. If we hit the top of the ridge (we are up on a ridge along the Mississippi River), it needs to be 'jacked'. I put three hydrants in this summer, but had someone else do the digging! I had existing lines of an unusual size so the hardware was a bit challenging! I really envy the ability to borrow a nice tractor like that! 😉
Honestly...is there anything you do not know how to do? You rock!!
Hay there
I have found doing deep wells that so called stainless pipe clamps will rust after a year or so, you have to make sure the whole clamp, band and screw are stainless steel
Dave from Canada
For future if you run into small obstacles digging “ie” tree roots use a piece of schedule 40 steel pipe and push it through underneath works really well we use the trick to under footers
You are lucky, You get to play with big Tonka toys.
LOL
Good job, saves some houling...
A man of many talents, 👍❤🇨🇦
Good job better then doing it by hand
I would put metal tpost right beside the hydrant to make it more secured
You should always put a gallon jug around the bottom of you hydrant so nothing gets around your weep hole.
Everytime I see the backhoe price. I think, do I need one. Seeing your video. Yes yes I do need one putting in a hydrant come summer.
Hi there Happy wife happy life
Have a good day 😁😁👍👍👍
Be safe god bless
The brass fitting on the galvanized pipe with water running through it will cause electrolysis and it will corrode over time.
Hot water on poly pipe helps fitting you can use poly pipe fittings that don't include barbs and rusted hose clamps that fail
Awesome
Good idea to use rigid steel pipe for your hydrant. MAYBE, the goats won't chew it up.
Instead of a short hose to fill the troughs, connect them together through the fence using a short length of 2 inch plastic pipe a couple of inches below the top of the troughs and the barnyard one will over flow into the pasture one meaning you only have to fill one trough !
Is that your Dad's tractor? A nice tractor.
Hey even I noticed you didn't use a drain valve at the bottom of your water hidrant hopefully it will not freeze cause the hidrant needs to drain to prevent it from freezing
The drain valve is built into the hydrant. There is a vent were the water drain out at the bottom
Would it work to connect a water hose to the hydrant to run into the barn?
Probably have to disconnect every day to store away from the goats. Better than carrying water buckets. Enjoy your videos.
They make a metal Male barb fitting too.
Yeah, but I couldn't find one. Local stores just carry the plastic in 1"
You should have put a T post next to the hydrant pipe and put a couple of pieces of non rot wood between the stand pipe and the T post and use a few hose clamps to tighten the T post and and stand pipe. then the faucet should not move.
Evan, will you eventually take the water supply into the barn. Would be convenient for winter
Right now, We aren't planning on taking the water line in the barn. But we do have a well we plan on fixing up to provide water to the animals in the future.
Always use a heat gun on the plastic pipe. Slides on like butter and really seals it too.
It looks as if you planned well.
Evan that is a nice little tractor . Is that your Dads??
Like the trater
Where is your well pump, or are you on city water?
Everything takes longer then you think. That's what happens when you do things new.
How deep did y'all dig that trench ??
backflow preventer??
the roots shouldnt have been a problem with that backhoe, just have to learn how to curl the bucket to have more brake out power, also, you had a hard time getting the plack 1" polly pipe onto the valve fitting because you didnt heat up the black pipe end 3" back from the end, until the pipe turned a shinny black, then slip the pipe on and tighten down the clamp well the pipe is still hot and soft so it seals it tight to the fitting so it dont leak, one clamp is all that is needed when tightened down well the pipe is soft and hot, it is all most imposible for it not to leak at a kater time with out clamping it hot..
It wasn't a problem with curling the bucket. Some of the roots were 4" to 6" thick and that small backhoe didn't have the power.
Thanks for the tip on heating up the black pipe.
So do you have public water?
Yes, we are on a rural water system.
Just curious where did you get the cast iron lid and ring at. ????
I need two of them.!!!!
I was lucky enough, that the guy that trenched my water line had a couple. He fixes water lines for the water company and had some lying around.
check valve?
dont use the cheap plastic fittings, they are not meant for a lot of presser, use the teflon fittings, they never leak or brake like the cheap plastic ones, you can tell the different between the cheap plastic as they are light gray color, and the good Teflon fittings are more of a dark blue gray color and much heavier and you can used the good stainless steel compression bands not hose clamp that fail and they will not go egg shape like the cheap plastic ones do and leak, your frost line must not be very deep, it dont look like your down any deeper then 18" here in north western Ont. Canada, our frost line is 7 feet deep, so i installed all my barn, feil and house water lines sown 8 feet, and i put water manafolds and valves in my root celler next to my well pipe and presse tank, to feed each line and turn off ones i dont use in winter when installing the black pipe on to the fittings you must heat up 5 inchs of the end of the pipe with a torch or heat gun until the pipe turns really shiny, push it on and clamp it well it is still hot an shinny so it seals tight, as if put on cold it is a fight and will leak over time with change in temp
how do you manage to say the same thing in3 different ways.
Where are your gloves!!!