Nakamichi CR-1A Cassette Deck - Repairs (Ep. 96)
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- Some work for a tired cassette deck to make it usable again.
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I have this very model,CR-1A. Always sounded fantastic with any tape, including metal types. You could refer a very high S/N ratio on those without the Dolby even. Nice. It Also stayed aligned, was easy to clean, etc. the buttons were very nice even and the mechanical “thunk” of the mechanism was satisfying. Alas I still have it but the transport won’t t move tape. Likely just a belt…now I am inspired to open it up and see..
Thanks for these informative and strangely relaxing videos.
Thanks for posting! You granted a longer life for this unit with a little tune-up. The internals appeared to be in great shape.
Thanks, I noticed people are showing more interest in getting & using a cassette decks. If y'all want to see more cassette machines repair videos, let me know and I'll get fixin'
Nice to see what my CR-1A looks like on the inside. Also nice to know it's repairable if anything goes wrong. Thanks. :o)
Re: the motor speed adjustment
It'd be handy if there were a geared screwdriver you could use to make that adjustment, that would use a gear ratio to make very fine adjustments easier. Or maybe use little pulleys and an o-ring belt, so that the belt would slip and limit torque applied to the adjustment screw.
Congratulations on more than 1000 subscribers and great video!
Thanks Mike 😁
Doesn't matter so much where it was built but rather where it was designed. This deck was designed and engineered in Japan.
The Nakamichi SR series receivers were built in Japan but the receivers that replaced them, the TA series, were built in Malaysia. The SR's are more reliable, and sound sweeter to many Nak nerds.
Hi Trevor, amazing work and really great video(s)! I've currently been stuck diagnosing my CR-1A- right now as it stands, it powers on, and it defaults to having both the stop button on and the record button on (stays lit, does not respond to being pressed, cycling it does not change anything). It does not seem to respond to the Play button, but when I use FF/RW, those light up, but nothing turns mechanically, nor makes any sound like it is trying to. I've been following your video getting inside and slowly taking a peek at any issues I can see. So far it looks like the belts and gears are in good condition. Currently have it all apart and slowly playing the process of elimination, but do you have any first ideas on the Record always on issue, and/or just no response from it mechanically? I bought the unit used from a loving home, but where it seems to have sat idle for a long time. It worked when I left, and when I got home and plugged it in, this issue began! Man I wish you were closer, I'd love to bring this by! Thank you again for the great videos, keep up the good work, sorry for the long winded note!
Trevor, is it bad to inhale any of that deoxit stuff in enclosed spaces?
Trevor, just got my 30 year old CR-1A out of the box after not using it for 25 years. It powered up fine but just hums faintly for a few seconds when I try to play/rewind/fast forward a tape. Did the motor go bad? If so, roughly how much would it cost to repair?
Thanks so much!!
Most likely the belt has perished
Everything I've read says that Naks don't often survive long periods of not being used.
I had the same one and it ended up having a bad selector motor
Hi Cory, The CR-1A appears to have the same internals as the CR-2A which I did a repair on. That 2A had a weak motor as well. Seems to be a common weak point for these Nakamichi decks
Could you please bore me with the details on a calibration procedure.... I'd love to learn how to do this.
Generally, tape deck calibrations are specific to a alignment tape. Most manufactures have their own alignment tapes produced for their products and are distributed to factory service centers. They are not cheap or easy to obtain nor are they all created equal.
This creates a problem for independent service shops
@@TrevorsBench however the tools and the methodology is the same. Whether it's 200nWb or 250nWb... Or 160nWb... The testing method is the same.
It would be no different than changing calipers between a Kia Forte or Chevy Cobalt. What's the difference really in the end? Torque specs.
Spark plugs? 10.8 to 18ft.lbs on a Kia... Chevy? 13ft.lbs.
They both are 18mm (3/8). Now you can tighten them with a ratchet... But it's better with a torque wrench.
Here are the steps.. whether this or that.. here are the steps.(the quick and easy version).... It took me a week to dial in the EQ/bias for one of my decks that I sold. I had a speed test tape and a 400hz tone.. and figured it out... But I feel it could have gone quicker... The software version of the T100 Nak analyzer helped somewhat but .. yano..im missing a few steps.
Does anyone know of someone in Albuquerque who can tune mine up?
Switched over to Zorrick 88 much cheaper than other guys and works pretty good.
I did a belt change and the tape speed is way to fast.
Have a look at the motor pulley and check to see if the belt is riding up on the pulley lip. The belt should ride down in the groove
Hello, I have a CR-1A, always worked fine, but today, I placed a cassette in the unit, closed the 'door', and the 'play & pause' stayed lit , with no ability to function, and the 'door' will NOT open-no matter what I do. I previously used it, and nothing was amiss when I turned off the deck. I'm at a loss to what to do about this-any suggestions ?
Hi Max. Sounds like the classic dead loading motor that plagues these decks. If you watch my video on the Nakamichi CR-2A it covers this.
For right now, try power cycling the deck to see if the motor will wake up enough so you can get your cassette out. If not, you'll need to remove the bottom cover and manipulate the cam gear manually
@@TrevorsBench Thanks so much Trevor, I'll be checking out your suggestions asap !